Sorry for the stupid question/request, but could you please tell what kind of grease you are using? I'm thinking gof using "Balistol" general purpose weapon oil. How about that?
Hi there, you can use balistol gun oil for the metal mechanical parts. No problem, but I would use Abbey silicone oil for the o-rings and nozzle parts. I use Super Lube for the metal machinical wearing parts. A little bit goes a long way.
@@MiddleAgeGamerukGoing to be honest, I was a bit worried when you used silicone oil but I'm glad to have read you also use SuperLube for other mechanically wearing parts.
Great video however using silicone oil/grease on metal parts that are heavily used isn't good option you need abby SM50 for moving parts like bolt, the nocker valve, hammer those kind of parts and Lt2 grease for springs, bearing style stuff. Lt2 is great for aegs gear too. SM50 is by far better then silicone grease for non- rubber parts as silicone turns into gunk while sm50 doesn't as its a lube and you don't need loads
Hi there, no, I did not need to chainge the catch spring, the main issue I ran I to causing the bolt to lock back was not seating the bolt correctly on the sear in the upper. This would cause a number of issues like lock back and nozzle catching on stanag mags. A quick pop of the rear pin and removal of the bold, reinsertting correctly, so it was correctly engaging the sear. You can check this by moving the sear, which should also move the bolt. Having done this, the gun runs great. All this will be shown in the full review. Hope that helps.
@@MiddleAgeGameruk Interesting In Korea community, everyone is suffering from the same problem(including mcx) Okay, I'm looking forward to your full review video Thanks
Hey question to any of the Middle Aged gamers out there reading this … this gun I’m assuming is wa system.. so what are the odds I could build it ghk? Excuse my ignorance
Hi there, the old gen1 vfc gbbrs were very similar to Western arms design, but the later gen2 and gen3 are so different, it would be hard. Vfc went the milspec way, unlike the ghk, which is slightly of spec, etc.. that's forgetting that the upper is based on the APFG design, who are really VFC lol.
This is awesome!
Thank you!
Babe, another middle aged gamer video just dropped.
Looks sexy af, tracer in the can during night/dark games between that looks good
Sorry for the stupid question/request, but could you please tell what kind of grease you are using? I'm thinking gof using "Balistol" general purpose weapon oil. How about that?
Hi there, you can use balistol gun oil for the metal mechanical parts. No problem, but I would use Abbey silicone oil for the o-rings and nozzle parts. I use Super Lube for the metal machinical wearing parts. A little bit goes a long way.
@@MiddleAgeGamerukGoing to be honest, I was a bit worried when you used silicone oil but I'm glad to have read you also use SuperLube for other mechanically wearing parts.
wait... THIS ISNT AIRSOFT !!!! btw looks cool. whish it wasnt somthing i cant get
it is airsoft
@@Bana-Nami oh thanks for the clarification
Hi guys buying my son his first gbb pistol he has been Airsofting for year.
Any recommendations for under £200
Cheers👍
Hi there, what style does he like? Glock, 2011, etc...
@@MiddleAgeGameruk I've just found out he likes the TM Hi capa , not my cuppa tea I think you have a vid on it , I'll have a look cheers
No problem, I run the TM D.O.R. white version, but there are so many options for him to choose. The clasic choice is the gold match.
@@MiddleAgeGameruk just a quick question have you used wgc shop by chance .
Hi there, yes, wgc is the second shop I use when ordering from Asia.
Can i ask where you ordered it from?
Hi there, certainly, I got mine from Action Airsoft.
@@MiddleAgeGameruk thanks
Great video however using silicone oil/grease on metal parts that are heavily used isn't good option you need abby SM50 for moving parts like bolt, the nocker valve, hammer those kind of parts and Lt2 grease for springs, bearing style stuff.
Lt2 is great for aegs gear too.
SM50 is by far better then silicone grease for non- rubber parts as silicone turns into gunk while sm50 doesn't as its a lube and you don't need loads
OKIDOKI!
Yep, that’s cool👍
Hi
Did you change bolt catch spring?
It is too weak
Bolt carrier is locked when magazine is not empty
Hi there, no, I did not need to chainge the catch spring, the main issue I ran I to causing the bolt to lock back was not seating the bolt correctly on the sear in the upper. This would cause a number of issues like lock back and nozzle catching on stanag mags. A quick pop of the rear pin and removal of the bold, reinsertting correctly, so it was correctly engaging the sear. You can check this by moving the sear, which should also move the bolt. Having done this, the gun runs great. All this will be shown in the full review. Hope that helps.
@@MiddleAgeGameruk
Interesting
In Korea community, everyone is suffering from the same problem(including mcx)
Okay, I'm looking forward to your full review video
Thanks
Hey question to any of the Middle Aged gamers out there reading this … this gun I’m assuming is wa system.. so what are the odds I could build it ghk? Excuse my ignorance
It's VFC
Hi there, the old gen1 vfc gbbrs were very similar to Western arms design, but the later gen2 and gen3 are so different, it would be hard. Vfc went the milspec way, unlike the ghk, which is slightly of spec, etc.. that's forgetting that the upper is based on the APFG design, who are really VFC lol.
Yup, i always said the sig sauer rifles where just ugly m4s. Lol
you scratched your lower receiver while assembling it🫣😖😖