Even though this video is 3 years old, it is by far the easiest video on changing front brake pads on a volkswagen compared to all of the others from other channels that I've looked through. Every other video I looked at on this topic left me with questions on how to change these pads - Your video did not - short, simple and easy to follow - Thanks.
Wow, I gotta say, your lighting and camera angles and close ups REALLY make this video AWESOME. It must be VERY difficult to film this so perfectly. May seem easy to the viewers, but its NOT!! Im guessing you have to set up the lighting for each step, and check the clips for clarity, lighting, LOS obstructions, and probably other things I dont even know about BEFORE you move on to the next step. Carefully filming each step of this process likely made a 2 hour job into an all day affair! Mad cudos and props!!!! 💯👌❗
Hey thanks bro!.. I just did my brakes. On my 2011 VW Jetta SE. 2.5l 5spd. Your video made it so easy!.. props to you for great knowledge content, & helping many others like me as well!.. now can you do a clutch rebuild 🤔lol
You are the man. Thank you for this. Gave me the confidence do this myself on my 2016 Jetta. One quick question, in your video you talked about possible brake fluid overflow? you opened and looked into the brake fluid container? May I ask what was the potential problem? Thanks
As the brake pads wear, the fluid in the reservoir drops as fluid migrates into the caliper piston cavity. When performing a brake pad replacement service, the piston is pushed back in caliper which will make the fluid migrate back into the reservoir. A common mistake that people make is to fill the reservoir back up to the top level not knowing that the fluid level drops as the pads wear. So when the piston is pushed back into the caliper during service, the reservoir may overflow due to the excess fluid previously added before the pad replacement.
Bro, uneven pad wear is your 1st indication of a sticking caliper. Pull the pins back out and inspect/clean & lube them. Otherwise good video but always pull and lube those pins.
Thanks but with this brake design the brake pad ears slides on the caliper bracket when it wears. The pins only hold the caliper to the caliper bracket and don't move.
Stupid question: Are those bolt heads on sub-chassis actually able to take the load of whole car? Always gave me the impression it will slide away from jack stand...
Hi I’m gonna try to replace my pad and rotors by myself I’m nervous cuz I don’t really have any mechanical experience or know much but hopefully this will help me
Will be my first time changing brake pads on a vwjetta , that fluid you checked is the brake fluid correct ? And what if it’s halfway on not full like the one you checked ?
If the fluid level is below the full mark, pressing back in the caliper pistons will push the fluid level back up. As the pads wear and the pistons get extended, the fluid level will drop. Check the fluid level first before taking the wheels off to determine pad wear.
I'd guess that the ears of the brake pads were not sliding evenly on the caliper bracket. This is why I cleaned up the slides with a wire brush and lubricated with brake grease before mounting on the new pads.
OK, so I changed the front pads and rotors, cleaned up and greased the caliper bracket and the brakes work great. But each time I begin to press the pedal, there's a single clunk from the front left. It only happens while I'm moving, and is definitely related to something in the brakes. Can't figure out what though. Could it be worn contact points on the carrier, that allow the pad to shift slightly? Any other things to check? My mechanic said it was missing shims, but I don't think the front brakes have shims (I didn't see any in your video).
On some replacement pads, the shims are rivetted to the pads. If yours aren't, the shims may be moving around causing the clunk. What I do is apply a product called "CRC Brake Pad Quiet" between the pads and shims and let it dry. It's like RTV but semi hardens in a few hours. You can also apply the CRC where the caliper ears makes contact with the pad shims. That should take care of your problem.
My brakes just got changed last year and I put aftermarket ones on but now I'm thinking I should of just got the VW ones. I have a lot of squeak when I press the pedal and they click whenever I backup/goforward
I drive a 2020 Jetta GLI and i've been driving on bad brakes for a while they squealed every time I stopped. But now they're not even squealing any more for some reason. Should I get new brake pads and rotors or just new pads?
I am due for front and rear pads on my '13 Jetta. Will the system need to be bleed? I see that when you compress the caliper back in you open the cap on the fluid reservoir; is it fine just doing only that?
I use the fluid level on the reservoir to determine if my pads need replacement. When the pads where, fluid migrates from the reservoir to the caliper piston hole. When you push the pistons back in, you're pushing the fluid back up to the reservoir. Removing the cap helps to reduce the back pressure (although the caps has a small vent hole).
so it doesnt damage the caliper to depress them without opening the bleeder valve? i was told not to do it like this but i was wondering how it is done because it was my understanding you dont want air in a system with abs. anyone have some thoughts please share, thanks.
Thank you so much for this video! I replaced my front brakes all on my own!! I was wondering- is this process similar for rear brakes? I have to also replace the rear brakes, and I can't find any videos as high quality as this one to follow. :/
The rear brake pistons are screw types; that is, you have to turn in (clock wise) the piston back into caliper. Here's a video where I did it on a Honda: th-cam.com/video/fDCAYY_Ml0M/w-d-xo.html
If you want to use your old rotors, you should get them resurfaced assuming there's enough metal to cut. Out-of-round rotors will cause steering wheel vibration, effect braking efficiency and create inconsistent pad wear. Oreilly's provides a service where they resurface for around $12 a rotor. Here's a video where I resurface rotors: th-cam.com/video/eEpYifYWV5k/w-d-xo.html
@@chuongtrinh3852 no .. because they are groves up.. u put brakes that are scratched with groves on it to a rotor that’s smooth .. Ur brakes will put them scratches and groves back into the rotor or vice versa .. u wants smooth on smooth .. rub ur finger across if u feel groves it’s no good .. u will only tear up the new item that’s smooth ..
It seems as if the one on the back of my car is worn out. I hear it grinding whenever I apply the brakes. Is the front the same as the back? Can I do it myself instead of paying $400?
Could be too late but...you have to push back the rear piston with a press which rotate in the same time the piston...Many cars have this feature because of the integrated hand brakes ...Don't try with regular C clamp, I understand that is possible to destroy something inside..That press is available on Amazon and many other places.
@@eduarditogonzales4485 you don’t have to buy a special press to rotate the piston and push it at the same time. Disconnect the parking brake motor with t30 torque head, use impact driver with t40 to turn the motor clock wise until it stops, and then you can use a c clamp to push the piston. Just did it on my 2010 Tiguan.
@@VG-xh7gx Instead of press kit which is 20-25 $ would be more advantageous to buy impact driver, C clamp plus 30 and 40 Torx bits? More than that I have no idea where is the parking brake motor...
What am I supposed to do if I don’t have a fancy piston compression tool like it would have been nice if you said that at the beginning that you would need one now I have to put everything Back together n go get one. Like fml
Hi what’s the purpose of using that pressure tool? Is that required when changing breaks can I just take the old breaks out and put the new breaks in without doing that step ?
@@hardlymovingpro but don’t u have to use a press that turns the caliber? Because some have to turn to push it back in.. how do u know if it needs to turn wile pushing it in..
hi i dont understand a thing about cars but i have to change my the front brake pads on my VW Jetta 2007 i will let a mechanic do it but i want to buy the pads myself so i wont get overcharged for them but i have several brake pads i can chose from and they are all with a different Height, Length, Thickness and Disc Ø which i have no idea what it means. How can i find the correct size for my car?
Pad sizes and types may differ based on the year and style of the car. All that info can be obtained by the vin #. Speak with the parts vendor to get the right one.
@@kevinrobles7768 yeah i got the right brake pads and i had a friend install them but while doing so we found another problem which i had to go to a mechanic and it costed me 700 paunds :(
2:33 Does anyone else think that piston needs attention? The boot doesn't seem to be seated around it correctly, and there is some fluid marks on it which could indicate that it's leaking.
The dust boot, in some occasions, may not completely recess back into the caliper during the piston compression; however, after the caliper has been remounted and the brakes pumped, the caliper piston will push out and the boot will follow.
@@hardlymovingpro I wasn't referring to its position when the piston was pushed into the calliper. I was talking about how it sat around the piston at that time stamp. Not all of the outer edge of the boot seemed to fully inside recessed lip at outer edge of the piston. It only seemed to be partly secured around the piston. If you've ever rebuilt a calliper, then you'll know that the piston has a groove for the boot to sit it. It didn't seem to be fully in the groove (lip).
@@hardlymovingpro So you'll no the recessed part of the piston I'm talking about. Check your video at the time stamp I mentioned. It doesn't look like your boot is properly seated in that lip.
DO NOT DO IT LIKE THIS GUY! Why anyone would push the contaminated brake fluid from inside the caliper up into the brake fluid reservoir is beyond me. Use a hose clamp tool and clamp the brake hose at the caliper, open your bleed valve, open caliper, close bleed valve, release brake hose clamp, remove and replace pads add fresh DOT 4 fluid as required.....9 of 10 times you won't have to bleed anything and 100% of the time you won't send trash up your system with contaminated brake fluid. Simple extra step can save you hundreds of $.
Clamp the brake hose with a hose clamp tool? Easy way to damage the hose internals. Open caliper? You mean compress the caliper piston? Send trash up your system? Brake fluid is part of a sealed system ... what trash? Sorry ... I'm totally confused with your post.
You've never seen or heard of brake line pliers? They're plastic..... if a hose is damaged by plastic then it should be replaced. BTW you can't compress fluid with a caliper my friend, unless it has air in it. As far as brake fluid being contaminated by a sealed system.....absolutely it is. Not only is it contaminated it's gone through extreme heat and sudden cooling unless you don't drive in the rain. Look, you had some great points but the lack of experience on brake jobs shows and that's ok..... we're here to learn...I'm glad I could help you with that. Im glad I was able to teach you some things and anyone who sees my comment too. Hey I appreciate you finding some grammar errors on me. Stick to teaching English? Cheers!
@@marka9049 Thanks for your comments! Good to know how the other side lives! FYI - Done hundreds of brake shoe and pad and rotor service jobs including fluid flushes/exchanges, replacement of brake boosters, master cylinders, installation of malfunctioning abs controllers purging air via bi-directional scan tools, rebuilding stuck/frozen caliper pistons, replacement of abs speed sensors, re-surfacing warped rotors, etc. Never, ever had any of my co-worker use "brake line pliers" ... and never, ever pinch or bend brake lines! Perhaps techs of 40 + years ago with weaker, obsolete line materials. Brake fluid, being hygroscopic, deteriorates by moisture absorption. It's not oil! This is why manufacturers, such as Volvo, recommend a complete evacuation of brake fluid after a few years regardless of the pad wear status. The moisture absorption and fluid deterioration is not isolated at the caliper; rather the entire system. Excess moisture will cause corrosion on the caliper pistons as well as the master cylinder's shaft which will result in premature seal wear. Moreover, braking at high altitudes would be compromised since the boiling points of the fluid would be lowered. As a final note: caliper pistons are recessed into the caliper by professionals using various piston compression tools to choose from negating the need to open the air bleed valve and replenishing lost fluid. But by all means, service the brakes the way you feel most comfortable with.
@@hardlymovingpro tbh most shops are going to do it the same way he did I’ve done it for years it’s never failed me. Never had any break issues from pressing pistons back in without clamping hoses. To each their on though it’s your car.
@@hardlymovingpro do u know which models of jetta comes with brake shoe sensor i m trying to figure out if i have sensor or not i have a model 2.0 engine its the lowest model thanks
I'm due for a rear brake replacement soon and I'll be goin w Akebono. Do I need to replace the rotor as well? Or can I just get it resurfaced? It's not warped or anything but I've heard that you should get new rotors if you're replacing your brakes. If so, what brand should I go with? TIA.
I use to resurface but now get new corrosion coated rotors. The quality, performance and metallurgy seems better than non coated ones. Regardless, don't put on new pads without resurfaced or new rotors. There is a braking performance difference.
@@hardlymovingpro appreciate the response! Any recommendation on which rotors I should get? Looking for brands w high quality and performance but not overly expensive. Thanks again!
Recognized name brands like Raybestos, Centric or Wagner. Stay away from store brands like Duralast and don't buy slotted or holed rotors. No one will resurface them.
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About to do a front Rotor/Brake pad replacement on my MK6 Golf for the first time. This video makes it so much easier to do. Very detailed
Glad you liked it!
Even though this video is 3 years old, it is by far the easiest video on changing front brake pads on a volkswagen compared to all of the others from other channels that I've looked through. Every other video I looked at on this topic left me with questions on how to change these pads - Your video did not - short, simple and easy to follow - Thanks.
You bet!
" ....just don't put it in drive and takeoff ..." PRICELESSS! This is an easy to follow plain & detailed video. Thank you sir.
You bet ...thanks!
Wow, I gotta say, your lighting and camera angles and close ups REALLY make this video AWESOME. It must be VERY difficult to film this so perfectly. May seem easy to the viewers, but its NOT!! Im guessing you have to set up the lighting for each step, and check the clips for clarity, lighting, LOS obstructions, and probably other things I dont even know about BEFORE you move on to the next step. Carefully filming each step of this process likely made a 2 hour job into an all day affair! Mad cudos and props!!!! 💯👌❗
Thanks! You're right. Lots of work go into making these videos.
I'd trust this guy for dad like advice...he's rocking the white new balance's
Had to trash the New Balance's. Wore out the soles.
😆
Bro your hurting my brain cells with that grammar
@@itsfreegaming7082 you’re*
@@Ruleno.9 you made my day 🤣
Thanks for the help!
This is my first non European vehicle so it's been a learning curve for everything I do 😂
Glad the video helped you out!
Thank you for the video! I think I'm responsible for 40 of the views kept playing over each step of the way. Great step by step advice.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey thanks bro!.. I just did my brakes. On my 2011 VW Jetta SE. 2.5l 5spd. Your video made it so easy!.. props to you for great knowledge content, & helping many others like me as well!.. now can you do a clutch rebuild 🤔lol
Thanks! Replacing a clutch is much more involved.
Much appreciated, performing it on a College student’s 2021 Jetta to help out!
Thanks for sharing and should be an easy job.
Excellent video. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and skill!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks a million. U made what I thought would be hard so easy.
Glad I could help!
Best video out there for vw
Thanks!
You are the man. Thank you for this. Gave me the confidence do this myself on my 2016 Jetta. One quick question, in your video you talked about possible brake fluid overflow? you opened and looked into the brake fluid container? May I ask what was the potential problem? Thanks
As the brake pads wear, the fluid in the reservoir drops as fluid migrates into the caliper piston cavity. When performing a brake pad replacement service, the piston is pushed back in caliper which will make the fluid migrate back into the reservoir. A common mistake that people make is to fill the reservoir back up to the top level not knowing that the fluid level drops as the pads wear. So when the piston is pushed back into the caliper during service, the reservoir may overflow due to the excess fluid previously added before the pad replacement.
Thank you sir
You bet!
Bro, uneven pad wear is your 1st indication of a sticking caliper. Pull the pins back out and inspect/clean & lube them. Otherwise good video but always pull and lube those pins.
Thanks but with this brake design the brake pad ears slides on the caliper bracket when it wears. The pins only hold the caliper to the caliper bracket and don't move.
GromitDog1 You are absolutely right
@hardlymovingpro, pins are not moving, but the caliper should slide over those pins.
Looks like you're not familiar with VW brakes.
Stupid question: Are those bolt heads on sub-chassis actually able to take the load of whole car? Always gave me the impression it will slide away from jack stand...
The hole in the center of the wheel mounts up on the wheel hub ring. That's what supports the weight of the car. The lugs keep the wheel on the hub.
Excellent video mate. Much appreciated!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi I’m gonna try to replace my pad and rotors by myself I’m nervous cuz I don’t really have any mechanical experience or know much but hopefully this will help me
Know anyone you can give you a hand?
@@hardlymovingproNo
Not a difficult task with right tools
Will be my first time changing brake pads on a vwjetta , that fluid you checked is the brake fluid correct ? And what if it’s halfway on not full like the one you checked ?
If the fluid level is below the full mark, pressing back in the caliper pistons will push the fluid level back up. As the pads wear and the pistons get extended, the fluid level will drop. Check the fluid level first before taking the wheels off to determine pad wear.
Thanks for this detailed video. Are the lugs 19mm? is this standard size for vw jetta m6? many thanks again
From my recollection, yes 19mm.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks
excellent tutorial . Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
What could be the reason for extreme uneven brake pad wear?
I'd guess that the ears of the brake pads were not sliding evenly on the caliper bracket. This is why I cleaned up the slides with a wire brush and lubricated with brake grease before mounting on the new pads.
You have to change the front and back at the same time?
Nope. The front and rear wear rate is different.
Do you know the specs on the wheel lock nuts key I have the exact same rims on my Jetta but lost the piece
Sorry. The lug nut key is unique to the lug nut set. You'll need to go to a custom wheel sales and installation center to get a replacement.
This guy so so cool!!! Thank you for all the help
You bet and thanks!
OK, so I changed the front pads and rotors, cleaned up and greased the caliper bracket and the brakes work great. But each time I begin to press the pedal, there's a single clunk from the front left. It only happens while I'm moving, and is definitely related to something in the brakes. Can't figure out what though. Could it be worn contact points on the carrier, that allow the pad to shift slightly? Any other things to check? My mechanic said it was missing shims, but I don't think the front brakes have shims (I didn't see any in your video).
On some replacement pads, the shims are rivetted to the pads. If yours aren't, the shims may be moving around causing the clunk. What I do is apply a product called "CRC Brake Pad Quiet" between the pads and shims and let it dry. It's like RTV but semi hardens in a few hours. You can also apply the CRC where the caliper ears makes contact with the pad shims. That should take care of your problem.
Two Thumbs Up. Some euro-trash aren't so bad to work on.
At first I didn't see the value in this design until I started working on them. Some Ford's use this design as well.
My brakes just got changed last year and I put aftermarket ones on but now I'm thinking I should of just got the VW ones. I have a lot of squeak when I press the pedal and they click whenever I backup/goforward
Get Akibono, Bosche, Raybestos or ATE brake pads. All high quality. Akibono is the best ...imho.
It's Normal. Factory pads are just tuned to not resonate at an audible frequency
just one question. when you pushed the cylinder in was there a valve to unscrew to allow the cylinder to go back in?
Nope.
I drive a 2020 Jetta GLI and i've been driving on bad brakes for a while they squealed every time I stopped. But now they're not even squealing any more for some reason. Should I get new brake pads and rotors or just new pads?
Can't advise without taking off the wheels and examining the brakes.
This guy rocks
Thanks!
Best Video
Thanks!
I am due for front and rear pads on my '13 Jetta. Will the system need to be bleed? I see that when you compress the caliper back in you open the cap on the fluid reservoir; is it fine just doing only that?
What tools are needed? Just that #7 hex head, the flat head screwdriver, brush, and whatever size socket for the lugs?
I use the fluid level on the reservoir to determine if my pads need replacement. When the pads where, fluid migrates from the reservoir to the caliper piston hole. When you push the pistons back in, you're pushing the fluid back up to the reservoir. Removing the cap helps to reduce the back pressure (although the caps has a small vent hole).
All you need is the hex socket to remove the caliper. Can't state the sizes. I have complete hex and socket sets and find the one that fits.
for the inner pad, can I use a pad which does not clip inside the caliper piston?
Never tried so I wouldn't recommend.
so it doesnt damage the caliper to depress them without opening the bleeder valve? i was told not to do it like this but i was wondering how it is done because it was my understanding you dont want air in a system with abs. anyone have some thoughts please share, thanks.
No air will enter the system by compressing the caliper piston back in.
I have rubber caps on the lug nuts that have a star insert... Can i just pop them off with a screw driver or are they threaded on?
Yes. The caps are cosmetic.
My kit came with a brake pad with a wire and a sensor , is this normal for a 2012 Passat s ?
Is there a wire coming out from the old pads?
Thank you so much for this video! I replaced my front brakes all on my own!! I was wondering- is this process similar for rear brakes? I have to also replace the rear brakes, and I can't find any videos as high quality as this one to follow. :/
The rear brake pistons are screw types; that is, you have to turn in (clock wise) the piston back into caliper. Here's a video where I did it on a Honda: th-cam.com/video/fDCAYY_Ml0M/w-d-xo.html
Do steel brake lines necessary when upgrade pads?
Nice to have but not necessary.
Can I use old pads on new rotors and also break in using old pads?
Nope. The new pads need to seat into the new or resurfaced rotors.
Is it ok to use old rotors with new pads and vice versa? I get 50/50 answer online please help
If you want to use your old rotors, you should get them resurfaced assuming there's enough metal to cut. Out-of-round rotors will cause steering wheel vibration, effect braking efficiency and create inconsistent pad wear. Oreilly's provides a service where they resurface for around $12 a rotor. Here's a video where I resurface rotors: th-cam.com/video/eEpYifYWV5k/w-d-xo.html
@@hardlymovingpro thanks! What if I have new rotors and old pads? Can I break in the new rotors using old pads?
@@chuongtrinh3852 no .. because they are groves up.. u put brakes that are scratched with groves on it to a rotor that’s smooth .. Ur brakes will put them scratches and groves back into the rotor or vice versa .. u wants smooth on smooth .. rub ur finger across if u feel groves it’s no good .. u will only tear up the new item that’s smooth ..
Watch this video: th-cam.com/video/eEpYifYWV5k/w-d-xo.html
It seems as if the one on the back of my car is worn out. I hear it grinding whenever I apply the brakes. Is the front the same as the back? Can I do it myself instead of paying $400?
The grinding could be worn out pads down to bare metal. With the tools I used, you should be able to do it yourself with a friend.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you so much
Could be too late but...you have to push back the rear piston with a press which rotate in the same time the piston...Many cars have this feature because of the integrated hand brakes ...Don't try with regular C clamp, I understand that is possible to destroy something inside..That press is available on Amazon and many other places.
@@eduarditogonzales4485 you don’t have to buy a special press to rotate the piston and push it at the same time. Disconnect the parking brake motor with t30 torque head, use impact driver with t40 to turn the motor clock wise until it stops, and then you can use a c clamp to push the piston. Just did it on my 2010 Tiguan.
@@VG-xh7gx Instead of press kit which is 20-25 $ would be more advantageous to buy impact driver, C clamp plus 30 and 40 Torx bits? More than that I have no idea where is the parking brake motor...
Is this the same for a 2019 Jetta r line ?
Sorry. Don't know.
You forgot mention the brake pad sensor harness
If it came with one.
What am I supposed to do if I don’t have a fancy piston compression tool like it would have been nice if you said that at the beginning that you would need one now I have to put everything Back together n go get one. Like fml
You can use a large C clamp. The screw of the clamp can sit inside the hole of the caliper piston.
ayyy I have the same exact wheels except mine are painted black. But they used to look like that
Hi what’s the purpose of using that pressure tool? Is that required when changing breaks can I just take the old breaks out and put the new breaks in without doing that step ?
You have to recess the caliper piston back into the caliper for the new pads. Otherwise, the pads won't fit over the brake rotor.
@@hardlymovingpro but don’t u have to use a press that turns the caliber? Because some have to turn to push it back in.. how do u know if it needs to turn wile pushing it in..
hi i dont understand a thing about cars but i have to change my the front brake pads on my VW Jetta 2007 i will let a mechanic do it but i want to buy the pads myself so i wont get overcharged for them but i have several brake pads i can chose from and they are all with a different Height, Length, Thickness and Disc Ø which i have no idea what it means. How can i find the correct size for my car?
Pad sizes and types may differ based on the year and style of the car. All that info can be obtained by the vin #. Speak with the parts vendor to get the right one.
Just take your old ones off and take it with you to the Auto parts store.. p.s hope you have another vehicle 🚜
@@kevinrobles7768 yeah i got the right brake pads and i had a friend install them but while doing so we found another problem which i had to go to a mechanic and it costed me 700 paunds :(
2:33 Does anyone else think that piston needs attention? The boot doesn't seem to be seated around it correctly, and there is some fluid marks on it which could indicate that it's leaking.
The dust boot, in some occasions, may not completely recess back into the caliper during the piston compression; however, after the caliper has been remounted and the brakes pumped, the caliper piston will push out and the boot will follow.
@@hardlymovingpro I wasn't referring to its position when the piston was pushed into the calliper. I was talking about how it sat around the piston at that time stamp. Not all of the outer edge of the boot seemed to fully inside recessed lip at outer edge of the piston. It only seemed to be partly secured around the piston. If you've ever rebuilt a calliper, then you'll know that the piston has a groove for the boot to sit it. It didn't seem to be fully in the groove (lip).
Yes ... I've rebuild calipers. Here's the link: th-cam.com/video/ToXPo7eDcs0/w-d-xo.html
@@hardlymovingpro So you'll no the recessed part of the piston I'm talking about. Check your video at the time stamp I mentioned. It doesn't look like your boot is properly seated in that lip.
Do you guys know if it’s the same on a 2019?
Should be the same if VW hadn't changed their design.
easy peasy
Good for you!
Bro this too complicated man. Shit. I’ll just take it to the mechanic lol.
DIY not for everyone.
😂😂😂😂2mm is just under .080" that's not a last Legg 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Anyone else watch videos like this and say “ Nope, I’m taking it to a professional “.?
Auto repair not for everyone.
DO NOT DO IT LIKE THIS GUY! Why anyone would push the contaminated brake fluid from inside the caliper up into the brake fluid reservoir is beyond me. Use a hose clamp tool and clamp the brake hose at the caliper, open your bleed valve, open caliper, close bleed valve, release brake hose clamp, remove and replace pads add fresh DOT 4 fluid as required.....9 of 10 times you won't have to bleed anything and 100% of the time you won't send trash up your system with contaminated brake fluid. Simple extra step can save you hundreds of $.
Clamp the brake hose with a hose clamp tool? Easy way to damage the hose internals. Open caliper? You mean compress the caliper piston? Send trash up your system? Brake fluid is part of a sealed system ... what trash? Sorry ... I'm totally confused with your post.
You've never seen or heard of brake line pliers? They're plastic..... if a hose is damaged by plastic then it should be replaced. BTW you can't compress fluid with a caliper my friend, unless it has air in it. As far as brake fluid being contaminated by a sealed system.....absolutely it is. Not only is it contaminated it's gone through extreme heat and sudden cooling unless you don't drive in the rain. Look, you had some great points but the lack of experience on brake jobs shows and that's ok..... we're here to learn...I'm glad I could help you with that. Im glad I was able to teach you some things and anyone who sees my comment too. Hey I appreciate you finding some grammar errors on me. Stick to teaching English? Cheers!
@@marka9049 Thanks for your comments! Good to know how the other side lives! FYI - Done hundreds of brake shoe and pad and rotor service jobs including fluid flushes/exchanges, replacement of brake boosters, master cylinders, installation of malfunctioning abs controllers purging air via bi-directional scan tools, rebuilding stuck/frozen caliper pistons, replacement of abs speed sensors, re-surfacing warped rotors, etc. Never, ever had any of my co-worker use "brake line pliers" ... and never, ever pinch or bend brake lines! Perhaps techs of 40 + years ago with weaker, obsolete line materials. Brake fluid, being hygroscopic, deteriorates by moisture absorption. It's not oil! This is why manufacturers, such as Volvo, recommend a complete evacuation of brake fluid after a few years regardless of the pad wear status. The moisture absorption and fluid deterioration is not isolated at the caliper; rather the entire system. Excess moisture will cause corrosion on the caliper pistons as well as the master cylinder's shaft which will result in premature seal wear. Moreover, braking at high altitudes would be compromised since the boiling points of the fluid would be lowered. As a final note: caliper pistons are recessed into the caliper by professionals using various piston compression tools to choose from negating the need to open the air bleed valve and replenishing lost fluid. But by all means, service the brakes the way you feel most comfortable with.
@@hardlymovingpro tbh most shops are going to do it the same way he did I’ve done it for years it’s never failed me. Never had any break issues from pressing pistons back in without clamping hoses. To each their on though it’s your car.
@@hardlymovingpro do u know which models of jetta comes with brake shoe sensor i m trying to figure out if i have sensor or not i have a model 2.0 engine its the lowest model thanks
I'm due for a rear brake replacement soon and I'll be goin w Akebono. Do I need to replace the rotor as well? Or can I just get it resurfaced? It's not warped or anything but I've heard that you should get new rotors if you're replacing your brakes. If so, what brand should I go with? TIA.
I use to resurface but now get new corrosion coated rotors. The quality, performance and metallurgy seems better than non coated ones. Regardless, don't put on new pads without resurfaced or new rotors. There is a braking performance difference.
@@hardlymovingpro appreciate the response! Any recommendation on which rotors I should get? Looking for brands w high quality and performance but not overly expensive. Thanks again!
Recognized name brands like Raybestos, Centric or Wagner. Stay away from store brands like Duralast and don't buy slotted or holed rotors. No one will resurface them.
@@hardlymovingpro will look into those. Thanks alot!
Go to rockauto.com