the idea of inserting the new capacitors inside the container of the original is very nice, it perfectly preserves its originality, making it functional in the same. It doesn't matter if you need to use modern components to repair it, just leave the old component to show what was before the new component.
@@bhoot1702 The tube acts like a high voltage capacitor holding charge even when powered off. Newer CRT TVs have a discharge resistor that discharge the tube slowly. The TV he modded may not have a discharge resistor in it. He/She may have discharged the tube manually using a screwdriver connected to DAG ground, but he/she also may have not. And he/she may get close to the charged tube trying to remove the circuit board.
I used such TV as a monitor for my БК-0010.01 in the early 90s. The picture quality in 512x256 mode was great. I had a real multimedia PC - with a flick of a switch I could switch back the radio channel and watch television. A very nice unit for its time period.
Having worked as a repair tech my entire career on TVs from Japan, South Korea the UK, USA, Australia & even New Zealand i can see that this one follows the same kind of design basics but wow, some of those Soviet parts are really different. That makes this set rare on account they sure are never going to be ever made like this again!!!
which parta(s) in particular? back in the days the only usable ICs were 74 series, everything else were discreet elements. Vacuum tubes were still in use in the 80s.
@@stanimir4197 That oil can capacitor in that TV is not something one would expect to run into in a TV. Vacuum tubes were quite niche in the consumer space by the 1980s. They were only used in what tubes would still be used in today. Certain audio gear for the "tube sound". We were transistorized by the 80s though. CMOS came out in 1968 and were usable. You need to realize that months before this particular TV here rolled out the door the IBM 5150 PC was introduced. Apple had been in business for years too. So the PC era had dawned in the west before that TV was bought.
@@1pcfred Actually, I was lucky enough to have had Apple II. Still, I was wondering which components look so alien - the oil cap is a far point. Germanium transistors (and diodes) still existed in the late 80s and some of the 90s. Oddly enough many of computer designs were copied, and those had CPUs (up to 286 clones) and all the ICs back then, however outside computers most stuff were discreet elements.
@@stanimir4197 when the Soviets copied our chips they even included company logos into their masks. Just in case they played any role in operation. Or maybe they were just too lazy to edit them out? Frankly we don't know why they did it. We just know they did. In communist Russia when you're told to copy something you copy it exactly.
@@stanimir4197 I'll go with no huge "TV Jungle Chip" that did everything & more that was in in TVsets by the 80s & were colour. A complex powersupply involving the LOPTI so there was no lump of iron. It would be neat to see the sides of the VHF/UHF tuners and whether there were any any SMDs for the MOSFETs or is it all standard discrete through -hole. Even the really physically big individual diodes for the bridge when Japanese sets would be using a single package... It looks like the manufactures had had a budget & were forced to make old production parts do the job.
I find it a very good idea to use the old components casings over the new ones, to preserve the original look. Thanks for your efforts preparing the video !
24:09 this is not an oil capacitor! This is just the metallized paper capacitor. Letters МБГО mean Металлизированные\Metallized Бумажные\Paper Герметизированные\Sealed Однослойные\One-layered конденсаторы\capacitors.
15:05 those are KSO type silver-mica capacitors in molded plastic case, picofarad range. They have stable parameters in time and very low losses at high frequency
23:47 wax capacitor. So maybe this was the place where the chinese got inspired to fill the dent on modern e-waste recycled capacitors used on new SMPS'?
I really enjoy your exploration of Soviet made products. Placing the new capacitors inside the cans of the original capacitors is a great idea. On can get a working device and at the same time keep the internals representing the look of when it was made. It is a valuable piece in terms of comparing the wiring and size and number of components used in 1981 compared to basically one modular set of low profile boards with ICs and surface mount components in the current TVs and display monitors. Thanks for the video and I look forward to the next episode.
IDK why anyone call putting new caps into old ones "cheating". it's common practice in restoration - the important thing is to document any modification that is made. The set will be working reliably and the aspect is preserved: is a win-win situation. In a museal recostruction perspective the important thing is to document the choice so it can be reverted. But a damaged component can't be reverted back: is just damaged, and must be changed. Preserving the aspect in such a way is a good thing. Documenting the process is crucial: pictures, schematics and notes for any future technician that will be servicing it.
The thick layer of very fine black dust on CRT is attracted by the high voltage static electricity of the surface of the CRT after years and years of use.
The variac might have stressed the flyback circuit. The horizontal drive in older sets often relies on a seperate oscillater which must be running when the drive transistor starts conducting. If ramping up the voltage caused the horizontal output to conduct before starting to oscillate, it got stressed and burned out.
yes thats why variacs should not be used on tvs....on valve tvs you can disconnect the top cap of the horizontal output valve....if you dont it will red plate and melt inside in minutes, if the oscillator doesnt start it draws a massive amount of current
@@MrHBSoftwareit is so when it’s turned off and the deflection stops it doesnt burn a spot in the phosphor because the deflection stops long before the electron beam
Some of those transistors have the logo of AS ALFA RPAR, a company which still exists in Riga, Latvia. They've made good business in recent years reproducing the old CEM analog synth ICs.
I always put new components inside the old enclosures when restoring vintage electronics. It's not cheating, and even if sold so long as disclosure is made. Nobody should have a problem with it. In fact, when I repaired TVs and radios back in the 1970s, I often did this if the replacement part looked a lot different than the original part. For example a bright plastic package in a unit with lots of dull colored parts or paper wrapped capacitors.
You can use an Arduino (Arduino TV out library) to output basic analog video signal and display some basic geometric shapes, text...(there's a demo useful for testing such analog devices with a simple signal)
he could just use anything around the house....a dvd player, a vcr, a cable tv box, over the air digital tv box whatever...why an arduino?....he can inject composite video on the base of the video amp transistor and audio on the volume pot. then tune into a quiet channel or disable the IF circuitry or the tuner. he can also buy a channel 3 modulator for very cheap and convert composite video and audio to real rf signal
use ms paint to make a test pattern. save it as a picture on usb. insert the usb on dvd player. connect to tv. use a modulator if needed. thats what i did. i did not have to pull out my arduino.
34:37 audiophiles have no reason to be screaming, this is fine and actually can be even better. Now the best would definitely be a polyester capacitor.
@@Basement-Science you’re correct.., a lot of them don’t. Especially the “ loud ones in the forums and everywhere else. But that’s not the case with the entire community. Some of them are not only quite reasonable, but geniuses and pioneers of sound research. Sadly they are the quietest, always overshadowed by the screaming idiots. I am the furthest thing you can get from an audio fool. When clients bring Vintage Guitars to be restored, or I’m building a vintage reproduction Les Paul… I try not to laugh in their face when they demand old worn out bumblebee capacitor’s because they “sound different“. ⚡️ My other business is component level circuit board repair for a wide range of industrial and government clients. A lot of test equipment repair, and metrology stuff. I’m not opposed to the ideas of the audiophile Community, but only if there’s precision, repeatable, and peer reviewed results… Taken with professional test equipment, certified with current NIST calibration standards. So many confirmation bias test and results have been seen in the audiophile community for years.
@@hullinstruments I'd argue those people that actually approach the subject scientifically shouldn't be called (or call themselves) audiophiles. Personally I'm not really interested in the subject because 98% of the problems have an extremely easy solution: Headphones. Designing those yourself is pretty hopeless anyway. I'm not a musician, but if I was, knowing that ALL effects you can achieve with analog electronics can just as well or better be achieved digitally, I dont see the point. It seems like people not understanding this is the reason why 99% of these 'audiophiles' exist in the first place.
I've seen stuffed capacitors (main filter caps) in modern ATX PSU. I don't know how it's profitable but they did it. They put small capacitors into big ones to make them look better on the board. Saying that, I've also seen PFC inductors with no windings inside. Just some plastic case, metal core and wire going straight in and out of it.
Thank you. I really enjoyed your video and found it fascinating to see the old Soviet components. Really looking forward to seeing the follow up. Cheers from the UK
Yea, they were produced to be used. It's not like they are an inanimate object, like paintings or porcelain of some kind. I like your use of the stuffing method too. But if it's making you feel awkward about hiding them, you could always disclose that modification if you decide to sell it on.
@@anthonydenn4345 I havent done a lot of restorations yet, but I did stuff the large electrolytics because they are big, visible and on top of the chassis in most cases. Some electrolytics are under a chassis or hidden away, some are mounted with a bolt wich I just cut out of circuit and mount some new ones. Each situation, another solution. To all... dont throw old equipment away, put it on sale. Doesnt matter if it is broke and doesnt work.
Brightness/power switch. The TV doesn't have a spot killer on power off. If you turn the brightness down to turn it off you automatically become the spot killer. On a TV without a spot killer or a broken circuit the CRT filament will stay warm for some time after you turn it off. The raster fails because of power off so the still hot filament and residual HV will cause a bright static spot to show on the screen for some time. Do this enough times and you can get burn in.
Thing from my childhood. In these days usual fix was a quick whack on top or aside which nudged some cold solderings in place. Helped for older tube based TVs too. Didn't helped for dried capacitors though. Also these TVs came with circuit diagrams. Wish new electronics would have circuit diagrams at least in download.
We had similar BW TV, in late 1980. Once the channel changing knob broke off and channel was fixed where there was no signal. For 3 months, we were forced to watch the static B/W dots on screen.
Hi, you should replace all the PIO capacitors in the horizontal output. 99% their leakiness caused the line output transistor to fail. This is a germanium line output transistor which is very difficult to substitute with a silicon one. But you can still get the original from ebay. It will work with silicon transistors but there will be vertical bars on the picture due to high frequency parasitic oscillations in the horizontal circuit. There are some tricks to avoid it, but this includes rewinding the horizontal driver transformer.
i dont see any PIO on this one...if the width capacitor is leaky it will stress the flyback and output transistor....on valve sets its called the boost capacitor...very common failure
@@mrnmrn1 i am not familiar with soviet stuff and surely i missed it but i only saw orange fim caps and radial electrolytic caps and some rectangular brown ones that look like old mica caps
@@mrnmrn1 you wre right there are paper in oil caps there....i never said you werent right :)..but they were not leaky to the poit of causing an instant H.O.T short...problem will be something else
Well in communist USSR the state owned factory that made this TV didn't have to make a profit. Also compared to western TVs from around 1981, this TV looks like it could have been from the 1960s, especially given it's mostly germanium transistors, and a lot of metalwork.
@@michaelturner4457 In the 60's western TV sets had vacuum tubes. Transistors came later. This soviet TV set is very good quality. Just look at the cable lacing. Also the 12V supply feature was very rare in western TV sets. This TV could run from a car battery and can charge it too.
@@andreasproteus1465 Actually solid state TVs started appearing in the mid to late 1960s, and by early 70s many TVs were completely solid state, especially from Japanese manufacturers. This TV was apparently made in 1981, based on component dates, yet it uses mostly GERMANIUM transistors, NOT SILICON, which is definitely1960s, even 50s technology.
@@andreasproteus1465 Actually a 12V supply that could also run on a vehicle battery was very common in monochrome western portables, even in the late 60s.
Price molded into plastic case - that is crazy and I love it! Imagine buying the unit 20yrs later at the same price. I guess the old CCCP didnt use the concept of "On Special!" or "Half Price!" that everything seems to be today.
Prices staying the same for 20-30 years was the norm. They wanted prices always the same, and then slowly increase the wages everyone is paid as the country becomes more productive. The idea is always to match the demand to the supply... unfortunately, the wage increases came too fast, so eventually, everyone could afford anything they wanted, but had a hard time finding it. The stamped in price was especially to make sure that no shitty shopkeeper in a distant area didn't overprice his goods and rip people off. A good idea.
Nice ergonomics: the horizontal hold is next to the volume in a location that one does not easily see so when one adjusts the volume one can mess the hold.
Or you can salvage it from old satellite tv receivers or vhs players. There is a four pin modulator, distinguished by channel setting screw on the back of the unit
@@akkudakkupl Composite is not necessarily the same as demodulated RF. While the signal format is the same, the amplitudes may differ by a lot and you may need additional components to adjust a component input signal level to the level that the TV expects, hence why using an RF modulator is way easier and safer.
@@radio4active But if you use a modulator you will have lower quality video. There has to be demodulated luma somewhere in there, otherwise what would the CRT display? You can hook composite to that signal (TV is BW, so you wont have any colour). This should work.
@@akkudakkupl RF modulation will not degrade the quality in any meaningful way. This device has a proper european antenna connector so you're not susceptible to outside interference as much. The only thing that tends to degrade by a miniscule amount is the color information but we don't care about that at all. Directly hooking into the internal composite signal only works if the voltage levels match. The voltage levels for consumer AV signals is usually around 1 volts, and there is absolutely no guarantee that you will find this voltage on the image signal inside of the TV. That signal line was not meant to have anything hooked into it so it might as well by driven to the same 12 Volts that the rest of the device runs with, which will likely fry the analog video chips in whatever device you hook up to it. This is a lot of guesswork to achieve something you can get with a 10$ RF modulator. And at the same time it's an ugly hack because now you need a circuit to disable the RF demodulator of the TV when you attach a composite signal or you will distort the image. Additionally, you don't need to fiddle with the audio signal either when using a modulator. This also leaves the TV in its original condition, which was part of this video.
I don't know about the Soviet stuff but from what I've seen western consumer electronics made after the mid 70s generally have quite reliable capacitors. I have a made in Taiwan Zenith 12 inch B&W built around 1980 or 81 that I get out and use occasionally, all original parts, good clean DC on the B+ rail, all caps run cool, works perfectly.
Brown resistors you are referring to are 0.5Wt resistors. The small green ones 0.125Wt Black powder is graphite. The power resistors were not in heatshrink tube. The proper name for this material is chlorvynilchloride
I had a Rigonda black and white 12V TV with a mains pack that screwed on its back in the seventies, It's HT transformer was dead when i got it. I phoned the soviet trade commission in London which was fun to find where I could get a replacement. They helped and a few days later the part was in London. Then the post office went on strike and it took another 3 weeks for them to deliver it to me. I kept it for years so i could watch TV in the car, can’t remember what happened to it in the end. But just seen one on EBay for £175, so I should have kept it.
DANNY. The brightness of your recent video's is up very bright.. just to let you know... (ill put this on your next video too, so you might have a better chance of seeing it.) ; )
24:55 This input voltage selection was made with power plug, but this is not present at the moment. Originally there was two of them. One for 127 and 220 volt and other for 12 volt.
I have a 401B. The inside looks pretty much identical, including the doubler. Unfortunately mine was never working decently (at least not in the last 20 years) and it died completely about 2 years ago. Picture went dark with a whiff of smoke. HOT shorted. Unfortunately I also managed to rip out the high voltage lead from the flyback, so restoring this TV will be a little challenging.
Well, since there is no analog tv to watch on this tv.. just replace what is broken and leave it as original as you can.. It should be as doggy as the original.. gotta love it!
750VDC is actually a somewhat reasonable rating for an 'across the mains' capacitor, though Philips used 800V or 1000V back in the days. It being a paper capacitor will ensure it explodes sooner or later, though. It did so in a rather controlled way: X2 rated paper capacitors in western european equipment from the same era, tended to smoke and burn (RIFA PME are infamous, but WIMA MP3 will eventually do the same).
It is actually a choke for the single-ended vertical output, with a feedback winding. So technically it is a transformer, but not an output transformer.
I wonder if an old Soviet TV like this could AT ALL be used to connect anything from the late 80's/90's and up (like adding a VCR or Composit to RF adapter to give one the ability to plug a PLaystation 1 with the Composite cables or a RF Adapter)
Why not? Its standard 625/50 B/W TV set. Soviet colour TV sets were mostly Secam only, so you have to add PAL decoder for colour, but B/W sets have no problem.
9:32 There wan an urban legend that you could listen the police on upper VHF on those TVs :). 15:04 Nope, those are mica capacitors. 19:52 This a first time I've ever seen K50-6 capacitor in a heatshrink. There was some later type with them (K50-35) with no manufacturer logo but K50-6... Interesting. 25:52 Isn't that fuse for 12V battery input? 31:10 Yeah, classic, that's the first thing I've thought when in was low on volume. 31:48 Famous electrolytic caps, made in Armenian SSR. If you see an el.capacitor with this factory logo (to the left of K50-6 marking), most likely it will be dead - those were the lowest quality electrolytics, produced in the USSR. Especially, if it has low capacitance value. 34:28 Ha, that was an interesting idea! 37:42 Well, it's germanium power transistor, so in theory in could die by itself, but you need to check if other things are ok.
Hearing police on such a TV could indeed be possible, depending on which frequency they were. Here in Italy for example you could probably hear them in between VHF channels 4 and 4A, if you have a continuous tuning and not a channelized one. But the police uses 25 KHz channel width, and tv audio uses a much wider modulation (75KHz?) so you'd be able to listen in, sure, but with a lot of noise and very low audio.
There are a lot of high voltage PIO caps in the horizontal circuit, including the booster cap, probably that's why it failed. All PIOs that are in deflection circuits must be replaced in these in order to achieve any degree of reliability. And also the B+ filter electrolytic after the filter choke, because the CRT heater voltage is connected to that capacitor, and if it goes open, the voltage goes up and drastically overheats the CRT. You can see the line output B+ filter choke at 18:58, it's the grey axial inductor, which is already burnt, so something was already wrong with the line output circuit. The germanium line output transistor is quite hard to properly substitute in these. BD246A will work for example, but there will be vertical bars on the picture due to high frequency parasitic oscillations in the line output circuit, quite a lot of circuit modifications needed to avoid it, and no matter what you do, the B+ voltage range will be reduced after the mod, you will no longer be able to run it from a 12V battery. The original germanium transistor can usually be find on ebay for a reasonable price. It's also possible that the series pass transistor shorted in the PSU which caused overvoltage, and that's what killed the line output. A crowbar on the PSU output might be a good idea to prevent this.
Will you consider adding composite video and audio connectors in the next episode? Using connectors with an internal switch would keep the analog tuner functionality while also providing easier (and higher quality) compatibility with newer equipment.
@@mrnmrn1 I didn't think about that option. It would be easier to use but on the other hand it will probably require more rewiring because chances are it currently switches IF instead of baseband signals.
@@eDoc2020 But it's a DPDT switch, the other half could be used for swithching video signals. This is a common Isostat switch, he can replace it with a double length, 2x DPDT one, and use the other half to switch audio and video. Or use RCA jacks which has NC contacts in them which opens as you plug and RCA jack in it, and feed the tuner audio and video through those NC contacts. This was a common practice in the cheap 5.5-10" B/W portable TVs which had AV inputs.
@@mrnmrn1 no need for that...switching to uhf will provide a blank raster and no audio so injected signals will appear clean...when you want to use vhf tuner just switch to vhf no problem in leaving the connectors plugged as long as there is no signal being injected....audio can be injected on the volume pot and video on the base of the video amp transistor, usually it drives the crt cathode , just follow the wire from the socket.if it was a coulour set than that would not work like that though
the idea of inserting the new capacitors inside the container of the original is very nice, it perfectly preserves its originality, making it functional in the same.
It doesn't matter if you need to use modern components to repair it, just leave the old component to show what was before the new component.
Very cleaver indeed.
It's like cosplay for capacitors!
Soviet caps are shit
Change them always if you can
@@Gameplayer55055 exactly
memories….. I had this one as a child and modified it, so I can use it as a monitor to an 8bit Apple II Soviet clone.
Did you get zapped modding it?
@@someone8944 Why will he/she get zapped?
@@bhoot1702 The tube acts like a high voltage capacitor holding charge even when powered off. Newer CRT TVs have a discharge resistor that discharge the tube slowly. The TV he modded may not have a discharge resistor in it. He/She may have discharged the tube manually using a screwdriver connected to DAG ground, but he/she also may have not. And he/she may get close to the charged tube trying to remove the circuit board.
@@someone8944 ah 😂 ok
It sure would be nice to get a hold on one of these soviet tv's, just hard to import one to Australia
the lost washer by 19:37 was dropped by you in 18:45, check it
And it fell right where the transistor blew. Coincidence? Let's fgind out in episode 2!!!
"TOP COMMENT"
I used such TV as a monitor for my БК-0010.01 in the early 90s. The picture quality in 512x256 mode was great. I had a real multimedia PC - with a flick of a switch I could switch back the radio channel and watch television. A very nice unit for its time period.
Having worked as a repair tech my entire career on TVs from Japan, South Korea the UK, USA, Australia & even New Zealand i can see that this one follows the same kind of design basics but wow, some of those Soviet parts are really different. That makes this set rare on account they sure are never going to be ever made like this again!!!
which parta(s) in particular? back in the days the only usable ICs were 74 series, everything else were discreet elements. Vacuum tubes were still in use in the 80s.
@@stanimir4197 That oil can capacitor in that TV is not something one would expect to run into in a TV. Vacuum tubes were quite niche in the consumer space by the 1980s. They were only used in what tubes would still be used in today. Certain audio gear for the "tube sound". We were transistorized by the 80s though. CMOS came out in 1968 and were usable. You need to realize that months before this particular TV here rolled out the door the IBM 5150 PC was introduced. Apple had been in business for years too. So the PC era had dawned in the west before that TV was bought.
@@1pcfred Actually, I was lucky enough to have had Apple II. Still, I was wondering which components look so alien - the oil cap is a far point. Germanium transistors (and diodes) still existed in the late 80s and some of the 90s. Oddly enough many of computer designs were copied, and those had CPUs (up to 286 clones) and all the ICs back then, however outside computers most stuff were discreet elements.
@@stanimir4197 when the Soviets copied our chips they even included company logos into their masks. Just in case they played any role in operation. Or maybe they were just too lazy to edit them out? Frankly we don't know why they did it. We just know they did. In communist Russia when you're told to copy something you copy it exactly.
@@stanimir4197 I'll go with no huge "TV Jungle Chip" that did everything & more that was in in TVsets by the 80s & were colour. A complex powersupply involving the LOPTI so there was no lump of iron. It would be neat to see the sides of the VHF/UHF tuners and whether there were any any SMDs for the MOSFETs or is it all standard discrete through -hole. Even the really physically big individual diodes for the bridge when Japanese sets would be using a single package... It looks like the manufactures had had a budget & were forced to make old production parts do the job.
I find it a very good idea to use the old components casings over the new ones, to preserve the original look.
Thanks for your efforts preparing the video !
"The new transformer should be as dodgy as the original, but hopefully not more" I'm crying
24:09 this is not an oil capacitor! This is just the metallized paper capacitor. Letters МБГО mean Металлизированные\Metallized Бумажные\Paper Герметизированные\Sealed Однослойные\One-layered конденсаторы\capacitors.
15:05 those are KSO type silver-mica capacitors in molded plastic case, picofarad range. They have stable parameters in time and very low losses at high frequency
23:47 wax capacitor. So maybe this was the place where the chinese got inspired to fill the dent on modern e-waste recycled capacitors used on new SMPS'?
Wax capacitors have been around for a long time. They were never any good either.
I really enjoy your exploration of Soviet made products. Placing the new capacitors inside the cans of the original capacitors is a great idea. On can get a working device and at the same time keep the internals representing the look of when it was made. It is a valuable piece in terms of comparing the wiring and size and number of components used in 1981 compared to basically one modular set of low profile boards with ICs and surface mount components in the current TVs and display monitors. Thanks for the video and I look forward to the next episode.
IDK why anyone call putting new caps into old ones "cheating". it's common practice in restoration - the important thing is to document any modification that is made. The set will be working reliably and the aspect is preserved: is a win-win situation. In a museal recostruction perspective the important thing is to document the choice so it can be reverted. But a damaged component can't be reverted back: is just damaged, and must be changed. Preserving the aspect in such a way is a good thing. Documenting the process is crucial: pictures, schematics and notes for any future technician that will be servicing it.
Yeah!! New video from Diode!
The thick layer of very fine black dust on CRT is attracted by the high voltage static electricity of the surface of the CRT after years and years of use.
Love your capacitor change out cheat, great to see you save an old USSR artefact Mr Wild
In the 80s I used to harvest all my components from old 60s and 70s TVs .... I love to see inside them again.
Your conversation regarding options for vintage capacitors was spot on .....cheers.
Adoro i vecchi componenti ...non mi capitano mai per le mani elettrodomestico così vecchi
Хорошее слово - юность. С годами его начинаешь ценить.
In case someone is interested, Юность/Yunost is Youth - the period between childhood and adult age.
The variac might have stressed the flyback circuit. The horizontal drive in older sets often relies on a seperate oscillater which must be running when the drive transistor starts conducting. If ramping up the voltage caused the horizontal output to conduct before starting to oscillate, it got stressed and burned out.
yes thats why variacs should not be used on tvs....on valve tvs you can disconnect the top cap of the horizontal output valve....if you dont it will red plate and melt inside in minutes, if the oscillator doesnt start it draws a massive amount of current
I love restorations! Plz do more!
I think the turn on switch is in the brightness knob in order to protect the crt tube from a sudden voltage supply and burning it up
thats not how a crt works...it starts conducting gradually after the filament heats the cathode enough
@@MrHBSoftwareit is so when it’s turned off and the deflection stops it doesnt burn a spot in the phosphor because the deflection stops long before the electron beam
Some of those transistors have the logo of AS ALFA RPAR, a company which still exists in Riga, Latvia. They've made good business in recent years reproducing the old CEM analog synth ICs.
Your camera work and editing is getting bloody good, m8.
Fun fact: the CRT is marked with the State quality mark of the USSR (Государственный знак качества СССР).
Great video! Thank you!
I always put new components inside the old enclosures when restoring vintage electronics. It's not cheating, and even if sold so long as disclosure is made. Nobody should have a problem with it. In fact, when I repaired TVs and radios back in the 1970s, I often did this if the replacement part looked a lot different than the original part. For example a bright plastic package in a unit with lots of dull colored parts or paper wrapped capacitors.
You can use an Arduino (Arduino TV out library) to output basic analog video signal and display some basic geometric shapes, text...(there's a demo useful for testing such analog devices with a simple signal)
he could just use anything around the house....a dvd player, a vcr, a cable tv box, over the air digital tv box whatever...why an arduino?....he can inject composite video on the base of the video amp transistor and audio on the volume pot. then tune into a quiet channel or disable the IF circuitry or the tuner. he can also buy a channel 3 modulator for very cheap and convert composite video and audio to real rf signal
use ms paint to make a test pattern. save it as a picture on usb. insert the usb on dvd player. connect to tv. use a modulator if needed. thats what i did. i did not have to pull out my arduino.
34:37 audiophiles have no reason to be screaming, this is fine and actually can be even better. Now the best would definitely be a polyester capacitor.
True Audiophiles have no understanding of electronics, so they probably would be screaming anyway.
@@Basement-Science you’re correct.., a lot of them don’t. Especially the “ loud ones in the forums and everywhere else.
But that’s not the case with the entire community. Some of them are not only quite reasonable, but geniuses and pioneers of sound research. Sadly they are the quietest, always overshadowed by the screaming idiots.
I am the furthest thing you can get from an audio fool. When clients bring Vintage Guitars to be restored, or I’m building a vintage reproduction Les Paul…
I try not to laugh in their face when they demand old worn out bumblebee capacitor’s because they “sound different“. ⚡️
My other business is component level circuit board repair for a wide range of industrial and government clients. A lot of test equipment repair, and metrology stuff.
I’m not opposed to the ideas of the audiophile Community, but only if there’s precision, repeatable, and peer reviewed results… Taken with professional test equipment, certified with current NIST calibration standards. So many confirmation bias test and results have been seen in the audiophile community for years.
@@Basement-Science Don't you mean Audiofools instead of philes? :-)
@@hullinstruments I'd argue those people that actually approach the subject scientifically shouldn't be called (or call themselves) audiophiles.
Personally I'm not really interested in the subject because 98% of the problems have an extremely easy solution: Headphones. Designing those yourself is pretty hopeless anyway.
I'm not a musician, but if I was, knowing that ALL effects you can achieve with analog electronics can just as well or better be achieved digitally, I dont see the point.
It seems like people not understanding this is the reason why 99% of these 'audiophiles' exist in the first place.
@@Kris_M same thing in my mind ;-P
Dávání nových kondenzátorů do starých pouzder je dobrý nápad. Sám to u přístrojů, u kterých chci zahovat jejich původní stav dělám.
I've seen stuffed capacitors (main filter caps) in modern ATX PSU. I don't know how it's profitable but they did it. They put small capacitors into big ones to make them look better on the board. Saying that, I've also seen PFC inductors with no windings inside. Just some plastic case, metal core and wire going straight in and out of it.
Thank you. I really enjoyed your video and found it fascinating to see the old Soviet components. Really looking forward to seeing the follow up. Cheers from the UK
Stuffing capacitors is common practice in restorations and it is your unit anyway, do what you want. Interresting video. Thanks.
Yea, they were produced to be used. It's not like they are an inanimate object, like paintings or porcelain of some kind. I like your use of the stuffing method too. But if it's making you feel awkward about hiding them, you could always disclose that modification if you decide to sell it on.
@@anthonydenn4345
I havent done a lot of restorations yet, but I did stuff the large electrolytics because they are big, visible and on top of the chassis in most cases. Some electrolytics are under a chassis or hidden away, some are mounted with a bolt wich I just cut out of circuit and mount some new ones.
Each situation, another solution.
To all... dont throw old equipment away, put it on sale. Doesnt matter if it is broke and doesnt work.
I love vintage products thanks for reviewing. If u have more please keep review..
Brightness/power switch. The TV doesn't have a spot killer on power off. If you turn the brightness down to turn it off you automatically become the spot killer. On a TV without a spot killer or a broken circuit the CRT filament will stay warm for some time after you turn it off. The raster fails because of power off so the still hot filament and residual HV will cause a bright static spot to show on the screen for some time. Do this enough times and you can get burn in.
You're right ;) this solves the spot...
Nice tutorial sir.. Watching here again sending full support.. Thank you for sharing
Thing from my childhood. In these days usual fix was a quick whack on top or aside which nudged some cold solderings in place. Helped for older tube based TVs too. Didn't helped for dried capacitors though. Also these TVs came with circuit diagrams. Wish new electronics would have circuit diagrams at least in download.
Interesting to see such old things. 🥰 I think something like that is valuable because it is from the 80s, a very old TV over 40 years old. 😮
We had similar BW TV, in late 1980. Once the channel changing knob broke off and channel was fixed where there was no signal. For 3 months, we were forced to watch the static B/W dots on screen.
Hi, you should replace all the PIO capacitors in the horizontal output. 99% their leakiness caused the line output transistor to fail. This is a germanium line output transistor which is very difficult to substitute with a silicon one. But you can still get the original from ebay. It will work with silicon transistors but there will be vertical bars on the picture due to high frequency parasitic oscillations in the horizontal circuit. There are some tricks to avoid it, but this includes rewinding the horizontal driver transformer.
i dont see any PIO on this one...if the width capacitor is leaky it will stress the flyback and output transistor....on valve sets its called the boost capacitor...very common failure
@@MrHBSoftware All the axial aluminium canned caps in it are paper caps (PIO/wax). Including the width caps.
@@mrnmrn1 i am not familiar with soviet stuff and surely i missed it but i only saw orange fim caps and radial electrolytic caps and some rectangular brown ones that look like old mica caps
@@MrHBSoftware :) Watch his new video, I was right, they were indeed bad.
@@mrnmrn1 you wre right there are paper in oil caps there....i never said you werent right :)..but they were not leaky to the poit of causing an instant H.O.T short...problem will be something else
You have an very beautiful handwriting!:))
34:43 maybe this capacitor was actually replaced later by this even older one that someone had in their workshop?
That's what I was thinking. That TV has seen some service in the past.
your english just made my day
😂
To secure those re-stuffed capacitors, just fill them with melted wax, dodgy yes, but it's fitting for the era... :P
Wow, the way this TV was constructed, it must have been terribly expensive to produce.
Well in communist USSR the state owned factory that made this TV didn't have to make a profit. Also compared to western TVs from around 1981, this TV looks like it could have been from the 1960s, especially given it's mostly germanium transistors, and a lot of metalwork.
@@michaelturner4457 In the 60's western TV sets had vacuum tubes. Transistors came later. This soviet TV set is very good quality. Just look at the cable lacing. Also the 12V supply feature was very rare in western TV sets. This TV could run from a car battery and can charge it too.
@@andreasproteus1465 Actually solid state TVs started appearing in the mid to late 1960s, and by early 70s many TVs were completely solid state, especially from Japanese manufacturers.
This TV was apparently made in 1981, based on component dates, yet it uses mostly GERMANIUM transistors, NOT SILICON, which is definitely1960s, even 50s technology.
@@andreasproteus1465 Actually a 12V supply that could also run on a vehicle battery was very common in monochrome western portables, even in the late 60s.
@@andreasproteus1465
There certainly were transistorized B/W portables with no tubes but the CRT and HV rectifiers by the late 60s.
Price molded into plastic case - that is crazy and I love it! Imagine buying the unit 20yrs later at the same price.
I guess the old CCCP didnt use the concept of "On Special!" or "Half Price!" that everything seems to be today.
Prices staying the same for 20-30 years was the norm. They wanted prices always the same, and then slowly increase the wages everyone is paid as the country becomes more productive. The idea is always to match the demand to the supply... unfortunately, the wage increases came too fast, so eventually, everyone could afford anything they wanted, but had a hard time finding it.
The stamped in price was especially to make sure that no shitty shopkeeper in a distant area didn't overprice his goods and rip people off. A good idea.
Excellent video as always
Very good quality tv 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Nice ergonomics: the horizontal hold is next to the volume in a location that one does not easily see so when one adjusts the volume one can mess the hold.
Thank you I enjoy your videos very much.
4:50 yes it says type of wire and diameter. ПЭВ (-1 or -2) is copper wire covered by high durable enamel (1 or 2 layers).
Greatings from Bulgaria.
To get an image out of the device, you can buy an "RF modulator". They're still being sold and not too expensive.
Or you can salvage it from old satellite tv receivers or vhs players. There is a four pin modulator, distinguished by channel setting screw on the back of the unit
Or just find the place where he has demodulated composite and just jack in there.
@@akkudakkupl Composite is not necessarily the same as demodulated RF. While the signal format is the same, the amplitudes may differ by a lot and you may need additional components to adjust a component input signal level to the level that the TV expects, hence why using an RF modulator is way easier and safer.
@@radio4active But if you use a modulator you will have lower quality video. There has to be demodulated luma somewhere in there, otherwise what would the CRT display? You can hook composite to that signal (TV is BW, so you wont have any colour). This should work.
@@akkudakkupl RF modulation will not degrade the quality in any meaningful way. This device has a proper european antenna connector so you're not susceptible to outside interference as much. The only thing that tends to degrade by a miniscule amount is the color information but we don't care about that at all. Directly hooking into the internal composite signal only works if the voltage levels match. The voltage levels for consumer AV signals is usually around 1 volts, and there is absolutely no guarantee that you will find this voltage on the image signal inside of the TV. That signal line was not meant to have anything hooked into it so it might as well by driven to the same 12 Volts that the rest of the device runs with, which will likely fry the analog video chips in whatever device you hook up to it. This is a lot of guesswork to achieve something you can get with a 10$ RF modulator. And at the same time it's an ugly hack because now you need a circuit to disable the RF demodulator of the TV when you attach a composite signal or you will distort the image. Additionally, you don't need to fiddle with the audio signal either when using a modulator. This also leaves the TV in its original condition, which was part of this video.
I don't know about the Soviet stuff but from what I've seen western consumer electronics made after the mid 70s generally have quite reliable capacitors. I have a made in Taiwan Zenith 12 inch B&W built around 1980 or 81 that I get out and use occasionally, all original parts, good clean DC on the B+ rail, all caps run cool, works perfectly.
Great video. TV internals look similar to US/UK Home Radios from the 50s/60s!
Brown resistors you are referring to are 0.5Wt resistors. The small green ones 0.125Wt Black powder is graphite. The power resistors were not in heatshrink tube. The proper name for this material is chlorvynilchloride
I had a Rigonda black and white 12V TV with a mains pack that screwed on its back in the seventies, It's HT transformer was dead when i got it. I phoned the soviet trade commission in London which was fun to find where I could get a replacement. They helped and a few days later the part was in London. Then the post office went on strike and it took another 3 weeks for them to deliver it to me.
I kept it for years so i could watch TV in the car, can’t remember what happened to it in the end.
But just seen one on EBay for £175, so I should have kept it.
The Awesome Diodesgonewild....
Bloody hell, of course it still turns on despite its age. My grandparents new TV failed after just 5 years. ;)
👍👍👍wow that"s really something...
Mr. Carleson also replaces caps in cans in old radios.
WD 40 or other penetrating fluids cleans the potentiometer very well. It also cleans electronics switch very well.
Not wd40 , better to use deoxit.
Not recommended because in rare cases it can soften some plastics like some PCB phenolic compositions.
@@westelaudio943 I think you are right. I will keep that in mind.
@@KuntalGhosh ok I will get one for electronics.
Love the Soviet transistors. They all have this crimp border the big ones and even the smallest like in the kosmos radio.
Oh cool a TV repair! That’s nice :D
DANNY. The brightness of your recent video's is up very bright.. just to let you know... (ill put this on your next video too, so you might have a better chance of seeing it.) ; )
Well.... the videos seem dim on both of my computers, so I just turned the gamma up to about 1.3
24:55 This input voltage selection was made with power plug, but this is not present at the moment. Originally there was two of them. One for 127 and 220 volt and other for 12 volt.
Also there is no need to write down diagrams for russian devices. They are available for almost all devices by little search.
Great respect for you 😇😇
Another way to preserve original look is to get surplus parts in bulk and change them out
I have a 401B. The inside looks pretty much identical, including the doubler. Unfortunately mine was never working decently (at least not in the last 20 years) and it died completely about 2 years ago. Picture went dark with a whiff of smoke. HOT shorted. Unfortunately I also managed to rip out the high voltage lead from the flyback, so restoring this TV will be a little challenging.
I predict this will be a good one, let's watch
Well, since there is no analog tv to watch on this tv.. just replace what is broken and leave it as original as you can.. It should be as doggy as the original.. gotta love it!
750VDC is actually a somewhat reasonable rating for an 'across the mains' capacitor, though Philips used 800V or 1000V back in the days. It being a paper capacitor will ensure it explodes sooner or later, though. It did so in a rather controlled way: X2 rated paper capacitors in western european equipment from the same era, tended to smoke and burn (RIFA PME are infamous, but WIMA MP3 will eventually do the same).
я бы даже не мерил ёмкости, сразу на замену все серии мбм и к50,16
Nice!
I'm waiting :) I love your videos :))))
OK HAVE SEE THIS BEFORE THE NEXT VIDEO. SO LETS GET TO SEE THIS "MULTIPLIER"
I use Юность 402b with Commodore 64 ;)
NICE!
The brand Юность means Youth.
This tvset has 12V terminal not to charge battery but to be used as a 12V car-tvset.
But it can also charge the battery connected to the same terminal, if you set it by the TV/Charge switch.
@@xsc1000 obvs
came too soon, only 360p available, lets wait a couple more hours
Nice video if you have a place you can let the old capacitor and solder the new one on pcb solder side
1:49 I thought it was my facebook, even though I've disabled its sounds.
@19:39 - I think there are actually 2 lost washers in it. One under the capacitor can flat.
I want to compliment you on preserving the internal rediculious logic of the post in the face of the fact the TV is just junk
The second transformer on the power supply chassis is the vertical output transformer, i think
Jo, je to tak.
It is actually a choke for the single-ended vertical output, with a feedback winding. So technically it is a transformer, but not an output transformer.
"Audiophiles are screaming ..." let them!! 😂
nice dog and nice tv
@14:39 - I have heard of soldering components with legs up as "dead bug" style soldering.
Sir can u build a zvs based soldering iron 😅
Спасибо.
Český rádio nice
Interesting!
Ok,I've been subbed for a long time now...I gotta ask..
Where the hell are you from sir?
Mr Carlson's Lab always tries to put new parts in the original old one's to preserve the look.
I wonder if an old Soviet TV like this could AT ALL be used to connect anything from the late 80's/90's and up (like adding a VCR or Composit to RF adapter to give one the ability to plug a PLaystation 1 with the Composite cables or a RF Adapter)
Why not? Its standard 625/50 B/W TV set. Soviet colour TV sets were mostly Secam only, so you have to add PAL decoder for colour, but B/W sets have no problem.
Ностальгия)))
28:10 You should have said "I don't want it safe, I want it soviet."
9:32 There wan an urban legend that you could listen the police on upper VHF on those TVs :).
15:04 Nope, those are mica capacitors.
19:52 This a first time I've ever seen K50-6 capacitor in a heatshrink. There was some later type with them (K50-35) with no manufacturer logo but K50-6... Interesting.
25:52 Isn't that fuse for 12V battery input?
31:10 Yeah, classic, that's the first thing I've thought when in was low on volume.
31:48 Famous electrolytic caps, made in Armenian SSR. If you see an el.capacitor with this factory logo (to the left of K50-6 marking), most likely it will be dead - those were the lowest quality electrolytics, produced in the USSR. Especially, if it has low capacitance value.
34:28 Ha, that was an interesting idea!
37:42 Well, it's germanium power transistor, so in theory in could die by itself, but you need to check if other things are ok.
Hearing police on such a TV could indeed be possible, depending on which frequency they were. Here in Italy for example you could probably hear them in between VHF channels 4 and 4A, if you have a continuous tuning and not a channelized one. But the police uses 25 KHz channel width, and tv audio uses a much wider modulation (75KHz?) so you'd be able to listen in, sure, but with a lot of noise and very low audio.
There are a lot of high voltage PIO caps in the horizontal circuit, including the booster cap, probably that's why it failed. All PIOs that are in deflection circuits must be replaced in these in order to achieve any degree of reliability. And also the B+ filter electrolytic after the filter choke, because the CRT heater voltage is connected to that capacitor, and if it goes open, the voltage goes up and drastically overheats the CRT. You can see the line output B+ filter choke at 18:58, it's the grey axial inductor, which is already burnt, so something was already wrong with the line output circuit.
The germanium line output transistor is quite hard to properly substitute in these. BD246A will work for example, but there will be vertical bars on the picture due to high frequency parasitic oscillations in the line output circuit, quite a lot of circuit modifications needed to avoid it, and no matter what you do, the B+ voltage range will be reduced after the mod, you will no longer be able to run it from a 12V battery. The original germanium transistor can usually be find on ebay for a reasonable price. It's also possible that the series pass transistor shorted in the PSU which caused overvoltage, and that's what killed the line output. A crowbar on the PSU output might be a good idea to prevent this.
Yeah, AFAIK old police two-way radios in USSR were around 160 MHz analog FM. Analog TV sound channel is also analog FM.
Will you consider adding composite video and audio connectors in the next episode? Using connectors with an internal switch would keep the analog tuner functionality while also providing easier (and higher quality) compatibility with newer equipment.
Use the VHF/UHF switch for that. There's no UHF tuner in it, so the UHF position would be perfect for AV input.
@@mrnmrn1 I didn't think about that option. It would be easier to use but on the other hand it will probably require more rewiring because chances are it currently switches IF instead of baseband signals.
@@eDoc2020 But it's a DPDT switch, the other half could be used for swithching video signals. This is a common Isostat switch, he can replace it with a double length, 2x DPDT one, and use the other half to switch audio and video.
Or use RCA jacks which has NC contacts in them which opens as you plug and RCA jack in it, and feed the tuner audio and video through those NC contacts. This was a common practice in the cheap 5.5-10" B/W portable TVs which had AV inputs.
@@mrnmrn1 no need for that...switching to uhf will provide a blank raster and no audio so injected signals will appear clean...when you want to use vhf tuner just switch to vhf no problem in leaving the connectors plugged as long as there is no signal being injected....audio can be injected on the volume pot and video on the base of the video amp transistor, usually it drives the crt cathode , just follow the wire from the socket.if it was a coulour set than that would not work like that though