Hi Roger! Use some cone washers and jam nuts to preload the bus bar to torque spec that allows the bus bar to slip while keeping good contact while the cells expand and contract..You'll should get a better contact area against the flat surface area of the welded studs base, rather than count on the threads crest to bus edge. Also if you discharge and charge at close to 1C it is advisable to keep the cell in compression . Keep up the good work my friend!
Just out of curiosity why are you still running the old 2 wire electronic loads? The original DL24 (150W/20A but actually can be adjusted up to 25A) are $22 shipped to my door off Aliexpress Their modular unit (DL24MP) is $70’ish or less if you catch it on sale for 600W/40A but absolutely requires additional heat dissipation or upgraded heatsinks for the mosfets. I use a 10” desk fan on its highest setting to keep it running under 55 Celsius when I’m running over 300W. You can apparently add more modules for 1200W but 40A remains the constant current limit. Should come out right at $100. Can’t touch that price with any other electronic load and even rigging up power resistors would be more expensive and less flexible.
What gauge wire is that? You stated it was 6 mm but that is like 2 gauge which obviously that cable is not. So what conversion do I look at. One table gives wire in mm and the other gives it in mm2. 6mm2 is similar to 10 gauge wire according to a chart that converts mm2 cabling to AWG. I get so confused on this conversion thing. Do we use the mm measurement or the mm2 measurement?
i know i'm 7 month late but for other visitors; wire cross section is always mm2 => millimeter squared. you never use the diameter. a copper busbar could be 300mm2 in a flat busbar that is 10mm height and 30mm width. also on top info: 4A per millimeter squared of cross section. so 50mm2 can carry 200A continuous in a DC usecase.
Help please... Is it possible to build a battery with the cells arranged in a different way than we usually see? I am planning to build a battery in which the cells are lying on their side...is this a bad idea...?
@camperman759 ...I was not able to find a file on the internet that explains the recommendations for using the cells... Do you have any material or link that you can share with me...? Thanks for your help
No problem whatsoever. I actually stuff them that way in 4 rows of 4 cells in series on top four 1/2" plywood shelves secured between the studs of my garage. Since they are on a 16" center spacing, that leaves 14.5" space for 4 cells with nuts facing me for convenient connection and routing of the BMS and active balancer wires. Each row is connected to the next with a 12 inch 2 AWG flex stranded cable. A clear plexiglass plate cover all the exposed terminals to protect from accidental shorts. The BMS and AB are mounter on the other side of the stud together with the DC breakers. I found this setup very convenient as it really implements the concept of "PowerWall". So far I have 2 banks of 48 V laid that way, but I could have easily continued if I did not get a 19" rack for free from the Craigslist while buying 2 rack mount 10KW 48V modules that I got for very cheap. I just could not resist the deal... But to be honest the PowerWall concept is way more flexible AND accessible. Either way... Life is Good
Yes there are bad ways to orient the cells. Solar Engineering has cells laying on their side (I guess you would say hamburger style/horizontal not vertical) and that plus no compression is causing swelling. I would only stand them up with compression. But that’s just me.
Voltage drops significantly when you drew higher current from these batteries. I guess internal resistance are high. I would not buy these cells. Thanks for the video
The shunt have the bms between itself and battery negative terminal and the shunts positive lead is on the inverters input. 170amp through a 200a bms and through those relative thin and long battery cables will give quite a significant voltage drop and that is what the shunt is measuring in this configuration.
![Easy way to Top Balance DIY LiFePO4 battery [using EVE 304Ah LiFePO4 cells]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lLUElTvsYmo/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Roger! Use some cone washers and jam nuts to preload the bus bar to torque spec that allows the bus bar to slip while keeping good contact while the cells expand and contract..You'll should get a better contact area against the flat surface area of the welded studs base, rather than count on the threads crest to bus edge. Also if you discharge and charge at close to 1C it is advisable to keep the cell in compression . Keep up the good work my friend!
Just out of curiosity why are you still running the old 2 wire electronic loads? The original DL24 (150W/20A but actually can be adjusted up to 25A) are $22 shipped to my door off Aliexpress
Their modular unit (DL24MP) is $70’ish or less if you catch it on sale for 600W/40A but absolutely requires additional heat dissipation or upgraded heatsinks for the mosfets. I use a 10” desk fan on its highest setting to keep it running under 55 Celsius when I’m running over 300W.
You can apparently add more modules for 1200W but 40A remains the constant current limit. Should come out right at $100. Can’t touch that price with any other electronic load and even rigging up power resistors would be more expensive and less flexible.
What gauge wire is that? You stated it was 6 mm but that is like 2 gauge which obviously that cable is not.
So what conversion do I look at. One table gives wire in mm and the other gives it in mm2. 6mm2 is similar to 10 gauge wire according to a chart that converts mm2 cabling to AWG. I get so confused on this conversion thing. Do we use the mm measurement or the mm2 measurement?
i know i'm 7 month late but for other visitors;
wire cross section is always mm2 => millimeter squared. you never use the diameter. a copper busbar could be 300mm2 in a flat busbar that is 10mm height and 30mm width.
also on top info: 4A per millimeter squared of cross section. so 50mm2 can carry 200A continuous in a DC usecase.
Help please... Is it possible to build a battery with the cells arranged in a different way than we usually see? I am planning to build a battery in which the cells are lying on their side...is this a bad idea...?
@camperman759 ...I was not able to find a file on the internet that explains the recommendations for using the cells... Do you have any material or link that you can share with me...? Thanks for your help
No problem whatsoever. I actually stuff them that way in 4 rows of 4 cells in series on top four 1/2" plywood shelves secured between the studs of my garage. Since they are on a 16" center spacing, that leaves 14.5" space for 4 cells with nuts facing me for convenient connection and routing of the BMS and active balancer wires. Each row is connected to the next with a 12 inch 2 AWG flex stranded cable. A clear plexiglass plate cover all the exposed terminals to protect from accidental shorts. The BMS and AB are mounter on the other side of the stud together with the DC breakers. I found this setup very convenient as it really implements the concept of "PowerWall". So far I have 2 banks of 48 V laid that way, but I could have easily continued if I did not get a 19" rack for free from the Craigslist while buying 2 rack mount 10KW 48V modules that I got for very cheap. I just could not resist the deal... But to be honest the PowerWall concept is way more flexible AND accessible. Either way... Life is Good
Yes there are bad ways to orient the cells. Solar Engineering has cells laying on their side (I guess you would say hamburger style/horizontal not vertical) and that plus no compression is causing swelling.
I would only stand them up with compression. But that’s just me.
There are washers that level the surface.
Voltage drops significantly when you drew higher current from these batteries. I guess internal resistance are high. I would not buy these cells. Thanks for the video
The shunt have the bms between itself and battery negative terminal and the shunts positive lead is on the inverters input. 170amp through a 200a bms and through those relative thin and long battery cables will give quite a significant voltage drop and that is what the shunt is measuring in this configuration.
@sugarpuffextrem do you think cable length and thickness caused this voltage drop?
and bms, the bms got so hot he couldnt touch it.@@goobiie
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