Keep the thin walled aluminum spar. It is easier to replace and repair than the rest of the plane. It is a ductile weak link. If it is replaced with something stronger, you will do more damage to the wings. It also allows for more energy dissipation on crashing. It is a design feature and not a problem.
Agreed, when you have the size designed, just get alot of those tubes to replace with. You could also stuff then with that wooden roundstock to strengthten it with if you really need to.
@@iforce2d Instead of a hobby supplier try a metal supplier. www.mcmaster.com/aluminum-tubing. This is just one but I am sure you can find more. There are usually metal suppliers in brick and mortar sores as well that sell in small quantities to specialty fabricators. I think the key is to look at suppliers other than the hobby industry. The experimental aircraft industry may have something as well. Some of them will supply in small quantities. BTW, nice looking plane. It has been interesting seeing the development of the plane.
The landscape is even more stunning from up there. Nice video. That thing flies great. Ever thought of making one with bigger wingspan and longer tail moment? Would be super efficient.
Super! With all the experience you have with these 3 planes it will be awesome if you talk about what would you do differently if you remake the models in a video
The plane could probably gain some efficiency by playing around with the motor/prop combo. But as it is, it cruises quite fast with low wattage. I bet if you tried going the same speed with the talon, The slic3 would win. Great documentation of the process of learnig the airframe, love it. Keep it up.
Mentioned before how to avoid wing tip stall is, essentially keep the same profile for the tip as the root but, increase the thickness at the tip by 10% of the original, no washout required. Washout is fine for old timers at around 20 knot flying speed, do it on other models with a wide speed range and you will get "tuck-under" at high speed. For the wing spar we used to find a brass tube of required size permanently installed in the wings, with a "neat fit" brass tube to slide inside. You will find K&S tubing is made this way in all sizes. The inner tube is of course your spar which you fill with epoxy soaked carbon fibre tows. These are installed in the tube by trial and error working out required amount which is twice the length, doubled over in the centre and pulled through the tube with a draw string. We did try baking in an oven to cure but no difference in strength was ever observed. Another option could be the stainless steel curtain rod from hardware stores. Piece I have left over here is 15.9mm O.D. and a wall thickness of 0.6mm. As an added note, we could sure do with some of that wet stuff you have falling out of the sky over here in Aus.
This wing actually had the same profile and increasing thickness at the tip, possibly from reading your comment before, and possibly just because it makes the tip a bit more sturdy. It's 9% at root and 11% at tip I think. Yes, K&S is what I used here, unfortunately hard to get here in NZ, I got it from HobbyKing with a 2 week wait and it arrived a bit bent already. It's the perfect sizing but I'll not be in a hurry to purchase like that again. I'd love to send some rain your way, and if you could take the wind too that would be great. Two walls of my house were making creaking noises last night I had not heard before, was kinda worrying.
@@iforce2d heheheh...yes...know what you mean. Remember an old friend of mine once commented they would never return to live in what they referred to as "windy city". Before that I never seemed to notice. Learned to fly that way, light aircraft and rc later on without really noticing. Keep up the great work, really good to see your videos....... Jorgo (Aus east coast)
@@iforce2d How much incidence are you running on the main wing root? Most run at around 2 degrees for glider application. Another quick fix for tip stall is place a piece of plastic or light aluminium angle maybe 8" long along the inner section of the leading edge on each side with the pointy bit facing forward. What it does is makes the inner wing stall first.
That is an incredibly rearward main spar. Aerodynamic forces will be around 1/4 chord point which is where most wing spars are located so that a change in the lift force doesn’t cause the wing to twist. Superb bird though, looks pucker!
The spars are here (orange). www.iforce2d.net/tmp/Selection_072.png In the video we are looking at the slice edge shown in green, which is why it looks so far back.
I really like the approach of slicing to get complex geometries "easily" right.... and I am impressed by the flight performance (though you seem a bit disappointed). I wonder if you think that the chosen technique might be applied for heavier and bigger (2m - 2.5m wingspan) frames as well. We are planning to build UAVs with local communities and organisations in Africa, and I would believe that this way of building UAVs might be easily adapted to the possibilities "in the field". We are aiming at mapping (in fact rather monitoring) purposes, going for AUWs around 5kg, most probably even VTOL conversion.... Looking forward to your thoughts
Haha! Congrats on building a magpie-proof plane! Definitely put a dorsal-turret camera on there next time. :D Note on the assembly/spar woes, for future builds: In addition to the ply on the join point to prevent foam ripping, which is absolutely the right way to go, I've found from similar layouts that simply moving the breakpoint further out towards the wingtips can help. The highly loaded inboard portion gets more overall rigidity, and the lever arm of any impact - or midair turbulence/flutter loads - is decreased quite a lot. Given your V-tails seem to be fixed, making the separation point of the main wings have the same horizontal span position as the V-tail's tips will mean your plane isn't any wider than it currently is when packed down, from a convenience/"back seat of car" standpoint, but should make quite a difference to strength. Also agree with the people who suggested keeping the ally tube spar thin-walled to act as the weak link - better a badly bent bit of cheap, replaceable tubing than have your beautifully crafted wing soaking up the damage.
Yeah it's handy to prevent the rest of the plane from breaking, but I haven't found anywhere other than Hobby King that I can get these tubes from - so that's a 2 week or more wait, and about 50% of the time they arrive with a bend already. Would be nice to find somewhere local I can get them.
@@iforce2d Ah right. Yeah, if their availability is that poor, that does make the "sacrificial tube" setup less desirable... Solid wooden dowels seem pretty widely available, or did you already try them and find them unsuitable for other reasons?
@@iforce2d Absolutely. But the wooden load-spreader plates you were going to put at the break points can do that job nicely, as long as you insert a couple smaller plate-with-hole-in pieces further in to the center section so the ends of the dowels can't "lever" out through the foam in an impact. Then just run a center section spar - either another length of dowel, or a wooden strip standing on edge etc. - alongside that channel, either just ahead or behind. Or one strip spar ahead and another behind, so that instead of a hollow ally tube you have a hollow wooden box with round holes at either end. (It's awkward to explain by text alone, so if I'm not making sense I'll try to sketch it.)
I see what you mean, but I think it would need more friction than that. Right now I have about 20cm on each side where the aluminium contacts the dowel on the inside and the foam on the outside. Because the aluminium goes all the way through the wings are effectively friction fit to each other as well as to the fuselage. I also like that the aluminium extends about 12cm out from the fuselage on each side to provide more strength. I'm not too confident that the dowel alone would have lasted through even the handful of wing-tip first landings it had, with 60cm of very stiff wing levering against it. I might look into building some kind of wooden spar center-section into the fuselage next time though, instead of the aluminium. It would be more convenient to be able to make it from the bits of wood I already have lying around instead of needing to buy tubes.
Curious as to what airfoil you are using? the CL will be one of the major determining factors in stall speed, and the lift distribution characteristics of the airfoil will partially determine the Manner in which it stalls. The V-tail is certainly not helping either, in multiple ways, but probably not such a huge factor in overall success. Would be interesting to replace just the tail with a different kind, to find out. instead of retiring it, why not make it into a twin tractor, to test efficiency and handling of each, as a comparison? then change the tail after doing some flying? that's basically the path that led me to the configuration I'm using, and I learned a lot in the process. you could also experiment with different wingtips while you have it just the way it is.. easy to make, test, and change. anyway, nice to see! Great job, and hope you continue to use it as a test platform, rather than just starting over, and changing everything all at the same time... ??
The airfoil is pretty much like this: airfoiltools.com/airfoil/naca4digit?MNaca4DigitForm%5Bcamber%5D=2.5&MNaca4DigitForm%5Bposition%5D=33&MNaca4DigitForm%5Bthick%5D=10&MNaca4DigitForm%5BnumPoints%5D=81&MNaca4DigitForm%5BcosSpace%5D=0&MNaca4DigitForm%5BcosSpace%5D=1&MNaca4DigitForm%5BcloseTe%5D=0&yt0=Plot 9% thickness at root and 11% at the tip I think it was. I think I'd be more inclined to just make another plane than try to convert this one to twin tractor and saw off the tail to change it. I think one of the issues I'm having is that the wings have a fairly high angle of attack relative to the fuselage, I think about 3-4 degrees. Didn't seem like it would matter, but I think it contributes to the stalling problem because when I'm looking at the plane (flying LOS I mean) the wing angle is hard to see so I tend to base the pitch angle on the fuselage. That's probably why I also needed to strongly hold the nose down to get it to swoop close by me.
Add winglets and more washout to the wings. You could try to strak the wings, different airfoil inside and outside (outside a HQ winglet airfoil plus additional winglet).
Having no washout causes tip stalling. You could mix in flaperon to add lift and slow your landing down. Also that motor is pretty weak for a plane that size and pusher is only a good option for wings and you need a folding prop to stop breakages. Id look at a twin setup for wing mounted motors. Much better to have the air flow from forward mounted engines and props over your surfaces for optimal control at slow speed otherwise your relying on JUST air speed for control.
A Magpie... :) Those critters are notorious for protecting their airspace. LOL! Chris, have you ever tried to build in wash out in the wing to counteract tip stalling? Is that even possible?
Yes the previous plane (flying wing) had a lot of washout and it wouldn't tip-stall for trying ( th-cam.com/video/czo5jvjLURI/w-d-xo.html ) It's kinda difficult to build it into this one at this point though.
That bird pecking the Runcam was funny, I mean not once but multiple times..lol A six inch prop seems way too small for what is basically a large glider...When airspeed decays, control authority disappears, as with all aircraft..It would benefit from an ASI for sure as it's always cruising near the stall. The MT is way faster for the same amp draw and can carry an 8 amp 4S..although I'm pretty sure this one could carry the same and 4S would definitely improve its power and response...It is slower though, more drag, it's bigger....Wouldn't like to fly it in anything other than calm air...🤔🤔 4S and an 8 inch prop if the motor is capable?
Are you sure that erratic glitch in the one area ISN'T a bird attacking??? Sounds very similar to when a Magpie nails my pushbike helmet & especially randomness but confined to one area or territory is what has me thinking birds.... Not unless theres a signal being transmitted from or through the area (Our regional 'wireless' NBN can do similar things) but surely you'd know your that close to a repeater tower.....which again makes me think a bird.... As for the 3 planes & how they flew- which did you actually enjoy flying the most?/Which would you grab the first to go have a last minute 'quick' fly??? Thanks for the follow up & I hope your weather continues to get better (send us our rain back!!!) :v ;)
Some guy I was talking to the other day that does a lot of mapping was telling me how some times they have lots of trouble with the Hawks. I've had plenty of birds follow before, but never had anything actually strike.
If you're new to all this you might want to take a look at the Flite Test channel, they have many simple designs made from foamboard which is a much cheaper and easier way to get something flying. They also have quite cheap laser-cut kits that will save a lot of time.
Sure as hell looks and sounds better than a Mini Talon. And for the super lazy modelers out there are you gonna release all of you plane files? Sure would love to build one of the three you have designed. Thanks for all the great content
That bird was jealous of how slick your plane looked when cutting smoothly through the air. Just make the next version fly at a faster cruising speed and add a tail-cam to see how desperate the bird would be in trying to catch up.
14:54 Is it a bird attacking the plane? Edit: I thought you weren't going to reveal the answer but you did so I'll just let my pointless comment stay there
hi you being my fav youtuber i have a question. I have experience with park flyers and want to buy my first wing 100 to 150$. should i go with dw or sonicmodell ar or skyshadow? i want slow flying wing but one that can handle weather of canada too. thanks
Among the ones I have tried, the C1 Chaser is my favorite. The Sonicmodell AR wing also seems to be very good, although I have not personally tried it myself. AR wing is easier to set up for FPV and probably a bit tougher as well.
I think I was using a Xiaomi Yi for that, the shuttering was probably because the prop blades were between the sun and the camera. For these flights I'm using a Runcam2 and for the evening/twilight scenes I have to increase the gamma when editing the video so that the ground is not all dark.
quick off topic question ...as a flysky ia6 user !! the ia6b rx does rssi ...what sort of value levels should it be getting. i use the irangex 4 in 1 module in my qx7 and all the ia6b rx's give a constant low or critical rssi alarms...which puts me off using them ...is this something you could help with ???
On my FS-i6 the 'rssi' is shown as 'error', where 100% is bad and 0% is good. Anything below 50 is fine, should start to be careful when it gets above 60 I guess... On my FS-i6x there is a value called 'signal' which is 10 when the receiver is near and goes down to zero when it's out of range. No idea about how the modules work sorry. Note that the first situation I mention above is the reverse of how RSSI values work. Usually 100% is good, not bad, so perhaps this reversed value is messing things up.
@@iforce2d thanks for the reply, that was what i was hoping to hear ...qx7 with 4 in 1 is seeing 100 as good and opposite is what flysky sees ...now will be happy to use them...thank you sir ..!!!
Hi guys quick question for a new builder... when you connect the 2 wings left and right with the rods, how can you keep the wings connected during flight ? thank you experts
Typically there is not much force pulling the wings laterally during flight. For this one (and also my earlier one) they are just held on by friction between the foam and the tube/dowels. If the surface of the plane allows you can just use packing tape if you're worried about the wings sliding outward in flight.
@@iforce2d Many pilots don't realise that autotune won't work properly and just swaps roll with pitch, there are only almost neglictable angle adjustments, not visible on manual mode, only when FC takes the control it can behave a bit strangly. I asume you built-in angle of attack into a fuselage so your board lays horizontally flat?
I don't know how they could miss it, the artificial horizon display in Mission Planner makes it pretty clear which way the plane thinks it is moving. You also need to check that the control surfaces give the correct response, eg. by holding the plane and pitching the nose up, you should expect to see the elevator go up, and vice versa (in one of the auto-level modes of course). Yes I think the mounting point in this plane is pretty much horizontally flat, but it doesn't need to be. To set the desired 'level' angle, you place the plane at that angle and click 'calibrate level' on the 'Accel calibration' page: th-cam.com/video/WVI7B4IfdKI/w-d-xo.html
I think we might be talking about different flight controllers... I'm using Arduplane, am not aware of any 'autotrim' for plane. But I have heard that iNav has that.
Keep the thin walled aluminum spar. It is easier to replace and repair than the rest of the plane. It is a ductile weak link. If it is replaced with something stronger, you will do more damage to the wings. It also allows for more energy dissipation on crashing. It is a design feature and not a problem.
"it's not a bug it's a feature"
Agreed, when you have the size designed, just get alot of those tubes to replace with.
You could also stuff then with that wooden roundstock to strengthten it with if you really need to.
@@Shreyam_io Hopefully he will. We will see.
True, it's hard to find those tubes though, I got that from HobbyKing, two week wait or more and it arrived a bit bent already.
@@iforce2d Instead of a hobby supplier try a metal supplier. www.mcmaster.com/aluminum-tubing. This is just one but I am sure you can find more. There are usually metal suppliers in brick and mortar sores as well that sell in small quantities to specialty fabricators. I think the key is to look at suppliers other than the hobby industry. The experimental aircraft industry may have something as well. Some of them will supply in small quantities.
BTW, nice looking plane. It has been interesting seeing the development of the plane.
Great series and I like your plane quite a bit. I enjoyed it very much. Thanks for sharing!
The landscape is even more stunning from up there. Nice video. That thing flies great. Ever thought of making one with bigger wingspan and longer tail moment? Would be super efficient.
This build puts my Mini Talon to shame. It's gorgeous. If there was a kit, I'd buy it. Love the channel, keep'em coming.
Super! With all the experience you have with these 3 planes it will be awesome if you talk about what would you do differently if you remake the models in a video
The plane could probably gain some efficiency by playing around with the motor/prop combo.
But as it is, it cruises quite fast with low wattage. I bet if you tried going the same speed with the talon, The slic3 would win. Great documentation of the process of learnig the airframe, love it. Keep it up.
This series is absolutely the best. I look forward to every vid
It really was a treat watching the flight video. A rear facing camera would have driven the number of views through the roof!
Would love to see some li-ion packs for some longer flights. Seems like winner. Looks really good!
Mentioned before how to avoid wing tip stall is, essentially keep the same profile for the tip as the root but, increase the thickness at the tip by 10% of the original, no washout required.
Washout is fine for old timers at around 20 knot flying speed, do it on other models with a wide speed range and you will get "tuck-under" at high speed.
For the wing spar we used to find a brass tube of required size permanently installed in the wings, with a "neat fit" brass tube to slide inside.
You will find K&S tubing is made this way in all sizes.
The inner tube is of course your spar which you fill with epoxy soaked carbon fibre tows. These are installed in the tube by trial and error working out required amount which is twice the length, doubled over in the centre and pulled through the tube with a draw string.
We did try baking in an oven to cure but no difference in strength was ever observed.
Another option could be the stainless steel curtain rod from hardware stores. Piece I have left over here is 15.9mm O.D. and a wall thickness of 0.6mm.
As an added note, we could sure do with some of that wet stuff you have falling out of the sky over here in Aus.
This wing actually had the same profile and increasing thickness at the tip, possibly from reading your comment before, and possibly just because it makes the tip a bit more sturdy. It's 9% at root and 11% at tip I think.
Yes, K&S is what I used here, unfortunately hard to get here in NZ, I got it from HobbyKing with a 2 week wait and it arrived a bit bent already. It's the perfect sizing but I'll not be in a hurry to purchase like that again.
I'd love to send some rain your way, and if you could take the wind too that would be great. Two walls of my house were making creaking noises last night I had not heard before, was kinda worrying.
@@iforce2d heheheh...yes...know what you mean. Remember an old friend of mine once commented they would never return to live in what they referred to as "windy city". Before that I never seemed to notice. Learned to fly that way, light aircraft and rc later on without really noticing.
Keep up the great work, really good to see your videos....... Jorgo (Aus east coast)
@@iforce2d How much incidence are you running on the main wing root?
Most run at around 2 degrees for glider application.
Another quick fix for tip stall is place a piece of plastic or light aluminium angle maybe 8" long along the inner section of the leading edge on each side with the pointy bit facing forward.
What it does is makes the inner wing stall first.
I still want to see you do a lifting body plane. Love your videos.
Impressive plane, very sturdy
Thanks for sharing👍😀
That is an incredibly rearward main spar. Aerodynamic forces will be around 1/4 chord point which is where most wing spars are located so that a change in the lift force doesn’t cause the wing to twist. Superb bird though, looks pucker!
The spars are here (orange).
www.iforce2d.net/tmp/Selection_072.png
In the video we are looking at the slice edge shown in green, which is why it looks so far back.
I really like the approach of slicing to get complex geometries "easily" right.... and I am impressed by the flight performance (though you seem a bit disappointed). I wonder if you think that the chosen technique might be applied for heavier and bigger (2m - 2.5m wingspan) frames as well. We are planning to build UAVs with local communities and organisations in Africa, and I would believe that this way of building UAVs might be easily adapted to the possibilities "in the field". We are aiming at mapping (in fact rather monitoring) purposes, going for AUWs around 5kg, most probably even VTOL conversion.... Looking forward to your thoughts
thats one amazing bird!
And one neat plane :)
Haha! Congrats on building a magpie-proof plane! Definitely put a dorsal-turret camera on there next time. :D
Note on the assembly/spar woes, for future builds: In addition to the ply on the join point to prevent foam ripping, which is absolutely the right way to go, I've found from similar layouts that simply moving the breakpoint further out towards the wingtips can help. The highly loaded inboard portion gets more overall rigidity, and the lever arm of any impact - or midair turbulence/flutter loads - is decreased quite a lot. Given your V-tails seem to be fixed, making the separation point of the main wings have the same horizontal span position as the V-tail's tips will mean your plane isn't any wider than it currently is when packed down, from a convenience/"back seat of car" standpoint, but should make quite a difference to strength.
Also agree with the people who suggested keeping the ally tube spar thin-walled to act as the weak link - better a badly bent bit of cheap, replaceable tubing than have your beautifully crafted wing soaking up the damage.
Yeah it's handy to prevent the rest of the plane from breaking, but I haven't found anywhere other than Hobby King that I can get these tubes from - so that's a 2 week or more wait, and about 50% of the time they arrive with a bend already. Would be nice to find somewhere local I can get them.
@@iforce2d Ah right. Yeah, if their availability is that poor, that does make the "sacrificial tube" setup less desirable... Solid wooden dowels seem pretty widely available, or did you already try them and find them unsuitable for other reasons?
The wing spars are wooden dowel. But they need something to slot into right... well, only if you want to make it dismantle-able I guess.
@@iforce2d Absolutely. But the wooden load-spreader plates you were going to put at the break points can do that job nicely, as long as you insert a couple smaller plate-with-hole-in pieces further in to the center section so the ends of the dowels can't "lever" out through the foam in an impact. Then just run a center section spar - either another length of dowel, or a wooden strip standing on edge etc. - alongside that channel, either just ahead or behind. Or one strip spar ahead and another behind, so that instead of a hollow ally tube you have a hollow wooden box with round holes at either end. (It's awkward to explain by text alone, so if I'm not making sense I'll try to sketch it.)
I see what you mean, but I think it would need more friction than that. Right now I have about 20cm on each side where the aluminium contacts the dowel on the inside and the foam on the outside. Because the aluminium goes all the way through the wings are effectively friction fit to each other as well as to the fuselage. I also like that the aluminium extends about 12cm out from the fuselage on each side to provide more strength. I'm not too confident that the dowel alone would have lasted through even the handful of wing-tip first landings it had, with 60cm of very stiff wing levering against it.
I might look into building some kind of wooden spar center-section into the fuselage next time though, instead of the aluminium. It would be more convenient to be able to make it from the bits of wood I already have lying around instead of needing to buy tubes.
Curious as to what airfoil you are using? the CL will be one of the major determining factors in stall speed, and the lift distribution characteristics of the airfoil will partially determine the Manner in which it stalls. The V-tail is certainly not helping either, in multiple ways, but probably not such a huge factor in overall success. Would be interesting to replace just the tail with a different kind, to find out.
instead of retiring it, why not make it into a twin tractor, to test efficiency and handling of each, as a comparison? then change the tail after doing some flying? that's basically the path that led me to the configuration I'm using, and I learned a lot in the process. you could also experiment with different wingtips while you have it just the way it is.. easy to make, test, and change. anyway, nice to see! Great job, and hope you continue to use it as a test platform, rather than just starting over, and changing everything all at the same time... ??
The airfoil is pretty much like this:
airfoiltools.com/airfoil/naca4digit?MNaca4DigitForm%5Bcamber%5D=2.5&MNaca4DigitForm%5Bposition%5D=33&MNaca4DigitForm%5Bthick%5D=10&MNaca4DigitForm%5BnumPoints%5D=81&MNaca4DigitForm%5BcosSpace%5D=0&MNaca4DigitForm%5BcosSpace%5D=1&MNaca4DigitForm%5BcloseTe%5D=0&yt0=Plot
9% thickness at root and 11% at the tip I think it was.
I think I'd be more inclined to just make another plane than try to convert this one to twin tractor and saw off the tail to change it.
I think one of the issues I'm having is that the wings have a fairly high angle of attack relative to the fuselage, I think about 3-4 degrees. Didn't seem like it would matter, but I think it contributes to the stalling problem because when I'm looking at the plane (flying LOS I mean) the wing angle is hard to see so I tend to base the pitch angle on the fuselage. That's probably why I also needed to strongly hold the nose down to get it to swoop close by me.
Man, i would kill to have a place like that to fly, and right out your front door even.
Add winglets and more washout to the wings. You could try to strak the wings, different airfoil inside and outside (outside a HQ winglet airfoil plus additional winglet).
Having no washout causes tip stalling. You could mix in flaperon to add lift and slow your landing down. Also that motor is pretty weak for a plane that size and pusher is only a good option for wings and you need a folding prop to stop breakages. Id look at a twin setup for wing mounted motors. Much better to have the air flow from forward mounted engines and props over your surfaces for optimal control at slow speed otherwise your relying on JUST air speed for control.
Try some washout on the wing tips (1-2deg) should help reduce tip stalls at low speeds... Just a thought...
Yes that worked well on my last plane, not much I can do about it on this one now though.
A Magpie... :) Those critters are notorious for protecting their airspace. LOL! Chris, have you ever tried to build in wash out in the wing to counteract tip stalling? Is that even possible?
Yes the previous plane (flying wing) had a lot of washout and it wouldn't tip-stall for trying ( th-cam.com/video/czo5jvjLURI/w-d-xo.html )
It's kinda difficult to build it into this one at this point though.
Great build!! As are all the rest of the home slice planes!
Do you think you could do a 2019 tri copter build?
Wow!! Bird strikes and I'm guessing a stall? with a hard hit,and minimal damage! I'd say you built a flying tank..:)
That bird pecking the Runcam was funny, I mean not once but multiple times..lol
A six inch prop seems way too small for what is basically a large glider...When airspeed decays, control authority disappears, as with all aircraft..It would benefit from an ASI for sure as it's always cruising near the stall. The MT is way faster for the same amp draw and can carry an 8 amp 4S..although I'm pretty sure this one could carry the same and 4S would definitely improve its power and response...It is slower though, more drag, it's bigger....Wouldn't like to fly it in anything other than calm air...🤔🤔 4S and an 8 inch prop if the motor is capable?
Seems to handle the birds pretty well.
Are you sure that erratic glitch in the one area ISN'T a bird attacking???
Sounds very similar to when a Magpie nails my pushbike helmet & especially randomness but confined to one area or territory is what has me thinking birds....
Not unless theres a signal being transmitted from or through the area (Our regional 'wireless' NBN can do similar things) but surely you'd know your that close to a repeater tower.....which again makes me think a bird....
As for the 3 planes & how they flew- which did you actually enjoy flying the most?/Which would you grab the first to go have a last minute 'quick' fly???
Thanks for the follow up & I hope your weather continues to get better (send us our rain back!!!) :v ;)
yes, the magpie was shown at 15:39
So far the first one has been the most pleasant overall to fly
Some guy I was talking to the other day that does a lot of mapping was telling me how some times they have lots of trouble with the Hawks. I've had plenty of birds follow before, but never had anything actually strike.
Yeah same. Many times the magpies have come near but never actually contacted before.
Tape on some tailfeathers for the locals to pluck.
I was going to say Electric fence then Saw that Cheeky Magpie.......Man they are territorial
Vertical wing tips and a lighter battery i recon
Could you describe or make a tutorial how to make a simple plane frame and what materials are good to make it?
he has videos documenting the making of every one of his planes ;)
If you're new to all this you might want to take a look at the Flite Test channel, they have many simple designs made from foamboard which is a much cheaper and easier way to get something flying. They also have quite cheap laser-cut kits that will save a lot of time.
Beautiful place you fly at my friend, where is it?
New Zealand
Sure as hell looks and sounds better than a Mini Talon. And for the super lazy modelers out there are you gonna release all of you plane files? Sure would love to build one of the three you have designed. Thanks for all the great content
That bird was jealous of how slick your plane looked when cutting smoothly through the air. Just make the next version fly at a faster cruising speed and add a tail-cam to see how desperate the bird would be in trying to catch up.
14:54 Is it a bird attacking the plane?
Edit: I thought you weren't going to reveal the answer but you did so I'll just let my pointless comment stay there
a tail skid?
Hello Chris, sorry for my ignorance.
Is it necessary to twist the tip of the V-Tail? Should I worry if the V-Tail tip-stalled?
No, I don't think that would be an issue.
Super 👍
hi you being my fav youtuber i have a question. I have experience with park flyers and want to buy my first wing 100 to 150$. should i go with dw or sonicmodell ar or skyshadow? i want slow flying wing but one that can handle weather of canada too. thanks
Among the ones I have tried, the C1 Chaser is my favorite. The Sonicmodell AR wing also seems to be very good, although I have not personally tried it myself. AR wing is easier to set up for FPV and probably a bit tougher as well.
@@iforce2d C1 Chaser it is then. thanks
I remember the 450 quad, the flight footage was fantastic, are you using the same camera settings? Seemed to remove some of the shuttering??
I think I was using a Xiaomi Yi for that, the shuttering was probably because the prop blades were between the sun and the camera. For these flights I'm using a Runcam2 and for the evening/twilight scenes I have to increase the gamma when editing the video so that the ground is not all dark.
quick off topic question ...as a flysky ia6 user !! the ia6b rx does rssi ...what sort of value levels should it be getting.
i use the irangex 4 in 1 module in my qx7 and all the ia6b rx's give a constant low or critical rssi alarms...which puts me off using them ...is this something you could help with ???
On my FS-i6 the 'rssi' is shown as 'error', where 100% is bad and 0% is good. Anything below 50 is fine, should start to be careful when it gets above 60 I guess...
On my FS-i6x there is a value called 'signal' which is 10 when the receiver is near and goes down to zero when it's out of range.
No idea about how the modules work sorry. Note that the first situation I mention above is the reverse of how RSSI values work. Usually 100% is good, not bad, so perhaps this reversed value is messing things up.
@@iforce2d thanks for the reply, that was what i was hoping to hear ...qx7 with 4 in 1 is seeing 100 as good and opposite is what flysky sees ...now will be happy to use them...thank you sir ..!!!
Birdstrike?
:)
Have you tried doing some acrobatics with it? I know I wouldn't resist at least trying...
Hi guys quick question for a new builder... when you connect the 2 wings left and right with the rods, how can you keep the wings connected during flight ? thank you experts
Welcro/Hook and loop, rubber band, friction or plain simple tape.
Typically there is not much force pulling the wings laterally during flight. For this one (and also my earlier one) they are just held on by friction between the foam and the tube/dowels. If the surface of the plane allows you can just use packing tape if you're worried about the wings sliding outward in flight.
What flight controller du you use? Pixihawk?
arduplane on omnibus f4 pro
I'm guessing electric fence pulses have an emp effect?
magpie, shown at 15:39
Better sacrifice the tube than damage the wing maybe?
Also you really are out in the wops aren't you.
sounds like bird attacks to me?
yes, the magpie shown at 15:39
Do you know that your FC board orientation swaps roll with pitch?
yes, otherwise it would never have flown properly :)
@@iforce2d
Many pilots don't realise that autotune won't work properly and just swaps roll with pitch, there are only almost neglictable angle adjustments, not visible on manual mode, only when FC takes the control it can behave a bit strangly. I asume you built-in angle of attack into a fuselage so your board lays horizontally flat?
I don't know how they could miss it, the artificial horizon display in Mission Planner makes it pretty clear which way the plane thinks it is moving. You also need to check that the control surfaces give the correct response, eg. by holding the plane and pitching the nose up, you should expect to see the elevator go up, and vice versa (in one of the auto-level modes of course).
Yes I think the mounting point in this plane is pretty much horizontally flat, but it doesn't need to be. To set the desired 'level' angle, you place the plane at that angle and click 'calibrate level' on the 'Accel calibration' page: th-cam.com/video/WVI7B4IfdKI/w-d-xo.html
@@iforce2d
I just realized it was not autotune but autotrim that swaps pitch with roll in boards adjustments.
I think we might be talking about different flight controllers... I'm using Arduplane, am not aware of any 'autotrim' for plane. But I have heard that iNav has that.
Meh, just local airforce didn't like you entering their sky
#iforce2d, Your just awesome
I think you should call her Moby; as in Moby Dick.
Tentpoles.
HI
Now all you need to do is make a man sized one and go for a ride