I watched this video when you originally posted it. Today thanks to you, 7 months later I had the confidence to pull apart my own chuck to check and clean it prior to putting into use. (In the process of setting up my own lathe; a 25yr long hard worked for dream) I just wanted to say thanks for your videos and your time. I felt that you should know that your sharing has had a real impact positively on someone else in the world. Thanks and peace to yourself and those you care about sir.
Very informative and well thought out. Don't get rid of that chuck. You may, one day, want to make a welding positioner like Keith Fenner uses and that chuck will be ideal for it.
Great Instructional Video Ilike your choices of Lube keep us posted on how the dry lube works out The old chuck you have can be used for holding parts at the drill press Etc. I would never throw one away Thanks for showing these in detail this stuff is new to me
Good video. One suggestion: use a "dead-blow" or brass (or lead) hammer when you tap your chuck parts into place. That way you avoid dings where you are tapping , particularly on the back register of the chuck where it contacts the spindle nose.
haha, I would not know better I think. I am just learning this. Thanks to people like you and mrpete and others I can actually use the lathe I got for free. Keep up the great videos.
Pounding on the chuck key with a Crescent wrench??? Ouch!!! Most of those little chucks have three screws in the back that you remove, then this allows you to take out the three barrels the chuck key fits into. You can then put a piece of brass round bar in the holes where the chuck key barrels go and gently lever the two parts of the chuck apart without needing screwdrivers which can scar the chuck.
Or you can screw the backing plate bolts into their threaded holes in the back of the chuck and use them as jacking screws to part the two halves of the chuck. But if you absolutely have to pound on the chuck key, it is best to use a soft hammer not a Crescent wrench.
like the vidios, keep them coming. on the three jaw, it looks like the jaws are still off, at 36 04 on the vidio the right jaw seems to enter the inner circle before the rest of them, i noticed a 1 stamped on the front of the chuck. i'd sugest puting #1 jaw there and #2 clock wise etc. then recheck runout. i've foud the jaws on my chucks reach the inner circle at the same time. hope this helps with the runout,looks like a nice chuck:-)
ever thought about making a quick jaw opener/closer ? machine an adapter with a square drive to match the chuck keys that you can toss in the cordless drill to buzz out the jaws? i don't know if this is possible or not. just a thought.
Very good video on this subject. I am a journey man machinist retired od 40 years. This chuck is of poor quality shown here, no threads in each jaw. Best quality chucks have threaded jaws, this one moves as to the shoulder on the jaw. Lubrication is not needed, if u need lube use silicone spray of good quality. Let dry and assemble. Good Luck!
No No not grease. The dry lube might work but I always used the lightest oil I could get my hands on (10 W). Grease is a magnet for nasties around a lathe. Generally you are oiling the Ways every day, so I soak my chuck each night before leaving, let the oil penetrate over night and wipe clean before operating in the morning. How many Machinists actually read the manual which came with the chuck? Not many.
The grease is on the chuck gears not the scroll face so it's pretty much sealed in there. Bison and other brand chucks make their own grease specifically for their chucks.
lol how are you with a big brute of a chuck off a herbert no8 preoperative turret lathe for neither love nor money can i get the dame thing apart its seized up solid tried every thing even brute force and heating the outer side to get it to expand.but the backing plate will only move out about 5mm really scratching my head cous there is nothing holding it in place except maybe fifty years of grime... any suggestions???
A good soak in some oil or cleaner will probably help you. A friend of mine found a lathe that had sat in a barn forever. The lathe had a lathe had a threaded spindle and the chuck rusted to it. We tried everything. Wrenches, beating on it, heat, penetrating oil, breaker bars, nothing worked. Finally we removed the spindle and brought it to a company that repairs food service equipment. They have a hot bath parts washer. A good soak in that thing and some penetrating oil and it came off with a nudge from a 2 foot pipe wrench.
timbo7705 google electrolysis rust removal. Ive saved many machines that way. It will go from rust bound clapped out turd to brand new. It doesn't harm any metal that isn't already converted to rust. DONT GET THE POLARITY WRONG!
Take it you got the lathe :-) It just unscrews. If it's been on there forever and a day it may be pretty stuck. Spray some penetrating oil on the back were it meets the spindle and a little in the through-hole where the spindle threads end. Get a nice strap wrench and grab the spindle pulley with that to hold it still and see if it unscrew by hand. If not get an adjustable and hook one of the jaws and give it a tug. Don't go crazy though, just a small jerk to see if it will break free. If that doesn't work chuck something in the jaws, preferably hex stock, but even a piece of sturdy wood will do. Put a wrench on the wood and now you can try with some power to unscrew it. If that doesn't work then more penetrating oil and more time for it to work through. If this still doesn't work you may have to go to more drastic measures, but it should work unless that sucker is really rusted in there. Whatever you do DO NOT use the back gears to lock the spindle on a stuck chuck. That is the most common way they get chipped and broken teeth.
Damn 1 Leave out all the antics and garbage commentary and you have a decent presentation of good subject matter . Maybe it''s just me but all the table thumping and fingering gesturing and hand waving and unnecessary comments are quite irritating . Keep up the good effort because they are interesting despite my peeves ! Stop the table thumping for chrissake !
I was in 100% agreement with you up until....... Halligan 142 NEEDS to go by the old adage: "CUT TO THE CHASE". Where LESS is MORE! He suffers from a common scenario that permeates MOST videos on TH-cam. It is also called "Ego-trip". Oh indeed yes. IE: He has a captive audience with mic in hand. "The world is his and EVERY one will love and laud him; and of course they will latch on to every word he says". Yeah right! Look at the comments above and below. Accolades galore, like he was the greatest thing since sliced bread. Yet he is so very annoying with all of his superfluous comments; not to mention body movements, that NO producer worth his salt would EVER consider him for a professional video. He NEEDS to look at Norm Abram's videos. AKA; "The New Yankee Worshop". Or Peter Parfitt of "The new Brit Workshop". Norm and Peter are masters at "cutting to the chase". Norm is truly void of ANY antics and wasting time on nonsense. He teaches and spellbinds his audience like NO other teacher ever. Yet he teaches MORE in less time than any one I have ever watched. It takes the creator of this video forever to say ANY thing. He also starts many statements that he never completes, by shifting gears in the middle and detours to another subject. VERY annoying. So very sad. But VERY common on TH-cam by MOST who make videos. But I will tell you this Bruce Anacker; that YOU are a 1,000 times worse; when you printed the Lord's name in vain, in your last words. This negated EVERY thing you said. How sad indeed. It was bad enough to say it, but when you took the time to print it, it is flaunting sin in Jesus' face. You will pay dearly for this. Oh indeed you will. Mark me words! May He have mercy on your soul.
your a nutcase pat dee what makes you so perfect that you can go around saying the stuff you say to bad mouth halligan. do you have a channel i dought it. if you dont like what you see here then buzz-off. i happen to really enjoy his videos even though he isint perfect well neither am i. and i know for a fact you aint either.
I watched this video when you originally posted it. Today thanks to you, 7 months later I had the confidence to pull apart my own chuck to check and clean it prior to putting into use. (In the process of setting up my own lathe; a 25yr long hard worked for dream) I just wanted to say thanks for your videos and your time. I felt that you should know that your sharing has had a real impact positively on someone else in the world. Thanks and peace to yourself and those you care about sir.
Very informative and well thought out. Don't get rid of that chuck. You may, one day, want to make a welding positioner like Keith Fenner uses and that chuck will be ideal for it.
Great Instructional Video Ilike your choices of Lube keep us posted on how the dry lube works out The old chuck you have can be used for holding parts at the drill press Etc. I would never throw one away Thanks for showing these in detail this stuff is new to me
Thanks for the tip . Worked well for separating my 1925 3 jaw chuck
Good video. One suggestion: use a "dead-blow" or brass (or lead) hammer when you tap your chuck parts into place. That way you avoid dings where you are tapping , particularly on the back register of the chuck where it contacts the spindle nose.
haha, I would not know better I think. I am just learning this. Thanks to people like you and mrpete and others I can actually use the lathe I got for free.
Keep up the great videos.
Thanks for the video on chuck cleaning.
Pounding on the chuck key with a Crescent wrench??? Ouch!!! Most of those little chucks have three screws in the back that you remove, then this allows you to take out the three barrels the chuck key fits into. You can then put a piece of brass round bar in the holes where the chuck key barrels go and gently lever the two parts of the chuck apart without needing screwdrivers which can scar the chuck.
Now I will be looking for wire rope oil !! I have never heard of it
Or you can screw the backing plate bolts into their threaded holes in the back of the chuck and use them as jacking screws to part the two halves of the chuck. But if you absolutely have to pound on the chuck key, it is best to use a soft hammer not a Crescent wrench.
like the vidios, keep them coming. on the three jaw, it looks like the jaws are still off, at 36 04 on the vidio the right jaw seems to enter the inner circle before the rest of them, i noticed a 1 stamped on the front of the chuck. i'd sugest puting #1 jaw there and #2 clock wise etc. then recheck runout. i've foud the jaws on my chucks reach the inner circle at the same time. hope this helps with the runout,looks like a nice chuck:-)
good stuff
Thanks for this!
ever thought about making a quick jaw opener/closer ? machine an adapter with a square drive to match the chuck keys that you can toss in the cordless drill to buzz out the jaws? i don't know if this is possible or not. just a thought.
I 'm allso fussy about my lube..But i like your idea on the Graphite lube and i'll be trying it next time i take my chucks apart >Good Video
How well has the dry lube been working I can buy it in another brand name I do not like the idea of grease collecting chips or oil slinging all over
For cleaning you used an hvac degreaser. Can I just drop everything into my parts washer and scrub it down?
great video i put heavy oil number 60 its ok ? how about the gears of the lathe what you recommend for lubricant ?
Very good video on this subject. I am a journey man machinist retired od 40 years. This chuck is of poor quality shown here, no threads in each jaw. Best quality chucks have threaded jaws, this one moves as to the shoulder on the jaw. Lubrication is not needed, if u need lube use silicone spray of good quality. Let dry and assemble.
Good Luck!
No No not grease. The dry lube might work but I always used the lightest oil I could get my hands on (10 W). Grease is a magnet for nasties around a lathe. Generally you are oiling the Ways every day, so I soak my chuck each night before leaving, let the oil penetrate over night and wipe clean before operating in the morning. How many Machinists actually read the manual which came with the chuck? Not many.
The grease is on the chuck gears not the scroll face so it's pretty much sealed in there. Bison and other brand chucks make their own grease specifically for their chucks.
👍💐💐💐
your 4 jaw chuck might be a Kalamazoo brand. they are supposed to be the best you can buy
lol how are you with a big brute of a chuck off a herbert no8 preoperative turret lathe for neither love nor money can i get the dame thing apart its seized up solid tried every thing even brute force and heating the outer side to get it to expand.but the backing plate will only move out about 5mm really scratching my head cous there is nothing holding it in place except maybe fifty years of grime... any suggestions???
A good soak in some oil or cleaner will probably help you. A friend of mine found a lathe that had sat in a barn forever. The lathe had a lathe had a threaded spindle and the chuck rusted to it. We tried everything. Wrenches, beating on it, heat, penetrating oil, breaker bars, nothing worked. Finally we removed the spindle and brought it to a company that repairs food service equipment. They have a hot bath parts washer. A good soak in that thing and some penetrating oil and it came off with a nudge from a 2 foot pipe wrench.
timbo7705 google electrolysis rust removal. Ive saved many machines that way. It will go from rust bound clapped out turd to brand new. It doesn't harm any metal that isn't already converted to rust. DONT GET THE POLARITY WRONG!
+timbo7705 mix up a 50/50 mix of acetone and tranny fluid and soak your lathe chuck in that for 2 days and it will help you out.
How do you remove the chuck from a 9 inch south bend lathe ? Sounds pretty basic but couldn't figure it out. Thanks
Ken
Take it you got the lathe :-) It just unscrews. If it's been on there forever and a day it may be pretty stuck. Spray some penetrating oil on the back were it meets the spindle and a little in the through-hole where the spindle threads end. Get a nice strap wrench and grab the spindle pulley with that to hold it still and see if it unscrew by hand. If not get an adjustable and hook one of the jaws and give it a tug. Don't go crazy though, just a small jerk to see if it will break free. If that doesn't work chuck something in the jaws, preferably hex stock, but even a piece of sturdy wood will do. Put a wrench on the wood and now you can try with some power to unscrew it. If that doesn't work then more penetrating oil and more time for it to work through. If this still doesn't work you may have to go to more drastic measures, but it should work unless that sucker is really rusted in there. Whatever you do DO NOT use the back gears to lock the spindle on a stuck chuck. That is the most common way they get chipped and broken teeth.
Damn 1 Leave out all the antics and garbage commentary and you have a decent presentation of good subject matter . Maybe it''s just me but all the table thumping and fingering gesturing and hand waving and unnecessary comments are quite irritating . Keep up the good effort because they are interesting despite my peeves ! Stop the table thumping for chrissake !
I was in 100% agreement with you up until.......
Halligan 142 NEEDS to go by the old adage:
"CUT TO THE CHASE".
Where LESS is MORE! He suffers from a common scenario that permeates MOST videos on TH-cam. It is also called "Ego-trip". Oh indeed yes. IE: He has a captive audience with mic in hand. "The world is his and EVERY one will love and laud him; and of course they will latch on to every word he says". Yeah right!
Look at the comments above and below. Accolades galore, like he was the greatest thing since sliced bread. Yet he is so very annoying with all of his superfluous comments; not to mention body movements, that NO producer worth his salt would EVER consider him for a professional video.
He NEEDS to look at Norm Abram's videos. AKA; "The New Yankee Worshop". Or Peter Parfitt of "The new Brit Workshop". Norm and Peter are masters at "cutting to the chase". Norm is truly void of ANY antics and wasting time on nonsense. He teaches and spellbinds his audience like NO other teacher ever. Yet he teaches MORE in less time than any one I have ever watched. It takes the creator of this video forever to say ANY thing. He also starts many statements that he never completes, by shifting gears in the middle and detours to another subject. VERY annoying. So very sad. But VERY common on TH-cam by MOST who make videos.
But I will tell you this Bruce Anacker; that YOU are a 1,000 times worse; when you printed the Lord's name in vain, in your last words. This negated EVERY thing you said. How sad indeed. It was bad enough to say it, but when you took the time to print it, it is flaunting sin in Jesus' face. You will pay dearly for this. Oh indeed you will. Mark me words!
May He have mercy on your soul.
your a nutcase pat dee what makes you so perfect that you can go around saying the stuff you say to bad mouth halligan. do you have a channel i dought it. if you dont like what you see here then buzz-off. i happen to really enjoy his videos even though he isint perfect well neither am i. and i know for a fact you aint either.