I tell people that the CYA is one of the most important parts of pool care. pH and TA... little acid here and bicarb there, and bing-bang-boom you're done. But the CYA, either too high or low, will render your chlorine less effective. When it's less effective there's little to no sanitizer in the pool. When there's no sanitizer you're going to get algae regardless of whether the pH and TA are in line.
too complicated.....just go with an Irish / St Patricks Day type theme all Summer long.......serve green beer, get a lot of green decorations and green lawn furniture... invite the friends over....
Thank you so much for your videos. I'm from Australia and have had our pool about 20 years. I have been trying to get our green pool clear since October 2016 (6 months) and have spent about $1000 doing so on various products from our pool shop, including replacing sand in our filter with a new glass product. Our summer had continual intense heat up around 46 degrees Celsius and we were only able to use the pool about 3 times. Last week I followed your video instructions and this week we have a sparkling pool! Thank you!!😎 The difference was the initial 9 litres of chlorine at once; brushing down the sides when adding chlorine; ands backwashing 2 to 3 times everyday until the water cleared. Simple steps that even this mere female could understand. Once again thank you.
Just subscribed! Total pool novice now my friends are calling me asking about pool questions after I took mine from green/black to crystal clear with my stabilizer over 150. Thanks
My pool was exactly this one....CYA 300...drained and refilled took 3 days...back to the light green...balanced chemicals,now use only chlorine and muriatic acid..keep an eye on alkalinity..hardness which are both easier to keep steady...also you must brush and vacuum regularly ..2-3 times per week....this video is right on....maybe I said that before🤷🏻♂️
Thank you so much for the informational video! This gives us a place to start with our green pool! We can't thank you enough for the time you spent taking and posting these!
2:08 You say a FC of 7-8 is unswimmable. I disagree, with that much CYA, most of the chlorine will be bound to the CYA so it will be just as comfortable as a pool with 2 FC and 30 CYA. I also think it's better to pure in liquid additives in front of a return jet for better mixing without creating a high concentration in a small area.
enjoyed your video! our filter gave out and it took us a bit if time to install the new one..so our 22'round 12000 gal.pool.went an entire week with no filtration or chemicals...when we came out it was super green. ..we brushed it and turned even greener. we added 3 pounds of power powder chlorine and it turned a light cloudy teal..what would you suggest at this point?
I would just throw a few gallons of shock in it run the filter and be done.. The sun and algae brings the chlorine levels back down and will become maintainable. Ive brought worse condition water back from the dead, almost black water.. water is expensive also. Just filter and backwash constantly and keep the chlorine levels higher in the beginning. Ive even used cheap dollar store bleach AKA cheap shock chlorine.When it becomes clear start vacuuming and scrubbing and then if the alkalinity needs adjusting then deal with that. been doing it for years on the cheap..My old man used to work in water treatment for over two decades treating drinking water he showed me this years ago and has never failed me yet.
kev31779 Sounds good, but one thing that was not mentioned in the comment was the high CYA. FC needs to be 7.5% of the CYA. As that rises through the use of trichor tabs the FC must also increase to keep the 7.5% relationship. In this pool's case the owner would need to run the FC at 7 - ppm just for it to be effective. That's alot of chlorine and alot of shocking the pool. What about the filter? This is a cartridge filter. What if it has more than 2000 filter hours on it? That wasn't mentioned as well. What if a pool owners has a DE filter and grids with holes? Does they need to be replaced? You will NEVER clear a pool with a dirty filter.That was also not mentioned in the comment. And much more. If it was that easy then thousands of pool owners wouldn't be spending $500 - $1000 trying to clear up their pools. The pool store says "shock" and filter" but most of the time it's not that simple. It's not "sock and filter and be done". When I walk away from a pool it's clear AND balanced AND the filter is running perfectly.
Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide To me its never been that complex, your over thinking it for the common pool owner that knows nothing and replying with high end terms and what ifs to put them down when their method works for them. Im not a pool expert but a common pool owner that likes to keep it simple. Not run to the pool store and repeat tests all day. Ive always just did what i said and used my DE filter and cleaned the fingers off if the algae was that bad. Then added fresh DE and filter. Then balanced the PH after the pool was clear. It only takes one afternoon. Every situation is different but there is always more than one was to skin a cat. I am just trying to show here that this may be a bit confusing for the average person. The tests at the pool store do not tell you why the pool is green and algae amounts only water chems. They will always say to me "SHOCK the hell out or it".
+kev31779 Shock the hell out of it and add algaecide. Then add floc to help the dead algae settle out, then vacuum up the massacre of dead algae lying at the bottom of the pool. Wait a week or so for the ph to level back out after the shocking, balance if necessary :) This is how I have always done it. Could turn a swamp crystal clear.
+Richard Smith Again, that sounds good but much is missing. What about the filtration system? What if the CYA was too low or high? What about the pH/chlorine relationship? Why did the pool go green to begin with? Green doesn't = green doesn't = green. There's not a one size fits all approach to clearing up pools. What if one pool owner has well water and another is on city water? Yes you can shock the pool until the FC is 50ppm and allow it to filter. The water may "clear up" but the reason the pool went green was never addressed. The water will still be unbalanced. If the reason is not known and fixed, as the sun rises and sets, the pool will again go green and the pool owner will be right back in the same situation in about 1 month.
I clean the pool first and filter and dumped 2 jugs of liquid chlorine 2.5. I let the filter run for 8-10 hours. It cleared up in 2 days! That's what I did coming back home from vacation.
What a sad day for me. I finally got my first client but they just happen to have a green pool after being turned off for about two months because of Hurricane Maria. But watching this video... im way over my head.
You can do it when you have the right info. I cleared up a green pool in 5 days after Irma hit. th-cam.com/video/Dpy-bQ_Oxg4/w-d-xo.html What we're dealing with are easy 1st grade laws of pool chemistry that are applicable everywhere so you can have the exact same results each time.
I have individual videos about chlorine, pH, etc.. but not one video that covers everything you need to know. For that, I have eBooks and phone consults that answer all of your questions.
Shock the hell out of it and when the pressure gets too high clean the filter. Draining is a waste of time. My pool never sees anything but chlorine, and the only problem I have is algae starting to appear when the level is too low. I test the water by simply putting a few drops of #1 right into the water. It's as simple as that. I used to buy into all this chemical testing/balancing, and taking samples to the supply store. Not any more. They are there to take your money.
Yeah? Well looks like my "ineffective" chlorine is doing a pretty good job at keeping the water algae free and crystal clear. On top of that, no more red/burning eyes and other unpleasant biological effects. Apparently, I don't need chemistry/science either!
Hey pool guy, i just bought a home that has a pool but hasn't been used in about 8 months. The water is disgusting, brown and cloudy with all kinds of frogs and tadpoles and whatever else is in it. What do I do to get it back in shape?
I'd like to have your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers: Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper). Hopefully you watched the video and the chemical numbers I gave. They told me the course of action to take and your chem numbers will tell you. Without these numbers I'm just guessing at what the problem is. Get back to me with the chemical numbers and I'm sure I can help. I also do phone consultations for a donation of your choice. www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-consultation.html
Dear pool guy, I have a pool that I have taken good care of. But recently it turned green. We vacuumed it put shock in and green to clean in. and we cleaned the filters to. We have checked the ph levels and everything else and there all fine!! any help?
First, I'd like to have your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers: Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster. Hopefully you've seen the entire video series and how I am constantly taking the chemical reading. These dictate how I attack the green algae problem. And also in this video: How To Clear Up Cloudy Swimming Pool Water I believe Green to Clean is Disodiumsalt of ethylenediaminetetraaceticaciddihydratediammoniumsulfate. This is a fancy word for adding ammonia. Using ammonia to kill algae is a little tricky. Without these numbers I'm just guessing at what the problem is. Get back to me with the chemical numbers and I'm sure I can help. Robert
Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide Hello, I have recently drained my pool and it has turned VERY GREEN. Me and my family are very nervous about the upcoming summer months and we are wondering if you can help us out. Please message me about this ASAP. Best regard's Elijah D.
Hi again. I see that you had posted a similar issue back in 2014. The same advice is I'll need to have your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers: Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster. Readings such as "fine" really don't help. Take a sample of pool water to your local pool store to get the numbers then email back. Green To Clean is basically ammonia and is useless. What you need to do is to superchlorinate the pool with liquid chlorine but I'll need the chemical numbers before that happens. If you want a personal consultation I can do that as well. All your questions will be answered. I have nothing to sell you so you know I'm not bias. Pool Consultation
Good video. Just to clarify one thing you said, at high stabilizer levels (CYA) you need higher chlorine levels for the same algae fighting effectiveness. With your pool at a level of 90-100 you would need a minimum chlorine level of about 7ppm to be effective. It is still safe to swim in a pool with this level because the excess chlorine is tied up with the stabilizer, hence the reason why you need so much chlorine to begin with. The real problem is that it becomes cost prohibitive to keep using that much chlorine. At higher level, more chlorine is lost each day to cleaning and to the effects of sunlight. Also just so viewers know, CYA is continually added into the water by the chlorine pucks.
Thanks for the post. The high CYA is the reason I did a partial drain and refill. At the 1:55 mark I start talking about the relationship between CYA and chlorine and mention that a pool with CYA of 90 - 100ppm will need to have the CL at 7 - 8ppm to be effective. I agree it's very cost prohibitive to keep a pool's CL at 7 - 8ppm. This pool's CYA was 100ppm but the pool owner tried to keep the CL at 2 which (then she gave up completely) causes the CL to be very ineffective. I've also made videos on the danger of overuse of chlorine tabs, use and shocking with stabilized Dichlor chlorine. Hope this clarifies it and clears up any misconceptions.
moises saldivar It really depends on the pool and how many total dissolved solids (TDS) are in the pool. I cleared up and made a video of a pool that sat for nearly 9 months. The filter was off the entire time but I didn't empty the pool, just cleared it up. Some people will tell you to drain and refill when the TDS gets to 1500ppm or greater. Others may say 1000ppm. There's really no way to figure out what exactly comprises the TDS. My general rule is this: Unless there's some contamination or safety issue such as sewage, flood water, large dead rotting animal, etc... the water should be alright to clear up. Many pool owners that I knew in Arizona would drain and refill every 3 - 5 years and it worked well for them. Once per year as maintenance is generally not needed.
HomeOwnerRepair Thanks. It was about the 500th pool I've cleared up but the first time I recorded it. Series was a bit too long but after clearing up a few more I've learned what to do and managed to get them down to a reasonable length.
Hello Robert. Great series of videos. Just wanted to know how much would the green algae in the pool throw off the CYA reading, in your opinion? I'm fixing a pool that's had no maintenance for a year and a half. Six months ago someone tried to clear up the algae but couldn't because they didn't discover the air leak at the union at the pump so the pump never primed. Pulled about 25 gallons of leaves out of the pool so far. Dissolved solids are only 500 out of 2500. Chlorine is at 0. Also, what do you think about Bio-Active 14430 Cyanuric Acid Reducer? Water restrictions where I Live and the local pool store said the CYA level was about 105. Thanks!
+Kevin O Great question Kevin. Algae won't throw the CYA off, per se. It's the FC to CYA relationship that gets thrown off thus allowing algae to grow. Your TDS are fine. Bio-Active, as you know, is a CYA reducer. But here's the catch: you must keep using it or the CYA will go back to its original level. It's about $50 for 8 oz. that last time I checked. And I was none to impressed with their customer service. The guy i talked to gave me a bunch of Yeps and Mmmm Hmmms. After 10 questions he FINALLY said you need to keep using it. BA, long term solution, probably not. It's best to talk to your customers or other pool owners about the danger of using stabilized chlorine for weekly maintenance and weekly shocking.
+Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide. The local pool store (Leslie's) said the water should be crystal clear before doing a CYA test as not to skew the results. Didn't think it would make that much difference. Only other reading that's problematic (besides FC, TC and CYA) is the pH of 8. I'll fix that before shock with some muriatic acid. You quoted the rep for Bio-Active said one would need to keep using their product or the CYA will rise. This is only when using stabilized chlorine, correct?
+Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide. Plus i'll dilute the pool water sample with 50% distilled water to get a more accurate reading since it can only be tested for a CYA of 100.
+Kevin O For the water to be crystal clear the algae must first be killed and filtered out. That will use up alot of chlorine to then realize you'll need to do a partial drain and refill to lower the CYA. All that chlorine literally just went down the drain. This pool was not clear when I took the tests, nor the hundreds of other pools I've cleared up. You must take the tests to determine the course of action to take. If you think about the logic the pool store employee is using, then you'd first clear up the pool to take the tests to determine how to clear up the pool that you just cleared up. You can also take a sample of water from the air bleeder valve. That water will also give you an accurate sample. For the Bio-Active, yes, this is when stabilized chlorine is being used. Either dichlor/trichlor granular or trichlor tabs. The other forms of chlorine, liquid and cal hypo, are not stabilized. Never use dichlor or trichlor granular for weekly chlorination or shocking. This is why so many pool's CYA goes through the roof so quickly because pool store employees tell the customers to use it on a weekly basis.
Hi Robert, Thank you for all the videos, they are very informative. I have an approx 44000 gallon pool which has been very green for about 1.5 months now. I have spent alot of money on chemicals at this point and recently got a water chemistry done. FAC 3 TAC3 CH 250 CYA 90 TA 90 PH 7.6 TDS 1000 and that is after using green to clean and shocking it with the recommended shock. since after the test, i have drained about a feet of water, have been running the pump 24 hrs, have installed new cartridge filters-- all with no result. the water chemistry remains favorable. last night i shocked it again with 1 lbs of HDX trichloro shock (1 lb treats 20000) and its about 14 hrs since the schock. this morning, disheartened to see no improvement at all. please help.
+khando ma Hello and sorry for the delay. The comment never showed up until now. Green to Clean, and I'll assume it's Coral Seas, is Disodiumsalt of ethylenediaminetetraaceticaciddihydratediammoniumsulfate. Yep, big word but basically you're trying to kill the algae using ammonia. That's not gonna work. And the HDX Trichlor simply added to the problem. It's stabilized chlorine and your CYA is already at 90ppm which is out of the proper range of 30 - 50ppm. You're going to need to do a partial drain and refill to get the CYA to 30ppm then work from there. Unfortunately there's no easy fix for what happened. Remember my eBooks and I'm also available for personal consults as well.
Hello Robert I was watching ur videos on the nasty pool the one where was over 2 thousand pounds of algae, and I was trying to find ur ebook that u was talking about buy didn't have any luck getting hold of it. My pool has a lot of algae but not as bad as the one on ur video but I need ur step by step guide. Please send me ur email address or a link so I can get the ebook to take care my problem please. Thank U Warren Middleton
Hi Warren. You can go to my site and get the eBooks there. Links are below. While you're there check out the testimony page. I've just added a few more before and after pics that are amazing. You can also go on the "Contact Me" page that's found in the navbar on the left side. Thanks and have a great swimming season. www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook.html www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/how-to-clear-up-a-green-pool-eBook.html www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html
The water had to be changed due to the high CYA. Once that was decreased to the right level is was easy to clear up with the right amount of chemicals to do the job.
Were so confused and overwhelmed with our pool whole situation. Our pool is so green and nasty. It looks more like a swamp than a pool. I need some guidance!!!!
Hi Isabel. Clearing a pool is incredibly easy to do. I have many resources available on my website that can be found here: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html I would really encourage you to look that page over before spending one more dime in the pool store. I'm always here to help. Thanks and have a great day.
@@cleanpoolspa-ultimateswimm6373 Ok I'm trying to understand your videos. We just had our pool drained last Saturday and already its green again!!!! We paid $700.00 ...How much would you charge us to teach us how to care for our own pool. I think this new pool man is taking advantage. I truly hope not but why would our pool turn green again. After having it drained, replaced the filters, and replaced the filter manifold.
@@izzyQuezada70 Hi Isabel. Please don't pay the guy one more dime. You can clear up a 20k gallon pool 15x over for $700 in simple chemicals. I have a flat fee of $45 for a 1 hour phone consultation and I'll also throw in my eBook Clear Blue Pool that I can easily email to you. You'll learn exactly how to clear up and take care of your pool and you'll be amazed just how incredibly easy it is. I absolutely promise you that. You'll already get another eBook Solutions To Common Pool Water Problems with your consult, but I'll add in the other one for free as well. Here's the link: payhip.com/b/YO5R
@@cleanpoolspa-ultimateswimm6373 Ok I'm going to talk to my husband. He's asleep since he works graveyard . But I definitely would like my husband to speak to you so he can learn. Then teach me thank you so much! Too bad we already spent the $700.00. Is there any way possible if you can come to our house and teach us??? My husband's next days off are this Sunday and Monday. But if not then I'll have my husband have that phone call with you .
@@izzyQuezada70 If you're near me, then yes, but that's another rate. If a phone call works, then we can do that. And under no circumstances put one more drop of anything in the pool until we talk. I work from home so my schedule is flexible. Hope to hear from you soon.
hello, I was just wondering if there is any way I can get my pool back to clear without taking out all of the water (because that's what the pool store told me to do ) is there any way I can get it clear without doing that.
There are only a few reasons why a pool would need to be drained. High CYA is one of them. Post a full set of chemical numbers and we'll see what's going on.
For this you don't need to drain your pool. With the small amount of info I have it's difficult to give you many details. the first thing is to increase the CYA to 30ppm using liquid CYA and reduce the pH to 7.0. Keep filtering and use liquid chlorine to bring the FC up to 12 - 15ppm. Clearing a pool is a process. It also depends on your filtration system, whether a DE, cartridge, or sand. Then there's well water with metals or city water with no metals.
You can use either a mulitport valve if the system has one, or use a submersible pump which is safer to use. You can drain from the deep end and fill at the shallow end. This will maintain the water level reducing the chances of any collateral damage. You may get some overlap with draining some fresh water but the cost/benefit ratio is good.
Where the pool is located and the ground, water level there will determine the chances of the pool popping up out of the ground or cracking. My sister has a pool company on the East Coast of Georgia and when renovations call for draining a pool, I have seen them drill holes in the bottom of the pool to relieve pressure, then pump it out as they work. If the pressure is bad, when they do so, it looks like a geyser going off! Draining a pool is serious business. If it has a liner, you take a chance of it drying out once it is drained. When you refill, it may split. I'm not a pro but have been around the business many years.
I drained my own pool several years ago to have it re-plastered. The dumbass pool company drilled out a huge hole in the bottom. After they plastered over it you could see some of the grey from the underlayment they applied. I get to live with it now, but at least it's noticeable probably only to me.
This was literally titled how to clean ta green pool, but your responses drain it that’s not very helpful not everyone’s in a position where they can do that.
This pool required a partial drain and refill. Pools go green for a variety of reasons. Sometimes a partial drain and refill is not needed. Thanks for the comment.
switch to a DE filter and dont shock the pool with stabilized powder. the only times i ever saw high cyanuric levels was improper chems used to shock the pool
All filters have their strengths and drawbacks but DE does filter the best. I'll concede that. The pool owner didn't use stabilized chlorine but she did use trichlor tabs which slowly increased the CYA until it got too high and the pool was in need of a partial drain and refill. Once that was done it was simply a matter of days before the pool was cleared up.
You should leave the filter out, hit it with a lot of chlorine and run the pump until the water is cloudy blue. You should never run algae through a filter like that. Put the filter back in after the water is cloudy blue, run the pump until the water clears then clean the filter again. By the way that single filter system is not near enough for a pool that size. My pool is 18750 gallons and has 4 of those cartridges. Also the cyanuric acid is so high most likely due to those tabs in the chlorinator. They most likely never lose much water / put it back in so they should go to more of an non stabilized chlorine.
if you are referring to Cya (cynaric acid or stabalizer) then you can throw in a few chlorine tablets as they are made with 70% chlorine and 30% stabalizer/Cya, once those disolve over 2 - 3 weeks then your Cya should go up 👍 I'm also a pool technician in the city of Houston Texas Olympic Pools and Spas just so you know I kinda know what I'm talking about with the knowledge of a 20+ year vet lol hope that helps - jacob
You do not need to drain the pool in this case. 1 Litre of Fast Flock, 1 Litre or Nil-Phos, 1 Litre of Algecide and 20 litres of liquid pool chlorine. Leave the pump and filter on for 24hrs, return to site and Vacuum to waste. Re-treat pool and it'll be fine in 48hrs. And the home owners dont have to spend a fortune refilling their pool with a high water bill.
+Mark Deocareza A pool owner who finds himself in this particular situation will need to drain and refill to get the CYA to 30ppm which is in the proper range of 30 - 50ppm. There's no other effective way to reduce the CYA. A flocc drops smaller particles to the bottom and makes them larger particles for easier vacuuming. Floccs do nothing to address why a pool goes green or cloudy. It's very easy to maintain a perfect pool without using floccs and clarifiers. Nil-Phos is a phosphate remover which has no bearing on whether a pool goes green. Phosphates are food for algae but are not the only source of food. Chlorine kills the algae when kept at the proper levels. Phosphate levels can be 1ppm or 2000ppm, it doesn't matter when the FC is in line with the CYA to sanitize the pool water. Algaecides have a much slower kill rate than chlorine so it does very little to kill already existing algae. The only algaecide that should ever be used is PolyQuat 60. And all of the dead algae will be in the caught in the filter within 24hrs? No mention of cleaning it or backwashing?
Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide I recommend strongly that you Britt drain your pool start over again without this chemical bull s*** that's f****** cyanide in your pool AKA TRICHLOR CYANAURIC ACID AKA FLOUROSYLIC ACID ALSO CALLED FLOURIDE. This is a deadly poison but we have been putting into our f****** pool system letting our families and our kids swim around unbelievable what they have done just unbelievable go look up on the government website there MSDS on these chemicals they're all related they're all the same deadly poison you can treat your pool with tetraborate borate aka borax 100% natural mineral from Mother Earth these bastards have made money making us sick this takes your immune system and wipes it out it causes cancer tumors excetra excetra look it up the majority of them at least one to own the corporations no this is a toxic chemical if you read about it you can't let fish swimming in it without them dying then you know it's going to affect your body it'll even say killed organisms you are a large organism this is unbelievable and now I've had to spend money money money to get the s*** out of my pools and you think about when you drain it all this toxic chemicals where does it go it goes into the aquifers to go into people's homes so these companies should be have this s*** s*** out of them I'm sick of all of this horrific attack on human health. You have taken what is supposed to be a wonderful experience swimming in a pool and made it one where sickens the body little at a time and if you don't know it better look it up because this is the s*** you're selling
+Sphinx Hutc First off I'm not a "Britt" as your comment states. As I said in my other posts I endorse Borax, but that's only to raise the pH. Many pool owners don't even need a pH increaser due to the outgassing and bubbles created from swimming. The pH rises naturally, not to mention more local water companies are increasing the pH. One cannot simply add Borax and call it good. It takes much more than that. Concerning the chemical makeup of the products you mentioned, here they are: Hexafluorosilicic acid, (H3O) 2SiF 6, is used for cleaving Si-O bonds of silyl ethers. Trichloroisocyanuric acid is C3Cl3N3O3 which is used as a disinfectant in pools. They are different chemical compounds, not an "also know as" or AKA. I'm not aware of any pool product that uses Hexafluorosilicic acid. If you would like to start a TH-cam channel to voice your opinion you can. You don't need my permission to do so. I ask that your comments are made in an intelligent, lucid, and well thought out manner. I've stated that before on several other videos of mine that you've already commented on. I don't sell these products as I've already made known to you. You're also aware that I do a wonderful job at educating pool owners on how to have the best pool at the lowest possible cost and use the least amount of chemicals possible. Please take the time to make videos that are of interest to you instead of leaving vicious attacks on mine. You've already left several of these kinds of comments.
Been doing pool for 16 years here in Florida, you do not drain green pools. Obviously there is no chlorine in this pool, add a couple of gallons of chlorine and acid as need, let run 24hrs and return next day to brush pool and adjust chems and add algecide if needed.
It's great you've been doing pools for so long. And It is agreeable there's no FC in the pool. However, the basic laws of pool chemistry and physics don't agree with your theory. Thanks for watching and have a great day.
OK I am lost. The header says How To Clear Up Green Swimming Pool Water and 1st thing you say to do is drain it? Water is not cheap here due to our way over inflated sewer bills (they claim they will adjust but they do not.) So I can just skip this part right?
Do not just drain the water. Vacuum to waste if you can and top up, then adjust your PH then add chlorine, algaecide etc Floc if you have to then vacuum again and you should be good to go in a couple of days. Correct PH is key here.
Thanks for watching. This this comment has already been addressed many times, but the chemistry answer still remains. The pH is one of the parameters but not the most important. The effectiveness of the FC is dependent upon the CYA and pH. Vacuuming to waste cannot be done with a cartridge filter. Algaecides cannot kill algae faster than it reproduces and flocc is not needed.
Thanks Robert My pool never looked better and I understand the Chem balance that is needed And did myself thanks to your ebooks and videos best money I spend in a long time thanks again man. Dick
morris333777 Cost wise, you're probably right about wanting to be over 50 in a really sunny location. However, as long as you never allow FC to get below recommended minimum for your CYA level, it should never turn green.
Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide Where could we get that acid and liquid chlorine. I have checked few stores and most of them have the calcium hypochlorite cause it bumps up the PH. I have seen your videos and you are suggesting not to use that if there is algae. Mine one is 12000 gallons pool. All the readings are ok. Running the newly replaced cartridge filter for last 6 days. The water is still cloudy. Did vacuum every day once and clean the cartridge . When I do vacuum, the algae are floating up to the surface the pool turns green. Put at least 15 gallons of shocks, 1 clarifies, baking soda, algecide etc but no sign of improvement.
Pool Tech tip. NEVER EVER put acid or any chemicals on the tile. It'll leave a nasty stain. Once your done with your acid please put wash it off in the water and put it somewhere out of the way that isn't on the tile. >_
My pool was worse that this one.I did put 10 cups of granulated Chlorine and run the pump for 6 hours and then clean the filter and let the pump run for another 2 hours .
You do not need to drain this pool. All you need is GREEN TO CLEAN WITH SHOCK BAGS LIKE POWER POWDER PLUS ALL SOLD AT LESLIE'S!!! The GREEN TO CLEAN WILL CLEAN IT UP WITHIN 36HRS!!
The reply to clearing up this pool has already been given. I can certainly see why you would think using ammonium sulfate (Green To Clean) would be beneficial. however, the laws of pool chemistry and simple physics do not agree with your theory. These laws were applied resulting in a perfectly clear and balanced pool. Thanks for watching.
I can certainly help. My website has several resources available which can be found right here: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html
;sorry, that's BS. don't drain that water, clean it. 7-8 ppm unswimable? you wouldn't want to swim in it when it is that green either. SHOCK IT, clean it, then swim in it.
Mark Bezinque Thanks for the comment Mark, but BS? Why is it BS? Why wouldn't you do a partial drain and refill? And what is meant by SHOCK IT, clean it? Please give your definition of "SHOCK IT" and "clean it". How would you go about clearing up and balancing this pool given the chemical readings and the situation? What specific chemicals would you use and why? How much? How often? How would you test the chemicals? With what kind of kit would you use? This is a 17k gallon pool with a cartridge filter. Please give details because pool owners who find themselves in this terrible situation need more information than what was offered in the comment.
+Denim Herbert Thanks for the comment. My intent was to have him explain himself a little better. A young couple is having a birthday pool party for their 1 year old. Dad goes outside and sees a green pool, panics, and is told simply to "shock it, clean it, then swim in it". Older couple saves up for 30 years to buy their dream house with a pool. 6 months later the pool goes green. Husband panics and is told to "shock it, clean it, then swim in it". Mark assumes pool owners know what to do. Unfortunately, many of them are not correctly taught the basics and troubleshooting so comments such as his leave too much to be desired.
Hey Mark. What's up????? The Rio Olympic pool people took your advice they SHOCKED IT, cleaned it, annnnnnnnnnnd. Can you tell me what happened? Probably why pool owners listen to Robert and not you.
all they needed was an algaecide. the don't use chlorine pools, so they didn't shock it. they would've used an oxidiser which would not help. it's rio, what did you expect?
How come you people that do all these videos on clearing up pool water don't just tell the people The simple truth. You're going to use it aqua check your check your water yourself. Find out where your levels are and what you need to mix. Usually you going to dump in a bunch of chlorine whatever amount as needed. Then you going to use pH reducer especially if you're alkalinity is high. There is no such thing as alkalinity reducer only increase! When you bring on your pH you will also have to bring it back up with pH increaser. As for the LG the green use algicide. Make sure your chlorinator is properly filled make sure your filter is back washed properly! I'm not going on with the shit forever. Once your water is clear and you left your pool one filter the new vacuum it slowly so you'll stir up all the shit. Once you're done backwash the filter or you can also vacuum on backwash. Make sure to shut off your main drain and only leave the skimmer. You have a lot better suction if it's all coming from one area
Great video. Most vids say nothing about the stabilizer level. Finally a guy who knows why a pool turns green in the first place.
I tell people that the CYA is one of the most important parts of pool care. pH and TA... little acid here and bicarb there, and bing-bang-boom you're done. But the CYA, either too high or low, will render your chlorine less effective. When it's less effective there's little to no sanitizer in the pool. When there's no sanitizer you're going to get algae regardless of whether the pH and TA are in line.
too complicated.....just go with an Irish / St Patricks Day type theme all Summer long.......serve green beer, get a lot of green decorations and green lawn furniture... invite the friends over....
Gary Vale
Thank you so much for your videos. I'm from Australia and have had our pool about 20 years. I have been trying to get our green pool clear since October 2016 (6 months) and have spent about $1000 doing so on various products from our pool shop, including replacing sand in our filter with a new glass product. Our summer had continual intense heat up around 46 degrees Celsius and we were only able to use the pool about 3 times. Last week I followed your video instructions and this week we have a sparkling pool! Thank you!!😎 The difference was the initial 9 litres of chlorine at once; brushing down the sides when adding chlorine; ands backwashing 2 to 3 times everyday until the water cleared. Simple steps that even this mere female could understand. Once again thank you.
Just subscribed! Total pool novice now my friends are calling me asking about pool questions after I took mine from green/black to crystal clear with my stabilizer over 150. Thanks
What does “the cyanuric acid is 7% of the chlorine” mean? 1:56
great video and explanations, I will use you information to better care of my pool.
Good video. You did a good job.
My pool was exactly this one....CYA 300...drained and refilled took 3 days...back to the light green...balanced chemicals,now use only chlorine and muriatic acid..keep an eye on alkalinity..hardness which are both easier to keep steady...also you must brush and vacuum regularly ..2-3 times per week....this video is right on....maybe I said that before🤷🏻♂️
Thank you so much for the informational video! This gives us a place to start with our green pool! We can't thank you enough for the time you spent taking and posting these!
2:08 You say a FC of 7-8 is unswimmable. I disagree, with that much CYA, most of the chlorine will be bound to the CYA so it will be just as comfortable as a pool with 2 FC and 30 CYA. I also think it's better to pure in liquid additives in front of a return jet for better mixing without creating a high concentration in a small area.
enjoyed your video! our filter gave out and it took us a bit if time to install the new one..so our 22'round 12000 gal.pool.went an entire week with no filtration or chemicals...when we came out it was super green. ..we brushed it and turned even greener. we added 3 pounds of power powder chlorine and it turned a light cloudy teal..what would you suggest at this point?
I would just throw a few gallons of shock in it run the filter and be done.. The sun and algae brings the chlorine levels back down and will become maintainable. Ive brought worse condition water back from the dead, almost black water.. water is expensive also. Just filter and backwash constantly and keep the chlorine levels higher in the beginning. Ive even used cheap dollar store bleach AKA cheap shock chlorine.When it becomes clear start vacuuming and scrubbing and then if the alkalinity needs adjusting then deal with that. been doing it for years on the cheap..My old man used to work in water treatment for over two decades treating drinking water he showed me this years ago and has never failed me yet.
kev31779 Sounds good, but one thing that was not mentioned in the comment was the high CYA. FC needs to be 7.5% of the CYA. As that rises through the use of trichor tabs the FC must also increase to keep the 7.5% relationship. In this pool's case the owner would need to run the FC at 7 - ppm just for it to be effective. That's alot of chlorine and alot of shocking the pool. What about the filter? This is a cartridge filter. What if it has more than 2000 filter hours on it? That wasn't mentioned as well. What if a pool owners has a DE filter and grids with holes? Does they need to be replaced? You will NEVER clear a pool with a dirty filter.That was also not mentioned in the comment. And much more.
If it was that easy then thousands of pool owners wouldn't be spending $500 - $1000 trying to clear up their pools. The pool store says "shock" and filter" but most of the time it's not that simple. It's not "sock and filter and be done". When I walk away from a pool it's clear AND balanced AND the filter is running perfectly.
Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide To me its never been that complex, your over thinking it for the common pool owner that knows nothing and replying with high end terms and what ifs to put them down when their method works for them. Im not a pool expert but a common pool owner that likes to keep it simple. Not run to the pool store and repeat tests all day. Ive always just did what i said and used my DE filter and cleaned the fingers off if the algae was that bad. Then added fresh DE and filter. Then balanced the PH after the pool was clear. It only takes one afternoon. Every situation is different but there is always more than one was to skin a cat. I am just trying to show here that this may be a bit confusing for the average person. The tests at the pool store do not tell you why the pool is green and algae amounts only water chems. They will always say to me "SHOCK the hell out or it".
+kev31779 Shock the hell out of it and add algaecide. Then add floc to help the dead algae settle out, then vacuum up the massacre of dead algae lying at the bottom of the pool. Wait a week or so for the ph to level back out after the shocking, balance if necessary :)
This is how I have always done it. Could turn a swamp crystal clear.
+Richard Smith Again, that sounds good but much is missing. What about the filtration system? What if the CYA was too low or high? What about the pH/chlorine relationship? Why did the pool go green to begin with? Green doesn't = green doesn't = green. There's not a one size fits all approach to clearing up pools. What if one pool owner has well water and another is on city water? Yes you can shock the pool until the FC is 50ppm and allow it to filter. The water may "clear up" but the reason the pool went green was never addressed. The water will still be unbalanced. If the reason is not known and fixed, as the sun rises and sets, the pool will again go green and the pool owner will be right back in the same situation in about 1 month.
Kev31779 b
I clean the pool first and filter and dumped 2 jugs of liquid chlorine 2.5. I let the filter run for 8-10 hours. It cleared up in 2 days! That's what I did coming back home from vacation.
Did you watch the video? He is lowering the CYA level.
What a sad day for me. I finally got my first client but they just happen to have a green pool after being turned off for about two months because of Hurricane Maria. But watching this video... im way over my head.
You can do it when you have the right info. I cleared up a green pool in 5 days after Irma hit. th-cam.com/video/Dpy-bQ_Oxg4/w-d-xo.html
What we're dealing with are easy 1st grade laws of pool chemistry that are applicable everywhere so you can have the exact same results each time.
I really got learn my pool chemistry. Do u have a video for that? Thanks so much.
I have individual videos about chlorine, pH, etc.. but not one video that covers everything you need to know. For that, I have eBooks and phone consults that answer all of your questions.
Shock the hell out of it and when the pressure gets too high clean the filter. Draining is a waste of time. My pool never sees anything but chlorine, and the only problem I have is algae starting to appear when the level is too low. I test the water by simply putting a few drops of #1 right into the water. It's as simple as that. I used to buy into all this chemical testing/balancing, and taking samples to the supply store. Not any more. They are there to take your money.
The CYA is too high as he stated in the video. You must remove water to reduce CYA level. Too much CYA causes chlorine to be ineffective.
Yeah? Well looks like my "ineffective" chlorine is doing a pretty good job at keeping the water algae free and crystal clear. On top of that, no more red/burning eyes and other unpleasant biological effects. Apparently, I don't need chemistry/science either!
Hey pool guy, i just bought a home that has a pool but hasn't been used in about 8 months. The water is disgusting, brown and cloudy with all kinds of frogs and tadpoles and whatever else is in it. What do I do to get it back in shape?
I'd like to have your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers:
Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper). Hopefully you watched the video and the chemical numbers I gave. They told me the course of action to take and your chem numbers will tell you.
Without these numbers I'm just guessing at what the problem is. Get back to me with the chemical numbers and I'm sure I can help. I also do phone consultations for a donation of your choice.
www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-consultation.html
Dear pool guy, I have a pool that I have taken good care of. But recently it turned green. We vacuumed it put shock in and green to clean in. and we cleaned the filters to. We have checked the ph levels and everything else and there all fine!! any help?
First, I'd like to have your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers:
Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster.
Hopefully you've seen the entire video series and how I am constantly taking the chemical reading. These dictate how I attack the green algae problem. And also in this video:
How To Clear Up Cloudy Swimming Pool Water
I believe Green to Clean is Disodiumsalt of ethylenediaminetetraaceticaciddihydratediammoniumsulfate. This is a fancy word for adding ammonia. Using ammonia to kill algae is a little tricky.
Without these numbers I'm just guessing at what the problem is. Get back to me with the chemical numbers and I'm sure I can help.
Robert
Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide Hello, I have recently drained my pool and it has turned VERY GREEN. Me and my family are very nervous about the upcoming summer months and we are wondering if you can help us out. Please message me about this ASAP. Best regard's Elijah D.
Hi again. I see that you had posted a similar issue back in 2014. The same advice is I'll need to have your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers:
Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster. Readings such as "fine" really don't help. Take a sample of pool water to your local pool store to get the numbers then email back.
Green To Clean is basically ammonia and is useless. What you need to do is to superchlorinate the pool with liquid chlorine but I'll need the chemical numbers before that happens. If you want a personal consultation I can do that as well. All your questions will be answered. I have nothing to sell you so you know I'm not bias.
Pool Consultation
OK then i will give them to you tomorrow.
I have to do the same to a few of my chlorine pools I service, CYA are all 70-100 range
Phosphate remover, clarifier, and shock; then vacuum and backwash several times. Neglect causes a lot of problems.
Good video. Just to clarify one thing you said, at high stabilizer levels (CYA) you need higher chlorine levels for the same algae fighting effectiveness. With your pool at a level of 90-100 you would need a minimum chlorine level of about 7ppm to be effective. It is still safe to swim in a pool with this level because the excess chlorine is tied up with the stabilizer, hence the reason why you need so much chlorine to begin with. The real problem is that it becomes cost prohibitive to keep using that much chlorine. At higher level, more chlorine is lost each day to cleaning and to the effects of sunlight. Also just so viewers know, CYA is continually added into the water by the chlorine pucks.
Thanks for the post. The high CYA is the reason I did a partial drain and refill. At the 1:55 mark I start talking about the relationship between CYA and chlorine and mention that a pool with CYA of 90 - 100ppm will need to have the CL at 7 - 8ppm to be effective. I agree it's very cost prohibitive to keep a pool's CL at 7 - 8ppm. This pool's CYA was 100ppm but the pool owner tried to keep the CL at 2 which (then she gave up completely) causes the CL to be very ineffective. I've also made videos on the danger of overuse of chlorine tabs, use and shocking with stabilized Dichlor chlorine. Hope this clarifies it and clears up any misconceptions.
Solution: Stop using pucks and switch to bleach.
Good job, man ~ 'preciate the input.
Very thankful of your video.
Vilma Pegg Sex?
Wow, u came ar a wrong site! Go hunt somewhere else. This site is for decent people.😊
Who said you were decent... Look at your grammar...
nicely done
why didnt ya just take the lid off the filter case? thats what I do lolol its alot faster my man
How often should I empty my pool, once a year? Please recommend
moises saldivar It really depends on the pool and how many total dissolved solids (TDS) are in the pool. I cleared up and made a video of a pool that sat for nearly 9 months. The filter was off the entire time but I didn't empty the pool, just cleared it up. Some people will tell you to drain and refill when the TDS gets to 1500ppm or greater. Others may say 1000ppm. There's really no way to figure out what exactly comprises the TDS. My general rule is this: Unless there's some contamination or safety issue such as sewage, flood water, large dead rotting animal, etc... the water should be alright to clear up. Many pool owners that I knew in Arizona would drain and refill every 3 - 5 years and it worked well for them. Once per year as maintenance is generally not needed.
Nice job on the video.
HomeOwnerRepair Thanks. It was about the 500th pool I've cleared up but the first time I recorded it. Series was a bit too long but after clearing up a few more I've learned what to do and managed to get them down to a reasonable length.
Great job. I came to know, does green water harm our skin?
I never prime my pump. It's strong enough to draw the water. I also don't bleed the filter. It completely purges automatically.
Hello Robert. Great series of videos. Just wanted to know how much would the green algae in the pool throw off the CYA reading, in your opinion? I'm fixing a pool that's had no maintenance for a year and a half. Six months ago someone tried to clear up the algae but couldn't because they didn't discover the air leak at the union at the pump so the pump never primed. Pulled about 25 gallons of leaves out of the pool so far. Dissolved solids are only 500 out of 2500. Chlorine is at 0. Also, what do you think about Bio-Active 14430 Cyanuric Acid Reducer? Water restrictions where I Live and the local pool store said the CYA level was about 105. Thanks!
+Kevin O Great question Kevin. Algae won't throw the CYA off, per se. It's the FC to CYA relationship that gets thrown off thus allowing algae to grow. Your TDS are fine. Bio-Active, as you know, is a CYA reducer. But here's the catch: you must keep using it or the CYA will go back to its original level. It's about $50 for 8 oz. that last time I checked. And I was none to impressed with their customer service. The guy i talked to gave me a bunch of Yeps and Mmmm Hmmms. After 10 questions he FINALLY said you need to keep using it. BA, long term solution, probably not. It's best to talk to your customers or other pool owners about the danger of using stabilized chlorine for weekly maintenance and weekly shocking.
+Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide. The local pool store (Leslie's) said the water should be crystal clear before doing a CYA test as not to skew the results. Didn't think it would make that much difference. Only other reading that's problematic (besides FC, TC and CYA) is the pH of 8. I'll fix that before shock with some muriatic acid. You quoted the rep for Bio-Active said one would need to keep using their product or the CYA will rise. This is only when using stabilized chlorine, correct?
+Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide. Plus i'll dilute the pool water sample with 50% distilled water to get a more accurate reading since it can only be tested for a CYA of 100.
+Kevin O For the water to be crystal clear the algae must first be killed and filtered out. That will use up alot of chlorine to then realize you'll need to do a partial drain and refill to lower the CYA. All that chlorine literally just went down the drain. This pool was not clear when I took the tests, nor the hundreds of other pools I've cleared up. You must take the tests to determine the course of action to take. If you think about the logic the pool store employee is using, then you'd first clear up the pool to take the tests to determine how to clear up the pool that you just cleared up. You can also take a sample of water from the air bleeder valve. That water will also give you an accurate sample. For the Bio-Active, yes, this is when stabilized chlorine is being used. Either dichlor/trichlor granular or trichlor tabs. The other forms of chlorine, liquid and cal hypo, are not stabilized. Never use dichlor or trichlor granular for weekly chlorination or shocking. This is why so many pool's CYA goes through the roof so quickly because pool store employees tell the customers to use it on a weekly basis.
Hi Robert,
Thank you for all the videos, they are very informative.
I have an approx 44000 gallon pool which has been very green for about 1.5 months now. I have spent alot of money on chemicals at this point and recently got a water chemistry done.
FAC 3
TAC3
CH 250
CYA 90
TA 90
PH 7.6
TDS 1000
and that is after using green to clean and shocking it with the recommended shock.
since after the test, i have drained about a feet of water, have been running the pump 24 hrs, have installed new cartridge filters-- all with no result. the water chemistry remains favorable.
last night i shocked it again with 1 lbs of HDX trichloro shock (1 lb treats 20000) and its about 14 hrs since the schock. this morning, disheartened to see no improvement at all.
please help.
+khando ma 15 gallons of liquid chlorine, dont read the recommended doses on the bags you will never get anywhere!
+khando ma Hello and sorry for the delay. The comment never showed up until now. Green to Clean, and I'll assume it's Coral Seas, is Disodiumsalt of ethylenediaminetetraaceticaciddihydratediammoniumsulfate. Yep, big word but basically you're trying to kill the algae using ammonia. That's not gonna work. And the HDX Trichlor simply added to the problem. It's stabilized chlorine and your CYA is already at 90ppm which is out of the proper range of 30 - 50ppm. You're going to need to do a partial drain and refill to get the CYA to 30ppm then work from there. Unfortunately there's no easy fix for what happened. Remember my eBooks and I'm also available for personal consults as well.
Hello Robert I was watching ur videos on the nasty pool the one where was over 2 thousand pounds of algae, and I was trying to find ur ebook that u was talking about buy didn't have any luck getting hold of it.
My pool has a lot of algae but not as bad as the one on ur video but I need ur step by step guide. Please send me ur email address or a link so I can get the ebook to take care my problem please.
Thank U
Warren Middleton
Hi Warren. You can go to my site and get the eBooks there. Links are below. While you're there check out the testimony page. I've just added a few more before and after pics that are amazing. You can also go on the "Contact Me" page that's found in the navbar on the left side. Thanks and have a great swimming season.
www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook.html
www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/how-to-clear-up-a-green-pool-eBook.html
www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html
I wonder what you do during the winter 😐
I prefer to change the new fresh water for the cost effective against man hour;power consume;chemical
The water had to be changed due to the high CYA. Once that was decreased to the right level is was easy to clear up with the right amount of chemicals to do the job.
Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guid
Victor Lim w fdAAAdas
It costed us 1500 bucks to fill our pool i cant imagine having to pay that again to fill it back up. Fire department "we dont do that anymore"
benshivd nope, we pay for water as well
Hello sir, I meant to bring out that it is safe to swim in a pool at up to 10ppm,7-8ppm will be fine to swim in
+Zachary Kim
You talking chlorine? Max 4mg/L free
Were so confused and overwhelmed with our pool whole situation. Our pool is so green and nasty. It looks more like a swamp than a pool. I need some guidance!!!!
Hi Isabel. Clearing a pool is incredibly easy to do. I have many resources available on my website that can be found here: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html
I would really encourage you to look that page over before spending one more dime in the pool store. I'm always here to help. Thanks and have a great day.
@@cleanpoolspa-ultimateswimm6373
Ok I'm trying to understand your videos. We just had our pool drained last Saturday and already its green again!!!! We paid $700.00 ...How much would you charge us to teach us how to care for our own pool. I think this new pool man is taking advantage. I truly hope not but why would our pool turn green again. After having it drained, replaced the filters, and replaced the filter manifold.
@@izzyQuezada70 Hi Isabel. Please don't pay the guy one more dime. You can clear up a 20k gallon pool 15x over for $700 in simple chemicals. I have a flat fee of $45 for a 1 hour phone consultation and I'll also throw in my eBook Clear Blue Pool that I can easily email to you. You'll learn exactly how to clear up and take care of your pool and you'll be amazed just how incredibly easy it is. I absolutely promise you that. You'll already get another eBook Solutions To Common Pool Water Problems with your consult, but I'll add in the other one for free as well. Here's the link: payhip.com/b/YO5R
@@cleanpoolspa-ultimateswimm6373 Ok I'm going to talk to my husband. He's asleep since he works graveyard . But I definitely would like my husband to speak to you so he can learn. Then teach me thank you so much! Too bad we already spent the $700.00.
Is there any way possible if you can come to our house and teach us??? My husband's next days off are this Sunday and Monday. But if not then I'll have my husband have that phone call with you .
@@izzyQuezada70 If you're near me, then yes, but that's another rate. If a phone call works, then we can do that. And under no circumstances put one more drop of anything in the pool until we talk. I work from home so my schedule is flexible. Hope to hear from you soon.
hello, I was just wondering if there is any way I can get my pool back to clear without taking out all of the water (because that's what the pool store told me to do ) is there any way I can get it clear without doing that.
There are only a few reasons why a pool would need to be drained. High CYA is one of them. Post a full set of chemical numbers and we'll see what's going on.
salt 1100
CH 80
TA 200
PH 8
ACID 16
and everything else is 0
When you say acid does that mean cyanuric acid/CYA? If it does and it's that low then you don't need to drain your pool. You're actually in good shape
its the acid demand thats what the acid is the CYA is low 0
For this you don't need to drain your pool. With the small amount of info I have it's difficult to give you many details. the first thing is to increase the CYA to 30ppm using liquid CYA and reduce the pH to 7.0. Keep filtering and use liquid chlorine to bring the FC up to 12 - 15ppm. Clearing a pool is a process. It also depends on your filtration system, whether a DE, cartridge, or sand. Then there's well water with metals or city water with no metals.
When you drain the pool do you need to sink pumps ? So the pool doesn't float and crack?
You can use either a mulitport valve if the system has one, or use a submersible pump which is safer to use. You can drain from the deep end and fill at the shallow end. This will maintain the water level reducing the chances of any collateral damage. You may get some overlap with draining some fresh water but the cost/benefit ratio is good.
Where the pool is located and the ground, water level there will determine the chances of the pool popping up out of the ground or cracking. My sister has a pool company on the East Coast of Georgia and when renovations call for draining a pool, I have seen them drill holes in the bottom of the pool to relieve pressure, then pump it out as they work. If the pressure is bad, when they do so, it looks like a geyser going off! Draining a pool is serious business. If it has a liner, you take a chance of it drying out once it is drained. When you refill, it may split. I'm not a pro but have been around the business many years.
Thanks for watching and the reply. There is a disclaimer in the description box associated with the procedure.
I drained my own pool several years ago to have it re-plastered. The dumbass pool company drilled out a huge hole in the bottom. After they plastered over it you could see some of the grey from the underlayment they applied. I get to live with it now, but at least it's noticeable probably only to me.
This was literally titled how to clean ta green pool, but your responses drain it that’s not very helpful not everyone’s in a position where they can do that.
This pool required a partial drain and refill. Pools go green for a variety of reasons. Sometimes a partial drain and refill is not needed. Thanks for the comment.
any tips for kiddie pools?
switch to a DE filter and dont shock the pool with stabilized powder. the only times i ever saw high cyanuric levels was improper chems used to shock the pool
All filters have their strengths and drawbacks but DE does filter the best. I'll concede that. The pool owner didn't use stabilized chlorine but she did use trichlor tabs which slowly increased the CYA until it got too high and the pool was in need of a partial drain and refill. Once that was done it was simply a matter of days before the pool was cleared up.
You should leave the filter out, hit it with a lot of chlorine and run the pump until the water is cloudy blue. You should never run algae through a filter like that. Put the filter back in after the water is cloudy blue, run the pump until the water clears then clean the filter again. By the way that single filter system is not near enough for a pool that size. My pool is 18750 gallons and has 4 of those cartridges. Also the cyanuric acid is so high most likely due to those tabs in the chlorinator. They most likely never lose much water / put it back in so they should go to more of an non stabilized chlorine.
What if the acid is too low...what do I do??
Charity S Baking Soda! It will brought PH up. or wait for a week. It will naturally go up.
if you are referring to Cya (cynaric acid or stabalizer) then you can throw in a few chlorine tablets as they are made with 70% chlorine and 30% stabalizer/Cya, once those disolve over 2 - 3 weeks then your Cya should go up 👍
I'm also a pool technician in the city of Houston Texas Olympic Pools and Spas
just so you know I kinda know what I'm talking about with the knowledge of a 20+ year vet lol hope that helps - jacob
+KyungRok Kim baking soda brings up the alkaline, use soda ash for pH inducer
Mines at 180 it's completely green what should I do?
Jorge Uchiha use chakra mate
You do not need to drain the pool in this case. 1 Litre of Fast Flock, 1 Litre or Nil-Phos, 1 Litre of Algecide and 20 litres of liquid pool chlorine. Leave the pump and filter on for 24hrs, return to site and Vacuum to waste. Re-treat pool and it'll be fine in 48hrs. And the home owners dont have to spend a fortune refilling their pool with a high water bill.
+Mark Deocareza A pool owner who finds himself in this particular situation will need to drain and refill to get the CYA to 30ppm which is in the proper range of 30 - 50ppm. There's no other effective way to reduce the CYA. A flocc drops smaller particles to the bottom and makes them larger particles for easier vacuuming. Floccs do nothing to address why a pool goes green or cloudy. It's very easy to maintain a perfect pool without using floccs and clarifiers. Nil-Phos is a phosphate remover which has no bearing on whether a pool goes green. Phosphates are food for algae but are not the only source of food. Chlorine kills the algae when kept at the proper levels. Phosphate levels can be 1ppm or 2000ppm, it doesn't matter when the FC is in line with the CYA to sanitize the pool water. Algaecides have a much slower kill rate than chlorine so it does very little to kill already existing algae. The only algaecide that should ever be used is PolyQuat 60. And all of the dead algae will be in the caught in the filter within 24hrs? No mention of cleaning it or backwashing?
Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide I recommend strongly that you Britt drain your pool start over again without this chemical bull s*** that's f****** cyanide in your pool AKA TRICHLOR CYANAURIC ACID AKA FLOUROSYLIC ACID ALSO CALLED FLOURIDE. This is a deadly poison but we have been putting into our f****** pool system letting our families and our kids swim around unbelievable what they have done just unbelievable go look up on the government website there MSDS on these chemicals they're all related they're all the same deadly poison you can treat your pool with tetraborate borate aka borax 100% natural mineral from Mother Earth these bastards have made money making us sick this takes your immune system and wipes it out it causes cancer tumors excetra excetra look it up the majority of them at least one to own the corporations no this is a toxic chemical if you read about it you can't let fish swimming in it without them dying then you know it's going to affect your body it'll even say killed organisms you are a large organism this is unbelievable and now I've had to spend money money money to get the s*** out of my pools and you think about when you drain it all this toxic chemicals where does it go it goes into the aquifers to go into people's homes so these companies should be have this s*** s*** out of them I'm sick of all of this horrific attack on human health. You have taken what is supposed to be a wonderful experience swimming in a pool and made it one where sickens the body little at a time and if you don't know it better look it up because this is the s*** you're selling
+Sphinx Hutc First off I'm not a "Britt" as your comment states. As I said in my other posts I endorse Borax, but that's only to raise the pH. Many pool owners don't even need a pH increaser due to the outgassing and bubbles created from swimming. The pH rises naturally, not to mention more local water companies are increasing the pH. One cannot simply add Borax and call it good. It takes much more than that. Concerning the chemical makeup of the products you mentioned, here they are: Hexafluorosilicic acid, (H3O) 2SiF 6, is used for cleaving Si-O bonds of silyl ethers. Trichloroisocyanuric acid is C3Cl3N3O3 which is used as a disinfectant in pools. They are different chemical compounds, not an "also know as" or AKA. I'm not aware of any pool product that uses Hexafluorosilicic acid. If you would like to start a TH-cam channel to voice your opinion you can. You don't need my permission to do so. I ask that your comments are made in an intelligent, lucid, and well thought out manner. I've stated that before on several other videos of mine that you've already commented on. I don't sell these products as I've already made known to you. You're also aware that I do a wonderful job at educating pool owners on how to have the best pool at the lowest possible cost and use the least amount of chemicals possible. Please take the time to make videos that are of interest to you instead of leaving vicious attacks on mine. You've already left several of these kinds of comments.
Been doing pool for 16 years here in Florida, you do not drain green pools. Obviously there is no chlorine in this pool, add a couple of gallons of chlorine and acid as need, let run 24hrs and return next day to brush pool and adjust chems and add algecide if needed.
It's great you've been doing pools for so long. And It is agreeable there's no FC in the pool. However, the basic laws of pool chemistry and physics don't agree with your theory. Thanks for watching and have a great day.
some pools have back flush
Hi
Hindi me videos hai kya
The filter and pump setup is the main issue...
OK I am lost. The header says How To Clear Up Green Swimming Pool Water and 1st thing you say to do is drain it? Water is not cheap here due to our way over inflated sewer bills (they claim they will adjust but they do not.) So I can just skip this part right?
The CYA was high. The most effective way to reduce it is a partial drain and refill.
Sorry, but I can´t see all the video, just the start and the end and I do not see something crystal
Leave it green, it's kind of pretty.
Really?
Looks like slime??
inbredagogo disgusting
Do not just drain the water. Vacuum to waste if you can and top up, then adjust your PH then add chlorine, algaecide etc Floc if you have to then vacuum again and you should be good to go in a couple of days. Correct PH is key here.
Thanks for watching. This this comment has already been addressed many times, but the chemistry answer still remains. The pH is one of the parameters but not the most important. The effectiveness of the FC is dependent upon the CYA and pH. Vacuuming to waste cannot be done with a cartridge filter. Algaecides cannot kill algae faster than it reproduces and flocc is not needed.
Thanks Robert
My pool never looked better and I understand the Chem balance that is needed
And did myself thanks to your ebooks and videos best money I spend in a long time thanks again man. Dick
Thanks and congratulations. Keep up the good work and your pool will be perfect all swimming season.
thes best way is to put some plecostomous algae eating fishes they'll enjoy the party
In Texas your pool will turn green if the stabilizer is below 50.
morris333777 Cost wise, you're probably right about wanting to be over 50 in a really sunny location. However, as long as you never allow FC to get below recommended minimum for your CYA level, it should never turn green.
Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide Where could we get that acid and liquid chlorine. I have checked few stores and most of them have the calcium hypochlorite cause it bumps up the PH. I have seen your videos and you are suggesting not to use that if there is algae. Mine one is 12000 gallons pool. All the readings are ok. Running the newly replaced cartridge filter for last 6 days. The water is still cloudy. Did vacuum every day once and clean the cartridge . When I do vacuum, the algae are floating up to the surface the pool turns green. Put at least 15 gallons of shocks, 1 clarifies, baking soda, algecide etc but no sign of improvement.
Pool Tech tip. NEVER EVER put acid or any chemicals on the tile. It'll leave a nasty stain. Once your done with your acid please put wash it off in the water and put it somewhere out of the way that isn't on the tile. >_
You always clearing the same damn pool , that pool is always green
True. It's my neighbor's pool. I clear it up, she let's it go, I clear it up, she let's it go, and the cycle continues. Thanks for watching.
You live in the desert and waste water like that?
You must remove water to lower the CYA level in the pool. Damn their are some truly ignorant (about pools) people in the comments here.
Green pool Green pool Green pool Green pool
My pool was worse that this one.I did put 10 cups of granulated Chlorine and run the pump for 6 hours and then clean the filter and let the pump run for another 2 hours .
You do not need to drain this pool. All you need is GREEN TO CLEAN WITH SHOCK BAGS LIKE POWER POWDER PLUS ALL SOLD AT LESLIE'S!!! The GREEN TO CLEAN WILL CLEAN IT UP WITHIN 36HRS!!
The reply to clearing up this pool has already been given. I can certainly see why you would think using ammonium sulfate (Green To Clean) would be beneficial. however, the laws of pool chemistry and simple physics do not agree with your theory. These laws were applied resulting in a perfectly clear and balanced pool. Thanks for watching.
Long video to show what you need to clean
Yep, I did when I first started making videos. But now they're well produced, shorter, and much better editing. Thanks for watching.
How To Clear Up Green Swimming Pool Water Pt. 1/DRAIN IT/ Pt.2 CLEAN IT/ Pt.3 REFILL
Wtf he saying!
I have a green pool
I can certainly help. My website has several resources available which can be found right here: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html
what
;sorry, that's BS. don't drain that water, clean it. 7-8 ppm unswimable? you wouldn't want to swim in it when it is that green either. SHOCK IT, clean it, then swim in it.
Mark Bezinque Thanks for the comment Mark, but BS? Why is it BS? Why wouldn't you do a partial drain and refill? And what is meant by SHOCK IT, clean it? Please give your definition of "SHOCK IT" and "clean it". How would you go about clearing up and balancing this pool given the chemical readings and the situation? What specific chemicals would you use and why? How much? How often? How would you test the chemicals? With what kind of kit would you use? This is a 17k gallon pool with a cartridge filter. Please give details because pool owners who find themselves in this terrible situation need more information than what was offered in the comment.
+Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide the term shock it comes from pool shock, which is chlorine. I suppose this is what he intended.
+Denim Herbert Thanks for the comment. My intent was to have him explain himself a little better. A young couple is having a birthday pool party for their 1 year old. Dad goes outside and sees a green pool, panics, and is told simply to "shock it, clean it, then swim in it". Older couple saves up for 30 years to buy their dream house with a pool. 6 months later the pool goes green. Husband panics and is told to "shock it, clean it, then swim in it". Mark assumes pool owners know what to do. Unfortunately, many of them are not correctly taught the basics and troubleshooting so comments such as his leave too much to be desired.
Hey Mark. What's up????? The Rio Olympic pool people took your advice they SHOCKED IT, cleaned it, annnnnnnnnnnd. Can you tell me what happened? Probably why pool owners listen to Robert and not you.
all they needed was an algaecide. the don't use chlorine pools, so they didn't shock it. they would've used an oxidiser which would not help. it's rio, what did you expect?
How come you people that do all these videos on clearing up pool water don't just tell the people The simple truth. You're going to use it aqua check your check your water yourself. Find out where your levels are and what you need to mix. Usually you going to dump in a bunch of chlorine whatever amount as needed. Then you going to use pH reducer especially if you're alkalinity is high. There is no such thing as alkalinity reducer only increase! When you bring on your pH you will also have to bring it back up with pH increaser. As for the LG the green use algicide. Make sure your chlorinator is properly filled make sure your filter is back washed properly! I'm not going on with the shit forever. Once your water is clear and you left your pool one filter the new vacuum it slowly so you'll stir up all the shit. Once you're done backwash the filter or you can also vacuum on backwash. Make sure to shut off your main drain and only leave the skimmer. You have a lot better suction if it's all coming from one area
+Jimmy Roberts
You may want to read up on what Muriatic Acid & Sodium Bisulfate do to Total Alkalinity.
pH and Alkalinity are 2 different beasts.
He talked too much
Yep, I did when I first started making videos. But now they're well produced, shorter, and much better editing. Thanks for watching.