Hi. I have different problem on my w124, no AC. It only blows hot air. There is aprox 14v on pins when set temp to minimum, valves are clicking. When to max they are not clicking and no voltage. So electrically is fine. Plungers are not broken, only a bit rounded on the "heads". everything cleaned. Where is the problem?
over engineering POS MB! they make em way worse then this one! If water leaked up into the copper coils, your screwed...they short out after that happens....you really didn't notice, could be rebuilding all in vain. You make it look easy!
Interesting comment. I am facing the dilemma of whether to plunk 80 bucks on this kit and rebuild the unit, or plunk five hunge on a new valve. Since I am seeing lots of contamination which I assumed was messing with the connector, I have to wonder now if it's really messing with the coils. I can rewind a coil while I'm in there I suppose, but man that would be a real pain. Maybe I could get a parts unit with usable coils off fleabay... Side note - one of the reasons the valve is so complicated is because the w140 had dual zones requiring two valves, and a 'rest' feature which would allow you to keep the heat on in the cabin even when the engine was off and the key removed, thus requiring the circulation pump. I could care less about the dual zones, but the 'rest' feature is really nice to have.
My c230 is 20 years old and is just now giving problems with the duovalve at 248,000 miles. That is pretty damned reliable in my book. And, the fact that I can rebuild something that's a throw away item on any other make is a plus.
These Hester control valves are very well built and designed. They hardly fails. Most of these cars are at the youngest are 24 now and most have well above 150,000 miles on them. The only things that fails on these is gaskets. But I’m sorry you think Mercedes is POS. I’d love to know what car you’re driving that has rubber that never degrades with age and heat and cold cycles. Your car must also ride on runner tires that never go flat, develop flat slot, have tread or belt wear and must be not just run flat but completely puncture resisted. You must also never need new radiator brake or fuel line hoses or fan belts etc etc. lucky you! Ass face. Don’t be jealous of those who possess luxuries that you and your feeble mind can not afford. New or old. Thank you.
Hi. I have different problem on my w124, no AC. It only blows hot air. There is aprox 14v on pins when set temp to minimum, valves are clicking. When to max they are not clicking and no voltage. So electrically is fine. Plungers are not broken, only a bit rounded on the "heads". everything cleaned. Where is the problem?
Where I can buy this kit ? thank you
Hello all brothers
Where I can buy this repair kits?
I’m in Hong Kong
Thx so much
At amazon.com
does anybody know where i can buy this kit.
thanks
Как заказать-то?
Get the Kit on eBay
over engineering POS MB! they make em way worse then this one! If water leaked up into the copper coils, your screwed...they short out after that happens....you really didn't notice, could be rebuilding all in vain. You make it look easy!
Interesting comment. I am facing the dilemma of whether to plunk 80 bucks on this kit and rebuild the unit, or plunk five hunge on a new valve. Since I am seeing lots of contamination which I assumed was messing with the connector, I have to wonder now if it's really messing with the coils. I can rewind a coil while I'm in there I suppose, but man that would be a real pain. Maybe I could get a parts unit with usable coils off fleabay... Side note - one of the reasons the valve is so complicated is because the w140 had dual zones requiring two valves, and a 'rest' feature which would allow you to keep the heat on in the cabin even when the engine was off and the key removed, thus requiring the circulation pump. I could care less about the dual zones, but the 'rest' feature is really nice to have.
hugeshows ...try find a good core that didn't leak off fleabay than rebuild that one use spare coils Incase u need em.
My c230 is 20 years old and is just now giving problems with the duovalve at 248,000 miles. That is pretty damned reliable in my book. And, the fact that I can rebuild something that's a throw away item on any other make is a plus.
These Hester control valves are very well built and designed. They hardly fails. Most of these cars are at the youngest are 24 now and most have well above 150,000 miles on them. The only things that fails on these is gaskets. But I’m sorry you think Mercedes is POS. I’d love to know what car you’re driving that has rubber that never degrades with age and heat and cold cycles. Your car must also ride on runner tires that never go flat, develop flat slot, have tread or belt wear and must be not just run flat but completely puncture resisted. You must also never need new radiator brake or fuel line hoses or fan belts etc etc. lucky you! Ass face. Don’t be jealous of those who possess luxuries that you and your feeble mind can not afford. New or old. Thank you.