I don't think solder on traces helps. That is not an issue. Issue would be mosfets ratings, their temperature when working at high current, heat dissipation. Thick traces would be overkill. Adding small fan or heatpipes would help with the heating.
yeah it's more than just beefing up the lines and changing mosfets as you don't exactly know which ones are best seen a guy on reddit talk about particular mosfets he used and they didn't burn after few km)) but for my application it might not help as I'm using 48v battery....
I actually got my original controller (which was the best one i recon) burned up from over-use as it broke originally. That's not just my bad, but what i ordered was lied about and i never got a new original pro2 controller. I did however charge my pro2 up to the max from nothing and went for a ride down-hill. Breaking at certain sections fryed the rails. I could then see that reinforcing it could have saved me that time. But i am afraid it wouldn't matter anyways since it can happen again if the scooter is too hot, max battery, and you break a lot down-hill right after you hit max charge. I still did repair my older controller, i got 3 but 2 works and my original is dead. If the controllers are lacking anything in my opinion, it has got to be cooling solutions with how horribly hot they tend to get randomly.
Cool stuff really useful to get tried and tested advice on the settings. I have 3 controllers in a box somewhere, I'm gonna give this a shot see if I have the beefy traces too. My m365 is a 1s running the pro custom firmware, so I'm guessing it doesn't have the traces beefed up. There's a nice guide on scooterhacking's wiki on swapping mosfets and caps to support higher battery voltage (12s basically), might try that for next summer.
I was thinking of doing this with my Aovo 365(clone) but they encapsulated the whole board:( -You would think 0n this that they'd screw the FETs down and use a blob of Angel sh*t (heat transfer compound) on the thermal feedback at least wouldn't you? It might be worth trying, you might get a few more Amp out of it yet-just make sure you use screw insulators when screwing down the fets,TBH the heatsink looks a bit pap-I'd be tempted at something like a CPU cooler or even 3 little ones-1 for each phase, I'm going to see if I can get some Xiaomi esc's-I've got extra battery, Motor and an urge for a fast 2wd :) . All the best.
You should get a spade or a knife tip for this sort of work that tip isn't ideal and maybe also look into upgrading those MOSFETs just make sure the controller doesn't use the MOSFET's Rds on for sensing. current.
The traces on my mosfets were with much less solder. I fluxed in much more just to reinforce them but I'm still afraid to flash it and boost the speed. It's my daily to work, 7 km trip each way. I have 700 km on the clock
Use some good thermal pads under the mosfetsi used gelid extreme they were around 12-15 euros but 17/Wmk and some good quality paste under the controller i saw 30+c difference controller stopped overheating even at 1kw.
what temp do you read after modification with thermal compunds and pads? My esc/controller temp sensor reads around 60 degrees during 800 watt power pull from the battery during summer time at 30 celcious outdoor temperature
As you were mentioning the 35 amps uphill in 2 people, did you do it before the controller reinforcement or after? I am running 30 amps right now in a hilly area and its too weak so i am considering to juice it up a little more. Thanks and have a wonderful day.
I had it on good authority that it needs reinforcing to go to 35 .. when opening my pro2 I did notice that it was already reinforced .. but there still were narrow spots on the main power traces .. so .. my advice would be to reinforce yours .. pour as much solder as you can to make sure no hot spots form you'll be riding with way more peace of my that way
@@Darieee but you were driving it 35 Amps before reinforcing right? I put it on 34, the temps dont seem to be that high ... During KERS mode the Amps are a little higher so i dont see its that much of a problem. Maybe a little later i will reinforce it. But thanks. I have heard that 35 is just fine for Pro 2
Hello, I wanted to ask you 2 questions, the first is what those 100 volt MOSFETs are called, and the second is, can the control unit without modifications of the pro 2 handle 58 volts without causing damage?
extra chunky solder wont help much there. clean it off put copperbusbar that go the length and goes to fets and pwr (coppersheet cutout the shape and solder it to controller and u never gonna blow the traces
with the thermalpads remove capton tape inside controller put a long strip 0.5mm-1.0mm thermalpad instead of the captontape(make sure the fets is not in direct contact with housing cover bit extra length/with on the pad to prevent it, under controller housing dont use thermalpads they are not as effective as thermal compound.
I have an M365, and I did the same thing, not quite as thick with the solder, but I added some bus bars. Then I added another battery in parallel, and my wife scooter is the exact same thing, but no mods completely stock controller stock battery. all I did was change the firmware on the battery and put custom firmware on the controller. the same exact firmware that I'm using, and hers is faster. Lol, the only difference between the two scooters is hers has stock tires and I have 10 inch tires. It has to be the tires. I'm happy with the speed overall. I don't think there's really a need to go much faster. it'll do 29kph. But I weigh 200 lb, and I want a little more power to go uphill. I'm thinking about reinforcing my controller to go to 72v but just limiting the amperage to like 25ish amps.... according to what I've read 35 is about the Max. But even if I run 72 volt at 18 amps its still twice the wattage.
Can you help me. How to remove DRV VER SPOOFING:555 on my mi scooter 3. Because i cannot put an external battery for the reason that i cant disable charging mode no matter i custom firmware. 😢. Hope you notice me. Thanks in advance.
10:28 Is that yellow tape kapton tape? You really need to remove that as that is a insulating tape and will totally ruin the thermal conductivity for the mosfets.
it sounds like your buck DC DC converter is failing I would suggest either never turning on the headlight or changing the ESC (electronic speed controller), also called the DRV, the one next to the battery, as soon as possible
whhhheeeeaaaaa .. hmm .. shhhhould be fiiine if you reinforced your controller and don't go down super aggressive hills without a mechanical brake ... ought be fine I reinforced my controller and I think it was 37 or 38 even with 37 it brakes OK on electrical only (had my rear wheel mounted the wrong way) if you fear finding a replacement ESC - maybe go 40 🥶
you need a "speed external battery" for that .. there is no hardware (DC-DC converter) inside the scooter to allow manipulating the pack voltage one way or another
there sure is - the hotter it is outside the hotter the stuff will get under these heavy loads if you live in a cold climate you should be totally fine though
Funny thing I went to a guy today who fixes electric scooters so he can downgrade my ble version , he said that he leaves the max draw at 900W for pro 2 and 800W for 1s etc... Without reinforcing.I thought it was too much especialy since I live in greece but it seemed like he has been doing that for some time to xiaomi scooters.I changed it mine ofcourse when I came back in my house since I've been reading that 30A is the maximum.
Why the hell did you put Thermal pad on the back of controler. New thermal paste is the right solution like on computer CPU. You won't EVER see pads there. Youcan put 1 mm thermal tape under mosets ( but remove original yellow tape from there (it has worse thermal conductivity than thermal pad)
![XIAOMI PRO2 Battery - Repair 2 [Manual Balancing]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cnYXY7I52V4/mqdefault.jpg)
I don't think solder on traces helps. That is not an issue. Issue would be mosfets ratings, their temperature when working at high current, heat dissipation.
Thick traces would be overkill. Adding small fan or heatpipes would help with the heating.
yeah it's more than just beefing up the lines and changing mosfets as you don't exactly know which ones are best
seen a guy on reddit talk about particular mosfets he used and they didn't burn after few km)) but for my application it might not help as I'm using 48v battery....
Thank you for deciding to clean the thermal compound in the last second
I actually got my original controller (which was the best one i recon) burned up from over-use as it broke originally. That's not just my bad, but what i ordered was lied about and i never got a new original pro2 controller. I did however charge my pro2 up to the max from nothing and went for a ride down-hill. Breaking at certain sections fryed the rails. I could then see that reinforcing it could have saved me that time. But i am afraid it wouldn't matter anyways since it can happen again if the scooter is too hot, max battery, and you break a lot down-hill right after you hit max charge. I still did repair my older controller, i got 3 but 2 works and my original is dead. If the controllers are lacking anything in my opinion, it has got to be cooling solutions with how horribly hot they tend to get randomly.
Cool stuff really useful to get tried and tested advice on the settings. I have 3 controllers in a box somewhere, I'm gonna give this a shot see if I have the beefy traces too. My m365 is a 1s running the pro custom firmware, so I'm guessing it doesn't have the traces beefed up.
There's a nice guide on scooterhacking's wiki on swapping mosfets and caps to support higher battery voltage (12s basically), might try that for next summer.
do let us know how the beefing up goes 🤘
given the amount of effort I would have laid some de-soldering braid or thick wire down just to add some copper to the mix
yeah .. would've been nice .. might do that next time I'll open it up
Need a bigger soldering iron for that, I just did it on mine a bit tricky to do.
@@mrm1885 yeah the board and traces suck heat out of irons even at 400°C
I was thinking of doing this with my Aovo 365(clone) but they encapsulated the whole board:( -You would think 0n this that they'd screw the FETs down and use a blob of Angel sh*t (heat transfer compound) on the thermal feedback at least wouldn't you? It might be worth trying, you might get a few more Amp out of it yet-just make sure you use screw insulators when screwing down the fets,TBH the heatsink looks a bit pap-I'd be tempted at something like a CPU cooler or even 3 little ones-1 for each phase, I'm going to see if I can get some Xiaomi esc's-I've got extra battery, Motor and an urge for a fast 2wd :) . All the best.
still .. I'd say obstacle number one with a generic controller is flashing it to actually make it want to push harder
Hi i got the same scooter as you have, just have 35 km/h mod done. But struggles uphill, do you recommend doing this mod ?
You should get a spade or a knife tip for this sort of work that tip isn't ideal and maybe also look into upgrading those MOSFETs just make sure the controller doesn't use the MOSFET's Rds on for sensing. current.
The traces on my mosfets were with much less solder. I fluxed in much more just to reinforce them but I'm still afraid to flash it and boost the speed. It's my daily to work, 7 km trip each way. I have 700 km on the clock
Use some good thermal pads under the mosfetsi used gelid extreme they were around 12-15 euros but 17/Wmk and some good quality paste under the controller i saw 30+c difference controller stopped overheating even at 1kw.
what temp do you read after modification with thermal compunds and pads? My esc/controller temp sensor reads around 60 degrees during 800 watt power pull from the battery during summer time at 30 celcious outdoor temperature
As you were mentioning the 35 amps uphill in 2 people, did you do it before the controller reinforcement or after? I am running 30 amps right now in a hilly area and its too weak so i am considering to juice it up a little more. Thanks and have a wonderful day.
I had it on good authority that it needs reinforcing to go to 35 ..
when opening my pro2 I did notice that it was already reinforced .. but there still were narrow spots on the main power traces ..
so .. my advice would be to reinforce yours .. pour as much solder as you can to make sure no hot spots form
you'll be riding with way more peace of my that way
@@Darieee but you were driving it 35 Amps before reinforcing right? I put it on 34, the temps dont seem to be that high ... During KERS mode the Amps are a little higher so i dont see its that much of a problem. Maybe a little later i will reinforce it. But thanks. I have heard that 35 is just fine for Pro 2
noo - I don't think I did more than 28A without reinforcing it
@@Darieee anyways thanks
@@Darieee any update ?
U use 35 on original pro2 controller?
Hi was there much of a power upgrade' how did it go ?
where is the f2 fuse in this board please ?
Hello, I wanted to ask you 2 questions, the first is what those 100 volt MOSFETs are called, and the second is, can the control unit without modifications of the pro 2 handle 58 volts without causing damage?
😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 ...WHAAAAAAT O shiiiiit😂😂😂😂
extra chunky solder wont help much there. clean it off put copperbusbar that go the length and goes to fets and pwr (coppersheet cutout the shape and solder it to controller and u never gonna blow the traces
with the thermalpads remove capton tape inside controller put a long strip 0.5mm-1.0mm thermalpad instead of the captontape(make sure the fets is not in direct contact with housing cover bit extra length/with on the pad to prevent it, under controller housing dont use thermalpads they are not as effective as thermal compound.
I have an M365, and I did the same thing, not quite as thick with the solder, but I added some bus bars. Then I added another battery in parallel, and my wife scooter is the exact same thing, but no mods completely stock controller stock battery. all I did was change the firmware on the battery and put custom firmware on the controller. the same exact firmware that I'm using, and hers is faster. Lol, the only difference between the two scooters is hers has stock tires and I have 10 inch tires. It has to be the tires.
I'm happy with the speed overall. I don't think there's really a need to go much faster. it'll do 29kph. But I weigh 200 lb, and I want a little more power to go uphill. I'm thinking about reinforcing my controller to go to 72v but just limiting the amperage to like 25ish amps.... according to what I've read 35 is about the Max. But even if I run 72 volt at 18 amps its still twice the wattage.
sounds like a cool plan - do let me know what current you end up settling on at 72V if you go that route 🤘
My 1s is with stock Controller at 1,23 kw Output.and it works fine.
jesus christ.
rock on.
but .. does the stock 1s battery support that kind of output ??
Holly sh*t how can controller handle that amount power?
@@Darieee yeah my app says the max reading of watt 1023 watt at peak
@@skygnd i dont know man. I was getting higher and higher with the amps an then.there it was 1023 watt,s But i dont want to do higher
Can you help me. How to remove DRV VER SPOOFING:555 on my mi scooter 3. Because i cannot put an external battery for the reason that i cant disable charging mode no matter i custom firmware. 😢. Hope you notice me. Thanks in advance.
Hola,Hola que tal La soldadura de estaño de plata seria mejor o simplemente estaño normal
10:28 Is that yellow tape kapton tape? You really need to remove that as that is a insulating tape and will totally ruin the thermal conductivity for the mosfets.
I'm rather certain the bodies of the FETS need not be in electrical contact with one another tho
i have an issue that is when i turn on headlight , the dashboard is off and motor become slower and headlight is low .. how can i repaire it please ?
it sounds like your buck DC DC converter is failing
I would suggest either never turning on the headlight
or changing the ESC (electronic speed controller), also called the DRV, the one next to the battery, as soon as possible
@@Darieee in general without turn on headlight the speed become 15km/h instead of 25km/h , because the dashboard is watered
can i just changing the dashboard ? because the controller apparent condition is intact
What kind of mods or to change on v3 controller to handle high volt battery?
My scooter cuts out when riding do you know how to fix this I’ve tired lowering the amps tried New batteries and still hasn’t worked plz help
maybe there's something off with your controller ...
My brake max break amp is 55 is it dangerous? Standard I have 31 in sports mode with reininforcing
the BMS
whhhheeeeaaaaa .. hmm .. shhhhould be fiiine
if you reinforced your controller and don't go down super aggressive hills without a mechanical brake ... ought be fine
I reinforced my controller and I think it was 37 or 38 even
with 37 it brakes OK on electrical only (had my rear wheel mounted the wrong way)
if you fear finding a replacement ESC - maybe go 40 🥶
nice, thanks sir
This wil work in a xiaomi 1S? i've been told that the motor controller it's the same.
yea - don't go above 750W though
@@DarieeeI'm planning on going as high as possible, with more soldering iron and a cooling fan to the moffsets , how high do you think i can go?
Can I buy this moderboard and change it on my M365 Pro?? (I mean the normal one, not the v2)
YOURS ON PRO IS BETTER THEN PRO2 TRUST ME. DRV 155 russel trottle 1kw of power .TRUST ME!!💪👍
Why don’t you touch on the maximum limits?
60A is safe?
It might burn the engine, controller unless you upgrade
I just put 350w on mi xiaomi s1 should i do this on my controller ?
should help
hey mate,do you know where i can buy an external battery?
facebook.com/groups/316926456035181/?ref=share
tell him darie sent you over ✌️
very cool friendly and reliable guy
How do I make my own firmware for more voltage??
Did I find out ?
you need a "speed external battery" for that ..
there is no hardware (DC-DC converter) inside the scooter to allow manipulating the pack voltage one way or another
is it possible for the cables to overheat and melt withs this firmware?
there sure is - the hotter it is outside the hotter the stuff will get under these heavy loads
if you live in a cold climate you should be totally fine though
@@Darieee thank you mate,can i install your firmware at a not reinforced xiaomi pro 2?
you sure can
it might work just fine, or it might overheat a track and burn it
@@Darieeeim going to do the same with you but minus 1 point in every category just for sure
So what’s your new top speed ? 😅
35 ? on a new and fully charged battery
Funny thing I went to a guy today who fixes electric scooters so he can downgrade my ble version , he said that he leaves the max draw at 900W for pro 2 and 800W for 1s etc... Without reinforcing.I thought it was too much especialy since I live in greece but it seemed like he has been doing that for some time to xiaomi scooters.I changed it mine ofcourse when I came back in my house since I've been reading that 30A is the maximum.
Why the hell did you put Thermal pad on the back of controler. New thermal paste is the right solution like on computer CPU. You won't EVER see pads there. Youcan put 1 mm thermal tape under mosets ( but remove original yellow tape from there (it has worse thermal conductivity than thermal pad)
doesnt work for my scooter 3…firmware is new
Why not just take nickel on top?