Very clear explanation, Roger. The only point worth adding is that these depth of field marks on the lens barrels are calculated with the final print in mind, and in these cases the print size is almost univesally assumed to be 8X10, and the viewing distance about 10" or 25 cm. If people want to print larger or are intending to put their prints up for exhibition, then a much more accurate hyperfocal distance is required. I often play with the cambridgeincolour on line calculator, and the distances for MF and LF are rather startling. PS: One of my hobbies is doing HFT competitions ( sub 12 ft.lbs air rifle ), in HFT one is not allowed to use a rangefinding scope nor use the focusing occular to obtain the target distance. One very quickly learns how to range find using the good old eyes. I am usually pretty accurate to within a meter from 1 meter to 40 meters. I guess this is an extreme way of practicing ' zone focusing ', LOL.
With autofocus these days we think it will do everything. I started on my Dad's VPK and if you could work that then depth of field scales are simple. I have taken the autofocus zoom off my D800 and found a 35 mm F2 manual lens much better. Just set the camera to aperture priority on F11 say on iso 400 and shutter speed well over the necessary minimum of 30 th sec as per rule of thumb with that focal length. Much lighter too to carry around and good for most shots.My 1.8 Nikkor manual is fun too.
For Roger, my UK Buddy, Photography by James Metcalfe A photograph is more than just A gift to bring or send. And more than just the likeness of A relative or friend. It is a kindly greeting and A memory to hold. Of happy times and pleasant things. However new or old. It is a mirror that reflects Companionship and cheer. And now and then the wistfulness That turns into a tear. A photograph is something to Adorn a desk or wall. Or carry in a pocket and Display to one and all. It is a faithful portrait The smile that friendship shares To add its sunshine and to show That someone really cares. Author: Unknown
This is extremely, practically useful to me as someone who likes to shoot film on the street. I get fed up with constantly needing to refocus and this means that I inevitably go back to my digital cameras. No longer! Thank you so much. More like this please!
I like shooting with older cameras, so I've used zone focusing quite a bit. Typically I try to use f16 or f11 so I have more room for error with focusing.
Nice clear explanation!!! I use a lot of old folders and basically zone focus for street stuff!!! Being a Yank, I am a feet person ... I just don't think metric!!!
I use this system for weddings and parties.... Include a flash and you've got a point and shoot camera that can work all day and in any dim light :-) Great vid m8 :-)
I am going to practice Zone Focusing now. I understand the basics from your teaching video. I will use my Nikon F 3 High Point camera ! Thank you again from Canada . RS.
Kudos using P3200 during the day! Its a perfect film for this application (no camera shake!) and those frames have loads of character and shadow detail.
Went out yesterday with my Mamiya 645 1000s and did some nature trail shots. First time out with it and I tried zone focusing on a lot of the shots because it was next to impossible to get a good focus with the waist finder. Keeping fingers crossed....LOL CHEERS Roger! Great video! Have a pint for me.
Yeah brilliant vlog and reiterated enough to grasp the benefits, the comment right at the end was bang on the nail, you bring that camera up and you loose the shot or worse, someone gets upset! DG
What a great video, incredibly engaging and informative … would love to see one for us digital heathens … I’ve been working on HFD and ZF but I’m all fingers and thumbs and I struggle with guessing the distance 😂- Subscribed
The problem with focus on a zone or using the hyperfocal distance is that you first have to think about what „acceptably sharp“ actually means. I usually use the scale two stops wider. So if I set the lens to f/16, I will use the focus marks for f/8.
Great explanation and examples of hyperfocus and zone focusing! I do think though that there should be some mention of the film speed. You loaded a roll of 3200 speed film which gives you a lot more opportunity for a faster shutter speed. If shooting say, 100 ISO film on an overcast day with an aperture of f11 or f16, shutter speed will be very low to get a proper exposure, resulting in blurred images from motion or camera shake. Just something to keep in mind for anyone going out to try this. Use a fast film if not shooting on a bright day!
If you asked me 10 years ago if I used zone focussing and hyper focus, I would have said no. Never heard of it. For quick shots, I relied on the depth of field, which of course depended on focal length and aperture. Good to know that when I set set my camera, I can now use the latest terminology.
I always thought of zone focusing as focusing using aperture instead of using the focusing ring. Using zone focusing with a digital camera works very well when using auto ISO.
Enjoyed the vided. I've been practicing zone focusing recently and have enjoyed it. Shot a few rolls with my TLR this weekend using zone focusing. It allowed me to just relax and hit the shutter when I thought something was in range. I don't necessarily judge my distances correctly at the moment but that's a part of the learning process.
I thought that hyperfocusing and zone focusing were the same thing! Makes sense that hyeperfocus is the most critical/sharp. Well done as always Roger!! Always looking forward to the next video :D
Great snaps and video Roger. I never use to think about things in meters until I got my Barnack with Summitar lens. I had to learn to understand distances in meters, as suppose to feet. I love zone focusing and using hyper distance scales with this camera. I think its funny when people say that using older leica's are such a slower process. I treat mine like a point and shoot, especially when trying to keep up with my kids. 😆 🍻 Happy Shooting
Excellent explanation, especially for beginners. I sometimes apply this method when using one of my range finder cameras. Unfortunately, steet photography, i.e. taking pictures of people w/o their consent is not legal in Germany. Therefore, taking candid pictures and publishig them is problematic where I live.
Nice video Roger, thank you. What I'm not sure about is how you manage camera shake and exposure, especially if you are in manual mode. Any comments? Thanks.
Depending on the camera I can usually go to 1/30th if I hold my breath and still get a reasonably sharp image. Sometimes I can go to 1/15th if I am using a leaf shutter camera (no mirror slapping). Anything in the photo that moves will have slight motion blur which is fine as long as the static objects in the background are steady, buildings etc.
This is the best video about focusing with mf lens. I have a question about dof when i take a lens into another body( ex: lens nikon on body Fujifilm, ..). Thanks
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss practice makes perfect- although I do it for a while then forget. I was out with Tom in Liverpool one day shooting on the streets- he had a Leica ( think the M3) everything was quick and he’d move on. Together with the zone focusing and the hyper focal distance they’re three ways of getting the pictures without even lifting the camera to your eye.
Thanks for your video which enlightened me about zone + hyperfocul focusing. Always found this a little abstract. Does your camera factor in the metering of the subject + hence let you know if the exposure is acceptable for the given selected f stop? Also are the metering constraints the same for a manual camera? Many thanks Derek
Most of these SLR's are average metering. Meaning it will take into account the whole scene and work out an average exposure. I use my SLR cameras mostly on Aperture Priority so I select the aperture and the camera will automatically select the correct shutter speed for a correct exposure. Unless I want to control the shutter speed for any creative reasons then I will shoot manually but either way the cameras internal meter will give me a reading for my exposure. Some of these older cameras, however, are not very reliable on the metering side. The cells wear out over time. So best to check the metering on any camera with a light meter or a modern digital SLR before you go off and rely on it.
I've never really used zone focusing on any SLR, only my viewfinder Isolette. To be fair, I don't think one can descreetly shoot street photography with the Bronica! Also check your email, Roger - I messaged you a few weeks ago!
8 months later and I still can't get used to the WLF. I love the way it looks but I wish it could be corrected. I always move the camera around like a monkey trying to straighten out and compose
Interestingly enough, I've had a few street sessions with the Bronica and multiple times have people confuse it for a video camera. It's a lot bulkier than we think!
Good explanation, this is especially useful with viewfinder cameras like Smena Symbol. With an SLR, I don't think this will really speed up the process. Whether you are in hurry, or subject is fast-moving (like bird or a cat), or for any scenario you think you won't nail the focus... Just focus in a single throw as good as you can, and then still shoot at f16.. It will be just as fast (if not faster) and end up much shaper than this method. Because while in small enough prints f/16 with that 28mm lens may produce "acceptable" results from 0,8m to infinity, by at least trying to get a focus, you'll be missing focus by few cms instead of few meters...
Cheers. For me at least I'd rather leave the lens set on a zone and shoot, say crowds, without touching the focus ring. As soon as I touch that focus ring I'll be trying to get a focus as a force of habit. Depends on the action
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It ends around 7:35. I found the funky drum bed really distracting. Have not noticed you using them on your other tubes. Other than this, great content, keep them coming 👍
I can tell you that shooting with a Leica, does not necessarily make good photographs nor that the guy using it knows what he is doing, but showing off a Leica as a badge of honour, and jumping on the bandwagon of film revival. I keep my Leica Ms for those special moments of inspiration.
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Very clear explanation, Roger. The only point worth adding is that these depth of field marks on the lens barrels are calculated with the final print in mind, and in these cases the print size is almost univesally assumed to be 8X10, and the viewing distance about 10" or 25 cm. If people want to print larger or are intending to put their prints up for exhibition, then a much more accurate hyperfocal distance is required. I often play with the cambridgeincolour on line calculator, and the distances for MF and LF are rather startling. PS: One of my hobbies is doing HFT competitions ( sub 12 ft.lbs air rifle ), in HFT one is not allowed to use a rangefinding scope nor use the focusing occular to obtain the target distance. One very quickly learns how to range find using the good old eyes. I am usually pretty accurate to within a meter from 1 meter to 40 meters. I guess this is an extreme way of practicing ' zone focusing ', LOL.
Ha ha 😂. Yes that's why i said about landscapes and hyper being best practised for that kind of photography. Good you're eyes are eagle like! Lol
With autofocus these days we think it will do everything.
I started on my Dad's VPK and if you could work that then depth of field scales are simple.
I have taken the autofocus zoom off my D800 and found a 35 mm F2 manual lens much better.
Just set the camera to aperture priority on F11 say on iso 400 and shutter speed well over the necessary minimum of 30 th sec as per rule of thumb with that focal length.
Much lighter too to carry around and good for most shots.My 1.8 Nikkor manual is fun too.
For Roger, my UK Buddy,
Photography
by James Metcalfe
A photograph is more than just
A gift to bring or send.
And more than just the likeness of
A relative or friend.
It is a kindly greeting and
A memory to hold.
Of happy times and pleasant things.
However new or old.
It is a mirror that reflects
Companionship and cheer.
And now and then the wistfulness
That turns into a tear.
A photograph is something to
Adorn a desk or wall.
Or carry in a pocket and
Display to one and all.
It is a faithful portrait
The smile that friendship shares
To add its sunshine and to show
That someone really cares.
Author: Unknown
Cheers for that Carmine! Top chappie !
This is extremely, practically useful to me as someone who likes to shoot film on the street. I get fed up with constantly needing to refocus and this means that I inevitably go back to my digital cameras. No longer! Thank you so much. More like this please!
I like shooting with older cameras, so I've used zone focusing quite a bit. Typically I try to use f16 or f11 so I have more room for error with focusing.
Very clearly explained. Something I had never heard of. Brilliant
And this my friend, is the first time I've ever understood zone focusing. Thanks!
Nice clear explanation!!! I use a lot of old folders and basically zone focus for street stuff!!! Being a Yank, I am a feet person ... I just don't think metric!!!
I use this system for weddings and parties.... Include a flash and you've got a point and shoot camera that can work all day and in any dim light :-) Great vid m8 :-)
For Crowds it works perfect Iain.
Thanks for this upload, I’ve learned so much from this one upload than any book trying to explain it 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻
Nice to see a fellow IOW Street Photographer
The best explanation of zone focusing method. Clear and easy to understand by using pointer and animation lines. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I am going to practice Zone Focusing now. I understand the basics from your teaching video. I will use my Nikon F 3 High Point camera ! Thank you again from Canada . RS.
Kudos using P3200 during the day! Its a perfect film for this application (no camera shake!) and those frames have loads of character and shadow detail.
Yeah I needed to for f16 and handheld, although I did shoot it at 1600
Went out yesterday with my Mamiya 645 1000s and did some nature trail shots. First time out with it and I tried zone focusing on a lot of the shots because it was next to impossible to get a good focus with the waist finder. Keeping fingers crossed....LOL CHEERS Roger! Great video! Have a pint for me.
Cheers Rick I shall
That’s how I focus. As a former photojournalist you had to be ready to get that shot fast. So pre-focusing got me the shot.
I love how you can communicate with people Roger
Great episode and explanation, love the Tmax3200 rendering.
Using the rollei 35s, zone focusing was a bit of a learning curve for me. Once you get the hang of it, it’s a great tool.
Yeah brilliant vlog and reiterated enough to grasp the benefits, the comment right at the end was bang on the nail, you bring that camera up and you loose the shot or worse, someone gets upset! DG
What a great video, incredibly engaging and informative … would love to see one for us digital heathens … I’ve been working on HFD and ZF but I’m all fingers and thumbs and I struggle with guessing the distance 😂- Subscribed
Interesting stuff. Done a bit of street and always had the camera to the eye. Will have a play and use this, cheers.
2 great pics of the 2 men black and white, thanks for your video
On the Nikon lenses, the marks are color coded instead of using digits.
Very good. Just bust my ankle, so I’m watching this with my crutches so I had a laugh about your Good Fortune plan:)
Ha ha get well soon Colin!
Thanks for sharing zone focusing and appreciate your cheery attitude 💯
My pleasure!!
Superbly informative AND entertaining. Well done!
Glad you enjoyed it!
The problem with focus on a zone or using the hyperfocal distance is that you first have to think about what „acceptably sharp“ actually means. I usually use the scale two stops wider. So if I set the lens to f/16, I will use the focus marks for f/8.
Very impressive video. Hyperfocal and zone focussing well explained.
Thanks! ☺️
Great explanation and examples of hyperfocus and zone focusing! I do think though that there should be some mention of the film speed. You loaded a roll of 3200 speed film which gives you a lot more opportunity for a faster shutter speed. If shooting say, 100 ISO film on an overcast day with an aperture of f11 or f16, shutter speed will be very low to get a proper exposure, resulting in blurred images from motion or camera shake. Just something to keep in mind for anyone going out to try this. Use a fast film if not shooting on a bright day!
Fine job thanks
Real pleasure to watch you, sir!
Thanks. I found your zone-focusing lesson useful.
Glad to hear it!
If you asked me 10 years ago if I used zone focussing and hyper focus, I would have said no. Never heard of it. For quick shots, I relied on the depth of field, which of course depended on focal length and aperture. Good to know that when I set set my camera, I can now use the latest terminology.
Fantastic did not know about this I Wii try this thanks
I always thought of zone focusing as focusing using aperture instead of using the focusing ring. Using zone focusing with a digital camera works very well when using auto ISO.
Enjoyed the vided. I've been practicing zone focusing recently and have enjoyed it. Shot a few rolls with my TLR this weekend using zone focusing. It allowed me to just relax and hit the shutter when I thought something was in range. I don't necessarily judge my distances correctly at the moment but that's a part of the learning process.
I thought that hyperfocusing and zone focusing were the same thing! Makes sense that hyeperfocus is the most critical/sharp. Well done as always Roger!! Always looking forward to the next video :D
Thanks Abdullah 👋👋
Great snaps and video Roger. I never use to think about things in meters until I got my Barnack with Summitar lens. I had to learn to understand distances in meters, as suppose to feet. I love zone focusing and using hyper distance scales with this camera. I think its funny when people say that using older leica's are such a slower process. I treat mine like a point and shoot, especially when trying to keep up with my kids. 😆 🍻 Happy Shooting
I have a meter ruler for years and so I'm used to that length and can easily visualise better than I can feet
Excellent explanation, especially for beginners. I sometimes apply this method when using one of my range finder cameras. Unfortunately, steet photography, i.e. taking pictures of people w/o their consent is not legal in Germany. Therefore, taking candid pictures and publishig them is problematic where I live.
Thanks for the video! You taught me so much 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
You are so welcome!
Fantastic video and really clearly explained. Inherited an old Kodak Retinette 1A and will certainly be using these techniques. Thank you :)
Fantastic cameras
nice work👍
Have a nice day✌️📸
Informative, I've never really understood it. I recognised Emma @ the coffee shop
Yup that's Emma
Thank you , great video
Nice video Roger, thank you. What I'm not sure about is how you manage camera shake and exposure, especially if you are in manual mode. Any comments? Thanks.
Depending on the camera I can usually go to 1/30th if I hold my breath and still get a reasonably sharp image. Sometimes I can go to 1/15th if I am using a leaf shutter camera (no mirror slapping). Anything in the photo that moves will have slight motion blur which is fine as long as the static objects in the background are steady, buildings etc.
So, I have a Micro 4/3 camera, does this still applies using a manual lens? I mean do the meters relate the same?
This is the best video about focusing with mf lens. I have a question about dof when i take a lens into another body( ex: lens nikon on body Fujifilm, ..). Thanks
The lenses have distance scales on them so taking one lens to another body for that is no problem. DOF comes from the lens itself so no change there.
My Photography Tutor Tom Wood( mate of Martin Parr always said learn to judge distances so you could set up your lens to just get a quick photograph.
And what good advice Resgerr!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss practice makes perfect- although I do it for a while then forget. I was out with Tom in Liverpool one day shooting on the streets- he had a Leica ( think the M3) everything was quick and he’d move on. Together with the zone focusing and the hyper focal distance they’re three ways of getting the pictures without even lifting the camera to your eye.
Really great explanation, thank you! What sort of shuttter speed are you shooting at for this stuff, or do you leave it in Aperture Priority mode?
Usually aperture priority if I'm in light where the shutter won't go slower than 1/60th. Unless I need to use the shutter for anything creative
Thanks for your video which enlightened me about zone + hyperfocul focusing.
Always found this a little abstract.
Does your camera factor in the metering of the subject + hence let you know if the exposure is acceptable for the given selected f stop?
Also are the metering constraints the same for a manual camera?
Many thanks
Derek
Most of these SLR's are average metering. Meaning it will take into account the whole scene and work out an average exposure. I use my SLR cameras mostly on Aperture Priority so I select the aperture and the camera will automatically select the correct shutter speed for a correct exposure. Unless I want to control the shutter speed for any creative reasons then I will shoot manually but either way the cameras internal meter will give me a reading for my exposure. Some of these older cameras, however, are not very reliable on the metering side. The cells wear out over time. So best to check the metering on any camera with a light meter or a modern digital SLR before you go off and rely on it.
Great explanation....did you expose using sunny 16?
No Ed. The internal meter of the Olympus
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thanks, they came out great!
Do you do anything to lock your focus ring down or do you just check to make sure it hasn't moved while walking around?
I have to check I haven't nudged it off course!
Is the builder a relation @roger? It's Lowe's scaffolding!
Was waiting for it lol. No i don't think so.
roger, whatever happened to the wednesday wonders? surely we haven't stopped wondering =-)
Ahh they were fun during lockdown days. I was wondering what would happen if I put a film in a microwave before and after exposing
I've never really used zone focusing on any SLR, only my viewfinder Isolette. To be fair, I don't think one can descreetly shoot street photography with the Bronica!
Also check your email, Roger - I messaged you a few weeks ago!
Okay Dane! Thanks, I'll look mate. I nearly did take the Bronica without a prism and shoot waist level
8 months later and I still can't get used to the WLF. I love the way it looks but I wish it could be corrected. I always move the camera around like a monkey trying to straighten out and compose
Interestingly enough, I've had a few street sessions with the Bronica and multiple times have people confuse it for a video camera. It's a lot bulkier than we think!
Had to watch the first 10 seconds twice :D
Children's leashes are really a thing?
Called reins... Very useful for toddlers who want to walk but would be a jam sandwich in seconds near traffic. Been a things for about 60 years now...
@@dougdoug5949 Yep, I've know of them since I was a youngster back in the 60's.
Hence the old saying that the secret to great photography is "F8 and be there!"
I never heard that 😃
Good explanation, this is especially useful with viewfinder cameras like Smena Symbol. With an SLR, I don't think this will really speed up the process. Whether you are in hurry, or subject is fast-moving (like bird or a cat), or for any scenario you think you won't nail the focus... Just focus in a single throw as good as you can, and then still shoot at f16.. It will be just as fast (if not faster) and end up much shaper than this method. Because while in small enough prints f/16 with that 28mm lens may produce "acceptable" results from 0,8m to infinity, by at least trying to get a focus, you'll be missing focus by few cms instead of few meters...
Cheers. For me at least I'd rather leave the lens set on a zone and shoot, say crowds, without touching the focus ring. As soon as I touch that focus ring I'll be trying to get a focus as a force of habit. Depends on the action
Dana White and photography!
Who can believe this??
😂😂
Seems to be some interference on your audio in this video? Sounds a bit like The Queen introducing Queen. Very annoying.
Thanks for the feedback. Is there any particular part or did you notice it in the whole video?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It ends around 7:35. I found the funky drum bed really distracting. Have not noticed you using them on your other tubes. Other than this, great content, keep them coming 👍
@@wibbley1 got it, the background track. I thought you meant the voice mic. Cheers 👍
i suck at math :(
Me too!
What is this heresy not shooting street photography using zone focusing with a leica like every other youtuber? 🤣
I can tell you that shooting with a Leica, does not necessarily make good photographs nor that the guy using it knows what he is doing, but showing off a Leica as a badge of honour, and jumping on the bandwagon of film revival. I keep my Leica Ms for those special moments of inspiration.
Is it London?🏫🏣🏤
On the Isle of Wight somewhere, he lives on the Isle of Wight
South of England near portsmouth
Beautiful city😍😍😍💯💯💯