How to fix a low-yield water well
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2025
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In this video, we review how to install a complete reservoir system for a low-producing, low-flow well. This system uses our custom component kit, found here: www.rainbrothe...
For more information on a reservoir tank, visit: www.rainbrothe...
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For layout drawing: irp.cdn-websit...
Just finished DIY installing a system that duplicates the setup presented here. We have a natural spring that can run low during drought so this system is perfect to store excess capacity and provide more consistent water throughout the year. I cannot say thank you enough to Rain Brothers for their content, products, and overall customer service throughout the project. I highly recommend getting in touch with them when planning your project and purchasing the bundled products so you know everything you need to get the job done works together.
Wow! Thank you so much for the kind words and for your business!! We really try hard to help people fix water issues,
so I’m so glad we could be of service
This is great. I have a well producing only 1/2 Gallon per Hour. No one will touch it and this system is EXACTLY what I was asking the locals about using and they said it's not a thing!!! Thank you!
Glad to help, but please note that a 1/2 gallon per hour is a really low yield, and may be far too low to try to salvage (after all, that’s only 12 gallons per day). You may be better off exploring a rain collection cistern, which is our specialty. Check out our website for more info:
www.rainbrothers.com
I put in their same system with a smaller tank over a year ago. It took the well about four days to fill the tank and then everything was fine. We water horses as well as the needs of the house. This year during a drought we maintained a minimum of 150 gallons after we had family visit. Two days later, the tank is full again. It was a perfect, reliable, affordable solution.
Thanks for showing how the system works. Exactly what I needed.
Thank you for posting! We may be looking at a low flow well. We will first begin by blowing it out and treating it to remove sediment. If we need to go this route it should be fairly straightforward.
This is just what I need -- Thanks for the video!
Great setup
What if your bladder tank is out at the above ground pump at the other end of your property? Could we still use a reservoir tank inside the house?
Yes, you just have to buy another pressure tank and use it for the pump that you’ll place inside the reservoir tank!
Very helpful video!
Glad it was helpful!
What size plumbing did you use for the waterline in and out from the submersible pump? Is that PVC or PEX?
1” PVC
If you do not have a basement to put the tank and pump saver in could it be installed in a shed as sort of a pump house out by the well? Just dig up and re route the well line up into the pump house so to speak before it enters the house.
Yes, absolutely! As long as the tank and components are protected from freezing
Do you have to put something in the water to peev it bacteria in it he water?
Regular chlorination of water and of indoor plumbing is an important part of managing rural water systems. We have chlorine pellets on our website ( www.rainbrothers.com/store/Chlorine-Pellets-2-2lb-Bag-p281493567 ) that you can add every three months to the tank directly to keep the water oxidized. Hope this helps!
If we could get this to work on a solar powered well pump and holding tank. I would be all in on that!
You could do that. It’s a little more complicated, but most people who have solar pumps are pumping into a reservoir and then gravity-feeding from the reservoir.
Is there a complete list for this project? Costs?
Our well is like a quart a minute. Instead of hydro fracking or re-drilling which would be $5k plus, what is the total cost for this project you showed? Thanks
Link to our complete kit is in the description of this video. Thanks!
Hi! I am having water supply issues. I have a family of 5 and the current well water supply keeps running out 3x a week whereby I have to go shut the pump off at the breaker.
At what point would you suggest this setup vs going deeper (320 to 520 ft) in your existing well? Thanks!
A reservoir system works very well and is a lot cheaper than drilling a new well. If you’re only running out of water three times a week, chances are good that a reservoir system will work well for you!
Excellent video. Love the overflow safety feature. Do the pump savers work on 3 phase water well pumps (the pump that goes in the actual well itself)? I have heard you say they work on 110 or 220 but nothing about 3 phase. My water well is 3 phase.
Great question! So, if this is a residential well, then you’re probably using a VFD pump that is single phase to the drive then three phase to the pump motor. Is that right? If so, your drive has built-in run-dry protection and you wouldn’t need a PumpSaver. Typically residential properties don’t have actual three phase power available, but VFD pumps are a different animal because they incorporate a single phase to three phase converter. If you truly have three phase, then, no, unfortunately our PumpSavers will not work
Would it be a problem to filter before the storage tank?
You can certainly do that, although you would just want to use sediment cartridge filters (not auto-backwashing filters, like a softener). Also, you would have to keep really good track of maintenance and when the filters need to be changed because you’ll likely never notice a pressure drop/clog
Thank you. Are there separate devices that could be installed so that I could have one box for detecting if the jet pump is pumping air so it will shut off but have it independent of the cistern's pump? My pumps are on separate breakers. What I really need right now though, is a way to get a float switch to work with a 230vac 6.1A pump to fill the cistern. I'm trying to find the best option to wire the float and need a float that is rated for potable water. Right now I have a square D liquid level switch but the arm keeps getting jammed and doesn't trigger the pump to either turn on or shut off. This leads to the cistern's water levels often being too low.
Hello - here is the float switch you would need for filling up a tank: www.rainbrothers.com/store/Normally-Closed-Float-Switch-120-230V-Bare-Leads-p281493413 . You might also want to get a cable weight: www.rainbrothers.com/store/Plastic-Cable-Weight-for-Float-Switch-Tethering-p521581298
You cannot tie more than one pump into a PumpSaver. The cistern pumps that we have (Springer Series Traditional pumps) have a built-in low level float switch to turn off automatically, so they don’t need to be wired into a PumpSaver.
Would this tank go to the existing pressure tank or straight out to the house?
Thanks for asking! The pump inside the reservoir tank would use your existing pressure tank, and your well pump would be disconnected from your pressure tank. If you check out our video library, you’ll see we have another video that goes into detail on how to set this system up. We also have a link to both videos on the product page that is linked in the description
I have a similar system, question though what is the pressure coming from the well pump to the tank? Mine runs at 100psi which seems high, would an expansion tank on that side of the system as well help?
In our setup (mentioned in this video), the supply pipe coming from the well is just open pipe that pours into the top of the tank. If you have 100 PSI, then you have a valve closed somewhere or are using very small pipe… I don’t know how 100 PSI could develop against an open-ended pipe unless you have a monster of a pump on the other end.
I am not a big fan of PVC pipe. CAn I use Pex into and out of the tank?
GREAT question! Our tank penetration gaskets are designed for pipe that is IPS or Iron Pipe Size. Schedule 40 or Schedule 80 PVC are both IPS. PEX pipe is CTS, or Copper Tubing Size. Oddly enough, there is a difference, so 1” PEX or 1” Copper or 1” CPVC all have the same outside diameter, but those 1” pipes all have a smaller diameter than 1” Schedule 40 or Schedule 80 PVC. That’s a long answer to your question, but, no, PEX will not create a water tight seal using our gaskets because the outside diameter is smaller than PVC. I don’t always love PVC either. In fact, we rarely use it for pressurized plumbing. BUT, it is useful for this application, and then once the piping leaves the tank, we transition to PEX using some threaded adapters. Personally, I prefer using Schedule 80 PVC which is just a more sturdy option, in my experience
What do you consider a "low-yield" well? I'm considering purchasing a house with a 3-4 GPM flow from the well. We have 6 people in our family, so is it likely we will need a tank like this to retain a consistent water flow for multiple showers and/or laundry/dishwashing. Thanks
Yes, 3-4 GPM would be considered low yield and would be a perfect candidate for this system
What tank model is that?
www.rainbrothers.com/store/500-Gallon-Freestanding-Potable-Water-Tank-White-p281493574 This one!
How to keep the water clean in the storage tank? If the water doesn’t empty out and the basin becomes stagnant how to keep it clean and pure? Choice of black color or clear storage tank, comments welcome?
Great question! Bleach or chlorine tablets (like the ones here : www.rainbrothers.com/store/System-Maintenance-c89014108 ) are always beneficial for keeping bacteria at bay. Black tanks are not needed in basements - it is better to use our clear tanks so that you can see water level easily
what video is the wiring
This is going to be the most helpful: How to Install a Little Fuse PumpSaver
th-cam.com/video/iJ9X-nLg1vA/w-d-xo.html . Also this: th-cam.com/video/WWxZSDNgLPo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=MJGa2v8YUFVA5UYx