Looks like there’s definitely a learning curve to these molds. I’ve had some words with deep pinned hollow point molds. I’ll have to try some of that spray graphite. Thanks for making the video!
Since there was so much interest in this slug, I figured I'd let people know what they may experience before they figure theirs out. I had it working great, and then forgot what was working. Just remember that the graphite takes up a little space. Not much, but be careful if your mold already casts small bullets.
If you get a separate hot plate you can keep the mold and core pin hot enough by adjusting the temperature control getting them ready beforehand and preventing cooling of the mold and pin if you get interrupted while casting.
Let’s see the finished product 🤪 I cast 7/8 lee slugs 🐌 and don’t have any trouble getting them out of the mold. But they are different then the ones you have there.
I got excited and a but ahead of myself here. I hadn't quite gfigured out the leaning curve of these molds just yet. You have to run at ~900F and the core pin needs to be heat soaked for good fill out of the driving bands and easy pin extraction (any burrs on the core pin will make for a bad day). Using the right wad makes a big difference BPI BRP-12 (Gualandi BRP 20). I have videos on them and Taofledermaus has some videos with the 6 petal and 3 petal versions. Look for the ones attached to the proper green wad.
I have a gas stove and open the moulds a little to expose inside and let them heat up over a low to medium flame a while, then beeswax lube the recommended spots and usually get good castings within 5 or so pours.
horn410 sent me a link to a channel with videos on casting these slugs. The videos are in Russian, but we should be able to learn something from them. th-cam.com/channels/199AFCnuQJdkjW0ycsESMA.htmlvideos Since there's so much interest in this slug, I thought that I'd show what people might go through while sorting things out. You may have a different experience. The head on #6 wood screws is too big.
@@horn410 Thank you Now if only there were English subtitles. I had even more trouble when I let the mold cool like that. It must have something to do with temperature. How hot should the lead be?
Appreciate the new vids...Still waiting on my AS, Ordered the lee 1oz as well.Made like 1000 or so on the lee 7/8, But that AS looks like it might be a challenge! Keep em coming psyko!👍🏻
I forget who did the research, but they found that the Lee 7/8 oz is actually better balanced than the 1 oz. The AS is a bit more of a challenge, but the slugs it produces are on a different level. I'm sure that I'm missing something that will eventually fall into place.
Hey dude, I believe what you are experiencing is spout time(The time it takes the material to go through the spout) and fill the mold, I have a completely different casting furnace, however, I run my heat at about 740-760 deg, I get good fill out and consistency, when the casting is hot, it becomes fragile because the material isn't set up yet, that explains the cracks you have been getting. anyway, that's my two cents. good video - Dave
Thanks, I'll have to experiment more with temps. I was having fill out problems at lower temps, but maybe there were other factors involved. For me, these molds tend to be more fussy, and I know there's something that I'm missing to make it cast better/more easily, and that's why I asked for input form people with more experience. That should help others get good results without going through some of what I've experienced.
Thanks I'll definitely try that temp range. horn410 sent a link to a Russian channel casting what appear to be 4 segment slugs, and he makes it look easy. Unfortunately I couldn't find anything about his lead temps. Once I get it right I'll post a correction video.
I am now. I tried following ASM's instructions of starting hot and turning it down, but found that didn't work as well as keeping it hot. They later said that the sprue should take awhile to harden, which tells me to keep it hot. At those temps it's pretty easy to remove them too quickly and crack them at the base.
You'll want to ask someone more experienced than me. I'm using a KSG (my first shotgun). I have a H&K PPP, but I'd need a tall comb riser to use. Red dot or scope on it. I'm looking for a tactical style stock for it
I think I may have misinterpreted your question. If you mean which slug(s), then most, if not all Russian slugs seem to be designed for smooth bore. Have you seen this TFM video th-cam.com/video/xW3UOLrDRB4/w-d-xo.html ? The rifled barrel caused the slug to be defeated by Kevlar, but it was a completely different story when using a smooth bore. Not to mention that those slugs fragmented at subsonic speeds. It really depends what you want to use them for. It's a $22 difference between getting one core pin and getting all four.
I'm working on a correction video we speak. There's a little more to casting these than I was aware of. I haven't mastered the mold yet (getting better though)...and my battery died, so I'm STILL working on it.
Dude, I'm sitting here cracking up. That hole in the index finger of your right glove tells me you've had a time with this mold! I make thousands of Svarog slugs, and have at least seven pairs of gloves with the exact same hole in the exact same place. It comes from having to tug them off the pin. I promise you, if you haven't already done so, you will destroy the threads in the nosecone of your core pin if you keep wiggling it like that. Usually, what makes them difficult to remove (after they're hot) is that the screw at the bottom of the core pin loosens, allowing lead to seep between the nosecone base and the pin. You have to break that lead free to release. Of course, bent, dirty or burred blades will also cause sticking. Lose that maul and open by hand as often as you can. I've had to drill and tap new holes in two of my Svarog molds because the sprue plate bolts kept stripping out. The wad for these slugs is the green BRP-12.
I eventually learned to run lead around 900F to get the driving bands to fill out reliably, and the sprues cut my hand. I did snap the pin off the tip of the core pin of my Svarog mold. I haven't had any screw strip out though. There's definitely a bit of a learning curve to these molds but it's worth it. I prefer the AS molds over Svarog. It was hard to get the BRP12 wads, so I had to buy 5k. It sure would be nice if Gualandi had another distributor besides BPI.
@@psykoklown874 Man thanks for your videos I’m trying to order one of these molds now I’ve been looking for something like this for a long time after seeing Toufledermous vid I was sold! Never would have seen it without you thanks man.👍
@@marknelson3511 Thanks for watching. Glad I was able to help. Not sure if you saw, but TFM made two videos about the 6 segment Twister. Do yourself a favor and get the green BRP-12 (Gualandi BRP 20) wads from BPI. They're more robust, and the lip is shorter than the Original Brush Wads (Gualandi BRP 18). The slugs are designed to fit them perfectly.
Вы не правильно делаете движения при литье пуль!!!Если вы так будете делать,то вы её сломаете!!!С вами свяжется представитель фирмы у которой вы купили данный товар (после 12 мая) You don't make the correct movements when casting bullets!!!If you do that,you'll break it!!!You will be contacted by a representative of the company from which you purchased this product (after may 12)
Cool. It has to do with movement? I thought it might be more about temperature of the lead or the mold. It would be good for them to add helpful tips like this to their site. Svarog has started to put together a help section on their site, and I think that AS should do the same. That way idiots like me will be less likely to do stupid things.
@@horn410 I will. I've also added the link to my pinned comment and video description. Is there any way we can get either English language or even just subtitled videos? That would really help.
@@horn410 He doesn't say much in the slug casting videos. Unfortunately couldn't pick up as much as I'd like from the other videos because I don't understand Russian. The most important information would be the best temperature for the lead alloy. everything else can be learned from watching him. At one point it was almost that easy for me, but I was pulling the pin right away. Very strange, but it somehow worked, and I made a lot of slugs during that time.
@@psykoklown874 I will inform the management,they will make an English translation or subtitles. I realized that you became better at making bullets after watching a video from Russia?
Looks like there’s definitely a learning curve to these molds. I’ve had some words with deep pinned hollow point molds. I’ll have to try some of that spray graphite. Thanks for making the video!
Since there was so much interest in this slug, I figured I'd let people know what they may experience before they figure theirs out. I had it working great, and then forgot what was working. Just remember that the graphite takes up a little space. Not much, but be careful if your mold already casts small bullets.
Saw your slugs on TFM - you get credit/blame for me wishing to purchase this mold. ;-)
I'll take it. For a bit more, get all 4 core pins if you want options to play with. They definitely do some damage.
If you get a separate hot plate you can keep the mold and core pin hot enough by adjusting the temperature control getting them ready beforehand and preventing cooling of the mold and pin if you get interrupted while casting.
Let’s see the finished product 🤪
I cast 7/8 lee slugs 🐌 and don’t have any trouble getting them out of the mold. But they are different then the ones you have there.
I got excited and a but ahead of myself here. I hadn't quite gfigured out the leaning curve of these molds just yet.
You have to run at ~900F and the core pin needs to be heat soaked for good fill out of the driving bands and easy pin extraction (any burrs on the core pin will make for a bad day).
Using the right wad makes a big difference BPI BRP-12 (Gualandi BRP 20).
I have videos on them and Taofledermaus has some videos with the 6 petal and 3 petal versions. Look for the ones attached to the proper green wad.
I have a gas stove and open the moulds a little to expose inside and let them heat up over a low to medium flame a while, then beeswax lube the recommended spots and usually get good castings within 5 or so pours.
Thanks for the tip.
@@psykoklown874 once in a while I do come up with a tip. Been reloading 40+years.
@@jeffw1246 Nice. I've only been at it for 6 years, so every tip is welcome. Knowledge is power.
horn410 sent me a link to a channel with videos on casting these slugs. The videos are in Russian, but we should be able to learn something from them.
th-cam.com/channels/199AFCnuQJdkjW0ycsESMA.htmlvideos
Since there's so much interest in this slug, I thought that I'd show what people might go through while sorting things out.
You may have a different experience.
The head on #6 wood screws is too big.
Video instructions On how to make bullets correctly!!! .th-cam.com/channels/199AFCnuQJdkjW0ycsESMA.html
@@horn410 Thank you
Now if only there were English subtitles.
I had even more trouble when I let the mold cool like that. It must have something to do with temperature. How hot should the lead be?
Well this is quality information video. But why painting them orange?
It's camouflage so the deer don't see them coming.😆
They're powder coated to reduce leading. Probably not as necessary for slugs.
Where can I get one of these AS Twister molds ?
The company is in Russia. as-molds.com/
Appreciate the new vids...Still waiting on my AS, Ordered the lee 1oz as well.Made like 1000 or so on the lee 7/8, But that AS looks like it might be a challenge! Keep em coming psyko!👍🏻
I forget who did the research, but they found that the Lee 7/8 oz is actually better balanced than the 1 oz. The AS is a bit more of a challenge, but the slugs it produces are on a different level. I'm sure that I'm missing something that will eventually fall into place.
Hey dude, I believe what you are experiencing is spout time(The time it takes the material to go through the spout) and fill the mold, I have a completely different casting furnace, however, I run my heat at about 740-760 deg, I get good fill out and consistency, when the casting is hot, it becomes fragile because the material isn't set up yet, that explains the cracks you have been getting. anyway, that's my two cents. good video - Dave
Thanks, I'll have to experiment more with temps. I was having fill out problems at lower temps, but maybe there were other factors involved.
For me, these molds tend to be more fussy, and I know there's something that I'm missing to make it cast better/more easily, and that's why I asked for input form people with more experience.
That should help others get good results without going through some of what I've experienced.
Thanks I'll definitely try that temp range.
horn410 sent a link to a Russian channel casting what appear to be 4 segment slugs, and he makes it look easy. Unfortunately I couldn't find anything about his lead temps. Once I get it right I'll post a correction video.
you are running your lead temp at 900+ degrees?
I am now. I tried following ASM's instructions of starting hot and turning it down, but found that didn't work as well as keeping it hot. They later said that the sprue should take awhile to harden, which tells me to keep it hot. At those temps it's pretty easy to remove them too quickly and crack them at the base.
What do you recommend for smooth bore shotguns?
You'll want to ask someone more experienced than me. I'm using a KSG (my first shotgun). I have a H&K PPP, but I'd need a tall comb riser to use. Red dot or scope on it. I'm looking for a tactical style stock for it
I think I may have misinterpreted your question. If you mean which slug(s), then most, if not all Russian slugs seem to be designed for smooth bore. Have you seen this TFM video th-cam.com/video/xW3UOLrDRB4/w-d-xo.html ? The rifled barrel caused the slug to be defeated by Kevlar, but it was a completely different story when using a smooth bore. Not to mention that those slugs fragmented at subsonic speeds. It really depends what you want to use them for. It's a $22 difference between getting one core pin and getting all four.
Got my mold on the way.
I'm working on a correction video we speak. There's a little more to casting these than I was aware of. I haven't mastered the mold yet (getting better though)...and my battery died, so I'm STILL working on it.
Dude, I'm sitting here cracking up. That hole in the index finger of your right glove tells me you've had a time with this mold! I make thousands of Svarog slugs, and have at least seven pairs of gloves with the exact same hole in the exact same place. It comes from having to tug them off the pin. I promise you, if you haven't already done so, you will destroy the threads in the nosecone of your core pin if you keep wiggling it like that. Usually, what makes them difficult to remove (after they're hot) is that the screw at the bottom of the core pin loosens, allowing lead to seep between the nosecone base and the pin. You have to break that lead free to release. Of course, bent, dirty or burred blades will also cause sticking. Lose that maul and open by hand as often as you can. I've had to drill and tap new holes in two of my Svarog molds because the sprue plate bolts kept stripping out. The wad for these slugs is the green BRP-12.
I eventually learned to run lead around 900F to get the driving bands to fill out reliably, and the sprues cut my hand. I did snap the pin off the tip of the core pin of my Svarog mold. I haven't had any screw strip out though. There's definitely a bit of a learning curve to these molds but it's worth it. I prefer the AS molds over Svarog. It was hard to get the BRP12 wads, so I had to buy 5k. It sure would be nice if Gualandi had another distributor besides BPI.
Dip. Your pin in your lead pot and it will melt right off.
You've got a point there.
@@psykoklown874 Man thanks for your videos I’m trying to order one of these molds now I’ve been looking for something like this for a long time after seeing Toufledermous vid I was sold! Never would have seen it without you thanks man.👍
@@marknelson3511 Thanks for watching. Glad I was able to help. Not sure if you saw, but TFM made two videos about the 6 segment Twister. Do yourself a favor and get the green BRP-12 (Gualandi BRP 20) wads from BPI. They're more robust, and the lip is shorter than the Original Brush Wads (Gualandi BRP 18). The slugs are designed to fit them perfectly.
Вы не правильно делаете движения при литье пуль!!!Если вы так будете делать,то вы её сломаете!!!С вами свяжется представитель фирмы у которой вы купили данный товар (после 12 мая) You don't make the correct movements when casting bullets!!!If you do that,you'll break it!!!You will be contacted by a representative of the company from which you purchased this product (after may 12)
Cool. It has to do with movement? I thought it might be more about temperature of the lead or the mold. It would be good for them to add helpful tips like this to their site. Svarog has started to put together a help section on their site, and I think that AS should do the same. That way idiots like me will be less likely to do stupid things.
@@psykoklown874 Watch the videos I sent you!!! ПРИВЕТ вам из РОССИИ!!!)))
@@horn410 I will. I've also added the link to my pinned comment and video description.
Is there any way we can get either English language or even just subtitled videos? That would really help.
@@horn410 He doesn't say much in the slug casting videos. Unfortunately couldn't pick up as much as I'd like from the other videos because I don't understand Russian. The most important information would be the best temperature for the lead alloy. everything else can be learned from watching him.
At one point it was almost that easy for me, but I was pulling the pin right away. Very strange, but it somehow worked, and I made a lot of slugs during that time.
@@psykoklown874 I will inform the management,they will make an English translation or subtitles. I realized that you became better at making bullets after watching a video from Russia?
Enough got dam yapping