What exactly do you mean by that? A pair of SA-12s with decent power is nothing to be trifled with, and the excursion I used to get out of a rebuilt SA-8 V1 always impressed me more than I ever saw from a Type R. Not to say that they're bad woofers or that I would turn my nose up if someone offered me one or two for a good price.
Tornado This is inside the very small area under the hatch of a dodge stealth. There was no room for a ported enclosure. And I was also going for SQ over SPL so sealed was the way to go anyway.
this is a 94 dodge stealth it is very small inside and i found with the subs directly under the hatch it sounded the best. the sound waves travel further and bounce off of each other more and that is what you want.
you should look at getting a better amp to really push them to their potential, im not trying to bash your setup but that power acoustik amp does not do the power it states. With an amp that pushes a true 2000rms you'd be able to tell the difference instantly. I can help you out with amps if you're looking to really push your system.
No offense taken, I know what I've got is middle class and I know it's not putting out what it says it is. When I'm ready, I'll put in another amp. This has been a learning experience for me and I'm thinking about making a career out of this stuff. It was fun, a little frustrating. But fun. But yeah, any pointers you can give me, fire away. I still don't understand RMS. And what exactly is the big 3?
randomness72838 RMS is the real power the amp is going to put out, so when a sub says it takes 500rms, you want to look for an amp that will put out the 500rms and usually a little more is fine because your most likely going to drop a little in voltage and your amp wont always push the 500rms. A lot of lower end brands will put a MAX wattage rating on their subs and amps, this means nothing. you want to look for the rms ratings, those are the real ratings you look for. For example, an amp that says 2000watts max might only push 1000rms. and thats if youre lucky. Some dont even do 10% of what the max says. (example: planet audio ac3000.1d only does 300 watts rms. pretty sad. so you have to watch what brands you buy. Some better brands do put the max watts on their amps, example RE audio, good brand and will do the rms ratings it says. you just have to look for what it says for the rms and not max. The big 3 is just upgrading your cars factory wiring under the hood. You dont have to replace the factory wire, you can just add the new wire in. You run larger wire usually 1/0 gauge, 4gauge for smaller systems is fine and will help, from the alternator to the battery, then from the battery negative to the engine ground, and then from the batteries negative again to a solid ground point on the frame.
randomness72838 Also, my amp was an Arc Audio KS1200.1, best amp ive owned so far. good clean power. not the most power but one of the best brands for sound quality. my 1200 rms amp was just over 600$
There really isnt room inside this car to make a ported enclosure, so the sealed one fit just right and was surprisingly loud. And it was nice being able to full tilt any song and not have to worry about blowing them or playing out of tuning
at the time i paid 180 for each Type R, the arc audio amp was i think 650 or close to that, the kicker 4 channel i got a decent deal on i think it was only like 120, the small XS battery was 80, my Excelon head unit was 300, the speakers were 100 per pair, the battery under the hood was 340, the high output alternator was 280, and then add the price of the 1/0 and 4 gauge wire and RCA's, so like another 200. So in total about $2,350 without accounting for tax.
No sir, not even close, jammed these for a year like this all the time. Can't blow a sub if you don't over power it or send it a clipped or distorted signal.
I've tried sundown, didn't care for the SA12, and that would be the equivalent to the type R in price and RMS. The sound quality is a lot better on the alpine. I wasn't going for loud, i went for SQ. and i was happy. I've done loud and if i had to choose i would keep this setup if i could go back.
![สาวเมืองเพชร - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kEt7F9PvO3I/mqdefault.jpg)
Holy crap that is a really nice Dodge stealth!!!!!!!
Thanks much
holy sh!t this is much louder than a normal sundown audio building i think
What exactly do you mean by that? A pair of SA-12s with decent power is nothing to be trifled with, and the excursion I used to get out of a rebuilt SA-8 V1 always impressed me more than I ever saw from a Type R. Not to say that they're bad woofers or that I would turn my nose up if someone offered me one or two for a good price.
Can't go wrong with Alpine, they will breathe and perform better in a ported box. Nice set-up either way.
Tornado This is inside the very small area under the hatch of a dodge stealth. There was no room for a ported enclosure. And I was also going for SQ over SPL so sealed was the way to go anyway.
I know it is an old video. but with sealed enclosures, subs facing the cabin will sound even better, try it first and then comment.
this is a 94 dodge stealth it is very small inside and i found with the subs directly under the hatch it sounded the best. the sound waves travel further and bounce off of each other more and that is what you want.
Keep the good bass up...
Me and you have quite the similar set up! Except I've got mine wired to a 4000w power acoustik amp and they're 1000w rms.
you should look at getting a better amp to really push them to their potential, im not trying to bash your setup but that power acoustik amp does not do the power it states. With an amp that pushes a true 2000rms you'd be able to tell the difference instantly. I can help you out with amps if you're looking to really push your system.
No offense taken, I know what I've got is middle class and I know it's not putting out what it says it is. When I'm ready, I'll put in another amp. This has been a learning experience for me and I'm thinking about making a career out of this stuff. It was fun, a little frustrating. But fun. But yeah, any pointers you can give me, fire away. I still don't understand RMS. And what exactly is the big 3?
randomness72838 RMS is the real power the amp is going to put out, so when a sub says it takes 500rms, you want to look for an amp that will put out the 500rms and usually a little more is fine because your most likely going to drop a little in voltage and your amp wont always push the 500rms. A lot of lower end brands will put a MAX wattage rating on their subs and amps, this means nothing. you want to look for the rms ratings, those are the real ratings you look for. For example, an amp that says 2000watts max might only push 1000rms. and thats if youre lucky. Some dont even do 10% of what the max says. (example: planet audio ac3000.1d only does 300 watts rms. pretty sad. so you have to watch what brands you buy. Some better brands do put the max watts on their amps, example RE audio, good brand and will do the rms ratings it says. you just have to look for what it says for the rms and not max.
The big 3 is just upgrading your cars factory wiring under the hood. You dont have to replace the factory wire, you can just add the new wire in. You run larger wire usually 1/0 gauge, 4gauge for smaller systems is fine and will help, from the alternator to the battery, then from the battery negative to the engine ground, and then from the batteries negative again to a solid ground point on the frame.
randomness72838 Also, my amp was an Arc Audio KS1200.1, best amp ive owned so far. good clean power. not the most power but one of the best brands for sound quality. my 1200 rms amp was just over 600$
+I1S1337 I appreciate your input brother. I'll keep an eye on that next time!
You dont really need 0 guage on the amp you just need it from you alternater to you battery
I had 0 gauge ran under the hood along with a high output 230 amp alternator, and the amp was only running 4 gauge. It's all in the description.
Nice setup. I prefer ported enclosure though. Louder lows. ;)
There really isnt room inside this car to make a ported enclosure, so the sealed one fit just right and was surprisingly loud. And it was nice being able to full tilt any song and not have to worry about blowing them or playing out of tuning
Louder but less accurate.
nice video bro
Thank you much
Jams extra hard for a sealed box
+Dillon Brown Heck yea it did! i think most people would have been surprised!
How many watts are those subs?
LOV2XLR8 1000 RMS
Those are rated at 1k rms each. Double up that power and watch em go!
i had originally planned on getting another one of the arc amps. but i ended up going bigger and getting some new equipment
They rated 750 rms each. Type xs are 1k
😱 has come
How much did this all cost?
at the time i paid 180 for each Type R, the arc audio amp was i think 650 or close to that, the kicker 4 channel i got a decent deal on i think it was only like 120, the small XS battery was 80, my Excelon head unit was 300, the speakers were 100 per pair, the battery under the hood was 340, the high output alternator was 280, and then add the price of the 1/0 and 4 gauge wire and RCA's, so like another 200. So in total about $2,350 without accounting for tax.
What's your setup?
Its all in the Description
how is that song called?
the song is called Woofer Cooker
I1S1337 thank you
what's this recorded with?
i believe it was my galaxy s3
I'm surprised it picks up the bass
I1S1337 hello there fellow TH-camr very nice quality upload
legend mode Samsung Galaxy S3
I1S1337 igt
My dad has the same subwoofer
Your I meant
Just blew some shitty speakers to this song haha
+insta kill right on, lol
nice stealth not riced, please port ur sub
The area under the hatch is barely big enough for a sealed enclosure let alone a ported one, otherwise I would have had a vented box.
@@I1S1337 i see
my car is better but (2013 shelby super snake with lowering kit) i have 2 18 inch woffers of 1500 dollars but mine dosent shake that much
God's Clan 18 inch subs don’t need to move much to make bass because of more air flow. But 18 are also clearer and hit harder.
Bye bye sub
No sir, not even close, jammed these for a year like this all the time. Can't blow a sub if you don't over power it or send it a clipped or distorted signal.
yup these can take a beating i bean slamming mine for about 3 years but not this hard. hes near maxing these boys out.
There good but sundown audio is the way to go
I've tried sundown, didn't care for the SA12, and that would be the equivalent to the type R in price and RMS. The sound quality is a lot better on the alpine. I wasn't going for loud, i went for SQ. and i was happy. I've done loud and if i had to choose i would keep this setup if i could go back.