I bought a new from rockauto with my car as a search engine and got a 100kohm at home. Car had error codes about the sensor, but since it was new i dat didn't look at that issue. After a few days i started to think back to this sensor and took the one from another 350 engine i have laying around. This one gave 3,892kohm ( just like you said ). Plugged it in and all error codes where gone. Thanks for the extra info of GM stuff
My sons new to him 1998 Camaro SS has the dreaded knock sensor of doom or in this case PITA code P0327. Not looking forward to getting the intake out of a 4th gen camaro lol but armed with the knowledge of your video I think we can effectively troubleshoot this thing quickly and easily. Hopefully there will be a smoking gun. As you probably know driving around with that code stuck on severely limits power available.
Yes it a good idea to check them out because im having problems with them som time it comes on and y delete the light of and it doesn't com back so it not easy to check them im confused in my car im having the same problem so y thing that computer is like me some time im ok and some other time am loco
good video. I have a 2002 chevrolet Silverado and p0327 code pops up. replaced the knock sensor new and it still shows the code. sometimes it goes from the red light to the yellow light on the scanner. any ideas why I have this problem? thanks
I also have a silverado. Common problem with the knock sensors are actually the harness. $50 from Rock Auto with two new sensors. You could also try relocating the knock sensor to the back of the head.
Super informative, thank you. In a 1990 SBC a knock sensor is located in a drain plug just above the oil pan, after removal and reinstallation I got pinging under load and a "service engine soon" light with code 43. It needed substantial torque to remove, so I suspect it damaged the sensor internally.
Very interesting. If you ever get a chance, you can buy meter leads that have various clips, ends, and connectors. It's cheap and makes jobs like this super easy. Lead connections on volt meters are generally universal, so a good test lead kit should fit. I have two meters and my kit fit both of them. It's one of those things once you've had it, you can't do without it.
I installed new Dorman. Bought AC delco and Napa sensors. All six sensors do not pass the voltage test. What are the chances? Something can't be right here.
How informative....great video man! I just spent an hour digging out my intake manifold and cutting my hands on the cowl of my beloved Camaro SS and want to make sure these GM detonators are working right, now no guessing anymore👍
@@g00dl00kinb0i haha..i feel exactly the same way..my dream car has always been the corvette..and yup on those u dont have to worry about the cowl getting in the way..well except on the zr1 that cowl does block some supercharger bolts
lol, I guess that's why it has 755hp, controlling such output will make you forget the pains of the repairs every time. Btw, thanks for the tips here I've used my meter to check my GM sensors out as they came loose in an Amazon box and now I know they're working👍
Hey bro What kind of Tester are you using/ recommended. I've had to change these knock sensors now for the 4th time on my 2004 chevy Tahoe. 1st three times was with O'Reilly's parts, that were not put in at proper Torque specs, 4th time I got the parts from the dealer and torqued everything to specs after watching a video on install. Worked great for about 3 hours then threw the code again for both sensors. I remembered that when I purchased them, the fricken nimrod at Chevy threw the sensors on the concrete counter when I was purchasing them. Lots of bright people out there. If I would have known about your video I coulda saved so much time and money. Thank you for video! but yeah what type of reader are you using. I'm not super good with electronics. voltameter? multimeter? I am good with speakers and audio wiring but not vehicle lol!
Hello i had no code before replacing the knock sensors i replaced the just cause i was already replacing all the gaskets around the area so now i have a code u have any idea y
Well, I actually got 2 defective sensors....after days of checking my wiring for resistance, continuity and correct voltage I must say that detonators coming loose in a box are definitely a no-go. Both got good resistance 99.x ohms but both won't produce any voltage with vibration, what a waste of time and effort that was.
They're the same brand you have in this video but they got shipped in a box rattling around loose in there. Both got resistance but don't produce voltage. I just got 2 more in a soft bubble envelope today, I'm gonna test again if they work I'll just send the last 2 back.
@@g00dl00kinb0i im in the same boat. Bought 2 new ac delcos off amazon, and the dipshits shipped them loose inside a paper envelope. Both are fucked, truck runs worse than it did with the originals in it lmao. So tomorrow, i gotta go pay advanced auto $200 for theirs and hope thats the last time i pull the intake. Got a 1200 mile trip next week and cant wait on amazon to screw me again
I have a 90 K1500 with a knock sensor less than a year old that failed. I have since bought and returned 3 knock sensors because they failed the resistance test as depicted in this video. 2 of the 3 were ac delco. I have used 2 different multimeters to test them. Any ideas what's going on?
@@backyardchevy328 I keep getting 0 resistance. The Haynes manual gives similar resistance values to what you said. I ordered the delcos thru mail and wonder if the shipping affects them.
@@edbaker7884 i would try testing the resistance on something else like say a spark plug wire just kinda to make sure u get a good resistance value on that..set it at 200k ohms u should get a pretty high reading depending on length of wire and type of wire though but should give u about 12k per foot
Hey BackYard Chevy I have a 2003 Chevrolet Silverado with 4.8 I had a shoo replace both sensors and harness 5 months ago and code came back almost immediately so I keep driving it but I bought another set with new harness from Oreily’s I think it’s Dorman Brand and installed them and drove and got about 20 miles and it came back on again on bank 1&2 what else could I check for that would be causing it to throw po332 & po327 codes my truck runs fine no knocking sound just has less power and uses a lot more gas only gets 10-13 mpg any help would be greatly appreciated
Ive had issues with the dorman brand knock sensors but normally not to the point where theyd come back right away, especially after doing em twice..was the area where they thread into pretty clean as in good contact surface? also be caused by an issue with ur trucks egr or a problem in the cooling system like a faulty thermostat, sludge in system etc.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. Question to you.... Would oil in a 2 pin sensor cause a short, forcing a code? Or, would a faulty pcv valve cause a knock sensor code? I've had 2 codes in the last 2 years. One last Fall (2020), & one a yr earlier. I parked the car at Xmas time after an engine stall event, but the engine ran fine after the event & still runs fine. There doesn't even seem to be a Timing issue.
Engine oils non conductive so it wont cause a short..but it could affect the connectivity of the wire....a faulty pcv valve wouldnt a affect a knock sensor..but if the knock sensor gets moisture and rust on it, it could affect the ground and also damage the knock sensor itself.
@@backyardchevy328 Thanks for the Reply. Appreciated. That's a good point about the oil not allowing a circuit at the connector. So, I just tested both sensors "still in the engine" & 'both' have 6.6 ohms, while neither gives me a voltage with a smack to the head (🙂) 3" away from the sensors. I'm using a $400 Fluke tester, & I'm in a 3.3L V6 in an 08 Hyundai Sonata. One more thing... Both sensor connectors were full of oil because of leaking valve cover gaskets directly above the sensor locations. Do you think the oil could saturate & damage the sensor? Any further thoughts on my situation? Thanks. 👍
Thank you🙂 for resistance? Well good spec is 93-107k but never understoof if that meant 93k-107k or 93-107k which seems to be too big of a margin and most good ones fall near 100k
@@backyardchevy328 Yes, resistance. It's off of a 7.4 vortec and the darn thing has two knock sensors both reading 82k. No check engine light however but the truck is running poor. Swapped out just about everything but those including injectors.
Had the same problem when I changed out ks on a 02 chevy silverado had to get GM sensors for a Canadian built chevy that took care of my problem with codes don't buy aftermarket products for chevy they don't work
Thanks for the vid. Do you think I could hook up a light to my knock sensor. I've got a carburated gen3 ls engine. And I'd set my total ignition timing via a knock sensor light.
Well it wouldnt light up bright enough unless it was really knocking and that would be risky on ur engine...when i did a ls swap with a carb on it i used the msd box and adjusted the curve that way
I suppose I could just wire the multi meter to the sensor harness. And monitor my knock that way. I would rather have a light that gets progressively brighter though
I'm running a 250shot on it. I gotta msd 6010 box with a ignition retard dial as a traction control device. The knock sensor would just be nice to have to know if I'm pushing it a little to hard.
Hey quick question: I tested two different brands of knock sensors. Both sets are giving absolutely no voltage when vibrated and hit. I'm set at 200 AC on multimeter and tested it directly seated In the engine. My multi meter works. I tested it in an outlet. Do you think it's my multimeter or these 2 different brand aftermarkets are just bad? There's no way right?
My guess would be maybe an issue with not getting a good ground signal or the meter is not picking it up fast enough to register what its putting out..have u tried testing em on a bench or something similar just for a quick test
I think that may be it. I'll test it out tomorrow and apply this same concept to everything in the future. Thanks a lot for your hard work in your videos. Keep on wrenchin'.
I recently replaced mine with Delphi sensors I think I messed up putting a doorman harness still getting codes Banc 2 I seen video on how to bypass the wires. and another video revving up to 500 RPMS twice for 3-5 seconds which seems kinda odd that resets the harmonics inside the knock sensors I will check em with the oems meter and go from there What do think could be?
Well the harness as long as its making contact and the wires in good shape it should be fine even if dorman brand..ive had a couple cases where the knock sensor from local auto parts caused code to still remain...i had to use an ac delco and that fixed the problem...did u clear the codes when it was replaced and they still returned?
ive done a few..including silverado's and Camaro etc. and 2 out of 7 times i used aftermarket sensors i had to go back and replace em cause they failed..the ac delcos ive used 4 times since then and so far no problems with em.
@@crackermcwhitey1364 yea..I mean theyre not necessarily bad ive had a few good expeirences..one big benefit to say autozone or O'Reilly's knock sensors u get limited lifetime warranty while ac delcos only have 1 year...but just based on my personal experiences i would prefer to go with oem from now on when it comes to knock sensors
@@backyardchevy328 There is quite a bit of work involved in replacing the knocks sensors on a 02 thru 09 chevy engine due to the need to remove the intake manifold that it just makes sense to use an oem rather than take a chance. I may not be right on the years here but I believe that after 09 the knocks was placed on the heads which was much easier to get to.
Thank you for this video, well done. Also, can't beat the gentle ambiance of birds chirping and the chimes. Watched twice.
Thank you for sharing valuable knowledge :)
Glad to be able to help🙂 thank you for the support
different gm knock sensors have different resistance readings, some are 3900 kilo ohms, some 8900, some 100,000
I bought a new from rockauto with my car as a search engine and got a 100kohm at home.
Car had error codes about the sensor, but since it was new i dat didn't look at that issue.
After a few days i started to think back to this sensor and took the one from another 350 engine i have laying around. This one gave 3,892kohm ( just like you said ). Plugged it in and all error codes where gone. Thanks for the extra info of GM stuff
My sons new to him 1998 Camaro SS has the dreaded knock sensor of doom or in this case PITA code P0327. Not looking forward to getting the intake out of a 4th gen camaro lol but armed with the knowledge of your video I think we can effectively troubleshoot this thing quickly and easily. Hopefully there will be a smoking gun. As you probably know driving around with that code stuck on severely limits power available.
Wait a minute on another video a guy said it has to be 0 or OL when measuring resistance
I am confused now
There are a lot of TH-camrs giving conflicting information regarding this. I'm not sure who to believe either.
Yes it a good idea to check them out because im having problems with them som time it comes on and y delete the light of and it doesn't com back so it not easy to check them im confused in my car im having the same problem so y thing that computer is like me some time im ok and some other time am loco
Well spoken and informative, well done. Thank you.
Thank you🙂
Second time doing my fuckin knock sensor. This time. I’ve already change valley cover. Found oil in the knock sensor well 😑
Excellent work!
Thank you for sharing this and being so thorough.
Thank you🙂
Incredible knowledge, thank you for sharing it! Great video. Even the birds agree!
Subscribed, brother. Thank you for teaching me how to test the knock sensor. I truly appreciate it!
Thank you🙂 i really appreciate it
good video. I have a 2002 chevrolet Silverado and p0327 code pops up. replaced the knock sensor new and it still shows the code. sometimes it goes from the red light to the yellow light on the scanner. any ideas why I have this problem? thanks
Where you able to solve this problem? I replaced them 2 times and it keeps giving the same code.
I also have a silverado. Common problem with the knock sensors are actually the harness. $50 from Rock Auto with two new sensors. You could also try relocating the knock sensor to the back of the head.
Can bad knock sensors cause random ticking sound that comes and goes?
great video on how to properly test a knock sensor
Thank you i really appreciate it🙂
Can you test frm the harnes?
Yes u can, just gotta be careful where u tap
Super informative, thank you. In a 1990 SBC a knock sensor is located in a drain plug just above the oil pan, after removal and reinstallation I got pinging under load and a "service engine soon" light with code 43. It needed substantial torque to remove, so I suspect it damaged the sensor internally.
Very interesting. If you ever get a chance, you can buy meter leads that have various clips, ends, and connectors. It's cheap and makes jobs like this super easy. Lead connections on volt meters are generally universal, so a good test lead kit should fit. I have two meters and my kit fit both of them. It's one of those things once you've had it, you can't do without it.
Very good idea🙂👍 i have some in my old tool box but completely forget about em when it comes to using em
Passed resistance test. Failed the knock
Thank you for the clear, concise video. This is exactly what I was looking for.
Resistance specs can very different ie: auto (3-4K) vs. manual (90-100K).
Really? I thought they were the same part number for auto or manual
Aha there's where i missed 👌🏻
Great video thanks
I installed new Dorman. Bought AC delco and Napa sensors. All six sensors do not pass the voltage test. What are the chances? Something can't be right here.
How informative....great video man!
I just spent an hour digging out my intake manifold and cutting my hands on the cowl of my beloved Camaro SS and want to make sure these GM detonators are working right, now no guessing anymore👍
Thank you🙂 yea doing any work that area sure leaves some reminders lol
Yes but when you succeed it makes driving so much sweeter.
Btw, I call those reminders punishments for not buying the Corvette😉
@@g00dl00kinb0i haha..i feel exactly the same way..my dream car has always been the corvette..and yup on those u dont have to worry about the cowl getting in the way..well except on the zr1 that cowl does block some supercharger bolts
lol, I guess that's why it has 755hp, controlling such output will make you forget the pains of the repairs every time.
Btw, thanks for the tips here I've used my meter to check my GM sensors out as they came loose in an Amazon box and now I know they're working👍
@@g00dl00kinb0i thats great🙂..glad to hear👍
Interested why AC and not DC since vehicles use 12VDC, can you explain
Hey bro What kind of Tester are you using/ recommended. I've had to change these knock sensors now for the 4th time on my 2004 chevy Tahoe. 1st three times was with O'Reilly's parts, that were not put in at proper Torque specs, 4th time I got the parts from the dealer and torqued everything to specs after watching a video on install. Worked great for about 3 hours then threw the code again for both sensors. I remembered that when I purchased them, the fricken nimrod at Chevy threw the sensors on the concrete counter when I was purchasing them. Lots of bright people out there. If I would have known about your video I coulda saved so much time and money. Thank you for video! but yeah what type of reader are you using. I'm not super good with electronics. voltameter? multimeter? I am good with speakers and audio wiring but not vehicle lol!
Thankyou for a thougher and pro version of knock sensor test
Thank you🙂
Hello i had no code before replacing the knock sensors i replaced the just cause i was already replacing all the gaskets around the area so now i have a code u have any idea y
Hiiiiiiiiiiiiii😙😙😙😙
Keep going 😍😍😍😍😍
Hi🙂....thank you
Well, I actually got 2 defective sensors....after days of checking my wiring for resistance, continuity and correct voltage I must say that detonators coming loose in a box are definitely a no-go.
Both got good resistance 99.x ohms but both won't produce any voltage with vibration, what a waste of time and effort that was.
What did u end up doing? What brand were they?
They're the same brand you have in this video but they got shipped in a box rattling around loose in there.
Both got resistance but don't produce voltage.
I just got 2 more in a soft bubble envelope today, I'm gonna test again if they work I'll just send the last 2 back.
@@g00dl00kinb0i hopefully those 2 work out..let me know how it goes...good luck
👍
@@g00dl00kinb0i im in the same boat. Bought 2 new ac delcos off amazon, and the dipshits shipped them loose inside a paper envelope. Both are fucked, truck runs worse than it did with the originals in it lmao. So tomorrow, i gotta go pay advanced auto $200 for theirs and hope thats the last time i pull the intake. Got a 1200 mile trip next week and cant wait on amazon to screw me again
Ir the harness can sustain damage from nonchalant probing of the connectors lol
I have a 90 K1500 with a knock sensor less than a year old that failed. I have since bought and returned 3 knock sensors because they failed the resistance test as depicted in this video. 2 of the 3 were ac delco. I have used 2 different multimeters to test them. Any ideas what's going on?
what resistance are u getting? some vehicles knock sensors do have difference resistance values
@@backyardchevy328 I keep getting 0 resistance. The Haynes manual gives similar resistance values to what you said. I ordered the delcos thru mail and wonder if the shipping affects them.
@@edbaker7884 what setting do u have the meter set to? Is it a self ranging meter or u have to set the dial?
@@backyardchevy328 I've tried it at the 2k and 20k ohm settings, even at the 200 ohm for good measure. Still nothing.
@@edbaker7884 i would try testing the resistance on something else like say a spark plug wire just kinda to make sure u get a good resistance value on that..set it at 200k ohms u should get a pretty high reading depending on length of wire and type of wire though but should give u about 12k per foot
Loved it, u r great making those videos, thanks a lot
NICE. VERY GOOD. THANKS.
i just installed 2 new aftermarket knock sensoers ... one of them is working and one giving sesnore 2 low input circute ...... always buy gunuin parts
Yea, genuine parts always work best...especially since it requires so much work to get to em
Thanks for this. Awesome information.
Hey BackYard Chevy I have a 2003 Chevrolet Silverado with 4.8 I had a shoo replace both sensors and harness 5 months ago and code came back almost immediately so I keep driving it but I bought another set with new harness from Oreily’s I think it’s Dorman Brand and installed them and drove and got about 20 miles and it came back on again on bank 1&2 what else could I check for that would be causing it to throw po332 & po327 codes my truck runs fine no knocking sound just has less power and uses a lot more gas only gets 10-13 mpg any help would be greatly appreciated
Ive had issues with the dorman brand knock sensors but normally not to the point where theyd come back right away, especially after doing em twice..was the area where they thread into pretty clean as in good contact surface? also be caused by an issue with ur trucks egr or a problem in the cooling system like a faulty thermostat, sludge in system etc.
Thanks for the video.
Very helpful.
Question to you....
Would oil in a 2 pin sensor cause a short, forcing a code?
Or, would a faulty pcv valve cause a knock sensor code?
I've had 2 codes in the last 2 years.
One last Fall (2020), & one a yr earlier.
I parked the car at Xmas time after an engine stall event, but the engine ran fine after the event & still runs fine.
There doesn't even seem to be a Timing issue.
Engine oils non conductive so it wont cause a short..but it could affect the connectivity of the wire....a faulty pcv valve wouldnt a affect a knock sensor..but if the knock sensor gets moisture and rust on it, it could affect the ground and also damage the knock sensor itself.
@@backyardchevy328
Thanks for the Reply.
Appreciated.
That's a good point about the oil not allowing a circuit at the connector.
So, I just tested both sensors "still in the engine" & 'both' have 6.6 ohms, while neither gives me a voltage with a smack to the head (🙂) 3" away from the sensors.
I'm using a $400 Fluke tester, & I'm in a 3.3L V6 in an 08 Hyundai Sonata.
One more thing...
Both sensor connectors were full of oil because of leaking valve cover gaskets directly above the sensor locations.
Do you think the oil could saturate & damage the sensor?
Any further thoughts on my situation?
Thanks. 👍
@@waden9815 do u have it on ac voltage? It should be putting out some reading
@@backyardchevy328
You bet.
The meter picks up nothing.
Nothing to ground, & nothing between the 2 pins.
Each sensor has 2 pins.
@@waden9815 yea if its not picking up the tapping producing voltage between terminals then seems to me u got a bad knock sensor
Thank you!!!!
Anytime🙂 thank you for the support🙂
Perfect thanks for uploading
Glad to be able to help🙂 thank you
Great video
Thanks bro
Cool video.
Getting 8.2k should they be replaced? Thanks.
Thank you🙂 for resistance? Well good spec is 93-107k but never understoof if that meant 93k-107k or 93-107k which seems to be too big of a margin and most good ones fall near 100k
@@backyardchevy328 Yes, resistance. It's off of a 7.4 vortec and the darn thing has two knock sensors both reading 82k. No check engine light however but the truck is running poor. Swapped out just about everything but those including injectors.
@@abrahamvenegas2422 have u checked compression to verify internals are fine? And no issue with cams valves etc.?
Informative. Thanks.
Thank you🙂
Awsome
You’re awesome, thank you!
Thank you🙂
Ok so i don't have that tool but if its rusty i replace right?
Yea, u wouldnt wanna reuse em that way anyways with the work thats involved
@@backyardchevy328 alright thank you
Good info on how to test the knock sensor
Thank you🙂
👍👍👍
Good 👍
Thank you🙂
What should I set my meter on
Well there's the test for ac volts and that one youll want to set it at 20v if thats the lowest it has..and for resistance 200k ohms
@@backyardchevy328 thank u very much for your reply
@@jefferygreffin3112 anytime🙂👍
Good information
Thank you🙂
Had the same problem when I changed out ks on a 02 chevy silverado had to get GM sensors for a Canadian built chevy that took care of my problem with codes don't buy aftermarket products for chevy they don't work
Thanks for the vid. Do you think I could hook up a light to my knock sensor. I've got a carburated gen3 ls engine. And I'd set my total ignition timing via a knock sensor light.
Well it wouldnt light up bright enough unless it was really knocking and that would be risky on ur engine...when i did a ls swap with a carb on it i used the msd box and adjusted the curve that way
I suppose I could just wire the multi meter to the sensor harness. And monitor my knock that way. I would rather have a light that gets progressively brighter though
@@billbraski2175 yea, they actually sell a gauge i think its made by caspers electronic to monitor knock...they sell it on ebay too i believe
@@backyardchevy328 swaine thanks
I'm running a 250shot on it. I gotta msd 6010 box with a ignition retard dial as a traction control device. The knock sensor would just be nice to have to know if I'm pushing it a little to hard.
Hey quick question: I tested two different brands of knock sensors. Both sets are giving absolutely no voltage when vibrated and hit. I'm set at 200 AC on multimeter and tested it directly seated In the engine.
My multi meter works. I tested it in an outlet. Do you think it's my multimeter or these 2 different brand aftermarkets are just bad? There's no way right?
My guess would be maybe an issue with not getting a good ground signal or the meter is not picking it up fast enough to register what its putting out..have u tried testing em on a bench or something similar just for a quick test
hmm ground signal? I have it on a vise, and the vise is painted. Does that cause problems? sorry electricity is not my thing, lol
@@SerratedAMG well the knock sensor uses the threaded section to ground itself...so thats why i put the ground lead right against that
I think that may be it. I'll test it out tomorrow and apply this same concept to everything in the future. Thanks a lot for your hard work in your videos.
Keep on wrenchin'.
@@SerratedAMG hopefully it is..good luck🙂👍 thank you
I recently replaced mine with Delphi sensors I think I messed up putting a doorman harness still getting codes
Banc 2
I seen video on how to bypass the wires. and another video revving up to 500 RPMS twice for 3-5 seconds which seems kinda odd that resets the harmonics inside the knock sensors I will check em with the oems meter and go from there
What do think could be?
Well the harness as long as its making contact and the wires in good shape it should be fine even if dorman brand..ive had a couple cases where the knock sensor from local auto parts caused code to still remain...i had to use an ac delco and that fixed the problem...did u clear the codes when it was replaced and they still returned?
@@backyardchevy328 yea I cleared em couple days came back so hmmm
@@backyardchevy328 how many oems should the wires read I believe 1000?
@@leosdreamon681 93-107k ohms
@@leosdreamon681 maybe the area where the knock sensor screws into might be really rusted and giving a bad ground to the knock sensor
no, you misguiding.. OL reading is good sensor...
Incredible demonstration. Liked and sub brother you are a heavy
How you decide whether to use oem or after market parts?
ive done a few..including silverado's and Camaro etc. and 2 out of 7 times i used aftermarket sensors i had to go back and replace em cause they failed..the ac delcos ive used 4 times since then and so far no problems with em.
@@backyardchevy328 So it's an experience thing. It's such a crap shoot on whether someone has come up with a better product than the original.
@@crackermcwhitey1364 yea..I mean theyre not necessarily bad ive had a few good expeirences..one big benefit to say autozone or O'Reilly's knock sensors u get limited lifetime warranty while ac delcos only have 1 year...but just based on my personal experiences i would prefer to go with oem from now on when it comes to knock sensors
@@backyardchevy328 There is quite a bit of work involved in replacing the knocks sensors on a 02 thru 09 chevy engine due to the need to remove the intake manifold that it just makes sense to use an oem rather than take a chance. I may not be right on the years here but I believe that after 09 the knocks was placed on the heads which was much easier to get to.
Do you have to clean the threads ok on the rusted sensor?