All of my mechanic friends disagree with you. They told me my car needs new rings but I could see that the problem was that it’s flooding. So you just answered a question I had while explaining another. 🙏🏾
There has been so much misinformation regarding Nikasil. Having owned one for a long time I experienced the flooding problem so often - and lucky that we have low-Sulphur fuel here. Rings were never the problem - when Nikasil failed it was the bores, the rings were chrome-plated and never suffered from erosion
Great Video Tim. Ive spent many an hour chatting with my Jaguar friends on this topic and you have described the whole story really well and included the associated. issue that us jag fans refer to as 'Bore wash' really well. I shall recommend that my subscribers visit your channel. Best regards John from 'To the Garage'
great info tim . had an e34 540 that had 200,000 miles on it and my e31 m60 has 176,000 miles on it now not had any issues with nikasil , but back in the early 1990s i used to walk to work passed a bmw dealer round the back of liverpool street .every time i did they had an m60 block with its heads off and a new block sat in a crate next too it :)
Great documentary. You're getting into the film industry now, aren't you? We've already seen director insight in seconds from disaster reconstruction ;)
I'd actually forgotten the reference to Jaguar in this video. I just shared it to a popular Jaguar XK8 FB forum in response to someone's concern about Nikasil and pleasantly reminded myself what a masterful video this is, a pleasure to watch.
Thanks for explaining this Nikasil problem extremely well, I always understood the main problem to be high sulphur content in the petrol back then but that didn't explain why some cars were affected and not others, this extra bit of information that the ECU is programmed to inject extra fuel on start up makes a lot of sense, just a thought, why not have a solenoid pressure release valve in the main fuel line to dump the pressure back to the tank then after the engine had cranked for maybe 2-3 seconds, close the valve, pressure comes back up engine starts without over fuelling. I do have an early XK8 which still has it's original engine, I think (not sure how you can tell) never had any problem starting it, but if I only move it a short distance I always let it run until warmed up especially in cold weather. Just on another note I also have a late 5.0 XKR when I start it, hot or cold it revs straight up to 2,000 rpm can't be good for the engine especially if it has be stood for a couple of weeks and most of the oil has drained back, perhaps I need to try my idea on it.
Thanks John, and good to hear from you. Being an electronics sort of bloke I would go for a delay for the injectors - so they only fire when the engine actually starts turning rather than squirting away before anything happens! No problem for me these days as I have the later M62 in my 840ci!
I currently drive a 1994 840ci with the M60. I purchased the car 10 years ago and during a service noticed the car had been recalled for the nikasil issue. It did not state what the solution was. The car runs fine at 90k miles. Re how carefree the 750il was- I have to disagree. I worked for BMW of Beverly Hills when this car was new. We catered to VERY high profile entertainment industry clients (Spielberg, Horner, Isner, etc) and they make their displeasure known. Our dealership replaced 23 vehicles within the first 24 months at BMWNA cost just to keep these people happy. You name it, it went wrong with those cars.
my e31 fitted with m60 too. when I bought it owner was saying bmw replaced engine (£11k in 1995) I never look into it to see if it was true or not because I never had issues in 6 years ownership
Not really, you do get more grunt from the M62/M62TUB, and a well-maintained M62B44 (especially when fitted to the E31 with the 85C thermostat) should last for a good 200,000 miles. Alusil is just as wear-resistant as Nikasil, so it really is up to the individual!
Hi Timm, I've enjoyed your BMW e38 website for years. I think overall that website helps E38 owners better than any other website that I have found. It is simply great support and DIY instructions for BMW e38 owners. I also have a couple of nice Mercedes SL's and Porsche 011's that I also have decent support on the internet. However, your website is the best. Now I have discovered your TH-cam channel and am enjoying this more than the E38 website! :) Any chance you would be interested in owning Jaguar XJR X308? They are awesome cars and I think it complements the BMW's you like to own and drive. I can tell you this … the Jaguar community needs someone like you in a bad way. Keep up the great work and consider the Supercharged Jag XJR for a new addition to you stable!!! :)
Hey Timm, great work, I am considering a second hand 6 series and your videos have been very useful for learning about the potential issues and how to prevent them. As a software engineer myself I'd say it was probably the marketing department that wanted the engine to 'roar to life' and engineering grudgingly added the fuel priming code to make them happy ;^)
Tim a really well argued and considered piece. My own e32 is on you tube - have a look at Matt’s Furious Driving as he reviews it a few weeks ago. Luckily its the m30 6 cyl version. Im also swapping out the broken heater control valve though! The question is would you recommend a v8 E32 now as a result? What a shame you were not in the meeting at the time to encourage them to keep looking for the culprit. They must have thought it was manufacturing issues with the castings and they were easy to blame. But then they should have looked at the type of markets that were being impacted. There must be some V 8 e32 which will be on their second and third engine courtesy of BMW customer services! Lee
Nikasil coated bores on the engine of my 1984 BMW R100RS motorcycle that I bought new from the factory & still have. It is still on its original bore pistons & rings despite having at least 200k kilometres on the clock. Only recently has it started blowing a bit of smoke & showing a drop in compression. I've recently bought a Jaguar XKR that has its original Nikasil engine & runs like a dream.
2 stroke oil in fuel sprayed into the manifold worked great after doing the oil in bore (with stabiliser and blown around with short bursts of compressed air), my mechanic mate said it was the fastest he'd ever restored compression on a flooded M60, he was pretty chuffed with himself when he came up with that one I'm the owner of two Nikasil 540i's with about 290,000 km's because Australia never had high sulfur petrol. And I highly recommend a chip tune, DudMD chip seemed to reduce the stink of unburned fuel on startup there used to be so I assume it reduces the fuel dump on starting
Very interesting and well done video, great job! Is there an aftermarket ECU that fixes the flooding problem of the M60 and do you actually like the M60 more than the M62?
Now, that's a good question! The best for performance is the M62TUB44 - oodles of power at the bottom end. The best for reliability is the M60 - but I do prefer the M62, powerful and uncomplicated by the noisy Vanos....
Hi Tim. Your series of posts is a grant for me to call you the erudite of motor technology. Riveting presentation style, and well researched. Thank you for the extra mile. Please help share your thoughts on M60b40 E34 engine flushing, and new oil refills afterwards? Secondly, do you recommend timing chain tensioner replacement without replacing guides for >300 000km smooth performing engine, or would you do both? I like this M60b40 engine, satisfying performance for me👌! Thanks Tim
Thanks Sonny! As long as you have done regular oil-changes there is no need to flush. Flushing is for cars that have stood for years and the oil has decomposed. Same with the tensioner, if there is no rattling then leave it alone!
First of all wanted to take the time and congratulate you on having this information for us the ones that really dont know what we have really in our hands with our E38. I personally have a 740il 1995 and will tell you as of now never had any problems with the engine and I can probably drive down the street with a quarter standing on the motor and it won't move a bit, that's how good and quiet these engines are running. I guess I have two question what are those piano and musical hardware you have in back of you are you a hearted musician? Jajajajajjaja...but I did wanted to ask you BMW did recall these issues to fix correct, meaning the software side or engine replaced??
Thank you. Are you saying that The M60 is less prone to chain guides failure IF serviced correctly? I bought a 1995 740 yesterday with 180 000 miles Runs smooth, silent, no smoke. No rattles. Best regards from Sweden
Thanks Tim, great insight, it fits all the variables. I think some of these issues have enabled people like myself to pick up an excellent car at excellent second hand prices. You mentioned the timing chain of the N62 - mine has 60000 miles on a 2006 - given its age would you recommend changing the guides now (instead of waiting for debris to show up in the oil or higher millage as a trigger), and, do you know of an aftermarket supplier that has a better set of guides than the OEM?
Thanks! I have planned a video on the timing chain guides, but, replace the chain tensioners (there's two of them) and change oil every 5000 miles with a good oil amzn.to/2zDEgWC and hopefully you will never have any problem with them. Also, use a rubber/plastic treatment such as: amzn.to/2TM18dn to keep the stem seals and gaskets from falling apart. 60,000 miles is absolutely nothing on these engines!
Very good video, but just to point out... As far as i know the m52 engines use Siemens ms41 family of dme , not sure but the m60 might be Bosch Motronic... I am bragging it up because for two different dme manufacturers and software versions to use the same flawed start sequence is truly remarkable (maybe the had some goos idea behind that but who knows)
Thanks Kostadin, I think the likely link is Motorola - they produced microprocessors targeted at car manufacturers - in 4, 6 and 8 cylinder variants (we used to use them in the late 80's for other purposes) - and they came with example software for those applications. Whether this had any bearing on the final software I have no idea - but I reckon that is the link!
Thanks Timm My M60 is on 230k miles. No record of engine swap in full history file going back to sales receipt. Is it possible it had new liners fitted ? I previously thought block swaps were the only option. Maybe it's just lucky and plain original. Its first owner for about 15yrs was from Winchester not the North West where sulphur fuel issues are thought to be worst. Anyway - many thanks for another good vid.
I thought that while starting and with your foot all the way down on the accelerator you are in WOT (wide open throttle) which initiates clear flood mode. This would prevent the injectors from pulsing whilst still initiating spark thus clearing the flood.This mode I thought was in pretty much all fuel injected vehicles past a date I cant recall.
That may be a feature of the Jag software update, but BMW never introduced it - unfortunately for Jaguar, by the time the software update was introduced it was too late and the damage to the marque was done!
"There is nothing wrong with Nikasil." Well there obviously was for this application. Nikasil was not robust to the *known* real world fuel variability. The fuel was not the problem. The fuel was a know real world factor. Like say, the weather ... inconsistent and inconvenient but known to be so. The problem was the failure of BMW and Jaguar to consider the effect of the fuel on the coating. The prevailing sulphurs levels were known but the failure mode was not adequately considered at the FMEA, design or test stages of the engine projects in either company. If you get the relevant Bavarian and Coventrian engine design engineers in a bar and buy them enough beers they will tell you this.
I always hated my engines when they started right way, knowing that there's gas running with dry cylinders and when it doesn't start right away, it's flooding time... I rather like Lamborghini with their six seconds without gas, when cranking the engine!
From what I read on the Jaguar forums when I was producing this video, you could 'ask' to have the feature disabled. However, this was unsubstantiated so I cannot give a firm answer.
great info like always. I also have M60 in my e31, and never had any problem. I only use my e31 for long fun drive always try avoid short journeys or just move it around in parking so far everything fine. now I use 10W 60 oil and it's fine...wonder if you would avoid using 10W 60 in m60?
But let's be honest, bar the 4-pot E30 and E34 M cars, every performance engine BMW has produced has either been a total disaster or problematic at best - 6, 8 or 10 cylinders. And lest we forget the brilliant engineering that was the SMG gearbox (cough). BMW are Hardley at the top of the reliability game when they're at their best ... whatever that is!
skip to 17:58 tldr: it was the software When starting the engine the system pre-squirted certain amount of the fuel into the cylinders... In cases when the engine refused to start (for whatever reason) the next attempt at starting the engine introduced even more extra fuel into the cylinder. This washed the oil off of the cylinder walls which then caused the Ni to get eaten away by the fuel, resulting in the loss of compression.
Mercury engines "cooled by seawater" ... "you don't get much colder than that"? Those genius's at mercury copied this nifty device used on cars called a "thermostat" to control the engine temperature. Very clever of them. I am here because I own 2 x 2012 Yamaha F300 outboards both of which recently death spiraled with the root cause appearing to be Nikasil coating failure. They have a thermostat that is speced to open at 126F/52C which is colder than most other outboards or cars which tend to use 160+F thermostats. So the nikasil failed, don't yet know why, after which blowby increased dumping water vapor into a cold crankcase at a rate that the engine could not eliminate so water built up in oil at a prodigious rate causing myriad other failures. Anyone else out there with a similar experience? Any guidance on where to look for the cause of the nikasil failure?
The Nikasil failure was probably the end-result of some other problem, possibly crankcase ventilation. Even compared to our BMW V8's which run at 226F (108C) I very much doubt the seawater-cooled engine temperature of 52C has any bearing on the problem. Unless you are using fuel with a high Sulphur content the Nikasil should be the last point of failure, it is so much more durable than steel-liners. If you have water in the oil suspect your crankcase ventilation system - it is a much easier route between the coolant and crankcase.
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All of my mechanic friends disagree with you. They told me my car needs new rings but I could see that the problem was that it’s flooding. So you just answered a question I had while explaining another. 🙏🏾
There has been so much misinformation regarding Nikasil. Having owned one for a long time I experienced the flooding problem so often - and lucky that we have low-Sulphur fuel here. Rings were never the problem - when Nikasil failed it was the bores, the rings were chrome-plated and never suffered from erosion
Great Video Tim. Ive spent many an hour chatting with my Jaguar friends on this topic and you have described the whole story really well and included the associated. issue that us jag fans refer to as 'Bore wash' really well. I shall recommend that my subscribers visit your channel.
Best regards
John from 'To the Garage'
Glad you enjoyed it John, I've commented on your video!
Brilliant story.Thank you Timm
My pleasure!
great info tim . had an e34 540 that had 200,000 miles on it and my e31 m60 has 176,000 miles on it now not had any issues with nikasil , but back in the early 1990s i used to walk to work passed a bmw dealer round the back of liverpool street .every time i did they had an m60 block with its heads off and a new block sat in a crate next too it :)
Thanks, that's a great insight into how awful it was in the 90's for BMW!
Great documentary. You're getting into the film industry now, aren't you? We've already seen director insight in seconds from disaster reconstruction ;)
Sorry, straight back to poking things with spanners next time!
I'd actually forgotten the reference to Jaguar in this video. I just shared it to a popular Jaguar XK8 FB forum in response to someone's concern about Nikasil and pleasantly reminded myself what a masterful video this is, a pleasure to watch.
Thanks Bernard, and good to hear from you again!
Thanks for explaining this Nikasil problem extremely well, I always understood the main problem to be high sulphur content in the petrol back then but that didn't explain why some cars were affected and not others, this extra bit of information that the ECU is programmed to inject extra fuel on start up makes a lot of sense, just a thought, why not have a solenoid pressure release valve in the main fuel line to dump the pressure back to the tank then after the engine had cranked for maybe 2-3 seconds, close the valve, pressure comes back up engine starts without over fuelling. I do have an early XK8 which still has it's original engine, I think (not sure how you can tell) never had any problem starting it, but if I only move it a short distance I always let it run until warmed up especially in cold weather. Just on another note I also have a late 5.0 XKR when I start it, hot or cold it revs straight up to 2,000 rpm can't be good for the engine especially if it has be stood for a couple of weeks and most of the oil has drained back, perhaps I need to try my idea on it.
Thanks John, and good to hear from you. Being an electronics sort of bloke I would go for a delay for the injectors - so they only fire when the engine actually starts turning rather than squirting away before anything happens! No problem for me these days as I have the later M62 in my 840ci!
Hi Timm, this post has brought back some seriously grim memories that I had almost forgotten with a 1990s E39 525i, almost crippled me financially
Thanks! They were hard days!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation the days before youtube 😆
Great video and info as always, thanks timm
Thanks!
Thank you. You have provided me with a wealth of confidence in my Nikasil engine.
Glad to hear that Gord!
Very insightful,thank you for that brief yet detailed information
Glad it was helpful!
You need to use those sequencers and synths you have there to knock yourself up a nice opening sequence for your videos Tim!
I currently drive a 1994 840ci with the M60. I purchased the car 10 years ago and during a service noticed the car had been recalled for the nikasil issue. It did not state what the solution was. The car runs fine at 90k miles. Re how carefree the 750il was- I have to disagree. I worked for BMW of Beverly Hills when this car was new. We catered to VERY high profile entertainment industry clients (Spielberg, Horner, Isner, etc) and they make their displeasure known. Our dealership replaced 23 vehicles within the first 24 months at BMWNA cost just to keep these people happy. You name it, it went wrong with those cars.
my e31 fitted with m60 too. when I bought it owner was saying bmw replaced engine (£11k in 1995)
I never look into it to see if it was true or not because I never had issues in 6 years ownership
That's really interesting, I suppose it was bound to happen with all the new technology....
Very informative and reassuring. I have a '99 reg Jaguar XKR with the original Nikasil engine and it is running just fine!
Great to hear!
Fascinating story, always wondered! I have a 1997 nikasil M52 E39 as my daily driver. 134k and running lovely, never burns a drop of oil.
Would it be true to say surviving nikasil cars are better than the later alusil?
Not really, you do get more grunt from the M62/M62TUB, and a well-maintained M62B44 (especially when fitted to the E31 with the 85C thermostat) should last for a good 200,000 miles. Alusil is just as wear-resistant as Nikasil, so it really is up to the individual!
Hi Timm, I've enjoyed your BMW e38 website for years. I think overall that website helps E38 owners better than any other website that I have found. It is simply great support and DIY instructions for BMW e38 owners. I also have a couple of nice Mercedes SL's and Porsche 011's that I also have decent support on the internet. However, your website is the best. Now I have discovered your TH-cam channel and am enjoying this more than the E38 website! :) Any chance you would be interested in owning Jaguar XJR X308? They are awesome cars and I think it complements the BMW's you like to own and drive. I can tell you this … the Jaguar community needs someone like you in a bad way. Keep up the great work and consider the Supercharged Jag XJR for a new addition to you stable!!! :)
Thanks! I've got enough cars at the moment!
Hey Timm, great work, I am considering a second hand 6 series and your videos have been very useful for learning about the potential issues and how to prevent them. As a software engineer myself I'd say it was probably the marketing department that wanted the engine to 'roar to life' and engineering grudgingly added the fuel priming code to make them happy ;^)
Thanks Melon!
Great info. Really helpful for understanding my engine better. Thanks Timm!
Glad to help!
Wow this is so educational! Thank you!
You're so welcome Zona!
Educational knowledge gained. Feeling better AJ26 Jaguar potential for many more miles
Thanks
My pleasure!
Tim a really well argued and considered piece. My own e32 is on you tube - have a look at Matt’s Furious Driving as he reviews it a few weeks ago. Luckily its the m30 6 cyl version. Im also swapping out the broken heater control valve though! The question is would you recommend a v8 E32 now as a result?
What a shame you were not in the meeting at the time to encourage them to keep looking for the culprit. They must have thought it was manufacturing issues with the castings and they were easy to blame. But then they should have looked at the type of markets that were being impacted. There must be some V 8 e32 which will be on their second and third engine courtesy of BMW customer services!
Lee
Unfortunately, even if I was at that meeting - it was going to be a long time before the real reason showed itself!
Very interesting Tim
Thanks!
Nikasil coated bores on the engine of my 1984 BMW R100RS motorcycle that I bought new from the factory & still have. It is still on its original bore pistons & rings despite having at least 200k kilometres on the clock. Only recently has it started blowing a bit of smoke & showing a drop in compression. I've recently bought a Jaguar XKR that has its original Nikasil engine & runs like a dream.
Thanks! Yes, Nikasil can last many 100's of thousand miles - the top end usually gives up first.
2 stroke oil in fuel sprayed into the manifold worked great after doing the oil in bore (with stabiliser and blown around with short bursts of compressed air), my mechanic mate said it was the fastest he'd ever restored compression on a flooded M60, he was pretty chuffed with himself when he came up with that one
I'm the owner of two Nikasil 540i's with about 290,000 km's because Australia never had high sulfur petrol. And I highly recommend a chip tune, DudMD chip seemed to reduce the stink of unburned fuel on startup there used to be so I assume it reduces the fuel dump on starting
Thanks Benny, that's an interesting way to get the M60 going again!
Very interesting and well done video, great job! Is there an aftermarket ECU that fixes the flooding problem of the M60 and do you actually like the M60 more than the M62?
Now, that's a good question! The best for performance is the M62TUB44 - oodles of power at the bottom end. The best for reliability is the M60 - but I do prefer the M62, powerful and uncomplicated by the noisy Vanos....
Great story..... thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi Tim. Your series of posts is a grant for me to call you the erudite of motor technology. Riveting presentation style, and well researched. Thank you for the extra mile.
Please help share your thoughts on M60b40 E34 engine flushing, and new oil refills afterwards?
Secondly, do you recommend timing chain tensioner replacement without replacing guides for >300 000km smooth performing engine, or would you do both?
I like this M60b40 engine, satisfying performance for me👌!
Thanks Tim
Thanks Sonny! As long as you have done regular oil-changes there is no need to flush. Flushing is for cars that have stood for years and the oil has decomposed. Same with the tensioner, if there is no rattling then leave it alone!
First of all wanted to take the time and congratulate you on having this information for us the ones that really dont know what we have really in our hands with our E38. I personally have a 740il 1995 and will tell you as of now never had any problems with the engine and I can probably drive down the street with a quarter standing on the motor and it won't move a bit, that's how good and quiet these engines are running. I guess I have two question what are those piano and musical hardware you have in back of you are you a hearted musician? Jajajajajjaja...but I did wanted to ask you BMW did recall these issues to fix correct, meaning the software side or engine replaced??
Thanks! My E32 with the M60 engine had all the DME software updates, and it still flooded - so probably not! And yes, a musician!
Thank you.
Are you saying that The M60 is less prone to chain guides failure IF serviced correctly?
I bought a 1995 740 yesterday with 180 000 miles
Runs smooth, silent, no smoke. No rattles.
Best regards from Sweden
Yes, same with most problems, servicing often and early is always the way to go
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thank you. Keep up The good content
Great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks Tim, great insight, it fits all the variables. I think some of these issues have enabled people like myself to pick up an excellent car at excellent second hand prices. You mentioned the timing chain of the N62 - mine has 60000 miles on a 2006 - given its age would you recommend changing the guides now (instead of waiting for debris to show up in the oil or higher millage as a trigger), and, do you know of an aftermarket supplier that has a better set of guides than the OEM?
Thanks! I have planned a video on the timing chain guides, but, replace the chain tensioners (there's two of them) and change oil every 5000 miles with a good oil amzn.to/2zDEgWC and hopefully you will never have any problem with them. Also, use a rubber/plastic treatment such as: amzn.to/2TM18dn to keep the stem seals and gaskets from falling apart. 60,000 miles is absolutely nothing on these engines!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thanks Tim I'll change the tensioners and keep up the good oil
Very good video, but just to point out... As far as i know the m52 engines use Siemens ms41 family of dme , not sure but the m60 might be Bosch Motronic... I am bragging it up because for two different dme manufacturers and software versions to use the same flawed start sequence is truly remarkable (maybe the had some goos idea behind that but who knows)
Thanks Kostadin, I think the likely link is Motorola - they produced microprocessors targeted at car manufacturers - in 4, 6 and 8 cylinder variants (we used to use them in the late 80's for other purposes) - and they came with example software for those applications. Whether this had any bearing on the final software I have no idea - but I reckon that is the link!
Thanks Timm
My M60 is on 230k miles. No record of engine swap in full history file going back to sales receipt. Is it possible it had new liners fitted ? I previously thought block swaps were the only option. Maybe it's just lucky and plain original. Its first owner for about 15yrs was from Winchester not the North West where sulphur fuel issues are thought to be worst. Anyway - many thanks for another good vid.
Liners were never fitted, it was either a Nikasil-plated or Alusil block - and in 2020 Niasil problems are over!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation My engine has never flooded in 6 years of ownership either - it's a 95 model.
I thought that while starting and with your foot all the way down on the accelerator you are in WOT (wide open throttle) which initiates clear flood mode. This would prevent the injectors from pulsing whilst still initiating spark thus clearing the flood.This mode I thought was in pretty much all fuel injected vehicles past a date I cant recall.
That may be a feature of the Jag software update, but BMW never introduced it - unfortunately for Jaguar, by the time the software update was introduced it was too late and the damage to the marque was done!
"There is nothing wrong with Nikasil." Well there obviously was for this application. Nikasil was not robust to the *known* real world fuel variability. The fuel was not the problem. The fuel was a know real world factor. Like say, the weather ... inconsistent and inconvenient but known to be so.
The problem was the failure of BMW and Jaguar to consider the effect of the fuel on the coating. The prevailing sulphurs levels were known but the failure mode was not adequately considered at the FMEA, design or test stages of the engine projects in either company. If you get the relevant Bavarian and Coventrian engine design engineers in a bar and buy them enough beers they will tell you this.
I agree, and that was whole point of the video!
I always hated my engines when they started right way, knowing that there's gas running with dry cylinders and when it doesn't start right away, it's flooding time...
I rather like Lamborghini with their six seconds without gas, when cranking the engine!
When did Jaguar change the injection so they didn't flooding?
From what I read on the Jaguar forums when I was producing this video, you could 'ask' to have the feature disabled. However, this was unsubstantiated so I cannot give a firm answer.
I’m wondering if you can get a dme chip that eliminates the flooding
Not that I know of!
great info like always. I also have M60 in my e31, and never had any problem. I only use my e31 for long fun drive
always try avoid short journeys or just move it around in parking so far everything fine. now I use 10W 60 oil and it's fine...wonder if you would avoid using 10W 60 in m60?
Any full synthetic or semi-synthetic oil replaced one a year will do fine - it is the long wait before oil changes that this engine doesn't like!
@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation thank you I change every 3k mile
Always waste good oil lol
I would just install a switch on the fuel pump, as soon as you engage the starter then turn the fuel pump on.
Unfortunately the fuel system stays pressurised over long periods otherwise that would be a good plan!
Never understood until now Timm - thanks - my 840ci is an M60 with 69k miles - should I worry now do you think?
Nope, all over, the ball's crossed the line and you have scored a win! Nikasil problems were over in 2000.....
Thanks Timm - that’s a relief 😀
Thanks , what year first buy for xk8 ? In US , I want this and some year fine , that want to buy .!!what do and wat not do ??
Sorry, not a Jag man!
Great video.
Thanks!
But let's be honest, bar the 4-pot E30 and E34 M cars, every performance engine BMW has produced has either been a total disaster or problematic at best - 6, 8 or 10 cylinders. And lest we forget the brilliant engineering that was the SMG gearbox (cough). BMW are Hardley at the top of the reliability game when they're at their best ... whatever that is!
skip to 17:58
tldr: it was the software
When starting the engine the system pre-squirted certain amount of the fuel into the cylinders... In cases when the engine refused to start (for whatever reason) the next attempt at starting the engine introduced even more extra fuel into the cylinder. This washed the oil off of the cylinder walls which then caused the Ni to get eaten away by the fuel, resulting in the loss of compression.
Don't spoil the story!
Was there an updated DME for the M60 engine?
The software was changed a few times - an increase in idle speed was one of them - but they never got rid of the 'flood the engine' code!
There was a change to make the engine run hotter but it also reduced power.
Mercury engines "cooled by seawater" ... "you don't get much colder than that"? Those genius's at mercury copied this nifty device used on cars called a "thermostat" to control the engine temperature. Very clever of them. I am here because I own 2 x 2012 Yamaha F300 outboards both of which recently death spiraled with the root cause appearing to be Nikasil coating failure. They have a thermostat that is speced to open at 126F/52C which is colder than most other outboards or cars which tend to use 160+F thermostats. So the nikasil failed, don't yet know why, after which blowby increased dumping water vapor into a cold crankcase at a rate that the engine could not eliminate so water built up in oil at a prodigious rate causing myriad other failures. Anyone else out there with a similar experience? Any guidance on where to look for the cause of the nikasil failure?
The Nikasil failure was probably the end-result of some other problem, possibly crankcase ventilation. Even compared to our BMW V8's which run at 226F (108C) I very much doubt the seawater-cooled engine temperature of 52C has any bearing on the problem. Unless you are using fuel with a high Sulphur content the Nikasil should be the last point of failure, it is so much more durable than steel-liners. If you have water in the oil suspect your crankcase ventilation system - it is a much easier route between the coolant and crankcase.
15:15
Don't spoil the surprise!