It actually was a good idea to cut the road to flatten the grade a little. It was an even better idea to cut ditches on both sides of the road as well. Would have been even better to "crown" the road AND rent a small roller to compact the rock and "seal" the fines. The large rock doesn't work its' way to the top of the road, the smaller rock actually crushes and blows away or washes away as you drive on the road or when it rains. Every time you grade your road you should roll it with a roller 1 ton in size or larger. The geo-fab (that's what we call it in Oregon) was an excellent idea and I use it on all my projects. Nice vid. and nice road...😎
I agree with nearly all of this. But I don't think the smaller rock is just going away. Instead, I think it is more like cereal in a cereal box -- the broken bits and powder gets under the large pieces (with vibration) but the large pieces can't fall under the small bits or under the powder. So the smaller rock of the driveway can work under the larger stones (with vibration/slight movement of traffic).
This is great information. I just bought an undeveloped agricultural property in northeast Kentucky. I'd like to build the driveway right the first time.
This is exactly what I needed to know. I have a parking spot in front of the house that's just mud and grass and I needed to know how to do this properly. Thank you.🙂
I appreciate this video. Husband and myself have been going back and forth on which was the best route. We have a slope to battle on our driveway. #GoBBN
you were right to strip the sod and topsoil off before laying the geotextile (we call it road fabric around here) down. stripping it off, and laying down a gravel base (we call it bank run), then the road fabric, and then the layers of processed stone, creates the best road. for the top coat i use what we call 3/4 minus.....it's a processed crushed stone that includes everything 3/4 inch, and all the way down to stone dust; the stuff packs like concrete. only negative is that in the driest summer months it can get a bit dusty. and, yes you want the road higher than the surrounding grass, but after you strip it off, you build it back up with gravel first, vs. just laying the fiber on top of the grass and topsoil and going from there. we also have what is called hard pan around here. that can also be used, as it packs incredibly well. not sure what your geology is there when it comes to sub soils; i am up in new england, and we are on an ancient ocean floor that has been glaciated a few times, so there is great variation here.
GDay Paul, looking to do about 2km of farm road on our property in Sydney Australia. Good info, however you said put down rick first on the soil first before GeoFabric the rocks on top. I was thinking Geofabric on dirt the layers of rock on top like this gent has done. What’s your thoughts for doing you way. How thick is each layer also. Thanks in advance
That fabric will definitely go on top of my rock driveway to stop the weed growth this next time . At least this first batch will keep me from digging ruts in the ground , but the dang weeds already over took my pretty driveway I worked so hard at ! Thanks man !
Excellent tutorial on drive building. We have a long drive also, but at least 60-70 years old. House was built in 1830s. My greatest discovery was the land plane! Used the grader blade and box blade for 25 years. Every Spring I would have the ritual of pulling the gravel out of the grass on both sides of the drive! 👎 The land plane changed everything, smooth, neat, and easy to pull. I can't used a crown on my drive. I slope the entire drive to one side. Takes a little longer but gives me more time to sip a few adult beverages and enjoy the view. Thanks for the time and effort you take for the videos.
Road fabric should only be used in soil that cannot be permanently stabilized by compacting. The downside to fabric is the rock will never lock in place and the fabric will migrate to the surface over time, it also requires twice the rock coverage to allow for grading the road without catching the fabric..
Thanks for the info here but how do you know when the soil (sand actually) cannot be / will not be / could not be permanently stabilized ? When or what is it exactly to be "stabilized " ?
@@davidgonzales9591 Depends on where you're located because that will determine what's in the ground. For example, in my part of the state there is almost always clay just below the surface, which is a perfect candidate for direct application of rock.
Thank You I'm not gonna use it even if a lot of videos say that it's always a must. Lots of sand over here with sand under the sand but with lots of water and compacting, it came out super super hard. I just couldn't figure out why some were talking about compacting issues. I have tons of sand and it got hard on top. DONE !
Thank you sir I appreciate this video because in another couple of months I might be starting this journey too and everything that you touched on I pretty much figured that's what I had to do so again thank you very much for this video
Great explanation. I'm doing the same thing. Just put rock down and compacted it for a camper pad. I did not use fabric. Some of the rock just sunk into the mud (I spread the rock after a rain which may have been a mistake). Seems like fabric would have been a good idea. Wonder if I can put fabric over the existing thin base and put more rock over it? Thanks for the video!
That is an incredible collection gulley you've got there. I can't imagine how that won't destroy your driveway. You've got to ameliorate the water. Your fabric is to prevent water from pumping up from beneath. Have you thought about digging a dry storm sewer on one side of your driveway in the grassy field and crowning the gravel heavy in that area? I'm starting a 400' project in June on a field, my problem is just a couple of inches of depression but I'm catching my neighbor's runoff from a higher elevation so it's constantly coming at me. I plan on installing anywhere from 8" -16" of lift on a quarter of it which I'll probably divide up between base stone and asphalt millings.
Thanks for your information!! Just got some land in Winchester KY. Ours land is little bit more sloped, but I will be having the same amount to my house. Just trying to figure everything out now.
Wouldn't take much to use your box blade and scrape that #2s and whatnot from that section of parking area, lay down some roadbed cloth and spread it back over... then next time you add some fine material you put a topper on... Really helped ! Thank you for.this!
I have about 2000 feet of gravel and concrete driveways. I am in Alabama and my soil type is mud, clay and loam. I find that buying what is called ALDOT #24 (2 to 3 inch stones) as my first layer then what is called crusher run on top. The wife says I have a gravel fetish but you gotta have it or your vehicles will sink. I've had triaxles and concrete trucks drive on my gravel drives with no issues. I have about 800 of the 2000 feet of driveway concreted over my gravel base. A wheeled skid steer is great because it compacts everything nicely. I looked at the landscaping fabric but it was expensive like the gravel. In our area gravel is fairly inexpensive, I have about 1500 tons down and have spent about $17,000 for perspective. It's a lot of work to keep a gravel driveway, you better have a tractor or a skid steer. Concrete over the gravel after it is compacted if you can swing it.
@@mrpush2532 went and logged into my account, it's actually about $24,000 we live about 6 miles from the quarry, its about $200 more now for a triaxle (~27 tons). About $550 to $700 a load depending on what grade/size gravel. I can get crushed concrete for about $425 a triaxle now.
I did mine by Excavating 12 inches I put down rubber roofing brought in 6 inches of heavy Crush 3 inches of 21/8 and 3 in of crushed Limestone 20 years it's absolutely beautiful no weeds no dirt no nothing
I am doing a lot of research on how to build a driveway for my new septic business and this is the most informative video I have found. Thank you for your time on making it. One question I dont think you answered is how long has your drive way been in place and what is the max weight you put on it? I will be pulling a yanmar vio75 and smaller things.
I live in eastern Montana where we have a "gumbo-like" extra slippery mud when it rains. I was planning on the textile underneath gravel.. until my neighbor told me that the gravel has nothing to adhere to if there's no dirt and that your tires will spin? I have a slight hill about like yours but a bit longer.. perhaps the 3 layers of rock is the key? Great video 👍
yep, doing my research now for a stone driveway ... it seems the 3 layer method is the key cause it locks everything together ... also use angular type stone vs round river stone; angular will lock, round will be slippery.
Great video thanks. Main question is how you grade it if you don't have a tractor. We have just dropped loads of stone 3inch over 500m (1640ft) and a digger has gone over to level best as possible. I've rolled it which exposes high and low points so we fill in here and there but getting it perfect how do people do that?
I don't know. But I'd say this driveway is definitely above average and a fire department would have to aim for serving residents with below average driveways. And I don't know if his fire department even has 80,000 trucks. In short, I don't think this homeowner need worry about weight capacity, given all he's done.
best thing to do and yes it requires some work is.. dig out the width you want then dig deep enough for the width of a car tire... yes it will take a number of tires,, cut the sidewalls of the tires out. place the tires down and nail them together then fill them in with the gravel.. the tires will always hold the gravel in place forever, have the gravel above the tires by say 3 to 4 inches..
I'm getting ready to lay gravel in a small garden like they do in French gardens. Would I use the same size rock---#2, then #57 and then dense grade. Thank you.
Hello, my name is Phyllis, and I'm a first-timer owner of over 3 acres. Of course, I plan to build a home and rent out a couple of tiny homes. Question, first I also need to install a driveway. I measured the opening at 30 feet. Is that going to be wide enough for all the delivery trucks that will be coming through?
Can I put the textile down after I’ve already put down some wash gravel... because I had to put a road down to get some access for trucks... now I have to clean up a area (when it dries up) because I’m loosing gravel in That spot and I need to fix it... so my question is -when I grade everything back off can I start building my road on top of the textile off the pre existing gravel
Buikt an acces road for my dad property like that. Graded and leveled off the existing. And then used get textile and went with new gravel right over it. So far it has held up amazing. Been in almost 2 years now no issues. Hope this helps.
Before you lay the geotextile deal with any wet patches with stone filled trench to the side of the drive road. Otherwise the area will hold water under the road and sink.
@@johnclements6614 thanks for your feedback...I’ve have actually dealt with one wet(soft) spot already by digging it out and back filling it with red clay gravel...that one spot took two full loads😳😳😳 I have two more spots to deal with but they want be have to dug out so deep... they call the ground pumpkin when it does that...hope we can help everybody with these conversations
@@inspireguy8080 Clay is a good material to replace a soft material under the road or drive formation if you can not improve the material with drainage or other means. Here in the UK we call such a layer capping (could be clay or gravel if drains) and is rarely more than 2 foot deep under a highway. If you are diging deeper than that for a minor road or drive there is most likely a more economic solution. As well as geotexitles which are good at separation you can also use geogrids to spread the load over weak formation and subformation.
@@johnclements6614 wow thanks great information...I meant wet/soft spots in my other comments but I’m pretty sure you knew what I meant...I’m going to have vids to come so I can be an example for anybody who is experiencing these types of problems...thanks for your feedback!
No you don't have to, and in hindsight I wish I hadn't asked for the guy to do that to mine. You can lay your geotextile fabric over the grass, then cover with #2 crushed stone, then cover with #57s and so on and so forth like in the video.
Digging out the topsoil is extremely important. Topsoil doesn't pack. It should be replaced with a subgrade gravel that passes compaction tests and packed in with a roller.
Thank you! Building a house on my 11 acres this summer. Been looking for a good video on this. Any recommendations for best ways to remove snow in the winter?
You can plow the road, you just need to try and make sure you let the gravel freeze with water first. Also plows can have a rubber bottom side attachment. That helps prevent it from moving gravel. It just also means you will always have a bit of snow and ice on the gravel but thats just something to live with.
should bring in topsoil and fill that pond area in and make it completely level then set your gravel road.... never drive through a puddle again. Thats what Im getting ready to do as well as move a culvert so I can regain land space.
I’m hearing noises in your Audio, If you’re using your phone with an external mic, try turning off your cellular data. Because I’ve noticed my audio did the same thing. Till I discovered it only does it when the mic is close to my phone.
thx! that was really helpful! I also live in Kentucky and have a 350 foot driveway that needs work. Thinking about asphalt instead of gravel for less maintenance plus I have a pretty steep driveway.
Hello. I bought a place, what used to be a gravel driveway now 2-3 inches below the road. I was thinking of raising my driveway to be above the road so rain water will go into a ditch and under the driveway instead of through the driveway onto the yard. Should I widen the driveway to cover the entire length from end of pipe to the other end
Same question. I am also dealing with a road that drops off 3 feet or so onto my land. What needs to be done to create an entry that will be built up and slope down onto the land? Kane - did you start your entry?
Great video. Quick question, is the membrane that you lay porous or non porous. Here in the UK I'm struggling to decide what material to use to re-do our drive
many years ago there was slippery road .It was very difficult to drive when it was raining.I saw one person just kept pouring plain river sand.It became more difficult .but after one year the driveway had become perfect for all sesons.
Call your local hardware store and ask for price of geotextiles. Check costs for a truckload of aggregate or if it comes by volume, m3 or ft3. Calculate how much aggs you need by multiplying your area by the height you're wanting = volume. Then that's the material cost. He did say he had a digger to cut an 8" drain along the edge and had trimmed the hump, also rolling which you can do with your own vehicle but add weights and drive up and down a whole day lol
How much did it cost you to do this? We need to put one in about the same size and getting a ballpark idea would be very helpful. We will live in southern Indiana. Thanks
I have a wooded property in very sandy central Florida. I'd like to partially clear it, compact it and drop in a bunch of #57 in the form of a driveway to a clearing patch in the middle. But not just compact enough to drive over, but also a base for an eventual foundation for small/lightweight metal frame single story offgrid house. Is this possible and are their specific requirements I need to meet in Florida?
Hello. Great video. I am living in Georgia so I have to find the names of the 3 different sizes of gravel for the layers. My question is: Do I need to use any kind of landscape edging? Thanks for your help .
I didn't use any edging and you can probably see in the video that there is some grass and weeds growing up on the edges of my gravel road now. If you are willing to keep the edge mowed or trimmed it's not a big deal, but if you want to keep a sharp cutoff to the vegetation you could use some kind of edging I suppose. Thanks.
Fantastic vid.. Totally have to.do the same thing on my road.. Im curious if you considered building up the road down in the bowl.. And did you lay heavier rock on top of the fabric first and then a smaller rock on top of that?
In north Idaho is called road fabric and rolls 12’ wide by around 330’ are available at building supply places. Last roll I bought a year or so ago was around $350
So if you're still getting notifications on this three years later haha, obviously yall get snow, but i don't know how much. My question is how does it hold up, if at all to a snow plow?
Don't need to, and better not to so your roads is much higher than grade. He said he trimmed the hump before laying it but weird how he then said he shouldnt have cut the tops off
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NBw1jF342vw/mqdefault.jpg)
It actually was a good idea to cut the road to flatten the grade a little. It was an even better idea to cut ditches on both sides of the road as well. Would have been even better to "crown" the road AND rent a small roller to compact the rock and "seal" the fines. The large rock doesn't work its' way to the top of the road, the smaller rock actually crushes and blows away or washes away as you drive on the road or when it rains. Every time you grade your road you should roll it with a roller 1 ton in size or larger. The geo-fab (that's what we call it in Oregon) was an excellent idea and I use it on all my projects. Nice vid. and nice road...😎
I would put a culvert under that dip and you can run a sump pump out of it too if you want near zero water there.
I agree with nearly all of this. But I don't think the smaller rock is just going away. Instead, I think it is more like cereal in a cereal box -- the broken bits and powder gets under the large pieces (with vibration) but the large pieces can't fall under the small bits or under the powder. So the smaller rock of the driveway can work under the larger stones (with vibration/slight movement of traffic).
This is great information. I just bought an undeveloped agricultural property in northeast Kentucky. I'd like to build the driveway right the first time.
This is exactly what I needed to know. I have a parking spot in front of the house that's just mud and grass and I needed to know how to do this properly.
Thank you.🙂
I appreciate this video. Husband and myself have been going back and forth on which was the best route. We have a slope to battle on our driveway. #GoBBN
Great help. I am making first first gravel driveway and you gave me what I was looking for. Thanks.
You mean like How to do it wrong ?
@@serenityplantation7638what's wrong with it?
Hey.
Thank you for your information.You have really given me a lot better information than anybody has ever Thank you
you were right to strip the sod and topsoil off before laying the geotextile (we call it road fabric around here) down. stripping it off, and laying down a gravel base (we call it bank run), then the road fabric, and then the layers of processed stone, creates the best road. for the top coat i use what we call 3/4 minus.....it's a processed crushed stone that includes everything 3/4 inch, and all the way down to stone dust; the stuff packs like concrete. only negative is that in the driest summer months it can get a bit dusty. and, yes you want the road higher than the surrounding grass, but after you strip it off, you build it back up with gravel first, vs. just laying the fiber on top of the grass and topsoil and going from there. we also have what is called hard pan around here. that can also be used, as it packs incredibly well. not sure what your geology is there when it comes to sub soils; i am up in new england, and we are on an ancient ocean floor that has been glaciated a few times, so there is great variation here.
Thanks it is a great information . Trying to do the same in Georgia .
GDay Paul, looking to do about 2km of farm road on our property in Sydney Australia. Good info, however you said put down rick first on the soil first before GeoFabric the rocks on top. I was thinking Geofabric on dirt the layers of rock on top like this gent has done. What’s your thoughts for doing you way. How thick is each layer also. Thanks in advance
Can you use a tractor to cut the top soil off?
Sounds like a perfect spot for a rain garden.
That fabric will definitely go on top of my rock driveway to stop the weed growth this next time . At least this first batch will keep me from digging ruts in the ground , but the dang weeds already over took my pretty driveway I worked so hard at ! Thanks man !
God bless you sir. Thank you from Tallahassee
you are 100% correct about being above the grade, even if its only 4" it will make a world of difference
Excellent tutorial on drive building. We have a long drive also, but at least 60-70 years old. House was built in 1830s. My greatest discovery was the land plane! Used the grader blade and box blade for 25 years. Every Spring I would have the ritual of pulling the gravel out of the grass on both sides of the drive! 👎
The land plane changed everything, smooth, neat, and easy to pull. I can't used a crown on my drive. I slope the entire drive to one side. Takes a little longer but gives me more time to sip a few adult beverages and enjoy the view. Thanks for the time and effort you take for the videos.
Sounds awesome!
Road fabric should only be used in soil that cannot be permanently stabilized by compacting. The downside to fabric is the rock will never lock in place and the fabric will migrate to the surface over time, it also requires twice the rock coverage to allow for grading the road without catching the fabric..
Thanks for the info here but how do you know when the soil (sand actually) cannot be / will not be / could not be permanently stabilized ?
When or what is it exactly to be "stabilized " ?
@@davidgonzales9591 Depends on where you're located because that will determine what's in the ground. For example, in my part of the state there is almost always clay just below the surface, which is a perfect candidate for direct application of rock.
Thank You I'm not gonna use it even if a lot of videos say that it's always a must. Lots of sand over here with sand under the sand but with lots of water and compacting, it came out super super hard. I just couldn't figure out why some were talking about compacting issues. I have tons of sand and it got hard on top. DONE !
Thank you for the video and the helpful comments in this section. It is a daunting task and I appreciate everyone's input :)
I used milled asphalt, cheap and it works great
Thank you sir I appreciate this video because in another couple of months I might be starting this journey too and everything that you touched on I pretty much figured that's what I had to do so again thank you very much for this video
Great explanation. I'm doing the same thing. Just put rock down and compacted it for a camper pad. I did not use fabric. Some of the rock just sunk into the mud (I spread the rock after a rain which may have been a mistake). Seems like fabric would have been a good idea. Wonder if I can put fabric over the existing thin base and put more rock over it? Thanks for the video!
That is an incredible collection gulley you've got there. I can't imagine how that won't destroy your driveway. You've got to ameliorate the water. Your fabric is to prevent water from pumping up from beneath. Have you thought about digging a dry storm sewer on one side of your driveway in the grassy field and crowning the gravel heavy in that area? I'm starting a 400' project in June on a field, my problem is just a couple of inches of depression but I'm catching my neighbor's runoff from a higher elevation so it's constantly coming at me. I plan on installing anywhere from 8" -16" of lift on a quarter of it which I'll probably divide up between base stone and asphalt millings.
Thank you for an excellent video!
Thanks for your information!! Just got some land in Winchester KY. Ours land is little bit more sloped, but I will be having the same amount to my house. Just trying to figure everything out now.
Wouldn't take much to use your box blade and scrape that #2s and whatnot from that section of parking area, lay down some roadbed cloth and spread it back over... then next time you add some fine material you put a topper on...
Really helped ! Thank you for.this!
I have about 2000 feet of gravel and concrete driveways. I am in Alabama and my soil type is mud, clay and loam. I find that buying what is called ALDOT #24 (2 to 3 inch stones) as my first layer then what is called crusher run on top. The wife says I have a gravel fetish but you gotta have it or your vehicles will sink. I've had triaxles and concrete trucks drive on my gravel drives with no issues. I have about 800 of the 2000 feet of driveway concreted over my gravel base. A wheeled skid steer is great because it compacts everything nicely. I looked at the landscaping fabric but it was expensive like the gravel. In our area gravel is fairly inexpensive, I have about 1500 tons down and have spent about $17,000 for perspective. It's a lot of work to keep a gravel driveway, you better have a tractor or a skid steer. Concrete over the gravel after it is compacted if you can swing it.
You only paid $11.xx per ton of gravel????
@@mrpush2532 went and logged into my account, it's actually about $24,000 we live about 6 miles from the quarry, its about $200 more now for a triaxle (~27 tons). About $550 to $700 a load depending on what grade/size gravel. I can get crushed concrete for about $425 a triaxle now.
Good ole fellow KY boy. Looks good. You should see my poorly installed drives. I am going to work it up later, when able to.
I did mine by Excavating 12 inches I put down rubber roofing brought in 6 inches of heavy Crush 3 inches of 21/8 and 3 in of crushed Limestone 20 years it's absolutely beautiful no weeds no dirt no nothing
I am doing a lot of research on how to build a driveway for my new septic business and this is the most informative video I have found. Thank you for your time on making it. One question I dont think you answered is how long has your drive way been in place and what is the max weight you put on it? I will be pulling a yanmar vio75 and smaller things.
It's been as you see it here for 4 years now. Max weight on it has been around 78,000 lbs. from loaded triple-axle dump trucks. Thanks!
@@4-LOW 4 years is great
Would you recommend removing the top layer off before putting the fabric in?
Nice piece of property
Thanks for the valuable insights!
Really good video, nothing wrong with the camera footage either, except Bigfoot peeking out from the trees in the back woods beside your house
I live in eastern Montana where we have a "gumbo-like" extra slippery mud when it rains. I was planning on the textile underneath gravel.. until my neighbor told me that the gravel has nothing to adhere to if there's no dirt and that your tires will spin? I have a slight hill about like yours but a bit longer.. perhaps the 3 layers of rock is the key?
Great video 👍
yep, doing my research now for a stone driveway ... it seems the 3 layer method is the key cause it locks everything together ... also use angular type stone vs round river stone; angular will lock, round will be slippery.
Great video! Can you give an idea of the cost based on a certain size?
Right now its running about 16 a ton for sandstone and 32 for limestone
Great video thanks. Main question is how you grade it if you don't have a tractor. We have just dropped loads of stone 3inch over 500m (1640ft) and a digger has gone over to level best as possible. I've rolled it which exposes high and low points so we fill in here and there but getting it perfect how do people do that?
I like you didn't have to dig out the driveway!
Thanks for the video! Any idea on weight capacity? Will it support a 80,000 fire truck.
I don't know. But I'd say this driveway is definitely above average and a fire department would have to aim for serving residents with below average driveways. And I don't know if his fire department even has 80,000 trucks.
In short, I don't think this homeowner need worry about weight capacity, given all he's done.
good information....in the process of building myself....
off subject question.
your black fence. wood? PVC ? if wood is it painted. what type of paint, prep?
thank you.
I live in Kentucky aswell, we just got a small parking patch next to the house today and hopefully works out
Good information, thanks.👍
Thank you! Perfect!
Gravels are best for "hear them coming"
best thing to do and yes it requires some work is.. dig out the width you want then dig deep enough for the width of a car tire... yes it will take a number of tires,, cut the sidewalls of the tires out. place the tires down and nail them together then fill them in with the gravel.. the tires will always hold the gravel in place forever, have the gravel above the tires by say 3 to 4 inches..
Question? How many truck loads would you say you’ve done so far and how many did you put down initially of each rock?
Shoulda done a double 2 inch layer of blacktop! After construction of course.
Nice the mailman comes to the house.
I'm getting ready to lay gravel in a small garden like they do in French gardens. Would I use the same size rock---#2, then #57 and then dense grade. Thank you.
no just use 57 since it wont have cars driving on it
Great video and advice! I’m having to put on 500 yards of new rd 😳 I have sand/clay.
500 yards that’s a million pounds…. My driveway was 20 yards and it’s 70 feet long
Hello, my name is Phyllis, and I'm a first-timer owner of over 3 acres. Of course, I plan to build a home and rent out a couple of tiny homes. Question, first I also need to install a driveway. I measured the opening at 30 feet. Is that going to be wide enough for all the delivery trucks that will be coming through?
30 feet wide at the entrance? That should be fine for almost all delivery trucks.
Can I put the textile down after I’ve already put down some wash gravel... because I had to put a road down to get some access for trucks... now I have to clean up a area (when it dries up) because I’m loosing gravel in That spot and I need to fix it... so my question is -when I grade everything back off can I start building my road on top of the textile off the pre existing gravel
Buikt an acces road for my dad property like that. Graded and leveled off the existing. And then used get textile and went with new gravel right over it. So far it has held up amazing. Been in almost 2 years now no issues. Hope this helps.
Before you lay the geotextile deal with any wet patches with stone filled trench to the side of the drive road. Otherwise the area will hold water under the road and sink.
@@johnclements6614 thanks for your feedback...I’ve have actually dealt with one wet(soft) spot already by digging it out and back filling it with red clay gravel...that one spot took two full loads😳😳😳 I have two more spots to deal with but they want be have to dug out so deep... they call the ground pumpkin when it does that...hope we can help everybody with these conversations
@@inspireguy8080 Clay is a good material to replace a soft material under the road or drive formation if you can not improve the material with drainage or other means. Here in the UK we call such a layer capping (could be clay or gravel if drains) and is rarely more than 2 foot deep under a highway. If you are diging deeper than that for a minor road or drive there is most likely a more economic solution. As well as geotexitles which are good at separation you can also use geogrids to spread the load over weak formation and subformation.
@@johnclements6614 wow thanks great information...I meant wet/soft spots in my other comments but I’m pretty sure you knew what I meant...I’m going to have vids to come so I can be an example for anybody who is experiencing these types of problems...thanks for your feedback!
I have a problem with it washing out. A drive from 1970 and I think this may help me tu
My question is do you have to take the top layer of grass and top soil off before laying down gravel
No you don't have to, and in hindsight I wish I hadn't asked for the guy to do that to mine. You can lay your geotextile fabric over the grass, then cover with #2 crushed stone, then cover with #57s and so on and so forth like in the video.
Thank you sir for the info!
If you get 15 inches of water you should have built it up 2' with railroad type rock, than cover over. You need a rock that water will flow thru.
I suppose he could put a culvert in there I would think.
Digging out the topsoil is extremely important. Topsoil doesn't pack. It should be replaced with a subgrade gravel that passes compaction tests and packed in with a roller.
Thank you! Building a house on my 11 acres this summer. Been looking for a good video on this. Any recommendations for best ways to remove snow in the winter?
Underfloor heating
You can plow the road, you just need to try and make sure you let the gravel freeze with water first.
Also plows can have a rubber bottom side attachment. That helps prevent it from moving gravel. It just also means you will always have a bit of snow and ice on the gravel but thats just something to live with.
Move to Florida
I knew you were from KY, before you said it…. Sound just like me 😂
Thanks😊 the mailman?
I have no knowledge at all, but would wonder about building up that part of the road somehow.
should bring in topsoil and fill that pond area in and make it completely level then set your gravel road.... never drive through a puddle again. Thats what Im getting ready to do as well as move a culvert so I can regain land space.
I’m hearing noises in your Audio, If you’re using your phone with an external mic, try turning off your cellular data. Because I’ve noticed my audio did the same thing. Till I discovered it only does it when the mic is close to my phone.
thx! that was really helpful! I also live in Kentucky and have a 350 foot driveway that needs work. Thinking about asphalt instead of gravel for less maintenance plus I have a pretty steep driveway.
i live in oklahoma. and the issue is surface rock . my plan is to use the rocks to my advantage
Great info
Hello. I bought a place, what used to be a gravel driveway now 2-3 inches below the road. I was thinking of raising my driveway to be above the road so rain water will go into a ditch and under the driveway instead of through the driveway onto the yard. Should I widen the driveway to cover the entire length from end of pipe to the other end
Intead of excavating the grade should of added. Road up above with a culvert running through
Thanks! This was helpful.
Do you have any insights on Alabama Path - Red Rock? I want a red color drive way and parking for my property in Alabama.
This is confirmed skibidi rizz Blud 👏✨
how many inches of #2 and #57 did you use? How many inches of the more fine rock?
Layers makes a lot of sense
The point where my road and land meet are not level, the road sits higher than the land. How should I go about leveling that without concrete?
Same question. I am also dealing with a road that drops off 3 feet or so onto my land. What needs to be done to create an entry that will be built up and slope down onto the land? Kane - did you start your entry?
Those sunglasses are killer my man. What are they called?
Great video. Quick question, is the membrane that you lay porous or non porous. Here in the UK I'm struggling to decide what material to use to re-do our drive
It is porous. The material is really hard to explain. It's just a thick rugged but soft fabric.
Hi Mike did u manage to get your driveway done?
Do you have any suggestions or changes to this idea for a completely flat gravel driveway that has huge 10x20 holes?
many years ago there was slippery road .It was very difficult to drive when it was raining.I saw one person just kept pouring plain river sand.It became more difficult .but after one year the driveway had become perfect for all sesons.
Curious why you didn't put in a culvert in that gully and build up over it.
That sinkhole is not good... Not sure but a washout is not a bad idea. Also how do you keep the gravel out of the driveway concrete?
Great vid. Thank you.
If I pour gravel down as a base! let to set. Then asphalt over it, later, would that work well.
Geotextile! good deal.
OFFRD..What would you say your total cost to construct the driveway?
Ballpark. Thank you.
Call your local hardware store and ask for price of geotextiles. Check costs for a truckload of aggregate or if it comes by volume, m3 or ft3. Calculate how much aggs you need by multiplying your area by the height you're wanting = volume. Then that's the material cost. He did say he had a digger to cut an 8" drain along the edge and had trimmed the hump, also rolling which you can do with your own vehicle but add weights and drive up and down a whole day lol
@@lifeisgood9474 Good deal. Thank you.
Did grass grow up through it?
What’s the total cost for the poured gravel
I wish Dale was my mailman
How much did it cost you to do this? We need to put one in about the same size and getting a ballpark idea would be very helpful. We will live in southern Indiana. Thanks
Do you have a link for the fabric?
Thanks
Is this less expensive than paving?
What thype of geotextil should i use?
I have a wooded property in very sandy central Florida. I'd like to partially clear it, compact it and drop in a bunch of #57 in the form of a driveway to a clearing patch in the middle. But not just compact enough to drive over, but also a base for an eventual foundation for small/lightweight metal frame single story offgrid house. Is this possible and are their specific requirements I need to meet in Florida?
How do you keep the green space so neat from wild grass? Weeds
Hello. Great video. I am living in Georgia so I have to find the names of the 3 different sizes of gravel for the layers. My question is: Do I need to use any kind of landscape edging?
Thanks for your help .
I didn't use any edging and you can probably see in the video that there is some grass and weeds growing up on the edges of my gravel road now. If you are willing to keep the edge mowed or trimmed it's not a big deal, but if you want to keep a sharp cutoff to the vegetation you could use some kind of edging I suppose. Thanks.
That geologic feature is a swale, FYI
Fantastic vid.. Totally have to.do the same thing on my road.. Im curious if you considered building up the road down in the bowl..
And did you lay heavier rock on top of the fabric first and then a smaller rock on top of that?
I can't find good amount of the fabric....any large wide rolls??
In north Idaho is called road fabric and rolls 12’ wide by around 330’ are available at building supply places. Last roll I bought a year or so ago was around $350
On my road i used the weed eater, so during the winter I would not have weed problem
What was the cost. And how long was the driveway?
So if you're still getting notifications on this three years later haha, obviously yall get snow, but i don't know how much. My question is how does it hold up, if at all to a snow plow?
No crushed concrete?
Would this type road build work in sandy soil?
How thick of #2 you put at first on the geotextile
How much did it cost
Did you remove the grass and soil before laying down the fabric?
Don't need to, and better not to so your roads is much higher than grade. He said he trimmed the hump before laying it but weird how he then said he shouldnt have cut the tops off