Great to see another video! Thanks again for the wiring diagram. I have added reverse utilising the redundant headlight on/off switch. Reverse power can only go down to 25% but it's ok as long as you are careful. If you are going to the trouble of rebuilding the battery it may be worthwhile to investigate higher capacity cells.
@@danielcharlescini Good idea. I would have probably tried to pull all the glue off and made a mess. What crimp pins did you use? I might have a go some time.
Great to see you back. Another impressive show of your abilities and ingenuity. I wish I could say something about what you did, but it went right over my head 😅
All the cells were bad. It was neglected and left connected to a bike for over a year so it was completely discharged. It would be nice if I could use original cells. They're really good. It would be 3.7kg lighter with the cells I tested though.
man this is 🤯, very impressive, so this cell you've picked up is the same size, more powerful but less capacity? very interesting. I dont think I'd want any less than the original 45ah but theres definitely a market out there for re-building these batteries
Well, they claim 10C continuous but the voltage sag wasn't wonderful. It would make a lighter pack by about 3.7kg so maybe good for an off road bike or a nip to the shops bike. The cells are relatively cheap if you ship by sea.
@@RossJ777 They're very good quality cells. The new cells I bought are 25% smaller and lighter but have 33% less capacity. So weight for weight the standard cells have 8% more capacity. That's a meaningful amount.
I’m in Canada and would love to be able to use these batteries (I have two) over the winter months as emergency power. Would it be as simple as getting a 72VDC -> 120VAC inverter? Would really appreciate your thoughts.
I deeply discharged my original battery to 60V and I am planning to replace the cells with new ones. My main goal is to increase the capacity which would help me a lot with my daily 70 km driving. Would it be possible to change this battery plates with a 18650 cells and use the original case and BMS?
I don't think you would have enough space to fit the amount of cells required to increase the capacity. I built a whole new battery using 18650's. th-cam.com/video/bpsaGHmRjKo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DagA4A1-PsTWGuQY
guess the voltage requirements are related to the chemistry of the cells, the supplier should be able to provide a spec sheet. Also when splitting the cells it may be a good idea to use to isopropanol to help replace the glue/bonding, you could test this in some glue left on the cells to see if it helps solidify with the isopropanol . great video as usual.
They did provide a spec sheet. It just contradicts what it says on the cells. Good idea, alcohol would definitely have helped. On the couple that leaked the electrolyte helped loosen the bond.
@@thecapacitator8137 too early to sodium ion but maybe in a couple more generations should be a lot cheaper when manufactured at scale these type of vehicles might last a surprisingly long time
@@elduderino7767 Yes there's a lot to look forward to in battery technology. It's not difficult to swap batteries on these bikes so there's every chance we could get batteries with more range and keep the bikes going indefinitely.
Hi. I am starting to get error 98 after about 20 minutes of riding. The bike just doesn’t respond and slows down to a halt. Do you have any experience dealing with it? Thank you very much
@ thank you very much for your reply. I haven’t done any mods to the bike. It starts cutting off very slightly and coming back on its own, until it cuts off completely, i get a flashing error 98 and a slight beeping noise that matches the flashing. I thought it could be fixed by hard turning on and off at the breaker or taking the battery out and charging it, but none of them worked. I can’t see any sign of overheating in the connectors either. Needless to say, it started just a few days after I put my bike for sale ☹️. I was thinking whether changing the bms could do the trick.
@@rodintoulouse3054 Do you have a programming cable? You could try turning the max current down by 5 amps. On some bikes I've come across the controller pulls too much current. Also check it rolls freely with no drag from the brakes etc.
@ thanks again for getting back. There is no obvious friction i can see or hear. My bike has 11000 kilometres and this just started on the last 50-100 km. I thought of buying a new bms, but reprogramming the new one and in the process add reg braking, etc might be a good first possible solution. Do you have any cables left? If so, do you post tgem to France? Cheers 👍
@@rodintoulouse3054 It would be a big job to change it. I haven't tried one myself but I hear these BMS are okay and have canbus for battery level display. s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DnFqfmZ I have plenty of programming cables if you want one. The price includes worldwide postage. titimus.co.uk/shop
Not sure if I would use these cells if you don't have access to the BMS. 3.65V in the old cells suggest a LiFePo4 chemistry, while 3.8 is a mystery to me. The BMS is probably programmed to the parameters of the old cells, whatever these might be, while the new cells might have different valid operating conditions. If you can re-program the BMS is worth a try. If not, there is a certain risk involved that you'll operate the new cells out of spec.
Just because the cells gets delivered charged to 3.7V, it has nothing to do with the nominal voltage where the capacity is calculated. These cells could be HVLi though, but using them as standard Li-Ion chemistry it will just give them a longer lifespan as they are never fully charged. HVLi charges to 4.35V/cell.
Great to see another video!
Thanks again for the wiring diagram. I have added reverse utilising the redundant headlight on/off switch. Reverse power can only go down to 25% but it's ok as long as you are careful.
If you are going to the trouble of rebuilding the battery it may be worthwhile to investigate higher capacity cells.
Oh well done! How did you wire it in to the controller? Getting through the glue on the connector must have been a real task.
@@thecapacitator8137 Paperclip, 1.5mm drill bit then inserted the crimped pin. Next step is to add a button and connect up the boost function.
@@danielcharlescini Good idea. I would have probably tried to pull all the glue off and made a mess. What crimp pins did you use? I might have a go some time.
Great to see you back. Another impressive show of your abilities and ingenuity. I wish I could say something about what you did, but it went right over my head 😅
I'm sure you got the general idea. Thanks for dropping in.
WOW ... great work! Thanks for sharing!
I'VE JUST WATCHED ALL OF YOUR VIDEOS,
they are all great, keep up the good work my friend!
Thank you!
im excited to see your next video about the TC Max :)
Great video!
Keep 'em coming!
Ah man, new video! Love this guy!!
very good build quality
Dear friend, what is the size between screws on bms? Further thanks
Did you test the old cells? I thought they could be resuscitated when charged individually or something to that effect.
They were absolutely flat. If they could have been revived they would be way down on capacity.
Good breakdown. How many bad cells did you find? I guess you could hunt for and harvest another super soco battery to get same cells.
All the cells were bad. It was neglected and left connected to a bike for over a year so it was completely discharged.
It would be nice if I could use original cells. They're really good. It would be 3.7kg lighter with the cells I tested though.
man this is 🤯, very impressive, so this cell you've picked up is the same size, more powerful but less capacity? very interesting. I dont think I'd want any less than the original 45ah but theres definitely a market out there for re-building these batteries
Well, they claim 10C continuous but the voltage sag wasn't wonderful. It would make a lighter pack by about 3.7kg so maybe good for an off road bike or a nip to the shops bike. The cells are relatively cheap if you ship by sea.
@@thecapacitator8137 I think one of the main take aways is how impressive the super soco cells are!
@@RossJ777 They're very good quality cells. The new cells I bought are 25% smaller and lighter but have 33% less capacity. So weight for weight the standard cells have 8% more capacity. That's a meaningful amount.
@@thecapacitator8137永遠不要忽視中國製電池的虛標問題，通常他們提供的電容量連參考價值都沒有！
I’m in Canada and would love to be able to use these batteries (I have two) over the winter months as emergency power. Would it be as simple as getting a 72VDC -> 120VAC inverter? Would really appreciate your thoughts.
It only works if you have the battery connected to the bike.
th-cam.com/video/cYeHMsiqjHk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JsxqtIiz652uQMfv
I deeply discharged my original battery to 60V and I am planning to replace the cells with new ones. My main goal is to increase the capacity which would help me a lot with my daily 70 km driving. Would it be possible to change this battery plates with a 18650 cells and use the original case and BMS?
I don't think you would have enough space to fit the amount of cells required to increase the capacity. I built a whole new battery using 18650's.
th-cam.com/video/bpsaGHmRjKo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DagA4A1-PsTWGuQY
@@thecapacitator8137 I was thinking of using new 5000 mAh 18650 cells, it needs proper measurements and caluclations
guess the voltage requirements are related to the chemistry of the cells, the supplier should be able to provide a spec sheet.
Also when splitting the cells it may be a good idea to use to isopropanol to help replace the glue/bonding, you could test this in some glue left on the cells to see if it helps solidify with the isopropanol .
great video as usual.
They did provide a spec sheet. It just contradicts what it says on the cells.
Good idea, alcohol would definitely have helped. On the couple that leaked the electrolyte helped loosen the bond.
what about lithium ion phosphate, i guess it depends what you're after, performance/range vs longevity
I think the nominal voltage would be too low. You would need to put more cells in the pack to get the voltage up. Tricky when space is so limited.
@@thecapacitator8137 too early to sodium ion but maybe in a couple more generations
should be a lot cheaper when manufactured at scale
these type of vehicles might last a surprisingly long time
@@elduderino7767 Yes there's a lot to look forward to in battery technology. It's not difficult to swap batteries on these bikes so there's every chance we could get batteries with more range and keep the bikes going indefinitely.
Hi. I am starting to get error 98 after about 20 minutes of riding. The bike just doesn’t respond and slows down to a halt. Do you have any experience dealing with it? Thank you very much
It could be over current, under voltage or over temperature. Have you increased max current in the controller?
@ thank you very much for your reply. I haven’t done any mods to the bike. It starts cutting off very slightly and coming back on its own, until it cuts off completely, i get a flashing error 98 and a slight beeping noise that matches the flashing. I thought it could be fixed by hard turning on and off at the breaker or taking the battery out and charging it, but none of them worked. I can’t see any sign of overheating in the connectors either. Needless to say, it started just a few days after I put my bike for sale ☹️. I was thinking whether changing the bms could do the trick.
@@rodintoulouse3054 Do you have a programming cable? You could try turning the max current down by 5 amps. On some bikes I've come across the controller pulls too much current. Also check it rolls freely with no drag from the brakes etc.
@ thanks again for getting back. There is no obvious friction i can see or hear. My bike has 11000 kilometres and this just started on the last 50-100 km. I thought of buying a new bms, but reprogramming the new one and in the process add reg braking, etc might be a good first possible solution. Do you have any cables left? If so, do you post tgem to France? Cheers 👍
@@rodintoulouse3054 It would be a big job to change it. I haven't tried one myself but I hear these BMS are okay and have canbus for battery level display.
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DnFqfmZ
I have plenty of programming cables if you want one. The price includes worldwide postage.
titimus.co.uk/shop
Hi, any alternative for the BMS and communication module?
I haven't tried it myself but I know somebody who has and it's working for them...
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DmgRj2x
@@thecapacitator8137 this BMS Is not working alone with TC MAX controller. It does need a communication module or crack module.
@@Arpepu Oh dear, I thought it did. The one I used before is not available any more. Please let me know if you find one.
@@thecapacitator8137 th-cam.com/video/7bhC_MrBaUs/w-d-xo.html
Hi my friend, can i made a battery for my tc wanderer too?
Dont forget to use a 3S bls when charging!!!!
I like your new QRP battery. 😂
Hiya mate. Well I couldn't find any QRO ones. 🤷♂
Not sure if I would use these cells if you don't have access to the BMS. 3.65V in the old cells suggest a LiFePo4 chemistry, while 3.8 is a mystery to me.
The BMS is probably programmed to the parameters of the old cells, whatever these might be, while the new cells might have different valid operating conditions.
If you can re-program the BMS is worth a try. If not, there is a certain risk involved that you'll operate the new cells out of spec.
I was thinking of using a different BMS so I can set the parameters. All of the the 3.8V cells I've seen have been lithium polymer.
@@thecapacitator8137 Good idea. Great project, by the way. Can't wait to see the result. 👍
Just because the cells gets delivered charged to 3.7V, it has nothing to do with the nominal voltage where the capacity is calculated. These cells could be HVLi though, but using them as standard Li-Ion chemistry it will just give them a longer lifespan as they are never fully charged. HVLi charges to 4.35V/cell.