interesting... About a month or two ago I picked one up off of ebay from a guy with the same name... I was wandering if it was you :-) I guess it was you! Thanks, it's a great insert and I've been working on the exact same project with the same lapping plates for the reason of grinding a smaller radius.
Phew! Talk about serendipity. Glad I ordered that insert when I saw it! (CT) I've a piece of 3/16" CR I'll use even though it's 1" wide. Easy enough to narrow it up and then I think it was Rob Renzetti who recently showed some scrapers he milled a trough out along the length to gain more flex. Looking forward to the project!
Yeah. I sold the last one I had just about a day before the video went up. I have more ordered, but they're back-ordered. I'll update when I get them. The stiffness of material with a rectangular section is proportional to the width times the cube of the height. So 3/16" (4.76mm) material will be about 68% stiffer than 4mm for the same width. The extra width adds stiffness, too, but it's linear. All of that said, I selected 4x20mm because it's what Stefan Gotteswinter suggested. It feels about right to me, and it's available cheaply (McMaster-Carr) so I went with it.
Those diamond discs are smooth, however, the ones I bought weren't flat. I measured 3-6 thou axial wobble. They still work (very well for some things) but don't rely on them to produce a flat surface.
I actually inspected mine on the surface plate last week. Two of them were flat, but the smoothest one was out by about .004". I massaged it a bit on the edge of the bench and got it to the point that the edges were flat on the plate when pressed down in the middle. I'll be turning an aluminum backer, so hopefully it'll be possible to get it into a state that the hub sucks it flat against the backer. I guess we'll see.
Isn't the indicator base hardened steel? I didn't think you could scrape that very easily. Certainly you would want a different angle on the edge than -5 deg, which is for soft cast iron.
Great channel, very informative, and you can get out of jury duty if you call the number, hear your name and the info at the end of the list for the number to call, and tell them you're out of state with your son, looking at colleges, they'll either reschedule or take you off the list...just saying. Keep up the great job on your channel.
@@dainius4168 I'm moving to Europe. I perform my civil duty walking in the national parks and forestry. paying into parking meters, Oh; and paying state and federal taxes. I don't want to be stuck in a court deciding someone's fate specially a gangster who has connection LOL
I can think of at least one way I'd do that interrupted thread. First I'd use a small center drill and use coordinates to get the center hole in the tang end dead center in the material. Then use the tailstocks live center. But do think I'd probably epoxy two slabs of metal to the tang end, then turn all three pieces to your threads major diameter. Doing that ensures there's no interrupted thread while it's being single point threaded. There's enough backlash in the average lathes leadscrew that the interruption between cutting and non cutting portions without the added filler pieces on each side could slightly throw off the thread pitch. Then just use heat too remove the filler pieces. The thread could be cut with a die of course, but single point lathe cut threads are always superior, straighter and fit much better if your doing your job. It's more money but buying A2 air hardening tool steel in those sizes is easy to find. And with that you could harden and temper the scrapers threaded tang area for better durability over it's long term lifespan if you think that might be important. It also depends on just how well that surface gauge was made if you can scrape it flat or not. If it was properly hardened like it should have been then it might be better to send it out for surface grinding.
Yeah, I debated for a long time in my head (where I hold most of my debates) how to do the thread. I think single-pointing would give the best result. And because of the size of the flat and the entrance angle, I wouldn't be concerned about backlash. Whether a die would work well all comes down to the thickness of the material and the size of the gaps in the die. My lathe has change gears (for now) and I'm pretty lazy, so you can guess where that's going. :) I did take a swipe at the bottom of the surface gauge with the insert, and it peeled off a shaving, so I think it's going to work. If not, I've got plenty of other stuff in the shop that should be, but isn't quite, flat.
Well if your hinting at adding an ELS at some point I'll be avidly watching that. :-) My lathe has what's optimisticaly called a semi quick change gearbox on it. Only 3 threads and power feed ranges available without changing a few gears. An electronic leadscrew would make a very useful addition. I'd say the bottom of that SG should be soft enough to scrape by the sounds of it.
I've been thinking about an ELS for a long time. I looked around for something off-the-shelf I could buy and found a few old projects (one pre-microcontroller). Stefan Gotteswinter teased something on Instagram a while back, but it looks like it's German-language only. I'm seriously thinking about having a run at developing one myself. I picked up a 4096-count encoder for the spindle and a couple of candidate microcontrollers, but I still haven't found the time to dig into the software.
This may be redundant since you may already know about his YT channel. Jan Sverre Haugjord. An unbelievable and extremely talented but still amature craftsman who does some of the best and "proper" machine tool rebuilds and hand scraping I know of. Both he and Stefan are supposed to have upcoming videos about that Rocketronics ELS. Two possible problems with it from my limited understanding and knowledge. One as you say is it's native language (I think) and from my perspective it's apparently set up only for metric threading? Anything computer related is far outside my knowledge base though. Imperial part sizes, threads etc are made every day on metric ball screw machines. There simply a conversion within the program to get the required dimensions and thread pitch. If or why that Rocketronics system can't do imperial threading is something I don't know the reasons for. If you can come up with a workable system that can do both imperial and metric thread pitches, and are willing to make user installed kits available at that point? I'd be more than a little interested. Your VFD/remotor video series proved to me you do know what your doing. :-)
I had not planned to, but certainly could. Would people be interested in that? Machining the tang to fit might be a challenge if you're not using CNC, though I suppose it could be done.
really cant believe you dont have more subscribers great chanell thanks for sharing
Thank you for your kind words. You have my permission to tell all your friends. :)
interesting... About a month or two ago I picked one up off of ebay from a guy with the same name... I was wandering if it was you :-) I guess it was you! Thanks, it's a great insert and I've been working on the exact same project with the same lapping plates for the reason of grinding a smaller radius.
Yeah, that was probably me. Thanks for your support!
Update: I now have a few inserts available. Get 'em while they last: goo.gl/6xE9xs
possible to get the fusion files for this scraper or dimensional drawings ?
I'd love to get those also
Phew!
Talk about serendipity.
Glad I ordered that insert when I saw it! (CT)
I've a piece of 3/16" CR I'll use even though it's 1" wide.
Easy enough to narrow it up and then I think it was Rob Renzetti who recently showed some scrapers he milled
a trough out along the length to gain more flex.
Looking forward to the project!
Yeah. I sold the last one I had just about a day before the video went up. I have more ordered, but they're back-ordered. I'll update when I get them.
The stiffness of material with a rectangular section is proportional to the width times the cube of the height. So 3/16" (4.76mm) material will be about 68% stiffer than 4mm for the same width. The extra width adds stiffness, too, but it's linear. All of that said, I selected 4x20mm because it's what Stefan Gotteswinter suggested. It feels about right to me, and it's available cheaply (McMaster-Carr) so I went with it.
Can you please indicate the sandvik coromant part number + order designation for this exact scraper blade? tHx!!
Those diamond discs are smooth, however, the ones I bought weren't flat. I measured 3-6 thou axial wobble. They still work (very well for some things) but don't rely on them to produce a flat surface.
I actually inspected mine on the surface plate last week. Two of them were flat, but the smoothest one was out by about .004". I massaged it a bit on the edge of the bench and got it to the point that the edges were flat on the plate when pressed down in the middle. I'll be turning an aluminum backer, so hopefully it'll be possible to get it into a state that the hub sucks it flat against the backer. I guess we'll see.
@@Clough42 - magnets in your backplate ....
Isn't the indicator base hardened steel? I didn't think you could scrape that very easily. Certainly you would want a different angle on the edge than -5 deg, which is for soft cast iron.
⭐🙂👍!
S 👌
Great channel, very informative, and you can get out of jury duty if you call the number, hear your name and the info at the end of the list for the number to call, and tell them you're out of state with your son, looking at colleges, they'll either reschedule or take you off the list...just saying. Keep up the great job on your channel.
Thank you. As it turned out, cases got settled and I didn't end up getting called in.
On the other hand isn't it nice to perform your civil duty? I'm from Europe so we don't have jury duty here but I'd go if I were asked.
@@dainius4168 I'm moving to Europe. I perform my civil duty walking in the national parks and forestry. paying into parking meters, Oh; and paying state and federal taxes. I don't want to be stuck in a court deciding someone's fate specially a gangster who has connection LOL
I can think of at least one way I'd do that interrupted thread. First I'd use a small center drill and use coordinates to get the center hole in the tang end dead center in the material. Then use the tailstocks live center. But do think I'd probably epoxy two slabs of metal to the tang end, then turn all three pieces to your threads major diameter. Doing that ensures there's no interrupted thread while it's being single point threaded. There's enough backlash in the average lathes leadscrew that the interruption between cutting and non cutting portions without the added filler pieces on each side could slightly throw off the thread pitch. Then just use heat too remove the filler pieces. The thread could be cut with a die of course, but single point lathe cut threads are always superior, straighter and fit much better if your doing your job.
It's more money but buying A2 air hardening tool steel in those sizes is easy to find. And with that you could harden and temper the scrapers threaded tang area for better durability over it's long term lifespan if you think that might be important. It also depends on just how well that surface gauge was made if you can scrape it flat or not. If it was properly hardened like it should have been then it might be better to send it out for surface grinding.
Yeah, I debated for a long time in my head (where I hold most of my debates) how to do the thread. I think single-pointing would give the best result. And because of the size of the flat and the entrance angle, I wouldn't be concerned about backlash. Whether a die would work well all comes down to the thickness of the material and the size of the gaps in the die. My lathe has change gears (for now) and I'm pretty lazy, so you can guess where that's going. :)
I did take a swipe at the bottom of the surface gauge with the insert, and it peeled off a shaving, so I think it's going to work. If not, I've got plenty of other stuff in the shop that should be, but isn't quite, flat.
Well if your hinting at adding an ELS at some point I'll be avidly watching that. :-) My lathe has what's optimisticaly called a semi quick change gearbox on it. Only 3 threads and power feed ranges available without changing a few gears. An electronic leadscrew would make a very useful addition.
I'd say the bottom of that SG should be soft enough to scrape by the sounds of it.
I've been thinking about an ELS for a long time. I looked around for something off-the-shelf I could buy and found a few old projects (one pre-microcontroller). Stefan Gotteswinter teased something on Instagram a while back, but it looks like it's German-language only. I'm seriously thinking about having a run at developing one myself. I picked up a 4096-count encoder for the spindle and a couple of candidate microcontrollers, but I still haven't found the time to dig into the software.
This may be redundant since you may already know about his YT channel. Jan Sverre Haugjord. An unbelievable and extremely talented but still amature craftsman who does some of the best and "proper" machine tool rebuilds and hand scraping I know of. Both he and Stefan are supposed to have upcoming videos about that Rocketronics ELS. Two possible problems with it from my limited understanding and knowledge. One as you say is it's native language (I think) and from my perspective it's apparently set up only for metric threading? Anything computer related is far outside my knowledge base though. Imperial part sizes, threads etc are made every day on metric ball screw machines. There simply a conversion within the program to get the required dimensions and thread pitch. If or why that Rocketronics system can't do imperial threading is something I don't know the reasons for.
If you can come up with a workable system that can do both imperial and metric thread pitches, and are willing to make user installed kits available at that point? I'd be more than a little interested. Your VFD/remotor video series proved to me you do know what your doing. :-)
Good video, are you selling the handles as well?
I had not planned to, but certainly could. Would people be interested in that? Machining the tang to fit might be a challenge if you're not using CNC, though I suppose it could be done.
I am interested let me know how much with the insert included