Thank you for the content. Very helpful while I was installing new Deaver leaf spring pack. However, I have to say the torque process for the U-bolts is just dumb. For example, how are you supposed to recheck the torque after a few hundred miles of driving when there isn't a stated nominal torque value? What are you supposed to do... loosen everything... got to 59 ft/lbs followed by 135 degrees again? That would completely defeat the purpose of just rechecking the initial torque. Any ideas on how to reliably re-check U-bolt torque?
Thanks for watching and glad I could offer so info. I agree about the torque process. I’ve since added their XL leaf and recently removed it. Lots of changes since this was filmed. I’m at 110k miles and have had zero issues while using the factory method. My check after a few hundred miles is just making sure it’s still good and tight.
Great content! Thank you! I have a Bison as well and I'll be adding a GFC camper in a couple of months. I currently have the add-a-leaf, but I'm about to switch it out for the OME HD pack this weekend. I also got the chevy performance high angle UCAs. Planning on installing them as well. I'll be running new rims (Raceline 17x8.5 - 18mm offset) with 275/70r17 Falken Wildpeaks. I'm hoping that setup will allow me to skip the fender trimming. Fingers crossed. I appreciate the work you're putting in to create these vids for us. I hope you keep em coming. Thanks Again
Michael, sounds like a solid choice for your build! If you don't plan to lift the front, I'd suggest not using the factory lift block when you install the OME HD pack. The GFC is a great light weight camper setup. Also, the 275's and that wheel combo stock height will be close. I'd say very minimal trimming would be needed after the UCA's and proper alignment. Good luck on the build and thanks for stopping by!
@@TSYT So, I changed out the OME leaf pack TWICE! I didn't realize the '+' was for the driver side and the 'o' was for the passenger side. I should have probably guessed that. Just installed the Chevy Performance High Angle UCAs with the 1-1/4" lift. I'll be installing the wheels with the 275s this weekend. Really hoping to avoid cutting those wheel wells. Fingers crossed! Again, thanks for leading the way on this. I'll tag your instagram page with a pic once it's completed.
@@MichaelWilsonator How does your truck ride with the OME HD leafs? I ordered the HD pack and i will probably be running an Extra ~500lbs at all times. and be over the 650 when fully loaded.
@@TheZdriven85 Rides like a dream. Highly recommended. As mentioned above, don't forget to put the leaf pack with the '+' on the driver's side. I'm probably the only person who would miss that ;-0
I’m looking to do the same thing to my ZR2! The GM Performance leveling kit in front, and these leaf springs in the back to maintain the factory rake. How did yours turn out?
Thanks for uploading this! Very informational and very much needed as I need to level the truck for 285/75 R17 tires in combination to trimming.. I need to maintain the factory rake as well 😬😬 3 Questions for you! (1) Do you see a difference in wheel travel/how much you can flex the rear with these new springs? is it more or less travel than the stock springs? (2) When looking up this product online, it claims to add 1” to the ride height. Do you get 2” in increased right height from keeping the factory U-bolts + that factory block? (3) Did you install the “medium load” or the “heavy load” springs?
Hey William, all great questions. I’ll try to answer as best I can. 1. I feel like the suspension travels more since the added weight isn’t taking up travel in the suspension. I can say for certain these do not limit the suspension travel or hinder any performance off road. 2. I recall leaving the 1” block in gives the 1” lift. But, depending on the weight you have in the back will vary your actual ride height. I’m the same, wanted to keep the factory rake. Even when I’m loaded for a trip I still have some rake. 3. I’m running the OK4wd overland suspension upgrade kit for the ZR2. I think it is a 650# rear leaf.
Nothing can replace how good a new leaf pack designed for the extra weight feels. The add a leaf will do great if that is all the budget allows. I started there.
@@TSYT I ended up doing the OME medium load leaf pack after much discussion with the ARB/OME techs. After I ran that for a very little while, I purchased the extra leaf to add into the leaf pack which made it the heavy load leaf pack. The OME leaf pack on my truck has been good. With my setup, I should have done the heavy load leaf pack as I originally wanted. It would have saved me some time, effort, and a little money.
@@garretlewis4103 Good to hear! Glad you are happy with it. I ended up adding the XL leaf to my current pack to support the weight of all the new stuff. Now I recommend everyone to go one heavier so you get the extra leaf in case you need it. We both have been there.
I have the AAL and carry about 350-400lbs all the time, I like the ride but still hit the hard second stage at times. I'm about to pull the trigger on the Deaver spring pac.
Edit to add I've upgraded to the Deaver "Overland" set. Much improved ride and overall feel of the truck, handles curves much better. If your budget allows go Deaver.
I agree after having these and recently upgrading the leaf to OME XL pack. Deavers are the way to go if budget allows! These are a great option as well.
Thanks! I ran the peak add a leaf. It’s a great option. I ran an add a leaf on my Tacoma also. Pretty basic where as a full leaf pack replacement is truly designed to function better with added weight or no weight.
Thanks! What you are seeing is the new bolt and nut I installed. If you look at the stock truck. The bolt head is on the gas tank side and the nut on the other side. If you take the nut off, you cannot pull the bolt out because the gas tank is in the way. So you cut the stock bolt head and pull the nut and remaining bolt out. When installing the new leaf springs you will slide the bolt in and nut goes on the side of the gas tank. Once you get under your truck you’ll see why I cut the bolt.
The rear block is good for 1”. If you remove it after installing the new leaf springs you will still get some lift depending on how much weight you have in the rear. If you keep the block in there and it’s too much lift, you can remove the block to lower the vehicle 1” inch in the rear. You will need to use the new u bolts that come with the kit if you do not use the factory rear block.
How do the OME springs ride compared to the factory springs? I have a hard folding cover on the bed and a tub of recovery gear in the bed. I don't want a stiff or harsh ride, but I'm not impressed with the factory springs.
I ran that same setup for a couple weeks between my topper and AluCab setup arriving. I was very impressed with how smooth the truck rode. Of course it’s more stiff but mostly what I had expected a normal truck to ride like. Oem springs being soft and not very supportive. Handles bumps and breaks in roads like bridges very well while giving you the ability to actually haul some weight without hitting the bump stops every bump in the road.
Looks like a bit too much load capacity. I run a rear lift as well, but yours looks like too much given that you have a load in your bed. Trick for removing the driver's side leaf spring front bolt (without cutting it) - takes about 5-10 minutes: • Remove the plastic tank cover (4 bolts) • use a jack on a piece of wood that spans the tank width at about the middle of the tank to hold the tank up. • Remove the tank straps completely (2 bolts) • Lower the tank down 2-3 inches and then push the jack and tank over to the right about 3 inches • Push the leaf spring bolt out of the bracket. • Return the tank to its place and bolt the straps and cover back into place.
Yea, that's what the truck came with. I agree, poor design. I'm running shock skids on them for now and plan to switch to the 589 relocation kit now that I have plenty of room with the 1.5" wheel spacers.
Thank you for the content. Very helpful while I was installing new Deaver leaf spring pack. However, I have to say the torque process for the U-bolts is just dumb. For example, how are you supposed to recheck the torque after a few hundred miles of driving when there isn't a stated nominal torque value? What are you supposed to do... loosen everything... got to 59 ft/lbs followed by 135 degrees again? That would completely defeat the purpose of just rechecking the initial torque.
Any ideas on how to reliably re-check U-bolt torque?
Thanks for watching and glad I could offer so info. I agree about the torque process. I’ve since added their XL leaf and recently removed it. Lots of changes since this was filmed. I’m at 110k miles and have had zero issues while using the factory method. My check after a few hundred miles is just making sure it’s still good and tight.
@@TSYT But what torque did you use for checking after few hundred miles. I can't find that value.
@@dxankor413659 ft lbs just to make sure they didn’t loosen up any.
Great content! Thank you! I have a Bison as well and I'll be adding a GFC camper in a couple of months. I currently have the add-a-leaf, but I'm about to switch it out for the OME HD pack this weekend. I also got the chevy performance high angle UCAs. Planning on installing them as well. I'll be running new rims (Raceline 17x8.5 - 18mm offset) with 275/70r17 Falken Wildpeaks. I'm hoping that setup will allow me to skip the fender trimming. Fingers crossed. I appreciate the work you're putting in to create these vids for us. I hope you keep em coming. Thanks Again
Michael, sounds like a solid choice for your build! If you don't plan to lift the front, I'd suggest not using the factory lift block when you install the OME HD pack. The GFC is a great light weight camper setup. Also, the 275's and that wheel combo stock height will be close. I'd say very minimal trimming would be needed after the UCA's and proper alignment. Good luck on the build and thanks for stopping by!
@@TSYT So, I changed out the OME leaf pack TWICE! I didn't realize the '+' was for the driver side and the 'o' was for the passenger side. I should have probably guessed that. Just installed the Chevy Performance High Angle UCAs with the 1-1/4" lift. I'll be installing the wheels with the 275s this weekend. Really hoping to avoid cutting those wheel wells. Fingers crossed! Again, thanks for leading the way on this. I'll tag your instagram page with a pic once it's completed.
@@MichaelWilsonator How does your truck ride with the OME HD leafs? I ordered the HD pack and i will probably be running an Extra ~500lbs at all times. and be over the 650 when fully loaded.
@@TheZdriven85 Rides like a dream. Highly recommended. As mentioned above, don't forget to put the leaf pack with the '+' on the driver's side. I'm probably the only person who would miss that ;-0
I’m looking to do the same thing to my ZR2! The GM Performance leveling kit in front, and these leaf springs in the back to maintain the factory rake. How did yours turn out?
Thanks for uploading this! Very informational and very much needed as I need to level the truck for 285/75 R17 tires in combination to trimming.. I need to maintain the factory rake as well 😬😬
3 Questions for you!
(1) Do you see a difference in wheel travel/how much you can flex the rear with these new springs? is it more or less travel than the stock springs?
(2) When looking up this product online, it claims to add 1” to the ride height. Do you get 2” in increased right height from keeping the factory U-bolts + that factory block?
(3) Did you install the “medium load” or the “heavy load” springs?
Hey William, all great questions. I’ll try to answer as best I can.
1. I feel like the suspension travels more since the added weight isn’t taking up travel in the suspension. I can say for certain these do not limit the suspension travel or hinder any performance off road.
2. I recall leaving the 1” block in gives the 1” lift. But, depending on the weight you have in the back will vary your actual ride height. I’m the same, wanted to keep the factory rake. Even when I’m loaded for a trip I still have some rake.
3. I’m running the OK4wd overland suspension upgrade kit for the ZR2. I think it is a 650# rear leaf.
Coming from a '21 ZR2 owner, You're flying the appropriate flag!!! O-H...
Thinking about an add a leaf vs. the Old Man Emu. Add a leaf definitely cheaper; however, as you said, the ride is worse. I have a 2016 Z71.
Nothing can replace how good a new leaf pack designed for the extra weight feels. The add a leaf will do great if that is all the budget allows. I started there.
@@TSYT I ended up doing the OME medium load leaf pack after much discussion with the ARB/OME techs. After I ran that for a very little while, I purchased the extra leaf to add into the leaf pack which made it the heavy load leaf pack. The OME leaf pack on my truck has been good. With my setup, I should have done the heavy load leaf pack as I originally wanted. It would have saved me some time, effort, and a little money.
@@garretlewis4103 Good to hear! Glad you are happy with it. I ended up adding the XL leaf to my current pack to support the weight of all the new stuff. Now I recommend everyone to go one heavier so you get the extra leaf in case you need it. We both have been there.
You look like Tom segura
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks!
I have the AAL and carry about 350-400lbs all the time, I like the ride but still hit the hard second stage at times. I'm about to pull the trigger on the Deaver spring pac.
Edit to add I've upgraded to the Deaver "Overland" set. Much improved ride and overall feel of the truck, handles curves much better. If your budget allows go Deaver.
I agree after having these and recently upgrading the leaf to OME XL pack. Deavers are the way to go if budget allows! These are a great option as well.
Good info, thanks for sharing. Which add a leaf did you try at first?
Thanks! I ran the peak add a leaf. It’s a great option. I ran an add a leaf on my Tacoma also. Pretty basic where as a full leaf pack replacement is truly designed to function better with added weight or no weight.
@@TSYT got rtt, fridge , some more weight should I add one 2020 gmc canyon sle 4x4
@@AmazonWebService98 sounds like this would be a great option for you!
Great video. Subscribed. Were you unable to fit a wrench in there? I assume that’s why you cut the bolt.
Thanks! What you are seeing is the new bolt and nut I installed. If you look at the stock truck. The bolt head is on the gas tank side and the nut on the other side. If you take the nut off, you cannot pull the bolt out because the gas tank is in the way. So you cut the stock bolt head and pull the nut and remaining bolt out. When installing the new leaf springs you will slide the bolt in and nut goes on the side of the gas tank. Once you get under your truck you’ll see why I cut the bolt.
I think the ome kit comes with a new bolt, it's sop to cut the oem bolt, beats removing the fuel tank.
@@madcratebuilder I talk about this in the video. Yes. Comes with a new bolt. I also provide the tip in the video how to cut it out. Yes, a pain.
How was the peak add a leaf with a load? Was it still really stiff or does the weight compensate the stiffness?
The weight helps but doesn’t compare to a new leaf pack.
If I removed the spacer you are saying that these leafs should just return to stock height, correct? And with spacer up to 1.5" over stock?
The rear block is good for 1”. If you remove it after installing the new leaf springs you will still get some lift depending on how much weight you have in the rear. If you keep the block in there and it’s too much lift, you can remove the block to lower the vehicle 1” inch in the rear. You will need to use the new u bolts that come with the kit if you do not use the factory rear block.
@@TSYT awesome, thanks for the reply man! Build is looking great!
How do the OME springs ride compared to the factory springs? I have a hard folding cover on the bed and a tub of recovery gear in the bed. I don't want a stiff or harsh ride, but I'm not impressed with the factory springs.
I ran that same setup for a couple weeks between my topper and AluCab setup arriving. I was very impressed with how smooth the truck rode. Of course it’s more stiff but mostly what I had expected a normal truck to ride like. Oem springs being soft and not very supportive. Handles bumps and breaks in roads like bridges very well while giving you the ability to actually haul some weight without hitting the bump stops every bump in the road.
Towing capacity increased?
I'd say nothing official since we cannot legally change the capacity that the truck is rated at. Helps with handling a heavier load though.
Looks like a bit too much load capacity. I run a rear lift as well, but yours looks like too much given that you have a load in your bed.
Trick for removing the driver's side leaf spring front bolt (without cutting it) - takes about 5-10 minutes:
• Remove the plastic tank cover (4 bolts)
• use a jack on a piece of wood that spans the tank width at about the middle of the tank to hold the tank up.
• Remove the tank straps completely (2 bolts)
• Lower the tank down 2-3 inches and then push the jack and tank over to the right about 3 inches
• Push the leaf spring bolt out of the bracket.
• Return the tank to its place and bolt the straps and cover back into place.
Good tips! I chopped the bolt since the new kit came with the new hardware.
New leaf springs, but you still have those stupid rear shock mounts. What a crappy design.
Yea, that's what the truck came with. I agree, poor design. I'm running shock skids on them for now and plan to switch to the 589 relocation kit now that I have plenty of room with the 1.5" wheel spacers.