Ah...sorry mate, I'm down in Australia. Old tools and old mechanics like this don't exist, it's all modern machinery,computers and bloody expensive prices unfortunately
Nice job on the drums Mike, I'm surprised they cleaned up with just 2 or 3 passes. Looks like they are starving for some Brake Shoes to press up against them.. I like the flathead with the 3 deuces in that Gentleman's Model A.. sweet..
Nice old machine. Back in the late 60's early 70's it was $5 a pass.at the local parts store. When I did elevator brakes we dropped the shoes off at a bonifide brake shop to be relined. There was an old crotchity guy there that wouldn 't do them right away. Make you wait. No matter how you pleaded. People want their elevator back. I figured the more you bitched at him the better he liked you. So, you had to go in ranting and raving about how slow and old he was. He loved that. Got 'em done faster. Ahh, life in the old days !
That engine in the A is beautiful!!!! About the drum turning machine, if you buy everything you want you won't have room to move , just buy a lathe which has the lift-out bed section, that way you can machine ( dare I say disc brakes as well). Did your friend change you to do it?????? I dont mean BEER money ! If so, he isn't much of a friend!!!!
Deep pitting but still round is good enough for me just nature's way of dealing with the outgassing problem. Okay sure the shoes wear faster but if it is not on the race track who cares.
If you are wanting a versatile brake lathe , have a look at one made by AMMCO. We had one at work that was made in the early 60's and is still going strong. The current model hasn't changed much since the 60s because it doesn't need to because its good.
@@IronTrapGarage Yes its a table top unit. It comes with a shadow board that you can mount on a wall behind it. It comes with adapters and a rubber anti vibration belt to wrap around the drum so it doesn't leave shatter marks.You can turn discs and drums on it. It only take a few minutes to change from drum machining to disc machining. There are videos on TH-cam on it. That pile of motors is a bit of a goldmine. I hope you can make the guy some money and maybe get some parts for yourself for helping.
Thanks for the info I'll be on the lookout for that one as well! I'm sure I'll stumble on a good drum lathe sometime soon! I'm having a good time digging around all of those old engines and parts. Always an adventure! -Matt/ITG
I use to rearc the brake shoe lining to match the radius of the drum. If you didn't there would not be full contact between them causing lesser braking power until the shoes wore in. When you say "bind" are you saying the brakes lock up ? I've done many drum brake jobs not rearcing the shoes and never had a bind.
Using the word “BIND” probably wasn’t the best word I could have used, so sorry for any inconvenience caused. Machining the friction surface of a brake drum increases the diameter, which might require oversized shoes to maintain proper contact with the drum. Re-arc brake shoes to match the arc within brake drums. If not re-arched the leading edge, or the centre of the brake shoe can heat up prematurely leading to the drum warping, or getting out of shape, incorrect brake pedal feel, longer brake distance, etc. If the shoes aren't correctly fit to the drum, the brake wont do their job as normal. This is all I was answering to. Love your show, keep up the great work Iron Trap Garage
Hit me up guys. I've got a VERY Complete Van-Dorn valve resurfacer/valve seat grinder kit that your shop needs!! It's not in my way and I use it on occasion, but mostly on small engines. I've got a set of manual valve cutters I use most often. Check my videos where I show the valve resurfacer kit and hit me up if you're interested. Cheers! Zip~
Hey Zip, I'd love to have one of those but I don't do much engine work in my shop and I'm nearing capacity so I'm trying to only keep tools I use regularly until I can add an addition onto the shop for storage. Thanks for the generous offer though! -Matt/ITG
Absolutely Matt! Keep up the great content! Maybe your guy that turns drums could use it? Put the word out. Could be shipped Fastenal Logistics anywhere in the US for about $50. Cheers! Zip~ And, thanks for getting back to me.
These get blasted and painted next. Just didn’t have time to get them cleaned before John cut them. Don’t worry it’ll all get cleaned and painted before installation!
It varies where you’re at when buying or selling. Anywhere from $5 to $50. I usually don’t pay more than 5-10$ since you can’t tell if they’re good right off the bat. But in a pinch I’ve paid more! -Matt/ITG
That was only half of the job!! Turning the drum increases the inside diameter of drum and the brake shoes need to be rearched to match each drum so the shoes make full contact with drum. If you don't re-arch your shoes you may only have 50%contact at first and over time the shoes will gradually make more contact with wear.
This was a total waste of time for me I was hoping you would have talked about checking drum thickness and how to be very careful not to remove very much off so they don’t go beyond the tolerances because these old drums are getting harder to find in good shape. Stuff like that.
Sorry for the lack of depth on this one. Mike ran the drums over for me to have cut and couldn’t fully speak on it. Next set I’ll go in depth more myself. -Matt/ITG
Have my dads old Drum machine ... we used it in his gas station repair shop my years ago.
Wow I didn't realize that I was first,which is a first time for me ever !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I loved turning drums and rotors.
I need to get myself a small table top drum cutter, been putting it off for too long. -Matt/ITG
How cool is the drum cutter!! I could definately do with one of those with 4 cars to get done over the next few years.
Yea we want one too! If you want them cut John can do it for you if you want to mail them out to him. He does a great job!
Ah...sorry mate, I'm down in Australia. Old tools and old mechanics like this don't exist, it's all modern machinery,computers and bloody expensive prices unfortunately
Another great video 👍
Nice job on the drums Mike, I'm surprised they cleaned up with just 2 or 3 passes. Looks like they are starving for some Brake Shoes to press up against them.. I like the flathead with the 3 deuces in that Gentleman's Model A.. sweet..
Yea we got lucky, I was hoping they weren't junk! Thanks for watching Robbie. -Matt/ITG
Nice old machine. Back in the late 60's early 70's it was $5 a pass.at the local parts store. When I did elevator brakes we dropped the shoes off at a bonifide brake shop to be relined. There was an old crotchity guy there that wouldn 't do them right away. Make you wait. No matter how you pleaded. People want their elevator back. I figured the more you bitched at him the better he liked you. So, you had to go in ranting and raving about how slow and old he was. He loved that. Got 'em done faster. Ahh, life in the old days !
just turned my front drums had a bad pulsation all good now.
That engine in the A is beautiful!!!! About the drum turning machine, if you buy everything you want you won't have room to move , just buy a lathe which has the lift-out bed section, that way you can machine ( dare I say disc brakes as well). Did your friend change you to do it?????? I dont mean BEER money ! If so, he isn't much of a friend!!!!
Deep pitting but still round is good enough for me just nature's way of dealing with the outgassing problem. Okay sure the shoes wear faster but if it is not on the race track who cares.
Still don’t know weather there centre till there on the spindles
If you are wanting a versatile brake lathe , have a look at one made by AMMCO. We had one at work that was made in the early 60's and is still going strong. The current model hasn't changed much since the 60s because it doesn't need to because its good.
Thanks Andrew! Is it a floor mount or table top unit? I’d like a table top unit to save space. -Matt/ITG
@@IronTrapGarage Yes its a table top unit. It comes with a shadow board that you can mount on a wall behind it. It comes with adapters and a rubber anti vibration belt to wrap around the drum so it doesn't leave shatter marks.You can turn discs and drums on it. It only take a few minutes to change from drum machining to disc machining. There are videos on TH-cam on it. That pile of motors is a bit of a goldmine. I hope you can make the guy some money and maybe get some parts for yourself for helping.
Thanks for the info I'll be on the lookout for that one as well! I'm sure I'll stumble on a good drum lathe sometime soon! I'm having a good time digging around all of those old engines and parts. Always an adventure! -Matt/ITG
check your brake shoes for the correct circumference coz they'll bind
I use to rearc the brake shoe lining to match the radius of the drum. If you didn't there would not be full contact between them causing lesser braking power until the shoes wore in.
When you say "bind" are you saying the brakes lock up ? I've done many drum brake jobs not rearcing the shoes and never had a bind.
just saying mate, you don't wanna get incorrect wear
@@mick_1949 But explain your term "bind" ?
Bind is different than incorrect wear.
Thanks
Using the word “BIND” probably wasn’t the best word I could have used, so sorry for any inconvenience caused.
Machining the friction surface of a brake drum increases the diameter, which might require oversized shoes to maintain proper contact with the drum.
Re-arc brake shoes to match the arc within brake drums. If not re-arched the leading edge, or the centre of the brake shoe can heat up prematurely leading to the drum warping, or getting out of shape, incorrect brake pedal feel, longer brake distance, etc.
If the shoes aren't correctly fit to the drum, the brake wont do their job as normal.
This is all I was answering to.
Love your show, keep up the great work Iron Trap Garage
@@mick_1949 Thanks for your reply
Is the band on the drum there to wick away heat?
@Mike Gurnow I was wondering about that. I thought it might act as a scatter shield in case the drum shattered.
@@roberttaylor5999 It is used to prevent the drum from vibrating.
Hit me up guys. I've got a VERY Complete Van-Dorn valve resurfacer/valve seat grinder kit that your shop needs!! It's not in my way and I use it on occasion, but mostly on small engines. I've got a set of manual valve cutters I use most often. Check my videos where I show the valve resurfacer kit and hit me up if you're interested. Cheers! Zip~
Hey Zip, I'd love to have one of those but I don't do much engine work in my shop and I'm nearing capacity so I'm trying to only keep tools I use regularly until I can add an addition onto the shop for storage. Thanks for the generous offer though! -Matt/ITG
Absolutely Matt! Keep up the great content! Maybe your guy that turns drums could use it? Put the word out. Could be shipped Fastenal Logistics anywhere in the US for about $50. Cheers! Zip~ And, thanks for getting back to me.
What was the purpose of the belt around the brake drum?
The belt reduces vibration/chattering.
@@andrewevans1658 thanks!
So....back in the day...a "Brake drum turning tool" was called a Brake Lathe....seems I recall.
Hey Mike did Matt purchase another tool (on your right when you were finishing up with the video)?
There might just be a Tools That Don't Suck/Adventure Video coming up featuring that! Good eye! Stay tuned! -Matt/ITG
I’m surprised you don’t bead blast something with rust and put a little paint them!
These get blasted and painted next. Just didn’t have time to get them cleaned before John cut them. Don’t worry it’ll all get cleaned and painted before installation!
Whats a good pair of wide 5 front drums worth these days?
It varies where you’re at when buying or selling. Anywhere from $5 to $50. I usually don’t pay more than 5-10$ since you can’t tell if they’re good right off the bat. But in a pinch I’ve paid more! -Matt/ITG
That was only half of the job!! Turning the drum increases the inside diameter of drum and the brake shoes need to be rearched to match each drum so the shoes make full contact with drum. If you don't re-arch your shoes you may only have 50%contact at first and over time the shoes will gradually make more contact with wear.
Arck the shoes to fit the drums..
not first
This was a total waste of time for me I was hoping you would have talked about checking drum thickness and how to be very careful not to remove very much off so they don’t go beyond the tolerances because these old drums are getting harder to find in good shape. Stuff like that.
Sorry for the lack of depth on this one. Mike ran the drums over for me to have cut and couldn’t fully speak on it. Next set I’ll go in depth more myself. -Matt/ITG
You call yourself a garage but are mesmerized by an old brake drum lathe? And then don't even explain how it works.
Who said we were mesmerized? Just sharing the journey of building this car. Not every video is a long drawn out explanation.