Ik this is an old video but this is the exact series that made my drz rebuild possible. With the help of a buddy, and most importantly, your video instruction was absolutely key in our success. It went flawlessly all things considered and is still running strong to this day, some 3-4 years later.
Yes, that cardboard trick is something I learned from my Father a long time ago. It really helps to make sure the same bolt goes back in the correct hole. Thanks for the comment and for watching. More videos will be coming out soon.
Thanks for posting this! I'm just now pulling my old DRZ apart for a rebuild to the same 'functionality/reliability' parameters. ONE COMMENT: at 6:27....The primary drive gear nut on the right end of the crank is LEFT HAND THREAD
dude, love the cardboard/bolt idea. awesome! May I suggest when pulling the engine, Wash it really well with a good degreaser before tearing it apart, it'll make the rebuild so much more clean for ya..
Hi Tim, I've never seen a total teardown on a bike motor before, so am really interested in following this one. There's plenty of comments on your cardboard templates and in-depth technical knowledge, which I can only echo. Thanks for sharing. Regards from S Africa Clive
Hi Clive, It's good to hear from you again. I'm waiting on some bearings to re-assemble that motor, but it should be soon. In the meantime, I'll have some other work on the DRz posted weekly. I'm glad you like the videos. Thanks for watching.
I'm pretty decent at tear downs.. it's the putting it back together in the same order the hard part lol. Imagine putting all that back together to find an extra large bolt left at the end.
Just the idea to store the screws on carton is worth watching. I've got an DR-Z 400 E myself. I'm looking forward for the whole project. I'm quite sure to learn a lot more. Thank already after 4:03. :)
Hi Tim, I lost track of you for a while (after the KLR), but was just surfing DRZ 400 channels and your rebuild series popped up.....Welcome Back! Regards from S Africa Clive
Love this video, but I wouldn’t mind it being a bit longer, I think it’s easy to miss details if it’s too much sped up sequences, for example if a thread is left hand etc. The card board idea is awesome!, first time I’ve seen that👍👍😊
Great videos, I’m not sure if it’s in another video but I would of liked to see your methods for cleaning up all the gasket surfaces and preparing the engine for reassembly
Brilliantly presented mate 👌 straight to the point and an absolute pleasure to watch as a fellow mechanic. Looking at getting a DRZ and this proves as a great instructional resource! Looking forward to watching the rest of the series 👌 subscribed and thumbs up from me!
Take my hate off. You disassembly the engine like a pro on your garage. addicted video and very well detailed. You are a master.... Thank you for this.
Amazing Videos on the DRZ400 engine (both the tear down & build up), you mentioned removing the fly wheel pulley with and without the tusk tool. If I may ask, how can it be removed if the tusk tool isn't available?
Tim, I used your videos to do the bottom end of my 2002. It came out perfect, your videos really helped! I even used the same Permatex sealer. I would be interested to know how long you have been using that on case halves and how it holds up over time. Personally I have only used the Honda, Yama, Suzuki bond but this was much easier to apply with the brush. Thanks again!
Hi Daniel, thanks for the comment. I'm glad this was helpful. There's certainly nothing wrong with the Honda, Yamaha, and Suzuki Bond products. I have used them and they are good products. They were my choice for motorcycles. Now I prefer the Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket because of the slower drying time and how it does not harden. It has been used and well proven in the aviation market for many years. Thanks for watching.
I am guessing the case splitter also is used to push the crank out. You fast forwarded with no explanation. It would be nice to have seen the top end disassembly. I have a bike here now the owner put too much oil in it and ran it. Not economical for him to pay the motorcycle shop to fix so it is here for a “friend” to fix. I do like the idea of the cardboard patterns for where the bolts all came from. I see you had a tablet you were referring to. Did you buy a manual as a pdf and download it? I see some for sale, but I haven’t had the best of luck doing this.
Nice video. I have a drz400e and am also experiencing a knocking noise. I haven't pulled it apart yet, however there is a noise. I haven't lost any power, and all the transmission appears to work as normal. Are those 2 things I mentioned accustomed to possibly needing this repair?
Awesome video, I really appreciate you taking the time to give such an in-depth video. A couple questions, I am having trouble removing the bolt that holds the swing arm to the engine and frame, I have tried soaking WD40 through for days, and using a store bought lubricator specifically for loosening bolts. Do you have any tricks? Also what manual are you looking at? I plan on going through the engine myself. I have a 2008 DRZ400SM that I am currently trying to restore because I got it for a great price but it was left outside for a while and wasn't taken care of, so I am going over everything! Thanks for any advice, keep up the good work.
Hi Josh, That swing arm bolt can be tough. It also acts as the main/rear motor mount and can be corroded in place. It sounds like you are trying all the right things. The only other "trick" I have is to use a long punch or rod to drive it out. I use a tapered punch that fits inside the threaded end of that bolt (as not to damage the threads) and drive it out. It does help to lift the bike on a jack to take the load off of the rear wheel/swing arm. I hope this helps. Best of luck with your project.
Great video I’m considering do a crank replacement on my bike as well but I have a question can I just open the case and pull the crank without pulling apart the trans gear side? Or do they need to come out to get the crank out? Thanks in advance
In most cases, the crank will always be directly connected to main bearings, gears, and more, and require a complete tear down of the engine to remove. A "top-end" rebuild (piston, rings, etc. ) can be done without much trouble.
Tim2Wheels thanks for the response maybe I am not asking properly so I know I have to open the case covers and all things in the way and actually split the physical case open but then once I get to that point can I just pull out the crank and replace it and leave the other gears that I believe are the trans gearing in,they seem to be off to the side and out of the way?
Ik this is an old video but this is the exact series that made my drz rebuild possible. With the help of a buddy, and most importantly, your video instruction was absolutely key in our success.
It went flawlessly all things considered and is still running strong to this day, some 3-4 years later.
Love the cardboard with the sketch and bolts. Simple, cheap, and effective. Looking forward to the rest of the series.
Yes, that cardboard trick is something I learned from my Father a long time ago. It really helps to make sure the same bolt goes back in the correct hole.
Thanks for the comment and for watching. More videos will be coming out soon.
Glad to see a thumper back on T2W's!
Me too Oxide, I do enjoy working on this type of bike.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
i love your cardboard idea for screws.
Very clever using the cardboard to hold the removed screws! I'll have to adopt that trick. Thanks!
Definitely need to do that aswell! Sadly mixed up the screws from the side parts already :x
One of the better Drz tear down videos
Just want to give you thanks for sharing this series of videos, grettings from Panama.
Thanks for posting this! I'm just now pulling my old DRZ apart for a rebuild to the same 'functionality/reliability' parameters.
ONE COMMENT: at 6:27....The primary drive gear nut on the right end of the crank is LEFT HAND THREAD
Thanks Tim that was great. My son rides a drz so it will be great for the library 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Ian, the drz is a good bike. - Thanks for watching.
dude, love the cardboard/bolt idea. awesome! May I suggest when pulling the engine, Wash it really well with a good degreaser before tearing it apart, it'll make the rebuild so much more clean for ya..
Thanks for the tip and for watching.
Dude...where ya been! Welcome back, my brother!
Just been busy with work and family. Still trying to make videos when possible.
Thanks for the comment and for watching!
One of the best engine build up videos i have ever seen .. now i want do rebuild my engine by myselfe.. Great Mechanic btw.
I love this series I watch it over and over just to get some more and more knowledge 🙏🏽
Hi Tim,
I've never seen a total teardown on a bike motor before, so am really interested in following this one.
There's plenty of comments on your cardboard templates and in-depth technical knowledge, which I can only echo.
Thanks for sharing.
Regards from S Africa
Clive
Hi Clive, It's good to hear from you again. I'm waiting on some bearings to re-assemble that motor, but it should be soon. In the meantime, I'll have some other work on the DRz posted weekly.
I'm glad you like the videos. Thanks for watching.
I'm pretty decent at tear downs.. it's the putting it back together in the same order the hard part lol.
Imagine putting all that back together to find an extra large bolt left at the end.
As you were taking about the side play I was wondering about the heat marks on the crank and then a little subtitle came up 😂😂😂
Just the idea to store the screws on carton is worth watching. I've got an DR-Z 400 E myself. I'm looking forward for the whole project. I'm quite sure to learn a lot more. Thank already after 4:03. :)
Really informative. Thank you!
Thanks Lionel, I'm glad you liked it.
Great Video , very helpful .Thank you
Thanks for the comment Daniel, and thanks for watching.
Fascinating!
Thanks!
This is a wonderful video. Thanks for posting.
Hi Tim, I lost track of you for a while (after the KLR), but was just surfing DRZ 400 channels and your rebuild series popped up.....Welcome Back!
Regards from S Africa
Clive
He aint talking to you Clive!!. (After the KLR) )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
DR-Z400’s are awesome
Love this video, but I wouldn’t mind it being a bit longer, I think it’s easy to miss details if it’s too much sped up sequences, for example if a thread is left hand etc. The card board idea is awesome!, first time I’ve seen that👍👍😊
Awesome video man, thanks for taking the time to explain everything. Plus great video shots and focus ;) keep it up
Great videos, I’m not sure if it’s in another video but I would of liked to see your methods for cleaning up all the gasket surfaces and preparing the engine for reassembly
Brilliantly presented mate 👌 straight to the point and an absolute pleasure to watch as a fellow mechanic. Looking at getting a DRZ and this proves as a great instructional resource! Looking forward to watching the rest of the series 👌 subscribed and thumbs up from me!
Really good, honest, video and very pedagogical. Thanks very much. Love the cardboard too. Genius idea.
enjoyed that and learned a great deal Thanks
Take my hate off. You disassembly the engine like a pro on your garage. addicted video and very well detailed. You are a master.... Thank you for this.
Great set of videos. Well done.
Great tear down, where did you gain all of your experience? Impressive.
Hi Jim, I learned mostly at "the school of hard knocks" :)
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Amazing Videos on the DRZ400 engine (both the tear down & build up), you mentioned removing the fly wheel pulley with and without the tusk tool. If I may ask, how can it be removed if the tusk tool isn't available?
Awesome video, learned a lot!
How many miles was on this motor when it needed the rebuild, do you remember?
Tim, I used your videos to do the bottom end of my 2002. It came out perfect, your videos really helped! I even used the same Permatex sealer. I would be interested to know how long you have been using that on case halves and how it holds up over time. Personally I have only used the Honda, Yama, Suzuki bond but this was much easier to apply with the brush. Thanks again!
Hi Daniel, thanks for the comment. I'm glad this was helpful.
There's certainly nothing wrong with the Honda, Yamaha, and Suzuki Bond products. I have used them and they are good products. They were my choice for motorcycles. Now I prefer the Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket because of the slower drying time and how it does not harden. It has been used and well proven in the aviation market for many years.
Thanks for watching.
Impressive mechanic skills...I can barley change the oil. Nice video, I will learn from you.
wow great video , i need to do basically the same process you have done and your excellent video give me confidence i will succeed .
Great Video. How many K's/Miles, had this motor done?
I am guessing the case splitter also is used to push the crank out. You fast forwarded with no explanation. It would be nice to have seen the top end disassembly. I have a bike here now the owner put too much oil in it and ran it. Not economical for him to pay the motorcycle shop to fix so it is here for a “friend” to fix. I do like the idea of the cardboard patterns for where the bolts all came from. I see you had a tablet you were referring to. Did you buy a manual as a pdf and download it? I see some for sale, but I haven’t had the best of luck doing this.
Nice video. I have a drz400e and am also experiencing a knocking noise. I haven't pulled it apart yet, however there is a noise. I haven't lost any power, and all the transmission appears to work as normal. Are those 2 things I mentioned accustomed to possibly needing this repair?
Gee you really know your stuff👍
Is there an unedited version you can upload? I don’t care if it’s 2 to 4 hours long.
i love ur video, i’m thinking of doing the same
Awesome video, I really appreciate you taking the time to give such an in-depth video. A couple questions, I am having trouble removing the bolt that holds the swing arm to the engine and frame, I have tried soaking WD40 through for days, and using a store bought lubricator specifically for loosening bolts. Do you have any tricks? Also what manual are you looking at? I plan on going through the engine myself. I have a 2008 DRZ400SM that I am currently trying to restore because I got it for a great price but it was left outside for a while and wasn't taken care of, so I am going over everything!
Thanks for any advice, keep up the good work.
Hi Josh,
That swing arm bolt can be tough. It also acts as the main/rear motor mount and can be corroded in place. It sounds like you are trying all the right things. The only other "trick" I have is to use a long punch or rod to drive it out. I use a tapered punch that fits inside the threaded end of that bolt (as not to damage the threads) and drive it out. It does help to lift the bike on a jack to take the load off of the rear wheel/swing arm.
I hope this helps. Best of luck with your project.
@@Tim2Wheels thank you so much! I'll give it a go and let you know how it goes!
had the sam problem. brutal impacts with a big hammer helps :)
How many miles are on this bike? Would be helpful for preventive maintenance or purchasing a used one.
Mine had 15-20.000 Kilometers on a rebuilt engine and a bearing failed, cylinder is fine, but yeah all the balls are in the engine now
Tim the man. The bearing you are referring to is it the crank bearings? I have the same issue
Great video I’m considering do a crank replacement on my bike as well but I have a question can I just open the case and pull the crank without pulling apart the trans gear side? Or do they need to come out to get the crank out? Thanks in advance
In most cases, the crank will always be directly connected to main bearings, gears, and more, and require a complete tear down of the engine to remove. A "top-end" rebuild (piston, rings, etc. ) can be done without much trouble.
Tim2Wheels thanks for the response maybe I am not asking properly so I know I have to open the case covers and all things in the way and actually split the physical case open but then once I get to that point can I just pull out the crank and replace it and leave the other gears that I believe are the trans gearing in,they seem to be off to the side and out of the way?
I like this vid. I am gonna try do mine. If I cant do it I will throw my bike off The Cliffs Of Moher on a Thursday evening. So there))
Hey do you have idea the size of the c/s bearing? Mine just went and I need the dimensions so I can buy another one
I don't. You can try to look up the OEM part # and cross-reference it.
Great idiot proof video, me being said idiot, appreciate your time spent in making this video. Look forward to future videos as I am now subscribed.
Will the tear down be the same for an LTZ 400
How would it be? They are spelt completly differently!!
The top clutch plate doesn’t seem to be in the correct groove? Anyone agree?
Thanks
It looked fine to me.
No,i thank you
Dis color is heat treatment
No it's when they press the pin in they induction heat it