Thanks for leaving the mistake in there. too many people hide mistakes in videos and I feel it gives mere mortals the impression that there are people out there that don't make mistakes.
Hi Michael, what if you have to remove the truss rod later, because of non functioning ? You hammered a burr on the end ? I have a Tokai SG with a completely jammed up truss rod to fix. I hope it's not like this, because then there's no other option than removing the fretboard i suppose ? Thanks.
Sorry if i missed, i’m making a neck with this kind single move truss-rod, but what is the reason to fit the truss rod in to a relief bow so the neck can go stand to that position? In my visualization if you put strings on it there become more tension on the relief part of the neck. If you tension the rod the relief becomes more, and if loose also becomes more. Or have i missed or forgotten a detail?
can you help me with my Dean through body neck guitar my plan was to remove the fretboard and replace the truss rod due to the fact the truss rod does not move anyway and the nut is also stripped it's almost like they glued the truss rod !!! removing the neck would do severe damage due to the fact that they globbed a. S load of epoxy for the neck and it will ruin the Finish that's my plan if you have a better one please give me a heads up and where do you get those trucks rods in aluminum cases???
Question about the narrow strip of wood that you glued into the truss rod slot, or channel (never heard it referred to as a, "trough," before, but having been to Wrigley Field it gave me a good chuckle, thank you!): did you refer to the narrow strip of wood that you glued in on top of the truss rod as a, "fillet," or a, "fill-it," as humor? I've been playing guitar and bass for a while, about 30 years, been working on them since replacing the stock pickups with a set of DiMarzios on day number two of owning my first guitar at 14 years old (replaced those two weeks later with a set of Duncans, which are still in that guitar, hey guitar which I still own, and play, all these years later, although I am planning on doing a few modifications on the guitar just for fun), and I've been building guitars and basses for about 25 years, and had never heard that part referred to as a fillet. At first I thought you were using the term jokingly, but then I wondered if, in the world of fancy Luthier's schools and apprenticeships and such, having learned everything I know about this beautiful craft by taking apart the instruments putting them back together, then building them from scratch using rudimentary tools and tooling in the beginning, working professionally as a carpenter, rough and finish, then a cabinet maker, a furniture maker, then custom woodworker and restoring 150 year old homes. Then, after a stint in biotech, I went into CNC and manual machining, tool making, prototyping, Manufacturing Process, and have now eventually worked my way from entry level CNC machine operator up to Manufacturing Process Engineering Department Manager and Production Department Manager (I work both positions, but they sure the hell don't pay me for both positions) of a decent size and fairly modern machine shop, and the term fillet has a very specific meaning in machining and in engineering design. So is this a luthier specific term I have missed, or just... ummm... creative English?
Hello Metalbass, maybe you could use some of the CNC expertise and makes some interesting bits and or jigs. Thank you for your message, I appreciate it. As for your question, I think it is just a good description of that piece, as it is a strip, narrow etc. Just seemed like the right term.... Good luck on your guitars and basses....
A plastic sleeve caused humidity retention and serious rusting on both ends of an early '60s Gibson Heritage truss rod I'm replacing because it was made in a completely dysfunctional way.
Hi Ed, I would not recommend caulking of any nature. Not sure of your guitar's circumstances, You want to allow the rod to move and the wood to stay firm, if you can shim it permanently allowing the steel to slip. good luck. Michael
Hi Mike.. I have an es335 clone and when i went to change the strings the nut was loose so i took it off to clean it up and re-glue the nut.. But underneath the nut you can see the trust rod.. Maybe the channel cut for the truss rod was cut to shallow and when they went to cut the nut channel it went into the truss rod channel exposing the truss rod.. The guitar has tuning issues.. Not sure if it related or not.. It may just need a new nut or tuners or maybe even a bridge cause it pings a little when tunning.. I can still send the guitar back.. What are your thoughts.. Thanks..
Hello Gunnslinger, the rod's primary function is to keep the neck "straight" or with a gentle arc, so I expect it is not related to the truss rod. Also exposed at the nut may not be all that bad, since it is under the nut, hard to tell without seeing the guitar... Michael
I love your work. How did the Gibson style rod work out after a few months, did it work well to straighten the neck? I see you just flattened the anchor end, would this not mean that the rod would be inclined to twist along with the nut? To me this type of rod is a lot less intrusive as it takes up a lot less room than the 2 piece rods.
The rod works great, I took it to my mentor to help with the action however as I didn't do the neck to body joint perfect... check this out: Mike McConniville here in Stratford
@@joestevens8753 when you level your finger board you want a bit of load on it. If there is load on it all ready then when you put the string tension on with your strings, you now have the ability to tune in (bend the neck) in both directions.
Hello. I adjusted the truss rod and the neck is flat. After 2 days I noticed an up-bow. I adjusted it again. After 1 or 2 days the same occurred. I repeated this process many times and it seems the truss rod does not maintain the neck flat. The marked the truss rod nut to see if it was moving, but no, it did not move. It is a single action truss rod. Have you experienced that? Thank you in advance.
Hello Rodolfo, what type/model of guitar is it. There is the balance between the string tension and the tighness and degree of arc. You want a tiny arc when strings are in your 440 or whatever you are tuning, and sometimes the neck will be "flat" and the strings pull it to the desired curve, subtle as it is or should be. The nut will not likely loosen, at least it never has or is the issue,... with out seeing it is a tad difficult to help, but let me know if the comment is of use or how you make out... best of luck, Michael
thanks for the sage advice, however, when you work with wood, and power tools in general; one has to be careful and cognizant. A sharp chisel can also cause great injury. Without the guard that you wish I was using; sure you have to watch yourself, not unlike most of what we do in life inside and outside of the shop..... like crossing the street, even at the stoplight.... Good luck yourself... Michael
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Thanks for leaving the mistake in there. too many people hide mistakes in videos and I feel it gives mere mortals the impression that there are people out there that don't make mistakes.
Good Content. Thanks for doing the vid
this was posted on the day I completed my first guitar, thanks for helping with the second!
Thanks for the comment and glad it was of some value, appreciate the feedback!
Really thanks man, helped a lot to understand how to make a truss rod.
The table saw idea to cut out the channel is elegant in it's simplicity.
Thank you for the frofitable video it help me a lot from the Philippines
Cool Michael, thanks for sharing :-)
Thanks for sharing, greetings from Colombia
Great video, I like that style. It says quality to me
I love truss rods.
Gracias por tus videos.
Thanks for that, brilliant!
PERFECT !!!!!!
Thanks Sir!
thank you very much
Hi Michael, what if you have to remove the truss rod later, because of non functioning ? You hammered a burr on the end ? I have a Tokai SG with a completely jammed up truss rod to fix. I hope it's not like this, because then there's no other option than removing the fretboard i suppose ? Thanks.
Sorry if i missed, i’m making a neck with this kind single move truss-rod, but what is the reason to fit the truss rod in to a relief bow so the neck can go stand to that position? In my visualization if you put strings on it there become more tension on the relief part of the neck. If you tension the rod the relief becomes more, and if loose also becomes more. Or have i missed or forgotten a detail?
can you help me with my Dean through body neck guitar my plan was to remove the fretboard and replace the truss rod due to the fact the truss rod does not move anyway and the nut is also stripped it's almost like they glued the truss rod !!! removing the neck would do severe damage due to the fact that they globbed a. S load of epoxy for the neck and it will ruin the Finish that's my plan if you have a better one please give me a heads up and where do you get those trucks rods in aluminum cases???
Question about the narrow strip of wood that you glued into the truss rod slot, or channel (never heard it referred to as a, "trough," before, but having been to Wrigley Field it gave me a good chuckle, thank you!): did you refer to the narrow strip of wood that you glued in on top of the truss rod as a, "fillet," or a, "fill-it," as humor?
I've been playing guitar and bass for a while, about 30 years, been working on them since replacing the stock pickups with a set of DiMarzios on day number two of owning my first guitar at 14 years old (replaced those two weeks later with a set of Duncans, which are still in that guitar, hey guitar which I still own, and play, all these years later, although I am planning on doing a few modifications on the guitar just for fun), and I've been building guitars and basses for about 25 years, and had never heard that part referred to as a fillet. At first I thought you were using the term jokingly, but then I wondered if, in the world of fancy Luthier's schools and apprenticeships and such, having learned everything I know about this beautiful craft by taking apart the instruments putting them back together, then building them from scratch using rudimentary tools and tooling in the beginning, working professionally as a carpenter, rough and finish, then a cabinet maker, a furniture maker, then custom woodworker and restoring 150 year old homes. Then, after a stint in biotech, I went into CNC and manual machining, tool making, prototyping, Manufacturing Process, and have now eventually worked my way from entry level CNC machine operator up to Manufacturing Process Engineering Department Manager and Production Department Manager (I work both positions, but they sure the hell don't pay me for both positions) of a decent size and fairly modern machine shop, and the term fillet has a very specific meaning in machining and in engineering design. So is this a luthier specific term I have missed, or just... ummm... creative English?
Hello Metalbass, maybe you could use some of the CNC expertise and makes some interesting bits and or jigs. Thank you for your message, I appreciate it. As for your question, I think it is just a good description of that piece, as it is a strip, narrow etc. Just seemed like the right term.... Good luck on your guitars and basses....
you could use a plastic tube sleeve around your rod.
A plastic sleeve caused humidity retention and serious rusting on both ends of an early '60s Gibson Heritage truss rod I'm replacing because it was made in a completely dysfunctional way.
Tell it to Gibson melissa🖕
Hi ,thank you for the great video ,what type of caulking would you recommend if you have a slightly loose fitting truss rod ?Thank you
Hi Ed, I would not recommend caulking of any nature. Not sure of your guitar's circumstances, You want to allow the rod to move and the wood to stay firm, if you can shim it permanently allowing the steel to slip. good luck. Michael
thank you
I once built a fan fret baritone with a torrified top in 31 minutes. I can play you the sped up video to prove it.
Hi Mike..
I have an es335 clone and when i went to change the strings the nut was loose so i took it off to clean it up and re-glue the nut..
But underneath the nut you can see the trust rod..
Maybe the channel cut for the truss rod was cut to shallow and when they went to cut the nut channel it went into the truss rod channel exposing the truss rod..
The guitar has tuning issues..
Not sure if it related or not..
It may just need a new nut or tuners or maybe even a bridge cause it pings a little when tunning..
I can still send the guitar back.. What are your thoughts..
Thanks..
Hello Gunnslinger, the rod's primary function is to keep the neck "straight" or with a gentle arc, so I expect it is not related to the truss rod. Also exposed at the nut may not be all that bad, since it is under the nut, hard to tell without seeing the guitar... Michael
Thanks...
I think at this point it is going to haunt me..
Thank you for your reply and for your videos..
I love your work. How did the Gibson style rod work out after a few months, did it work well to straighten the neck? I see you just flattened the anchor end, would this not mean that the rod would be inclined to twist along with the nut? To me this type of rod is a lot less intrusive as it takes up a lot less room than the 2 piece rods.
th-cam.com/video/xGd9GvAs0P8/w-d-xo.html
The rod works great, I took it to my mentor to help with the action however as I didn't do the neck to body joint perfect... check this out: Mike McConniville here in Stratford
@@majorgunn that is a very pretty guitar, the Rosewood looks and sounds great.
@@majorgunn what did he mean when he said there wasn't enough "load" on the truss rod, the curvature?
@@joestevens8753 when you level your finger board you want a bit of load on it. If there is load on it all ready then when you put the string tension on with your strings, you now have the ability to tune in (bend the neck) in both directions.
Hello. I adjusted the truss rod and the neck is flat. After 2 days I noticed an up-bow. I adjusted it again. After 1 or 2 days the same occurred. I repeated this process many times and it seems the truss rod does not maintain the neck flat. The marked the truss rod nut to see if it was moving, but no, it did not move. It is a single action truss rod. Have you experienced that? Thank you in advance.
Hello Rodolfo, what type/model of guitar is it.
There is the balance between the string tension and the tighness and degree of arc. You want a tiny arc when strings are in your 440 or whatever you are tuning, and sometimes the neck will be "flat" and the strings pull it to the desired curve, subtle as it is or should be. The nut will not likely loosen, at least it never has or is the issue,... with out seeing it is a tad difficult to help, but let me know if the comment is of use or how you make out... best of luck, Michael
Don't try this at home. This is exactly how you do not use a circular saw. I'm surprised he still has all his fingers.
thanks for the sage advice, however, when you work with wood, and power tools in general; one has to be careful and cognizant. A sharp chisel can also cause great injury. Without the guard that you wish I was using; sure you have to watch yourself, not unlike most of what we do in life inside and outside of the shop..... like crossing the street, even at the stoplight.... Good luck yourself... Michael
The difference is, artist craftsmen keep their fingers throughout their lives. Cabinet makers I have known, not so much.