Nice to hear that engine operation is an important issue for normal after-treatment operation. I too teach the engine must be running normally for the after treatment can work properly.
Thanks for dropping the knowledge on us Tony. I watched the old vid from 2016 and this one as well to get a little help on an off-road diesel engine. I have a feeling it's been excessively idled and the DOC is plugged up, heat backs up and kicks it out of regen. All happens within 10 seconds after you hear the engine sound change and it starts injecting fuel. You see about 450f difference as well. Thanks again!
Sir. I've got a 2014 Ram 3500HD with the 6.7, 180,000 miles. Runs very well even after MY WIFE FILLED UP WITH 87 OCTANE and was limped home, 10 miles until it died. I removed the gas, cleaned everything out, replaced filters, filling up the engine filter with Mystery oil and tank with seafoam. Then all was back to running great again. No worries about the gas fill up. Then I started getting the alerts. "Exhaust filter 100%" and "DEF system needs to go to the dealer so your wallet empties" alert. I'm at 50 miles until limp mode. Thinking of deleting, I removed everything including the def system and installed the straight pipe. Looked for a tuner I can afford but, while everything was out of the truck I cleaned the exhaust filter very well along with the DEF part (can't remember the title of that part of the exhaust) and then the whole def system as well. Emptied the tank, cleaned the injector, the lines, everything that could have water go through it, I cleaned until it was clean clear water coming out of it. Thinking now of replacing everything and holding off on the delete. With me explaining the 87 octane and what I've done now, what's your opinion of what I've done. I'm heading to the shop now, truck on my lift and replacing everything to stock. Your opinion of what I've got going please?...... The alerts happening after the gasoline? Am I better off deleting? Thank you sir.
Big issue but this is where a scan tool is needed. You need to have a scan with a manufacturer equivalent capability to know what codes are set. This tells the story why you have issues but to also have it reset. Autozone FreeBee scan doesn’t cut it. What part of the world you in? Maybe I know a good shop near you.
@@dieseltalkwithtonysalas8725 Are you talking about a code reader? I have one. Or are you talking about the one like what you've got? I don't have one of those. It would be nice though. What is that reader you have and how much are they? What I'm thinking is the gasoline screwed up sensors or the filter was clogged by the exhaust being gasoline oppose to the diesel. ? When I say "limped home" is because it was running like it had gasoline in the system instead of diesel. It ran like sh.... But, after I got it all cleaned up and proper fuel in the system again with the new filters and such, it runs fine now. Just had the alerts of the exhaust filter being 100% full and the DEF needed to go to the dealer, which is 75 miles of my quite rural area I live. Regardless, I work on my own vehicles with my professional shop I've got. Just ignorance with the diesel and the new crap on them especially. I mean, I've got a couple roll aways filled with more in other storage. (just saying I know how to turn a wrench with guidance from someone like you when I come across a situation)
quick question, Is it not true that on a 2014 to 2016 LML with recently replaced NOx sensors (both or one), you have to run a regeneration regardless of the grams of soot in order to reset the Nox sensors? Also, you cannot run a RQFT, after Nox sensor replacement, until the DPF regeneration is done.....are these true statements?
ACTUALLY I would run the regeneration before replacing the NOX sensor. However, grams of soot or soot mass is a calculation. The reason why we run a regeneration is because there can be DEF fluid accumulation in the NOX catalyst fooling NOX sensor 2. Need heat to clear the DEF WHICH CHANGES TO AMMONIA that breaks up the NOX. The heat is brought about by running a regeneration. As for RFQT, YOU can do it anytime you want, but ideally after a regeneration. You run a RFQT when a repair has been done on the related after treatment issue and the truck is in derate. If you run a RFQT IT SHOULD CLEAR DERATE within 15 minutes. If doesn’t check for related codes. If no codes are set, may need to update ECM software and reflash.
Hello Tony, very informative and great video. Thank You for this. I learned quite a bit. I'd like to touch on one thing you mentioned and that is about fuel additives. First off, I drive a 2021 Dodge 2500 Big Horn 6.7l Cummins. My manual states that I can use certain additives to the fuel as long as it meets their parameters, and they state them. Power Service Kleen is one of them based on the low sulfur content it supposedly has and/or reduces but with a cetane boost. I do agree with you on oil changes. I just changed my oil and oil filter for the second time, and it has 6000 miles on it. I also changed the fuel filters for the first time. Note that my rear fuel filter was very dirty compared to my front fuel filter and my oil was very dirty. Dodge recommends using 10w-30 Shell Rotella T5 or 5w-40. Why they do not recommend 15w-40 I don't know. Anyways, could you please touch on the fuel additives such as power kleen and how they can hurt or help the EGR, DPF, or SCR on the exhaust system and what should normally drive temp ranges be if you use a monitor like an Edge CTS3. Thanks
Nice to hear that engine operation is an important issue for normal after-treatment operation. I too teach the engine must be running normally for the after treatment can work properly.
Thank you we agree!
I have a training website
www.powertraintraining.com
The best videos! So informative😃Greetings from Sweden
Thanks for dropping the knowledge on us Tony. I watched the old vid from 2016 and this one as well to get a little help on an off-road diesel engine. I have a feeling it's been excessively idled and the DOC is plugged up, heat backs up and kicks it out of regen. All happens within 10 seconds after you hear the engine sound change and it starts injecting fuel. You see about 450f difference as well. Thanks again!
Welcome! Appreciate the feedback!
Really good information
Keep them coming
Rob
Sir.
I've got a 2014 Ram 3500HD with the 6.7, 180,000 miles. Runs very well even after MY WIFE FILLED UP WITH 87 OCTANE and was limped home, 10 miles until it died.
I removed the gas, cleaned everything out, replaced filters, filling up the engine filter with Mystery oil and tank with seafoam. Then all was back to running great again. No worries about the gas fill up.
Then I started getting the alerts. "Exhaust filter 100%" and "DEF system needs to go to the dealer so your wallet empties" alert. I'm at 50 miles until limp mode.
Thinking of deleting, I removed everything including the def system and installed the straight pipe. Looked for a tuner I can afford but, while everything was out of the truck I cleaned the exhaust filter very well along with the DEF part (can't remember the title of that part of the exhaust) and then the whole def system as well. Emptied the tank, cleaned the injector, the lines, everything that could have water go through it, I cleaned until it was clean clear water coming out of it.
Thinking now of replacing everything and holding off on the delete.
With me explaining the 87 octane and what I've done now, what's your opinion of what I've done. I'm heading to the shop now, truck on my lift and replacing everything to stock.
Your opinion of what I've got going please?...... The alerts happening after the gasoline? Am I better off deleting?
Thank you sir.
Big issue but this is where a scan tool is needed. You need to have a scan with a manufacturer equivalent capability to know what codes are set. This tells the story why you have issues but to also have it reset. Autozone FreeBee scan doesn’t cut it. What part of the world you in? Maybe I know a good shop near you.
@@dieseltalkwithtonysalas8725 Are you talking about a code reader? I have one. Or are you talking about the one like what you've got? I don't have one of those. It would be nice though. What is that reader you have and how much are they?
What I'm thinking is the gasoline screwed up sensors or the filter was clogged by the exhaust being gasoline oppose to the diesel. ?
When I say "limped home" is because it was running like it had gasoline in the system instead of diesel. It ran like sh.... But, after I got it all cleaned up and proper fuel in the system again with the new filters and such, it runs fine now. Just had the alerts of the exhaust filter being 100% full and the DEF needed to go to the dealer, which is 75 miles of my quite rural area I live. Regardless, I work on my own vehicles with my professional shop I've got. Just ignorance with the diesel and the new crap on them especially. I mean, I've got a couple roll aways filled with more in other storage. (just saying I know how to turn a wrench with guidance from someone like you when I come across a situation)
Thank you sir, very informative.
Thanks! Happy New Year!
I looked all under my truck couldn't find any of them fancy pipe things in there just a pipe with a big muffler it's nice having a 1993 truck.
Thats a good thing!
Thanks for watching!
quick question, Is it not true that on a 2014 to 2016 LML with recently replaced NOx sensors (both or one), you have to run a regeneration regardless of the grams of soot in order to reset the Nox sensors? Also, you cannot run a RQFT, after Nox sensor replacement, until the DPF regeneration is done.....are these true statements?
ACTUALLY I would run the regeneration before replacing the NOX sensor. However, grams of soot or soot mass is a calculation. The reason why we run a regeneration is because there can be DEF fluid accumulation in the NOX catalyst fooling NOX sensor 2. Need heat to clear the DEF WHICH CHANGES TO AMMONIA that breaks up the NOX. The heat is brought about by running a regeneration.
As for RFQT, YOU can do it anytime you want, but ideally after a regeneration. You run a RFQT when a repair has been done on the related after treatment issue and the truck is in derate. If you run a RFQT IT SHOULD CLEAR DERATE within 15 minutes. If doesn’t check for related codes. If no codes are set, may need to update ECM software and reflash.
thankyou for response!!!!!
Hello Tony, very informative and great video. Thank You for this. I learned quite a bit.
I'd like to touch on one thing you mentioned and that is about fuel additives. First off, I drive a 2021 Dodge 2500 Big Horn 6.7l Cummins. My manual states that I can use certain additives to the fuel as long as it meets their parameters, and they state them. Power Service Kleen is one of them based on the low sulfur content it supposedly has and/or reduces but with a cetane boost. I do agree with you on oil changes. I just changed my oil and oil filter for the second time, and it has 6000 miles on it. I also changed the fuel filters for the first time. Note that my rear fuel filter was very dirty compared to my front fuel filter and my oil was very dirty. Dodge recommends using 10w-30 Shell Rotella T5 or 5w-40. Why they do not recommend 15w-40 I don't know. Anyways, could you please touch on the fuel additives such as power kleen and how they can hurt or help the EGR, DPF, or SCR on the exhaust system and what should normally drive temp ranges be if you use a monitor like an Edge CTS3. Thanks
I’m a fan of Stanadyne, Alliant Power fuel additives and BG 245 as a cleaner.
Your fine with 10w30
Nice
Ram 5500 6.7l P24A2 what data pid's should I be looking at to isolate the problem? Regen not completing