Great video Cyd, very helpful! I especially liked the tip to pour some oil through the motor, as a last flush, prior to re-installing the sump plug and your advice to go and put the kettle on and make a cup of tea while the last remnants of oil drip out. Outstanding!
Yeah, this is one of those small details that make a home oil change superior to a garage change. Ramp time is what you're paying for and to maximise ROI the garage wants your car off the ramp asap. You can bet they put the plug back in before the flow has even reduced to a drip.
Thank you for such clear videos of how to do it on a Saab, greatly appreciated, from a grumpy old sod who doesnt do reviews normally but has bought a longed hankered after saab (ended up with a 2005 1.8t Vector auto convertable} in retirement. Lots of most enjoyable tinkering going on lol. Lovely drive. Thank you again Cyd
I'm here because I just had my Saab 1.9 9-3 TiD serviced at Halfrauds. I need to check they've actually changed the filter, as my gut is telling me not to trust them.
I tried. I tried and tried. Everything was going perfectly, until I tried to get the drain plug out of the oil pan. Whomever the lunatic was who did it last, they must've torqued it down with their dying breath. Aside from the fact that it is at the back end of the engine, about 20 feet from the front bumper, even on ramps and then jacked up with a floor jack, I couldn't get enough leverage on it. I was afraid of stripping it, as I had one slip off. So, I borrowed my friend's impact air wrench. No good. Finally gave up and took it to a oil change shop, where I helped them make their boat payments for the month. I'll try again next time, maybe they loosened that drain enough for a human to remove it. Great video, (as are all of your Saab videos) regardless.
I have the exact same experience with a Volvo S60. I tried to loosen that drain but all I could achieve to slip the wrench and almost broke my finger on the asphalt 😂
You could always use a extension to take the pressure you put when trying to remove the bolt off . Example: I use my ratchet and the I use my 3 ton jack handle (the top part which is probably 2 to 3 ft long ) as an extension and it will help take really tight bolts off with out a crazy amount of pressure. I use this method alot 😅 even when the lug nuts are torque to tight I apply some wd40 and let it sit for 5 minutes then get to work
Very helpfull video, however, if you're doing this yourself and the the extra time it takes to let the old oil flush out the engine, why start it up straight away and let it 'top end rattle' as you mentioned in the video. I'm sorry if its a dumb question, just was wondering if it'd be better to just let it sit a while before starting?
Thanks JB. Yes, I have. I'm a great believer in pictures speaking a thousand words and now I've upgraded my laptop and hence my editing software, I've been able to incorporate graphics. I've got one coming up where I'm even gonna try video-in-video. I hope I'm managing to make the graphics relevant so they reinforce the narritive (along with the odd prompt for sharing/liking and subbing). It's good to know it's been noticed and is a positive thing.
What interval do you change the oil? I'm asking about your preference rather than the Saab recommended interval. Cheers! Another very useful, straightforward video!
I agree with Honest John. You should change oil and filter at least every 5-7,000 miles OR twice a year. This will help to keep sludge and varnish at bay. If your mileage is typically short journeys, use a flush every other change.
@@CycloneCyd Thanks Cyd. The location and construction of the oil filter. I'd previously changed the oil and looked for it from under the car and ended up not changing the filter because I couldn't find it. I was delighted to see how accessible and easy it was.
Thank you Cyd!, very clear and helpfull video. One question: if you crank up trhe front of the car is that a problem for the oil drainage? Does it still completely drain the oil from the motor in this position? Thanks again Hugo
I also was wondering about this- the front end of my 2008 is terribly low to the ground and about the only way I'll have to do this is jack it up several inches. I suppose one could raise it to get access, remove the plug, and then lower it to drain ((of course, re-lifting it to reinstall the plug before adding new oil!))
Hi, great video. Have you ever used one of those oil vacuum extractors to change the oil? I have noticed that a few mechanics use them. I would be interested in your thoughts as I would be interested in getting one.
Thanks for the excellent video. My Saab’s oil filter cap doesn’t seem to allow the oil filter to move up and down ( as in on a spring ) when I install it to the cap. Does this mean it needs replacing? What damage could it cause?
Something very strange here. My 2005 9-3 Aero lists 6 litres for an oil and filter change in the handbook. So does every other reference online. I’ve completed 4 oil and filter changes within the last 2000 miles as I’m a little fussy. Every single time anything more than 5.5 litres ends up in overfill. The last change was this week. Again, we removed the oil cap, dipstick, pulled the oil filter out and then lifted car. We then let it drain for about 30 mins when there wasn’t even a drop coming out. We refilled with 5.8 litres of Shell Helix 5W40 as I thought I’d try 200ml less than the book. Same issue again; overfilled, potentially 5/6mm above the max mark on a cold engine!! It’s doing my head in. How can the manufacturer and every other source be so wrong?? We should be under the max as we’ve essentially underfilled, not over!!! The only time I managed to get it exact was with around 5.3 litres which just doesn’t make sense. And yes, I know my cars and have a very competent mechanic/garage who has looked after everything of mine since 2002 including all my BMW’s, Fiats, Alfas, Mercs etc. Mind boggling.
Hold up! "above the max mark on a cold engine!!" - are you measuring the sump level on the dipstick BEFORE running the engine after the change? Also, you shouldn't be measuring the level on a cold engine. On a warm engine, 10 minutes after turning off.
@@CycloneCyd to clarify, I always leave the vehicle overnight on a dead even surface. The following morning after about 20 miles or so getting back to my house after the service it reads over the max. I’ve always checked a cold engine, and I’m sure the Saab owners manual suggests the same!
@@rezaq1 According to saab, you should measure the level with a warm engine after it has stood 3-5 minutes after driving. This says my owners manual and I have a saab 9-3 from 2007
I got a Saab 9-5 linear 2.2l diesel and I got a Mann filter it shows as top seller and was most expensive so I got it but it’s not a snugg fit it feels lose/ to much play then the one I had in already anything I should know ?
Not sure yet. I had planned it for this summer, but things were thrown into disaray by worldwide events. Plus there was some demand for the headlight rebuild series.
Hi Cyd, I was just wondering, why your saab had some sort of lagging around the certain pipe in your engine bay? As always, brilliant ,very clear video!! Daniel
Hi Daniel, it's to keep intake air cool. The pipes I've insulated (with exhaust wrap) are ones that get warm during use and so are warming the air passing through them. amzn.to/37BXD0S
Cyd riddle me this, did you buy another engine oil cap because you lost the original one or because it didn't fit flush? I notice at the start of the video your engine oil cap is yellow but at the end of the video you switched it for a black engine oil cap.
Hi, I have watched many of your videos, sorry I don’t always comment, they are great. NEED HELP!!! Changed my oil many times, and never had this problem, maybe a cheap filter messed me up, but when I went to replace a new filter, I forgot to lubricate the O ring, and decided to unscrew the oil cap off with the new filter, and I had only screwed it, about 2/3’s of the way, and the oil filter never came out! What have I done?? Should I buy a new oil filter cap and try to tighten it down and try to get it out that way? I’m thinking the oil filter cap is shot, and I should have replaced it before this problem. Appreciate any advice!!!!
@@CycloneCyd thanks for the response, an update, I pulled the oil filter out with no problems, just required some hand strength, and a little research to make sure I wouldn’t damage anything. The oil filter cap was the original with the car, 118k miles and 13 years later, worth replacing at the low cost. The mechanism that holds the filter is much stronger on my new cap. And also one of my threads on the cap was a little sketchy, so good to have a nice new threading. No problems thus far, but worried me when it happened!
Yes, definitely. I've been flushing mine every change for the last 120,000 miles and had the cam cover off recently - clean enough to eat your dinner off.
Can you point me in the right direction to remove the internal cup holder under the radio in my saab 93 aero? I can find a vid anywhere, got my vent and radio out but stuck atm cheers BTW your channel is incredible for a fella like me
Hey Cyd, I have a question about the drain plug. How far back is it located on the car? I'm having trouble finding mine to do the oil change on my car. This is a great video that is teaching me to change the oil on my own, which I love
On my Saab 9-3 04 the oil filter cap was very difficult to reach. I had to resort to using a pair of pliers to slowly unscrew it. Just got the car recently I'll need to figure something better out for my next oil change.
It's been a very helpful video indeed.I have a question for you. I own 9-3 1.8t B207 engine. If i clean the throttle body and put it back do i need to reset it via tech 2 ?
I noticed your engine shook a lot when you started. Are your engine mounts going bad or is that just how it is for this car? I recently got a 2004 9-3 Arc convertible and I'm just trying to learn about the vehicles.
Blast!! i didn't see your request. I don't have ready access to a diesel, but I do now know someone with one, so I'll see if I can 'borrow' it sometime. I'm guessing you got it done okay though??
Hi Cyd, Great video as usual. Wondering if one is meant to replace Sump plug washer/O-ring when doing oil change? Is there a specific part number? Many thanks. P
Hi, I've the same 9-3 from Switzerland. What about the Viscosity? 5w-30? 0w-40? I really don't care about the price, more about doing the best for my new car! What do you think? Thanks!
Hi cyd About to do my first oil change on Saab aero 2004, plus brake fluid flush. What oil would you recommend? I’m in Hertfordshire. Do about 6000 mls p/a. Ps. Hope you enjoyed the coffee I bought you. Well deserved!
Thanks Daren, yes a lovely Columbian Latte. I use Shell Helix Pro AG 5w30. My B207 really likes it. I've tried a few and this is defo one of the best. Usually a decent price at ECP or sometimes get it off Amazon. I'm gonna give some Mannol a try soon - it has a good rep on the Continent. I'll report back later in the year in the community section.
Thanks so much for taking the time to reply. All your videos are really helpful and I’m now quite often tinkering with small jobs on the car, and saving a fortune doing jobs myself because of you. I’m about to cover pipes with exhaust insulating tape like yours plus I’ll be doing blue silicone pipes too. Also the T coolent connector. If you get time , where could I purchase the big blue one that goes towards the air filter? Best wishes again. Daren
Not a chance of getting under one of these Saabs without lifting it, lol! I use a pair of caravan ramps for simple jobs like oil changes. Exactly the same as these but yellow s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_olXhx0r
You could if you want. The factory fill is Mobil 1 0W40, but M1 is almost a 5W30 anyway. I'd only use a 40 weight in a hotter climate TBH (southern States, European Med coast etc)
304, Ice Blue. Yeah I love it. When I was buying it (8 years ago) I found 89 Aeros across the UK. After eliminating all the grey, silver and black ones, I was left with a choice of 3 (three) in red metallic (too similar to the Nightfire 800 I was replacing), a white one (too much like a cop car) or this one. It was in great condition at a good price and was made extra special being an Anniversary edition. Personally I think the 2007 model year is the pick of the bunch - 'old' shape outside, facelift interior with much improved electonics. Yours must be Anniversarys too if they are 2007MY and Ice Blue? Have you looked through my other Saab videos?
Yes both of my cars are A60’s. The 9-3 has leather seats with grey inserts and the 9-5 has leather seats with blue inserts (both black leather) I also have the A60 wheels on both cars for summer (there are diffrent ones to 9-3 and 9-5) I Will check out more of your videos from now on :) Cheers
@@Thoorwald88 Mine has the same seats with the grey inserts and SAAB embossed in the upper squab. Blue inserts sounds cool, I've thought about getting some leather paint and doing that. I've repainted my Anniversary alloys anthracite grey. I did have them black for a while, but went off it, the wheels sort-of became invisible in the arches. I've also colour coded the front end and will work my way round. Can't attach photos to comments, so I'll put a photo in my community tab for you.
hello bro I have a 2005 model b207r aero vehicle 300.000km, I used 0w40 oil. It lost 1 liter of oil in 3000 kilometers. Which oil would you recommend for my vehicle? mobil1 dexos2 5w30 or mobil1 esp 5w50?
For what it's worth, I've owned a 2001 1.8t Passat (now 180,000 miles on odometer) for over 6 years, (a car NOTORIOUS for oil sludging!) and have had no issues whatsoever using Mobil 1 FS European Blend full synthetic 0-40. I change the oil at 5-6000 mile intervals, and it might use half a quart over that span.
@@marcalin8950 Where you live is the biggest factor. if you're in the UK (or other similar temperate climate) then 5w30 is normal for all year round use.
This was awesome Cyd, just did my first DIY oil change and this video made it a breeze! It was really, really helpful. I have a rather steady coolant leak from the bottom of my rad so I think this might be a good time for you to change out yours (while filming) as a preventative maintenance thing. Before it gets too cold in England...
Why not use the old P38 trick? If it's only a very small weep mix up a golf ball size amount of body filler and squeeze it into the rad around the leak. I once ran a car for 4 years like that. We used to carry a tub in the rally car too in case the rad got damaged mid stage.
@@CycloneCyd 4 years? That's pretty impressive! I live in Nova Scotia where rust is so problematic it seemed wise to replace it and I feel more comfortable with that, but thanks for the tip. I love your channel Cyd!
I flush at every oil change. I use proper flush oil (like this amzn.to/2EIS83Z and flush with half the tub and save the other half tub for the next change. At every third change, I flush twice with half a tub at a time. Thus I use two tubs per 3 oil changes. I recently had the cam cover off and it is clean clean clean in there, you eat your dinner off it (145,000 miles at the time). I then pour a little oil through the filter housing and cam cover after the flush. I do oil changes at around 5-7k mile intervals, or 4 months now I'm retired. I didn't include it in the video because of the video length and also I didn't want the hate from all the armchair engineers who say it's harmful. The product above is Comma Flush Out, Comma do a cheaper one called X-Flow Flush Out - don't use that, it's mineral oil based not synthetic. Obviously use whatever you have available in your market. Let us know what you do and how you get on, Mats, 👍 I might do a flushing video, if you have any views on the subject, please let me know.
Been doing this for over 40 years in different engines (mopeds, motorcycles, cars, marine engines, etc). Some 15 years ago I started sucking out the oil instead with a special pump designed for that and it is much easier and funny.
Hey Cyd, great video as always! I have kind of daunting request. I think I'm going to be needing to replace my left front door locking mechanism and I honestly can't find a video on here of someone showing how to take it out with the kind of good explanation and visuals you always provide. I know it means taking the door panel off and peeling back the sound dampening layer, but if you'd be willing to put a video together explaining the steps on how to remove it so as to replace it and then how to get it all back together in the correct sequence, I would absolutely appreciate it!!! I hope all is well with you!
Cyclone Cyd I haven't actually. I live in the states where it gets very cold in the winter and it seems to only stop working when it's very cold and then once it warms back up it starts working again. I was going to have it replaced this last winter, but I never got around to it and then it started working again. I think it's ultimately still on the list of things to do so if you were able to do a video on it, I'd still really really appreciate it! But there's absolutely no hurry on it at all. Thanks for all of your great videos Cyd!
@@CycloneCyd the one I had in when in and out no problems,new one I got from neo brothers will not fit,the inside if you look ,the plastic fixing inside much higher then old one,neo brothers swear blind the one they sent correct,old filter about 80 mm new one 90 mm
@@tigertruckerman Oh dear, that doesn't sound good. I've no idea which filters Neo sell, I don't buy from them. I thoroughly recommend Mann filters (here's the 9-3 one: amzn.to/2IXNt0i) - and don't waste your money on a K&N one - it's a Mann in a different box!! honest
Yeah, I love it. It's an Aero Anniversary in 304 Ice Blue. I've had it 9 years now. I bought it at 3yrs/42,000miles. It's 12 years old this month and just turned 143,000. First car I've ever done 100,000 miles in (I came close with my Rover 800 Vitesse Sport at 98,000). Do you have an Anniversary?
Some might but not me. I do a flush with every oil change. Sometimes a double flush. Well worth it on these engines as the drain from cam chamber over cam chain is small and easily sludges up starving the chain of oil ........ and you know the rest
And I see you're talking bollocks. I change the oil every 5k miles with a flush. You can still see the honing marks in the cylinders at 150k miles. Oil is *_supposed_* to come out dirty anyway. this shows it's picking up the dirt particles from inside the engine and flushing them away. If oil comes out of your engine relatively clean, THEN you should worry.
👉 Time For Service Saab 9-3 Reset '07on: th-cam.com/video/mORIbqE6mp0/w-d-xo.html
Great video Cyd, very helpful!
I especially liked the tip to pour some oil through the motor, as a last flush, prior to re-installing the sump plug and your advice to go and put the kettle on and make a cup of tea while the last remnants of oil drip out.
Outstanding!
Yeah, this is one of those small details that make a home oil change superior to a garage change. Ramp time is what you're paying for and to maximise ROI the garage wants your car off the ramp asap. You can bet they put the plug back in before the flow has even reduced to a drip.
Thank you for such clear videos of how to do it on a Saab, greatly appreciated, from a grumpy old sod who doesnt do reviews normally but has bought a longed hankered after saab (ended up with a 2005 1.8t Vector auto convertable} in retirement. Lots of most enjoyable tinkering going on lol. Lovely drive. Thank you again Cyd
Glad to help!
Thanks Cyd, from Sydney, Australia. Bought a 2006 Saab Linear 9-3 covertable for my 20 yearl old daughter. She paid for it. 1.8 turbo,
just bought a 93 2.0t manual need an oil change soon, very useful
Thanks for this, I just bought my 93 a few days ago and an oil change is the first job.
Thank you for your videos on the Saab. If you still have the car I would love to see a coolant, flush and replace video.
Coming soon! I'm going to be having the head replaced, so will do one after that. later in the year hopefully.
I'm here because I just had my Saab 1.9 9-3 TiD serviced at Halfrauds. I need to check they've actually changed the filter, as my gut is telling me not to trust them.
@3:00 to 4:00 Useful information. Never did that... Til NOW. THANKS.
Glad it was helpful! My Grandad taught me that 45 years ago!! 👍🎓
I tried. I tried and tried. Everything was going perfectly, until I tried to get the drain plug out of the oil pan. Whomever the lunatic was who did it last, they must've torqued it down with their dying breath. Aside from the fact that it is at the back end of the engine, about 20 feet from the front bumper, even on ramps and then jacked up with a floor jack, I couldn't get enough leverage on it. I was afraid of stripping it, as I had one slip off. So, I borrowed my friend's impact air wrench. No good. Finally gave up and took it to a oil change shop, where I helped them make their boat payments for the month. I'll try again next time, maybe they loosened that drain enough for a human to remove it. Great video, (as are all of your Saab videos) regardless.
I have the exact same experience with a Volvo S60. I tried to loosen that drain but all I could achieve to slip the wrench and almost broke my finger on the asphalt 😂
You could always use a extension to take the pressure you put when trying to remove the bolt off .
Example: I use my ratchet and the I use my 3 ton jack handle (the top part which is probably 2 to 3 ft long ) as an extension and it will help take really tight bolts off with out a crazy amount of pressure. I use this method alot 😅 even when the lug nuts are torque to tight I apply some wd40 and let it sit for 5 minutes then get to work
Thanks, Cyd. I liked your tip for flushing some extra oil through after the draining. No jack, too I noticed.
Very helpfull video, however, if you're doing this yourself and the the extra time it takes to let the old oil flush out the engine, why start it up straight away and let it 'top end rattle' as you mentioned in the video. I'm sorry if its a dumb question, just was wondering if it'd be better to just let it sit a while before starting?
I have some leftover opened synthetic that I worry has gotten a bit old using it to flush out the old oil a bit seems like a good use!
It was simply professionel!!! Thank you!!!
You're welcome!
great video bro!! direct to the point no bs very informative!!!
Thanks CC, another useful video, I see you've upped your production values, nice graphics.
Thanks JB. Yes, I have. I'm a great believer in pictures speaking a thousand words and now I've upgraded my laptop and hence my editing software, I've been able to incorporate graphics. I've got one coming up where I'm even gonna try video-in-video. I hope I'm managing to make the graphics relevant so they reinforce the narritive (along with the odd prompt for sharing/liking and subbing). It's good to know it's been noticed and is a positive thing.
What interval do you change the oil? I'm asking about your preference rather than the Saab recommended interval. Cheers! Another very useful, straightforward video!
I agree with Honest John. You should change oil and filter at least every 5-7,000 miles OR twice a year.
This will help to keep sludge and varnish at bay. If your mileage is typically short journeys, use a flush every other change.
Thanks for the precise videos of how to do it on a Saab,much appreciated, !
Brilliant, that's exactly what I needed
Thank you, Gary. Any aspect you found particularly useful?
@@CycloneCyd Thanks Cyd. The location and construction of the oil filter. I'd previously changed the oil and looked for it from under the car and ended up not changing the filter because I couldn't find it. I was delighted to see how accessible and easy it was.
Can you take out the oil filter first to get the oil into the pan? i'm using an oil extractor and need everything in the pan first..
YES. _ (gosh, if only they were all that easy to answer, lol)_
Thank you Cyd!, very clear and helpfull video. One question: if you crank up trhe front of the car is that a problem for the oil drainage? Does it still completely drain the oil from the motor in this position? Thanks again Hugo
I also was wondering about this- the front end of my 2008 is terribly low to the ground and about the only way I'll have to do this is jack it up several inches. I suppose one could raise it to get access, remove the plug, and then lower it to drain ((of course, re-lifting it to reinstall the plug before adding new oil!))
Hi from Tunis Tunisia , thank you very much for this demonstrative video and your valuable advice .🙏
I found this video very helpful and useful.
Hi, great video. Have you ever used one of those oil vacuum extractors to change the oil? I have noticed that a few mechanics use them. I would be interested in your thoughts as I would be interested in getting one.
Thanks for the excellent video. My Saab’s oil filter cap doesn’t seem to allow the oil filter to move up and down ( as in on a spring ) when I install it to the cap. Does this mean it needs replacing? What damage could it cause?
Something very strange here. My 2005 9-3 Aero lists 6 litres for an oil and filter change in the handbook. So does every other reference online.
I’ve completed 4 oil and filter changes within the last 2000 miles as I’m a little fussy. Every single time anything more than 5.5 litres ends up in overfill.
The last change was this week. Again, we removed the oil cap, dipstick, pulled the oil filter out and then lifted car. We then let it drain for about 30 mins when there wasn’t even a drop coming out. We refilled with 5.8 litres of Shell Helix 5W40 as I thought I’d try 200ml less than the book. Same issue again; overfilled, potentially 5/6mm above the max mark on a cold engine!!
It’s doing my head in. How can the manufacturer and every other source be so wrong?? We should be under the max as we’ve essentially underfilled, not over!!!
The only time I managed to get it exact was with around 5.3 litres which just doesn’t make sense.
And yes, I know my cars and have a very competent mechanic/garage who has looked after everything of mine since 2002 including all my BMW’s, Fiats, Alfas, Mercs etc.
Mind boggling.
Hold up! "above the max mark on a cold engine!!" - are you measuring the sump level on the dipstick BEFORE running the engine after the change?
Also, you shouldn't be measuring the level on a cold engine. On a warm engine, 10 minutes after turning off.
@@CycloneCyd to clarify, I always leave the vehicle overnight on a dead even surface. The following morning after about 20 miles or so getting back to my house after the service it reads over the max. I’ve always checked a cold engine, and I’m sure the Saab owners manual suggests the same!
@@rezaq1 According to saab, you should measure the level with a warm engine after it has stood 3-5 minutes after driving. This says my owners manual and I have a saab 9-3 from 2007
I got a Saab 9-5 linear 2.2l diesel and I got a Mann filter it shows as top seller and was most expensive so I got it but it’s not a snugg fit it feels lose/ to much play then the one I had in already anything I should know ?
Hi, is this throthle oem hose with heat bandage or is it a steel pipe? Did you noticed a temeprature diference?
Yes, OE hose with heat bandage. Yes, helps to keep IAT down (about 1C).
I love your channel man
Fantastic videos!
How about changing gear oil on a manual Saab -07 ? How do you do it and what is there to be caucus about?
Great suggestion! It's added to the list.
Great videos,
When might you be doing a video on repairing the rust on the Saab?
Not sure yet. I had planned it for this summer, but things were thrown into disaray by worldwide events. Plus there was some demand for the headlight rebuild series.
Hi Cyd, I was just wondering, why your saab had some sort of lagging around the certain pipe in your engine bay?
As always, brilliant ,very clear video!!
Daniel
Hi Daniel, it's to keep intake air cool. The pipes I've insulated (with exhaust wrap) are ones that get warm during use and so are warming the air passing through them. amzn.to/37BXD0S
Cyd riddle me this, did you buy another engine oil cap because you lost the original one or because it didn't fit flush? I notice at the start of the video your engine oil cap is yellow but at the end of the video you switched it for a black engine oil cap.
Thanks! Great video, clear and concise.
Hi there do you know how to remove the petrol pipe of the petrol pump to replace the petrol pump on a 2009 c1
Darren
see my other answer
Great video and explanation
Hi, I have watched many of your videos, sorry I don’t always comment, they are great. NEED HELP!!! Changed my oil many times, and never had this problem, maybe a cheap filter messed me up, but when I went to replace a new filter, I forgot to lubricate the O ring, and decided to unscrew the oil cap off with the new filter, and I had only screwed it, about 2/3’s of the way, and the oil filter never came out! What have I done?? Should I buy a new oil filter cap and try to tighten it down and try to get it out that way? I’m thinking the oil filter cap is shot, and I should have replaced it before this problem. Appreciate any advice!!!!
The oil filter is practically stuck in the oil filter housing, and didn’t come off with oil filter cap, any thoughts?? Thank you.
You're probably right. Pull the old filter out with plyers. Sometimes mine comes out with the cap and sometimes not. I recommend Mann filters.
@@CycloneCyd thanks for the response, an update, I pulled the oil filter out with no problems, just required some hand strength, and a little research to make sure I wouldn’t damage anything. The oil filter cap was the original with the car, 118k miles and 13 years later, worth replacing at the low cost. The mechanism that holds the filter is much stronger on my new cap. And also one of my threads on the cap was a little sketchy, so good to have a nice new threading. No problems thus far, but worried me when it happened!
@@BHP_farm interesting to hear about the new cap having a stronger grip. I'm still on my original.
Glad you got sorted though
Awesome video would recommend oil flush 🧐 ?
Yes, definitely. I've been flushing mine every change for the last 120,000 miles and had the cam cover off recently - clean enough to eat your dinner off.
@@CycloneCyd ok great what engine flush would you recommend 🧐
Can you point me in the right direction to remove the internal cup holder under the radio in my saab 93 aero? I can find a vid anywhere, got my vent and radio out but stuck atm cheers BTW your channel is incredible for a fella like me
Yes I can, but I missed your request. Have you done it already??
Ha yeah cheers bloody fiddly
Very informative and now with your advice I can go change the oil on the wife's saab..
Thank you
Great video mate 👍🏻
Hey Cyd, I have a question about the drain plug. How far back is it located on the car? I'm having trouble finding mine to do the oil change on my car. This is a great video that is teaching me to change the oil on my own, which I love
Can u make a video about how do the service on ur Saab? Thanks
th-cam.com/play/PLOaePmzqZNJ3hR7nwuihmBx6_HaUfy-i3.html
What's missing?
THANK YOU VERY USEFULL GREETINGS FROM SWEDEN
You are welcome!
On my Saab 9-3 04 the oil filter cap was very difficult to reach. I had to resort to using a pair of pliers to slowly unscrew it. Just got the car recently I'll need to figure something better out for my next oil change.
Take the front plastic cover off.
Did you leave the engine cover on?
It's been a very helpful video indeed.I have a question for you. I own 9-3 1.8t B207 engine. If i clean the throttle body and put it back do i need to reset it via tech 2 ?
No. You don't need to remove it to clean it th-cam.com/video/qn5nT5jJtNA/w-d-xo.html
@@CycloneCyd You are a life saver . Thanks very much.
Thanx Cyd . U are wonderful guy..
I noticed your engine shook a lot when you started. Are your engine mounts going bad or is that just how it is for this car? I recently got a 2004 9-3 Arc convertible and I'm just trying to learn about the vehicles.
th-cam.com/video/rqOilw1q_Ag/w-d-xo.html
@@CycloneCyd but I got a 2004...
What oil you recommend for 9-3 b207l 2004 with stage 1 maptun?
well shit, i put the filter in and then skrewed the top on again. Maybe i need to remove it and check it. what u think?
Thanks you Monsieur very good 👍
You are welcome Fabien.
Is this the same procedure for a Diesel engine? 👍
Overall, yes. There will be detail differences like the the filter position etc. IIRC I think there's an undertray on the diesel too.
Can you still do this on the z19dth engines as my turbo needs replacing an I’m thinking of doing a service at the same time
Blast!! i didn't see your request. I don't have ready access to a diesel, but I do now know someone with one, so I'll see if I can 'borrow' it sometime. I'm guessing you got it done okay though??
Cyclone Cyd ah don’t worry about it bud I ain’t got the Saab anymore engine went up in flames
How many times have you changed your oil ? 15.000 km ? Thanks
Me, every 5-7,000 miles or twice a year.
Hi Cyd, Great video as usual. Wondering if one is meant to replace Sump plug washer/O-ring when doing oil change? Is there a specific part number? Many thanks. P
Hi, I've the same 9-3 from Switzerland. What about the Viscosity? 5w-30? 0w-40? I really don't care about the price, more about doing the best for my new car! What do you think? Thanks!
Thanks and Highly appreciated .... It helps a lot
Which kind of oil did you use? 0W-30? 5W-30?
You're amazing
Thanks JT, much appreciated.
Hi cyd
About to do my first oil change on Saab aero 2004, plus brake fluid flush. What oil would you recommend? I’m in Hertfordshire. Do about 6000 mls p/a.
Ps. Hope you enjoyed the coffee I bought you. Well deserved!
Thanks Daren, yes a lovely Columbian Latte. I use Shell Helix Pro AG 5w30. My B207 really likes it. I've tried a few and this is defo one of the best. Usually a decent price at ECP or sometimes get it off Amazon.
I'm gonna give some Mannol a try soon - it has a good rep on the Continent. I'll report back later in the year in the community section.
Mann are the best filters. About 6.70 on eBay from a place in Chester ATM
Thanks so much for taking the time to reply. All your videos are really helpful and I’m now quite often tinkering with small jobs on the car, and saving a fortune doing jobs myself because of you. I’m about to cover pipes with exhaust insulating tape like yours plus I’ll be doing blue silicone pipes too. Also the T coolent connector. If you get time , where could I purchase the big blue one that goes towards the air filter?
Best wishes again.
Daren
Thanks a lot. Hope u are at good health. Greetings to you from Berlin. See ya!
Hi Vask, and you. Stay safe.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
But did you lift the car or are you able to get under there without lift?
Not a chance of getting under one of these Saabs without lifting it, lol! I use a pair of caravan ramps for simple jobs like oil changes. Exactly the same as these but yellow s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_olXhx0r
Good to watch. Thanks. : )
thank you very very much, a nice and video love the step by step information. Good job =)
Thank you, Lotta, I'm glad you found it useful. Did you find any particular aspect of the video especially useful?
Why didn't you use 0W-40?
You could if you want. The factory fill is Mobil 1 0W40, but M1 is almost a 5W30 anyway. I'd only use a 40 weight in a hotter climate TBH (southern States, European Med coast etc)
Love the colour on your car! I have the same on my 9-3 SC 2007 1.9TiD and also on my 9-5 SC 2007 2.3t BP :)
304, Ice Blue. Yeah I love it. When I was buying it (8 years ago) I found 89 Aeros across the UK. After eliminating all the grey, silver and black ones, I was left with a choice of 3 (three) in red metallic (too similar to the Nightfire 800 I was replacing), a white one (too much like a cop car) or this one. It was in great condition at a good price and was made extra special being an Anniversary edition. Personally I think the 2007 model year is the pick of the bunch - 'old' shape outside, facelift interior with much improved electonics.
Yours must be Anniversarys too if they are 2007MY and Ice Blue?
Have you looked through my other Saab videos?
Yes both of my cars are A60’s. The 9-3 has leather seats with grey inserts and the 9-5 has leather seats with blue inserts (both black leather) I also have the A60 wheels on both cars for summer (there are diffrent ones to 9-3 and 9-5) I Will check out more of your videos from now on :) Cheers
@@Thoorwald88 Mine has the same seats with the grey inserts and SAAB embossed in the upper squab. Blue inserts sounds cool, I've thought about getting some leather paint and doing that. I've repainted my Anniversary alloys anthracite grey. I did have them black for a while, but went off it, the wheels sort-of became invisible in the arches. I've also colour coded the front end and will work my way round. Can't attach photos to comments, so I'll put a photo in my community tab for you.
Great video. Thanks so much.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for sharing!!
hello bro I have a 2005 model b207r aero vehicle 300.000km, I used 0w40 oil. It lost 1 liter of oil in 3000 kilometers. Which oil would you recommend for my vehicle? mobil1 dexos2 5w30 or mobil1 esp 5w50?
For what it's worth, I've owned a 2001 1.8t Passat (now 180,000 miles on odometer) for over 6 years, (a car NOTORIOUS for oil sludging!) and have had no issues whatsoever using Mobil 1 FS European Blend full synthetic 0-40. I change the oil at 5-6000 mile intervals, and it might use half a quart over that span.
is that the B207E? or L or R?
Mine is B207R, but this proceedure is the same for E, L & R as they are physically the same engines, just in different states of tune
@@CycloneCyd I want to change the oil too but I don't know which is better. 5w30 or 0w40 ? I have the B207L 175hp one.
@@marcalin8950 Where you live is the biggest factor. if you're in the UK (or other similar temperate climate) then 5w30 is normal for all year round use.
@@CycloneCyd I'm from Romania :) The climate is a temperate continental. So should I go with the 5w30?
This was awesome Cyd, just did my first DIY oil change and this video made it a breeze! It was really, really helpful. I have a rather steady coolant leak from the bottom of my rad so I think this might be a good time for you to change out yours (while filming) as a preventative maintenance thing. Before it gets too cold in England...
Why not use the old P38 trick? If it's only a very small weep mix up a golf ball size amount of body filler and squeeze it into the rad around the leak. I once ran a car for 4 years like that. We used to carry a tub in the rally car too in case the rad got damaged mid stage.
@@CycloneCyd 4 years? That's pretty impressive! I live in Nova Scotia where rust is so problematic it seemed wise to replace it and I feel more comfortable with that, but thanks for the tip. I love your channel Cyd!
@@General_Crock as time went by I just forgot about it. I think that was exceptional tbh. But it can work well as a temporary measure
Thank you From morroco
Hi Babi, welcome aboard.
good presentation. well done!
Thanks!
Should the engine not be flushed with some chemicals?
I flush at every oil change. I use proper flush oil (like this amzn.to/2EIS83Z and flush with half the tub and save the other half tub for the next change. At every third change, I flush twice with half a tub at a time. Thus I use two tubs per 3 oil changes. I recently had the cam cover off and it is clean clean clean in there, you eat your dinner off it (145,000 miles at the time). I then pour a little oil through the filter housing and cam cover after the flush.
I do oil changes at around 5-7k mile intervals, or 4 months now I'm retired.
I didn't include it in the video because of the video length and also I didn't want the hate from all the armchair engineers who say it's harmful.
The product above is Comma Flush Out, Comma do a cheaper one called X-Flow Flush Out - don't use that, it's mineral oil based not synthetic. Obviously use whatever you have available in your market.
Let us know what you do and how you get on, Mats, 👍
I might do a flushing video, if you have any views on the subject, please let me know.
Been doing this for over 40 years in different engines (mopeds, motorcycles, cars, marine engines, etc). Some 15 years ago I started sucking out the oil instead with a special pump designed for that and it is much easier and funny.
Some cars don't have sump plugs anymore and this is the only way it can be done!!
Thank you:)
Hey Cyd, great video as always! I have kind of daunting request. I think I'm going to be needing to replace my left front door locking mechanism and I honestly can't find a video on here of someone showing how to take it out with the kind of good explanation and visuals you always provide. I know it means taking the door panel off and peeling back the sound dampening layer, but if you'd be willing to put a video together explaining the steps on how to remove it so as to replace it and then how to get it all back together in the correct sequence, I would absolutely appreciate it!!! I hope all is well with you!
ah, phooey!! Sorry Adam, but I missed your request. It is something I'm planning now, but I guess it's too late for you. Have you done it now??
Cyclone Cyd I haven't actually. I live in the states where it gets very cold in the winter and it seems to only stop working when it's very cold and then once it warms back up it starts working again. I was going to have it replaced this last winter, but I never got around to it and then it started working again. I think it's ultimately still on the list of things to do so if you were able to do a video on it, I'd still really really appreciate it! But there's absolutely no hurry on it at all. Thanks for all of your great videos Cyd!
I couldn’t get my oil open from the bottom
Thank you for video.Very helpfull!
You're welcome
Yeah I'm having hell of a job, getting right filter,wish I had not bother d
Where in the world are you? Maybe this will help bit.ly/Oil_Filter_B207
@@CycloneCyd the one I had in when in and out no problems,new one I got from neo brothers will not fit,the inside if you look ,the plastic fixing inside much higher then old one,neo brothers swear blind the one they sent correct,old filter about 80 mm new one 90 mm
@@tigertruckerman Oh dear, that doesn't sound good. I've no idea which filters Neo sell, I don't buy from them. I thoroughly recommend Mann filters (here's the 9-3 one: amzn.to/2IXNt0i) - and don't waste your money on a K&N one - it's a Mann in a different box!! honest
@@CycloneCyd thank you the one I had from neo brothers was called some thing like hegsta?
@@CycloneCyd just ordered it, let's see,thanks for help
Awesome👍👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
very helpful
Cheers Marc, welcome aboard
@@CycloneCyd cyclone cyd could you email please at dadjmanix@yahoo.co.uk many thanks
nice anniversary
Yeah, I love it. It's an Aero Anniversary in 304 Ice Blue. I've had it 9 years now. I bought it at 3yrs/42,000miles. It's 12 years old this month and just turned 143,000. First car I've ever done 100,000 miles in (I came close with my Rover 800 Vitesse Sport at 98,000). Do you have an Anniversary?
Cyclone Cyd Yes I have a convertible:
th-cam.com/video/B8WKyuDPAAo/w-d-xo.html
They filmed my car. The 60 years anniversary are beautifull cars
I always fill the oil filter with oil
Very useful 👍 might do my Aero convertible 2.0 as change every 5k
Oh yes. 5-7k changes are essential for long life on the B207. The oil drain over the cam chain sludges up otherwise
@@CycloneCyd 5-7k KM or Miles? :)
@@Vik1Sev 5-7k miles.
Thanks..
15mm socket, 32mm socket . Båda 25Nm
👍
In my b205 engine, after I drain the oil I like to pour 4 liters of diesel without starting the car. You'll be suprised how black it comes out.
Some might but not me. I do a flush with every oil change. Sometimes a double flush. Well worth it on these engines as the drain from cam chamber over cam chain is small and easily sludges up starving the chain of oil ........ and you know the rest
Cheers
You're welcome, 🍻
I see your old oil is filthy, over used and shows you do not maintain your car properly.
And I see you're talking bollocks. I change the oil every 5k miles with a flush. You can still see the honing marks in the cylinders at 150k miles.
Oil is *_supposed_* to come out dirty anyway. this shows it's picking up the dirt particles from inside the engine and flushing them away. If oil comes out of your engine relatively clean, THEN you should worry.