ThaTyger I guess the real question is what would an equivalent product cost if purchased retail. My gut feeling is that it would probably be pretty pricey for something as bright as this, though I haven't actually looked into it. Plus for some I'm sure the whole "DIY" aspect alone makes it worth while! haha
The LED he uses produces 7500 lumens. Find a flashlight that produces roughly the same and you have your answer. Here's one on Ebay for $150 usd www.ebay.com/itm/SKYRAY-7000-Lumens-4x-CREE-XM-L-U2-LED-Flashlight-Torch-4x-18650-Battery-Charger-/321448134144
Walter Boxhead It actually looks pretty similar to this awesome one I found: www.opticsplanet.com/olight-x6-marauder-5000-lumen-rechargable-led-searchlight.html
hi matt and other diy'ers. I just made the sun-blaster myself and have some things to say for when you want to make this foro yourself (these are things i have come across while building) . first of all: when bending the aluminium profiles, you must heat them up with a flame, otherwise they crack( happend to me) second: the new heatsink that is linked does not have a apropriot bracket to mount to the aluminium, you have to buy a separet bracket. and last: mounting the regulator to the side without desoledering the capacators and the heatsinks from the regulator works fine, it stays cool enough it was a very nice project to make! thanks diy perks for making the tutorial, keep it up! greetings from belgium
@Mickey Mouse I know this is a little old and a woosh moment (for me) but The Sun releases an estimated 384.6 yotta watts (3.846×1026 watts) of energy in the form of light and other forms of radiation.
Nice build :-). Thanks for taking the time to put it out here for us! I noticed your soldering is to hot and you had old solder on it that makes your soldering a bit bad. I would suggest getting a better solder iron and also to wipe the tip with a wet sponge before each soldering, Before soldering a spot, add some fresh solder to the tip and before the flux have evaporated perform the soldering, you have about a 4 seconds window to do it. It should make your soldering shiny and nice with some practice. Best regards //Harry
That's awesome! You even provided a parts list nice one! I'd love to see how far you could take "hand held" LED lights. You cold do something insane if you used a backpack for batteries and/or cooling. Perhaps the backpack could be optional for boosting intensity/increasing longevity? A lense with a bat symbol would be really cool!
Thank you for showing your work step by step, in addition to the full report and very helpful about where to find the components. The images were very well made, have a notion very close to the reality of the power of this flashlight. Inspired me a lot!
18:24 - Blip of a picture of a bottle that says "HP SAUCE, Don't bring home the bacon without it"... Subliminal messaging? This is an amazing video BTW keep it up!
I've watched couple of these Matt's videos. Once this one started I realized that I had seen his first video about a DIY follow focus 8 years ago. Wow! He's gone and done some really cool things since then!
Or get charged with assault/assisted manslaughter, for permanently blinding (or worse) an innocent man from Transylvania, named John, that happens to loosely look like a vampire...
Op is taking time to explain to us how to make a cool gadget. Thanks OP. I am at a loss as to what the negatives are saying. No need and totally unwarranted in my opinion. Keep up the work. I'll be taking some of your concepts and applying them to my mega torch build. Thanks for the inspiration. Keep the internet free and safe for all.
Took me too long to realise the significance of the HP Sauce at 18:25 :) A hint for the longer videos though: add an index to take viewers straight to any key steps. I put one at the beginning of mine and copy the index text into the video description, TH-cam then automatically turns the times into links. Brilliant video, if you'll excuse the pun :)
A high power LED like the one in the video needs a constant current source (like a proper LED driver). If you just directly connect it to the step-up converter (as it is in this video), the lifetime of the LED will drastically sink. I actually recently used some 12V 10W LEDs in a project of mine. The forward current of those is 1050mA. I measured them (like 10 or so) and the corresponding voltage at 1,05A was in a wide range between 9-13V. If you are unlucky and got one that has 1,05A @ 9V and you would connect it to a step-up converter that outputs 12V, you would instantly fry the LED in a fraction of a second. The voltage also highly depends on the operating temperature, so there is actually no way around on using a constant current power source like a LED driver. Also: using a voltage regulation to dim a high power LED (which would not work with a constant current power source anyways), is not optimal. PWM should be used instead.
PWM can't be used for video work (which is what this project is aimed at) as they flicker and don't correlate well with camera sensors. Otherwise if you're not using it for video, use PWM.
I have always considered myself a bit of am amateur electrician, programmer, carpenter, ect... Maker in general but this man makes me feel like an infant with his level understanding and diversity within the multitude trades and hobbies he covers. Also I swear he only uses aluminium in such quantity so he can say it all the time. When I say it it makes me think of junk metal, when he says it, IDK, it makes me feel oddly comfortable and at ease with using this junk metal for absolutely anything.
VERRRY nice video work (nice motion tracking, animated dimensioning bits and pieces, spotlighting areas of interest, etc.), and I really like your mechanical fabrication work, but you might do well to learn a bit more about electronics before taking on projects like this. Those 2 devices you broke off of the Boost regulator are not IC's... one is a dual diode, the other is a MOSFET transistor... and it's CRITICAL that they don't get swapped one for the other... if so, the release of the magic smoke will happen... and the regulator board will no longer function without that magic smoke.... Then you reeeeally should use proper TO-220 mounting kit with insulators... expecting "thermal paste" to be the insulation is a bad idea, and it exposes them to possible short-circuit if a tiny metal bit gets lodged in there. When working with such large Lithium batteries, you have a real potential for life-threatening fires... what happens if a short circuit happens when it's in someone's closet? USE FUSES... (ever seen videos of Lithium battery fires?) Extending the MOSFET leads can lead to instabilities in the high frequency switching regulator as well... it's just not a good idea... but if you must, keep the leads as short as possible, and use some silicone rubber over the solder joints where you solder the wires to the Diode and MOSFET. Also, you selected the wrong Boost Regulator for using with an LED. To get maximum brightness from the LED, and yet protect it from burning out, you need to use a Current Regulator.... not just a voltage regulator. Get one with "CV CC" regulation... which has both Voltage and Current regulation. LED's are Current driven devices, and the only way to be SURE you have the proper driving current, is with a current regulating (limiting) power supply... such as: tinyurl.com/o77mcmg . This brings in another issue, you really need to let people know they need to use a Lithium battery with at least 14.1V (4 cells in series) for a CV/CC boost regulator, anything less than that wont' be enough voltage (they require NO LESS than 11-12V to run). It will run longer with even more cells in series, since the power converter stays more efficient with higher input voltages. You can then set the alarm voltage to 3.0V per cell, which is the standard rating... and it will run even longer. (be certain to use a proper battery charger for whatever battery you end up using!) Example battery pack: tinyurl.com/mlezlpl That LED should come with a specification, but most 100W LEDs are rated for 3.0 Amps, which will require somewhere between 32-35V DC. If you set your power supply to 30.0V, you aren't getting full brightness. You should set the Current Limit at 3.0A (or a slight bit less), and leave it there permanently. Then you can adjust the Voltage pot (like you have done) up to 35V maximum (before connecting it to the LED), and once you have it driving the LED, it will never exceed 3.0A no matter what, but will give FULL brightness when adjusted to your maximum voltage. Another reason to use CV/CC regulation is that the voltage needed to maintain the proper LED current will change as the LED heats and cools. As it gets hotter, the "forward voltage" of the LED drops, which causes the LED to draw more current, which causes it to heat up more, which causes it to draw more current (if you don't also have Current Regulation)... and you end up in what's called "thermal runaway", and a burnt out LED... all because you aren't limiting or regulating the Current driving the LED. Sorry... but as a lifelong EE, it's hard for me to just "pass by" and not say a "few" words... :-)
beforebefore Hi beforebefore, very interresting comment. If i would like to use a CV/CC to drive my LED, can you explain me how to set up the Current Limit to 3A with no load ? Does the CV/CC regulation really need more than genuine Heatsonk ? Thanks for your help
beforebefore Nice comment... going to look into these things before i make mine (already ordered the CV/CC regulator).Im sure you can answer these questions :) 1. You say that people should use 14,1v battery - does that mean that a regular lead acid 12v battery won't cut it (thats the only battery i have at the moment)? 2. Dimming function: if i decide to up the max voltage to 35v, how do i get a lower voltage of around 26v (or lower perhaps - what do you thing would be a good lower voltage for the lamp?) (when the pot i turned all the way down)? I'm guessing a different pot and/or other sized resistors needs to be used? Thanks :)
sixbras I had begun responding, but browsed away from this page, and lost it. I'm making a little instructional video with this in mind... I'll come back and post the link right here when I get it finished.
beforebefore I can't wait for this! I buy CV/CC and wait for your instructionnal video. Can you explain where to place fuse, and how many amp to protect battery.
Daniel Gråskov If the CV/CC Boost Converter is rated for 11V minimum input voltage, you should be able to use a large 12v lead-acid battery (gel-cell or "SLA" I assume)... but it won't run very long, because the 100+ Watts of power from a 12V battery will be well over 8 Amps, which will run it down past 11V pretty fast, and may cause overheating of your DC converter. It would be best to use a pair of smaller Ah rated 12v lead-acid batteries connected in series, for 24V input. That would run much longer, and safer. Maybe a better choice of regulator would be one like this: tinyurl.com/mqrvxjh (it allows down to 5V input, and is in a NICE looking aluminum enclosure!... but clearly more money Dimming -vs- pot resistance value. This depends on the design of the regulator. Sometimes increasing the resistance of the CV pot causes the voltage to increase, sometimes it's the opposite... it depends on the regulator/converter you use. This has to be determined for each regulator design. You can set the pot to one output voltage, turn it OFF, and measure (and record) the pot resistance and Voltage. Then adjust it to a different voltage, turn it OFF, and measure its resistance again... that will show you if you need higher or lower resistance to lower the output Voltage (which will "dim" the LED). The LED chips usually begin lighting at a little over 2v each, the 100W LED's usually have a 10x10 array of LED chips, so 20V might be a good minimum "dimmed" voltage to start with. Be SURE to set the Current Limit (CC) to a bit less than the maximum current rating for your LED (typ. 3A) before you connect the LED... use a car headlamp or similar for a test load. You can set the converter output Voltage without a load connected. I hope to remake my instructional video in a couple days... I tried once, and it failed - when the LED lit, it caused the automatic iris on the video camera to close down... I'll have to protect the camera from the bright LED light.
the only link that didnt work for me was the led, www.amazon.com/Chanzon-6000K-6500K-Intensity-Components-Lighting/dp/B01DBZHUXA/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=100w+led+cob&qid=1566364135&s=gateway&sr=8-4
He has great DYI vids . One thing I do miss about his vids is at the end when he used to say the typically English "Tarra" (Tara) . As a American Tarra always made me think > Yep typically English . :) Keep up the great DIY's !
+Hunter Coyhis Cause pararerly connected two 10k potentiometers gives maximum final 5k resistance, it's too little. Simpliest electrical rules... You can replace the blue one by constant resistor which will give you 30V on regulator output when potentiometer is fully "opened", just ask DIY Perks what value has his blue potentiometer set :)
+Spid88PL Thank you for this information! I am quite a novice to electronic systems (other than those little kits you can get to build a clock or other little trinkets that come with all the parts and instructions). I would have guessed that connecting 10K potentiometers in series would yield 20k resistance. Now, looking at the diagram in the video they are linked in parallel, not in series. Thanks again for clearing that up!
Fantastic. I'd love to build one of my own. Would it be possible to add acrylic sheets to the inside of the frame to make it waterproof? Or would that make the heat build up too much? As it is a fantastic flashlight, but I'd not want to ruin it by taking it out on a rainy evening.
Hi, so i finally finished both your sunblaster and LED panel DIYs. I'm a professionnal cameraman and wanted to make my own lights (especially the sunblaster which seemed phenomenal). After having completed both projects and comparing them to a professional square foot light panel it seems that most of the energy is wasted in heat through both the power adapters and the lights themselves. Given the amount of time it takes to build either one, you'd be better off mowing lawns or working in a fast food and save the $600-$800 necessary to buy a cheap light panel. Professionnal use requires battery management and given the inefficiency of the lights themselves (absolutely nothing wrong with your DIYs), these can't be reliably used in a professional setting.
+GroundUpProduct use better quality led's the efficiency of these cheap Chinese led's cant compare to the cree cxa or cxb series led's. I have made a 5 led floodlight using cxa3070s and it is quiet efficient and also cooled with cpu coolers , and powered by some very efficient meanwell power supplies lpc60-1400 . Google battlestar ganjatica its where i got the inspiration for my build i know the guy is using it as a grow light and not for professional lighting but these stoners are worried about efficiency and they have done the math
@MrJustsayinshit. Could you share how did you build it? what were costs? do you use lights in video work? I could get my friend do electronics as im not good with those.
This DIY project was compared to a 1000W Halogen work-light though. Then it is pretty efficient. Comparable light output and doesn't give off as much heat as a Halogen lamp even though it still needs cooling. With a sufficiently large heatsink you may skip the fan too. These LED modules are commonly used in street lights where they are always passively cooled.
To be honest: I have no idea of electronics and I really do not intend to build such a thing. But also I totally enjoyed watching the video. Thanks for the entertainment ^^
Damn im never going to do such thing or at least in the near future, but i watched the whole video from 0:00 to 21:42 its just so entertaining and made with so much love (no homo) that it makes me want that you make more videos! !
***** the trick is that a led has a efficencie of about 95%. i dont know what a cpu has but i would estimate like 40%. so a 100w wont nearly get as hot as a 100w cpu.
Also, the pads on the back of these mosfets are grounded, so it shouldn't matter if they make contact with the heat sink. In fact, the heat sink should be hooked up to common ground.
I've wanted to build this for roughly two years, and received a CPU cooler for free roughly 8 months ago. Finally ordered the rest of the parts yesterday, can't wait to build it :)
I got mine on amazon - a company called Lohas carries them, in both warm and cool. I got a warm one, it looks great. just search "LOHAS 100w LED chip" on amazon, it should come right up. If you can't find anything else, let me know, i'll show you where to find it.
+Gus Wilkens This is not accurate. The battery he's using is about the equivalent of 2 18650 batteries. My light has 4 good 18650s and can barely last 20 mins. There's something fishy about his claim. Guys, don't use the battery he uses. That's just a bad choice.
+Nonnof Yobiznes taht's not true. He is using 8000mah (i'm not 100% sure ) 4cell wich is 14.4v discharged. if you use two 18650 you will get 2300mah and 7.4v or 4600mah 3.7v. thats not equvialent..
+Jirka Cvrcek Oh, OK. I didn't see last part of the vid. When I saw so many wrong things about it I stopped when he was making the framing already. I assumed he'd use the 3500mAh battery he put in the description. But let's see the numbers If he's using the 4 cell battery, then it's about $70. For that money, you can get 14 good 25Rs (rated at 2500mAh) which equal to 35,000mAh. That's more than four times the amount of power for the money.
+DIY Perks Hey man love this project my friends and I are going to build it for our drones, but I had a quick question regarding your links - You linked this product on eBay (ebay(dot)com/itm/371042744391?rmvSB=true), and I was a tad bit confused, is this the heatsink required, the fan, the lens, and the mount that you attach the LED to? Thanks mate, hope you see this so that I can get cracking :)
no but the flashlight is worth that look up what a 8000 lumen to 10000 lumen flashlight is worth and this guy could make a killing not everyone is good with making things, and I like the designs as well.
@@ighishi, the original resistance of the potentiometer is 10k. He is replacing it with two 11k in parallel and two 10k potentiometers in parallel (not exactly, but the idea is this) and ends up with 5.5k of fixed resistance and 5k adjustable resistance on top of that.
Haha excellent. Get a decent soldering iron with a smaller bit; a calibrated adjustable Weller if you can afford one! You will thank me for it later. And clean the bit with a wet sponge before use each time. If the bit becomes covered in oxidisation you can clean it with a file. When the bit wears down, replace it. Ensure all the joint (both parts) are sufficiently hot before soldering. You can do this by "tinning" the soldering bit in advance and then use the tin to heat the joint, it will help the solder flow and adhere, but do not overheat or it will burn off the pads. Also use pre-fluxed solder. I have ESA qualifications in Hand Solder btw. Enjoy ;-)
+ToperMasterComedy What's anything got to do with my accent..... No - there is a photo of a HP SAUCE bottle at 18:25 in the video - pause the video at 18:25 and you will see!
He said in more than one spot something about 100W this would be make sence since the factor for powerconsumption from LEDs and Lightbulbs for the same lightoutput is around 10.
You set the battery voltage warning at 3V which is the limit per cell. However, the pack you used is three cells, so the warning level should be 9V, and the monitoring leads should be connected to the battery terminals.
1000w equivalent, led only 100w. www.amazon.com/Chanzon-6000K-6500K-Intensity-Components-Lighting/dp/B01DBZHUXA/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=100w+led+cob&qid=1566364135&s=gateway&sr=8-4
I liked the video & I plan to build something very similar. I've read several of the posts & though I agree with a few posts down about execution issues I don't wanna be rude. I have Mil-Spec solder training working for a defense contractor that builds military batteries & also many years of soldering experience from radio controlled hobbies. So the solder skills used here made me cringe but I also understand the spirit of the video from a regular DIYer. One thing I will criticize.... HEATSHRINK!. Insulate all those solder joints. I've got a pile of Kokam 4000 mAh Lipo cells & several spare computer CPU coolers. Time to get to building :)
The intel stock cooler will struggle to keep it cool without having the fan running at maximum (very loud). It's designed for 50-70w CPUs, this outputs closer to 100w of heat.
I wanted to use standard tools so as to not put off potential builders who have less experience. That's literally the only reason why I bent off the mosfets etc rather than desoldering them - it's just plain easier and quicker.
+DIY Perks Good point but still for ones that are new to DIY should be shown how to do things right and with the right tools, the way you did it works but can be unsafe for some who are young! Good job tho an I like just about all your projects. keep up the good work :)
justtesting555 You can try to calculate the geometry of their own (there is a special software for this) and printed on a 3D printer. Sand and cover by electrochemical galvanization. Chromium or aluminum, with subsequent polishing.
+easyelectronics reflectors do nothing to help these 180 degree emitters. the reflector is a plane behind the led and the collimator lens interfaces it well. because of the cool nature of the LEDs output heat stress on the lens (which happens to be glass) is obviated.
I have built one of these out of an ammo can and its bright but pales in comparison to my Imalent R60C and MS18. Still a fun project and it was the brightest light at the time i built it.
He could read for a children's audio book. The most delightful voice on TH-cam, I swear.
+Ano Nymous No the best voice on youtube is definitley Boo's. Just look up Booman61.
thatguywithavoice is a good contestant
+Viking War Pickle Bob Ross is best
[TherOnly]Lord Pistachio Too bad he's not currently alive.
Viking War Pickle i know
Why does this guy look super happy!! It makes me happy to see how happy this guy looks
Your dedication to putting people’s mind at ease with “don’t worry I’m going to cover this better in a moment” is commendable.
You too can build this in only 6000 easy steps.
The more complicated the better, i make things because i really like making things, not because i only care about the end result
""""""""""""""""""""""easy""""""""""""""""""""""
YES ：）
@@Impetuss I like the light so I make it.
people who want fewer easy steps can go buy one at a shop and learn nothing in the process
"Can be built for around £25 " shame the battery alone is 46 dollars ;)
Still I like this project, it looks very professional and very useful :)
Yeah, and even if I didn't want the 100W LED to fly across the globe to me, it would still be around 32£
ThaTyger I guess the real question is what would an equivalent product cost if purchased retail. My gut feeling is that it would probably be pretty pricey for something as bright as this, though I haven't actually looked into it. Plus for some I'm sure the whole "DIY" aspect alone makes it worth while! haha
The LED he uses produces 7500 lumens. Find a flashlight that produces roughly the same and you have your answer.
Here's one on Ebay for $150 usd www.ebay.com/itm/SKYRAY-7000-Lumens-4x-CREE-XM-L-U2-LED-Flashlight-Torch-4x-18650-Battery-Charger-/321448134144
Walter Boxhead It actually looks pretty similar to this awesome one I found:
www.opticsplanet.com/olight-x6-marauder-5000-lumen-rechargable-led-searchlight.html
He said if you can get the cpu cooler for cheap
hi matt and other diy'ers. I just made the sun-blaster myself and have some things to say for when you want to make this foro yourself (these are things i have come across while building) .
first of all: when bending the aluminium profiles, you must heat them up with a flame, otherwise they crack( happend to me)
second: the new heatsink that is linked does not have a apropriot bracket to mount to the aluminium, you have to buy a separet bracket.
and last: mounting the regulator to the side without desoledering the capacators and the heatsinks from the regulator works fine, it stays cool enough
it was a very nice project to make! thanks diy perks for making the tutorial, keep it up!
greetings from belgium
I have literally no hope of being able to follow the instructions but it was fun to watch.
Only because the video tutorial runs so fast. It probably took him over a week to design and make, and another week to produce the video.
And also the lack of experience with electronics
Actually there was very little electricians involved. Apart from the inverter board which he purchased, it was just soldering connections.
*eletronics
MattBlytheTheOne but still it would be quite challenging for a total beginner
Nobody:
DIY Perks: Builds a handheld version of the fucking sun.
I think the sun is a bit more powerful than 100W
@@abnormaalz i think the obvious over exaggeration of this mans comment flew right over your head memester ^^
@@GreasyOaf ah, all this time I was convinced this man was being serious. Thank you for the clarification boss
⠀ mother of god....
@Mickey Mouse I know this is a little old and a woosh moment (for me) but The Sun releases an estimated 384.6 yotta watts (3.846×1026 watts) of energy in the form of light and other forms of radiation.
Even though I have absolutely no idea what you're talking about 90% of the time, I still find your videos so enjoyable! Good job!
Nice build :-). Thanks for taking the time to put it out here for us!
I noticed your soldering is to hot and you had old solder on it that makes your soldering a bit bad.
I would suggest getting a better solder iron and also to wipe the tip with a wet sponge before each soldering, Before soldering a spot, add some fresh solder to the tip and before the flux have evaporated perform the soldering, you have about a 4 seconds window to do it.
It should make your soldering shiny and nice with some practice.
Best regards
//Harry
Harry Zachrisson Thanks for the tips!
@@DIYPerks none of this parts are available on ebay anymore what to do?
I love the lego 1x4 spacer block. no diy project can go without Lego.
I made a spotlight version of this with a motion detector and mounted it on a pole. Funny to watch ppl get startled on my security cameras.
Evil 😂😂😂👌
R/madlads
This deserves a TH-cam video
Yes Please Show Us A Video Of This
Fellow Canadian
That's awesome! You even provided a parts list nice one! I'd love to see how far you could take "hand held" LED lights. You cold do something insane if you used a backpack for batteries and/or cooling. Perhaps the backpack could be optional for boosting intensity/increasing longevity? A lense with a bat symbol would be really cool!
Thank you for showing your work step by step, in addition to the full report and very helpful about where to find the components. The images were very well made, have a notion very close to the reality of the power of this flashlight. Inspired me a lot!
even tho your metal working skills are NOT existing, this is a pretty dope flashlight. cool project
Before watching: Oh man, I can't wait to make one of these
After watching: Nevermind
18:24 - Blip of a picture of a bottle that says "HP SAUCE, Don't bring home the bacon without it"... Subliminal messaging? This is an amazing video BTW keep it up!
It's because of his accent, Isn't it BARNACULES? I know how you roll.
So creative
Barnacules Nerdgasm At first I only subscribed to you because you comment on all the videos I watch XD
+The dog pets
1÷=
Barnacules Nerdgasm you must buy me 🤤
I've watched couple of these Matt's videos. Once this one started I realized that I had seen his first video about a DIY follow focus 8 years ago. Wow! He's gone and done some really cool things since then!
Not only is this an awesome DIY project, but also Incredibly well-produced! Great work, subscribed.
As'{Iq&X9D_u|aNJ~8ESwXSEX?&W#I/-.]
&
You could kill Dracula 🧛♂️ with that.
Or get charged with assault/assisted manslaughter, for permanently blinding (or worse) an innocent man from Transylvania, named John, that happens to loosely look like a vampire...
how did court go
@@Java_Protogen lmao
Madara uciha has been revived
Op is taking time to explain to us how to make a cool gadget. Thanks OP. I am at a loss as to what the negatives are saying. No need and totally unwarranted in my opinion. Keep up the work. I'll be taking some of your concepts and applying them to my mega torch build. Thanks for the inspiration. Keep the internet free and safe for all.
Took me too long to realise the significance of the HP Sauce at 18:25 :)
A hint for the longer videos though: add an index to take viewers straight to any key steps. I put one at the beginning of mine and copy the index text into the video description, TH-cam then automatically turns the times into links.
Brilliant video, if you'll excuse the pun :)
Quick tip:
Use some heat shrink tubing instead of this crappy electrical tape!
Reth Tard no
NO
No.
Exactly what I thought of.
No nooooob
The way you desoldered that trimpot at 3:48 makes baby Jesus cry.
A high power LED like the one in the video needs a constant current source (like a proper LED driver). If you just directly connect it to the step-up converter (as it is in this video), the lifetime of the LED will drastically sink. I actually recently used some 12V 10W LEDs in a project of mine. The forward current of those is 1050mA. I measured them (like 10 or so) and the corresponding voltage at 1,05A was in a wide range between 9-13V. If you are unlucky and got one that has 1,05A @ 9V and you would connect it to a step-up converter that outputs 12V, you would instantly fry the LED in a fraction of a second. The voltage also highly depends on the operating temperature, so there is actually no way around on using a constant current power source like a LED driver. Also: using a voltage regulation to dim a high power LED (which would not work with a constant current power source anyways), is not optimal. PWM should be used instead.
PWM can't be used for video work (which is what this project is aimed at) as they flicker and don't correlate well with camera sensors. Otherwise if you're not using it for video, use PWM.
Ike Fox a PWM signal of 1 kHz or above should not flicker at all. It would propably allready stop flickering at 200 Hz.
+Ike Fox what if I solder a high uf capacitor on the output?
I can only imagine the amount of work put onto projecting, building and editing. Awesome work! Please keep it up :)
I do miss/wouldn't mind you makeing video's like these ( builds and build quality) every now and then. Like one a year special video
he said ”the light can be powered by any sauce" then HP sauce pops up. lmao 18:23
It would be funnier if Michael from VSauce poped up
Its 18:25
I've built 2 of these into the lower mesh grill of my Mazda MX5 mark 1, fans not needed if your moving, totally illegal but very bright.
Might as well buy a proper light, hell of a lot brighter
Yet again, a fantastically comprehensive video
Another awesome video man. Only watched 30 seconds so far but know the next 21 minutes will be epic :D
Hot damn, that's ingenious, I need to make one of these, and I've got a pretty large old heatsink I could use.
I have always considered myself a bit of am amateur electrician, programmer, carpenter, ect... Maker in general but this man makes me feel like an infant with his level understanding and diversity within the multitude trades and hobbies he covers. Also I swear he only uses aluminium in such quantity so he can say it all the time. When I say it it makes me think of junk metal, when he says it, IDK, it makes me feel oddly comfortable and at ease with using this junk metal for absolutely anything.
Thumbs up for the "Flight of the Navigator" reference.
I sure wish I had one of these in Alan Wake.
Chubzdoomer LOOOOOOOOL
Chubzdoomer Haha - that was my exact thought when I saw this, as I am currently playing the game for the first time! :D
Gabriel Stolarczyk Just one thing: Poets of the fall
You mean The Old Gods Of Asgard? ;-)
Gabriel Stolarczyk And the poet and the muse that OST is perfect to hear while you drink some beers!
I am sorry but what you are doing here with aluminium is ART ! You are an aluminium fairy.
VERRRY nice video work (nice motion tracking, animated dimensioning bits and pieces, spotlighting areas of interest, etc.), and I really like your mechanical fabrication work, but you might do well to learn a bit more about electronics before taking on projects like this.
Those 2 devices you broke off of the Boost regulator are not IC's... one is a dual diode, the other is a MOSFET transistor... and it's CRITICAL that they don't get swapped one for the other... if so, the release of the magic smoke will happen... and the regulator board will no longer function without that magic smoke....
Then you reeeeally should use proper TO-220 mounting kit with insulators... expecting "thermal paste" to be the insulation is a bad idea, and it exposes them to possible short-circuit if a tiny metal bit gets lodged in there.
When working with such large Lithium batteries, you have a real potential for life-threatening fires... what happens if a short circuit happens when it's in someone's closet? USE FUSES... (ever seen videos of Lithium battery fires?)
Extending the MOSFET leads can lead to instabilities in the high frequency switching regulator as well... it's just not a good idea... but if you must, keep the leads as short as possible, and use some silicone rubber over the solder joints where you solder the wires to the Diode and MOSFET.
Also, you selected the wrong Boost Regulator for using with an LED. To get maximum brightness from the LED, and yet protect it from burning out, you need to use a Current Regulator.... not just a voltage regulator. Get one with "CV CC" regulation... which has both Voltage and Current regulation. LED's are Current driven devices, and the only way to be SURE you have the proper driving current, is with a current regulating (limiting) power supply... such as: tinyurl.com/o77mcmg .
This brings in another issue, you really need to let people know they need to use a Lithium battery with at least 14.1V (4 cells in series) for a CV/CC boost regulator, anything less than that wont' be enough voltage (they require NO LESS than 11-12V to run). It will run longer with even more cells in series, since the power converter stays more efficient with higher input voltages. You can then set the alarm voltage to 3.0V per cell, which is the standard rating... and it will run even longer. (be certain to use a proper battery charger for whatever battery you end up using!)
Example battery pack: tinyurl.com/mlezlpl
That LED should come with a specification, but most 100W LEDs are rated for 3.0 Amps, which will require somewhere between 32-35V DC. If you set your power supply to 30.0V, you aren't getting full brightness. You should set the Current Limit at 3.0A (or a slight bit less), and leave it there permanently. Then you can adjust the Voltage pot (like you have done) up to 35V maximum (before connecting it to the LED), and once you have it driving the LED, it will never exceed 3.0A no matter what, but will give FULL brightness when adjusted to your maximum voltage.
Another reason to use CV/CC regulation is that the voltage needed to maintain the proper LED current will change as the LED heats and cools. As it gets hotter, the "forward voltage" of the LED drops, which causes the LED to draw more current, which causes it to heat up more, which causes it to draw more current (if you don't also have Current Regulation)... and you end up in what's called "thermal runaway", and a burnt out LED... all because you aren't limiting or regulating the Current driving the LED.
Sorry... but as a lifelong EE, it's hard for me to just "pass by" and not say a "few" words... :-)
beforebefore Hi beforebefore, very interresting comment. If i would like to use a CV/CC to drive my LED, can you explain me how to set up the Current Limit to 3A with no load ? Does the CV/CC regulation really need more than genuine Heatsonk ? Thanks for your help
beforebefore Nice comment... going to look into these things before i make mine (already ordered the CV/CC regulator).Im sure you can answer these questions :)
1. You say that people should use 14,1v battery - does that mean that a regular lead acid 12v battery won't cut it (thats the only battery i have at the moment)?
2. Dimming function: if i decide to up the max voltage to 35v, how do i get a lower voltage of around 26v (or lower perhaps - what do you thing would be a good lower voltage for the lamp?) (when the pot i turned all the way down)? I'm guessing a different pot and/or other sized resistors needs to be used?
Thanks :)
sixbras I had begun responding, but browsed away from this page, and lost it. I'm making a little instructional video with this in mind... I'll come back and post the link right here when I get it finished.
beforebefore I can't wait for this! I buy CV/CC and wait for your instructionnal video. Can you explain where to place fuse, and how many amp to protect battery.
Daniel Gråskov If the CV/CC Boost Converter is rated for 11V minimum input voltage, you should be able to use a large 12v lead-acid battery (gel-cell or "SLA" I assume)... but it won't run very long, because the 100+ Watts of power from a 12V battery will be well over 8 Amps, which will run it down past 11V pretty fast, and may cause overheating of your DC converter. It would be best to use a pair of smaller Ah rated 12v lead-acid batteries connected in series, for 24V input. That would run much longer, and safer.
Maybe a better choice of regulator would be one like this: tinyurl.com/mqrvxjh
(it allows down to 5V input, and is in a NICE looking aluminum enclosure!... but clearly more money
Dimming -vs- pot resistance value. This depends on the design of the regulator. Sometimes increasing the resistance of the CV pot causes the voltage to increase, sometimes it's the opposite... it depends on the regulator/converter you use. This has to be determined for each regulator design. You can set the pot to one output voltage, turn it OFF, and measure (and record) the pot resistance and Voltage. Then adjust it to a different voltage, turn it OFF, and measure its resistance again... that will show you if you need higher or lower resistance to lower the output Voltage (which will "dim" the LED).
The LED chips usually begin lighting at a little over 2v each, the 100W LED's usually have a 10x10 array of LED chips, so 20V might be a good minimum "dimmed" voltage to start with. Be SURE to set the Current Limit (CC) to a bit less than the maximum current rating for your LED (typ. 3A) before you connect the LED... use a car headlamp or similar for a test load. You can set the converter output Voltage without a load connected.
I hope to remake my instructional video in a couple days... I tried once, and it failed - when the LED lit, it caused the automatic iris on the video camera to close down... I'll have to protect the camera from the bright LED light.
18:24 .. Was that a bottle of HP sauce? Or am I going crazy?
Death ME TOO LOL
Death Because he said sauce not source.
Listen to what hes saying in the video
I literally died with laugher when I saw it
In his accent, "source" and "sauce" sound the same. He was making a joke.
Ur voice and the making of the content everything is so satisfying ❤
1:27 trippy compression artifacting on the heatsink
Hee, great video man. I have one question I could not find the answer to: 'what is the total weight of the product?' Keep up the good work
At least 2 kg from my calculations
Imagine this man with proper workshop full of modern CNC machines, lasers cutters, brake press, milling machines, welders.
Wish it was amazon links or any other website other then eBay so the links would still work
the only link that didnt work for me was the led, www.amazon.com/Chanzon-6000K-6500K-Intensity-Components-Lighting/dp/B01DBZHUXA/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=100w+led+cob&qid=1566364135&s=gateway&sr=8-4
perfect, just the thing I need for vampire slaying
He has great DYI vids . One thing I do miss about his vids is at the end when he used to say the typically English "Tarra" (Tara) . As a American Tarra always made me think > Yep typically English . :) Keep up the great DIY's !
Quick question. Why do you solder resistors to the potentiometers? What is their purpose?
+Hunter Coyhis Sets the minimum and maximum output voltage from the booster.
+Hunter Coyhis I was wondering that too.
+DIY Perks Awesome that makes a lot of sense now. thank you for the timely reply. I love your videos!
+Hunter Coyhis Cause pararerly connected two 10k potentiometers gives maximum final 5k resistance, it's too little. Simpliest electrical rules...
You can replace the blue one by constant resistor which will give you 30V on regulator output when potentiometer is fully "opened", just ask DIY Perks what value has his blue potentiometer set :)
+Spid88PL Thank you for this information! I am quite a novice to electronic systems (other than those little kits you can get to build a clock or other little trinkets that come with all the parts and instructions). I would have guessed that connecting 10K potentiometers in series would yield 20k resistance. Now, looking at the diagram in the video they are linked in parallel, not in series. Thanks again for clearing that up!
Fantastic. I'd love to build one of my own. Would it be possible to add acrylic sheets to the inside of the frame to make it waterproof? Or would that make the heat build up too much?
As it is a fantastic flashlight, but I'd not want to ruin it by taking it out on a rainy evening.
Not the kind of flashlight I'd have for daily use. But an excellent display of craftsmanship in lots areas. Job well done.
18:25 You can connect this to any sauce😂😂😂
If you and colin furze got together it should make for some good watching !
Especially if they made a butt baby
I like how you used the main heat sink for cooling the boosting circuit.
Hi, so i finally finished both your sunblaster and LED panel DIYs. I'm a professionnal cameraman and wanted to make my own lights (especially the sunblaster which seemed phenomenal). After having completed both projects and comparing them to a professional square foot light panel it seems that most of the energy is wasted in heat through both the power adapters and the lights themselves. Given the amount of time it takes to build either one, you'd be better off mowing lawns or working in a fast food and save the $600-$800 necessary to buy a cheap light panel. Professionnal use requires battery management and given the inefficiency of the lights themselves (absolutely nothing wrong with your DIYs), these can't be reliably used in a professional setting.
so no good for professional video ?? what a bummer!!!
+GroundUpProduct use better quality led's the efficiency of these cheap Chinese led's cant compare to the cree cxa or cxb series led's.
I have made a 5 led floodlight using cxa3070s and it is quiet efficient and also cooled with cpu coolers , and powered by some very efficient meanwell power supplies lpc60-1400 .
Google battlestar ganjatica its where i got the inspiration for my build i know the guy is using it as a grow light and not for professional lighting but these stoners are worried about efficiency and they have done the math
Buy more efficient, higher CRI LED's!
@MrJustsayinshit. Could you share how did you build it? what were costs? do you use lights in video work?
I could get my friend do electronics as im not good with those.
This DIY project was compared to a 1000W Halogen work-light though.
Then it is pretty efficient. Comparable light output and doesn't give off as much heat as a Halogen lamp even though it still needs cooling. With a sufficiently large heatsink you may skip the fan too. These LED modules are commonly used in street lights where they are always passively cooled.
who else saw the HP sauce
+Jinyu Dai he says "it can be powered by any source" and it sounds like sauce
I saw it .
funny. 😂
Yeah, I was wondering what that was about.
It is nowadays new kind of AD. It takes only a few frames but our subconscious memorizes it.
To be honest: I have no idea of electronics and I really do not intend to build such a thing. But also I totally enjoyed watching the video. Thanks for the entertainment ^^
"battery can be killed if shorted...", actually battery will catch on fire and violently explode with fiery mass flying everywhere if shorted.
So... can kill
He just simplified it to "killed"..
in other words: "Samsung Note 7"-ed
@@startrek0336 LoL you know what kind of phone terrorists like to carry around?
Damn im never going to do such thing or at least in the near future, but i watched the whole video from 0:00 to 21:42 its just so entertaining and made with so much love (no homo) that it makes me want that you make more videos! !
This is so very inspiring for me as I do not have an HMI plus generator to film outdoor night scenes. I am impressed!
Ohh and do you think a small stock intel or amd cooler could do the trick too ?
HIXMF Possibly, yes, but you'll probably have to run the fan quite fast so it might get a bit noisy.
thanks for the reply ! just what i thought ! Keep up the amazing work !
HIXMF Liquid cool it!
Considering a 100W LED is like a 100W CPU processor, a stock cooler can get quite loud. A big fan cooler can certainly help a lot.
***** the trick is that a led has a efficencie of about 95%. i dont know what a cpu has but i would estimate like 40%. so a 100w wont nearly get as hot as a 100w cpu.
"...or you can rock them back and forth to snap them off"
AAAHHHHHHH! It is certainly effective though.
i have seen many DIY this guy is unreal!! i extremely love ur content and explanation.
1:00 Tobey Maguire
I thought that too!
Exactly same..
pizza time
Theon Greyjoy, last surviving son of Balon Greyjoy, Lord of the Iron Islands or REEEKKKKK!!!!
?
kind of ;)
he's now giving tips... as it were hahaha
lol its his eyes that made me think the exact same thing. Hahaha
OMG Flight of the Navigator! I though I was the only one with good memories of this movie!
my first attempt making this a capacitor blew up in my face lol, anyone trying to do this be very careful of short circuits
"Exactly 30 volts!"
Meter shows 30.8 Volts...
Close enough lol!
IncapableLP as rule of thumb, any electronic thing can cope with 10% +-
2:45 *You monster*
*_You barbarian_*
Also, the pads on the back of these mosfets are grounded, so it shouldn't matter if they make contact with the heat sink. In fact, the heat sink should be hooked up to common ground.
Epic!
That's pretty sweet top notch design
Used these LED's as headlights on my car. Works great.
1000 Watts or 100 Watts ??? Major difference, dont you think? Nice build anyway
he means 1000w equivalent to a halogen light
Thanks fro your answer, should have though about it !
More like 30. Seen 100w lights with more than double the lumens
the black thingys are insulated bi polar transistors or voltage regulators not ic`s
Correct up until you say they aren't ICs...
I've wanted to build this for roughly two years, and received a CPU cooler for free roughly 8 months ago. Finally ordered the rest of the parts yesterday, can't wait to build it :)
where did you find the LED? it seems that the listing has ended...
I got mine on amazon - a company called Lohas carries them, in both warm and cool. I got a warm one, it looks great. just search "LOHAS 100w LED chip" on amazon, it should come right up. If you can't find anything else, let me know, i'll show you where to find it.
whats the battery life?
Please let us know what the battery life is with the 8000 mah battery.
Well he used a 4500mah battery and got 45mins, so an 8000mah battery would get you almost double that. Say, 80 minutes?
+Gus Wilkens This is not accurate. The battery he's using is about the equivalent of 2 18650 batteries. My light has 4 good 18650s and can barely last 20 mins. There's something fishy about his claim. Guys, don't use the battery he uses. That's just a bad choice.
+Nonnof Yobiznes taht's not true. He is using 8000mah (i'm not 100% sure ) 4cell wich is 14.4v discharged. if you use two 18650 you will get 2300mah and 7.4v or 4600mah 3.7v. thats not equvialent..
+Jirka Cvrcek Oh, OK. I didn't see last part of the vid. When I saw so many wrong things about it I stopped when he was making the framing already. I assumed he'd use the 3500mAh battery he put in the description. But let's see the numbers
If he's using the 4 cell battery, then it's about $70. For that money, you can get 14 good 25Rs (rated at 2500mAh) which equal to 35,000mAh. That's more than four times the amount of power for the money.
home-made midnight sunburner, now I have skin cancer, whah!
Except it doesn't emit any UV light, so... no.
+DIY Perks Hey man love this project my friends and I are going to build it for our drones, but I had a quick question regarding your links - You linked this product on eBay (ebay(dot)com/itm/371042744391?rmvSB=true), and I was a tad bit confused, is this the heatsink required, the fan, the lens, and the mount that you attach the LED to? Thanks mate, hope you see this so that I can get cracking :)
DIY Perks how much does this weight? Looking to put on a drone as well :)
Obviously to make an airborne Death Ray, no?
Squinkie just Squinkie I bought a brighter light at Lowe's for under 15 bucks 🤗
Flight of the Navigator! 👍 I saw that movie in the theater... Man, I am old 😂.
I wanted to see the flashlight in spotlight mode :(
Laser mode would be pretty wild.
why not make and sell these I'd give 200 for one
+leon Brierley You have Apple products, don't you?
no but the flashlight is worth that look up what a 8000 lumen to 10000 lumen flashlight is worth and this guy could make a killing not everyone is good with making things, and I like the designs as well.
+leon Brierley All "being good at making things" requires is following instructions and common sense. You're totally capable of making this.
+leon Brierley
£200 for this!! Are you serious?! Yeah, it's bright but the execution is crap!! It's ok as a prototype but no more!
+leon Brierley ill put a nice case and a logo on it and I sell it for you. Yeah, I'm the marketing man
I wish I could like this video more than once. Really love this tutorial.
what wattage does the 11K resistor need to be rated for? thanks!
+Exotic Toucan can i use 2 1/4 watt resistors?
cool, ty
+Exotic Toucan can i use 2 watt 11k resistors?
i dont understand the use of the 11k ohm resistance
@@ighishi, the original resistance of the potentiometer is 10k. He is replacing it with two 11k in parallel and two 10k potentiometers in parallel (not exactly, but the idea is this) and ends up with 5.5k of fixed resistance and 5k adjustable resistance on top of that.
0:46 wtf thought that was Michael Scofield lmao
DORC101 Nah man
I made one during my Masters degree that rivaled the heat flux from sun
Nice!
What up with the sauce bottle at 18:23?
Just like the subliminal movie cuts. ----> "Brought to you by.....HP sauce" Good catch
He pronounced source similarly to sauce this is why, it was humor.
Well caught JS. Certainly a cheeky bit
First rule about HP sauce club is...
tell everyone
where do you get all this aluminum? or more importantly where can I get all this aluminum?
Local hardware store....
Lewis Hart oh yeah
Haha excellent. Get a decent soldering iron with a smaller bit; a calibrated adjustable Weller if you can afford one! You will thank me for it later. And clean the bit with a wet sponge before use each time. If the bit becomes covered in oxidisation you can clean it with a file. When the bit wears down, replace it. Ensure all the joint (both parts) are sufficiently hot before soldering. You can do this by "tinning" the soldering bit in advance and then use the tin to heat the joint, it will help the solder flow and adhere, but do not overheat or it will burn off the pads. Also use pre-fluxed solder. I have ESA qualifications in Hand Solder btw. Enjoy ;-)
Subliminal HP Sauce bottle at 18:25 ????
sauce = source . English Accent .
+Mouhamed ZR3N What?
+Tony Foster Certain accents will have people pronouncing source as sauce. So it sounds like sauce but it's actually source.
+ToperMasterComedy What's anything got to do with my accent..... No - there is a photo of a HP SAUCE bottle at 18:25 in the video - pause the video at 18:25 and you will see!
Or you are trolling, or the joke is flying over your head. When he said source it sounded like sauce, that's why that image was there. It was a joke.
why i get so triggered by those "equivalent to incadescent" measurments lol just type exactly how many watts it uses... or make proper 1000w led array
Or, better yet, use lumens.
He said in more than one spot something about 100W this would be make sence since the factor for powerconsumption from LEDs and Lightbulbs for the same lightoutput is around 10.
@@technikchaot but its not 1000W LED.I clicked this video because I doubted that 1000W could be outputed from his puny 100W LED.
I too thought he was going to somehow use ten 100W LED's. The title is misleading because it doesn't say equivalent to incandescent.
@@ObjectsInMotion ehhh, it definitely does say "1000W equiv."
You set the battery voltage warning at 3V which is the limit per cell. However, the pack you used is three cells, so the warning level should be 9V, and the monitoring leads should be connected to the battery terminals.
u look like Spiderman
+Music Tests what r u talking a bout
+Tyler Limoges Defo *Peter Parker!*
tru
+jayc2469 The guys name is Tobey Maguire :D
+Tyler Limoges More like Theon Greyjoy
none of the links work
The video is 9 years old. What did you expect
I remember when they did, i wonder how many people (if any) made one of their own
wouldn’t you like to know furball
Awesome flight of the navigator reference
1000W ?? Where??? Led lamp 1000w, where site? foto LED? led driver?
1000w equivalent, led only 100w. www.amazon.com/Chanzon-6000K-6500K-Intensity-Components-Lighting/dp/B01DBZHUXA/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=100w+led+cob&qid=1566364135&s=gateway&sr=8-4
I have a big cuestión, can I use a 10k resistance electric instead of a 11k ? 'Cause I don't know if it works equal.
It does work equally fine. Because the actual outcome is determined by the potentiometers.
I liked the video & I plan to build something very similar. I've read several of the posts & though I agree with a few posts down about execution issues I don't wanna be rude. I have Mil-Spec solder training working for a defense contractor that builds military batteries & also many years of soldering experience from radio controlled hobbies. So the solder skills used here made me cringe but I also understand the spirit of the video from a regular DIYer. One thing I will criticize.... HEATSHRINK!. Insulate all those solder joints. I've got a pile of Kokam 4000 mAh Lipo cells & several spare computer CPU coolers. Time to get to building :)
how much heat does this output? Could you get by with a cheaper (or spare) CPU cooler like an Intel LGA1155 stock cooler?
The intel stock cooler will struggle to keep it cool without having the fan running at maximum (very loud). It's designed for 50-70w CPUs, this outputs closer to 100w of heat.
It's called a desoldering iron look into it...
I wanted to use standard tools so as to not put off potential builders who have less experience. That's literally the only reason why I bent off the mosfets etc rather than desoldering them - it's just plain easier and quicker.
+DIY Perks Good point but still for ones that are new to DIY should be shown how to do things right and with the right tools, the way you did it works but can be unsafe for some who are young! Good job tho an I like just about all your projects. keep up the good work :)
+fmslick Twisting off is dangerous but soldering with a gas iron is not???
+Voluntarist O.o where did you come up with gas from?
fmslick Mine operates on butane/propane.
the intro was awesome .. add some drama .. you are king bro
Lens - suxx. Need TIR optic or deep OP reflector
+easyelectronics Where can you get one of those for an led of this size?
justtesting555 may be automotive? LED Head light has some size.
justtesting555 You can try to calculate the geometry of their own (there is a special software for this) and printed on a 3D printer. Sand and cover by electrochemical galvanization. Chromium or aluminum, with subsequent polishing.
+easyelectronics reflectors do nothing to help these 180 degree emitters. the reflector is a plane behind the led and the collimator lens interfaces it well. because of the cool nature of the LEDs output heat stress on the lens (which happens to be glass) is obviated.
i did this with a uv light
CANCER FOR DAYS
Just make them watch 5 buzzfeed videos and there, you have cancer!
I have built one of these out of an ammo can and its bright but pales in comparison to my Imalent R60C and MS18. Still a fun project and it was the brightest light at the time i built it.
20 AA batteries in series and a cold day will avoid most those steps...
Global warming: am I a joke to you?
Hi. Peter Parker.
I thought the _exact_ same thing