I still can't get over how far you've come over the years, from the one-car garage workshop and wainscotting your entrance hall, and Slushy the Snowman. Now you truly are a captain of industry and real estate magnate. I'm sure it's because I'm old enough to be your father, but I am downright proud of you and all you've accomplished. And you ain't done yet! 👋🙋♂
I installed this behind a big slop sink in my garage. It's great stuff and keeps everything waterproof and clean. I didn't even realize it was fire and chemical rated until I clicked and watched, so thanks!
6:16 I've installed a similar product to this, and for that situation I eventually discovered the most useful tool was a 12 inch drywall knife. It does what your 2 little ones are doing, but covers the whole panel and sliding it in was many times easier.
@@tomdomenico- that's assuming that you could remove it to remediate any damage behind it. Replacing insulation, scrubbing exposed wood & treating with a sanitizing agent doesn't require skilled trades. Putting everything back is fairly DIY friendly, which is really important after a disaster when all trades are in short supply & command "scalper" level pricing.
NFPA Life Safety 101 requires a horizontal fire separation between floors and a vertical fire separation between certain rooms. Fire rated drywall accomplishes this requirement. Just because this is Class A fire rated, that just means its permitted to be used for Smoke and Flame spread on interior finishes. It probably won't meet fire separation regulations. In order to meet NFPA regulations for a rated wall or fire separation, it must be UL Listed and Tested and have a UL Listing Number which matches the construction for that requirement - 30 minute, 45 minute, 90 minute, 2 hour and up. This includes the framing material, spacing, and rated door assemblies. You can find this info in the UL White Book. I cant tell you how many times I have seen "Class A" panels be used where fire separation or a 1 hour rated wall is required and the owner had to tear it all out and start over.
Have you checked the UL listing? You said "probably" too many times for us to take that as a fact.. Sure that's the code, but your assumption could have been negated by a bit of research so we don't have to guess as to if you're guessing..
@@_Jake.From.Statefarm_ It can also vary state-to-state. Just because they have "national" in their name doesn't mean the NFPA dictates what states can and cannot do.
I don't like the H channels but for a business laundry room it works the manufacturer needs to fix that H channel then you would have a absolutely great looking product thanks for sharing
Good morning, April! "This is the first job where I'm not everything." But, you ARE everything! Without you, there'd be no job! You're overseeing the entire project! This project IS YOU! This is a very nice option, especially if you don't like or can't do drywall. It's nice looking all except for the H channels. Not a fan, but that's me. I'm super picky, I guess. Thanks for sharing another cool project! I hope this RV Park turns out to be a huge success! Have a great week! God bless.
Pro tip. Pop off the button on top of your baseball cap (diagonal cutters work great). Its for show and not for work. Makes overhead work so much nicer and also works great for muffs.
For a laundry room in an RV Park, I think that solution is brilliant. The Duraclad site says their panels com in in lengths of 20', which would cover most rooms without that vertical connector, so curious why you didn't use the longer option here (or is this specific panel limited to 12'?). Overall, it looks very good, but for my ocd brain, the connecting vertical strip is very distracting. I could definitely see using this product for rooms with walls
April your laundry room came out great! I can only imagine how awesome your Rv park is going to look when it’s all said and done. Congratulations! You’re the best👍🏾
The DuraClad looks incredible and the benefit of being durable and easy to clean is really nice! The install looks easy and turned out great! Thanks for sharing this April. Keep on Building! I wish you success with the RV Park!
I cannot believe that the designers/engineers who developed this stepped back when viewing the product and said that is the best way to hide seams…wow just wow! I guess besides the obvious of commenting on the seams I would like to know the cost installed compared to drywall (Dupont makes wall panels that are crazy expensive) and being pvc how do these handle sound? Being a laundry room with machines running I would think that these do little to muffle rather make the sound eco throughout room.
Labor savings of not having to tape, plaster, sand, plaster, sand, mask, prime, and paint probably more than makes up for the material price difference. I'm more concerned about the toxicity tbh.
@@jeremiahbullfrog9288 You need to consider this is a DIY Channel by large #'s. So, labor cost would not be a topic for anyone watching. And all materials you listed should be included in the cost comparison.
@@BuddyAmericafirst-nh4ms I mean I don't NEED to consider anything but I get your point, however even hobbyists should value their time. If they can put up a beautiful wall in half the time of a Joe-Job plastering, it's worth looking at.
I have two objections to this product. I am skeptical of the ability of the material to lay flat, especially over time. I also fear the plastic will become brittle in a few years, as soon as the plastic users gas off. The test the relies upon foot their claim the material is “nonflammable” is essentially meaningless. A better claim could be had were the material to qualify as Class A in the ASTM -84 test. I’ve performed many such tests, and even the most “fire resistant” plastics do a fine imitation of rocket fuel in actual building fire testing.
I'm not a builder, but I've seen many ceiling materials (not wood) sag, I would be worried about that. Also I was under the impression PVC is a health risk during manufacturing as well as when cutting it.
I've never commented on an ad before, but you're absolutely right about the Aura Frame. Our nieces got one for us a couple of years ago and it's probably the best gift we've ever received!
I love this stuff for walls. I'm not in the US. Our houses are made of brick and cement. My house is very old and there is a lot of moisture, that causes dampness to the point that paint doesn't want to stick to the walls and in less than 6 months after painting, after been sanded down to the cement, would start pealing. and you had to contend with mould. We put this on the walls and I couldn't be happier. No fighting with paint and because it was sealed off with Painters mate (calking) no issues with mould. And so much cheaper and less hassle than tiling. We did ours floor to ceiling rather than side to side. I used plain white as it made things so much easier. Colour can be added with furniture and decorations. White also means if for some reason a hole happens or you make one to put something up and it needs filling. Cheap and nasty but works very well is just plain white painters mate (calking) no need to try colour match if that is even possible. The damaged spot will not look like it is brand new again, but it hides it pretty well.
You have to be really really careful OP. If you already have what sounds like a serious moisture problem (permeation through the brick from the outside?) then covering over the problem and further reducing the already to low ability to dry out the water is likely to make the moisture even worse. Yes, it may not be visible, but it can cause very serious and very costly damage. What you are describing with paint is very typical of moisture problems, and is basically the water pushing the paint from the inside. If you stop the water from being able to exit that way you NEED to know what alternative route the water will be taking. This type of problem really needs to be fixed from the outside of the house, not the inside. Its critical to identify the source of the moisture. sounds like its permeating slowly through the brick/cement - but from rain, or from the ground? Impregnating brick or concrete with a breathable siloxane or similar can be a pretty cheap and easy DIY job, but if ground water is seeping in because of inadequate protection of below-ground walls then its time to call a professional. Sorry if I come across as preachy. I just don't want you to experience a water-damage disaster. Being told years down the line that the structure of the house has been irreversably compromised is no fun. Let me know if you need any advice. (not a professional for the record)
@@TheStigma The house is over 100 years old and is in an area where if you dig about knee high down you have water seeping through. This place has always been wet. And been that it is so old. No damp corsing. We have had some of the old origon pine floors replaced with cement suspended flooring. As filling in the floors would just make things worse with moisture. Some parts of the plaster on the walls is cement. Where the old plaster needed replacing, but mostly the place consists of more sand between the brick than anything else. No way to stop the water issue unless some major work is done. (with no Guarentee) Not going to happen too easily, we have water run in from behind us, from the neighbours as we are on a hill and if really bad in the past it would flood the garage floor with about 4 fingers high with water. Even the buildings of our neigbour has drain holes in them to let water out. And under the house there is a spring. That bubbles up when it rains. And before we repainted the lounge area (sitting room) they had a plastic type paint that would get a huge water bubble every time it rained. nearly 20 years later when we scrapped off the paint. the wall was fine there. Wet, but intact. One works with what one has. The one room has had the coverings up for about 15 years. No issue. the other room next to it has had it now for 4 years.
Stained concrete floors are another easy thing to do without a lot of cutting and is super convenient and easy to match light coat of polyurethane. Doesn't even matter if the floor is already stained or has cracking
@AprilWilkerson I think it's brilliant! You can easily paint the H channels to blend in. For high moisture areas, especially a public laundry room it's perfect! I think I'd install it vertically so the channels would blend more and water will roll down. I spent many a saturday in a hot steamy laundry room back in the day. It reeked of mould because they had to use gyprock.
I'va always been curious about these drywall replacements. Can it be painted? Wallpapered? Repaired? Seems like an alternative to drywall but not a replacement and you gotta weigh pros & cons.
Yeah, my first question was "what happens if I need to hang a TV or a painting after install?" I doubt there is an easy way to patch it or fill in a hole.
It's looking better each video you share with us April. Hope the Opening comes off okay and everything is a go as you've planned and all is well. Stay safe and thanks for the great video on the paneling and frames. Fred.
Like good old commercial bathroom walls. FRP fiberglass reinforced plastic. I once walled a residential bathroom in Oregon for an unusual customer. It came out great… I guess.
What is that material made of? Is it approved by code? Codes are not a always a hinderance, but by design meant to save lives. Chemicals released in fires can and will kill if inhaled.
Congrats - it is quite fascinating to watch your growth into "April Incorporated". From a tiny acorn grows the mighty oak. Best wishes for your continued success.
I still remember your "I'm not sure if I want to do youtube videos" video. Your growth is an inspiration. You were born at exactly the right time to seize this opportunity and succeed.
Another great product not available to the general public. If you are a DYI person and don't live in Oregon you can't get it. Just another dream this DYI person wish they could get.
In almost no cases shoukd this be used to replace drywall which is required my code to be installed as a fire stop.. stop listening to youtubers who get paid to promote junk products..
Hmmmm. This is interesting for me. I used to work installing vinyl siding and soffit on the outside of homes, as well as sheetrocking the interior rooms. I kind of like this idea at first glance. The installation is familiar to me, but I'd like to look into the pro's and cons a bit further for my own satisfaction and use. I was going to use T-111 plywood to finish the inside of my tack room / office in our horse barn. But this alternative has possibilities. Thumbs up from me.
@AprilWilkerson I'm in VT. It would be great to get down there and see what you created. Maybe some inspiration for me. Congratulations on your successful channel and other endeavors.
Probably a good idea to only put in Temp control climates. PVC has a tendency to get wavy and soft in summer heat. I’m sure if this material is in a room that gets above 95 degree the pvc sheet will turn to a “noodle” or be very wavy between fasten points. Good idea though everyone dislikes the time involved in traditional drywall. However, I don’t think pvc will be the product of the future for walls. Your project looks great.
Some people don't understand that drywall and paint creates a vapor retarder at exterior walls and the attic. slowing moisture movement to the exterior surfaces. But that's probably not so important in a room where there won't be much moisture or heat. Also this material is good for a place where fire-resistance is no concern.👍
Looks very interesting, great choice for this problem. I’m concerned about replacing a damaged panel later. With soffit or vertically installed vinyl siding material this would be simple.
I noticed no vapour barrier. Is it technically its own vapour barrier? So hapoy to see your RV park. That’s my dream and its so cool to see you bringing one to reality!
@@jt4621 different areas have different building codes I guess. We have to seal up our new builds air tight because of the high humidity. I mean, light fixtures, outlets, tuck tape all seams. Everything!
Nice job. They had some drywall substitutes at the build show live recently. Unfortunately I didn't get back to learn the details because there was so much about so many things to see and learn about. Best wishes on your park. Cheers!
as a drywall finisher and painter that system makes me say ugh!!! but honestly I can see the benefits. My question is on the ceiling it "looked" like the joist are 24" oc. Is it speced out thats ok. I would almost put firring strips 16" oc because it looks like over time it could start to sag?
I’d still prefer drywall, as it’s a better insulator. Also, let’s say, down the road you wanted to paint the room with an another desired color, drywall is excellent for this. Can’t imagine painting over a plastic wall, running with so many issues with paint adhesion.
Interesting, I'm all about an alternative to drywall and I do like pvc. I might have gone with the all white ceiling panels on the walls too. Nice work.
This is popular on Caribbean islands because of termites. But now their fire insurance is getting cancelled because, well plastic burns hotter and slightly😏 faster than drywall.
The plain version of this product (the style you put on the ceiling) looks an awful lot like a product that is marketed in Canada as Trusscore. You definitely chose the right application - long, clean, mostly uncomplicated walls. In those cases, this stuff is a dream to work with. But when you're cutting around a lot of outlets or fixtures (i.e. the small bathroom where I was installing it) it can be a bit of a bear. Drywall is definitely easier to custom fit. If the patterned version of this product had been available at the time, I may have used that for my new workshop. On video at least, it looks great!
@@peterbarlow8912 Yep. with Duraclad or Trusscore, if you make a mistake, you either live with it or replace the whole sheet. Not a problem for me because I have very low standards. 😃
Thanks for sharing the duraclad install so cool and also like auraframes you gave me some Christmas present ideas and the RV park is going be awesome place to come and stay have a great week and be safe 💞
Can this be used to cover textured ceiling without removing the texture? Does the pvc ceiling off gas? Any odor associated with it? Is it fire resistant?
Looks great! We travel full time in our RV and are already planning on heading that way in a few months, so looking forward to seeing your RV campground!
Love the bright clean look of the laundry room. I wasn't familiar with that Duraclad product so glad to know about it and how easy it is to work with. Would sure beat drywalling! BTW, I recently purchased a set of plans for one of your projects and they are great.....very detailed and complete!
For anyone interested. Looks like about $66 per 16"x16' (21 sq/ft) White PCV (more for colored/textured) compared to $17 per 4'x8' (32 sq/ft) drywall. Its a nice product but the cost may be a factor in larger installations. And there is also the fact that PVC is not the most stable product as noted in other comments. My only other concern is the repairability, PVC is easy to punch a hole in and shatter. The older it gets the more fragile. Drywall is easy to repair.
The title of this video had me excited because I hate doing drywall. After watching the video this looks like a great product for laundry rooms, garages, utility rooms etc but not something I would install in the living areas of my house. We are limiting the amount of drywall in our build and are using ship lap in approximately 70% of our build.
The dryer vents are what got my attention, dryers typically need their own dedicated vent but maybe there is a booster fan hiding in the outlet somewhere?
Another great aspect to this product is if you ever need to get back inside the wall or ceiling you could reverse the installation, make your modifications and reinstall the product! Can’t do THAT with drywall!
This is a great alternative to drywall for projects such as yours, but it will not replace the finished look of a well done drywalled room, that said I think it's a fantastic alternative to mud and tape saving tons of time and labor, the look can be greatly improved by color matched joint and corner pieces. 👍👍
I want to see the burn test before lining my shop in plastic. I really like the white panels. I just can’t believe this will hold up in a 300 degree fire, compared to sheet rock.
Tongue and groove if you can afford it, its thicker and it stays in the groove so no wavying down the side of the wall and you can screw into it for support to hang most stuff without needing to screw into a stud, if not then ship lap over sheetrock because no huge sheets to haul, no mudding, no taping, no sanding, no remudding, just put the first board on the floor and nail one side and level the other side and nail, then repeat and DONE! I WILL NEVER PUT UP SHEETROCK IN MY HOUSE EVER AGAIN!
The ceiling panels are used in car washes and bathrooms, but they are installed vertically on the walls. You’ll need to install horizontal furring strips to install.
You have gas appliances common vented and two of them have 4” vents into a 4” vent and Then it expands. You can have flue gas/dryer exhaust backing up into the other dryer……..
I like the wall covering, but sorry to say I hate the end joint seem, wish they could have come up with something different, like a staggered joint that blended in better the H-channel just gives me a 1970s wood paneling feel, which I hate. Good job April loved the video.
Looks ok for me. But keep in mind that drywall is a fire resistant for some time. As well as noise protections, insulation as well. In case of fire plastic walls would be the last choice to have. Any warranty from supplier about fire resistant time for this walls?
I installed some Trusscore on the ceiling, (same idea as your product), but every video that I've watched, glosses over the last piece. We spent 4 hours installing that last strip which has to slip into all four sides at the same time. I mangled the J-channel and learned a few, new cuss words from my wife. Any tips for how to install that last piece?
I don't know if you are aware of this problem, but if your video appears in one of the Microsoft Edge boxes, then there is no "comment section below". That means when you say "I'll leave the link below" there is NO BELOW. That trick only works if you are viewing your video in TH-cam, where there is a comment section below. Maybe you can superimpose the link on the video itself, so that even if there is no comment section, we can still get the link info. Thanks April. Tony
I still can't get over how far you've come over the years, from the one-car garage workshop and wainscotting your entrance hall, and Slushy the Snowman. Now you truly are a captain of industry and real estate magnate. I'm sure it's because I'm old enough to be your father, but I am downright proud of you and all you've accomplished. And you ain't done yet! 👋🙋♂
Thank you for your kind words! It's been a crazy ride to be sure. Thanks for staying along for the ride.
I know, right, she's just a kid, but doing so well..
I installed this behind a big slop sink in my garage. It's great stuff and keeps everything waterproof and clean. I didn't even realize it was fire and chemical rated until I clicked and watched, so thanks!
Where did you buy it? And the cost? I need for my garage
That’s great! Thanks for sharing that.
@@ani108pe Home Hardware, Ontario, Canada
I was looking for the fire rating. Ill find it in the page thanks.
It has perfect features for a garage or workshop!
6:16 I've installed a similar product to this, and for that situation I eventually discovered the most useful tool was a 12 inch drywall knife. It does what your 2 little ones are doing, but covers the whole panel and sliding it in was many times easier.
Thanks for the tip! I appreciate it and your watching.
Incredibly impressed with the level you have achieved from where you’ve started and being self taught. Awesome job!
Thank you so much! I've really enjoyed learning along the way. It's been a crazy journey. Thanks for staying along for the ride.
This material might be a good option for disaster prone areas that experience repetitive flood events.
Also you could remove sections under the flood line and replace them easier I would think. I am in Florida near the damage zone.
I just wonder if it will sag on a ceiling
@@NoNORADon911it’s screwed every 16 inches so I doubt it.
Excellent observation. It will make sure you can’t see the moldy wood and insulation behind it. I think I’m all set with white 1970’s paneling.
@@tomdomenico- that's assuming that you could remove it to remediate any damage behind it. Replacing insulation, scrubbing exposed wood & treating with a sanitizing agent doesn't require skilled trades.
Putting everything back is fairly DIY friendly, which is really important after a disaster when all trades are in short supply & command "scalper" level pricing.
NFPA Life Safety 101 requires a horizontal fire separation between floors and a vertical fire separation between certain rooms. Fire rated drywall accomplishes this requirement. Just because this is Class A fire rated, that just means its permitted to be used for Smoke and Flame spread on interior finishes. It probably won't meet fire separation regulations.
In order to meet NFPA regulations for a rated wall or fire separation, it must be UL Listed and Tested and have a UL Listing Number which matches the construction for that requirement - 30 minute, 45 minute, 90 minute, 2 hour and up. This includes the framing material, spacing, and rated door assemblies. You can find this info in the UL White Book.
I cant tell you how many times I have seen "Class A" panels be used where fire separation or a 1 hour rated wall is required and the owner had to tear it all out and start over.
Rules don't apply to youtubers, duh
Have you checked the UL listing? You said "probably" too many times for us to take that as a fact.. Sure that's the code, but your assumption could have been negated by a bit of research so we don't have to guess as to if you're guessing..
@@_Jake.From.Statefarm_ It can also vary state-to-state. Just because they have "national" in their name doesn't mean the NFPA dictates what states can and cannot do.
I don't like the H channels but for a business laundry room it works the manufacturer needs to fix that H channel then you would have a absolutely great looking product thanks for sharing
Plastic is still a bad option for comfy interior space. I agree it is a good solution for a laundry area.
Garage too! I hate drywall, especially the finish work!
Good morning, April! "This is the first job where I'm not everything." But, you ARE everything! Without you, there'd be no job! You're overseeing the entire project! This project IS YOU!
This is a very nice option, especially if you don't like or can't do drywall. It's nice looking all except for the H channels. Not a fan, but that's me. I'm super picky, I guess. Thanks for sharing another cool project! I hope this RV Park turns out to be a huge success! Have a great week! God bless.
Thank you so much! I appreciate you're watching.
Pro tip. Pop off the button on top of your baseball cap (diagonal cutters work great). Its for show and not for work. Makes overhead work so much nicer and also works great for muffs.
For a laundry room in an RV Park, I think that solution is brilliant. The Duraclad site says their panels com in in lengths of 20', which would cover most rooms without that vertical connector, so curious why you didn't use the longer option here (or is this specific panel limited to 12'?). Overall, it looks very good, but for my ocd brain, the connecting vertical strip is very distracting. I could definitely see using this product for rooms with walls
It looks like the room is 16', which tells me that they had to cut the duraclad to the length they needed.
April your laundry room came out great! I can only imagine how awesome your Rv park is going to look when it’s all said and done. Congratulations! You’re the best👍🏾
Thanks so much! I am so excited to share the park with everyone! Thanks for watching.
The DuraClad looks incredible and the benefit of being durable and easy to clean is really nice! The install looks easy and turned out great! Thanks for sharing this April. Keep on Building! I wish you success with the RV Park!
Thanks! I'm excited about the RV Park too! Stay tuned!
I cannot believe that the designers/engineers who developed this stepped back when viewing the product and said that is the best way to hide seams…wow just wow! I guess besides the obvious of commenting on the seams I would like to know the cost installed compared to drywall (Dupont makes wall panels that are crazy expensive) and being pvc how do these handle sound? Being a laundry room with machines running I would think that these do little to muffle rather make the sound eco throughout room.
Seams ?
Do you notice they NEVER mention cost comparison. The most important attribute for the majority.
Labor savings of not having to tape, plaster, sand, plaster, sand, mask, prime, and paint probably more than makes up for the material price difference. I'm more concerned about the toxicity tbh.
@@jeremiahbullfrog9288 You need to consider this is a DIY Channel by large #'s. So, labor cost would not be a topic for anyone watching. And all materials you listed should be included in the cost comparison.
@@BuddyAmericafirst-nh4ms I mean I don't NEED to consider anything but I get your point, however even hobbyists should value their time. If they can put up a beautiful wall in half the time of a Joe-Job plastering, it's worth looking at.
Why is that
Google it
It may be fire resistant but it’s not a fire stop like drywall.
Texas hill country is gorgeous! Sooo many things to do and see. I know your luxury RV park will be a big success! Can’t wait to hear more.
Thank you! We are very excited about the future of the park. Thanks for watching.
I have two objections to this product.
I am skeptical of the ability of the material to lay flat, especially over time. I also fear the plastic will become brittle in a few years, as soon as the plastic users gas off.
The test the relies upon foot their claim the material is “nonflammable” is essentially meaningless. A better claim could be had were the material to qualify as Class A in the ASTM -84 test. I’ve performed many such tests, and even the most “fire resistant” plastics do a fine imitation of rocket fuel in actual building fire testing.
I was wondering about expansion & contraction with temperature changes.
A great deal of chemical exposure with heat fluctuations due to the PFAS contained in these products too.
I'm not a builder, but I've seen many ceiling materials (not wood) sag, I would be worried about that. Also I was under the impression PVC is a health risk during manufacturing as well as when cutting it.
@@MIdaffy502 I was curious about the sag in the ceiling. I know her job is pretty new, anyone else seen how this product ages?
@@MIdaffy502well it’s screwed on every single stud so imma doubt that’s gonna be an issue
I’m a new subscriber and an old senior lady, and I love what you’re achieving! Bravo 👏🏼🫶🏼
Awesome! I hope you will enjoy my Channel. Thanks for watching.
Ooh, horizontal paneling, turning the 70's on their side. 😂😮😂😮
Right?! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Love love love love it!
It's something that didn't need to die off.
It’s called ship lap 😉
@jerryclleung this is the trailer park version...
I've never commented on an ad before, but you're absolutely right about the Aura Frame. Our nieces got one for us a couple of years ago and it's probably the best gift we've ever received!
Fantastic! Thank you for Sharing and for watching.
Absolutely Amazing! It looks like your RV park will be amazing!
Well done, April!
Thank you so much! I'm really excited about it. Stay tuned. Thanks for watching.
It’s reminiscent of those paneled ceilings. I love this in the right application it could be a blessing. They’re lighter require fewer fasteners.
Yes! I love how it turned out. Thanks for watching.
I am constantly impressed withthe number a variety of projects you have on the go. WOW!
Thanks! I build what I want and need, bringing a camera along. I'm glad you're enjoying my Channel. Thanks for watching.
I love this stuff for walls. I'm not in the US. Our houses are made of brick and cement. My house is very old and there is a lot of moisture, that causes dampness to the point that paint doesn't want to stick to the walls and in less than 6 months after painting, after been sanded down to the cement, would start pealing. and you had to contend with mould.
We put this on the walls and I couldn't be happier. No fighting with paint and because it was sealed off with Painters mate (calking) no issues with mould. And so much cheaper and less hassle than tiling. We did ours floor to ceiling rather than side to side. I used plain white as it made things so much easier. Colour can be added with furniture and decorations. White also means if for some reason a hole happens or you make one to put something up and it needs filling. Cheap and nasty but works very well is just plain white painters mate (calking) no need to try colour match if that is even possible. The damaged spot will not look like it is brand new again, but it hides it pretty well.
That is such a great application, I love that you're using it in this way to fight the moisture! Thanks for Sharing and for watching.
You have to be really really careful OP. If you already have what sounds like a serious moisture problem (permeation through the brick from the outside?) then covering over the problem and further reducing the already to low ability to dry out the water is likely to make the moisture even worse. Yes, it may not be visible, but it can cause very serious and very costly damage.
What you are describing with paint is very typical of moisture problems, and is basically the water pushing the paint from the inside. If you stop the water from being able to exit that way you NEED to know what alternative route the water will be taking.
This type of problem really needs to be fixed from the outside of the house, not the inside. Its critical to identify the source of the moisture. sounds like its permeating slowly through the brick/cement - but from rain, or from the ground? Impregnating brick or concrete with a breathable siloxane or similar can be a pretty cheap and easy DIY job, but if ground water is seeping in because of inadequate protection of below-ground walls then its time to call a professional.
Sorry if I come across as preachy. I just don't want you to experience a water-damage disaster. Being told years down the line that the structure of the house has been irreversably compromised is no fun. Let me know if you need any advice. (not a professional for the record)
@@TheStigma The house is over 100 years old and is in an area where if you dig about knee high down you have water seeping through. This place has always been wet. And been that it is so old. No damp corsing. We have had some of the old origon pine floors replaced with cement suspended flooring. As filling in the floors would just make things worse with moisture.
Some parts of the plaster on the walls is cement. Where the old plaster needed replacing, but mostly the place consists of more sand between the brick than anything else. No way to stop the water issue unless some major work is done. (with no Guarentee) Not going to happen too easily, we have water run in from behind us, from the neighbours as we are on a hill and if really bad in the past it would flood the garage floor with about 4 fingers high with water. Even the buildings of our neigbour has drain holes in them to let water out. And under the house there is a spring. That bubbles up when it rains. And before we repainted the lounge area (sitting room) they had a plastic type paint that would get a huge water bubble every time it rained. nearly 20 years later when we scrapped off the paint. the wall was fine there. Wet, but intact.
One works with what one has. The one room has had the coverings up for about 15 years. No issue. the other room next to it has had it now for 4 years.
Stained concrete floors are another easy thing to do without a lot of cutting and is super convenient and easy to match light coat of polyurethane. Doesn't even matter if the floor is already stained or has cracking
@AprilWilkerson I think it's brilliant! You can easily paint the H channels to blend in. For high moisture areas, especially a public laundry room it's perfect! I think I'd install it vertically so the channels would blend more and water will roll down. I spent many a saturday in a hot steamy laundry room back in the day. It reeked of mould because they had to use gyprock.
Love the idea of installing it vertically also. 😊
I'va always been curious about these drywall replacements. Can it be painted? Wallpapered? Repaired? Seems like an alternative to drywall but not a replacement and you gotta weigh pros & cons.
Yeah, my first question was "what happens if I need to hang a TV or a painting after install?" I doubt there is an easy way to patch it or fill in a hole.
Love what you’ve done to the place ! 😀 I hate drywall , I would definitely use this.
I love the finished look! Thanks for watching.
Looks like a step above FRP, with the same ease of cleaning…great idea for the purpose and an overview of the install!
Yes, it's much more durable and I love the finished look! Thanks for watching.
Dryers could get hot,dryer failures leading to appliance fire…how resilient or durable would the vinyl products endure before it fails?
It's looking better each video you share with us April. Hope the Opening comes off okay and everything is a go as you've planned and all is well. Stay safe and thanks for the great video on the paneling and frames. Fred.
I appreciate the support, Fred. It’s all coming together and is so exciting!
We’ve had an aura frame for about 5 years. I like seeing new photos of our grandchildren each morning while making coffee.
Thanks for sharing. It's a great way to stay connected. Thanks for watching.
I absolutely love this idea. We live in a house that is almost impossible to drywall, because it shifts constantly, therefore cracking the drywall.
Awesome! I'm glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Like good old commercial bathroom walls. FRP fiberglass reinforced plastic. I once walled a residential bathroom in Oregon for an unusual customer. It came out great… I guess.
This is a fast and easy way to get great looking walls and ceiling! Thanks for sharing some more awesome products with us April! 😃👍👏
Thanks so much! I love sharing new things with everyone. Thanks for watching.
What is that material made of? Is it approved by code? Codes are not a always a hinderance, but by design meant to save lives. Chemicals released in fires can and will kill if inhaled.
She said it is PVC, the same as vinyl siding. Supposedly flame retardant, but PVC will burn if it gets hot enough.
I installed this stuff in my garage recently. It's awesome and easy to work with, but a bit more expensive than drywall. I love it though.
Glad you love the product! I agree, it's a game changer for walls and ceilings. Thanks for Sharing and for watching.
Is it more expensive than drywall, mud,sanding, prime and painting?
Congrats - it is quite fascinating to watch your growth into "April Incorporated". From a tiny acorn grows the mighty oak. Best wishes for your continued success.
Awww, thanks for the kind words! And thanks for staying along for the ride. :)
I still remember your "I'm not sure if I want to do youtube videos" video. Your growth is an inspiration. You were born at exactly the right time to seize this opportunity and succeed.
This system will be great for a home that intends to shift.
I'm sure she doesn't. It's a useful part of the process until it's not needed anymore. That's why she's expanding. Lol
Great Video. Makes so much more sense than drywall.
I thought it was a great option. Thanks for watching.
Another great product not available to the general public. If you are a DYI person and don't live in Oregon you can't get it. Just another dream this DYI person wish they could get.
I’m amazed by how you make DIY look so easy! I truly value the content you share. Thank you, April! 🙂
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoy my Channel. Thanks for watching.
@@AprilWilkerson You're welcome! I’m looking forward to more of your inspiring creations! 🙌
wife bought one AURA this year and now bought 2 more for the 2 youngest sons which are having baby's this year to keep up on the growing process.
What a great idea!! Thanks for Sharing and for watching.
We'll see how warping in hot weather goes and cracking in cold. Also, I think this would be super toxic in a fire.
i totally agree - this is way easier than drywall!! And in many cases this would be the way to go IMHO.
Exactly! Thanks for watching.
In almost no cases shoukd this be used to replace drywall which is required my code to be installed as a fire stop.. stop listening to youtubers who get paid to promote junk products..
Hmmmm. This is interesting for me. I used to work installing vinyl siding and soffit on the outside of homes, as well as sheetrocking the interior rooms. I kind of like this idea at first glance. The installation is familiar to me, but I'd like to look into the pro's and cons a bit further for my own satisfaction and use. I was going to use T-111 plywood to finish the inside of my tack room / office in our horse barn. But this alternative has possibilities. Thumbs up from me.
Thanks, I'm glad you found it interesting. Thanks for watching.
I've always wanted to own my own campground. Congratulations, this is awesome.
Thank you so much! I'm so excited to make this dream a reality. Hope you can come visit one day. Thanks for watching.
@AprilWilkerson I'm in VT. It would be great to get down there and see what you created. Maybe some inspiration for me. Congratulations on your successful channel and other endeavors.
Probably a good idea to only put in Temp control climates. PVC has a tendency to get wavy and soft in summer heat. I’m sure if this material is in a room that gets above 95 degree the pvc sheet will turn to a “noodle” or be very wavy between fasten points. Good idea though everyone dislikes the time involved in traditional drywall. However, I don’t think pvc will be the product of the future for walls. Your project looks great.
Some people don't understand that drywall and paint creates a vapor retarder at exterior walls and the attic. slowing moisture movement to the exterior surfaces. But that's probably not so important in a room where there won't be much moisture or heat. Also this material is good for a place where fire-resistance is no concern.👍
Looks very interesting, great choice for this problem. I’m concerned about replacing a damaged panel later. With soffit or vertically installed vinyl siding material this would be simple.
I noticed no vapour barrier. Is it technically its own vapour barrier?
So hapoy to see your RV park. That’s my dream and its so cool to see you bringing one to reality!
I believe the Fiberglas pink insulation is covered with a tar paper lining that acts as a vapour barrier.
They clearly have used unfaced batts and they aren’t pink.
@@Ray.J I guess I was focusing on the ones on the ceiling instead of the ones on the wall. So I guess, no vapour barrier then!
@@jt4621 different areas have different building codes I guess. We have to seal up our new builds air tight because of the high humidity. I mean, light fixtures, outlets, tuck tape all seams. Everything!
April, I will remodel my garage in 1st quarter. Boy, howdy, this looks like the way to go. Thanks
Good luck with your project! It’s going to look great!
Nice job. They had some drywall substitutes at the build show live recently. Unfortunately I didn't get back to learn the details because there was so much about so many things to see and learn about. Best wishes on your park. Cheers!
Thanks! It's a fun alternative to the traditional drywall process. Thanks for watching.
Nice Work April! Just found your Channel. And i might add you are just Adorable to Boot!
as a drywall finisher and painter that system makes me say ugh!!! but honestly I can see the benefits. My question is on the ceiling it "looked" like the joist are 24" oc. Is it speced out thats ok. I would almost put firring strips 16" oc because it looks like over time it could start to sag?
I’d still prefer drywall, as it’s a better insulator. Also, let’s say, down the road you wanted to paint the room with an another desired color, drywall is excellent for this. Can’t imagine painting over a plastic wall, running with so many issues with paint adhesion.
Interesting, I'm all about an alternative to drywall and I do like pvc. I might have gone with the all white ceiling panels on the walls too. Nice work.
I just washed someone else ad something like this They only had white and light gray. To me it's like outside vinyl paneling only stronger. Good Luck.
This is popular on Caribbean islands because of termites. But now their fire insurance is getting cancelled because, well plastic burns hotter and slightly😏 faster than drywall.
Just curious how you will go about removing parts of the wall for repairs inside the walls in the future.
Easy. Just remove all borders of the windows and almost the entire wall.
The plain version of this product (the style you put on the ceiling) looks an awful lot like a product that is marketed in Canada as Trusscore. You definitely chose the right application - long, clean, mostly uncomplicated walls. In those cases, this stuff is a dream to work with. But when you're cutting around a lot of outlets or fixtures (i.e. the small bathroom where I was installing it) it can be a bit of a bear. Drywall is definitely easier to custom fit.
If the patterned version of this product had been available at the time, I may have used that for my new workshop. On video at least, it looks great!
Mud and paint fix drywall mistakes
Awesome! Thanks for watching.
They have Trusscore in the US. Wish I would have known about it sooner instead of drywalling my garage.
@@peterbarlow8912 Yep. with Duraclad or Trusscore, if you make a mistake, you either live with it or replace the whole sheet. Not a problem for me because I have very low standards. 😃
Looks like a wonderful product. May be the next finish product.
I agree! It's a great option. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing the duraclad install so cool and also like auraframes you gave me some Christmas present ideas and the RV park is going be awesome place to come and stay have a great week and be safe 💞
I'm excited to share it with everyone! Be safe and have a great week, too!
It’s not sold in New England at all. Closest to NH is PA. I want to do a ceiling with this. Is there anything similar sold by HD or Lowe’s?
Can this be used to cover textured ceiling without removing the texture? Does the pvc ceiling off gas? Any odor associated with it? Is it fire resistant?
The panels do not off gas and there are no odors with it. Duraclad is Class A fire rated!
@ thank you! Can it be used to cover a textured ceiling?
Looks great! We travel full time in our RV and are already planning on heading that way in a few months, so looking forward to seeing your RV campground!
Awesome! We will be glad to have you and hope you enjoy the stay. Thanks for watching.
This is a throwback to wood paneling used in the 70’s and 80’s.
Very cool looks like some great stuff. Thanks for sharing. Great luck getting everything done and getting you park open
I'm excited to share it with everyone! Stay tuned!
How much was this product and where did you source it from?
Did very similar install with exact design for a contractor installing the underside of gas station island canopies, in Vegas. Good times.
Very cool! Thanks for Sharing and for watching.
That is clever and match to rustic style like country hill. Keep it simple and be happy with it.
Exactly! Thanks for watching.
Cool stuff! I’m going to try it!
Thanks April!!
Awesome! I think you'll love it. Thanks for watching.
Love the bright clean look of the laundry room. I wasn't familiar with that Duraclad product so glad to know about it and how easy it is to work with. Would sure beat drywalling! BTW, I recently purchased a set of plans for one of your projects and they are great.....very detailed and complete!
Thank you! Yes, I love the finished look. I'm glad you enjoyed my Plans. Thank you for Sharing that and for watching.
For anyone interested. Looks like about $66 per 16"x16' (21 sq/ft) White PCV (more for colored/textured) compared to $17 per 4'x8' (32 sq/ft) drywall. Its a nice product but the cost may be a factor in larger installations. And there is also the fact that PVC is not the most stable product as noted in other comments. My only other concern is the repairability, PVC is easy to punch a hole in and shatter. The older it gets the more fragile. Drywall is easy to repair.
The title of this video had me excited because I hate doing drywall. After watching the video this looks like a great product for laundry rooms, garages, utility rooms etc but not something I would install in the living areas of my house. We are limiting the amount of drywall in our build and are using ship lap in approximately 70% of our build.
The dryer vents are what got my attention, dryers typically need their own dedicated vent but maybe there is a booster fan hiding in the outlet somewhere?
Looks like a great option for homes that are prone to water intrusion. Would be nice to have staggered seams to eliminate the H channel in spots
Another great aspect to this product is if you ever need to get back inside the wall or ceiling you could reverse the installation, make your modifications and reinstall the product! Can’t do THAT with drywall!
Cool option. Excellent for this purpose where keeping it clean is optimum. Maybe one day I will be able to visit. Meanwhile, I will keep watching. 😊
Awesome! I hope you will be able to one day. Thanks for watching.
Great alternative to dry wall, I’m curious about the reparability of this material, with drywall you can just patch it.
I think for a laundry room it’s a cool system. Do they have a system that weaves into each other, getting rid of the joint strip?
Do you have a link to where i could buy the pbc panels. Love how they look.
This is a great alternative to drywall for projects such as yours, but it will not replace the finished look of a well done drywalled room, that said I think it's a fantastic alternative to mud and tape saving tons of time and labor, the look can be greatly improved by color matched joint and corner pieces. 👍👍
Yes, it's perfect for this Laundromat space. Thanks for watching.
I want to see the burn test before lining my shop in plastic.
I really like the white panels.
I just can’t believe this will hold up in a 300 degree fire, compared to sheet rock.
It won't
Tongue and groove if you can afford it, its thicker and it stays in the groove so no wavying down the side of the wall and you can screw into it for support to hang most stuff without needing to screw into a stud, if not then ship lap over sheetrock because no huge sheets to haul, no mudding, no taping, no sanding, no remudding, just put the first board on the floor and nail one side and level the other side and nail, then repeat and DONE! I WILL NEVER PUT UP SHEETROCK IN MY HOUSE EVER AGAIN!
That laundromat looks AMAZING April!!
Ignore the haters on here and keep up the good work! 🤠
Thank you! Yes, can't please everyone. Thanks for your support!
The ceiling panels are used in car washes and bathrooms, but they are installed vertically on the walls. You’ll need to install horizontal furring strips to install.
So we are going back to paneling like was done in the seventys? Question: can wallpaper be used later for a change like the seventys paneling?
At least that was wood and could be painted. This is floor to ceiling plastic. I'll bet the acoustics are wonky too.
For the application it’s awesome!
Absolutely! Thanks for watching.
You have gas appliances common vented and two of them have 4” vents into a 4” vent and Then it expands. You can have flue gas/dryer exhaust backing up into the other dryer……..
Looks very nice 👍 And simple and easy to work with! Have a wonderful weekend 🙏
Thanks! You too. I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Girl! I needed this video! ❤
Awesome! I'm glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Tip: Place a sponge under your ball cap to avoid sore head after installation of overhead lids
I like the wall covering, but sorry to say I hate the end joint seem, wish they could have come up with something different, like a staggered joint that blended in better the H-channel just gives me a 1970s wood paneling feel, which I hate. Good job April loved the video.
What is done for an air barrier? Is this space not heated or cooled?
My stepdad hung vinyl siding for 20 yrs. He used it to finish our basement, apparently he was 40 yrs ahead of the times.
Awesome! Thanks for Sharing and for watching.
Looks ok for me. But keep in mind that drywall is a fire resistant for some time. As well as noise protections, insulation as well.
In case of fire plastic walls would be the last choice to have. Any warranty from supplier about fire resistant time for this walls?
Will be looking at this for a couple jobs. Thanks for sharing this.
It's great to hear, good luck with your projects! Thanks for watching.
curious about repairs? with Drywalll we have mud, but what about this material? Do they have a solution for hole repairs?
I installed some Trusscore on the ceiling, (same idea as your product), but every video that I've watched, glosses over the last piece. We spent 4 hours installing that last strip which has to slip into all four sides at the same time. I mangled the J-channel and learned a few, new cuss words from my wife. Any tips for how to install that last piece?
I don't know if you are aware of this problem, but if your video appears in one of the Microsoft Edge boxes, then there is no "comment section below". That means when you say "I'll leave the link below" there is NO BELOW. That trick only works if you are viewing your video in TH-cam, where there is a comment section below. Maybe you can superimpose the link on the video itself, so that even if there is no comment section, we can still get the link info. Thanks April. Tony