WHAT ARE CHYPRE FRAGRANCES? | WHAT IS OAKMOSS? | WHAT IS IFRA? | WHAT DO CHYPRES SMELL LIKE?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- What Are Chypre Fragrances? What Is Oakmoss? What Is IFRA? What Do Chypre Fragrances Smell Like?
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What Are Chypre Fragrances? What Is Oakmoss? What Is IFRA? What Do Chypre Fragrances Smell Like?
The above questions are all answered in today's video with the one and only Dana of a Nose Knows. Main Notes in Chypres: Bergamot, Oakmoss, Cistus-Labdanum (Rock Rose), sometimes Patchouli and Rose. Are you a fan of the Chypre genre of fragrances, and perfumes? What are your favorite Chypre Fragrances? Did you learn anything new today about Chypre Fragrances, Oakmoss, about IFRA? Please let me know, add a comment below so that I can find out.
Topics and Questions Raised In This Video:
-Where does the word come Chypre come from?
-How do you pronounce Chypre?
-Most people think Chypres are named after the Cypress tree but it’s named after the country and island of Cyprus.
-Styles Of Chypres as in do Chypres go into different directions? Some more floral? Could some be woodier? Fruity Chypre, Chypre Leather, Green Chypre, Floral Chypre, Woody Chypre?
-Are Chypres out of style because of the banning of Oakmoss by IFRA?
-What Is IFRA?
-What are the most popular classic Chypres?
-What are the most popular modern Chypres?
Fragrances Discussed In This Video
GUERLAIN - CHYPRE DU PARIS
COTY - CHYPRE
COTY - EMERAUDE
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CHANEL - POUS MONSIEUR
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CHANEL - ANTAEUS
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YSL - POUR HOMME
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EMANUEL UNGARO - DIVA
➡️ Buy Diva: bit.ly/3IASOXw at a Discount
FENDI - FENDI
GIORGIO ARMANI - ARMANI
GIANFRANCO FERRE - GIANFRANCO FERRE
LANCOME - MAGIE NOIRE
MDCI - CHYPRE PALATIN
ORIZA L. LEGRAND - CHYPRE MOUSSE
BOGUE PROFUMO
PARFUMS DUSITA - LE SILLAGE BLANC
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MASQUE MILANO - KINTSUGI
ROGUE PERFUMERY - CHYPRE SIAM
As always please watch, rate, comment and share this video and please subscribe to my channel goo.gl/xWnYzi if you haven't yet. And please stay tuned for more videos and giveaways real soon! - The views and opinions for Chypre Fragrances, Oakmoss and IFRA are all my own. If you're curious to try the Chypre Fragrances discussed in this video please buy or obtain samples or decants prior to purchasing a full bottle. The fragrances I like you might not like and vice versa. So I cannot guarantee you will react to the fragrance as I have in this video. Thank you.
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#ThePerfumeGuy #Oakmoss #Chypre
• WHAT ARE CHYPRE FRAGRA...
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Dana is my new favourite. More with her please
Sebastian - Thank you for introducing me to Dana! I love your content and collaborations. Please keep them coming ❤️
Let's talk about Fig!!
Could you both review and old classic...Joy by Jean Patou
mejor me me me me metí a a a las las las las clases clases y de de dónde viene viene la la la universidad a las las las dos queque dóndedónde o o no no no no se se puede sabérselas
YES! YES! YES! This is like Netflix for fragrances! 😁😁
Totally!
@@huimo4886 why, thank you, folks :)
You are so right!!!
Yes!
😂😂
I really like Dana. She's a fountain of knowledge. These series are explosive. They make this channel very unique although it is already an excellent one. The people demand more!
Ikramuddin Zwane 🙏🏼 much appreciated
I second that, she makes the show so much fun and informative!
It’s sad her videos have so few views
@@STandM3 Yeah.
@@nickstephenlim3882 Their loss, our gain.
Wow Dana has such a wealth of knowledge! I feel like I just sat through a free master class.
Please do:
- Vetiver
- Citrus (neroli, oranges, bergamot, etc.)
- Synthetic molecules (ISO E Super, Musks, Ambroxan)
- Flowers
Would love to see those, it's hard to find the knowledge.
Is neroli a citrus? I thought it's a green herb.
@@GishStyle It is the flower of the orange tree. It has a citrus profile I think, but fits mostly into the white flower category
Se Não Mata Fere Alright thank you.
Especially vetiver. I cannot get enough.
@@GishStyle 3 seconds on google dude, how lazy are you
She is a true perfume Goddess❤️❤️❤️
Vladimir Tanascuk not particularly that day, but yes, there’ve been moments 😁😎
I have been an upper end floral designer for a million yrs and back in the day we had a guy who would bring in oak moss on branches for us to use in arrangements...the scent of the moss on the branches was amazing and kind of a soft dry green sweetness...You can still see oak moss on branches if you venture into forests and smell it for youself if you want to get an idea of how it actually smells..a great scent.
Awwww I love it when Dana gets excited and explodes, even if it is loud. She's so genuine.
Dana is awesome, and really unafraid to 'go there'. Great video, and really insightful about not only oak moss and chypre perfume as a style/construction but also on IFRA and why there is much clamor in the community against their regulations and supposedly 'scientific' studies. Now I need to go watch all the previous videos with Dana. Thanks to you both!
JL W you’re right about that. Then again, I don’t make any money out of this, have no gain from my content (all my channels are ad-free), so no income to lose. Also, I’m not trying to ditch anyone or anything- IFRA has its purpose, even though I may contest its methods.
A frag heads dream come through when we need all the content possible right now 😂
Thank you and dana for taking the time to do this.
why, you welcome. Tell others.
Dana is so intelligent. I want to be like her when I get older.
oh, no, dear, you really don't :)
@@anoseknows She knows her stuff.
@@qaidikramuddin "A nose knows" is Dana, you know that , right ;)
She is Romanian , that's why!!!!
I could spend hours in conversation with Dana. She's the real deal!
JJColb yeah, there have been cases... most of my long term friendships started with white nights full of words :)
Amazing content. I'd give it two thumbs up if TH-cam permitted. Hope to see more such videos with Dana on your channel. I'd love to learn more about musk. Thank you, both!
fankyuuuu
Arabs parfumers had shops and manufactures of frangrances in Chypre and they had the manopole for many years of raw materials like resins spices... Etc and Europeans during the middle age especially from Venise used to buy primary products from arab commercials in this beautiful island....there's a beautiful book of Elizabeth de Feydeau "la grande histoire du Parfum" édition Larousse which is very interesting.
Thanks a lot for this video I learn many things from you and is a joyful time for me.
I was wondering when I'd see Dana back...she's one of a kind
The Scentrovert strictly-speaking, we all are, dear :)
@@anoseknows Yes, yes...however I'm confident in saying that any man with discerning taste would recognize that YOU are a woman with a different kind of aura.
This is way off topic... Just had to say: *THANK YOU FOR PUTTING ME ON TO JAVOY!!*
I received samples of Private Label, Psychedelique, and Incident Diplomatique yesterday. And bought ALL THREE bottles today! WOW! They're amazing! And they're not $500 per 50ml like some of my bottles lately, they priced very well! 👍👍
Great video, great information 🙏 I have always suspected IFRA had had been infiltrated by chemical company or vice versa people within IFRA have vested interest in these aroma chemical manufacturers.
I think it's natural they work together, but how and why and whether are questions none of us outside of the industry can answer 100% accurately and in a fully contextual, objective way.
Kind of like how certain pharma own seeds..I can’t find the article but I know this for a fact.
Dana OMG I love her, and how she speaks so fast when she is excited xD.. And I love this kind of informative vids. Thank you both
Lol. That I do :)
I would bathe in 100% pure oak moss extract if I could. I smelled the real thing years ago and immediately fell in love with it - my very favorite fragrance note. (My vote for the next video is definitely Vetiver - yum yum. 😋)
Stephen Pruszenski you and me both :)
And me!
😂😂😂 Dana. Awesome. Daily brain stimulation = achieved. No mention of other forms of stimulation. Promise. Gotta examine those interests though. That's absolutely where the regs come from. And yeah, don't regulate peanuts!!!! Free the nuts!!! Ooops, that's right, I promised... 🤦🏽♂️ oPiNiOnS!!!
Just Add Light LOL
School is in session. Dana is a gem.
D Jones lol bling I am
This is block buster stuff. Great job Sebastian and your guest. Whoa whoa whoa
Seun Bejide thanksmuch
When I developed an interest in perfumes, this was one of my favourite TH-cam channels from the start, and still is. I really like Sebastian’s approach to reviewing, the tone and the form of these videos. Also, several interesting collaborations and guest reviewers. However, I must say, Dana is in a category of her own. Both her knowledge and personality bring so much value to an already excellent concept. Thank you to the both of you for your truly informative, nerdy and highly entertaining joint videos - I hope there will be many more of them!
I think that "animalic" gets used to describe ....."strong" "pungent" . I have read MANY reviews where people have written about scents being to strong...too masculine......too pungent.....too bitter......and then the word "animalic" pops up !!!!! BTW.....I adore chypres !!! I hope they are making a major return to perfumery !!!! Love your videos and guests !!! Thank you !!!!!
OMG I have one of those bottles of Magie Noir perfume oil! Still amazing after all these years, absolutely!
This is a nice break from the doom and gloom out there.
Obviously she's excited--I can't believe I just heard what she said!
@@edgy8481 oh, believe it, LOL
Out where?
Love these videos!! I've been into Chypre fragrances since I was 12. The first I fell in love with was Cachet. lol
Cool! I used to wear Cachet too and didn't know till now it was a chypre!
Ugh, Cachet was gorgeous 😩 This comment just took me back to when I was about 10/11 and my mum used to wear this. She let me have 2 sprays one Christmas and I was over the moon. She was heartbroken and done with women's fragrances when it was discontinued.
Watching this, I forgot I made myself a cup of tea! Loved every second of it ! Vetiver us next , please :)
What a monster. One of the most informative videos in the fragrance community I have seen so far. Dana brings a sophisticated background note (great performance) to your content, everyone interested in the world of scents doesn't want to miss in the future. After that you deserve my followership.
Much appreciated. You can find me on Insta, as well, with a slightly different approach (60second videos)
Wow always something new! Thanks for the info ☺️
Aaand she’s back 👏🏻👏🏻 super entertaining as always, thumbs up 👍🏻
recharg3 :)
This is a weird coincidence, because I was just thinking about trying green / chypre fragrances like Cristalle from Chanel or Mitsouko from Guerlain - some real classics. I couldn't watch the whole thing, but the beginning was quite entertaining. Would love to have a discussion about musk, because it is such a useless term - it refers to too many different aromachemicals nowadays.
She is back!!!! 🔥🔥🔥❤️💪
yessir
Without governing regulating bodies like IFRA, for profit industries, unfortunately, can show very little regard for the environment overtime; they are not just about skin health. So, as a perfume enthusiast AND someone who also cares for the health of our planet, I believe IFRA is a very necessary institution in our world!!
I just stumbled on this video, didn't catch it when it came out, and i'm so taken in by Dana. I could listen to her for hours. She's so knowledgeable about so many interesting facts
Love these informative videos! Dana is a gem and always wonderful. These videos make me rethink genres and elements in perfumery and make me explore instead of sticking to the fragrances and themes I’m familiar with. It gives fragrances like Mitsouko a new angle and I respect it an awful lot more.
WIll _ thank you, happy to serve
Love U Dana !
There she is the queen of fragrance notes. Hi Dayna!!!
Julie Ake I think somebody else already claimed the queen title as far as reviewers go, but I appreciate it the love :)
Wonderful presentation! Thank you and your great guest, Dana, for enlighting us for an almost unknown category of fragrances, especially for us men. I have to say that with videos like this, you help the fragrance community rise to a higher level. It's really high quality stuff. Gongratulations!
Christos Stockpicker you’re welcome, Sir
Love videos like this! MORE!! Vetiver next 👍🏼
Oh, I forgot! As a Greek guy, I have to honor my memories as a child and vote for fig leaf fragnances. Thanks again!
Great ! Il love chypre fragrances. My mum used to wear Magie Noire. For me, Gris Dior is the most modern and light way to wear chypre nowadays. You too are great ❤️
Isabelle B. Merci, cherie :)
you're adorable both! thank you!
This was brilliant! Thank you, Sebastian and Dana (nerd life!), for providing such valuable analysis and content. You better believe I took copious notes. As for future topics, I vote for vetiver, please. Laughed for real at Dalya being Dana's NEWMAN. Loved this video from start to finish!
Taffy J thank you much 🙏🏼
I had to go back and watch your other videos with Dana and Wowwwww! so much knowledge and yes she’s right with the Chypre as a kid I hate them but now that I’m in my 30s omg I can’t get enough of them 😂😂😂
Wow you two! This was fantastic! I just adore diving deep and going all nerdy about things I am passionate about!
I also enjoy long videos that are well presented and informative as with these videos with Dana!
Keep them coming! It was riveting! Thank you!
xo Lisa
No Name my pleasure, Lisa. More to come, after all will go back to normal.
Oakmoss smells wonderful. I used Sir Irisch Moos as a student which smells wonderfully green and wear it when I play my half elven character in AD&D. Sadly, the line isn't available where I am now. The green fragrances I have today doesn't do justice to the primal foresty presence that I miss.
Always amazing and super interesting videos!! Great job 👌👌👏👏 I found out so many beautiful fragrances thanks to your reviews! Have a good day!from Italy 🇮🇹 and my God Dana is everything hahaha her Faces and her knowledge in perfumes, her being WOMAN and strong!! 💯 💯 💯
Mille grazie, Roberto. Alora ci vediamo :)
I'm wearing Chypre-Siam right now. Can ya'll smell me? Don't get too close now!!! 😉 Dalya is Dana's Newman... LMAO
Estee Lauder destroyed Knowing by reformulation without any real oakmoss. It now smells like roach spray. Please, Please, Please! Make an original version for non IFRA countries like America.
Great topic video and I enjoyed it and I'm going to try these fragrances and have a blessed night
Yes!!! Chypres are literally the best, something so theraputic and magical about them. I truly enjoyed this video SOOOO much.
Brandon Fernandez happy to serve :)
Been waiting all day for this! Dana, I wanna be you when I grow up :D
There is one Chypre that I never forgot, sometimes I can almost smell it, it was a fragrance my Mother wore, that I absolutely loved as a kid, its not around any longer, it was called Ramage, it was so beautiful, I don't know if you ever heard of it. It was the fragrance that started my obsession with perfume. This was sold in the middle East, like Lebanon & Syria, but it was very french.
Did the box have two little blue birds?
Was it Clinique
Private collection, Knowing, Bandit, Gucci 3, Aromatic Elixir, Replique, Safari?, Paloma Picasso, Fendi, Ivoire,, Coriandre, #19, Cabochard, Magie Noire , all so great.
And Halston!
Fantastic video. So educative. Wierd how research fits the bill for what regulatary bodies want. Similar to in Food. Crazy isn't it. Dana's fantastic please pass that note on to her
received, thank you :)
I know I'm late to the party, but I really like these longer videos. There is so much information here! The conversational format inevitably answers many questions I've always had.
Glad you like them!
I love these vids. It's hard to pic one of the scents for your next video. Why are there politics surrounding Vetiver? That sounds intriguing. How the hell did they discover musk the first place and what are the current sources and ethics surrounding that? What could you possibly say about the fig leaf that could take up an hour? I want to know!
Coty DID NOT create Emeraude from scratch and Guerlain copied it. Emeraude is heavily derived from Jicky, but Emeraude definitely went into its own direction. Shalimar is heavily based on both. But it is true that Coty copied Guerlain and Guerlain copied Coty.
Also, look up what Thierry Wasser and Frederic Sacone did with real oakmoss and how Guerlain currently uses it in their perfumes.
“However, as Guerlain’s in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser explained to us, whenever something is removed from an ingredient through fractionation, ‘it leaves a hole’. Thierry’s stroke of genius was to plug the gap with a touch of celery seed, instead. Hey, presto: Mitsouko - probably the most famous chypre in the world still available today - is restored to its former glory. (And we just love the way that perfumers rise to challenges like this…)”
perfumesociety.org/ingredients-post/oakmoss/
... and both copied Piver and were copied by Lelong :)
Good clarification, though, I did not intend it to be a sharp cut by any means. With over an hour of rapid-fire content, I'm bound to omit stuff-- so thanks.
Didn't get to delve much into the "stripping" of oakmoss because I want to study the process a bit more closely, but I, too, am in awe of what Wasser is doing.
I’m dying to get my nose on Mitsouko!
Chypre fragrances are my absolute fav style of frag. My very first was Fendi by Fendi in the 80’s and I was 15. I bought it with my babysitting money. As I was watching this I wondered if Fendi was discontinued because of the IFRA regulations. Bastards!!! Lmao. Nevertheless, ever since I discovered Chypres I have always loved them.
@TAMMY SAME… the closest I’ve gotten is Portrait of a Lady by Frederic Malle it’s close but just not close enough.
@TAMMY I will, ABSOLUTELY! I am hunting too. Happy Holidays to you too!
Wow, you are amazing Dana (EȘTI CEA MAI TARE)😘 .I vote for musk.
yayaaa Dana is back!
Def more videos like this. Vetiver and musk.
Just to clarify, you said "no ones 'going to jail' if you dont follow ifra" but yet I thought you also said earlier it was mandatory to follow ifra in Europe (and only in Europe). I assume you're saying outside of Europe you're good, but it is illegal to sell non ifra compliant frags in Europe. Could you clarify?
Thank you as always for your wealth of knowledge. Really good stuff.
Tyler K you’re just not allowed to sell non-compliant IFRA products if you’re incorporated in Eu. You CAN sell to Europeans, IF you’re incorporated elsewhere, as far as ai know. I can look more into it.
Dana don't change, you are perfect exactly the way you are. Your delivery is wonderful. ❤️
Such great information! Thank you for sharing!
Colby Nye my pleasure
A video on MUSKS would be AMAZING!!! :-)
Ifra is part of a sickness. Compliance is the game and we all play wheter we like or not. Debolish Ifra as soon as possinle.
Dana is like an encyclopedia of fragrance and fragrance history!
The original Patou Pour Homme is heavy on oakmoss. Is it a chypre or a fougère? Will you review it?
Paracletus aaaahhhhhh, one of my faves!!! On my skin, an animalic mix- fougery in a wet winter, and more chypre-like when warm. A masterpiece if I ever saw one... holding on to my last drops in a decant :(
@@anoseknows I just got a 90 ml bottle for a small fortune. Sadly, the "vapomiseur" doesn"t work, and I haven't found a spray cap that fits the bottle. Seems wasteful to use it as a splash. But yes, it's heaven.
@@anoseknows Another killer Patou from even earlier (60s!) was Amour Amour, original, with an etched glass applicator. I gave a bottle to my girlfriend back then and I don't know which I enjoyed more; the perfume or her. About forty years later I met her again and gave her another bottle identical to the first (which I found miraculously from a vintage dealer, for about $500), but she didn't like it, said it smelled "old-lady-like" (funny, because she actually is an "old lady" now). I don't know if it spoiled or her taste simply changed, but for me it still has that Patou magic. In fact, the reason I like PPH so much is that it reminds me of Amour Amour in its original formulation. Maybe it was another Kerléo chypre. Have you tried it?
I protest, aventus is not a chypre, it smells horrible to my nose. Really love Chypre isle, Chypre Palatin, Chypre siam and always looking for more good ones
👏👏👏love story of history of Shypre
Enjoyed, very Interesting, thank you. You guys funny sometimes in a very good way
Lancom Magie Noire my Mom favorite perfume, I love it and I need to find it! Dana👏👸
Come back to watch all your videos with Dana after your Oakmoss video together today 👏
I missed these videos with Dana so much!
@Gabriela Antes Kuhn aww, you guyzzzzz :)
I like her.. her knowledge in perfume is mind blowing .. .. does she have a youtube channel??
Danny Flores yes. You can find me at A Nose Knows on YT and @a_nose_knows on Insta
Brilliant nerding out, fountain of knowledge, thanks so much to Dana for sharing! Would love Musks next. Oh, and Oud would be great...especially when it comes to attars.
My first chypre fragances is soul of the forest. So green love it!
Good review guys. Both of you have an incredible amount of knowledge. Dana you are ace and it looks like you are on a health campaign,
Wow so informative. Both of you are such a pleasure to watch with your wealth of knowledge. Keep up the excellent work. The part about oakmoss and IFRA is especially interesting. So may rumours out there so awesome to get the correct info.
Jan du Plessis I hope it’s still actual. So many things happening all over that I’m sure there’s always something to add... also, I am not in the industry, so this is as far deep as I can go with research, from afar.
French affair by ex nihilo, one of the best new versions of chypre...
Yes, Quentin Bisch is a talent indeed.
Now Dayna is Grey Flannel a Chypre for men per GQ?
Pupa (pronounced “poopa”) means booty in Polish 😅
Alicja Soboczyńska in italian means doll
Hey Dana, I love how knoledgable you are. How can I go about learning more about fragrance? I find trying to learn it from the internet is quite limited compared to how much you know. What would you recommend? Much love xx
Have you thought about doing another list of fragrances focusing on Oakmoss? Top 20?
Silk worms actually smells pretty grassy I think, they eat tons of tree leaves. I raised them for my biology project in elementary school.
S Zhang they do, and me too :)!!! They also have a milky-silky smell, to my nose 👃🏼
Dana's out here remembering the number of participants in a study that react to oak moss and the sample size of the study, impressive.
Great video. Couldn't stop watching it till the end. IFRA they are really spoiling fragrances. If something has some reaction they can easily ask the company to put up a warning. Phew... 😡
I came out of the womb a chypres lover, my absolute favorite style. Thanks for this video
Terri Campbell thank you, tell others :)
Oh yes me too ! ...love love love this type of fragrance..since my twenties.....Cristalle and No 19 Chanel which I still wear today original Miss Dior ( 1947) was my signature scent for years, ... Mitsouko , ..private collection by Estée Lauder, .... aromatics Elixir by Clinique, Rochas Femme ( amazing )Cabotine by Gres
Yep,me too!
And Halston.
Love this duo ; need another top with chipies or something together
Excellent commentary. I really enjoyed this. 😘❤️🌈
Re: peanut butter in Europe, peanut butter is a perfectly common sandwich spread in the Netherlands :-)
In fact to such an extent that a marketing motto for the most well known peanut butter manufacturer was "Who *hasn't* grown up with it?"
She said a Blah Blah Blah like hotel Transylvania, sorry I couldn’t resist.
Wayne Martin lol. I was born, like, 2h from Transylvania as the horse gallops :)
I love Dana so much, wish she would visit the channel again
Dana is amazing. Such passion and amazing intelligence!
Love my Magie Noir. So now, I will have to hunt down a vintage oil eh?
Loved it! Thanks Sebastian and Dana! Just brilliant !
Science has become so politicized that it's almost impossible to take anything that comes out as reliable.
Omg thank you! I never understood why the only smell I got from Mitsouko was ''insect'' or ''caterpillar''. This was weird to me and even weirder to tell anyone. So clearly it's some smell of oakmoss that I was getting. Very interesting video, Dana is so interesting and funy! :)
Great series! Love to see one on musks
talk about Limon Kolonyasi: Turkish Lemon Cologne for coronavirus
After this o now know what it exactly is I dont have any that I can think of In my collection i think i will buy the mosse fragrance you guys mentioned at the end
This is a wonderful video. Thank you so much for the marvelous explanation of your work. I’m very grateful to be able to watch and hear you guys talk about the deeper things in the Perfume world. You’re a wealth of information. Thanks again Andy for Berkeley
Saab Replay you’re most welcome Andy! Hope you’re safe-I’m in Oakland and lockdown is in full effect.