It’s also worth mentioning that oil based poly will give your wood an amber tint, whereas water based does not. If you want to keep the natural look of a light wood like birch, DO NOT use oil based poly, it will turn your wood more yellow.
To get that "amber" look. use shellac as your first coat/sanding sealer. Shellac comes in multiple shades of amber. You can also tint the waterborne topcoats, we call it "toner"
Good video, thanks for sharing. As a professional finished carpenter with decades of experience and an semi professional woodworker; I avoid most everything with Minwax on the label. I hardly ever use oil based poly or paint for one reason; because since it takes many hours to "dry" it picks up all kinds of dust, requiring the need to sand each coat. Most water borne film finishes require very little if any sanding between coats. My advise to DYI finishers is to avoid the big box/hardware stores and go to a paint store or better yet a woodworking store and discuss waterborne products with them. Technology has pretty much eliminated the need for most oil and solvent based finishes.
Well, I used oil based and refinished an outdoor lighthouse back in June. It has now turned yellow from the suns UV rays. After researching a bit, I have found out that water based poly's will NOT yellow. Have to try that next time!!
Oil-based is smelly, tends to bubble and can yellow when heavily exposed to sunlight. But if you want a fantastic-looking shine, there's no comparison: oil-based beats water-based hands down.
i just started using water based and to be honest, I have to say that i like it, i like the fast dry time, i like the finish and easy clean up..I also threw it in my old wagner sprayer and sprayed it on my last project for a smooth flawless finish.
I appreciate it, all the pointers, pros and cons, it definitely helps this amateur diy'er feel confident in which one to use. I am a genetic penny pincher, but time is money as they say. Water based drying time being much faster pointedly steers in that direction for me, though it costs a fistful of dollars more. Also, the low smell. I remember trying an oil based drywall texture can... whew, I had to open the windows on a 30 degree day for half a day. But I appreciate the clear pros and cons you point out. And like water based, you did an excellent job in short amount of time. 😄
Before you go bonkers with it, test it on a smaller section. I have had the water based product leave an unwanted white milky film on the surface. Good luck and thanks for the feedback.
What would you use for a kitchen table? The dry time and odor aren’t a factor for me, I’m interested in durability for the liquid and heat it will take over the years
I havent done any extensive durability tests but if I always use oil based for tables. The water based is probably comparable but I use what I know works for me.
Water based for me hands down, oil based yellows over time, water based seems to turn deeper and richer. Plus I like the low odor of water based poly also water based drys faster than oil based. I have a lot of wood in my house all finished in water based poly, the house was built in 1996 and the finish has held up great, as stated earlier it seems to have gotten deeper and richer with time. My sister has a log house all finished with oil based poly, her house was built a few years before mine but her cabinets are starting to get the oil based yellow tint to them.
I own in apartment building in NY, all hardwood floors are oil based polyurethane. Still going strong after 30 years!!!!! I doubt water based poly would even last 6 months.
Remember that there is a Polyacrylic has a Floor finish version and my reasoning is that it has decent durability. I have used it on a beech butcher block counter top for a client. So far, so good and as our host has pointed out the drying time is much quicker with far fewer fumes. And thanks for your video on aerosol can finishes. Yeah, price with much less coverage.
Maybe you say this at the end, but can you layer them? I like the matte finish available on water based but I painted a mural on a wood wall which gets a lot of sun.
you didn’t mention the most significant difference in finish, that OB gives a golden hue whilst WB remains crystal clear. this may be significant to someone finishing, creamy white maple for example. most woods will look very different with/without this golden tint
I live in an apartment with no outdoor space and pilot lights that's why I go with the water base. I actually really like orange shellac but don't use at for the same reason
I have had several people say that I sound like Andy Rooney (which I don't see how). You are the first to mention Tim Conway. I will that that as a compliment :-)
will waterbased PU stick to the glass surface ? I applied it to a glass slide and cured in the oven at 85C for some time then left it outside for two days, then put it in the oven at 85C for two hours and then left it in a vacuum oven at ambient temp and then heated it again at 120 C for two hours. Still it does not seem to be fully dried :( may be the coating is expired ?
That is very strange. I have never applied it to glass but it should still dry without a problem. I'm not sure it's even recommended for use on glass. Just a few thoughts...Maybe you need to stir the contents before you use it? Try it on a scrap piece of wood? Apply it using a thin coat. Water based should dry quickly without heating it.
Help!! I have sanded an entire 20 year old cabin that had all rough sawn lumber. I would like to spray polycrylic or polyurethane, but I can't possibly sand it again... please please NO!!! So which would you suggest as sprayed and not sanded??? I realize it won't be a glass finish,but in more try to seal but still want it to look good. PS as a retiree that left Illinois, I love the license plate art !!! Thanks
Just to be clear, I assume you are planning to spray poly on the inside of the cabin walls? Any water or oil based polyurethane instructions will say that you should lightly sand (then clean) between coats using fine sandpaper. If you can yet away with one coat then you don't need to worry. The problem you may encounter if you don't sand between coats is that the last coat won't stick as well and can peel over time.
Hi, just a quick question. I recently bought a home in WV that needed a partial external refresh so I had the front done in un-sanded hickory using the board and batten pattern along with matching stairs to the sunporch, my new neighbor is doing the work but NOT staining however he suggested polyurethane? I prefer the lighter natural look VS darker stains, do you have any suggestions when the weather is warm enough for drying like most likely spring there in WV?
I'm not sure I understand exactly...If external, polyurethane doesn't offer UV protection so I'm not sure how long that will last. If it is outdoor, I would suggest a Behr product like an outdoor clear sealer.
Great sound effects haha! Please advise when you get a chance, With some sanding prior, 4” in diameter bamboo being the subject material, would you recommend a oil base polyurethane? and would a lacquer sanding sealer be necessary prior to applying polyurethane? Greatly appreciated, thanks!
Hi. Sanding sealer isn't necessary before applying polyurethane. Sealer might give you a smoother finish but I generally just skip a sealer and jump right to poly. If the wood is porous , a sealer might be a good idea.
I finished our table with oil based poly and hated cleanup so much. now making a buffet/hutch with a matching top and considering something that's easier to work with. also, the buffet should see a lot less spills/abuse than the table... hopefully.
I can't find any information on wiping on polyurethane for the poly plastic gun stocks.. I see countless videos for wood and of course would gun stocks but nothing for the plastic gun stocks... does anybody know if water-based or oil-based matters when applying this on plastic and with that asked does does anyone know if I can even do this on plastic?
Here's my opinion. Finished are generally not effective on plastic. Plastic is inherently protected and shiny. I'm not sure why you would want to use a finish. Unless you sand the plastic, any wood finish will not stick to it for very long. I checked many spray finish cans I have and none say they can be used on plastic. You can experiment but unless as I said, you rough up the surface, finishes will not stick. Good luck.
This is great but help....I have been playing with poly for about 3 months (because I cant get it right). How do I prevent micro bubbles on something I need to be totally smooth? I have tried full strength, reduced with miniral spirits. slow move ment, etc. I even tried get the coats down , dry for two weeks and then 3 step polishing like a cars clearcoat...which leaves small scratch lines...disclosure, I am trying to get a glass like finish on a piano black case...Its mirror like for sure , by up real close, you see trash or micro bubbles...HELP...L0L :-)
Well, I have a few suggestions. The easiest is one that I have recently been using very successfully. For the first coat, use a sanding sealer for which I use an unwaxed shellac product they sell at home depot. This coat seals the wood and so the first coat of poly doesn't bubble. very lightly sand the shellac, clean the dust, apply poly. Sand lightly between coats of poly. Wont touch the final coat. Let it dry for a week, then use a brown paper or the back of a piece of sandpaper to rub the surface. This acts like a 5000 grit sandpaper and leaves the final finish pretty smooth. I have tried using a heat gun in the past which pops the bubbles but these pesky little bubbles can show up later. So, try the shellac. Don't get the regular shellac which contains wax. The poly doesn't stick well to wax :-)
hello there i want to use polyurethane to strengthen my polymer clay sculptures. i want to apply as a couple of thin layers before i take a silicon mold and then paint them but i dont know which one to use? oil or water based which one i could spray thru my airbrush kit better and if there is a better solution to toughen up the sculptures than poly what is it?? i know this aint a scultping channel but may be you can give me pointers on the materials :D thnx in advance stay healthy and cheers
I am not the spraying expert but I am fairly certain you can use water based and oil based through the airbrush. Keep in mind that the oil based will have a yellowing effect. That may not matter to you if you are using it for a mold. You can also use aerosol spray cans. I saw one product called "Mod Podge Spray Acrylic Sealer that is Specifically Formulated to Seal Craft Projects, Dries Crystal Clear is Non-Yellowing No-Run and Quick Drying" which looks like it would be good. I guess my concern with the oil based poly is that it might crack or peel over time on the clay. If you only need it for a short time for a mold, then it might not matter to you. Sorry I don't have any more specific help. Tom
@@AlleyPicked i was thinking of using water based for the sole reason that you ve already warned me about.. it dries clear... but i am not sure about how should i handle the water to pu ratio.. cause i will try to advertise the scupltures as a unique one and keep the molded copy for myself :D thats why i need the final polymer clay intact during the molding process as much as possible... i ve not came across that specific sealer here in Istanbul, Turkey, but will be on the look out if i can find it abroad :D thnx for your insightful feedback and time Tom.. much appreciated... i guess 50/50 ratio will be a good "try and see" point :P stay healthy and strong cheers
Very useful video! Just a few more questions about these products: 1. How much ventilation is needed for the oil vs water based if I would be doing this in a basement with a single window and a fan? 2. Which is more protective to things like heat and water? 3. Do you recommend any 2 in 1 products like the polyshades or stain + poly from varathane? 4. Would you recommend minwax or varathane? Thanks
There is literally ZERO comparison in terms of durability between oil and water based polyurethane. I don't know why people even try to compare the two. I own in apartment building in NY, all hardwood floors are oil based polyurethane. Still looking good after 30 years!!! If I used water based polyurethane, I doubt it would even last a year.
If you look at the water poly inside the can, it is white. Depending on what you use it on, the white color can be a little noticeable. Similar to oil based poly which has a slight yellow. Even though the water based says it dries clear, I have noticed a slight milky color also. The only way I think you can avoid this as much as possible is to put it on very thin. Some stain colors are a little more forgiving to the water based whiteness of the poly. I have a feeling other brands will have the same slightly milky results. Try oil based? Good Luck, Tom
You can use oil based over water based. Keep in mind that oil based has a slight yellow tint and will show up on light colors. Always lightly sand the surface before applying a finish on top of a finish.
It's not that Oil based is more durable, it actually is durable. Water based poly vs oil based poly isn't even a comparison when it comes to durability. Especially on floors.
You said you used 20-year old polyurethane. I purchased some from Walmart (water-based) and it is extremely watery with a thick, waxy substance at the bottom. I tried to mix it but am having a hard time. Is it just too old?
Well...since I have only purchased a couple water based poly cans in my lifetime, I may not be the expert but i can tell you that if it does not mix thoroughly and retain a nice consistency, something is wrong. Perhaps the can got too cold or froze in transportation. If you cant mix it evenly after several minutes, I would return it to Walmart and try a different can. You might try pouring off a little water from the top into a plastic container, then mix the can, then add the water slowly back in. Good luck, let me know how it turns out. Tom
I painted my sink with Epoxy Appliance spray paint. Then I applied OIl Based Poly. and it left terrible brush marks (brush that was suggested by a Home depot employee) it looks terrible ! Any suggestions?
It's should have been sprayed on, not brushed. They have people that refinish sinks and bathtub's. The way your doing it would just be for like a small little chip
Hello, thanks. Over Alkyd paint, I'm afraid water base polyurethane will crack the paint, should I use Oil base polyurethane? Or should I dont worry about using water base? Thanks
I think you mean Alkyd paint. A long as the base is dry I think water based will be fine. If you could lightly sand or steel wool the surface before without damaging it, that would be better. Test it on a small part first but I think it should be fine.
I think you mean Alkyd paint. A long as the base is dry I think water based will be fine. If you could lightly sand or steel wool the surface before without damaging it, that would be better. Test it on a small part first but I think it should be fine.
Obviously oil is better but in my case I'm doing inside staircase treads. I don't want to deal with the fumes inside my house. I'd rather do six coats of water based.
Hey Tom, I hope that the quarantine has not been too hard on you. I agree with all of your comments. One of the great things about living in California is that the state makes most of my decisions regarding finishes for me. I don't have to waste time trying to decide what the best finish is. I can spend the time that I've saved watching your cool videos on TH-cam.
Love those sound effects! They were sound effects, weren't they? You didn't smash up half the house throwing those cards away, did you? Is that the next video? Fixing up damage done by flying cards? Cheers Tom!
Water based is far superior. No yellowing of project, no special solvents, no special storage or disposal, and all the other bonuses discussed in the video. GF water based top coat is about as good as it gets and when making projects commercially the time savings can reduce cost or down time. Water based or bust!
You sound like you are working for a company that sells water based poly:-) While you raise valid points, there is one main point really...When it comes to a purely smooth finish, I have yet to see water based beat oil based. I use both often and if I am after the best finish where a slight yellowing won't matter such as on wood stain, I would pick oil based any day of the week. Thanks for your comments.
Great video thanks so much for the info. Also I don't know who needs this, but I'd like to bless anyone since you've blessed me. Jesus christ loves you and gave his life on the cross so we could live and have a relationship with god. All we have to do is recognize our sins and ask for forgiveness and believe in jesus christ his son.
@@jacobkomnath7961 My method has been to clean the brush multiple times with paint thinner. In between cleanings, slap it across my chain link fence. clean and repeat. After a couple hours there is a little stiffness in my brush which I can usually comb out with a wire brush. It's just a goofy method I have been using and seems to keep my brushes in good shape -- at least for awhile.
It’s also worth mentioning that oil based poly will give your wood an amber tint, whereas water based does not. If you want to keep the natural look of a light wood like birch, DO NOT use oil based poly, it will turn your wood more yellow.
I'm using oil on a solidbody guitar. I prefer the amber tint.
Indeed... I would have listed it as the number one consideration.
Yes, that is a very important detail that can really affect the final outcome of a project.
To get that "amber" look. use shellac as your first coat/sanding sealer. Shellac comes in multiple shades of amber. You can also tint the waterborne topcoats, we call it "toner"
Good video, thanks for sharing.
As a professional finished carpenter with decades of experience and an semi professional woodworker; I avoid most everything with Minwax on the label. I hardly ever use oil based poly or paint for one reason; because since it takes many hours to "dry" it picks up all kinds of dust, requiring the need to sand each coat. Most water borne film finishes require very little if any sanding between coats. My advise to DYI finishers is to avoid the big box/hardware stores and go to a paint store or better yet a woodworking store and discuss waterborne products with them. Technology has pretty much eliminated the need for most oil and solvent based finishes.
Well, I used oil based and refinished an outdoor lighthouse back in June. It has now turned yellow from the suns UV rays. After researching a bit, I have found out that water based poly's will NOT yellow. Have to try that next time!!
I was a paint chemist and paint manufacturer for 35 years
And I think you nailed that
Completely agree with all you said
Thank you.
Oil-based is smelly, tends to bubble and can yellow when heavily exposed to sunlight. But if you want a fantastic-looking shine, there's no comparison: oil-based beats water-based hands down.
i just started using water based and to be honest, I have to say that i like it, i like the fast dry time, i like the finish and easy clean up..I also threw it in my old wagner sprayer and sprayed it on my last project for a smooth flawless finish.
In a quick couple of minutes: balanced and unbiased opinions. Bravo! And, thanks!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I appreciate it, all the pointers, pros and cons, it definitely helps this amateur diy'er feel confident in which one to use. I am a genetic penny pincher, but time is money as they say. Water based drying time being much faster pointedly steers in that direction for me, though it costs a fistful of dollars more. Also, the low smell. I remember trying an oil based drywall texture can... whew, I had to open the windows on a 30 degree day for half a day. But I appreciate the clear pros and cons you point out. And like water based, you did an excellent job in short amount of time. 😄
Before you go bonkers with it, test it on a smaller section. I have had the water based product leave an unwanted white milky film on the surface. Good luck and thanks for the feedback.
What would you use for a kitchen table? The dry time and odor aren’t a factor for me, I’m interested in durability for the liquid and heat it will take over the years
I havent done any extensive durability tests but if I always use oil based for tables. The water based is probably comparable but I use what I know works for me.
Water based for me hands down, oil based yellows over time, water based seems to turn deeper and richer. Plus I like the low odor of water based poly also water based drys faster than oil based. I have a lot of wood in my house all finished in water based poly, the house was built in 1996 and the finish has held up great, as stated earlier it seems to have gotten deeper and richer with time. My sister has a log house all finished with oil based poly, her house was built a few years before mine but her cabinets are starting to get the oil based yellow tint to them.
Good points - Thanks for the feedback. On darker wood, the oil based tint doesn't matter.
I own in apartment building in NY, all hardwood floors are oil based polyurethane. Still going strong after 30 years!!!!! I doubt water based poly would even last 6 months.
Quick and simple. Very too the point. Highly appreciate the help brother!!!
Great! Thanks for the feedback.
Remember that there is a Polyacrylic has a Floor finish version and my reasoning is that it has decent durability. I have used it on a beech butcher block counter top for a client. So far, so good and as our host has pointed out the drying time is much quicker with far fewer fumes. And thanks for your video on aerosol can finishes. Yeah, price with much less coverage.
Quick straight to the point and answered my question!
The breaking glass sound affects sold me. 😅
Which one you think will work better for outdoor vinyl projects
Maybe you say this at the end, but can you layer them? I like the matte finish available on water based but I painted a mural on a wood wall which gets a lot of sun.
Excellent presentation. You answered all questions about polyurethane.
I always recommend oil-based if you have the time. I love the deep dark tones that it creates.
you didn’t mention the most significant difference in finish, that OB gives a golden hue whilst WB remains crystal clear. this may be significant to someone finishing, creamy white maple for example. most woods will look very different with/without this golden tint
Good point. I have mentioned it in other videos but not sure why I didn't make that clear. Thanks for pointing that out.
I live in an apartment with no outdoor space and pilot lights that's why I go with the water base. I actually really like orange shellac but don't use at for the same reason
Can't use amonia/windex on glass doors, as it will dissolve water based poly over time. Non-amonia glass cleaner only!
Is there one that works better for stained wood that will be outside?
Very helpful video. Btw..... and this is meant as a compliment..watching you, i see and hear quite a resemblence to actor Tim Conway. 😊
I have had several people say that I sound like Andy Rooney (which I don't see how). You are the first to mention Tim Conway. I will that that as a compliment :-)
will waterbased PU stick to the glass surface ? I applied it to a glass slide and cured in the oven at 85C for some time then left it outside for two days, then put it in the oven at 85C for two hours and then left it in a vacuum oven at ambient temp and then heated it again at 120 C for two hours. Still it does not seem to be fully dried :( may be the coating is expired ?
That is very strange. I have never applied it to glass but it should still dry without a problem. I'm not sure it's even recommended for use on glass. Just a few thoughts...Maybe you need to stir the contents before you use it? Try it on a scrap piece of wood? Apply it using a thin coat. Water based should dry quickly without heating it.
Help!! I have sanded an entire 20 year old cabin that had all rough sawn lumber. I would like to spray polycrylic or polyurethane, but I can't possibly sand it again... please please NO!!! So which would you suggest as sprayed and not sanded??? I realize it won't be a glass finish,but in more try to seal but still want it to look good.
PS as a retiree that left Illinois, I love the license plate art !!!
Thanks
Just to be clear, I assume you are planning to spray poly on the inside of the cabin walls? Any water or oil based polyurethane instructions will say that you should lightly sand (then clean) between coats using fine sandpaper. If you can yet away with one coat then you don't need to worry. The problem you may encounter if you don't sand between coats is that the last coat won't stick as well and can peel over time.
@@AlleyPicked Thanks for the help!! ( If you are still here?). Would lacquer be a better choice? Again I really appreciate your help!!
Hi, just a quick question. I recently bought a home in WV that needed a partial external refresh so I had the front done in un-sanded hickory using the board and batten pattern along with matching stairs to the sunporch, my new neighbor is doing the work but NOT staining however he suggested polyurethane? I prefer the lighter natural look VS darker stains, do you have any suggestions when the weather is warm enough for drying like most likely spring there in WV?
I'm not sure I understand exactly...If external, polyurethane doesn't offer UV protection so I'm not sure how long that will last. If it is outdoor, I would suggest a Behr product like an outdoor clear sealer.
@@AlleyPicked It's external, about 5 feet under the sun porch done in Hickory and stairs to match
How about protecting a large wooden worm farm box? I'd guess water base would less bother the worms?
Great sound effects haha!
Please advise when you get a chance, With some sanding prior, 4” in diameter bamboo being the subject material, would you recommend a oil base polyurethane? and would a lacquer sanding sealer be necessary prior to applying polyurethane? Greatly appreciated, thanks!
Hi. Sanding sealer isn't necessary before applying polyurethane. Sealer might give you a smoother finish but I generally just skip a sealer and jump right to poly. If the wood is porous , a sealer might be a good idea.
@@AlleyPicked Many thanks!
I finished our table with oil based poly and hated cleanup so much. now making a buffet/hutch with a matching top and considering something that's easier to work with. also, the buffet should see a lot less spills/abuse than the table... hopefully.
Do the finish look the same? Is one lighter or darker?
Technically the oil based is slightly yellow. Not noticeable unless you are finishing something very light or white.
I can't find any information on wiping on polyurethane for the poly plastic gun stocks.. I see countless videos for wood and of course would gun stocks but nothing for the plastic gun stocks... does anybody know if water-based or oil-based matters when applying this on plastic and with that asked does does anyone know if I can even do this on plastic?
Here's my opinion. Finished are generally not effective on plastic. Plastic is inherently protected and shiny. I'm not sure why you would want to use a finish. Unless you sand the plastic, any wood finish will not stick to it for very long. I checked many spray finish cans I have and none say they can be used on plastic. You can experiment but unless as I said, you rough up the surface, finishes will not stick. Good luck.
This is great but help....I have been playing with poly for about 3 months (because I cant get it right). How do I prevent micro bubbles on something I need to be totally smooth? I have tried full strength, reduced with miniral spirits. slow move ment, etc. I even tried get the coats down , dry for two weeks and then 3 step polishing like a cars clearcoat...which leaves small scratch lines...disclosure, I am trying to get a glass like finish on a piano black case...Its mirror like for sure , by up real close, you see trash or micro bubbles...HELP...L0L :-)
Well, I have a few suggestions. The easiest is one that I have recently been using very successfully. For the first coat, use a sanding sealer for which I use an unwaxed shellac product they sell at home depot. This coat seals the wood and so the first coat of poly doesn't bubble. very lightly sand the shellac, clean the dust, apply poly. Sand lightly between coats of poly. Wont touch the final coat. Let it dry for a week, then use a brown paper or the back of a piece of sandpaper to rub the surface. This acts like a 5000 grit sandpaper and leaves the final finish pretty smooth. I have tried using a heat gun in the past which pops the bubbles but these pesky little bubbles can show up later. So, try the shellac. Don't get the regular shellac which contains wax. The poly doesn't stick well to wax :-)
If you have never used shellac before, it dries in minutes, so apply it in a small area, overlap slightly until the whole project is coated.
What if we are doing a natural/un-stained red oak? We were thinking of water because it looks more natural. Good? Bad?
In that case I would probably use the water based poly. It's just a little trickier to get a smooth finish using water based.
Can I go over water based poly with oil based on a refinished floor?
Yes, but always scuff the the existing surface with some very fine sandpaper or steel wool. Then clean thoroughly before applying the oil based.
hello there
i want to use polyurethane to strengthen my polymer clay sculptures.
i want to apply as a couple of thin layers before i take a silicon mold and then paint them
but i dont know which one to use? oil or water based
which one i could spray thru my airbrush kit better
and if there is a better solution to toughen up the sculptures than poly what is it??
i know this aint a scultping channel but may be you can give me pointers on the materials :D
thnx in advance
stay healthy and cheers
I am not the spraying expert but I am fairly certain you can use water based and oil based through the airbrush. Keep in mind that the oil based will have a yellowing effect. That may not matter to you if you are using it for a mold. You can also use aerosol spray cans. I saw one product called "Mod Podge Spray Acrylic Sealer that is Specifically Formulated to Seal Craft Projects, Dries Crystal Clear is Non-Yellowing No-Run and Quick Drying" which looks like it would be good. I guess my concern with the oil based poly is that it might crack or peel over time on the clay. If you only need it for a short time for a mold, then it might not matter to you. Sorry I don't have any more specific help. Tom
@@AlleyPicked i was thinking of using water based for the sole reason that you ve already warned me about.. it dries clear... but i am not sure about how should i handle the water to pu ratio..
cause i will try to advertise the scupltures as a unique one and keep the molded copy for myself :D thats why i need the final polymer clay intact during the molding process as much as possible...
i ve not came across that specific sealer here in Istanbul, Turkey, but will be on the look out if i can find it abroad :D
thnx for your insightful feedback and time Tom.. much appreciated... i guess 50/50 ratio will be a good "try and see" point :P
stay healthy and strong
cheers
Very useful video! Just a few more questions about these products:
1. How much ventilation is needed for the oil vs water based if I would be doing this in a basement with a single window and a fan?
2. Which is more protective to things like heat and water?
3. Do you recommend any 2 in 1 products like the polyshades or stain + poly from varathane?
4. Would you recommend minwax or varathane?
Thanks
There is literally ZERO comparison in terms of durability between oil and water based polyurethane. I don't know why people even try to compare the two. I own in apartment building in NY, all hardwood floors are oil based polyurethane. Still looking good after 30 years!!! If I used water based polyurethane, I doubt it would even last a year.
Have to agree on the floors. OB is a definite on floors/stairs.
@@geecee1990 100%
🤔 after using minwax water base poly why do I get the white sheen after it has dried?
If you look at the water poly inside the can, it is white. Depending on what you use it on, the white color can be a little noticeable. Similar to oil based poly which has a slight yellow. Even though the water based says it dries clear, I have noticed a slight milky color also. The only way I think you can avoid this as much as possible is to put it on very thin. Some stain colors are a little more forgiving to the water based whiteness of the poly. I have a feeling other brands will have the same slightly milky results. Try oil based? Good Luck, Tom
Can I use an oil based top coat over water based mineral or chalk paint?
You can use oil based over water based. Keep in mind that oil based has a slight yellow tint and will show up on light colors. Always lightly sand the surface before applying a finish on top of a finish.
Please can I use the water based polyurethane on the concrete wall for both indoor and outdoor?
Its not meant to be used outdoor. You can try it but if its in direct sunlight and will get rained on, it won't last too long.
@@AlleyPicked can it be used on concrete wall?
@@namsoemmanson8338 I have not used itOK. Concrete but I think it should be ok.
Hello,after sending the floor and giving it 1 coat of oil base can you change it to water base polyurethane/can you mix the two products?
You can. Be sure to lightly sand between coats and it should be fine.
@@AlleyPicked Thanks
I thought oil based was more durable. What would look better on Hickory that's just been wiped down with boiled linseed oil to make the grain pop?
It's not that Oil based is more durable, it actually is durable. Water based poly vs oil based poly isn't even a comparison when it comes to durability. Especially on floors.
You said you used 20-year old polyurethane. I purchased some from Walmart (water-based) and it is extremely watery with a thick, waxy substance at the bottom. I tried to mix it but am having a hard time. Is it just too old?
Well...since I have only purchased a couple water based poly cans in my lifetime, I may not be the expert but i can tell you that if it does not mix thoroughly and retain a nice consistency, something is wrong. Perhaps the can got too cold or froze in transportation. If you cant mix it evenly after several minutes, I would return it to Walmart and try a different can. You might try pouring off a little water from the top into a plastic container, then mix the can, then add the water slowly back in. Good luck, let me know how it turns out. Tom
I painted my sink with Epoxy Appliance spray paint. Then I applied OIl Based Poly. and it left terrible brush marks (brush that was suggested by a Home depot employee) it looks terrible ! Any suggestions?
It's should have been sprayed on, not brushed. They have people that refinish sinks and bathtub's. The way your doing it would just be for like a small little chip
Right to the point. Thanks!
hello can i use the water based polyurethane to coat my bathtub? if yes which one is better for the bathtub oil or water based?.
Neither. You cannot use this product on your bathtub.
Hello, thanks.
Over Alkyd paint, I'm afraid water base polyurethane will crack the paint, should I use Oil base polyurethane? Or should I dont worry about using water base? Thanks
I think you mean Alkyd paint. A long as the base is dry I think water based will be fine. If you could lightly sand or steel wool the surface before without damaging it, that would be better. Test it on a small part first but I think it should be fine.
I think you mean Alkyd paint. A long as the base is dry I think water based will be fine. If you could lightly sand or steel wool the surface before without damaging it, that would be better. Test it on a small part first but I think it should be fine.
Is there a difference between the two as far as surface material compatibility
Are you referring to a non-wood surface? They both will work on any wood surface.
Will oil based poly smell strongly for a long time after application?
If you ask my wife she would say YES! It dissipates slowly for about a week. After that only a slight smell. Eventually it goes away completely.
@@AlleyPicked Got it! Thank you!
What can I use to tint a oil based clear coat red?
You could add a little oil based stain to it. Like Minwax Sedona red.
@@AlleyPicked Thank you very much for the idea.
0:44 that sound really scared me.......
Obviously oil is better but in my case I'm doing inside staircase treads. I don't want to deal with the fumes inside my house. I'd rather do six coats of water based.
"Sorry babe, I will finish the floors but I havent found any stain at estate sales"
Hey Tom, I hope that the quarantine has not been too hard on you. I agree with all of your comments. One of the great things about living in California is that the state makes most of my decisions regarding finishes for me. I don't have to waste time trying to decide what the best finish is. I can spend the time that I've saved watching your cool videos on TH-cam.
Thanks! Sorry for your government overreach :-) If I want to kill some brain cells with polyurethane fumes, I should be able to do so. lol
Thank you, good information.
Love those sound effects! They were sound effects, weren't they? You didn't smash up half the house throwing those cards away, did you? Is that the next video? Fixing up damage done by flying cards? Cheers Tom!
I used 5mm steel for those signs ;-)
From my understanding, polyurethane “yellows” over time. Where, polycryllic is more stable over time.
Polyurethane starts out yellow but generally doesnt turn more yellow over time.
Love the sound effects! 😂
Hi Tom. I am using a water based polyurethane on my bathroom floor. Do I have to wait 24 hours to sand and recoat? Or can I do that sooner? Thanks Jim
You can do it as soon as it dries. However it will take several days to fully cure.
Can I use both on a project for extra protection? I wanna use wood to make a fish tank stand so it would get a lot of water contact.
Sure you can use both.
Thank you.
UV protection?
not meant for outdoors. Marine varnish has some UV protection.
I once used oil based in a small room. 5 minutes later I was high as hell haha. Definitely don’t make that mistake
Water based is far superior. No yellowing of project, no special solvents, no special storage or disposal, and all the other bonuses discussed in the video. GF water based top coat is about as good as it gets and when making projects commercially the time savings can reduce cost or down time. Water based or bust!
You sound like you are working for a company that sells water based poly:-) While you raise valid points, there is one main point really...When it comes to a purely smooth finish, I have yet to see water based beat oil based. I use both often and if I am after the best finish where a slight yellowing won't matter such as on wood stain, I would pick oil based any day of the week. Thanks for your comments.
thanks for easy facts!!!
Petroleum emits a strong odor, but I wouldn't call it a stink. Very tolerable for a period
My wife disagrees :-)
But your floors will turn yellow/orange
No they won't.
Depends if you want it to last longer….
Yeah. That is what he is saying.
like your sense of humor but take the comedic sound effects down a notch.
Great video thanks so much for the info. Also I don't know who needs this, but I'd like to bless anyone since you've blessed me. Jesus christ loves you and gave his life on the cross so we could live and have a relationship with god. All we have to do is recognize our sins and ask for forgiveness and believe in jesus christ his son.
Oil looks better but damn do I hate cleaning that crap up
Yep - it's more work. I have lost some great brushes due to not cleaning thoroughly enough.
Alley Picked you think there’s like some sort of brush cleaner or like ringer to really get the oils out of the brush?
@@jacobkomnath7961 My method has been to clean the brush multiple times with paint thinner. In between cleanings, slap it across my chain link fence. clean and repeat. After a couple hours there is a little stiffness in my brush which I can usually comb out with a wire brush. It's just a goofy method I have been using and seems to keep my brushes in good shape -- at least for awhile.
useles comparison