How NOT to do a Coolant Flush and Refill on your Ford Ranger! Expensive mistake!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- Watch until the end to see how I messed up this procedure and it cost me $350 to correct! I'm publishing this video so that you do not make the same mistake.
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This is wild getting more & more involved to do what use to be an easy process 🧐
I too own a 2020 Ford Ranger XLT. FYI, you can replace and fill the coolant WITHOUT a Vacuum Cooling System Filler. Here are the steps, which are copied from a 2019 Ford Ranger Repair Manual, to remove the air trapped in the system after filling the engine coolant:
1. Close the radiator drain valve.
2. Fill the degas bottle (aka coolant reservoir) to the MAX FILL line.
3. Install the degas bottle cap until it contacts the hard stop.
4. Turn the climate control system OFF (very important)
5. Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
6. Turn the engine off and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system
7. Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
8. Turn the engine off and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system.
9. Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to the top of the MAX FILL line on the degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the MIN FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold.
10. Start the engine and let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat is fully open. A fully open thermostat is verified by the cooling fan cycling on at least once.
11. Increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
12. Allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.
13. Turn the engine off for 1 minute.
14. Repeat steps 11 through 13 a total of 10 times to remove any remaining air trapped in the system (very important)
15. Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to the top of the MAX FILL line on the
degas bottle.
16. Install the degas bottle cap until it contacts the hard stop.
17. You are done. All air trapped in the system should be removed if you get here.
Thanks Hugh! Wish I had seen that first!
i just bought a vacuum coolant filler from harbor freight only to come back to the ranger 5g forums and find the same instruction manual say that these steps are used for both the vacuum filler and non-vacuum filler. im looking at the manual right now like wtf isnt the whole point of the filler so you dont have to do these steps? well looks like im gonna look like a d-bag tomorrow revving the snot out of my truck lmao XD
Its 2020! Why would Ford design the coolant system with air traps in it? Most newer cars/trucks are designed to purge air automatically through the expansion bottle. I even had an older Volvo that have a little red plug on the highest coolant hose. You just unscrewed that little plug and any trapped air hissed out.
So, I thought running the water pump with no water can ruin the seal. Will this procedure ruin the water pump seal?
Thank you for posting and humbling yourself!! I was actually thinking of flushing it myself!
Thanks! It wasn't easy, not a huge fan of admitting that I messed up. But if you guys can learn from my mistakes, I'm all for it.
Same happened with my 19 ranger when I replaced the thermostat. I used my code reader to get it out of limp mode then I removed it all again and did a very slow fill with a no spill coolant funnel and burped it as I went along and had no issues that time.
Oh good! I'm glad you were able to avoid an expensive vacuum fill.
I’ve 2020 ford ranger, the coolant reservoir was damage i replace ot it get stuck on limp mode the temp go all the way even you wale up in the morning you start it, do you know the processe to do the vacum?
Awe bummer man!!! That totally totally sucks! I’m glad it all turned out well though. I was about to do this too!
I'm glad you saw my video before you did your own flush!
Thanks you for the video.
I was thinking the same it should be a easy to do I’ve done it for my other older cars, but I don't have a vacuum.
Glad it helped!
Thank you for the heads up on the problem you had. I have to do my Ranger but it's an 1999. It looks like yours is a late model Ranger.
How do you like your 99? I might look for a old Ranger for my son, as I love my 2020!
@@MicahMartinDIY Our daughter bought the 99 new when she graduated from college and moved to S.C. When she got married and started having children they out grew it so I bought it from her. I love the truck it is very dependable but low on power. It's a 4 speed standard with overdrive.
You did not show it in your video but, when you refill, either with the flush or the new coolant, you should have the engine running. That will immediately purge any air in the system and you will then get a true reading. Also, in order to know exactly how much total fluid you need in the system you should measure exactly what volume you take out.
That is good advice Peter! Thank you!
Hope you doin well man! I had the same issue, 2019+ rangers uses a 12v heater core pump. So when the system is empty, you just need to fill it up, and turn the heater on max with the engine running! Eventually the electric pump will take care of the air, keep adding coolant untill is full. I used a simple obd2 scanner and cleared the code (l imp mode)No expensive scanner is needed. Hope this helps!
Thanks for sharing! That is good to know if I ever do this procedure again.
THANX for the heads up!!!
Any time!
I recently subscribed to you, I love all of your ranger mod videos. I’m sorry this happened to you, at least it wasn’t too bad.
Thank you Manuel!
I have the exact same issue as you right now. Gotta take it in for a inspection. I believe I also got a air pocket in the line somewhere
2020 Ranger Lariat
Yup it was an air pocket alright!
Thanks mate top work on showing mistake. Glad you did helped heaps
Glad to help! Thanks Mark!
Thanks man
No problem!
Shop vac might have worked if you knew where the air pocket was and adapt end to one of the hoses. I have an old 2002 ranger where everything is way easier to get to.
Oh man! That's a great idea! I wish I had thought of that!
Maybe that had something to do with the slopped driveway? Maybe?
That is possible!
i think the problem was to much cooling additive, and not enough water. and the problem is the thermostat won't reach enough temperature to open and let the coolant run through the system.
I bought the pre-mixed 50/50 solution.
I just did this on a Mazda CX7 2.3 turbo ford motor and about 15 minutes of revving at 3500 all was well
Oh wow, I tried everything and could not get that air out!
@@MicahMartinDIY It’s happened to me before and I must’ve been a little impatient I know now it could take a while
It didn’t even need changed
I know it didn't, but if it helps someone from getting ripped off at a lube shop, then it was worth it!
How long after the coolant change did you start to notice the truck overheat? I did a flush and replaced the coolant without the vacuum filler cause the harbor freight Maddox one didn't work for me lol. So I filled the degas bottle and ran the truck and filled it again and got like 2 gallons into the system. Still got a gallon left over. I revved the engine for 30 seconds and let it idle for 30 seconds and then shut it off for a minute about 3 times. My degas bottle hasn't moved a whole lot. I took it for like a 15 minute spirited drive and waited for it to start limping but nothing happened. Ford manual says to do the 30, 30, 1 process like 10 times til no air is left. Idk if I even did it right or if it's filled correctly. My pro cal tool says my coolant temp is at 199 but my IAT and ACT (intake and air charge temps) are both at 113F when it's 92F. That seems a little high I hope that doesn't mean the coolant isn't working in the intercooler correctly to cool down the charge being sent to my turbo 😬.
Man, that's a tough call! I guess it's good that it's not in limp mode. I have a feeling that mine was because I had air around the temp sensor. I think you will be okay (hopefully), I'd just keep an eye on the temp and the coolant level. The good thing is that this truck is designed to protect itself, as is eveident in my experience. Good luck!
@@MicahMartinDIY lol it's working fine I'm just a big baby 😆
probably ok coolant has nothing to do with IAT your intercooler is air to air your radiator is air to coolant
@@FORDFCKNRANGER yeah it's been okay so far. No overheating. Also I didn't know the intercooler was air to air vs liquid cooled. I just hit 36.5k miles and my mpg tanked so I replaced my spark plugs and did a crc intake cleaner and dumped a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in my tank. I hope my injectors aren't going bad already. I've suspected fuel dilution since I had less than 1k miles on it. Been dealing with things as they come by.
Which engine does this apply to?
4 cylinder 2.3 Liter
DO NOT USE DISTILLED WATER!!!!!! I understand the desire to eliminate impurities from tap water, but the problem is that when water is distilled, or stripped of it's impurities, the resulting solution is composed of chemically imbalanced Ions, this leaves distilled water Ion hungry, so it will actually strip electrons from the metals in the cooling system, as it attempts to re-balance itself!!!!
I haven't heard about this. What do you use instead?
I had to do this because my radiator decided to form a crack 😬
Oof! That sucks? What do you think caused it?
@Micah Martin well a couple of months ago I just so happen to hit some roofing metal on the interstate and some shingles found their way up by my radiator and rubbed a nice little hole in it
Lmfao that’s what you get for flushing it at 40k instead of waiting to do it at 100k Like Ford specified
Since when is doing maintenance early a bad thing?