BMW M4 CRANK BOLT CAPTURE INSTALL ~ Don't Slip your Crank Hub ~ Must Do MOD!!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- I purchased a lightly used BMW M4 COMP 6 Speed and the FIRST Mod on the list was the CRANK BOLT CAPTURE from VTT. This small billet part mounts to the front balancer/pulley and makes sure the crank bolt can't loosen. Theoretically the crank bolt will "never' slip if the factory torque spec is properly maintained. I hope this install video helps and thanks for watching!
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Car: 2018 Bmw M4 Competition 6 Speed Manual (Stock)
VTT Crank bolt capture will fit: M2C, M3, & M4 (S55 Engine)
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At 5:42 when you say “this pulley is now fully accessible”, i wish more mechanic customers could see that and understand the ingenuity it takes to use a space that small and still consider it to be easily accessible. They should see the less accessible spots! ;) Such solid work! 🔥🔥🔥
You made this look so much simpler than all the write-ups online. Others have pulled the fan and all kinds of crap.
Yeah I read all of those articles too and figured there had to be a better way.
Something refreshing about seeing you DIY’ing a car like this. BMW always acted like regular people should “no touchy.”
Man that’s the truth 🙃 European cars can be worked on just like any other vehicle 🛠
Doing mine right now and this video is gold. Mine was 10mm for the crank outer bolts and you have to spin the capture till it orientates and lines up .
when you say, spin the capture plate, you mean spin the entire thing ( harmonic balancer ) with the belt on it? right ? , or only the capture plate, so every time you have to remove the capture plate and reput it on the crank bolt and recheck for alignment ??
let me know please
That's a great suggestion about cleaning the oil off of the hardware before applying locktite. I personally think you should have used blue locktite though. Red is way too strong and unnecessary for this application. They're going to be really hard to remove in the future.
Honestly I’ve never had an issue with removing bolts with red loctite. I try not to use it on small allen head bolts though, for obvious reasons lol
Great video. I had a pinned crank hub installed a bit ago after mine slipped. Ordered one of the CBC kits to throw on for the ultimate crank hub solution and after seeing this I'll definitely just knock it out myself.
Appreciate it! Yeah it can easily be done with jack stands imo.
@@RaztechPowersports I have access to a lift so that's a win. My days of laying under my cars are almost numbered haha
@@TheDudeAbides1776 oh yes indeed! Super easy project then 🏁
Seems redundant. No? A pinned hub should hold a lot of power. How much torque you making?
@The Dude You have built in exactly the right thing, the only true solution.
All these crank bolt solutions are completely useless and make even more problems.
I have never seen a loose Crank Bolt, so why should you people fix a problem which isn‘t there?
Nice looking M3! As far as I understand, it's not the crank hub that slips, but the sprocket for the timing chain that is held in place by the crank hub using friction surfaces. I have not seen any data showing how many cases of this are caused by the hub bolt loosening as compared to the friction surfaces holding the timing chain sprocket from slipping due to too much torque.
A CBC will lock the bolt to the crank hub, but the hub is still free to spin on the crank. Once the hub spins, it'll wind out the bolt, CBC or not. How I see it, it doesn't make any sense to install a CBC without a pinned/keyed/splined crank hub.
The hub won't spin if the crank bolt does not come loose. It is better to pin the hub, good idea if you have the engine open for other work.
Had mine over a year now on full e85 Paul Johnson and still holding
stock crank hub with this added ?
Id like to know the answer to the previous question asked 2
Nice vid, I’ll get this done when my oil cooler skid plate comes in!
Thanks! Just ordered everything for my F87. Should have the parts and planning to be installed next week.
Great video man. I’ll be ordering a CBC and installing it when my warranty is done.
Thanks for watching and yeah it’s just cheap insurance imo.
Coolest car color around
💙💙💙
Great straightforward demonstration.
@@lowfinger Thanks and hopefully it’s helpful to the car community
Thanks for the tutorial. I got 'er done with your help brother!
Yes indeed! Glad it helped. My car is still doing just fine btw
Clean m4 very nice spec !
Thank you sir!
Excellent video!
You have great taste in cars, loving the spec of your BMW! Have you looked into the bottom mounted oil cooler guard?
Appreciate it! Yeah that oil cooler practically has no protection... if I lower the car, I would definitely consider installing the skid plate
@@RaztechPowersports dice que deve de tener suciedat de la carretera
How much power are you putting out on the car and is everything holding up? Thanks for the video. This looks a lot simpler than originally described.
Stage one tune, and I’ve had no issues 👍🏻
Just bought a CBC for my m2 competition. Installing immediately after break in miles haha
Good idea! Should be a similar install 👌🏻
@@RaztechPowersports you made it look really easy so you can actually do this by only removing the skid plates ? Forums made it seem like a headache you made it seem like a breeze
@@hellohunter8583 yessir, only thing I did up top was open the hood for some extra light lol
just spun my hub with that piece of crap installed ! stage 1 93 ots for 600 miles on a 7000mile 2018 car!
@@elpeladodelsambaelpeladode4917 no you didn’t. Shut up
Thought the issue with spinning the hub was the hub bolt loosens allowing the friction plate between the two gear spindles to spin or slip. If the capture stops the bolt from loosening why doesn’t this proactive prevention help? Are there cases where the hub spins when the main hub bolt is still tight ? Thx !!
It’s pretty much black magic. The theory is the crank bolt loses its factory torque spec And allows the crank hub to spin because it is only held onto the Cranks snout with the clutch discs. Yes, terrible design. I figured the crank bolt capture is just cheap insurance. It would be very unlikely for the balancer to spin on the crank if it is properly torqued.
Good idear.
Good video.
Hello wanted to know if it changed the way the car drives or made it more reliable?
Sorry, but people have still slipped it on Stage 2 Tunes. Better save yourself the money and get it done. I'm not touching Stage 2 until I can budget for a full Crankhub replacement.
How many miles are you at and how is it holding up? I bought my M4 a few months ago at 70k miles and luckily it wasn’t tuned. I know that this prevents the bolt from backing out, but i’ve also heard that it can spin from the friction plate wearing out. Any thoughts on that, im not super knowledgeable about it.
Yea people usually do this and the upgraded crank hub. Which is way harder to do but is for sure a must.
How would a friction disc wear out if it doesn't move (which it shouldn't if torqued correctly)? Problem is the way it's torqued when. Anufactured and the bolt backing out.
Thanks for sharing this great video!! Great car!!! Some thoughts, the issue with this crank bolt is, that even the slightest unwinding will allow the sprocket to move. How will this device prevent this as there ar slits in the attachment bolt holes? Thanks! Edward
It’s all about keeping the torque spec correct for the clutch plates to hold the timing gear in place. Yes, it’s not a very good design from Bmw
Edward the torque of the small
Bolts should be plenty to keep a bolt from loosening and turning the capture plate with it. Even if it does manage to loosen and turn the plate it can only move as far as where the slots end .
Keep in mind with enough power the friction disc can still spin. This capture is preventative of slip occurring solely from a bolt loosening which would allow the hub to spin much easier.
will it be able to withstant stage 2?
Great video
Thanks for watching 🤙🏻
So with this you do not need to drill holes and install a non slip aftermarket crankhub? Which many out there selling 4k with installation.
That is the idea. While the other option is more mechanically bulletproof it does cost a lot of money
@@RaztechPowersports I see, thanks for the quick reply.
Hi there! thank you for this but I just wanna ask can I just buy and do a 1 pc unpinned crank hub and a crank bolt capture instead of the pinned crank hub? my set up is a eventuri cold air intake, Akrapovic downpipes, eisenmann race midpipe all the way to the back with no exhaust, and a ECU tuned... will this be sufficient enough and safe? by the way I have a 2021 BMW M2 competition.
Hello from Suwanee GA. I want to do this job soon. Couple questions: What is the exact hex bit used to install new bolts? And does the torque wrench handle itself need to be a certain length for clearance? Thank you
Sorry Dude, but you are creating a problem where there may not be one. Not all S55's have the crank hub problem, and this CRANK BOLT CAPTURE only makes things worse, or creates problems in the first place.
The problem is not that the crankshaft bolt becomes loose, but that the friction disc connection between the two sprockets is lost.
The CRANK BOLT CAPTURE is aluminum, the crank hub and vibration damper and bolts are steel, what do you think will happen when the aluminum of the hub fixes due to varying thermal expansion, the bolts and vibration damper work their way into the aluminum and the vibration damper becomes loose?
A little tip on the side, who still has warranty, should leave the fingers of it, if there are problems here, this is covered by the warranty at BMW. Who has carried out a performance increase should be mandatory, a crank hub with fixed chain pinion install, this is the only real method to solve the problem.
If you understand German it will help you on the youtube channel of H&H Performance Rinteln
very well explained why only this solution is a solution.
I ready Chang crank hub i put rk racing one and car rest factory did you think im fine know ??
Nice color. But, you really need to do the whole crankhub upgrade. Unfortunately, the CBC will only do so much.
Actually it does a lot 😂
Wrong. It prevents the failure of the hub in the first place which means u don't need a new one. If the stock one CANT slip out.
Hello, I have this same bolt capture installed. Is there a way to do your belt service/replacement with it installed since you can no longer get a socket on the crank bolt the rotate and relieve/re-tension the belt
I haven’t had a change the belts yet on the car so I’m not exactly sure.
Hi sir, watched your video, looks easy enough. i just wanted to ask is this capture plate still on your car, is it still working fine, is your car tuned, trying to gather info to see if this works good enough verse changing entire crank hub. Those are costly as well. thanks kev, South africa
Thanks for watching and yes the car is still running fine. It does have a mild tune and I do drive it properly 🏁
Did you consider to lock ur engine and give the crank bolt an extra quarter turn? Before installing the capture?
Yes before the capture, but I wasn’t able to tighten it anymore than it already was.
@@RaztechPowersports I’m going to try tackling this DIY. Thank you so much! This concept is easier than the f80 DIY. Just had a question though, I’ll be doing this in my garage and I’ll be on the floor. Does the crank bolt need to be tightened? I don’t think I’ll be able to have enough room to try and tighten it like you
@@Jethrumi I just tried to tighten it out of curiosity but it didn’t turn at all
@Raztech Powersports Update: I have the VTT crank bolt capture installed last year and been stage 2 map from RK tunes, catless downpipes for about 15k miles now, with no issues on my 2015 m4. Now I've been running full e85 tune with no issues for about 4k miles. So far so good with the capture plate! ( I also asked them to attempt to turn the bolt tighter before putting the capture plate on. They said they put their longest bar on , locked the engine and turned it with all their might before the installation, lol
I'm struggling to see how the radial slots in the new part will prevent the bolt from loosening? Also, if the harmonic balancer isn't pinned to the crank hub, it's all just going to turn together as a unit if the bolt loosens. Pins or keys are the only way to actually tie the crank hub and timing gear to the crankshaft in a way that won't ever creep out of phase.
It’s all about trying to prevent the crank bolt from loosing its factory torque spec. Yes it’s a bit of a gamble
I just ordered this for my F80. Great install. How is it holding up now?
Still holding lol 👌🏻
What mods are you planning? I'm thinking this should be enough for minor power gains? like 200 tq? I don't know much about the S55, i just bought an m4 too so I wanna know everything.
So far I did drop in filters and the stage 1 BM3 tune. Very noticeable power increase 🏁 more vids coming soon
Why the hell do people say to take half the engine apart to install? I’ve had mine downstairs for months dreading the install. Thanks for this video. I might actually install it now. Ha
Great vid thanks! Same here lol, I’ve had mine for a few weeks now and this is the easiest I’ve seen it installed yet. Will try this weekend.
Well, I did try to do it this way but you really have to get a bit lucky with your tools being just the right size and length. I have big hands, too, and just could not work in the confined space available and had to remove the fan in its housing to get the clearance I needed. This is the bit that requires taking quite a bit of stuff out of the engine bay. The fan comes out the bottom but, to release all the mountings and stuff, you need access from the top. You have to remove the intake duct from the left airbox and, to do that, you have to remove the carbon fibre strut. But this is such an easy job. It takes about 10 minutes. It is a pig to get the fan out, though. You have to unclip a couple of hoses that are attached to the fan housing and dismount the auxiliary coolant pump. It's not necessary to disconnect any hoses or drain any coolant but that pump really gets in the way if you leave it connected. You also have to remove the plastic shrouds from around the bottoms of the radiators and I found it easier to drop the oil cooler down as well as the gearbox cooler. These are just held by three bolts and a couple of screws. And then, a lot of wriggling and cursing to get the fan out. I didn't need to get it all the way out. Just low enough to get access to the crank pulley from above. Once it was out of the way, though, fitting the capture plate was easy and took about 15 minutes. Fortunately, the fan went back in much more easily than it came out.
God video thanks. Is the loctite required or just added as extra insurance?
Thanks and I would say both honestly
@@RaztechPowersports thanks mate
@@benedwards2677 not a problem 🛠🤙🏻
I'm not mechanically savvy, but will try this myself. Could you provide any specific instructions (advice) for placing the screwdriver on the flywheel as you torque the crank hub bolt? I don't want to lock the engine as you mentioned that this is possible when tightening the crank bolt. Since you used a breaker bar instead of a torque wrench, does this mean that you don't have to worry about the torque spec and angle? I understand that the torque spec probably wouldn't matter as it is torqued on super tight, but what about the angle?
It was really just more of a test to see if I could get it to move at all. The bolt should be extremely tight, if it not, you already have slipped timing 😞
What mods have you already done after this install? Tuned it?
Hola, gracias por el video. Donde puedo comprar esa pieza? Algun link? Gracias
2019 m2c ready to go stage 2. Should i upgrade the crank hun just for 120-150hp more? I read that bmw fixed the issue after 2016 models but i dnt find more info on that.
Man I’ve gone down the same rabbit whole. Personally I think your fine running stage 2. Just don’t money shift it lol
What is the outro song if you don’t mind me asking ?
Why don't people do this instead of paying 1k$+ for the upgraded crankhub?
How is it holding up ? Thinking about getting mine done
Did a 2nd gear clutch kick rolling burnout yesterday. She’s still holding strong lol
Hey man nice f82 love the spec I was curious are you down pipe and tune and how it last because I’m scared to tune my car was looking in to this Capture bolt just don’t wanna spin the hub
Appprecaite it! So I did the capture first.. the bm3 stage 1 tune and drop in filters. Very happy with the results and no issues so far
Took my car in for service bmw found my bolt capture and gave me a call and I played stupid about it luckily they didn’t void my warranty so now I have to get it installed again 🙄
Wow they unistalled it?? Did they charge you?
@@RaztechPowersports no thank fully not since bmw has to remove any aftermarket part and they already had car teared down so they just saw it and popped it off it’s a bummer I have to make the drive from NorCal back to SoCal to get it installed
how efficient is the CBC vs Crank Hub replacement?? anyone know, thank you!
With the cbc you still have chances and with the crankhub replacement you can sleep well
Hi how long to do the job ? How much was the part thanks
About 2 hours of your taking your time. Hub was $100
Nahh this is not the right way to fix this. The only way to fix it is the crank hub fix,it‘s more expensive but it‘s the only way to fix that problem.
I have a 2015 F80 manual transmission with Active Auto werke catless down pipes paired with the Active single mid pipe ,MST Air intakes, NGK 97506 sparkplugs ,Mhd Ots tune stage 2 560hp retorqued my crank bolt and slapped on the VTT CBC cars pulling great i drive it hard done multiple 130mph pulls im installing a new crank hub when i get pure stage 2 turbos
I’m really indecisive I don’t know if I want to get a crank hub upgrade or the capture plate. 3.5k or 800$ 🤔
For normal use and light mods, I really think the capture is all you need. For a track days or big boost, do the full crank hub fix imo
800 😂. I got my part and labor done for 350
@@shanelevy921 that’s a fair price 🤙🏻🏁
@@RaztechPowersports Debating if this would be enough security to prevent a spun hub. Only planning on doing a stage 1 , catless downpipes, and chargepipes and never use my paddles. Dct transmission. Thoughts appreciated?
@@RaztechPowersports what do you consider light mods? Horsepower, stage 1?
Thanks for the video just one ? Is your card manual or dct
Your welcome and it’s Manual
Have you done the spark plugs on your car that would be a good video?
@@carlosramos368 only have 12k miles so that’s going to be a while before I change the spark plugs
I just subscribe to your channel so I won’t miss any of your videos thanks 🤙🏼
@@carlosramos368 appreciate it 🙏🏻🏁
Instead of the keeper it would probably be better to tack weld the bolt
Ahh, no, it wouldn't be better.
At 9:09 you show how the plate isn’t aligned right with the bolt holes and you then rotated the bolt. How did you do that?
Just pull it off and rotate it 1 notch on the hex bolt head
Hmmm…. That implies that the plate isn’t drilled symmetrically. My 6-hole plate for my 2008 N54 is symmetric so rotating doesn’t work for me. I posted my dilemma and photo here, where others are advising to grind the holes a little, which I may do. Thanks again for your diy!
Post in thread 'VTT N54 Crank Bolt Capture'
www.spoolstreet.com/threads/vtt-n54-crank-bolt-capture.1814/post-112172
@@Jeff-bw5kw So no matter where you rotate the billet aluminum cap, it’s still won’t lineup?
@@Jeff-bw5kw the f8x with S55 motor has 8 bolts whereas the N54 has 6 bolts. You are going to have to rotate the crank bolt a bit for them to line up. :(
Have you looked into the CAE shifter?
I haven’t, I’m pretty with the stock shift as of now
If you had been able to move that crank bolt with that puny little breaker bar your hub would have already spun.
Lol yessir, but figure why now
Would you mind adding a link for the capture plate in the description? Thanks
Congrats! I also have a YMB M4. I make tons of videos on it on my channel. You’ll love it!
Appreciate it and I see you have good taste as well lol 🏁 Cool channel, I subbed 🤙🏻
@@RaztechPowersports haha thanks! And I appreciate that. Just subbed to you as welll
tengo el mismo auto y voy a colocar la misma pieza
How much torque do you apply to the bolts?
25 ftlb
@@RaztechPowersports thanks you! I mean tighten 😅😅😅 regards!!
@@metalprix4601 glad to help 🤙🏻🏁
Hello this lock works with 750hp??
Egh I think most would recommend a new aftermarket crank hub
This does not solve the real problem 😉
The problem is the crank hub itself
Correct it’s a diy helper
Can this work with a stock hub 2?
Yeah this was installed on the stock hub
@RaztechPowersports gintani hub including work is around 4k, if this does the same thing i rather buy this than pay the 4k for peace of mind
Still holding up good?
Yessir. A lot of pulls and downshifts
I changed my boost solenoid 3 times because my 2011 BMW 335i coupe keeps cutting out under full throttle and sometimes it’ll throw me into stupid mode as well. PLEASE HELP HELP HELP. I am sooooo frustrated and overwhelmed with this I had a BMW master tech look at it for months and he couldn’t figure it out!!! Im on MHD Stage 2+ with 93 octane pump gas only with full bolt ons and either a stock turbo or vargas level one or vargas level 2 turbo, the previous owner couldn’t prove to me that he swapped the turbo so I think its stock. GOD HELP ME im so close to ditching this piece of shit and driving it into a wall!!!!
Man sounds like you just need to find the right performance shop to work on it. Probably have a boost leak. Smoke machine will help find the leak if so. I’m assuming you have a obd2 scanner as well?
@@RaztechPowersports Yeah off course these are the codes (in nor order or anything),
2C72 Boost Pressure sensor coastdown pressure too low
2C90 Blow off valve clamped closed
2C7F Boost Pressure multiple fault
34B2 EGS emergency something mode active
28A1, 2C58, 2C85, 2820, 2C7F are also codes that sometimes come up. These are not in a specific order or anything, I did change all 6 ignition coils out for Dinan ones by the way and the spark plugs got swapped like 5k miles ago. Your help would be much appreciated.
U don’t Use new and longer screws, For ur crank hub secure?
And what about the setting of the steeringchain?
It’s comes with the correct hardware
You could've installed the actual crankhub fix while you were at it
Alotttt more work
it's like 20+hrs worth of work to replace the crank hub plus multiple special tools such as cam holders
It can still slip with it installed
but you can install it in your driveway with common hand tools
Capture plate is a waste of money....does not solve the issue. May as well use your money to buy magic beans or set fire to it as that would have the same level of success...
Makes zero difference if your hub is gonna spin it'll rip this right out
Theoretically the entire pulley would have to spin. There retainer is just holding the bolt from back of its OEM torque spec
@@RaztechPowersports but thats not how it works though? I just had my crank hub bolt spin out this weekend had the vargas capture on didn't make a difference at all unfortunately.
@@bimmerfab yeah if the hub slip, it’s going to take out that retainer for sure.. this only helps the bolt from loosing the torque spec. How many miles did you have when it was installed? And of course this isn’t a bulletproof fix, just a bandaid
@@RaztechPowersports had about 2500 miles on my built bottom end at 32 psi on a 6875. The final blow was loading 4 buddies up in the already heavy e93. Looking for a quality pinned or keyed n54 crank hub solution any suggestions?
@@bimmerfab ahhh yeah big boost tends to make them slip.. I’m still torn on which aftermarket hub will be better
Crank bolt capture does not work.
Tons of cases of spun hubs.
It might not even help
Yeah mixed results but it’s worth the $100 bucks imo.
@@RaztechPowersports It gives people a sense of a safety blanket that isn’t really there. Almost all spun crank hubs happen from the friction disc failing. The CBC doesn’t protect you from that.
Spending $100 just to have your crank hub spin and spending a whole lot more potentially on a new engine doesn’t make any sense.
@@cokemachine62590 The friction disc fail because the crank bolt looses it torque. Yes I know there have been cases where the hub slips even with the capture installed. Imo I want to keep bike crank bolt at factory torque spec, and not give it a chance to loosen
@@RaztechPowersports That’s not even true. The friction disc fails because it was only engineered to withstand a specific amount of torque. Terrible design. Telling people incorrect information is irresponsible, especially if they think you know what you’re talking about because you made a video installing a CBC.
A CBC is not a full solution and it definitely shouldn’t be suggested that just because you have a CBC and you’re “just stage 1 or stage 2” you’re immune from a spun hub.
But I’ll let Chris from Vargas (the person that makes the CBC) tell you himself.
“I've communicated there are 2 main causes of SCH. We demonstrate how CBC addresses one of them, the spline lock V2 addresses the other. Make your own decisions and assess your own risk accordingly”
@@cokemachine62590 Geez you’re really passionate about this… I think that that capture better than nothing. That simple. Yes a new crank hub is obviously the 100% fix.
The one part mechanics dont want you to know about
Maybe because it doesn't solve the problem😉