I never knew the steps and sides were one piece of metal. There is a lot of bondo on my body, The drain holes have been patched over. These videos are very informative!
George, glad you are getting good information out of my video series. The more you know the better your restoration will turn out. Keep watching, much more to come.
This is mesmerizing to watch.I work in autobody myself here in Canada and I find your work very interesting.Once in a while we get some restoration job and I know you have to put your heart and soul into it.In autobody you never stop learning in shaping, forming and fitting panels especially when make your own panel or parts by hand.
I prefer working the metal cold. Heating the metal may be a good step for beginners who are just learning. I prefer quality over speed so it gets worked cold. Heating will anneal the area making it easier to dent when finished and on the vehicle.
This is really looking good, but the edges are far better,(more square) than on the original Willys body which were formed by pressing, this gave a much larger bend radius, I found that when I built mine I had to anneal the 19SWG steel as I formed around a wooden ,(Oak),former this gave me a radius similar to the original. Many thanks for posting this build!
Thanks for the comment and keep watching as the entire body comes together. It is going along great at the moment, and it will soon be assembled step by step.
The assembly can be somewhat stressful, I made simple wooden jigs to hold the whole thing in place, held it all together with grips, checked again, then used my portable spot welder, but there were places I could not get to, so I plug welded then with the MIG, I will enjoy seeing how you achieve this!
I have just noticed this is a CJ3 body, mine is an MB, so the drain holes are different, mine are small pressing in the corner of the footwell with plugs.
Englishman French Yes this is a CJ3B body build, but many things are similar to your MB so I am hoping to show people how things are done in general. I am hoping to do a military MB or GPW next but at this time I have not found a body tub in good enough condition to take patterns off of.
This was the problem I had, I was looking for a complete rot box that still had all the correct panel shapes, so many I looked at had tailgates hacked into them, but I did at last find one that had sat outside for many years and was still straight, but rusty, I used this to get dimensions ,I even used the dashboard and gearbox island pressing, one thing you should consider if you haven't already, the use of spot weldable primer on your panels before you assemble the tub, This enables the spot welder to weld through the primer in the seams.
Do you sell Willies patterns? I am starting to make a replica from scratch and laying out without a physical pattern is proving to be pretty difficult.
Hi Brian, I have been really enjoying your videos! Please keep them coming. One question though. I am just getting started and need to purchase hammers. Is there a brand of hammers you can recomend? Thanks Pete
Hello Pete, glad you are enjoying the videos. I am very particular about my hammers and each one has to feel right in my hand . I have hundreds of hammers for sheetmetal work, blacksmith work, carpentry, etc...... If I had to buy new hammers to get started in sheet metal work, my favorites are made by Snap On Tools. They have the best and the greatest selection of styles. I have just about every body hammer they make and have been using them for almost 30 years without any trouble. I also have a lot of old, vintage hammers. I pick those up at swap meets, etc.... where I can look them over for damage and see how they feel in my hand. There are lots of great body hammers that can be found at tag sales or swap meets. Stay away from the imported junk and dime store hammers. They will not last, heads will chip, and overall not work good. Buy the best you can and you will have them for life. Hope this helps. Brian
If you are looking for top quality body hammers and dollies, you need to find a set from "Martin Sprocket and Gear". They are the people who makes the hammers and dollies for Snap-on, MAC and Matco tools. They aren't cheap, but they are cheaper than buying them from a second party like Snap-on and such. I've had my set since 2001 and I haven't had to replace a single hammer or dolly. Martin also has an old school book they sell that explains how to remove dents and use the tools. This book should be considered the bible of automotive repair.
Yes, I make all my own hammer forms for various projects. It is a very important step and the finished product depends on how well the hammer form is made. that is why I make my own.
I never knew the steps and sides were one piece of metal. There is a lot of bondo on my body, The drain holes have been patched over. These videos are very informative!
George, glad you are getting good information out of my video series. The more you know the better your restoration will turn out. Keep watching, much more to come.
This is mesmerizing to watch.I work in autobody myself here in Canada and I find your work very interesting.Once in a while we get some restoration job and I know you have to put your heart and soul into it.In autobody you never stop learning in shaping, forming and fitting panels especially when make your own panel or parts by hand.
I love watching how you work the metal lot of good tip and info.
Thanks for your comment and continued support on my channel. Much more to follow, stay tuned.
That's some magic!!! Making a panel from nothing more then sheet metal!👍
My god are you an artist. I love that someone else has an eye for detail!
Good to hear from you, glad you liked the video
great vid as always. heating the tucks in that tight radius would make them flow better and make the job a whole lot quicker & easier.
I prefer working the metal cold. Heating the metal may be a good step for beginners who are just learning. I prefer quality over speed so it gets worked cold. Heating will anneal the area making it easier to dent when finished and on the vehicle.
This is really looking good, but the edges are far better,(more square) than on the original Willys body which were formed by pressing, this gave a much larger bend radius, I found that when I built mine I had to anneal the 19SWG steel as I formed around a wooden ,(Oak),former this gave me a radius similar to the original. Many thanks for posting this build!
Thanks for the comment and keep watching as the entire body comes together. It is going along great at the moment, and it will soon be assembled step by step.
The assembly can be somewhat stressful, I made simple wooden jigs to hold the whole thing in place, held it all together with grips, checked again, then used my portable spot welder, but there were places I could not get to, so I plug welded then with the MIG, I will enjoy seeing how you achieve this!
I have just noticed this is a CJ3 body, mine is an MB, so the drain holes are different, mine are small pressing in the corner of the footwell with plugs.
Englishman French Yes this is a CJ3B body build, but many things are similar to your MB so I am hoping to show people how things are done in general. I am hoping to do a military MB or GPW next but at this time I have not found a body tub in good enough condition to take patterns off of.
This was the problem I had, I was looking for a complete rot box that still had all the correct panel shapes, so many I looked at had tailgates hacked into them, but I did at last find one that had sat outside for many years and was still straight, but rusty, I used this to get dimensions ,I even used the dashboard and gearbox island pressing, one thing you should consider if you haven't already, the use of spot weldable primer on your panels before you assemble the tub, This enables the spot welder to weld through the primer in the seams.
Do you sell Willies patterns? I am starting to make a replica from scratch and laying out without a physical pattern is proving to be pretty difficult.
Hi Brian,
I have been really enjoying your videos! Please keep them coming. One question though. I am just getting started and need to purchase hammers. Is there a brand of hammers you can recomend?
Thanks
Pete
Hello Pete, glad you are enjoying the videos. I am very particular about my hammers and each one has to feel right in my hand . I have hundreds of hammers for sheetmetal work, blacksmith work, carpentry, etc......
If I had to buy new hammers to get started in sheet metal work, my favorites are made by Snap On Tools. They have the best and the greatest selection of styles. I have just about every body hammer they make and have been using them for almost 30 years without any trouble. I also have a lot of old, vintage hammers. I pick those up at swap meets, etc.... where I can look them over for damage and see how they feel in my hand. There are lots of great body hammers that can be found at tag sales or swap meets. Stay away from the imported junk and dime store hammers. They will not last, heads will chip, and overall not work good. Buy the best you can and you will have them for life. Hope this helps.
Brian
If you are looking for top quality body hammers and dollies, you need to find a set from "Martin Sprocket and Gear". They are the people who makes the hammers and dollies for Snap-on, MAC and Matco tools. They aren't cheap, but they are cheaper than buying them from a second party like Snap-on and such. I've had my set since 2001 and I haven't had to replace a single hammer or dolly. Martin also has an old school book they sell that explains how to remove dents and use the tools. This book should be considered the bible of automotive repair.
Do you make your own hammer forms too? Always wondered where people get them from, but it would make sense if you made them as well
Yes, I make all my own hammer forms for various projects. It is a very important step and the finished product depends on how well the hammer form is made. that is why I make my own.
Do you sell these panels and specs for the hammer forms
HI, NICE WORK! WHAT GAGE METAL ARE YOU USING? DO YOU SELL THESE PANELS?
18 gauge metal as original is used in making these panels. you can contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net if you need anything.
Brian
How thick is the steel you're using for the mold?
Oh wow that step is the same panel as the side? I thought it was an add on. I'm trying to make a small CJ2A and i did the panels separately. Oops!
That step fools a lot of people..... it was originally part of the front quarter panel. Good luck on your project.
Do you have drawings measurements etc .. so I can make those templates
Yes, I sell templates. let me know what you need.
Qual a espessura a chapa?
Sheet metal is 18 gauge as original. .047" thick
your welcom
bom