Hey Y'all! Thanks for watching. I tried hard to ride off into the sunset on this one, but...NO GO! Here's more that didn't make the video: The decklid won't close - the rain tray is attached with some aftermarket hardware and hangs too low. By aftermarket, I mean home depot The clutch fork clevis pin broke. Yes the original plastic one. The fuse block screws are broken Battery is dead. Pedal box accelerator lever is bent badly, probably because the pedal board and pedal stop are missing Turn signal markers don't work. Missing gas tank fuel vent hose But the good news is 10k people have subscribed! I have a new ahh garage time shirt coming and special video coming soon. So thank you!
Engine swaps are always fraught with little issues that take up time, money and effort to resolve. So far, she is lookin good. The test drive should be a blast.
Looking good. You are absolutely flying through the changeover. Thanks for figuring out the often encountered problems and explaining your ingenious solutions to the fix. The "waking up" of a setting Porsche alone usually takes me 20-30 hours, not including a engine swap!
Thanks Harvey, I tend to think things are easier than they are. After this many years, I should know by now, ha ha. "Waking up" is a fantastic term for this car. Good to hear from you!
That's what I was thinking. Good thing I checked for leaks before I fired it up because it sprayed right next to the spark plugs/wires and then dripped onto the headers. As a 912 that is the suction line, but still dangerous.
tom, thanks for being so patient with the car. i've been in that situation several times and it could be very frustrating. just when you thought things were going along smoothly, a monkey wrench gets thrown at you. i couldn't sleep last night and kept on thinking what else could possibly go wrong. anyway, my apologies and thanks again for all your help.
It's only metal as I often say. And everything is fixable. This project needs more than I expected for a quick turn around. Will just need to get it to a good handover point so you can enjoy some fun too! It's no fun having a perfect car.
Like you said, the old brakes usually have swollen flex lines. With the condition of the rubber on the master cylinder, they may be part of the problem. .
As far as I can tell, the rubber fuel lines have never been replaced on this car, so I doubt the brakes lines have been replaced either. You think there are rubber bits floating around in the lines from the degraded master cylinder grommet?
Drag that you couldn’t get out in it for a first run. But, I’m shocked that, in spite of it all, it's gone so quickly. I had myself strapped in for a six month series. Not sure why, maybe it’s a reflection of my pace. Good on ya for getting it done!
Thanks Bob! The goal was to get this done in just a few weeks once the car arrived. I went slow with the engine on the test stand, but now I have MAC, my 911, at off site storage due to lack of space.
😅 i for see my future🥴 thank you for sharing🙏🏽 in the netherlands we have this quote that roughly translates as: “shared suffering is half the suffering”😅🙏🏽
Hope this video wasn't too negative. Sometimes there is suffering to make things great again. Best of luck on your restoration. My best advice is to walk away when it suffers. That's what I did in this video. Then come back to it fully charged.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto no negativity at all!😄 i know where the mind is in these moments🤯😉 thanks for your attention 🙏🏽 loving and ‘learning from’ your content every single time👊🏽
Hi Tom, sure is coming along, Benji might want to throw in an extra case beer, When you add oil lines to the car, how much more oil is necessary to add or is it...
Ha ha, more beer! Maybe an extra quart or two. This oil tank has a dipstick in it, so it should be easy to check the level once everything warms up and circulates. Most important thing is the level in the tank needs to be several inches above the feed hose that goes to the engine at all times.
Not sure if this applies to MOTEC but when CIS was introduced, the orientation included the system using a "swirl pot" gas tank to help minimize the "clavation starvation" or something like that. You may have to run much more fuel to get it to run right?
Thanks Harvey. I played around with the stock swirl pot from my car in this video: th-cam.com/video/o1GWuAWAV0A/w-d-xo.html I'm sure the carreras have the same or similar device to do as you say; Manage the bubbles from getting sucked into the fuel supply. On my car, I built a custom surge tank and fuel pump assembly inside the tank for best cornering performance and all that jazz. For Benji's car, I agree with you, it's best not to run it on "E" . When I added two more gallons, the car ran much better in this video. This might be on the future upgrade list after Benji gets some miles on it. Maybe i'll put my endoscope camera in there to watch the bubbles.
There is a ductile to brittle transition temperature for steels. Here's an example chart www.tf.uni-kiel.de/matwis/amat/iss/kap_9/illustr/s9_1_1.html This is how you can break a bike lock with liquid nitrogen and a hammer. It's pretty cold for most metals, but as the chart shows it's a curve. Steel is more ductile when heated to it's annealing temperature too. Not quite cherry red, but steel gets softer at around 500F Every time steel is bent past its yield strength it gets work hardened which also makes it more brittle. If you bend a paper clip it get's stronger. Notice how when you try to straighten a paper clip it always bends in a different place. If you straighten it too many times it just breaks. That's classic work hardening/brittle behavior. This bellcrank often gets bent because it sticks out so far. In this case I was the last guy to bend it back and was stuck with a broken part in my hand! I should have removed it first and straightened it on my bench, but that's the gamble we take. I LOST!
Hey Y'all! Thanks for watching. I tried hard to ride off into the sunset on this one, but...NO GO!
Here's more that didn't make the video:
The decklid won't close - the rain tray is attached with some aftermarket hardware and hangs too low. By aftermarket, I mean home depot
The clutch fork clevis pin broke. Yes the original plastic one.
The fuse block screws are broken
Battery is dead.
Pedal box accelerator lever is bent badly, probably because the pedal board and pedal stop are missing
Turn signal markers don't work.
Missing gas tank fuel vent hose
But the good news is 10k people have subscribed! I have a new ahh garage time shirt coming and special video coming soon. So thank you!
Oh the joys of old German cars!!! It's a good thing they're so fun to drive. Every bit of hard work is worth it!!!
Yes, I agree 100%.
Great work Tom. Yes, some days are rough when working on old cars that have been left to sit. Ask me how I know? LoL. Uggggg.
Thanks Jeff. I know I'm not alone. It just hurts to see such a cool car not get the love it deserves.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto So so true! Jag or Porsche.
Engine swaps are always fraught with little issues that take up time, money and effort to resolve. So far, she is lookin good. The test drive should be a blast.
Thanks! I was so looking forward to driving it. I even adjusted my schedule around a rain storm, but just couldn't get there this week.
AND maintaining them, exactly! Great job Tom, keep on it.
Maintenance is key! To add to that periodic inspection!
Looking good. You are absolutely flying through the changeover. Thanks for figuring out the often encountered problems and explaining your ingenious solutions to the fix. The "waking up" of a setting Porsche alone usually takes me 20-30 hours, not including a engine swap!
Thanks Harvey, I tend to think things are easier than they are. After this many years, I should know by now, ha ha. "Waking up" is a fantastic term for this car. Good to hear from you!
Car is looking great!!!! Test drive very soon
Lets hope so!
Great job, you'll get there!
Thanks! Will get there for sure.
Awesome progress Tom! Soon that car will be fully sorted. Also congrats on the 10k subscribers!
Thanks David! Soon I hope. I want to work on my 356!
Congratulations on 10k subs. That old fuel line was a disaster in the making. Whole thing could have gone up in smoke. Nice work.
That's what I was thinking. Good thing I checked for leaks before I fired it up because it sprayed right next to the spark plugs/wires and then dripped onto the headers.
As a 912 that is the suction line, but still dangerous.
tom, thanks for being so patient with the car. i've been in that situation several times and it could be very frustrating. just when you thought things were going along smoothly, a monkey wrench gets thrown at you. i couldn't sleep last night and kept on thinking what else could possibly go wrong. anyway, my apologies and thanks again for all your help.
and congratulations on the 10K subscribers!!! :)
It's only metal as I often say. And everything is fixable. This project needs more than I expected for a quick turn around. Will just need to get it to a good handover point so you can enjoy some fun too! It's no fun having a perfect car.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto thank you tom!!!
Like you said, the old brakes usually have swollen flex lines. With the condition of the rubber on the master cylinder, they may be part of the problem. .
As far as I can tell, the rubber fuel lines have never been replaced on this car, so I doubt the brakes lines have been replaced either. You think there are rubber bits floating around in the lines from the degraded master cylinder grommet?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto You are right. It may need a flush before hooking back up the calipers to get out the possible chunks..
Drag that you couldn’t get out in it for a first run. But, I’m shocked that, in spite of it all, it's gone so quickly. I had myself strapped in for a six month series. Not sure why, maybe it’s a reflection of my pace. Good on ya for getting it done!
Thanks Bob! The goal was to get this done in just a few weeks once the car arrived. I went slow with the engine on the test stand, but now I have MAC, my 911, at off site storage due to lack of space.
Awesome video! I'm hoping I don't have to rework my fuel return bung but if I do this will come in handy.
Cool, lots of ways to do this. Please check your fuel line in the engine bay! Major safety concern.
😅 i for see my future🥴 thank you for sharing🙏🏽 in the netherlands we have this quote that roughly translates as: “shared suffering is half the suffering”😅🙏🏽
Hope this video wasn't too negative. Sometimes there is suffering to make things great again. Best of luck on your restoration. My best advice is to walk away when it suffers. That's what I did in this video. Then come back to it fully charged.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto no negativity at all!😄 i know where the mind is in these moments🤯😉 thanks for your attention 🙏🏽 loving and ‘learning from’ your content every single time👊🏽
Hi Tom, sure is coming along, Benji might want to throw in an extra case beer, When you add oil lines to the car, how much more oil is necessary to add or is it...
Ha ha, more beer!
Maybe an extra quart or two. This oil tank has a dipstick in it, so it should be easy to check the level once everything warms up and circulates.
Most important thing is the level in the tank needs to be several inches above the feed hose that goes to the engine at all times.
you're absolutely correct, martin! tom, what's your favorite brand of beer?
Not sure if this applies to MOTEC but when CIS was introduced, the orientation included the system using a "swirl pot" gas tank to help minimize the "clavation starvation" or something like that. You may have to run much more fuel to get it to run right?
Thanks Harvey. I played around with the stock swirl pot from my car in this video:
th-cam.com/video/o1GWuAWAV0A/w-d-xo.html
I'm sure the carreras have the same or similar device to do as you say; Manage the bubbles from getting sucked into the fuel supply.
On my car, I built a custom surge tank and fuel pump assembly inside the tank for best cornering performance and all that jazz.
For Benji's car, I agree with you, it's best not to run it on "E" .
When I added two more gallons, the car ran much better in this video. This might be on the future upgrade list after Benji gets some miles on it. Maybe i'll put my endoscope camera in there to watch the bubbles.
I have usually found that the transmission bell crank stud bends when cold but need heat to straighten. As a engineer, would yo explain that?
There is a ductile to brittle transition temperature for steels. Here's an example chart
www.tf.uni-kiel.de/matwis/amat/iss/kap_9/illustr/s9_1_1.html
This is how you can break a bike lock with liquid nitrogen and a hammer. It's pretty cold for most metals, but as the chart shows it's a curve.
Steel is more ductile when heated to it's annealing temperature too. Not quite cherry red, but steel gets softer at around 500F
Every time steel is bent past its yield strength it gets work hardened which also makes it more brittle. If you bend a paper clip it get's stronger. Notice how when you try to straighten a paper clip it always bends in a different place. If you straighten it too many times it just breaks. That's classic work hardening/brittle behavior.
This bellcrank often gets bent because it sticks out so far. In this case I was the last guy to bend it back and was stuck with a broken part in my hand!
I should have removed it first and straightened it on my bench, but that's the gamble we take. I LOST!
rust... can't say I'm surprised. :P
Ha ha, rust never sleeps