Thanks again for the awesome work you did on my van! If anyone is looking to get your door check repaired & you are in the Seattle of surrounding area, contact this guy! Very affordable & professional!
Want to thank the original poster of this video. I have a 2005 Sienna that began the driver side door pop around 160,000 miles. I think it started with only on spot weld broke, but I procrastinated and by the time I got around to working on it, three spot welds had failed and he cup was torn,. The good news is, that it was actually pretty easy to fix if you follow this video. I am only moderately handy with tools, certainly no mechanic. A couple notes for others who want to try this. There is a youtube video which details how to remove the door panel. Very helpful. I found it more difficult to pop the panel out of place than the video showed. I found that I did not need to drill out the two spot welds that hold the window rail. I used some extruded cage nuts that another poster found at O'Reilly's Auto parts. I was able to easily get the cage nut into place with my fingers and bolted on. Works great. I had the tear welded by my neighbor. If you don't know anyone with a welder, take the door to a body shop, they should be able to do it $50. Takes about 15 min.
Thank you so much. I performed this repair on my vehicle following your instructions and worked like a charm. Door now opens a closes like new and your solution here seems very strong and permanent. A local welder repaired the crack in my door check support for $35 (since I have no welding experience or equipment). As far as where to find these exact cage nuts and bolts - I found the body bolts at Lowes and the cage nuts (aka extruded speed nuts or u-nuts) at O'reilly Auto Parts. Instead of spray paint, I used small colored labels to mark the wiring locations which worked fine.
This a great video that shows how to repair this design defect, thanks!! Drilling out the welds is spot on!I had the same problem on my 2004 and first looked to see if Toyota would fix it (they wouldn't). Then I found a door (same color) at a local salvage yard for $400 but felt that the problem would just return.So, I did this repair by drilling out the welds/bolting them and it worked fine for a year. Then, the popping came back but this time, the whole cup broke out around the door check strap! Since the welds were strong, the cup was the next weakest spot in the poor design. Now the only way to fix it was to buy a new door or to weld it somehow.My Dad is an electrician, mechanic, welder, etc. so we took the door off and he brazed the broken piece in place at first. The metal is too thin to weld and would burn through the metal which is why brazing is a better fix for this. Then he built up the broken area with more braze and brazed a bolt across the broken area for added strength. We drilled sheet metal screws around some of the bolts for added support.So far, it works as if it came out of the factory.
Excellent video! I followed it the way he laid it out and it worked great - done in approx 2 hour.. The body shop wanted $2000 to fix it (no more free repair from Toyota). . Thank you!
The only tools I used were a drill, pop rivet gun, phillips screw drive, straight screw driver, electrical tape, 10mm & 12mm sockets and boxend wrenches. The metal was cracked, but I put enough rivets and screws all the way around the plate that there is no way for it to move at all. I am convinced it is now stronger than when it left the factory.
I tried it today and it took about 3 hours. I spent about $4 to fix it. It is kind of intimidating but I managed to do the whole job with no help, so it isn''t too tough. I used steel pop rivets and sheet metal screws. I drilled thirteen holes and used 6 3/16"x1/4" rivets and 7 1/2" x #12 screws.
The reason for using the 6 x 1 mm bolts with pre- installed washers and the 6 x 1 mm cage nuts is because of the surface area they provide over the spot welds or rivets. The rivets stress the metal. The cage nuts provide superior backing surface for repeated use.
I'm planning doing this repair myself, if I can't find the right cage nut I'm planning using a lock washer and a lock nut...will this do the job too, or is a cage nut the only solution? can't find a reason why a lock nut will fail.
I just used the buffer to remove the paint for the mig welder ground connection. If you have to weld, you can just scrape or sand to bare metal for a ground connection. But you should only have to do this if the check pocket is fractured.
Thanks for the video. Looks like I'll be attempting this. Didn't see anything that I can't do, but I could use a little more detail on actually removing the door. Did you have to unclip all the wires and feed them back through the door opening?
I am in Seattle also. What's the best way to contact you? My 05 have this issue along with the "crack" on top on the failing point. I guess the last owner had the problem and the door probably opened too wide and cracked the sheet metal. It was welded once and the spot now failed again. Not sure if it can be rewelded to the same spot?
Once you get the door panel off, it is obvious what to do with the wiring. If possible have someone help you when you remove the door and when you remount it.
bodyshop is charging me 2K to fix this! Is that normal????? They told me that they have to replace the WHOLE DOOR! Your video is great for those that know how to do this. Me... not so much :(
There is a video tutorial of a fix using a stainless steel rivet. Done in less than 10 minutes. Just did it on my 2004 today. 3/16" #64 Large Flange stainless steel rivet grip range of 3/16"-1/4".
The repair on the video is to the original door. If you live in the greater Seattle area, I would be happy to repair it for you for $400. If not, take this video to an autobody shop and see if they feel confident to repair as shown in the video.
+packyeow I tried looking on the Toyota website, tried putting in my VIN #, tried even just Googling, and I can't find any "official" news that this is true. Can you provide a link or reference? I have a 2005 Sienna.
It is only free if it is within 5 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first. Since the last model year was 2007, the warranty expired in 2012. I had the repair priced in 2014 and was told that it would cost $262 and that the warranty was gone.
Far too much work for an old Sienna. Drill and rivet where the spot welds are broken is MUCH easier. Metal filler is a very good substitute for a crack in the pocket. This is how I repaired mine without removal. If it had 30,000 miles on it, then I would do it this way. Mine has 150k. Both my auto rear door cables are broken too. I just removed the cables for manual operation. Horrible design just like this. The longer I own this, the more disappointed I become.
Thanks again for the awesome work you did on my van! If anyone is looking to get your door check repaired & you are in the Seattle of surrounding area, contact this guy! Very affordable & professional!
Want to thank the original poster of this video. I have a 2005 Sienna that began the driver side door pop around 160,000 miles. I think it started with only on spot weld broke, but I procrastinated and by the time I got around to working on it, three spot welds had failed and he cup was torn,. The good news is, that it was actually pretty easy to fix if you follow this video. I am only moderately handy with tools, certainly no mechanic. A couple notes for others who want to try this.
There is a youtube video which details how to remove the door panel. Very helpful. I found it more difficult to pop the panel out of place than the video showed.
I found that I did not need to drill out the two spot welds that hold the window rail. I used some extruded cage nuts that another poster found at O'Reilly's Auto parts. I was able to easily get the cage nut into place with my fingers and bolted on.
Works great. I had the tear welded by my neighbor. If you don't know anyone with a welder, take the door to a body shop, they should be able to do it $50. Takes about 15 min.
Thank you so much. I performed this repair on my vehicle following your instructions and worked like a charm. Door now opens a closes like new and your solution here seems very strong and permanent. A local welder repaired the crack in my door check support for $35 (since I have no welding experience or equipment). As far as where to find these exact cage nuts and bolts - I found the body bolts at Lowes and the cage nuts (aka extruded speed nuts or u-nuts) at O'reilly Auto Parts. Instead of spray paint, I used small colored labels to mark the wiring locations which worked fine.
Thanks for posting. Have this exact problem on my 2005 Sienna with 190k miles. Looks like way too much work and will just live with the noise.
This a great video that shows how to repair this design defect, thanks!! Drilling out the welds is spot on!I had the same problem on my 2004 and first looked to see if Toyota would fix it (they wouldn't). Then I found a door (same color) at a local salvage yard for $400 but felt that the problem would just return.So, I did this repair by drilling out the welds/bolting them and it worked fine for a year. Then, the popping came back but this time, the whole cup broke out around the door check strap! Since the welds were strong, the cup was the next weakest spot in the poor design. Now the only way to fix it was to buy a new door or to weld it somehow.My Dad is an electrician, mechanic, welder, etc. so we took the door off and he brazed the broken piece in place at first. The metal is too thin to weld and would burn through the metal which is why brazing is a better fix for this. Then he built up the broken area with more braze and brazed a bolt across the broken area for added strength. We drilled sheet metal screws around some of the bolts for added support.So far, it works as if it came out of the factory.
Mike L but this is how was came out of the factory... destined to fail lol
Just fixed the driver's door on 2 2004 Siennas. Repair worked perfectly. Thank you for the inspiration.
Excellent video! I followed it the way he laid it out and it worked great - done in approx 2 hour.. The body shop wanted $2000 to fix it (no more free repair from Toyota). . Thank you!
Thanks guys saved me $2000 the only thing extra I had to do is weld a bit other wise it went great, thanks again.
The only tools I used were a drill, pop rivet gun, phillips screw drive, straight screw driver, electrical tape, 10mm & 12mm sockets and boxend wrenches. The metal was cracked, but I put enough rivets and screws all the way around the plate that there is no way for it to move at all. I am convinced it is now stronger than when it left the factory.
I tried it today and it took about 3 hours. I spent about $4 to fix it. It is kind of intimidating but I managed to do the whole job with no help, so it isn''t too tough. I used steel pop rivets and sheet metal screws. I drilled thirteen holes and used 6 3/16"x1/4" rivets and 7 1/2" x #12 screws.
The reason for using the 6 x 1 mm bolts with pre- installed washers and the 6 x 1 mm cage nuts is because of the surface area they provide over the spot welds or rivets. The rivets stress the metal. The cage nuts provide superior backing surface for repeated use.
I'm planning doing this repair myself, if I can't find the right cage nut I'm planning using a lock washer and a lock nut...will this do the job too, or is a cage nut the only solution? can't find a reason why a lock nut will fail.
My dealer repaired it free! Just say it's part of the TSB Toyota service bulletin, their way of saying it's not a recall but.....
what dealer? we've been to three and not happening.
My 2004 door thingie just broke and i noticed it doesnt have the 2 hole area to put new hinge on . Anyone know what to do ?
I just used the buffer to remove the paint for the mig welder ground connection. If you have to weld, you can just scrape or sand to bare metal for a ground connection. But you should only have to do this if the check pocket is fractured.
Anyone else closed their eyes and pictured it was Brad Pitt fixing his Sienna? Lol sounds just like him! 😂
I have the same issue, I need to fix it, that's lot of tools, I have all of these except that thing "buffer tool" what is that???
Thanks for the video. Looks like I'll be attempting this. Didn't see anything that I can't do, but I could use a little more detail on actually removing the door. Did you have to unclip all the wires and feed them back through the door opening?
I am in Seattle also. What's the best way to contact you?
My 05 have this issue along with the "crack" on top on the failing point. I guess the last owner had the problem and the door probably opened too wide and cracked the sheet metal. It was welded once and the spot now failed again. Not sure if it can be rewelded to the same spot?
What is the size (diameter) bolts?
does any one know how to change front-lower door hinge on a 2004 sienna?
This happened to me two years ago with mileage of 150,000. Toyota replaced my door free of charge as part of a TSB campaign.
What is that nut call?
Hi how can get addss,?
I can send a pic but it will not let me share here
Once you get the door panel off, it is obvious what to do with the wiring. If possible have someone help you when you remove the door and when you remount it.
🙏👌🙌🤝👍Thank you for sharing your great knowledge .🍀🌾✟✟✟
Mine is doing the same thing right now! Too bad I don't have the skills or the tools to fix something like this.
tools are cheap. learning to use them can be expensive.
bodyshop is charging me 2K to fix this! Is that normal????? They told me that they have to replace the WHOLE DOOR! Your video is great for those that know how to do this. Me... not so much :(
has anyone found an easier repair that worked for a year or so?
There is a video tutorial of a fix using a stainless steel rivet. Done in less than 10 minutes. Just did it on my 2004 today. 3/16" #64 Large Flange stainless steel rivet grip range of 3/16"-1/4".
I have the same issue with my 05 Sienna
Hello, I sent you an email regarding the repair in the Seattle area. Thank you.
The repair on the video is to the original door. If you live in the greater Seattle area, I would be happy to repair it for you for $400. If not, take this video to an autobody shop and see if they feel confident to repair as shown in the video.
aenglish208, I'm in the Seattle area (Kitsap County), any chance you you are still doing these repairs?
@@jamesmartin548 Hi James Martin, Yes we still do. You can contact me at my e mail address, Panel pros@gmail.com Thanks Pat
Just go to your Toyota dealer and ask for a replacement free of charge as part of the Technical service bulletin.
+packyeow I tried looking on the Toyota website, tried putting in my VIN #, tried even just Googling, and I can't find any "official" news that this is true. Can you provide a link or reference? I have a 2005 Sienna.
+threehappypenguins www.autoblog.com/2007/10/24/toyota-fixing-600-000-sienna-doors-but-its-not-a-recall-mind-y/
It is only free if it is within 5 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first. Since the last model year was 2007, the warranty expired in 2012. I had the repair priced in 2014 and was told that it would cost $262 and that the warranty was gone.
Hello again. I sent you another email regarding the repair. I hope to hear from you soon. Thank you.
there has got to be an easier way. maybe building a new door stop on the existing hinges and just remove this piece of junk.
No need to do the repair yourself when Toyota will do it free. They replaced the whole door and repainted the door to match my body color.
packyeow hi how I can do it
just call any dealer?
Javier R yes just tell them that you know it's part of the TSB and you want it replaced or repaired.
Far too much work for an old Sienna. Drill and rivet where the spot welds are broken is MUCH easier. Metal filler is a very good substitute for a crack in the pocket. This is how I repaired mine without removal. If it had 30,000 miles on it, then I would do it this way. Mine has 150k. Both my auto rear door cables are broken too. I just removed the cables for manual operation. Horrible design just like this. The longer I own this, the more disappointed I become.
panelpros@gmail.com
Complete waste of time and overthought. Just pop rivet it (door in place)
Why didn't you just put a big ole Gallup of Vaseline on the check? LOL JK