You are not tightening down the bolt to the required torque yet complain why this issue continues to happen?? The torque to yield bolt really only starts to work at it's specified torque. This issue will continue to happen I am afraid. As TTY bolts are tightened to spec they start to stretch which provides the required and very necessary clamping load. Borrow, rent or steal a torque wrench that does the job.
BIGBOOST states exactly why he didn't tighten it properly he didn't have the appropriate torque wrench. What happens when you don't torque your head down to the torque specs? (Head bolts are also torque to yield bolts). You would lift your head or blow a gasket. This is because they need higher clamping load than a regular fastener can provide. And don't get me wrong, I am not hating on him here. I love Alberto's vids, But it's painful to watch the same video when you know exactly why it keeps failing.
Pablo Iglesias they key shouldn't break if the crank bolt is tightened properly. It's a rotating part designed to be held in with friction, by means of an extremely high tensile torque to yield bolt. The only reason the key or keyway becomes damaged is if the pulley tries to turn independently of the crank, literally cracking it in half as seen. Now in theory this could happen due to high engine torque levels, but not at Albertos power figure. And the logical aproach would be to first: actually tighten the crank bolt to spec, and secondly: if it fails again, drill an additional or additional key. If these assemblies transferred torque via the keyways, they would use a much more extensive spline design. But as it stands, the key and keyway is a locating device, not a torque transfer device
Mad Panda Garage in addition, lack of the other tool to properly do this; a crank hub holder. Using the driveline is not an appropriate method to achieve proper torque. 4ft steel stock, drill two holes (only two are needed minimum) and grind away to clearance for fitting over the hub. You can DIY build the crank hub holder in an hour. It’s very frustrating watching your “DIY” videos done wrong. The guys who know how to do it right get mocked when they comment.
It won't hold until you tighten the bolt correctly, the tension in the bolt create the friction needed for the pulley to hold the torque ( this key pin is more a locating)
Come on someone in Florida let Albert use their garage. Man if you lived is SD I'd let you use my garage anytime. I love the e36 brother looks amazing!
Just a recommendation Alberto but put a master power cut off switch for all in cab and just run a power lead to the Radio to keep stations and all etc. i did that on my old Volvo that was having the same issues i couldn't for the life of trace the drain but after i did that the problem was good to go also adds a bit of deterrent to so called thieves. Either way hope you figure it out
You need to mate the pulley to the shaft. Put it on with some low grit valve mating paste and turn left to right from the key position. Then remove, clean and assemble to specified torque with new bolt and key. It’s an old trick we use on powerful modified two strokes when the key keeps braking on the magnetic wheel ;) .
Just an idea which i could be wrong about but i had a strange problem before with the altinator pully on a german car. There is a dampner in the actual pully which siezes and makes serpentene belt skip and power steering squeal. Could cause woodruff key to break maybe. Anyway keep up the great videos.
I don't think that is your throw-out bearing making that noise. If you still have the stock transmission fluid with a lightened flywheel it will make that noise. You may need to change to the 1 bottle of 75w140ns gear oil and 1 bottle of redline atf fluid mix that UUC recommends to get rid of that noise.
Nice to see the car back to life. Amps are a common cause of power drains some times the signal wire from the stereo causes the amp to think it should still be working also did your car have comfort locking as that can cause a power drain as the car won't sleep.
Formula 1Fan fit a dual battery isolator and run everything through that, or can just run all your nonessentials through that. More professional alternative is to set up a hub and run source powering to it through a single super heavy duty relay switched from ignition barrel to bypass constant drains.
Your PROBLEM is your torque wrench.....being close to 80ft/lbs off of spec with the performance of your car is no bueno..... this is why it keeps coming loose . Anyways get a torque wrench meant for heavy duty diesel application from a big rig tools/tractors supply company near you and torque that bolt down to 300!
I just had the same problem on my LS swap. Bolt and pulley came out and its a big pita to get to. At least there's no key, but if I decided to boost I'll have to make one for it to prevent slippage.
you better check the condition of the Keyway on the crankshaft & crank pulley or else you'll be spinning a top in mud as they say ...every 2 weeks, you'll be back in there fixing it. Good luck Big Boost!
What's your plan for the coolant reservoir? What are you looking to upgrade to? Engine bay looks too clean to have that staring back at you as soon as you pop the hood!
Hey Alberto, why don't you buy or rent a flywheel locking tool to properly torque that bolt. On the far end of your torque wrench it won't be perfectly 250 so you can try to torque to that and then use a breaker bar for the rest, at least it'll be close... some red thread locker and see how that does. Also, do you think the amount of movement in the crankshaft is causing the woodruff key to move enough to shear? Maybe you need to add some material to the key via welding and grind it flat until it fits perfectly in there. Just a few ideas...
There’s one remote power wire that goes from the amp to the deck, if it got unplugged or the connection is bad it will keep power to it all the time, it’s a small draw so it would probably take a few days too
Hey big boost when I did my m50b30 I put a punch into the flywheel locking spot in the block and used a 3/4 breaker bar and had the car in gear with the handbrake on and just did it up until I couldn't go any tighter and In that time you have broken 2 keys (I think) I would suggest that if you can't get access to a 3/4 torque wrench or possibly see if you can get in contact with Chelsea denofa and see what he ran on his m50 FD car
How tight does the woodroof key fit in the crank and the pulley? It looks like there is some amount of wear on the crank and the pulley by where the key goes. If there is any play/clearance/wear it will cause the pulley to slip on the crank causing you to keep breaking woodroof keys. If what im suggesting is the problem a machine shop can fix it as well as adding another slot for another key in the crank and pulley.
You should get the crank machined to use two or three woodruff keys. It would be a pita to do obviously but it would hold a lot more stress instead of shearing the keys
Okay I am watching this at 1:30AM and when I heard the door bell in your video I jumped SO hard! Freaked me out so badly, I paused the video mid ring and noticed it was the video...that really scared me. XD
hey a friend just had the same issue, but symptoms before the key smoothed down was vibrations at idle, i would tighten that crank bolt more if i were you before this issue happens again
Bug the LZ a little more he'll help out a man in need, and whatever you do don't swap that engine out damn it's nice, sounds fantastic and had a lot of labor of love in it
Go to Harbor Freight and get the 3/4" torque wrench, it is cheap and will get that bolt tighten to the correct torque spec. If you don't you are asking for this to repeat all over again.
The reason guys with LS motors do that is because some of those engines don't come with a keyway for the crank pulley. When their making a lot of power the pulley tends to either break or come lose because of it.Does nobody know this or am I missing something here because everyone mentions this in every post.
As everyone has stated. The reason this keep happening is because your not getting the bolt to the required torque. Go get the correct torque wrench and tighten it down. This will happen again and again. I’ve seen 1000whp s50’s no brake like this. Tighten the bolt down correctly and you’ll never have this problem again
It almost seems as the bolt bottoms out and not putting pressure on the pulley. So only the woodruff key is holding the pulley, not pressure from the bolt.
Single mass flywheels always chatter (most cases) because dual mass takes out the vibrations, nothing to worry about, can be annoying, some are louder than others
Question! cant you remove the crankshaft send it to a machine shop where they would mill the keylet hole to a deeper rectagular one then u would use a rectagular deeper keylet with more surface area of contact that would be more resistent and if would fit the same and maby never have that problem again ? i know its stupid for the amount of work it gives but take it into consideration if u ever need to overhaule the engine again !
Helder Alves the problem isn't the keyway itself, it's the fact that he's not torqueing the bolt to spec. It's a torque to yield bolt, which means it stretches as it reaches correct torque and that gives it it's clamping power. If it's not actually torqued to spec, it's basically just barely holding the pulley on until it eventually it vibrates loose and shatters the key again
And just go to a shop and have them tighten the bolt to spec real quick if you don't have the tool for it. Shouldn't cost too much to tighten one bolt.
Rather than trying to find the source of the drain it might be way easier to just get a master kill switch. I installed one in my E36 because whenever I'd find of what was draining my battery and fix it something else would come up and start causing the same problem. That said if the battery isn't connected to anything it can't drain. Easy fix.
If the tapers don’t fit each other perfectly it will continue to break the woodruff key off as it will be relying on the woodruff key holding the pulley and not the taper
look into getting a NEW crank pulley, the rubber on yours's looks cracked and worn. This will affect the dampening of the harmonic balancer, maybe part of the problem.
Are you using the same keyway tabs each time? If I were you, I'd order a new one from somewhere that uses much stronger material. If you keep using the same part made out of the same material, the best predictor of the future is the past - it's just going to keep breaking. How many times have you replaced it now? Save yourself some time. If you can't order a new, stronger keyway tab off-the-shelf, go to a metal shop with one of those replacements and have them make you one out of much stronger material, using yours to reference for dimensions, etc. Problem solved permanently. And I think it was a great idea to replace your crank bolt; I'll bet it's a torque-to-yield bolt, which are never meant to be re-used. Just my 0.02. Great vid, mayne!
Alberto Please show the Electrical troubleshooting with the Battery for next video - because I have the same problem, in my car, I have to hook it up to the charger or it doesnt last more than 3 days. or 2 if the temp drops
Buy a manual battery isolator switch, (most common is a big heavy duty dial switch, or may have oversized red key in it) Fit inline in some heavy (8 gauge etc) wiring, connect all wires connecting to positive terminal on your battery currently to one end, and connect other end to the positive terminal on the battery. You can mount the switch under bonnet, or for easier access, hook one end to all wiring on + terminal, loop the wiring through the firewall (so the switch can be mounted inside the vehicle) run other end back through firewall into engine bay and hook onto battery. Turn switch off when not using car. Will prevent any electrical drains on battery.
mrlithium or...can use heavy wire same as manual switch method. But instead of the manual switch, use a relay triggered by toggle switch on dash, or ignition barrel. (Note: toggle switch or ignition barrel must be powered directly if using to trigger relay.) This way will still have a standby current draw on the battery, but it will be very very minimal
alberto u gotta change whatever's breaking the key cuz just doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result isn't going to change anything good luck
Crank bolt continues to break yet you STILL dont fix it properly. Go and borrow a torque wrench that goes to the required amount and actually fix the problem.
Hey bro well done for getting it back up and running. Speaking of rain and water, what is it with you TH-camrs so reluctant to use antifreeze/coolant? I just don't get it.
Plus, it’s a pressurised system, so you just use a higher load radiator cap and that’s it Generally you aim to have the system well bled and eficient enough to not be boiling, obviously
put some GREEN locktide on the key , that will keep it from vribrate ! thats why she always broke! thats happend all the time on high speed application at my job
You are not tightening down the bolt to the required torque yet complain why this issue continues to happen?? The torque to yield bolt really only starts to work at it's specified torque. This issue will continue to happen I am afraid. As TTY bolts are tightened to spec they start to stretch which provides the required and very necessary clamping load. Borrow, rent or steal a torque wrench that does the job.
Exactly man
BIGBOOST states exactly why he didn't tighten it properly he didn't have the appropriate torque wrench.
What happens when you don't torque your head down to the torque specs? (Head bolts are also torque to yield bolts). You would lift your head or blow a gasket. This is because they need higher clamping load than a regular fastener can provide.
And don't get me wrong, I am not hating on him here. I love Alberto's vids, But it's painful to watch the same video when you know exactly why it keeps failing.
Mr.Knowitall here
Pablo Iglesias they key shouldn't break if the crank bolt is tightened properly. It's a rotating part designed to be held in with friction, by means of an extremely high tensile torque to yield bolt. The only reason the key or keyway becomes damaged is if the pulley tries to turn independently of the crank, literally cracking it in half as seen. Now in theory this could happen due to high engine torque levels, but not at Albertos power figure. And the logical aproach would be to first: actually tighten the crank bolt to spec, and secondly: if it fails again, drill an additional or additional key. If these assemblies transferred torque via the keyways, they would use a much more extensive spline design. But as it stands, the key and keyway is a locating device, not a torque transfer device
Mad Panda Garage in addition, lack of the other tool to properly do this; a crank hub holder. Using the driveline is not an appropriate method to achieve proper torque.
4ft steel stock, drill two holes (only two are needed minimum) and grind away to clearance for fitting over the hub. You can DIY build the crank hub holder in an hour.
It’s very frustrating watching your “DIY” videos done wrong. The guys who know how to do it right get mocked when they comment.
Alberto : "No street drifting play it safe!"
Also Alberto : look a U-turn *pull the hand brake and kick the clutch*
It won't hold until you tighten the bolt correctly, the tension in the bolt create the friction needed for the pulley to hold the torque ( this key pin is more a locating)
Come on someone in Florida let Albert use their garage. Man if you lived is SD I'd let you use my garage anytime. I love the e36 brother looks amazing!
I live pretty close to them, always see there cars. Always welcome to my garage got a toolbox of like every single tool you'd need.
Whats with the puddle in the back of your car
I was thinking the same thing! What's up with that!
rain water gets in
Alberto BIGBOOST you need to address the source dude. One your electrics and two rust/corrosion.
Probably getting in through the sunroof somewhere, though with the wrap on, i don't know how
you should get a smoke machine and just fill the car with smoke it will come out somewhere and that will be the point where it's leaking
You should get the water out of your car man, its not good for the body or the electronics especially when your amplifier is right there
MrZaoC shh or hell never learn.
Just a recommendation Alberto but put a master power cut off switch for all in cab and just run a power lead to the Radio to keep stations and all etc. i did that on my old Volvo that was having the same issues i couldn't for the life of trace the drain but after i did that the problem was good to go also adds a bit of deterrent to so called thieves. Either way hope you figure it out
Nice job on the E36 Alberto,it looks and sounds great especially the colour now blends the body kit with the body lines!
spray soapy water around the outside your window seals and spray air from the inside. if bubbles appear thats wear your water is leaking from.
Awsome to see the boostmachine is back on the road :D love that u turn you did :D
You need to mate the pulley to the shaft. Put it on with some low grit valve mating paste and turn left to right from the key position. Then remove, clean and assemble to specified torque with new bolt and key. It’s an old trick we use on powerful modified two strokes when the key keeps braking on the magnetic wheel ;) .
Just an idea which i could be wrong about but i had a strange problem before with the altinator pully on a german car. There is a dampner in the actual pully which siezes and makes serpentene belt skip and power steering squeal. Could cause woodruff key to break maybe.
Anyway keep up the great videos.
J-bolt tip: Torque 100 Nm or 72 FT. LBS., followed by torque angle 60 °, torque angle 60 ° and then torque angle 30 °. Keep up the good work.
I don't think that is your throw-out bearing making that noise. If you still have the stock transmission fluid with a lightened flywheel it will make that noise. You may need to change to the 1 bottle of 75w140ns gear oil and 1 bottle of redline atf fluid mix that UUC recommends to get rid of that noise.
Nice to see the car back to life. Amps are a common cause of power drains some times the signal wire from the stereo causes the amp to think it should still be working also did your car have comfort locking as that can cause a power drain as the car won't sleep.
Formula 1Fan fit a dual battery isolator and run everything through that, or can just run all your nonessentials through that. More professional alternative is to set up a hub and run source powering to it through a single super heavy duty relay switched from ignition barrel to bypass constant drains.
I know a bunch of people have said it already but seriously, torque that bolt to spec. Don't screw around.
lock tight and proper torque spec
Your PROBLEM is your torque wrench.....being close to 80ft/lbs off of spec with the performance of your car is no bueno..... this is why it keeps coming loose . Anyways get a torque wrench meant for heavy duty diesel application from a big rig tools/tractors supply company near you and torque that bolt down to 300!
By the by, I told you already but I'll tell you again. That color way is so awesome. You killed it bro.
I just had the same problem on my LS swap. Bolt and pulley came out and its a big pita to get to. At least there's no key, but if I decided to boost I'll have to make one for it to prevent slippage.
you better check the condition of the Keyway on the crankshaft & crank pulley or else you'll be spinning a top in mud as they say ...every 2 weeks, you'll be back in there fixing it. Good luck Big Boost!
The puddle in the back your car doe
What's your plan for the coolant reservoir? What are you looking to upgrade to? Engine bay looks too clean to have that staring back at you as soon as you pop the hood!
Hey Alberto, why don't you buy or rent a flywheel locking tool to properly torque that bolt. On the far end of your torque wrench it won't be perfectly 250 so you can try to torque to that and then use a breaker bar for the rest, at least it'll be close... some red thread locker and see how that does. Also, do you think the amount of movement in the crankshaft is causing the woodruff key to move enough to shear? Maybe you need to add some material to the key via welding and grind it flat until it fits perfectly in there. Just a few ideas...
There’s one remote power wire that goes from the amp to the deck, if it got unplugged or the connection is bad it will keep power to it all the time, it’s a small draw so it would probably take a few days too
Lock the flywheel. Good luck with the new repair. Car looks good 👍🏼
Please record a video when you troubleshoot what is draining your battery. I'd be interested because I am having the same problem! 👍
You can put a switch in to turn power on and off for the amp if you don't have one, also you could and an exposed wire(s) that could be doing it too
Hey big boost when I did my m50b30 I put a punch into the flywheel locking spot in the block and used a 3/4 breaker bar and had the car in gear with the handbrake on and just did it up until I couldn't go any tighter and In that time you have broken 2 keys (I think) I would suggest that if you can't get access to a 3/4 torque wrench or possibly see if you can get in contact with Chelsea denofa and see what he ran on his m50 FD car
How tight does the woodroof key fit in the crank and the pulley? It looks like there is some amount of wear on the crank and the pulley by where the key goes. If there is any play/clearance/wear it will cause the pulley to slip on the crank causing you to keep breaking woodroof keys. If what im suggesting is the problem a machine shop can fix it as well as adding another slot for another key in the crank and pulley.
Damn you know what you're doing! So quickly got that done. She breaks loose REAL quick, damn!
Install a battery kill switch on you dash.
You should get the crank machined to use two or three woodruff keys. It would be a pita to do obviously but it would hold a lot more stress instead of shearing the keys
The top end sound 🤤🤤🤤 Alberto rev it out she sounds so good 👌🏼
Okay I am watching this at 1:30AM and when I heard the door bell in your video I jumped SO hard! Freaked me out so badly, I paused the video mid ring and noticed it was the video...that really scared me. XD
Water in your car dude when you were test driving but love that turbo man sounds like a jet!
hey a friend just had the same issue, but symptoms before the key smoothed down was vibrations at idle, i would tighten that crank bolt more if i were you before this issue happens again
Bug the LZ a little more he'll help out a man in need, and whatever you do don't swap that engine out damn it's nice, sounds fantastic and had a lot of labor of love in it
Go to Harbor Freight and get the 3/4" torque wrench, it is cheap and will get that bolt tighten to the correct torque spec. If you don't you are asking for this to repeat all over again.
Why don’t you do what Taylor just did to his ls drill it and as another key
Jairo Canales exactly
The reason guys with LS motors do that is because some of those engines don't come with a keyway for the crank pulley. When their making a lot of power the pulley tends to either break or come lose because of it.Does nobody know this or am I missing something here because everyone mentions this in every post.
There would be no content to show plus he like wasting money
As everyone has stated. The reason this keep happening is because your not getting the bolt to the required torque. Go get the correct torque wrench and tighten it down. This will happen again and again. I’ve seen 1000whp s50’s no brake like this. Tighten the bolt down correctly and you’ll never have this problem again
Hope everything work out with the garage love the color of the car😊
It almost seems as the bolt bottoms out and not putting pressure on the pulley. So only the woodruff key is holding the pulley, not pressure from the bolt.
Radiators are like EGGS Boost you gotta be easy with EGGS...
some supercharger kits have you drill holes in the crank and pulley and install pins to keep from breaking the key
Nice job. Not ready for the scrap heap yet! 😉💪👌
I forgot Alberto had a channel ... thought he was all shacked up welcome back big boost
put a relay on your remote line. also, do you use water wetter?
Single mass flywheels always chatter (most cases) because dual mass takes out the vibrations, nothing to worry about, can be annoying, some are louder than others
Question! cant you remove the crankshaft send it to a machine shop where they would mill the keylet hole to a deeper rectagular one then u would use a rectagular deeper keylet with more surface area of contact that would be more resistent and if would fit the same and maby never have that problem again ? i know its stupid for the amount of work it gives but take it into consideration if u ever need to overhaule the engine again !
Helder Alves the problem isn't the keyway itself, it's the fact that he's not torqueing the bolt to spec. It's a torque to yield bolt, which means it stretches as it reaches correct torque and that gives it it's clamping power. If it's not actually torqued to spec, it's basically just barely holding the pulley on until it eventually it vibrates loose and shatters the key again
And just go to a shop and have them tighten the bolt to spec real quick if you don't have the tool for it. Shouldn't cost too much to tighten one bolt.
Did anyone notice the anime background picture on his laptop at 1:33 wouldnt expect big boost to be an anime fan xD haha
Love the bmw motors but soon ill be doing a 3uzfe with pmc adapter plate to my ZF trans. Cheap and lots of NA power.
Rather than trying to find the source of the drain it might be way easier to just get a master kill switch. I installed one in my E36 because whenever I'd find of what was draining my battery and fix it something else would come up and start causing the same problem.
That said if the battery isn't connected to anything it can't drain. Easy fix.
You got water in your back seats or where they use to be.
I get the same thing too.
Theres alot of water in your back seat if you dont notice but loved the video 😁🙏🏼👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
If the tapers don’t fit each other perfectly it will continue to break the woodruff key off as it will be relying on the woodruff key holding the pulley and not the taper
Thats what i was thinking, the woodruff key is gonna be banging around in the old chowdered slot, damaging both more.
Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks as if you have some pretty radical torque steer?
Is the Stock trunk light still in the car? My light was always on. Caused a lot of headache
look into getting a NEW crank pulley, the rubber on yours's looks cracked and worn. This will affect the dampening of the harmonic balancer, maybe part of the problem.
Hey Alberto around 14:49 what's that water sloshing around where the rear seats go
You can get the machine shop to machine more slots in your crank and pulley to solve that issue.
That was allota loose haha. Good thing youre replacing the woodrif key, mad life lil easier for u that it was broken lol
Kinda tired of broken car videos
If you want a better alternative explanation tank use the late model e30 it is the one the euro models used and works better
A little rougher production compared to Chris Fix... We get the point. Thanks for posting, enjoy your content.
15:00 why you have water in the back of the car ?
Anyone else see all the water splashing about in the back of the car
Are you using the same keyway tabs each time? If I were you, I'd order a new one from somewhere that uses much stronger material. If you keep using the same part made out of the same material, the best predictor of the future is the past - it's just going to keep breaking. How many times have you replaced it now? Save yourself some time. If you can't order a new, stronger keyway tab off-the-shelf, go to a metal shop with one of those replacements and have them make you one out of much stronger material, using yours to reference for dimensions, etc. Problem solved permanently.
And I think it was a great idea to replace your crank bolt; I'll bet it's a torque-to-yield bolt, which are never meant to be re-used.
Just my 0.02. Great vid, mayne!
Can you tell is something about the BMW station car in your garage? Looks very nice
damn u got swimming pool in back of car? xD nice vid! 15:00
Hey is that water behind your seat?
battery dying could be the amp, or the some light switches for the doors. check those
Harden the key with your tourches in till its glowing red and then throw,it in oil. Should stop it from breaking.
Yo big man, how come u have that water on ur " back seat" ?
Is time for RB26 Swap alberto!!
Bigboots Turbo
As I mentioned last time the crank damper spun, you should dowel pin the crank... when will people learn??
Maybe try having the woodruff key cryo treated so it won't break!
Check your bolt length, maybe?
Big Boost what happened to the shop you was sharing a few months ago?
It's an e36 don't expect too much and can you please remove the water from the rear "seats"
Where do you get or name or the torque wrench that reads
ooh damn that car sounds sexy :D 15:55 I just love how controlled you look and drift that U-turn like a king :D
Alberto Please show the Electrical troubleshooting with the Battery for next video - because I have the same problem, in my car, I have to hook it up to the charger or it doesnt last more than 3 days. or 2 if the temp drops
mrlithium69 fit yourself an isolator. Cheap af and super quick fix
That looks like its for two or multiple car Batteries. I don't get it...
Buy a manual battery isolator switch, (most common is a big heavy duty dial switch, or may have oversized red key in it) Fit inline in some heavy (8 gauge etc) wiring, connect all wires connecting to positive terminal on your battery currently to one end, and connect other end to the positive terminal on the battery. You can mount the switch under bonnet, or for easier access, hook one end to all wiring on + terminal, loop the wiring through the firewall (so the switch can be mounted inside the vehicle) run other end back through firewall into engine bay and hook onto battery. Turn switch off when not using car. Will prevent any electrical drains on battery.
mrlithium or...can use heavy wire same as manual switch method. But instead of the manual switch, use a relay triggered by toggle switch on dash, or ignition barrel. (Note: toggle switch or ignition barrel must be powered directly if using to trigger relay.)
This way will still have a standby current draw on the battery, but it will be very very minimal
Sorry lmk if any of it doesnt make sense and ill clarify.
Bro big boost I have a 2006 explorer and it gets down I love
Your big boost of course it will start.
Titanium Woodruff key, also could 2 stepping be damaging the key??
I have the same flywheel lot of noise on zf and getrag. people always think my trans is blown
Drain the water from your back seat, it looks like a swimming pool back there lol
alberto u gotta change whatever's breaking the key cuz just doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result isn't going to change anything good luck
Crank bolt continues to break yet you STILL dont fix it properly. Go and borrow a torque wrench that goes to the required amount and actually fix the problem.
You need that tommyfyeah spec radiator setup he has on the 318ti
Big boost! Is that water in the back seat?!
Hey bro well done for getting it back up and running. Speaking of rain and water, what is it with you TH-camrs so reluctant to use antifreeze/coolant? I just don't get it.
doesnt freeze in florida.
Tom R yes genius but water boils!
They use “water wetter”
Just look it up, genius
Plus, it’s a pressurised system, so you just use a higher load radiator cap and that’s it
Generally you aim to have the system well bled and eficient enough to not be boiling, obviously
Time for a 2J or maybe even an RB swap...... Maybe you'll have better luck with them 🤷♂️
OMG_itsDat1Guy RB26DETT
You have a pool in the backseat...
Hey Alberto drill some small holes for the water inside the car to escape
Yeah!! Alberto 🕺🏻👍🏻
put some GREEN locktide on the key , that will keep it from vribrate ! thats why she always broke! thats happend all the time on high speed application at my job
Can you pin the crank pulley? Seen it done on LS engines loads of times.
why was there water in the back does it leak?