One thing that drives me nuts, is the non-standard parts, not being direct replacements thus causing undue constraints on vehicle usability and time necessary to figure out why things now suck. Great info on the rear seal replacement.
on a 3.2 you can advanced or retirebthe timing on the mototronic "computer" under the driver seat. there is the 6 step screw, and by turning it you can change the timing.
That is the fuel quality switch and is not meant to correct large timing problems like this. This switch also changes the fuel mixture at the same time.
Yep, make sure it's straight of course very minimal 1184. For sure oil or assembly lube the rubber and get the best quality seal you can. I think mine was elring. Pelican knows what the good stuff is usually because they get complaints on the stuff that leaks.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Great! I've ordered the elring for the front and rear main seal. Now I'm off to Panera bread to get lunch and an RMS center alignment tool
Is Patrick Motor Sport like Google in that there’s no one to talk to? How come you can’t call them and ask why the timing trigger is different, and if they have a corrected throw out bearing? Maybe they just messed up and sent you the wrong year/model parts. Or did you buy them aftermarket?
Any easy way to get those main seals out: Run a drywall screw into it on opposite sides and use a claw hammer to pry it out. As long as you don't run the screw in too far it won't even touch metal (other than the spring inside the seal)
I have, I think the throw out bearing isn't their fault. 32mm seems to be the standard size for my car according to the parts catalogs. I spoke to PM about the timing sensor problem and they agreed that something isn't right.
You can just drill right through the seal not going all the way through the other side and then pull out the seal instead of that junkie screwdriver thing. When you do it with the drill bit, you can reuse the old seal to install the new seal
One thing that drives me nuts, is the non-standard parts, not being direct replacements thus causing undue constraints on vehicle usability and time necessary to figure out why things now suck. Great info on the rear seal replacement.
It's frustrating to be held up with a quality problem like this, but imagine the engine damage that this could cause if unnoticed? Scary.
CV joint is a cool idea for a press tool, I have a 3/4” drive socket for this seal.
Cool, that's a huge socket😀
Thanks for sharing Tom
-Spanky
on a 3.2 you can advanced or retirebthe timing on the mototronic "computer" under the driver seat. there is the 6 step screw, and by turning it you can change the timing.
That is the fuel quality switch and is not meant to correct large timing problems like this. This switch also changes the fuel mixture at the same time.
Hi @GarageTimeAutoResto, same procedure for the front crankshaft seal behind the pulley? Lube with oil, three bond, etc.?
Yep, make sure it's straight of course very minimal 1184. For sure oil or assembly lube the rubber and get the best quality seal you can. I think mine was elring. Pelican knows what the good stuff is usually because they get complaints on the stuff that leaks.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Great! I've ordered the elring for the front and rear main seal. Now I'm off to Panera bread to get lunch and an RMS center alignment tool
That Patrick stuff is not cheap, I too would want it to be right not just almost right.
It has to be exactly right
Nothing but fun times.
The Solo cup was a great idea! Bummer on another hold up. Hopefully you won't need to replace the new parts.
Yep, bummed but instead of thrashing to get the engine in I took some days off and visited almost all the Porsche week open houses!
@@GarageTimeAutoResto oh, now that sounds like fun. Probably saw some really cool stuff!
Is the Three Bond 1184 the only gasket you’d use in this situation? Would you have used 1217 if it was what you had in the garage (like me)?
I haven't looked at the specs on 1217 but I suspect it would work fine. Technically nothing should also work, but I like a belt and suspenders.
Is Patrick Motor Sport like Google in that there’s no one to talk to? How come you can’t call them and ask why the timing trigger is different, and if they have a corrected throw out bearing? Maybe they just messed up and sent you the wrong year/model parts. Or did you buy them aftermarket?
I've called and spoken to them primarily about the sensor problem. They might take care of it if I can get the order number from the previous owner.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto crossing fingers, that would be great.
Any easy way to get those main seals out: Run a drywall screw into it on opposite sides and use a claw hammer to pry it out.
As long as you don't run the screw in too far it won't even touch metal (other than the spring inside the seal)
Our lives revolve around keeping 13 liters of oil inside the motor and arguing over 574 or 1184.
Ha ha, this is true
Call Patrick motor sports, if it won’t slide on that’s a definite problem.
I have, I think the throw out bearing isn't their fault. 32mm seems to be the standard size for my car according to the parts catalogs.
I spoke to PM about the timing sensor problem and they agreed that something isn't right.
You can just drill right through the seal not going all the way through the other side and then pull out the seal instead of that junkie screwdriver thing.
When you do it with the drill bit, you can reuse the old seal to install the new seal
Ok, go for it. I'd rather not have metal shavings on my bearings.
Why not use the correct tool😮
Because I don't have it
What is the correct tool?....
Porsche has a correct tool that covers the circumference of the seal and gives a uniform force and seats the seal correctly