Literally no one has posted a video of removing the crank on 99-02 Timken Twin Cam HD. It's a freaking Unicorn. I got the manual, but dam it would be nice if someone posted a vid.
Consider where you are measuring, a worn shaft that has been worn because of the runout. It skews the result. Plus consider when measuring in cases on roller bearings the result may, depending on the year of manufacture, be skewed by the cases no longer being line bored as a matched pair. The main bearing alignment is subject to manufacturing tolerances.
The runout at the point where you measured it is pretty good to start off with so if you only had to true it a little I would be very optimistic. I think what MrChopemup is talking about though is when people go to extremes in the tuning and he may have a point if the bike is going to be thrashed and abused. I had 8 thou runout and it never changed despite my increasing the displacement , changing cams etc etc. When I had the engine rebuilt to 113 cui with big cams using a CVO top end with porting etc , the crank was refurbished here in England and included new rollers, truing and welding the crank so it had less than 1 thou runout. The bike makes over 120 bhp and torque and is quite a handful to ride if you try to wheelie etc because Harleys aren't meant for that kind of abuse (and my being 60 kind of puts paid to THAT ! ), but overall it is extremely good fun as it makes a lot of people scratch their heads when I do wind it up.... the best bit is the noise - it sounds like a drag racer ! Most people only want gear driven cams to avoid the dreaded engine failures that are possible but not certain to happen if you ride the bike for what it is - if you want silly-fast then you will need to spend a shed-load of money to bring any Harley up to the standards of a sportsbike as far as handling/braking are concerned.... my 113 inch engine promptly ate the gearbox main bearing as I tried putting all that power through a 70k mile drive train.... one lives and learns - hopefully !
Agreed most people go gear drive as it negates all the chains and slipper pads and releases more power just by virtue of its own mechanism needing less effort to turn it. In fairness most cranks we see have less than 0.004" so the need for correction is quite small proportionately.
That measurement can't be taken with the crankshaft in the case. When the manual states "shaft at flywheel" it means shaft at flywheel. It also means without consideration of case bearing tolerances added. The measurement is taken in a roller stand with the crankshaft supported on the bearing races and the indicator placed next to the flywheels on that same bearing race.
I accept what you are saying, however for most street applications on the install of gear drive it's all about the relative runout for the meshing pinion and cam outer gears, so this measurement represents that. We are not blue printing here we are simply ensuring that the meshing gears engagement is okay.
@@andyforbes-buckingham1183 You're right on that one. The twin cam design just doesn't lend itself well to a quiet gear drive cam setup without a lot of modification. A trued-then-welded crankshaft and Timken style left bearing conversion for the newer stuff is really the only way to see beneficial gains in stability. With the flat bearing on that right side, the measurement you're taking will not represent the true path of the pinion shaft. When the engine is running the centrifugal force will cause the shaft to "wobble" in that bearing. You just can't recreate that path by rotating the engine by hand. I'm sure you certainly helped this engine with your efforts but, unfortunately, research shows that the improvement is only temporary without the other mods to help.
Not exactly sure what point you are trying to make here. We rebuild many cranks, Shovel, evo and TC and are not troubled with repeat failures. Be interested in you own experience?
![เบิ้ล ปทุมราช - อ้ายกินดอง น้องลาบงัว ft. สแน็ก อัจฉรีย์ [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-OK--KaSPcI/mqdefault.jpg)
Literally no one has posted a video of removing the crank on 99-02 Timken Twin Cam HD. It's a freaking Unicorn. I got the manual, but dam it would be nice if someone posted a vid.
Consider where you are measuring, a worn shaft that has been worn because of the runout. It skews the result. Plus consider when measuring in cases on roller bearings the result may, depending on the year of manufacture, be skewed by the cases no longer being line bored as a matched pair. The main bearing alignment is subject to manufacturing tolerances.
The runout at the point where you measured it is pretty good to start off with so if you only had to true it a little I would be very optimistic. I think what MrChopemup is talking about though is when people go to extremes in the tuning and he may have a point if the bike is going to be thrashed and abused.
I had 8 thou runout and it never changed despite my increasing the displacement , changing cams etc etc. When I had the engine rebuilt to 113 cui with big cams using a CVO top end with porting etc , the crank was refurbished here in England and included new rollers, truing and welding the crank so it had less than 1 thou runout. The bike makes over 120 bhp and torque and is quite a handful to ride if you try to wheelie etc because Harleys aren't meant for that kind of abuse (and my being 60 kind of puts paid to THAT ! ), but overall it is extremely good fun as it makes a lot of people scratch their heads when I do wind it up.... the best bit is the noise - it sounds like a drag racer !
Most people only want gear driven cams to avoid the dreaded engine failures that are possible but not certain to happen if you ride the bike for what it is - if you want silly-fast then you will need to spend a shed-load of money to bring any Harley up to the standards of a sportsbike as far as handling/braking are concerned.... my 113 inch engine promptly ate the gearbox main bearing as I tried putting all that power through a 70k mile drive train.... one lives and learns - hopefully !
Agreed most people go gear drive as it negates all the chains and slipper pads and releases more power just by virtue of its own mechanism needing less effort to turn it. In fairness most cranks we see have less than 0.004" so the need for correction is quite small proportionately.
That measurement can't be taken with the crankshaft in the case. When the manual states "shaft at flywheel" it means shaft at flywheel. It also means without consideration of case bearing tolerances added. The measurement is taken in a roller stand with the crankshaft supported on the bearing races and the indicator placed next to the flywheels on that same bearing race.
I accept what you are saying, however for most street applications on the install of gear drive it's all about the relative runout for the meshing pinion and cam outer gears, so this measurement represents that. We are not blue printing here we are simply ensuring that the meshing gears engagement is okay.
@@andyforbes-buckingham1183 You're right on that one. The twin cam design just doesn't lend itself well to a quiet gear drive cam setup without a lot of modification. A trued-then-welded crankshaft and Timken style left bearing conversion for the newer stuff is really the only way to see beneficial gains in stability.
With the flat bearing on that right side, the measurement you're taking will not represent the true path of the pinion shaft. When the engine is running the centrifugal force will cause the shaft to "wobble" in that bearing. You just can't recreate that path by rotating the engine by hand.
I'm sure you certainly helped this engine with your efforts but, unfortunately, research shows that the improvement is only temporary without the other mods to help.
One day HD might make a decent crank right from the factory [in a Universe far far away ........................................
Typical..twin cam ..You repaired it. But it wont last. Also need to weld it which puts it out of whack. Buyer beware
Not exactly sure what point you are trying to make here. We rebuild many cranks, Shovel, evo and TC and are not troubled with repeat failures. Be interested in you own experience?
MrChopemup Bullshit