If your spraying polycrylic you would still need a respirator cause the chemical used to dissolve the acrylic is still hazardous. If your spraying outside its not as much of a hazard but if indoors then definately a good idea to protect yourself
Thank you so much for this video , I need to use one for coasters with acrylic paints that would withstand hot mugs would you recommend me one please ? I tried water based polyurethane but it yellowish my items 😔
Nice information. I am planning to make a 1 square meter playing board from 24mm birch plywood. There will a playing round puck and round wooden coins been used during playing, just like a game of pool with 4 corner holes. Should i use a oil based poly or water based for durability and how many coats please? Second question as i would be using pine wood for the outer frame. After painting it could i use a few coats of Poly to harden the (one inch inner) border that touches the playing surface? Just so i can make the pine hard then the playing puck can rebound well on strike. Do you have any other way of making the pine wood hard or the poly should be fine? . Lastly would it crack the poly coat on regular striking the board borders?? Sorry to bother you with so many questions. Thanks
I definitely recommend oil based poly for this application because of durability, as you say. I recommend at least 3 coats. You can put it over paint as long as you use the same family-oil with oil; water with water.
Thanks for this video! Do you have a preference for Polycrylic or Polyurethane when applying a protective coat on a bookshelf that smells (maybe due to formaldehyde) and is smudgy? Trying to get rid of the smell and smudginess, while also protecting the books from both problems. Thanks again!
Best case, you should try to match the type of finish that’s already on the bookshelf. For instance if the finish on it is water-based you would use polycrylic, and if it’s oil base you would use polyurethane. But either one should work. All things being equal I would prefer the polyurethane.
Hello thank you so much for this video.. i just have a few question since I'm not good at this but I'm doing my own furnitures :) . Right now I made my pallete coffee table with two layer paint.. deep aqua and white (enamel) Im currently not sure ehat wood finish (protective paint) to use. I have used before a Polyurethane for may wall pallets and it works well but i tried to use it on my recent project which is the coffe table I said earlier but i found out that it is not good for white enamel paint. It make a yellowish brownish color instead of transparent finish only I really want just to have a protective paint and transparent as much as possible because enamel paint is like a chalk and it keeps sticking on my hand or towel. is it good to use Polycrylic over enamel paint(white)? hopefully you can help me . thank you so much!
Yes you can as long as you match the solvent types. In other words, use water based polycrylic over water based paint and use oil based polyurethane over oil based paint.
I finished a desk and an antique bed in Polyurethane and it yellowed . I’m in the process of redoing the desk and will eventually redo the bed but have chosen the Polycrylic this time I’ve heard that the Polycrylic will have a whitish finish but I’m ok with that because the color paint I use in an Antiqued White . I just don’t want yellowing.
As I mentioned in the video, polyurathane does have a yellowish cast to it. Some think it adds warmth and depth to the piece. I'm sorry that didn't work well for you.
Great informative video, thank you! Could you please recommend the finish for birch plywood used for the kitchen cabinets? I would say the project goals are 1-protection, 2-low sheen, 3-non yellowing natural look. I like the look of water based polyurethane finish, but would that be suitable?
Thanks! You have conflicting goals. The most durable is polyurethane, but it yellows slightly. IF your true #1 is durability, then go with polyurethane!
Just because the Polycrylic appears white in the container, doesn't mean it leaves a white hue when cured. In my experience the white disappears when it cures and comes out clear.
A pro with the Polycrylic is you can wash your expensive brush out completely under the sink (water based) without the need for expensive smelly thinners..
True, and a con with the polyacrylic finish is if water (or other fluid) is spilled on it and sits for long enough the finish will become soft and eventually emulsify. The good news is as long as you don't scrape or scratch it while it's soft it will usually dry out with no problems and rings from glasses and such will go away. Never use it on outdoor furniture that gets direct rain!
Is the polyacrylic considered non-toxic for children wood toy finish? And does it wash away with water? Because my child is used to wiping things with water. Thanks.
@@SawsHub They are made of natual wood, "Sande", 18 mm, I am looking for a natural finish, but to protect it against food stains or scratches. I am totally new to carpentry.
hi. taken me ages to find a channel like yours! i am the son of a carpenter which makes me a true wood butcher! i am in the middle of chipping a knife sharpening pond out of an old pine bed frame and a hotel pan. instead of making it easy and straight forwards i was arrogant. gone wayyy way too complicated. I know the theory yet i do not have the practice, experience or skill. And of course, i thought i was big enough and ugly enough to do it all with hand tools. I.E no mitres, and actually no old timber. i need to do some very creative wood fillling and a lot more sanding! My most important goal is to have a solid place to whet blades. My second goal is for it to look slightly prety. I am going to a lot of sanding and coating. After applying many thin layers of Quick Drying Interior/Exterior Woodsheen DARK WALNUT 250ML by Dulux ... What would be the best layer to protect the wood? It is my first solo project so i want it to last long enough to be handed down to atleast on generation so it can be used. Peace & Love x I am in the UK but happy to inport
I tried Polywhey and polyacrylic. I liked the polywhey cause it didn't smell bad but was kind of yellowish the polyacrylic was more clear but smelled more
Not recommended. You don't want to use multiple solvent bases. However, I sympathize with your situation! Sounds like you're in cold weather for the winter?
Minwax once made a clear urethane that was totally clear that when you looked into the can, you could clearly see the bottom of the can. I believe it was water based. That said you cannot find it anymore. I even contacted the factory, and they would not answer my question about why it's not made anymore. they just referred to the products they have on the shelves. It was the best and easiest to use. I don't like the oil based and that milky polyacrylic.
Super helpful. Thank you!!! Going with polyurethane now. :) Do you have a recommendation on a particular finish (matte, gloss, satin, etc) when used to restore a kitchen/dining table? Thank you!!
As far as toxicity is concerned about products like these, look up the product on the manufacturers website and read the SDS (safety data sheet).Warnings are given. Also the can will in most cases have guidance. If you don't wish to go to the trouble I will say that most products as these that are used in woodworking (even Super Glue) are hazardous. At a minimum use in a well ventilated area. Also consider purchasing a 3M type cartridge mask that will absorb organic vapors. You can live without eyes or ears but lungs and a brain are more more important. Good information, sir.
You're right that this is a "non-water" component to water based finishes. But, the amount in comparison to oil based is minimal, and not toxic. Good ventilation is always a great idea!
SawsHub DIY Woodworking Tips just because you don’t smell it as much doesn’t make it less toxic. From the Minwax website “VAPOR HARMFUL. Use only with adequate ventilation. To avoid overexposure, open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh air entry during application and drying. If you experience eye watering, headaches, or dizziness, increase fresh air, or wear respiratory protection (NIOSH approved) or leave the area. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Wash hands after using. ... DELAYED EFFECTS FROM LONG TERM OVEREXPOSURE. Contains solvents which can cause permanent brain and nervous system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling the contents can be harmful or fatal.” www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-polycrylic-protective-finish
Good lord, you have to wash your hands after using SOAP. "Prolonged exposure" is negligible when using this compared to other products. Don't put your face in the can and huff it when you're using it. Or go ahead and do it..., whatever floats your tuba when you're trying to be a truthjunkie.
matrimony (T) = n, pl matrimonies. 1 the state or condition of being married. 2 the ceremony of marriage. 3a a card game in which the king and queen together are a winning combination. 3b such a combination. [C14: via Norman F from L mätrimönium wedlock, from mäter mother]
straight-to-the-point information from an expert. great video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you! Your videos helped me a lot!
You are so welcome!
Very nice video sir. And the description helped a lot.
Glad it helped
Thank you...excellent tips!
You are so welcome!
Thank you very much for this explanation .
You are welcome
If your spraying polycrylic you would still need a respirator cause the chemical used to dissolve the acrylic is still hazardous. If your spraying outside its not as much of a hazard but if indoors then definately a good idea to protect yourself
I agree that a respirator is always a good idea inside.
Very helpful - thank you very much :-)
Thanks!
Thank you for the explanation!
This was extremely helpful ans answered all of my questions. Thank you!
Exactly what I wanted to know! Very helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Polyurethane can be got as a water-base as well, and is less inclined to leave yellow residue.
Thank you, well done
Thank you too!
Can you use an airless sprayer for spraying polyurethanes?
Thank you so much for this video , I need to use one for coasters with acrylic paints that would withstand hot mugs would you recommend me one please ? I tried water based polyurethane but it yellowish my items 😔
Acrylic paint isn't meant to withstand heat. I would try oil based polyurethane.
Beautiful work- I concur, the oil based product is tougher regarding protection
great video, thank you
im interested in painting kitchen cabinets with a white or light color. which would be best. which is a better heat and water resistor? ty
Polyurethane. You need something really durable for kitchen cabinets
Nice information. I am planning to make a 1 square meter playing board from 24mm birch plywood. There will a playing round puck and round wooden coins been used during playing, just like a game of pool with 4 corner holes. Should i use a oil based poly or water based for durability and how many coats please?
Second question as i would be using pine wood for the outer frame. After painting it could i use a few coats of Poly to harden the (one inch inner) border that touches the playing surface? Just so i can make the pine hard then the playing puck can rebound well on strike.
Do you have any other way of making the pine wood hard or the poly should be fine? . Lastly would it crack the poly coat on regular striking the board borders??
Sorry to bother you with so many questions. Thanks
I definitely recommend oil based poly for this application because of durability, as you say. I recommend at least 3 coats. You can put it over paint as long as you use the same family-oil with oil; water with water.
Thanks for this video! Do you have a preference for Polycrylic or Polyurethane when applying a protective coat on a bookshelf that smells (maybe due to formaldehyde) and is smudgy? Trying to get rid of the smell and smudginess, while also protecting the books from both problems. Thanks again!
Best case, you should try to match the type of finish that’s already on the bookshelf. For instance if the finish on it is water-based you would use polycrylic, and if it’s oil base you would use polyurethane. But either one should work. All things being equal I would prefer the polyurethane.
Hello thank you so much for this video.. i just have a few question since I'm not good at this but I'm doing my own furnitures :) . Right now I made my pallete coffee table with two layer paint.. deep aqua and white (enamel) Im currently not sure ehat wood finish (protective paint) to use. I have used before a Polyurethane for may wall pallets and it works well but i tried to use it on my recent project which is the coffe table I said earlier but i found out that it is not good for white enamel paint. It make a yellowish brownish color instead of transparent finish only I really want just to have a protective paint and transparent as much as possible because enamel paint is like a chalk and it keeps sticking on my hand or towel.
is it good to use Polycrylic over enamel paint(white)?
hopefully you can help me . thank you so much!
Yes you can as long as you match the solvent types. In other words, use water based polycrylic over water based paint and use oil based polyurethane over oil based paint.
great video! Thanks for posting. I'm building new kitchen cabinets and ordered an HVLP sprayer. Would the polyacrylic be easier for cleanup?
Yes, since its water based, it will be easier to clean up.
I finished a desk and an antique bed in Polyurethane and it yellowed . I’m in the process of redoing the desk and will eventually redo the bed but have chosen the Polycrylic this time I’ve heard that the Polycrylic will have a whitish finish but I’m ok with that because the color paint I use in an Antiqued White . I just don’t want yellowing.
As I mentioned in the video, polyurathane does have a yellowish cast to it. Some think it adds warmth and depth to the piece. I'm sorry that didn't work well for you.
Thank you very helpful video.
Glad it was helpful!
Can you use Polycrylic finish on gel stain?
Would it be okay to apply polycrylic to joint compound?
Great informative video, thank you!
Could you please recommend the finish for birch plywood used for the kitchen cabinets? I would say the project goals are 1-protection, 2-low sheen, 3-non yellowing natural look. I like the look of water based polyurethane finish, but would that be suitable?
Thanks! You have conflicting goals. The most durable is polyurethane, but it yellows slightly. IF your true #1 is durability, then go with polyurethane!
@@SawsHub great, thank you for the tip
Can I use Polyacrylik on top of a Oil base Tint?
Just because the Polycrylic appears white in the container, doesn't mean it leaves a white hue when cured. In my experience the white disappears when it cures and comes out clear.
A pro with the Polycrylic is you can wash your expensive brush out completely under the sink (water based) without the need for expensive smelly thinners..
Yes! Very true.
True, and a con with the polyacrylic finish is if water (or other fluid) is spilled on it and sits for long enough the finish will become soft and eventually emulsify. The good news is as long as you don't scrape or scratch it while it's soft it will usually dry out with no problems and rings from glasses and such will go away. Never use it on outdoor furniture that gets direct rain!
Very helpful. Thank you
Can you put one or both of these over painted wood?
Only if the paint is solidly adhered to the surface. You must use the same type of finish as the paint; either oil based or water based.
Is the polyacrylic considered non-toxic for children wood toy finish? And does it wash away with water? Because my child is used to wiping things with water. Thanks.
hello friend, hello from mexico city, im a begginer in the wood, could you say me what tipy use to base cabinet for kitchen, for easy cleening?
You're looking for a finish for your wood cabinets? Are they painted, stained, or natural wood?
@@SawsHub
They are made of natual wood, "Sande", 18 mm, I am looking for a natural finish, but to protect it against food stains or scratches. I am totally new to carpentry.
hi. taken me ages to find a channel like yours!
i am the son of a carpenter which makes me a true wood butcher!
i am in the middle of chipping a knife sharpening pond out of an old pine bed frame and a hotel pan. instead of making it easy and straight forwards i was arrogant. gone wayyy way too complicated. I know the theory yet i do not have the practice, experience or skill.
And of course, i thought i was big enough and ugly enough to do it all with hand tools. I.E no mitres, and actually no old timber.
i need to do some very creative wood fillling and a lot more sanding!
My most important goal is to have a solid place to whet blades. My second goal is for it to look slightly prety.
I am going to a lot of sanding and coating. After applying many thin layers of Quick Drying Interior/Exterior Woodsheen DARK WALNUT 250ML by Dulux ...
What would be the best layer to protect the wood?
It is my first solo project so i want it to last long enough to be handed down to atleast on generation so it can be used.
Peace & Love x
I am in the UK but happy to inport
I tried Polywhey and polyacrylic. I liked the polywhey cause it didn't smell bad but was kind of yellowish the polyacrylic was more clear but smelled more
Can I used the fast dry to get me thro winter and put a polyurethane after ?
Not recommended. You don't want to use multiple solvent bases. However, I sympathize with your situation! Sounds like you're in cold weather for the winter?
Varathan Polyurethane has a water based option.
Yes!
Thanks!
Minwax once made a clear urethane that was totally clear that when you looked into the can, you could clearly see the bottom of the can. I believe it was water based. That said you cannot find it anymore. I even contacted the factory, and they would not answer my question about why it's not made anymore. they just referred to the products they have on the shelves. It was the best and easiest to use. I don't like the oil based and that milky polyacrylic.
I agree completely
Have you ever tried thinning the polycrylic a bit to wipe it on?
What would be more like a thicker finish?
Polyurethane
@@SawsHub what about a thicker finish you can get like epoxy but not as expensive? If there is any
Super helpful. Thank you!!! Going with polyurethane now. :) Do you have a recommendation on a particular finish (matte, gloss, satin, etc) when used to restore a kitchen/dining table? Thank you!!
Not gloss, either matte or satin. My personal preference is matte - it is more subtle and lets the features of wood display a bit better.
thank you sir much obliged....
Most welcome
Most welcome
There's a water-based polyurethane also.
Correct!
As far as toxicity is concerned about products like these, look up the product on the manufacturers website and read the SDS (safety data sheet).Warnings are given. Also the can will in most cases have guidance. If you don't wish to go to the trouble I will say that most products as these that are used in woodworking (even Super Glue) are hazardous. At a minimum use in a well ventilated area. Also consider purchasing a 3M type cartridge mask that will absorb organic vapors. You can live without eyes or ears but lungs and a brain are more more important.
Good information, sir.
Thanks!
Water based polycrylic is still harmful and needs to be used in well ventilated areas even if you can't smell it.
You're right that this is a "non-water" component to water based finishes. But, the amount in comparison to oil based is minimal, and not toxic. Good ventilation is always a great idea!
SawsHub DIY Woodworking Tips just because you don’t smell it as much doesn’t make it less toxic. From the Minwax website “VAPOR HARMFUL. Use only with adequate ventilation. To avoid overexposure, open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh air entry during application and drying. If you experience eye watering, headaches, or dizziness, increase fresh air, or wear respiratory protection (NIOSH approved) or leave the area. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Wash hands after using. ... DELAYED EFFECTS FROM LONG TERM OVEREXPOSURE. Contains solvents which can cause permanent brain and nervous system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling the contents can be harmful or fatal.” www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-polycrylic-protective-finish
Good lord, you have to wash your hands after using SOAP. "Prolonged exposure" is negligible when using this compared to other products. Don't put your face in the can and huff it when you're using it. Or go ahead and do it..., whatever floats your tuba when you're trying to be a truthjunkie.
Lol so glad we chose polyurethane. We re did our table during the quarentine 😂👌
That's a great project to tackle during this time!
Ltx
mat-ra = dimension
Page 731
matri- = combining form. mother or motherhood: matriarchy. [from L mater mother]
material = ba-han
matrimony (T) = n, pl matrimonies. 1 the state or condition of being married. 2 the ceremony of marriage. 3a a card game in which the king and queen together are a winning combination. 3b such a combination. [C14: via Norman F from L mätrimönium wedlock, from mäter mother]