My practice is to use the second method - harvest from the starter, not the beer. It saves washing and reduces the risk of contamination. I don't generally go past 10 generations, though I've got a culture of Budweiser yeast that I believe started from a Yeast Bay liquid yeast that just keeps on going. It still produces clean pilsener. Great point about the mask in this video; I'm going to do that in future. Really good video introducing a technique that can save you a bundle.
Great content, ive watched part 1 & 2 multiple times and have now "captured" my yeast. My question is i recently brewed an Neipa with an SG of 1.062, i used 2 packets of NZ Froth Vape Liquid yeast. I collected the yeast from the 27L fermzilla trub dumb a few times so i have a couple jars of washed yeast. How do you know how much yeast to use in your next brew? I have a Grainfather G30 so limited batch size. Thanks and love the content
Cheers mate, honestly the repitch is a bit of a gut feel thing for me most of the time. I know there’s calculators online for this, but typically I’ll also be making a starter for my next batch, so as long as I’m using a decent amount of slurry in that starter I know I’m safe. I’d normally do something like 2 to 3 times the slurry weight that I’d normally using with dry packets if I’m making a starter, if I’m just direct pitching the slurry without a starter I just throw a “jar” in, maybe a cups worth I. Kitchen terms? And obvy the older your slurry (as in how long it sat in the fridge) the more you need
@@Archfile375 yeah I suppose it would if you have access to a big UV machine, in the lab you can definitely use UV for sterilising substances, boiling just tends to be more accessible for most people
Thanks for the vid helps a lot just started yeast harvesting myself what day do you dump the trub before the yeast . Also I’ve Just got a 17 gallon ss brewtech does the 2 heat belts keep it at temperature. cheers Mark
Yep 2 heat belts is generally enough. In the middle of winter if you’re making a kviek ipa or something where you need to keep it up around 32 degrees (Celsius) then it helps to whack on 1 or 2 more belts, but for regular ferm temps 2 belts is perfect. As far as the dump, I normally do a trub dump on day 2/3 and then find I collect my healthiest yeast after that - around day 4-6 depending on the fermentation speed. But yeah definitely good to dump a solid amount of trub in the first couple days before yeast collection
I suppose there is always the chance of some level of melanoidin reactions but you arnt boiling it for all that long really so even if there is a touch it will be minimal. I’d think about it as boiling wort for a very short period
If you are always brewing a similar batch of beer or making similar varieties of wine, how important is it to wash the yeast? I ask because the way that t'ej is traditionally made in Ethiopia (and t'ej is an indigenous mead or honey wine) is to use the lees of the last batch of t'ej you make as the yest for the next batch. In fact, traditionally, no yeast was ever pitched as t'ej uses the wild yeasts in the raw honey and in the gesho (buckthorn twigs and leaves) that produce t'ej.
It’s certainly less important if you’re making the same beer batch after batch, often large breweries won’t bother washing but will pull a sample of slurry and use it as their yeast pitch
Hi man. You don't use any nutrients at all in the starter? I'd like to give some advise and don't take it the wrong way BUT when you take the first trub+yeast from the beer the best way to is to put the fresh trub into a large demijohn (around 5 liters), add a lot of clean water and let it sit for: 30 minutes or a little more. This way you remove basically all the useless trub, then proceed like you did. I only tell you this because your channel is great!
Yeah this was covered off in part 1 of the yeast rinsing and curling vids haha, part 2 was just about culturing the yeast but if you flick over to part 1 you’ll see where we take the trub and rinse it
Theoretically yeast can last decades if not hundreds of years. That being said labs that have revived very old yeast have some super sophisticated equipment. So as far as the home brewer goes the best way to know if your yeast is alive is to make another starter, throw your yeast in and see if it kicks back to life. I’ve done this with yeast that has been 1-2 years old without an issue
How are you finding the temperature control on that stirplate? I've got an identical one and ended up switching the controller for a PID because the temperature was wandering all over the place. Switching the controller was one of my earliest videos (th-cam.com/video/DNaLEYclzBk/w-d-xo.html)
Honestly not a bad option, ours is a little old now and the temp prob has gone a bit haywire. I’ve replaced it once and that fixed it but now it’s starting to go all over again. So may be a good idea to do the same as you, thanks for the tip!
My practice is to use the second method - harvest from the starter, not the beer. It saves washing and reduces the risk of contamination. I don't generally go past 10 generations, though I've got a culture of Budweiser yeast that I believe started from a Yeast Bay liquid yeast that just keeps on going. It still produces clean pilsener. Great point about the mask in this video; I'm going to do that in future. Really good video introducing a technique that can save you a bundle.
Yeah absolutely right mate! And the more careful you can be the better, but it’s true past 10 generations things start to get weird
Great content, ive watched part 1 & 2 multiple times and have now "captured" my yeast. My question is i recently brewed an Neipa with an SG of 1.062, i used 2 packets of NZ Froth Vape Liquid yeast. I collected the yeast from the 27L fermzilla trub dumb a few times so i have a couple jars of washed yeast. How do you know how much yeast to use in your next brew? I have a Grainfather G30 so limited batch size.
Thanks and love the content
Cheers mate, honestly the repitch is a bit of a gut feel thing for me most of the time. I know there’s calculators online for this, but typically I’ll also be making a starter for my next batch, so as long as I’m using a decent amount of slurry in that starter I know I’m safe. I’d normally do something like 2 to 3 times the slurry weight that I’d normally using with dry packets if I’m making a starter, if I’m just direct pitching the slurry without a starter I just throw a “jar” in, maybe a cups worth I. Kitchen terms? And obvy the older your slurry (as in how long it sat in the fridge) the more you need
I thought I knew how to harvest yeast until I watched this 😂.....thanks !
Hahaha all g dude! Best part of this hobby is there’s always something new to learn
Would UV light work for sterilizing water for this purpose?
@@Archfile375 yeah I suppose it would if you have access to a big UV machine, in the lab you can definitely use UV for sterilising substances, boiling just tends to be more accessible for most people
Thanks for the vid helps a lot just started yeast harvesting myself what day do you dump the trub before the yeast . Also I’ve Just got a 17 gallon ss brewtech does the 2 heat belts keep it at temperature. cheers Mark
Yep 2 heat belts is generally enough. In the middle of winter if you’re making a kviek ipa or something where you need to keep it up around 32 degrees (Celsius) then it helps to whack on 1 or 2 more belts, but for regular ferm temps 2 belts is perfect.
As far as the dump, I normally do a trub dump on day 2/3 and then find I collect my healthiest yeast after that - around day 4-6 depending on the fermentation speed. But yeah definitely good to dump a solid amount of trub in the first couple days before yeast collection
Thanks for the lessons, little of topic can I follow the same method to grow baker's yeast?
Yeah absolutely mate, this will work for any yeast
@@flyingwombattv much appreciated 🙏🏻
I am curious about boiling the starter. Won't the sugars in the starter solution carmalize when you boil it?
I suppose there is always the chance of some level of melanoidin reactions but you arnt boiling it for all that long really so even if there is a touch it will be minimal. I’d think about it as boiling wort for a very short period
If you are always brewing a similar batch of beer or making similar varieties of wine, how important is it to wash the yeast? I ask because the way that t'ej is traditionally made in Ethiopia (and t'ej is an indigenous mead or honey wine) is to use the lees of the last batch of t'ej you make as the yest for the next batch. In fact, traditionally, no yeast was ever pitched as t'ej uses the wild yeasts in the raw honey and in the gesho (buckthorn twigs and leaves) that produce t'ej.
It’s certainly less important if you’re making the same beer batch after batch, often large breweries won’t bother washing but will pull a sample of slurry and use it as their yeast pitch
Hi man. You don't use any nutrients at all in the starter?
I'd like to give some advise and don't take it the wrong way BUT when you take the first trub+yeast from the beer the best way to is to put the fresh trub into a large demijohn (around 5 liters), add a lot of clean water and let it sit for: 30 minutes or a little more. This way you remove basically all the useless trub, then proceed like you did. I only tell you this because your channel is great!
Yeah this was covered off in part 1 of the yeast rinsing and curling vids haha, part 2 was just about culturing the yeast but if you flick over to part 1 you’ll see where we take the trub and rinse it
How long does the mother last?
Theoretically yeast can last decades if not hundreds of years. That being said labs that have revived very old yeast have some super sophisticated equipment. So as far as the home brewer goes the best way to know if your yeast is alive is to make another starter, throw your yeast in and see if it kicks back to life. I’ve done this with yeast that has been 1-2 years old without an issue
👍👍🤝🤝
Cheers mate
How are you finding the temperature control on that stirplate? I've got an identical one and ended up switching the controller for a PID because the temperature was wandering all over the place. Switching the controller was one of my earliest videos (th-cam.com/video/DNaLEYclzBk/w-d-xo.html)
Honestly not a bad option, ours is a little old now and the temp prob has gone a bit haywire. I’ve replaced it once and that fixed it but now it’s starting to go all over again. So may be a good idea to do the same as you, thanks for the tip!