I went to the X-Tool D7 a year ago because of several positive reviews on TH-cam. If I had it to do over I wouldn't touch X-Tool. It's more of a beta test with sketchy customer support. If I had it to do over I'd take the Launch or Autel knowing what I know now. Being a grumpy old many myself I appreciate your direct honesty.
too far gone to re gap ,it would change the angle of the ground electrode, back in the day when dinosaurs were walking the earth we had spark plug cleaners and reinstalled them every 10k, nice to see plugs last a 100 k , good call Kenny
I have an old 3 Jeep with a 4.7, believe me you put iridium plugs in it. It runs that engine wonderfully. And you can even open up the Gap a little bit and get a bit better spark out of it and those plugs I have seen those plugs last over 200,000 Mi without any appreciable widening of the plug gap. And I have always gotten better fuel mileage by putting the iridium plugs in it. For a while they were making inconel fine wire plugs those work wonderfully as well but they we're a bit on the pricey side
Try Rock Auto . Sometimes there are also manufacturers rebates . The local parts stores are good if you want it NOW and don't mind paying extra . I generally put Iridium in all my vehicles . Kenny mentioned not to use a wedge type gap tool against the Iridium coating because it could damage it .
The plugs are worn out regardless if it fixes the problem or not, but I bet it will. Otherwise they were nice and dry, which is a good sign. Amazing how much you can tell by looking at the plugs. I missed the part where you swapped coils, I need to watch it again, I was falling asleep.
eBay has a scope that shows COP firing line and spark duration. You touch the top of the coil and it shows the scope trace. It can be VERY helpful. It shows one cylinder only. That can quickly diagnose a misfire.
You shouldn't need that if you have a good scanner. Most of the good ones have some basic scope functions built in. For this issue, you would do what's called a power balance test. It shows all cylinders firing in real time. You don't need to go under the hood. 99% the SnapOn scanner he has will have this function.
I bought a 70 Impala for $500 for the engine and transmission for my Camaro. The spark plugs were worn out so bad, the electrode was worn out. It was worn and the gap couldn't be set there was nothing left. The spark had to go sideways.
A spark plug with an excessively large gap will permit the instantaneous voltage to go very high before the gas/air mixture breaks down and forms a spark. The high voltage can cause the insulation on the fine wire of the ignition coil secondary winding to develop interwinding short circuits. This in effect puts a shorted secondary winding on the ignition coil. An ignition scope would detect this but most COP setups make it impossible to probe the high voltage. Or measure the resistance of the secondary with an ohmmeter, compared to a known good coil. Coil resistance may be given in factory manual. I have seen a chainsaw still start with resistance 20 % of correct value but not pull a load.
it hard to get thru to some people their plugs are shot when they will walk by a tire with 10 lbs.of air in it & drive away.then wonder why they need a new tire when the sidewalls are wasted.common sence isnt so common anymore.
Its not what the scanner can do. Its only as good as the person using it. For example, if you are having a drivability issue and don't know what all the information listed in the data stream is, anything you do beyond that, is a guess. A scanner will not tell you what's wrong with a car any more than a set of wrenches can. If you envision using the scan tool like Scotty Kilmer does, where he drives around with the scanner connected and pretends to know what he's looking at, you probably shouldn't get one. However, if your overall diagnostic approach is to bring a DVOM and a test light with you, as well as the scanner, and have the workshop manual and wiring diagrams for the vehicle pulled up on your laptop before you start, then you're probably ready for a scanner. Or, in simpler terms, your diagnosis begins when you put the scan tool down.
Plugs being that far gone would definitely create a combustion knock which could set a knock sensor code, especially with cheaper grade gas and under heavy loads. Change the plugs, clear the codes and run it, see what happens. On some engines changing a knock sensor is a last resort, as some require lot of effort to remove them and unless you go back to OEM sensor, the aftermarket ones are a hit and miss if it's good or not. Buy a OEM knock sensor for a Honda and you'll scream bloody ripoff... freaking ridiculously priced. A knock sensor is something i would NOT replace unless absolutely necessary imo... you could actually make things worse in some cases.
That scanner seems old dog slow I have a TopDon one not sure which one but it $395.00 au & it's really comprehensive & bluetoth as well & I know some people say they forget the dongle this warns you to retreive the dongle.
I have a $300 scanner and it seems the less expensive ones seldom have the data base to explain a remedy for the DTC. Also I shared my P219A DTC with you after asking if would like to take a stab at the issue, no response for some reason. I understand if just not possible to analyze.
That's just a code. By itself, it can't tell you much. What else have you checked? The first number in a DTC usually tells you if the code is OBD2 or manufacturer specific. 0 is usually generic OBD2, while 1, 2, etc..., is typically a manufacturer specific code. But there are exceptions, so you have to check it. The A usually refers to a side of the motor, like bank one and bank two. So, if I had to guess, a powertrain code referring one of the engine banks, is a rich/lean condition (or air/fuel ratio). All this is just a guess on my part because I don't know anything about your vehicle. However, there may be enough info to point you in the right direction. Start with your fuel trims. How do they look? Also, does the freeze frame data tell you if the code is set when the vehicle is running in open or closed loop?
@@AT-wl9yq I apologize I responded last week with specifics about what we have done and seems did not go to you. 2013 Silverado with 5.3. Bought in 2019 w/157K miles. Code I speak of came up in first week. As a preventative measure since used I changed MAF sensor and Air filter and did a service. Truck runs fine. As the years went forward, I have been doing more preventative maintenance. Spark plugs, wires, and intake manifold gasket upgraded to steel from plastic. The stock plastic gasket had a sign of damage on cylinder 7. Now at 208,000 miles and still an air fuel ratio imbalance on bank A. Cylinders 1,3,5,7. Injectors are stock. Wondering if an O-ring is drying out on one or more of them allowing lean or rich situation on one of the cylinders. Hope this makes it clear. Code comes and goes pretty regularly, engine runs smooth and well.
@@TheFrenchPug make sure you're logged into TH-cam. Many times, if it looks like you've been unsubscribed, or notifications turned off you're not logged in. Let me know if I'm thinking correctly.
I have BMWs and fix myself. Spark plugs don't typically blow out. If you know the plug is bad replace it. Then run the the engine. If you still have a misfire on #7, swap the coil with another one and see if that misfire goes to the other cylinder you swapped it with. If it does you have a bad coil. Just replace the coil. Only other thing that would cause a misfire in a cylinder is oil leaking from the valve cover gasket at that point. Is the sparkplug wet? Oily? If so, it's a leaking valve cover gasket.
@emoralis yes it actually shot out of the head I had some one try to tap in but I think tho chose the wrong size because it’s not flush with the engine so the coil don’t fit all the way down
I know your a busy bloke mate but I need info if you can help. I have 09 subi Forester with ej25. 3 sohc . It took a dump so I'm in search of a motor. Online says I can only pull from 09-10 which I think is a lie but I don't speak subi lol. Can I use a dohc in place or grab a dohc and swap heads? If so from which era? What's bad this car I just reworked the heads few months ago with new MLS gaskets and stronger valves with new guides
You're doing it all wrong Kenny. First of all you're supposed to call it a "big fancy scan tool" then talk real fast while waving your arms around and praising your 90's Toyota that burns oil! Scotty Kilmer lol
I'm not sure if your comment on how to tell the difference between bank 1 and bank 2 of an engine is correct. Maybe it is, but I'll have to look into it. I know for certain the correct method for determining which bank is one and two, is to look up the firing order for the vehicle you are working on. Bank 1 is always on the same side of the motor as cylinder number one, as listed in the firing order.
question, what do you think of a Toyota sienna? 2012 CAN GET IT FOR AROUND $9,800.00. believe you don't have much faith in Toyota. need it for my auction hauling vehicle keeps everything enclosed. thanks eagle.
Looking at the odometer I am surprised it has that many miles considering it’s a 4.7 junking engine unless it’s not the original engine that’s 4.7 our a pile of Doodoo just like that 2.7.
Just imagine how much extra gas was wasted on those plugs . And those threads were really rusted . But ......... " the car runs great " , " if it ain't broke , don't fix it " . " I never change oil , until I start using it " . Gee ... oil changes and plugs are real expensive . Engines are CHEAP !
I once made my chevelle with a 283 wind up very high RPM while running quite lean. On a road trip my buddy ( who liked to go very fast ) discovered my junky old car could do 140 mph and proceeded to drive that fast for many miles. When we got home I took the plugs out and discovered the outer electrodes were just a nub.
I paid $5 k for my last Snap On scanner 10 years ago. Todays Snap On $5k scanner isn’t much more then your $400.00 Launch ( Not really) . Like you say the info is much more in the higher price scanners. And for you non-mechanics who rely on the cheaper “ code reader” , you likely don’t know the SnapOn needs a few updates a year , usually about $700/ update. Snap On does have a subscription price tho that supposedly reduces this update cost
I found this channel by accident six months ago. Now I'm addicted. 🤣🤣🤣
Just don't go bananas....
Lots good info K.
And you are right-- tight is tight
I see the problem - there were autolites in there. Chryslers need Champion plugs. 😉
Always heard that too.
It’s very true
I went to the X-Tool D7 a year ago because of several positive reviews on TH-cam. If I had it to do over I wouldn't touch X-Tool. It's more of a beta test with sketchy customer support. If I had it to do over I'd take the Launch or Autel knowing what I know now. Being a grumpy old many myself I appreciate your direct honesty.
You are a TH-cam success! Thank you.
Gotta love getting codes that aren't listed.
too far gone to re gap ,it would change the angle of the ground electrode, back in the day when dinosaurs were walking the earth we had spark plug cleaners and reinstalled them every 10k, nice to see plugs last a 100 k , good call Kenny
Another great diagnostic/troubleshooting video. Also, impressed with the Launch scanner. 👍
What model launch scanner is the one you are using? Does it require a subscription?
I thought it was in the ' starting up mode ' but then I realized that was the name of the machine.
I bought this scanner the minute you recommended it!! Works great and for the price it's perfect for shade tree mechanics!!!
Great video Kenny, very informative! Just an observation you might want to update your launch scanner you have 25 available updates
Yeah, launch is great about updates 👍🏻🤙🏻
I have an old 3 Jeep with a 4.7, believe me you put iridium plugs in it. It runs that engine wonderfully. And you can even open up the Gap a little bit and get a bit better spark out of it and those plugs I have seen those plugs last over 200,000 Mi without any appreciable widening of the plug gap. And I have always gotten better fuel mileage by putting the iridium plugs in it. For a while they were making inconel fine wire plugs those work wonderfully as well but they we're a bit on the pricey side
Try Rock Auto . Sometimes there are also manufacturers rebates . The local parts stores are good if you want it NOW and don't mind paying extra . I generally put Iridium in all my vehicles . Kenny mentioned not to use a wedge type gap tool against the Iridium coating because it could damage it .
200k and no gap difference 😂
@@MidnightPolaris800right?
I got three scanners. One is matco, one is snap on. Then the launch. I use the launch more. I think it is better
Good morning Mr Kenny hope y'all have a great day
Back in the old days we just threw new plugs and points in.
The plugs are worn out regardless if it fixes the problem or not, but I bet it will. Otherwise they were nice and dry, which is a good sign. Amazing how much you can tell by looking at the plugs. I missed the part where you swapped coils, I need to watch it again, I was falling asleep.
Kenny, you are a fine man. God bless you (be born again).
eBay has a scope that shows COP firing line and spark duration. You touch the top of the coil and it shows the scope trace. It can be VERY helpful. It shows one cylinder only. That can quickly diagnose a misfire.
You shouldn't need that if you have a good scanner. Most of the good ones have some basic scope functions built in. For this issue, you would do what's called a power balance test. It shows all cylinders firing in real time. You don't need to go under the hood. 99% the SnapOn scanner he has will have this function.
Auto VIN read is typically on 2007+ vehicles
I bought a 70 Impala for $500 for the engine and transmission for my Camaro. The spark plugs were worn out so bad, the electrode was worn out. It was worn and the gap couldn't be set there was nothing left. The spark had to go sideways.
How long did that engine last?
Thank s!!!
Launch makes great tools. You just have to source a Launch USA scanner over a grey market one.
Amazon
@@mod_incllc3235 Amazon is all grey market. Even with prime
A spark plug with an excessively large gap will permit the instantaneous voltage to go very high before the gas/air mixture breaks down and forms a spark. The high voltage can cause the insulation on the fine wire of the ignition coil secondary winding to develop interwinding short circuits. This in effect puts a shorted secondary winding on the ignition coil. An ignition scope would detect this but most COP setups make it impossible to probe the high voltage. Or measure the resistance of the secondary with an ohmmeter, compared to a known good coil. Coil resistance may be given in factory manual. I have seen a chainsaw still start with resistance 20 % of correct value but not pull a load.
Changed the plugs on my Altima at 120,000 ,iridium plugs only a couple thousands over stock gap
it hard to get thru to some people their plugs are shot when they will walk by a tire with 10 lbs.of air in it & drive away.then wonder why they need a new tire when the sidewalls are wasted.common sence isnt so common anymore.
apparently neither is the ability to spell
WRENCHING WITH KENNY WHAT PART NUMBER IS THE LAUNCH SCANNER AND WHAT ALL WILL IT DO
Its not what the scanner can do. Its only as good as the person using it. For example, if you are having a drivability issue and don't know what all the information listed in the data stream is, anything you do beyond that, is a guess. A scanner will not tell you what's wrong with a car any more than a set of wrenches can.
If you envision using the scan tool like Scotty Kilmer does, where he drives around with the scanner connected and pretends to know what he's looking at, you probably shouldn't get one. However, if your overall diagnostic approach is to bring a DVOM and a test light with you, as well as the scanner, and have the workshop manual and wiring diagrams for the vehicle pulled up on your laptop before you start, then you're probably ready for a scanner. Or, in simpler terms, your diagnosis begins when you put the scan tool down.
Hi kenny i really like the look of that scanner but i live in the uk does it have all the uk cars n vans n stuff on it?
Is the GM 5.7l motor any good
Plugs being that far gone would definitely create a combustion knock which could set a knock sensor code, especially with cheaper grade gas and under heavy loads. Change the plugs, clear the codes and run it, see what happens. On some engines changing a knock sensor is a last resort, as some require lot of effort to remove them and unless you go back to OEM sensor, the aftermarket ones are a hit and miss if it's good or not. Buy a OEM knock sensor for a Honda and you'll scream bloody ripoff... freaking ridiculously priced. A knock sensor is something i would NOT replace unless absolutely necessary imo... you could actually make things worse in some cases.
That scanner seems old dog slow I have a TopDon one not sure which one but it $395.00 au & it's really comprehensive & bluetoth as well & I know some people say they forget the dongle this warns you to retreive the dongle.
Kenny do fords do this ?
I always thought autolite was ford. Guess I was wrong.
That scanner is now at 550isg
👍
I have a $300 scanner and it seems the less expensive ones seldom have the data base to explain a remedy for the DTC. Also I shared my P219A DTC with you after asking if would like to take a stab at the issue, no response for some reason. I understand if just not possible to analyze.
That's just a code. By itself, it can't tell you much. What else have you checked? The first number in a DTC usually tells you if the code is OBD2 or manufacturer specific. 0 is usually generic OBD2, while 1, 2, etc..., is typically a manufacturer specific code. But there are exceptions, so you have to check it. The A usually refers to a side of the motor, like bank one and bank two. So, if I had to guess, a powertrain code referring one of the engine banks, is a rich/lean condition (or air/fuel ratio).
All this is just a guess on my part because I don't know anything about your vehicle. However, there may be enough info to point you in the right direction. Start with your fuel trims. How do they look? Also, does the freeze frame data tell you if the code is set when the vehicle is running in open or closed loop?
@@AT-wl9yq I apologize I responded last week with specifics about what we have done and seems did not go to you. 2013 Silverado with 5.3. Bought in 2019 w/157K miles. Code I speak of came up in first week. As a preventative measure since used I changed MAF sensor and Air filter and did a service. Truck runs fine. As the years went forward, I have been doing more preventative maintenance. Spark plugs, wires, and intake manifold gasket upgraded to steel from plastic. The stock plastic gasket had a sign of damage on cylinder 7. Now at 208,000 miles and still an air fuel ratio imbalance on bank A. Cylinders 1,3,5,7. Injectors are stock. Wondering if an O-ring is drying out on one or more of them allowing lean or rich situation on one of the cylinders. Hope this makes it clear. Code comes and goes pretty regularly, engine runs smooth and well.
$465 current price though, not sub $400, but sub $500.
I use the like button to indicate I've watched the video.
Yes, that pesky bell 🔔! It would be nice if notifications were turned on by default!
I think some are, just not every video notification.
It would be nice if the bell thing actually worked. I have so many subscriptions it doesn't seem to know what to do.
@@TheFrenchPug make sure you're logged into TH-cam. Many times, if it looks like you've been unsubscribed, or notifications turned off you're not logged in. Let me know if I'm thinking correctly.
@@dans_Learning_Curve I'm always logged in.
@@TheFrenchPug so much for those thoughts! LoL 😂😂😆
kenney go old school, put a little weld on there and do some filing !!!!!
I need help my spark plug blew out cylinder 7 causing a misfire I have a 2000 bmw 745il what do you suggest?
I have BMWs and fix myself. Spark plugs don't typically blow out. If you know the plug is bad replace it. Then run the the engine. If you still have a misfire on #7, swap the coil with another one and see if that misfire goes to the other cylinder you swapped it with. If it does you have a bad coil. Just replace the coil. Only other thing that would cause a misfire in a cylinder is oil leaking from the valve cover gasket at that point. Is the sparkplug wet? Oily? If so, it's a leaking valve cover gasket.
@emoralis yes it actually shot out of the head I had some one try to tap in but I think tho chose the wrong size because it’s not flush with the engine so the coil don’t fit all the way down
Joined the fb page
Thank you!!
I know your a busy bloke mate but I need info if you can help. I have 09 subi Forester with ej25. 3 sohc . It took a dump so I'm in search of a motor. Online says I can only pull from 09-10 which I think is a lie but I don't speak subi lol. Can I use a dohc in place or grab a dohc and swap heads? If so from which era? What's bad this car I just reworked the heads few months ago with new MLS gaskets and stronger valves with new guides
This is the guy you want to ask: www.youtube.com/@MrSubaru1387
All that for worn out plugs???? Never needed a scanner to tell me the obvious
You're doing it all wrong Kenny. First of all you're supposed to call it a "big fancy scan tool" then talk real fast while waving your arms around and praising your 90's Toyota that burns oil! Scotty Kilmer lol
Never understood why Chrysler uses old school copper sparkplugs. They need to be changed every 60k or you end up with what you have here.
I'm not sure if your comment on how to tell the difference between bank 1 and bank 2 of an engine is correct. Maybe it is, but I'll have to look into it. I know for certain the correct method for determining which bank is one and two, is to look up the firing order for the vehicle you are working on. Bank 1 is always on the same side of the motor as cylinder number one, as listed in the firing order.
question, what do you think of a Toyota sienna? 2012 CAN GET IT FOR AROUND $9,800.00. believe you don't have much faith in Toyota. need it for my auction hauling vehicle keeps everything enclosed. thanks eagle.
Looking at the odometer I am surprised it has that many miles considering it’s a 4.7 junking engine unless it’s not the original engine that’s 4.7 our a pile of Doodoo just like that 2.7.
Just imagine how much extra gas was wasted on those plugs . And those threads were really rusted . But ......... " the car runs great " , " if it ain't broke , don't fix it " . " I never change oil , until I start using it " . Gee ... oil changes and plugs are real expensive . Engines are CHEAP !
These rank among the worse plugs I have personally seen. However Kenny could you please elaborate on the worst ones you have seen. thank you...Pete
I once made my chevelle with a 283 wind up very high RPM while running quite lean. On a road trip my buddy ( who liked to go very fast ) discovered my junky old car could do 140 mph and proceeded to drive that fast for many miles.
When we got home I took the plugs out and discovered the outer electrodes were just a nub.
I paid $5 k for my last Snap On scanner 10 years ago. Todays Snap On $5k scanner isn’t much more then your $400.00 Launch ( Not really) . Like you say the info is much more in the higher price scanners. And for you non-mechanics who rely on the cheaper “ code reader” , you likely don’t know the SnapOn needs a few updates a year , usually about $700/ update. Snap On does have a subscription price tho that supposedly reduces this update cost
Disregard customer equals skip video.
Nothing like doing extension videos to get more likes.