Make a 1000w equiv. LED flashlight - aka DIY Sun-Blaster!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- Here's how to make a phenomenally bright 1000w eqiv. LED flashlight!
Parts links:
Disclosure: These are affiliate links. If you click them and make a purchase from the various merchants they link to, DIY Perks may earn a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to the eBay Partner Network and Amazon Associates.
Here's the LED we'll be using: ebay.to/2COMXJw
It's designed to be operated with just one hand, with easy control of brightness, and can be powered by either batteries or an AC adapter.
Can be built for around £25 if you get the CPU cooler for cheap.
Major parts list (worldwide shipping):
Heatsink, fan, lens, and mount:
ebay.to/2kSI4Yx
Other parts:
Lens and Reflector:
ebay.to/2BcTehM
Voltage Booster (there are two layout varieties floating around. If yours has a different layout than the one I used in the video, then use your own judgement when it comes to wiring up the input/output wires, which should be clearly marked on whichever layout you receive.):
eBay: ebay.to/2BVAIya
High-Capacity Battery (lasts for AGES):
ebay.to/2CPRY4I
Heatsink Plaster:
eBay: ebay.to/2kSCKog
Heatpaste:
ebay.to/2z9Fm68
Mini Step Down Regulator (for the fan):
eBay: ebay.to/2kxVnhQ
XT60 Connectors:
If you attempt this project you do so at your own risk. I assume no responsibility for any injuries or damages caused to people or property during its construction or use.
I have taken care in making sure the information in this video is accurate. However, I am unable to provide any warranty concerning the accuracy or completeness of any information contained in the video.
OFFICIAL LINKS:
Support me on Patreon: / diyperks
Official Website: www.diyperks.com/
Discord: diyperks.com/discord-server/
Forums: diyperks.com/community/
Twitter: / diyperks - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
He could read for a children's audio book. The most delightful voice on TH-cam, I swear.
+Ano Nymous No the best voice on youtube is definitley Boo's. Just look up Booman61.
thatguywithavoice is a good contestant
+Viking War Pickle Bob Ross is best
[TherOnly]Lord Pistachio Too bad he's not currently alive.
Viking War Pickle i know
Nobody:
DIY Perks: Builds a handheld version of the fucking sun.
I think the sun is a bit more powerful than 100W
@@abnormaalz i think the obvious over exaggeration of this mans comment flew right over your head memester ^^
@@daygenandrews1321 ah, all this time I was convinced this man was being serious. Thank you for the clarification boss
⠀ mother of god....
@Mickey Mouse I know this is a little old and a woosh moment (for me) but The Sun releases an estimated 384.6 yotta watts (3.846×1026 watts) of energy in the form of light and other forms of radiation.
I made a spotlight version of this with a motion detector and mounted it on a pole. Funny to watch ppl get startled on my security cameras.
Evil 😂😂😂👌
R/madlads
This deserves a TH-cam video
Yes Please Show Us A Video Of This
Fellow Canadian
You too can build this in only 6000 easy steps.
The more complicated the better, i make things because i really like making things, not because i only care about the end result
""""""""""""""""""""""easy""""""""""""""""""""""
YES ：）
@@Impetuss I like the light so I make it.
people who want fewer easy steps can go buy one at a shop and learn nothing in the process
"Can be built for around £25 " shame the battery alone is 46 dollars ;)
Still I like this project, it looks very professional and very useful :)
Yeah, and even if I didn't want the 100W LED to fly across the globe to me, it would still be around 32£
ThaTyger I guess the real question is what would an equivalent product cost if purchased retail. My gut feeling is that it would probably be pretty pricey for something as bright as this, though I haven't actually looked into it. Plus for some I'm sure the whole "DIY" aspect alone makes it worth while! haha
The LED he uses produces 7500 lumens. Find a flashlight that produces roughly the same and you have your answer.
Here's one on Ebay for $150 usd www.ebay.com/itm/SKYRAY-7000-Lumens-4x-CREE-XM-L-U2-LED-Flashlight-Torch-4x-18650-Battery-Charger-/321448134144
Walter Boxhead It actually looks pretty similar to this awesome one I found:
www.opticsplanet.com/olight-x6-marauder-5000-lumen-rechargable-led-searchlight.html
He said if you can get the cpu cooler for cheap
Your dedication to putting people’s mind at ease with “don’t worry I’m going to cover this better in a moment” is commendable.
Why does this guy look super happy!! It makes me happy to see how happy this guy looks
he said ”the light can be powered by any sauce" then HP sauce pops up. lmao 18:23
It would be funnier if Michael from VSauce poped up
Its 18:25
I have literally no hope of being able to follow the instructions but it was fun to watch.
Only because the video tutorial runs so fast. It probably took him over a week to design and make, and another week to produce the video.
And also the lack of experience with electronics
Actually there was very little electricians involved. Apart from the inverter board which he purchased, it was just soldering connections.
*eletronics
MattBlytheTheOne but still it would be quite challenging for a total beginner
Thank you for showing your work step by step, in addition to the full report and very helpful about where to find the components. The images were very well made, have a notion very close to the reality of the power of this flashlight. Inspired me a lot!
Even though I have absolutely no idea what you're talking about 90% of the time, I still find your videos so enjoyable! Good job!
Before watching: Oh man, I can't wait to make one of these
After watching: Nevermind
Not only is this an awesome DIY project, but also Incredibly well-produced! Great work, subscribed.
As'{Iq&X9D_u|aNJ~8ESwXSEX?&W#I/-.]
&
I love the lego 1x4 spacer block. no diy project can go without Lego.
I've watched couple of these Matt's videos. Once this one started I realized that I had seen his first video about a DIY follow focus 8 years ago. Wow! He's gone and done some really cool things since then!
You could kill Dracula 🧛♂️ with that.
Or get charged with assault/assisted manslaughter, for permanently blinding (or worse) an innocent man from Transylvania, named John, that happens to loosely look like a vampire...
how did court go
@@Java_Protogen lmao
Madara uciha has been revived
18:24 - Blip of a picture of a bottle that says "HP SAUCE, Don't bring home the bacon without it"... Subliminal messaging? This is an amazing video BTW keep it up!
It's because of his accent, Isn't it BARNACULES? I know how you roll.
So creative
Barnacules Nerdgasm At first I only subscribed to you because you comment on all the videos I watch XD
+The dog pets
1÷=
Barnacules Nerdgasm you must buy me 🤤
Another awesome video man. Only watched 30 seconds so far but know the next 21 minutes will be epic :D
Yet again, a fantastically comprehensive video
You have awesome craftsmanship skills! I love your creations! ❤️
That's awesome! You even provided a parts list nice one! I'd love to see how far you could take "hand held" LED lights. You cold do something insane if you used a backpack for batteries and/or cooling. Perhaps the backpack could be optional for boosting intensity/increasing longevity? A lense with a bat symbol would be really cool!
Hot damn, that's ingenious, I need to make one of these, and I've got a pretty large old heatsink I could use.
Op is taking time to explain to us how to make a cool gadget. Thanks OP. I am at a loss as to what the negatives are saying. No need and totally unwarranted in my opinion. Keep up the work. I'll be taking some of your concepts and applying them to my mega torch build. Thanks for the inspiration. Keep the internet free and safe for all.
i have seen many DIY this guy is unreal!! i extremely love ur content and explanation.
Quick tip:
Use some heat shrink tubing instead of this crappy electrical tape!
Reth Tard no
NO
No.
Exactly what I thought of.
No nooooob
Took me too long to realise the significance of the HP Sauce at 18:25 :)
A hint for the longer videos though: add an index to take viewers straight to any key steps. I put one at the beginning of mine and copy the index text into the video description, TH-cam then automatically turns the times into links.
Brilliant video, if you'll excuse the pun :)
I wish I could like this video more than once. Really love this tutorial.
hi matt and other diy'ers. I just made the sun-blaster myself and have some things to say for when you want to make this foro yourself (these are things i have come across while building) .
first of all: when bending the aluminium profiles, you must heat them up with a flame, otherwise they crack( happend to me)
second: the new heatsink that is linked does not have a apropriot bracket to mount to the aluminium, you have to buy a separet bracket.
and last: mounting the regulator to the side without desoledering the capacators and the heatsinks from the regulator works fine, it stays cool enough
it was a very nice project to make! thanks diy perks for making the tutorial, keep it up!
greetings from belgium
I can only imagine the amount of work put onto projecting, building and editing. Awesome work! Please keep it up :)
You are awesome. I mean... not many people can do what you do.
he looks so precious when he smiles omg
amazing light! and amazing DIY skills you have there.
VERRRY nice video work (nice motion tracking, animated dimensioning bits and pieces, spotlighting areas of interest, etc.), and I really like your mechanical fabrication work, but you might do well to learn a bit more about electronics before taking on projects like this.
Those 2 devices you broke off of the Boost regulator are not IC's... one is a dual diode, the other is a MOSFET transistor... and it's CRITICAL that they don't get swapped one for the other... if so, the release of the magic smoke will happen... and the regulator board will no longer function without that magic smoke....
Then you reeeeally should use proper TO-220 mounting kit with insulators... expecting "thermal paste" to be the insulation is a bad idea, and it exposes them to possible short-circuit if a tiny metal bit gets lodged in there.
When working with such large Lithium batteries, you have a real potential for life-threatening fires... what happens if a short circuit happens when it's in someone's closet? USE FUSES... (ever seen videos of Lithium battery fires?)
Extending the MOSFET leads can lead to instabilities in the high frequency switching regulator as well... it's just not a good idea... but if you must, keep the leads as short as possible, and use some silicone rubber over the solder joints where you solder the wires to the Diode and MOSFET.
Also, you selected the wrong Boost Regulator for using with an LED. To get maximum brightness from the LED, and yet protect it from burning out, you need to use a Current Regulator.... not just a voltage regulator. Get one with "CV CC" regulation... which has both Voltage and Current regulation. LED's are Current driven devices, and the only way to be SURE you have the proper driving current, is with a current regulating (limiting) power supply... such as: tinyurl.com/o77mcmg .
This brings in another issue, you really need to let people know they need to use a Lithium battery with at least 14.1V (4 cells in series) for a CV/CC boost regulator, anything less than that wont' be enough voltage (they require NO LESS than 11-12V to run). It will run longer with even more cells in series, since the power converter stays more efficient with higher input voltages. You can then set the alarm voltage to 3.0V per cell, which is the standard rating... and it will run even longer. (be certain to use a proper battery charger for whatever battery you end up using!)
Example battery pack: tinyurl.com/mlezlpl
That LED should come with a specification, but most 100W LEDs are rated for 3.0 Amps, which will require somewhere between 32-35V DC. If you set your power supply to 30.0V, you aren't getting full brightness. You should set the Current Limit at 3.0A (or a slight bit less), and leave it there permanently. Then you can adjust the Voltage pot (like you have done) up to 35V maximum (before connecting it to the LED), and once you have it driving the LED, it will never exceed 3.0A no matter what, but will give FULL brightness when adjusted to your maximum voltage.
Another reason to use CV/CC regulation is that the voltage needed to maintain the proper LED current will change as the LED heats and cools. As it gets hotter, the "forward voltage" of the LED drops, which causes the LED to draw more current, which causes it to heat up more, which causes it to draw more current (if you don't also have Current Regulation)... and you end up in what's called "thermal runaway", and a burnt out LED... all because you aren't limiting or regulating the Current driving the LED.
Sorry... but as a lifelong EE, it's hard for me to just "pass by" and not say a "few" words... :-)
beforebefore Hi beforebefore, very interresting comment. If i would like to use a CV/CC to drive my LED, can you explain me how to set up the Current Limit to 3A with no load ? Does the CV/CC regulation really need more than genuine Heatsonk ? Thanks for your help
beforebefore Nice comment... going to look into these things before i make mine (already ordered the CV/CC regulator).Im sure you can answer these questions :)
1. You say that people should use 14,1v battery - does that mean that a regular lead acid 12v battery won't cut it (thats the only battery i have at the moment)?
2. Dimming function: if i decide to up the max voltage to 35v, how do i get a lower voltage of around 26v (or lower perhaps - what do you thing would be a good lower voltage for the lamp?) (when the pot i turned all the way down)? I'm guessing a different pot and/or other sized resistors needs to be used?
Thanks :)
sixbras I had begun responding, but browsed away from this page, and lost it. I'm making a little instructional video with this in mind... I'll come back and post the link right here when I get it finished.
beforebefore I can't wait for this! I buy CV/CC and wait for your instructionnal video. Can you explain where to place fuse, and how many amp to protect battery.
Daniel Gråskov If the CV/CC Boost Converter is rated for 11V minimum input voltage, you should be able to use a large 12v lead-acid battery (gel-cell or "SLA" I assume)... but it won't run very long, because the 100+ Watts of power from a 12V battery will be well over 8 Amps, which will run it down past 11V pretty fast, and may cause overheating of your DC converter. It would be best to use a pair of smaller Ah rated 12v lead-acid batteries connected in series, for 24V input. That would run much longer, and safer.
Maybe a better choice of regulator would be one like this: tinyurl.com/mqrvxjh
(it allows down to 5V input, and is in a NICE looking aluminum enclosure!... but clearly more money
Dimming -vs- pot resistance value. This depends on the design of the regulator. Sometimes increasing the resistance of the CV pot causes the voltage to increase, sometimes it's the opposite... it depends on the regulator/converter you use. This has to be determined for each regulator design. You can set the pot to one output voltage, turn it OFF, and measure (and record) the pot resistance and Voltage. Then adjust it to a different voltage, turn it OFF, and measure its resistance again... that will show you if you need higher or lower resistance to lower the output Voltage (which will "dim" the LED).
The LED chips usually begin lighting at a little over 2v each, the 100W LED's usually have a 10x10 array of LED chips, so 20V might be a good minimum "dimmed" voltage to start with. Be SURE to set the Current Limit (CC) to a bit less than the maximum current rating for your LED (typ. 3A) before you connect the LED... use a car headlamp or similar for a test load. You can set the converter output Voltage without a load connected.
I hope to remake my instructional video in a couple days... I tried once, and it failed - when the LED lit, it caused the automatic iris on the video camera to close down... I'll have to protect the camera from the bright LED light.
Nice build :-). Thanks for taking the time to put it out here for us!
I noticed your soldering is to hot and you had old solder on it that makes your soldering a bit bad.
I would suggest getting a better solder iron and also to wipe the tip with a wet sponge before each soldering, Before soldering a spot, add some fresh solder to the tip and before the flux have evaporated perform the soldering, you have about a 4 seconds window to do it.
It should make your soldering shiny and nice with some practice.
Best regards
//Harry
Harry Zachrisson Thanks for the tips!
@@DIYPerks none of this parts are available on ebay anymore what to do?
Brilliant video great explanation with a good clear voice thank you.
This looks so badass! I love the projects here man. Subscribing!
Thumbs up for the "Flight of the Navigator" reference.
I've built 2 of these into the lower mesh grill of my Mazda MX5 mark 1, fans not needed if your moving, totally illegal but very bright.
Might as well buy a proper light, hell of a lot brighter
It's exactly what I was searching for!
Great Job
Thank you so much for this guide. You are awesome, please keep up the excellent work!
I sure wish I had one of these in Alan Wake.
Chubzdoomer LOOOOOOOOL
Chubzdoomer Haha - that was my exact thought when I saw this, as I am currently playing the game for the first time! :D
Gabriel Stolarczyk Just one thing: Poets of the fall
You mean The Old Gods Of Asgard? ;-)
Gabriel Stolarczyk And the poet and the muse that OST is perfect to hear while you drink some beers!
Fantastic. I'd love to build one of my own. Would it be possible to add acrylic sheets to the inside of the frame to make it waterproof? Or would that make the heat build up too much?
As it is a fantastic flashlight, but I'd not want to ruin it by taking it out on a rainy evening.
I love the look of the heatsink on that thing... and have one lying around. I should do this project! :D
Finally completed my build! Thanks for the vid and inspiration!
1:27 trippy compression artifacting on the heatsink
this is very well done. props m8. keep doin what you do.
MacFyben very nice music choice too
MacFyben i agree
even tho your metal working skills are NOT existing, this is a pretty dope flashlight. cool project
I like how you used the main heat sink for cooling the boosting circuit.
perfect, just the thing I need for vampire slaying
A high power LED like the one in the video needs a constant current source (like a proper LED driver). If you just directly connect it to the step-up converter (as it is in this video), the lifetime of the LED will drastically sink. I actually recently used some 12V 10W LEDs in a project of mine. The forward current of those is 1050mA. I measured them (like 10 or so) and the corresponding voltage at 1,05A was in a wide range between 9-13V. If you are unlucky and got one that has 1,05A @ 9V and you would connect it to a step-up converter that outputs 12V, you would instantly fry the LED in a fraction of a second. The voltage also highly depends on the operating temperature, so there is actually no way around on using a constant current power source like a LED driver. Also: using a voltage regulation to dim a high power LED (which would not work with a constant current power source anyways), is not optimal. PWM should be used instead.
PWM can't be used for video work (which is what this project is aimed at) as they flicker and don't correlate well with camera sensors. Otherwise if you're not using it for video, use PWM.
Ike Fox a PWM signal of 1 kHz or above should not flicker at all. It would propably allready stop flickering at 200 Hz.
+Ike Fox what if I solder a high uf capacitor on the output?
This is so very inspiring for me as I do not have an HMI plus generator to film outdoor night scenes. I am impressed!
Nice - enjoyed the Flight of the Navigator reference!
18:24 .. Was that a bottle of HP sauce? Or am I going crazy?
Death ME TOO LOL
Death Because he said sauce not source.
Listen to what hes saying in the video
I literally died with laugher when I saw it
In his accent, "source" and "sauce" sound the same. He was making a joke.
18:25 You can connect this to any sauce😂😂😂
Awesome flight of the navigator reference
This is the coolest badass design ever and yes i enjoy this creative Art.
Thanks man
2:45 *You monster*
*_You barbarian_*
Also, the pads on the back of these mosfets are grounded, so it shouldn't matter if they make contact with the heat sink. In fact, the heat sink should be hooked up to common ground.
Damn im never going to do such thing or at least in the near future, but i watched the whole video from 0:00 to 21:42 its just so entertaining and made with so much love (no homo) that it makes me want that you make more videos! !
thank you so much!! u are my hero! Flight of the Navigator :D! I saw a part of this movie when i was kid but never watched it till the end. And i couldnt remember how the movie was called till now! I just thank u soooo sooo much!!!
Hi! I just found your page tonight. Wonderful instructional videos.
Thanks!
Epic!
That's pretty sweet top notch design
Hee, great video man. I have one question I could not find the answer to: 'what is the total weight of the product?' Keep up the good work
At least 2 kg from my calculations
DIY perks we love you!!!!
OMG Flight of the Navigator! I though I was the only one with good memories of this movie!
"...or you can rock them back and forth to snap them off"
AAAHHHHHHH! It is certainly effective though.
Wish it was amazon links or any other website other then eBay so the links would still work
the only link that didnt work for me was the led, www.amazon.com/Chanzon-6000K-6500K-Intensity-Components-Lighting/dp/B01DBZHUXA/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=100w+led+cob&qid=1566364135&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Imagine this man with proper workshop full of modern CNC machines, lasers cutters, brake press, milling machines, welders.
I love your videos! They are so fun to watch... Really want to make some of this stuff, but Im not patient enugh to buy stuff online. Keep up the good work!
"battery can be killed if shorted...", actually battery will catch on fire and violently explode with fiery mass flying everywhere if shorted.
So... can kill
He just simplified it to "killed"..
in other words: "Samsung Note 7"-ed
@@startrek0336 LoL you know what kind of phone terrorists like to carry around?
who else saw the HP sauce
+Jinyu Dai he says "it can be powered by any source" and it sounds like sauce
I saw it .
funny. 😂
Yeah, I was wondering what that was about.
It is nowadays new kind of AD. It takes only a few frames but our subconscious memorizes it.
you are something special my friend, great as always and exhausting...
The way you desoldered that trimpot at 3:48 makes baby Jesus cry.
Theon Greyjoy, last surviving son of Balon Greyjoy, Lord of the Iron Islands or REEEKKKKK!!!!
?
kind of ;)
he's now giving tips... as it were hahaha
lol its his eyes that made me think the exact same thing. Hahaha
"Exactly 30 volts!"
Meter shows 30.8 Volts...
Close enough lol!
IncapableLP as rule of thumb, any electronic thing can cope with 10% +-
amazing video and that explanations are slow and understandable love that
Bloody brilliant build... And you have NO IDEA how long I've been trying to remember The Flight of The Navigator!!! And yes, it does look like the computer... XD
Quick question. Why do you solder resistors to the potentiometers? What is their purpose?
+Hunter Coyhis Sets the minimum and maximum output voltage from the booster.
+Hunter Coyhis I was wondering that too.
+DIY Perks Awesome that makes a lot of sense now. thank you for the timely reply. I love your videos!
+Hunter Coyhis Cause pararerly connected two 10k potentiometers gives maximum final 5k resistance, it's too little. Simpliest electrical rules...
You can replace the blue one by constant resistor which will give you 30V on regulator output when potentiometer is fully "opened", just ask DIY Perks what value has his blue potentiometer set :)
+Spid88PL Thank you for this information! I am quite a novice to electronic systems (other than those little kits you can get to build a clock or other little trinkets that come with all the parts and instructions). I would have guessed that connecting 10K potentiometers in series would yield 20k resistance. Now, looking at the diagram in the video they are linked in parallel, not in series. Thanks again for clearing that up!
Hi, so i finally finished both your sunblaster and LED panel DIYs. I'm a professionnal cameraman and wanted to make my own lights (especially the sunblaster which seemed phenomenal). After having completed both projects and comparing them to a professional square foot light panel it seems that most of the energy is wasted in heat through both the power adapters and the lights themselves. Given the amount of time it takes to build either one, you'd be better off mowing lawns or working in a fast food and save the $600-$800 necessary to buy a cheap light panel. Professionnal use requires battery management and given the inefficiency of the lights themselves (absolutely nothing wrong with your DIYs), these can't be reliably used in a professional setting.
so no good for professional video ?? what a bummer!!!
+GroundUpProduct use better quality led's the efficiency of these cheap Chinese led's cant compare to the cree cxa or cxb series led's.
I have made a 5 led floodlight using cxa3070s and it is quiet efficient and also cooled with cpu coolers , and powered by some very efficient meanwell power supplies lpc60-1400 .
Google battlestar ganjatica its where i got the inspiration for my build i know the guy is using it as a grow light and not for professional lighting but these stoners are worried about efficiency and they have done the math
Buy more efficient, higher CRI LED's!
@MrJustsayinshit. Could you share how did you build it? what were costs? do you use lights in video work?
I could get my friend do electronics as im not good with those.
This DIY project was compared to a 1000W Halogen work-light though.
Then it is pretty efficient. Comparable light output and doesn't give off as much heat as a Halogen lamp even though it still needs cooling. With a sufficiently large heatsink you may skip the fan too. These LED modules are commonly used in street lights where they are always passively cooled.
Flight of the Navigator! 👍 I saw that movie in the theater... Man, I am old 😂.
awesome video and awesome project!
1:00 Tobey Maguire
I thought that too!
Exactly same..
pizza time
If you and colin furze got together it should make for some good watching !
Especially if they made a butt baby
Never thought of using aluminium angle like that. New skill added thanks :)
this is absolutely amazing!!!! I think Perk should teach us how to make 100w lazer.
my first attempt making this a capacitor blew up in my face lol, anyone trying to do this be very careful of short circuits
Cool project but I'm a bit confused.
I thought the LEDs must have a current limiting resistor to set the current flowing through on them. But in our case there's no resistors to do that.
Or the booster have some kind of current limiting?
Patrik Blaskovics No, but the current is limited at just under 3A as we're undervolting the LED. This keeps it cool and it should last for a very long time.
DIY Perks Ohh, I see. Thanks for the quick help! :)
I already ordered the parts, now I'm ready to build mine.
Good videos, keep on! :)
DIY Perks may you answer these? 1) would a 12v 9ah standard lead battery work? 2) is it possible to use a 150w or 200w led instead? what need to be changed?
Mark Bass Yes on both counts, but if you use a 200w LED you'll need to improve the cooling on the regulator significantly.
DIY Perks Thank you. i think i'll order 2 led 100w each and i'll start my project with one of them, than i'll try to add a second one than. thank you!
love this diy! just found your channel. thanks
I have always considered myself a bit of am amateur electrician, programmer, carpenter, ect... Maker in general but this man makes me feel like an infant with his level understanding and diversity within the multitude trades and hobbies he covers. Also I swear he only uses aluminium in such quantity so he can say it all the time. When I say it it makes me think of junk metal, when he says it, IDK, it makes me feel oddly comfortable and at ease with using this junk metal for absolutely anything.
0:46 wtf thought that was Michael Scofield lmao
DORC101 Nah man
Interesting design and cool but, as an electronics engineer I can tell you this much and hopefully it will improve upon the current design you have here.
First off you should clean and tin your solder irons tip regularly also that tip looks like its way too big for the job your doing, maybe it's the camera, idk..
You should have de-soldered the caps and regulators properly and used new caps will long enough leads to make your 90 deg bends.
You don't have any mechanical connections on any of the parts you did reuse (the use of "J" hooking leads before soldering) meaning your relying on the tinsel strength of the solder to hold them.
This thing heats up and if it heats up too far the solder joints you do have will re-flow and break apart. I have seen DIY repairs in TV sets in the past that heated up and broke apart and failed because the home Mr. fix-it all didn't make proper mechanical connections on components sniped out and replaced.
Your regulator transistors should have a proper insulator backplates on them with nylon inserts to you can screw them onto the CPU coolers block via a tapped & threaded hole.
The regulator transistors also need heat shrink tubing to isolate the least from each other and the CPU coolers metal.
The transistors leads and the variable voltage dividers leads should have been soldered back through the holes in the PCB instead of being tacked onto the pads. This is a good way to tear the pads and traces off the PCB especially is the leads get put under stress from being mounted and routed.
The LED and cooler block insulation can be similar to how you would do the regulator transistors with the thermal insulator material between the two.
Your power (battery) connector maybe you should choose a more ISO type like and Anderson type instead of a substandard XT60 type..The Anderson connectors are dovetailed so you can join them side-by-side and the wires can be heat shrink-ed up and made to look neater than using electrical tape. There are no exposed parts in other words.
The LED COB - Are you sure all the LED chips in the COB are working? There is about a 98% fulty chance when buying one of those cheap 100w COBs. If all the chips are not working then your NOT getting all your brightness and still sucking all the power and straining the remaining chips, the COB will eventually fail totally.
You might want to variable current test the COB to see if all the rows are lighting up equally and make note of the suppliers who have bad ones and good ones.
Just look at Bigclivedotcoms channel for some insight on LED COBs and the cheap ebay ones and so on..
My goal here is not to bash your design because I find it quite cool indeed, you did an awesome job on the housing but your electronics need some minor work to help ensure against failure.
Your comments are much appreciated; thanks for taking the time to write it. I've taken down some notes for the future.
About the COB LED: I'm aware of some cheaper ones being improperly binned, but the ones I have bought have all performed well in regards to uniformity, all being lit equally even at lower voltages. I agree that some kind of 'good supplier' list would be very helpful, as the bad ones really aren't worth buying.
Retsu Ichijouji Says the guy who up-votes his own comment.. So I made a mistake but I'm not stopping the video to nitpick part numbers but if you must do so and it helps you sleep at night then so be it..
I am trying to help the guy make his project better and more reliable, what are you doing beside trying to make yourself look smart?
Your comment has contributed nothing but a sad attempt to troll. Get lost.
So, someone makes a mistake, which is something normal human beings do, it is ok for you to call them a liar? I mean the guy even said he made a mistake and yet you still comment insulting them and people are to magically look at you as some sort of idubbbzTV, content cop wanna be? Get a life bro.
ElfNet Gaming speaking of bad grammar
ElfNet Gaming; just wanted to say, i was very impressed with your original comment, its awesome when people take the time out to try and help others.
Man I just love your videos
Used these LED's as headlights on my car. Works great.
none of the links work
The video is 9 years old. What did you expect
Ohh and do you think a small stock intel or amd cooler could do the trick too ?
HIXMF Possibly, yes, but you'll probably have to run the fan quite fast so it might get a bit noisy.
thanks for the reply ! just what i thought ! Keep up the amazing work !
HIXMF Liquid cool it!
Considering a 100W LED is like a 100W CPU processor, a stock cooler can get quite loud. A big fan cooler can certainly help a lot.
***** the trick is that a led has a efficencie of about 95%. i dont know what a cpu has but i would estimate like 40%. so a 100w wont nearly get as hot as a 100w cpu.
Very talented fella fair play, I love watching your creative videos, there well interesting
I have that same heat sink in my computer, glad to know I can reuse it when I change my pc.
what wattage does the 11K resistor need to be rated for? thanks!
+Exotic Toucan can i use 2 1/4 watt resistors?
cool, ty
+Exotic Toucan can i use 2 watt 11k resistors?
i dont understand the use of the 11k ohm resistance
@@ighishi, the original resistance of the potentiometer is 10k. He is replacing it with two 11k in parallel and two 10k potentiometers in parallel (not exactly, but the idea is this) and ends up with 5.5k of fixed resistance and 5k adjustable resistance on top of that.
I wanted to see the flashlight in spotlight mode :(
Laser mode would be pretty wild.
stunning, just stunning!!!!!!
Mind blowing dude, a million likes 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍