This video was very helpful in that it taught me to not pretend i could ever do this and to bring my board to a professional 😂 Awesome work! You have incredible skill.
I got a tip for ya with the acid brush bristles. I use those things a lot for work too being a plumber. Whenever I get new brushes I run a thin cyanoacrylate glue down at the base of the bristles to keep em from screwing up my solder joints! Not sure how that glue affects the resin you're using but it works wonders for what I do. Best of luck!
I love this and if you don't like that you can still see it you can just slap a sticker over it and it is still fixed. Very helpful and interesting at the same time. I would love to learn how to become a shaper.
The repair turned out great. And i find it a great video to display how to easily fix a deep ding on the board which is not on the rail, even though that would be rather similiar. There is one thing I don't understand. Why do you/we opt for a filler made from resin and foam pearls while fixing a Polyurethane-Foam board (if it is one). Wouldnt it make more sense to use Polyurethane to fill the gab, the density should be rather identical. Using a homemade mixture holds the risk of beeing more dense and much harder than the original material. We actually would compromise the internal structure of the board and may unbalance it ever so slightly. Would appreciate a qualified answer. ( You can buy white Polyurethane- in spray cans)
I’ve always used it because its the industry standard. But I always like to try new materials (especially if they cure faster) does the polyurethane tube material expand and harden? I’ve used expanding insulating foam to fill big holes in EPS (on SUPs) and had great results.
Thank you for your fast response. I can't tell for certain. The traditionel yellow foam does harden to a point where you'll be able to cut it with a knife ( same as the board blanks). So i assume it would be the same for the white foam. Suppose you'll have to try it out first. Best to try it out on a piece of pu-foam, so you get some insight how the result would look like and how well it will stick.
You feather the edges to make it look flush, then add another layer of resin and feather that too. It’s never actually flush, but to the human eye it appears like it is.
Thanks for that! So I got a problem, when I put the filler, the original polystyrene are melting, a small hole turning a big empty hole! Tho fix if I had to put an expanding foam, but I got a delamination!
You gave a pro tip that sanding resin is just polyester resin with paraffin wax added to it. Do you have a wax to resin ratio that I can use to make some sanding resin?
No dip needed. The fiberglass patch is always going to be a tiny bit elevated in the end, but shouldn't be noticeable if you are using 4oz cloth. The key is to sand the edges of the fiberglass flush with the board, without sanding into the original fiberglass.
I need to fix my Paddle boarding what should I use I have a big space empty inside please can you just help me what kind of thinks I should use thank you I’m going to send paper and stuff I just don’t know what kind of material should I use it
Great question!! If it's a big hole, do NOT fill it with resin of any kind. Doing so will melt more of the foam! Instead, fill the hole with "Great Stuff Gaps and Cracks Insulating Foam" (can buy at home depot or on amazon). Sand it to the shape you need, apply a patch of heavy duty (6+ oz) fiberglass and epoxy resin. Once it cures, it should be rigid (you should not be able to make an indent by pushing your finger into it) if its not, apply another patch of fiberglass and resin.
Not talking about the color but around the edge of the qcell there’s a distinct border. Almost where it tapers off, is there a way to blend it in or will you always see a hard edge?
Nice work really enjoying the vids! Glad you are staying safe with some good PPE while working. I like the flight suit...Pilot is your day job? Is there a reason for not adding resin to the edges of the glass patch? Does that make it easier to feather the edges?
I've seen recommended to use a waxed poly resin for filler, and an unwaxed for laminating. Which do you use, and have you found the other necessary at all?
It keeps everything tidier. Essentially, it's easier to see where to grind and feather the edge of the patch. Plus it saves time and money as an alternative to using tape.
Hey Ron, yes I rinse brushes with acetone. Try using three separate buckets to clean your brushes. Bucket 1 = very dirty acetone, 2 medium and 3 is somewhat clean. By the time you rinse your brushes in all three buckets it should be clean enough to reuse. I'll get 3-5 uses out of a single brush.
hay man nice vids i learn a lot from them. one question , when you lay the glass matt down you only wet the center of the matt, is this to keep the resin from running or easier to sand etc?
fiberglasssource.com/collections/respirators-facemasks/products/half-mask-resperator-3m-7503-large fiberglasssource.com/collections/respirators-facemasks/products/3m-6003-organic-vapor-acid-gas-cartridge fiberglasssource.com/collections/respirators-facemasks/products/dust-filters-3m-pink-2-pack First is the mask, second is the filter I used to use for everything, until I learned that the dust filters are better for sanding (3rd link).
Do you ever have issues using polyester resin to fix boards originally made with epoxy resin? I have multiple issues with the way you went about this lol. Good job tho !
Oh ya. You cannot use polyester resin on EPS foam. Sorry dude everyone makes that mistake once! I have a full video on what resin goes on what foam if you want to make sure you don’t do it again.
Wet out all of the cloth, to avoid having to sand away dry cloth later!! Way more dangerously fine airborne glass particles than sanding wetted cloth that's cured. Those fine dry cloth sanded fibres will hang around your work area.
Maybe explain what a block is, or what part your talking about, or what guide powder is, or what the lows is, and then it will be a helpful comment cause I have no clue wtf u just said
@@aidanmyles2138 a block would be a flat block in which to adhere the required grade of sand paper or wet and dry paper, guide powder or panel black is a black chalk that when rubbed on the surface you are flatting it will highlight the low areas enabling you to effectively sand down from course grade to fine grade and visually see the scratches so as not to not to sand down unevenly or blow through the applied glass epoxy layer
Easier to sand?... Your ding looks perfect so maybe not making a difference..Does anybody else know?... Hey , great job..Its a thumbs up!.. I m just a hairdresser!₩
could have done it in a way that looked better and much quicker using q cell , solarez with some tint and you wouldnt be able to see it, your method is only necessary for structural points, rails tails noses, not on a large flat area on the bottom, didnt need all that and the repair was very obvious, with color matching you wouldnt notice it
Eh I disagree. Solarez almost always cracks overtime. Not to mention color matching white is a pain in the ass and not always exact, especially with resin tinted board. If your board is glassed clear your almost always going to notice even if it’s color-matched because the tint is above the glass. IMO a large patch where there is a lot of foam missing is always a necessity.
This video was very helpful in that it taught me to not pretend i could ever do this and to bring my board to a professional 😂 Awesome work! You have incredible skill.
I got a tip for ya with the acid brush bristles. I use those things a lot for work too being a plumber. Whenever I get new brushes I run a thin cyanoacrylate glue down at the base of the bristles to keep em from screwing up my solder joints! Not sure how that glue affects the resin you're using but it works wonders for what I do. Best of luck!
Nice I appreciate the tip, will have to try it out!
I love this and if you don't like that you can still see it you can just slap a sticker over it and it is still fixed. Very helpful and interesting at the same time. I would love to learn how to become a shaper.
Rounding the edges on those patches will facilitate the sanding process
Oh wow! You slather that on there big boy! I’ll be doing mine in a parking lot- you’re a lord
It puts the resin on the skin of else it gets the sandpaper again
Best repair videos I've found. The pneumatic sander sounds like I'm at the dentist, haha.
Thanks dude! Glad you liked it. Don't forget to floss.
Amazing skill you have. You are a perfectionist.
This was both helpful and interesting to watch. Thanks!
The repair turned out great. And i find it a great video to display how to easily fix a deep ding on the board which is not on the rail, even though that would be rather similiar. There is one thing I don't understand. Why do you/we opt for a filler made from resin and foam pearls while fixing a Polyurethane-Foam board (if it is one). Wouldnt it make more sense to use Polyurethane to fill the gab, the density should be rather identical. Using a homemade mixture holds the risk of beeing more dense and much harder than the original material. We actually would compromise the internal structure of the board and may unbalance it ever so slightly. Would appreciate a qualified answer. ( You can buy white Polyurethane- in spray cans)
I’ve always used it because its the industry standard. But I always like to try new materials (especially if they cure faster) does the polyurethane tube material expand and harden? I’ve used expanding insulating foam to fill big holes in EPS (on SUPs) and had great results.
Thank you for your fast response. I can't tell for certain. The traditionel yellow foam does harden to a point where you'll be able to cut it with a knife ( same as the board blanks). So i assume it would be the same for the white foam. Suppose you'll have to try it out first. Best to try it out on a piece of pu-foam, so you get some insight how the result would look like and how well it will stick.
I always yes foam on foam . Resin and filler gets heavy after a while , but it’s fast and easier like he said .,
When you lay the fiberglass patch down, how do you sand the patch flush without sanding through the patch?
You feather the edges to make it look flush, then add another layer of resin and feather that too. It’s never actually flush, but to the human eye it appears like it is.
Can I use sanding paper for all those times you had a machine
Yep
Thanks for that!
So I got a problem, when I put the filler, the original polystyrene are melting, a small hole turning a big empty hole!
Tho fix if I had to put an expanding foam, but I got a delamination!
beautiful & satisfying
This video was super helpful. Thank you!
Good work, i like to tape off the patch to minimize adding weight and reduces time sanding. Your patch still came out perfect though!
Thanks Daniel!
I hope you catalized the resin before adding the qcell
Great job thanks man!!!
You gave a pro tip that sanding resin is just polyester resin with paraffin wax added to it. Do you have a wax to resin ratio that I can use to make some sanding resin?
Glad you caught that! It doesn’t have to be very precise. Just a dash of it in an oz of lam resin will work
thank you, this is amazing.
Have you tried Solarez products, they require no mixing
Hello ! how do you dose the microballoon in your first mix? I often feel like it's random.
Have a good day,
Just dump it in until you get the consistency you want. It’s not an exact science. Btw it’s qcell, slight difference between that and microballoons.
@@Rogue_wave thanks a lot for your response
Do you sand a dip in the filler before applying cloth? what stops you sanding all cloth off?
No dip needed. The fiberglass patch is always going to be a tiny bit elevated in the end, but shouldn't be noticeable if you are using 4oz cloth. The key is to sand the edges of the fiberglass flush with the board, without sanding into the original fiberglass.
I need to fix my Paddle boarding what should I use I have a big space empty inside please can you just help me what kind of thinks I should use thank you I’m going to send paper and stuff I just don’t know what kind of material should I use it
Great question!! If it's a big hole, do NOT fill it with resin of any kind. Doing so will melt more of the foam! Instead, fill the hole with "Great Stuff Gaps and Cracks Insulating Foam" (can buy at home depot or on amazon). Sand it to the shape you need, apply a patch of heavy duty (6+ oz) fiberglass and epoxy resin. Once it cures, it should be rigid (you should not be able to make an indent by pushing your finger into it) if its not, apply another patch of fiberglass and resin.
Not talking about the color but around the edge of the qcell there’s a distinct border. Almost where it tapers off, is there a way to blend it in or will you always see a hard edge?
Good question, it depends on how abrupt the cavity starts. Filling a dent will leave a soft edge, filling a gash will leave a hard edge.
Do you sand it down below the fiber glass line before you put fibre glass on so it’s smooth?
No, I sand the filler flush.
Nice work really enjoying the vids! Glad you are staying safe with some good PPE while working. I like the flight suit...Pilot is your day job? Is there a reason for not adding resin to the edges of the glass patch? Does that make it easier to feather the edges?
Nope I got that at an army surplus store 😂 thanks for watching
Do you still use Q-cell if its epoxy resin? Like is everything supposed to be the same, people just use epoxy sometimes because the have PU foam?
Yep you can still use qcell with epoxy (I do, regularly).
I've seen recommended to use a waxed poly resin for filler, and an unwaxed for laminating. Which do you use, and have you found the other necessary at all?
Laminating resin + qcell for filler
Is there a particular reason why you leave the edges of the cloth without resin?
It keeps everything tidier. Essentially, it's easier to see where to grind and feather the edge of the patch. Plus it saves time and money as an alternative to using tape.
Just wondering what you would charge for a repair like this?
$50 on PU
$70 on EPS
Awesome thanks. Quick question, do you bother washing the brush with acetone or just throw away after one use?
Also the drill attachment looks super useful, any details please?
Hey Ron, yes I rinse brushes with acetone. Try using three separate buckets to clean your brushes. Bucket 1 = very dirty acetone, 2 medium and 3 is somewhat clean. By the time you rinse your brushes in all three buckets it should be clean enough to reuse. I'll get 3-5 uses out of a single brush.
@@Rk29th www.amazon.com/NYXCL-Zirconia-Sanding-Removal%EF%BC%8CSurface-Conditioning/dp/B086Q3JLBG?pd_rd_w=8GGO7&pf_rd_p=61b537df-f2d9-4e2e-a3c3-e285057df2ab&pf_rd_r=91CGZGZMY6GVZ0RYV5T3&pd_rd_r=b511f184-f3c7-4e46-8c0c-67f6f89dd302&pd_rd_wg=kEXTb&pd_rd_i=B086Q3JLBG&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_csi_bia_sims_prsubs_5_i
hay man nice vids i learn a lot from them. one question , when you lay the glass matt down you only wet the center of the matt, is this to keep the resin from running or easier to sand etc?
Hey Chris, I find it keeps things tidier without using tape.
@@Rogue_wave thank for replying, ok nice I'll give it a go on my nexted board and see how it goes for me. thank you.
hey what kind of respirator filters you use?? and nice video!
fiberglasssource.com/collections/respirators-facemasks/products/half-mask-resperator-3m-7503-large
fiberglasssource.com/collections/respirators-facemasks/products/3m-6003-organic-vapor-acid-gas-cartridge
fiberglasssource.com/collections/respirators-facemasks/products/dust-filters-3m-pink-2-pack
First is the mask, second is the filter I used to use for everything, until I learned that the dust filters are better for sanding (3rd link).
Do you ever have issues using polyester resin to fix boards originally made with epoxy resin? I have multiple issues with the way you went about this lol. Good job tho !
Oh ya. You cannot use polyester resin on EPS foam. Sorry dude everyone makes that mistake once! I have a full video on what resin goes on what foam if you want to make sure you don’t do it again.
Wet out all of the cloth, to avoid having to sand away dry cloth later!! Way more dangerously fine airborne glass particles than sanding wetted cloth that's cured. Those fine dry cloth sanded fibres will hang around your work area.
Thanks 🤙🏽
Hi, thank you for this helpful content. May I have the doses to prepare the hot coat please ?
Thank you
It's sanding resin and MEKP. Ratios can be found here: greenlightsurfsupply.com/pages/surfboard-building-information-sheets
Great video! And what kind of material you used for filling the ding?
Thanks Jovin! It's laminating resin mixed with Q-cell. Links to those products are in the description
I thought I was the only one that used wax. Sometimes I use rubbing compound first then wax.
I found keeping PU resin in plastic bottles not the best option. I have steel bottles now with no issues.
Great vid however.
Thank you, will try!
Using a block instead of fingers and some guide powder would have avoided the lows but otherwise excellent video
Maybe explain what a block is, or what part your talking about, or what guide powder is, or what the lows is, and then it will be a helpful comment cause I have no clue wtf u just said
@@aidanmyles2138 a block would be a flat block in which to adhere the required grade of sand paper or wet and dry paper, guide powder or panel black is a black chalk that when rubbed on the surface you are flatting it will highlight the low areas enabling you to effectively sand down from course grade to fine grade and visually see the scratches so as not to not to sand down unevenly or blow through the applied glass epoxy layer
Nice.... 🤙
$?
How long does it take to repair it
Can finish it in a day!
@@Rogue_wave how many days to dry up waterlogged?
I never understand why people don't put resin on first and then the glass patch, stipple and apply more resin on top. Much better composite practice.
Good point!
you have balls of steel using a drill with sandpaper on a board with that thin of glassing
Now I use a pneumatic tool that spins even faster than the drill 😂
Tell me about that sander? Looks like a dentist's tool.
Hey Jake! It's just a cheap pneumatic tool from harbor freight. www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-tools/air-angle-sander-93629.html
Never cut a square patch...
Why?
Easier to sand?... Your ding looks perfect so maybe not making a difference..Does anybody else know?... Hey , great job..Its a thumbs up!.. I m just a hairdresser!₩
could have done it in a way that looked better and much quicker using q cell , solarez with some tint and you wouldnt be able to see it, your method is only necessary for structural points, rails tails noses, not on a large flat area on the bottom, didnt need all that and the repair was very obvious, with color matching you wouldnt notice it
Interesting, I'll try this! Thanks.
Where’s your video buddy?
Eh I disagree. Solarez almost always cracks overtime. Not to mention color matching white is a pain in the ass and not always exact, especially with resin tinted board. If your board is glassed clear your almost always going to notice even if it’s color-matched because the tint is above the glass. IMO a large patch where there is a lot of foam missing is always a necessity.
Solarez is what you use when you ding it on a surf vacation, and it's all you have/can find...
@@ajdahun done properly solarez can last quite well