Toyota Sienna Rear Brakes (2011-2021)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- How-to replace rear brake pads on a Toyota Sienna. Very easy way to save yourself a lot of money by doing it yourself!
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Front Brake Pads for Sienna: amzn.to/33xcq7I
Brake Caliper Tool: amzn.to/31rCL6u
Disc Brake Caliper Lube: amzn.to/2Qizsxo
Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3ts48eC
Brakleen Brake Parts Cleaner: amzn.to/3mUsqeR
Amazon Affiliate Links
Toyota Sienna Rear Brakes (2011-2019)
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If you want to pick up any of the tools or brake pads used in this video:
Rear Brake Pads for Sienna: amzn.to/2Qcoycl
Front Brake Pads for Sienna: amzn.to/33xcq7I
Brake Caliper Tool: amzn.to/31rCL6u
Disc Brake Caliper Lube: amzn.to/2Qizsxo
Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3ts48eC
Brakleen Brake Parts Cleaner: amzn.to/3mUsqeR
*Amazon Affiliate Links*
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You should always remove the brake reservoir cover and leave it on top loosely so to reduce the stress on the overall system when pushing in the caliper piston. Second, add a bit of that grease you used on the brake pad ears so that they slide smoothly.
Brake fluid top cover is vented...so to remove and leave on loosely is not required...but yes....be mindful that when you push the caliper pucks back into the caliper....you ARE causing the brake fluid reservoir level to rise...so maybe syphon out a bit first, or drain a bit via a hose from the caliper bleed screw....then refill when done.
I don't understand why some folks are watching this video with poor suggestions that dont hold water. If you have answers, then your brakes should be done for a long time ago. You do not have to open a reservoir it's not chevrolet or ford it's modern style car system is updated from Tine. You thought your house mechanic 😮
The clip that attaches to the hardware is necessary, its not just a wear indicator, another purpose is to fill the gap of the tolerance allowed between the pad and the hardware. If you don’t install the clip, it will make a “click” noise when switching from forward and reverse or from reverse to forward. It’s found in Toyota service manual.
Great job man. Good video & picture angles. Direct & to the point. Much appreciated.
Simon Seavers thanks for the compliment! Glad it was helpful! Please consider subscribing if you haven’t already and check out my other Sienna videos as well. Thanks again!
excellent videos for front and back . Simple to follow and very professional. Thanks for keeping it simple . Good job .
I’m glad they were helpful! Thank you for the compliment! Be sure to check out my other Toyota maintenance videos if you haven’t already! Thank you!
So no one is going to mention the fact that he should of changed his rotor. Those Pads will not last with all of those notches and groves on the rotor. Other than that pretty good video.
You should take them to the auto parts store and have them resurfaced if they are within specs. They also most likely have at least a little bit of warpage that this would eliminate. You should resurface new rotors as well before installing them. And hit those rotor surfaces with a few shots of brake clean and wipe them off with a clean rag or paper towels.
Agreed!
Effort appreciated, but MY ongoing question is where is the best spot to place jack on AWD (front and back) to lift?🤷🏻♂️
You dont have to do that it's within specific margins, plus you can use 180 grit sandpaper to smooth the surface, and brakes will do the rest
Excellent !.... short and to the point !!.....Hint.....you COULD have only removed the BOTTOM 14mm head screw, and SWING up the caliper. Once up, you can push the caliper body back and forth ( direction: in and out into the direction of the car center and back out again)....to see if the upper pin is not locked/corroded, but can move. When all done and re-installed into position.....and the bottom pin is re-inserted....only THEN take out the top pin....lube up...and put back in. The point?---> swing it up like a door on a hinge is easier than taking the whole caliper off.
glad to see you put caliber grease on pins, people often dont do this
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I will gladly subscribe to your channel….I owe it to you….your presentation is very straightforward, very clear….I just hope that I can do it tomorrow just like you…I did my fronts a few months ago and they came out good…tomorrow is the day…thank you again…
I appreciate your kind words! Thank you for watching and subscribing and good luck on your brake job tomorrow I hope it goes smoothly! Come back and let us know how it went. Thanks again!
Please do not use the lubricant in this video. It's a good video, except for the lubricant. The toyota brake system generates more heat than the gel lubricant is designed for. It will gum up the caliper pistons and cause seizing. Need a super high heat lubricant. I think those would be a lithium or silicone based lubricant which the gel is not. Also the pertroleum lube does not play well with the rubber material in the system. Otherwise good job on the video.
First time doing breaks & I have to because I'm broke! On the caliper, what and why are you pushing back with the C clamp? And how do you know if it's done being pushed back? What do you do after you've accomplished this? I need all the info and visuals I can get to do this! Lol! I'm a 62 year old go getter and I'm always up for a challenge! Can't wait to tell my kids, I did it!! With your video it seems pretty simple. My dad taught me how to change my own oil, back before Kwik Kar!! I loved hanging out in the garage with him! We did body &, engine work together on my Nova, painted her, had the seats recovered, etc. Loved it!! I wanted to be an auto mechanic, but my mom said "no daughter of mine is going to be a mechanic"! She enrolled me in typing classes so I could work on the up and coming computers that will be in all offices someday. I wound up marrying an A&P mechanic, who we lost 8 years ago. Thanks, and wish me luck!
Mary Ward this is one of the easiest things to do for maintenance on most cars, you can do it! You are pushing back the piston on the caliper, it will stop when it is fully open you will know. Good luck doing it yourself, please consider subscribing if this video helped you! Thank you!
WHY?.....because the worn brake pads allow the piston to move more forward than you like, and will make it impossible to refit the caliper to the new (THICKER) pads....that are thicker than the worn pads which allowed the piston to come out "more". You want to "push back" the caliper piston to allow space for the thicker (new) pad.
Great video. Thank you. However, what about the very small clips that came with the pads? (not the hardware you mentioned). There was no mention of those clips in your video. I'm a bit worried now.
Just had my brakes done at shop and there is a burning rubber smell and dust all over wheel i took it to another shop and they said it was missing shims and rotors were not filed correctly also said brake job on right was adjusted too tight.do you show the shims in your video and will this be unsafe to drive?
Very well done, thanks for sharing
Thank you for watching and for the compliment! Please consider giving it a thumbs up if you haven’t already! Thank you!
That Permatex lube is not good for rubber. The boot the pin goes through is rubber. It's for metal to metal contact only. It says that on their site. Lots of options but make sure they're ok for rubber. I use 3M Silicone Paste - 3M 08946. Otherwise, great video!
its made for caliber pins? , why wouldnt it be good for rubber
This is not correct. Permatex Disc Brake Caliper Lube instructions specifically state to apply to pins, slides, bushings, pistons, and rubber sleeves and seals.
2018 sienna has Pre-Collision System with Pedestrian Detection, is the same as your video? I saw some clips how to reset electronic actuator in the caliper.
Why does the top sliding pin have a notch at the end of it compared to the bottom pin, which is smooth and does not have a notch ?
I've always been told not to torque lug nuts if vehicle is just supported by jack stands. I hand tighten, then drop car and do final torque in case you push too hard and knock car off stands. Otherwise l liked video that it was direct and not too long.
Do an oil change video for a 3series bmw
straight to the point! I like that !!
You stated there are few were four pieces of hardware per wheel. I have an additional piece of hardware that goes on the new brake pads. It replaces the arc clip on the bottom of each original brake pads. Can you get away with not installing that new component as you did?
If its the small metal arc or loop piece you can get away with not installing it, that piece is made to make contact with the brake rotor when the pad is worn and needing replacement. It is not an essential part but is handy for indicating when your brake pad needs replacing. If you routinely give your vehicle a good look over you would probably notice your brake pads getting low. Thank you for watching, please give this video a thumbs up and consider subscribing if it was helpful! Thank you!
5 Minute Fix it you’re wrong, that clip had another purpose and it’s to fill the gap of the tolerance allowed between the pad and the hardware. If you don’t install the clip, it will make a “click” noise when switching from forward and reverse or from reverse to forward.
You left out the part where you take the caliper bracket off and replace those records with all those grooves 😂
I have 200k on these rotors and they are doing just fine 😎
PSA for rear brakes on an automatic transmission car : Place 2 pairs of tire chocks on front tires.
Make sure your emergency is OFF.
Now you can start
Thanks for the good video. How do you know it is time to change the pad?
I would change it myself if the pad was less than 1/8 of an inch thick.
when u hear noises as you driving from the tire area
Thanks for the video! I’m gonna attempt to do this. But my driveway is sloped...I’ll figure something out. Or can I do it at yours?
Come on over!
any reason you recommend bosch for front and raybestos for back?
No reason, both make decent aftermarket brake pads in my opinion. Thank you for watching!
Very helpful video, Thanks.
I'm glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching and please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven't already! Thank you!
I should been more humbling and watch your video before trying do myself guessing what to do
Well I’m glad you found the video, hopefully you found it helpful! Thanks for watching!
Thanks buddy 👍🏻
Waleed Al-Mahdawi thanks for the compliment please give the video a thumbs up and consider subscribing if this video was helpful! Thank you!
5 Minute Fix it I did buddy , next time make video for front rotor and pads please
I have a 2012 Sienna front drive. Is the rear brake the same as in your video?
That is the same vehicle shown in this video so it should be identical. Thank you for watching and please consider giving the video a thumbs up if you haven’t already. Thank you and be sure to check out my other Sienna maintenance videos!
Thanks. Good video.
Michael Morris I’m glad you found it helpful, thanks for watching and please give it a thumbs up 👍🏻! Thank you.
Good video
Thanks Joshua, Please consider subscribing if you haven’t already and thanks for the support!
How do you torque the top caliper bolt given the lack of clearance?
You have to use a specialized torque wrench or try to gauge it yourself. I know that’s not the best answer but without the tool it’s almost impossible. Thank you for watching.
Wow, great video!!
Thank you for watching! I’m glad it was helpful!
That rotor need turned down or replaced?
Bill Pugh it’s totally dependent
on the individual vehicle, in my case there was plenty of “meat” left on the rotor and it was not pulsing or pulling when braking so there was no need.
I fully agree bill. His new pads will have those grooves in them and squeaking. Not a good video
@@sirsweetness8332 ..won't squeek. Will just will wear in-line with the grooves it meets on the rotor.Not really a "good" thing...but all told not as bad as people make it out to be. Especially if the rotor is true and doesn't pulse.
Any major difference in the process for front brakes?
Very similar process although you would have to look up the correct torque specs for the bolts. I believe I linked the brake pads for the front brakes in the video description as well! Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing if this video was helpful! Thanks again!
@@5MinuteFixit appreciate it!
What about the small clips that came with pads? I noticed you didnt use them. Are those supposed to be installed on both ends?
Those are wear indicators and depending on your preference do not need to be installed.
@@5MinuteFixit I never use them either... They end up being noisy when break dust goes on them making you think that your breaks or getting toast when they are not... To your discretion
Why didn't you change the rotors?
Michel Gauthier I didn’t feel it was necessary, they still had plenty of “meat” left on them and weren’t pulsing at all. Thanks for watching!
i recommend next time u turn ur steering wheel to the left all the way for ease of disassembling and reinstalling
This is the rear brake pad change.
Yea...so you turn it to the right all the way.
@@JayDauglash rear tires don't turn...
Does nit apply to the rear wheels which don't turn and always are "Straight-ahead"......yeah, do what you say for the front wheels which can help access.
Those look like recalled HF jack stands you are using.
Return them
Thanks for looking out, I do appreciate it. The jack stands are from HF but not the ones affected by the recall. Thanks for watching!
I would never put new brakes on rotors that looked like that
Still stopping great 80k miles after this video.
I just came here to see if I needed one of those stupid screw in piston tools you need on older GMs
Nope no need, thank you for watching!
lol crows cawwing
I think you need to step on the brake several times at least 20 than you start the car. Not viceversa
With the car still in park I think you could do this last step in any order. Thanks for watching! Please consider subscribing if this video has helped you out, thanks again!
why ? and did you forget the thin metal shims, or are there none ?
every thing else was ok except you never push fluid backwards in a abs system.
I always crack the bleed screw open when I push the piston back in.
Idk how i bumped into this year old video,but you need new rotors
That’s Northeast winters for you...they are still going strong...no issues at all. Thank you for watching!
@@5MinuteFixit , your brakes will last longer with smoother rotors,and that's a fact........
@@djdev3077 I have never changed a rotor in hundreds of thousands of miles of driving. I make sure to change out my pads well before they get worn so much that the rotors get carved up. But I agree with you here, it looks like those rotors have been grooved up pretty good and could be changed out.
@@djdev3077 As long as you still have smooth braking, any additional pad life you get is not worth the cost of rotors.
22
Yeah. 22mm on mine.
? it is that easy? I just paid $200
Keith Koch yes it is very easy, almost as easy as an oil change. Seriously.
My dealer wanted $350 for rear brakes, just pads!
My wife was quoted $450 last week. $550 for the front brakes that still have half their life left.
This is very doable even for a new DIYer just take your time and make sure you have all the tools.
Just did it in between posts. She brought the van in for a recall repair, but they always try the upsell.
I DID NOT KNOW WHY YOU NOT CHANGE THESE BRAKE ROTORS AT THE SAME TIME?!. IT LOK SO BAD!