No surprise you didn't like the bolts (!) that attached the vat to the bed, those are only transport protection - those are only for transport and supposed to be replaced with the proper bolts with the knob on it.
Couple three things. First, the metal scrapers that come with the 3d printers are not good. They typically have burrs which can scrape your build plate and the angle of the grind is just too sharp. Spend the money to get a good 2" paint scraper from Warner or Level 5 and you'll never have to replace it. Second, to avoid dripping resin, use a properly sized tray made to go under plants. I got this from Fauxhammer. Slide the tray under the still-mounted build plate. Release the build plate and then extract both tray and build plate. Then lay your build plate on it's side in the tray, lay the tray on a bench or desk and use the quality paint scraper you just bought to gently pry the models off the build plate. Be aware that these build plates hold a lot of resin, some of which will drip into your try during the process. Replace the build plate in your printer using the tray again to avoid dripping. Now start your rinsing sequence, whatever that is. I use a three-stage process that ends with five minutes in a wash station, and it works like gangbusters. What's new with the Saturn 4 and the Mars 5 is the amount of resin that has dripped makes it worthwhile to then pour the dripped resin back into your vat, assuming you keep your tray clean. Third, use ABS-like resin for your delicate minis as @jamiehuebsch suggests. It is ten times better than standard resin.
Brittle parts have nothing to do with the printer. The model's design and the "strength" of the resin used are two factors that play into these things. From what I've seen, Phrozen's RPG resin is quite strong and flexible but there are other resins out there too that can produce much, much stronger minis compared to the normal resins.
I'm not surprised all the thin parts broke with that resin you used, it's a brittle type. If your gonna print small minis with thin parts you would be better off using a ABS-like or Toughness resin.
The 1 year warranty shouldn't be a deterrent since every company offers the same warranty. I have 2 FDM printer and got 1 year warranty on both of them.
![🔴 ฟุตบอลแชมป์กีฬา 7HD แชมเปียน คัพ 2024 [รอบรองชนะเลิศ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zPm8ClLVhoE/mqdefault.jpg)
No surprise you didn't like the bolts (!) that attached the vat to the bed, those are only transport protection - those are only for transport and supposed to be replaced with the proper bolts with the knob on it.
Couple three things. First, the metal scrapers that come with the 3d printers are not good. They typically have burrs which can scrape your build plate and the angle of the grind is just too sharp. Spend the money to get a good 2" paint scraper from Warner or Level 5 and you'll never have to replace it. Second, to avoid dripping resin, use a properly sized tray made to go under plants. I got this from Fauxhammer. Slide the tray under the still-mounted build plate. Release the build plate and then extract both tray and build plate. Then lay your build plate on it's side in the tray, lay the tray on a bench or desk and use the quality paint scraper you just bought to gently pry the models off the build plate. Be aware that these build plates hold a lot of resin, some of which will drip into your try during the process. Replace the build plate in your printer using the tray again to avoid dripping. Now start your rinsing sequence, whatever that is. I use a three-stage process that ends with five minutes in a wash station, and it works like gangbusters. What's new with the Saturn 4 and the Mars 5 is the amount of resin that has dripped makes it worthwhile to then pour the dripped resin back into your vat, assuming you keep your tray clean. Third, use ABS-like resin for your delicate minis as @jamiehuebsch suggests. It is ten times better than standard resin.
Brittle parts have nothing to do with the printer. The model's design and the "strength" of the resin used are two factors that play into these things. From what I've seen, Phrozen's RPG resin is quite strong and flexible but there are other resins out there too that can produce much, much stronger minis compared to the normal resins.
sick samus in the light suit and lilth you 3d print tho man
I'm not surprised all the thin parts broke with that resin you used, it's a brittle type. If your gonna print small minis with thin parts you would be better off using a ABS-like or Toughness resin.
I’m confused as to why the paper thin print fragility is due to the printer and not the part design. Can you elaborate?
The 1 year warranty shouldn't be a deterrent since every company offers the same warranty. I have 2 FDM printer and got 1 year warranty on both of them.