I haven't tried ALL truss rods, but I've tried a few and Bitterroot is all I need. The price is right, the folks are cool, and the rods do the job perfectly.
Bitterroot rods are awesome! That's all I use nowadays. The first couple guitars I built I made my own with bent rod, square nut brazed onto one end, wedges, etc. What a pain in the ass.
Love the content Matt ... I think I am living vicariously through these videos ... I'm a master craftsman, with a storage locker full of woodworking tools, working a facility management job
Like many, many other things, Leo got it right the first time with the heel adjust imho. It looks better and no wood is removed from the weakest part of the neck. As an added bonus it is much less likely someone that doesn’t know what they are doing will mess with it. Those look like the two way rods with the flat bar on top? That type is my favorite. They are more compact so less wood is removed compared to other 2 way rods like the Stew Mac Hot Rod. I used to get them from LMII. Yours are shrink wrapped too, much better.
If you have to adjust your neck multiple times a year due to weather changes the headstock adjust is pretty nice. We are pretty lucky here in Colorado, good necks are pretty much adjust it once and be done kind of proposition
Thanks Kev, we are always trying to improve and build on what we have learned. When we have passed along everything we know to everyone who wants to know it... then we will be at the top of our game
Absolutely instructable. Just one question: which is the process to make the channeling into a Musicman spokewheel system? Becouse these guitars haven't a hole in the top of the neck (like fender, gibson, etc etc). Well done!
Hi, thanks for detailed explonation. I have problem about installing truss rod prefectly. I have the same truss rod in the video. Is there any possibility to locate it smoothely without cutting extra cavity?
My first guitar build I did the truss rod channel with a chisel, it works just fine but took over 6 hours to get it at the correct depth and width. I don't get why smaller flush router bits aren't more widely available, the only one I can find small enough to do truss rods is from stewmac for $35. I'm gonna end up getting it though because I think following a template would be better than using a straight bit and having to build a jig.
Awesome as always..very informative..what do you feel about the warmoth side heel access adjustment on the modern necks?..maybe potential for failure over time as the mechanical action to turn that rod from the side adds more complication
I have a few of those BJ and they work great. They don't really move the truss rod very much so in some ways they are ineffectual. However, within the design limitations they work very well. I should do a video on what they actually do to the rod... it is really low tech
Hey. Good video for someone that already has some knowledge of luthiery and mechanics. You might add how these truss rods work over the other types. Why are they superior to the spoke end types requiring the curved slot? I have been getting these from StewMac and yes, I love them too
Nice insight as to how you go about it. If any of us were brave enough to attempt it it would probably be chisels, a dremel or possibly a router. Nice post 😎🎙🎸✅
I like those double truss rods, so much easier to install than making a traditional curved channel. Some things are better on modern guitars than the way they did it in the 50's. Work smarter, not harder.
You know ... Bitterroot sells wheel style truss rods. Put a notch at the heel or a little window. That's what I'm doing these days. Then a player only needs 'a little pokey thing' to adjust rather than hunt around for the right sized hex wrench every time. They also don't need to remove the pickguard to access a hex heel style.
Hi there from Australia I have a question I have a Washburn acoustic guitar and l have taken the truss rod out and it was a Martin style truss rod single action Now I would like to put a two way in and it looks a bit like yours Now the chanel is a bit big Now can l fill up the chanel with wood filler or wood putty and let it dry and the rout it out do you think that would be a good idea Thanks David 👍
Sir can I ask about the depth of the truss rod slot? I've seen so many video toturials on how to install truss rod, Some of the video that i saw says that the middle of the truss rod slot must be a little bit deeper to form a slight scalloped in the slot, And in this video of yours i can see that the slot are all the same depth. I'm a little bit confused here sir. I'm planning to make my first guitar neck, Hope you can help me, thanks 😊
You bet, the truss rod will dictate the depth of the slot and the style of truss rod will dictate the need (should one exist) for a curved slot. We use a 2 way rod, the slot is right at 3/8, curving the slot would do nothing for this style truss rod. If you are using a single acting rod, like the 3/16 piece with a fixed end on one side and 10-32 threads on the other... you will need to use a curved slot and back fill the channel. Some people will say that an angled channel is enough... In my experience, it isn't.
Do you put anything in the truss rod cavity? I heard silicone so the the rod doesn’t rattle as your playing. What is your method? Thanks Matt. Love the content
I have a guitar with a one piece neck and I was wondering how the truss rod was installed? There is no glued on fretboard (its one piece) and there is no routed channel on the back of the neck like with fenders. Could the full length of the neck have been reamed and a truss rod inserted? The guitar is a James Tyler Studio Elite. Awesome videos too.
James Tyler guitars. I've had a really close look at the neck and, unless he is an absolute genius at hiding joints, its definitely one piece of wood with no flaws in it at all.
@@SimonDuffy2 Hey, I was checking out a maple fretboard Tyler recently and know exactly what you are talking about. It looks like one piece of wood but there is no channel/skunk stripe on the back either. After staring at it for a long time, there is a very faint line between the fretboard and neck. I think they must bandsaw off the fretboard from the same piece of maple as the rest of the neck, then glue it back in place once the truss rod is installed. This makes it basically invisible!
@@martymcfly002 Hi. Yes. You are absolutely right. I looked and looked for quite a while and it must be that the engineering tolerances on it are so tight that I couldn't even see the join between neck and fretboard. It was only when I realised there is a tiny lip at the body of the fretboard thar I figured it out. Something to aspire to. Amazing craftsmanship. I love my Tyler.
I'm doing my first ever build and I want to use a 2way truss rod with headstock access like you have but if you don't put the walnut plug in what keeps the rod in place in the slot...in this video it looks like the rod will slide from heel to head. Sorry if this has been covered. On the plus side I'm old enough to know who Dolly Parton is
@@TexasToastGuitars In the video it looks like the 1/4" hole between the two compartments would allow the rod to slide...I'm guessing now that the 1/4" is smaller than the diameter of the adjustment nut?
How do you do the swoopy headstock thing? Trying to figure out a good way to do it.. is it a 1” or 2” radius? I know the headstock should be around 14 mil to fit tuners. Just don’t know the best method for getting that curve..
Yeah, all the double acting rods will rattle... even the PRS one piece rod. You have to load the rod a little bit (you know just take the slack out) and that will go away.
@TexasToastGuitars That seems like a design flaw that could be overcome. I've really been thinking about this. Hear me out and tell me if I'm nuts: The source of truss rod rattle is twofold in two-way rods, if the slot is exactly the right width, meaning not a drop in fit, but a light interference fit on the square sections. The flat bar and the threaded bar have enough slack unloaded to contact each other if you give the neck a whap. The threaded bar can also make intermittent contact with the bottom of the slot under similar action. Both can be happening simultaneously as well. I'm now of the opinion that the coated rod with the threaded ends needs support from below in the form of less channel depth (roughly .015" less along its length) such that the rod is meaningfully engaged against that shallower section of the channel. The square section are always slightly deeper since the thread housings have to have _some_ material to encase the ID threads. At the same time, the round bar should also be engaged against the underside of the flat bar, but with an intermediary, like a cork gasket, bonded to the underside of the flat bar. Perhaps it's just the engineer in me that thinks nothing in a mechanical assembly should be loose or move unless it's at the user's need and use. Thanks! PS: I k ow the rod can simply be engaged a small bit, but isn't that like saying my car door stays closed as long I keep pulling on it while I drive?😅
Great reference to Confederate Railroad with cocktail waitress comment. Building fixtures and jigs makes that Pin Router so versatile. I have seen videos of fixtures to do necks. You have great method with dead head sander but have you tried using the beloved pin router?
I have seen those but I'd bet the deadhead sander is faster and more versatile. We used to use the copy carver but it sucks compared to the deadhead sander too. We can do all kinds of cool stuff with it. I don't see any changes coming anytime soon for us
@@TexasToastGuitars Deadhead looks to be super efficient, especially with grit you use. More curious what you did before Deadhead. What I have seen using pin router for necks requires a lot of hand work.
I really like guitar building videos and I’ve MUCH from TT. However one recurrent issue with their “how we do it” instructions is that often they talk about utilizing their pin router. Most of us don’t have one. I’ve looked into it but they are hard to come by, expensive, and occupy a lot of space. Maybe one day…
Dear Matt, i have a +style single action truss rod. And i can`t understand, how to make a correct slot for it. Especially in a heel place. Now i guess, it was a mistake - buying a single action truss rod. But +style was too attractive)
You got to come up with your own cool way of doing truss rods, they are all a little different. Single acting rods are good too... Hell, they all work if you do them right. You can do it my friend
Hello. I adjusted the truss rod and the neck is flat. After 2 days I noticed an up-bow. I adjusted it again. After 1 or 2 days the same occurred. I repeated this process many times and it seems the truss rod does not maintain the neck flat. The marked the truss rod nut to see if it was moving, but no, it did not move. It is a single action truss rod. Have you experienced that? Thank you in advance.
I don't know why Matt doesn't reply to your question. Because if he does, that will be very informative stuff. Btw, I love technical questions like yours.
The deep slot damages the image of a Fender style neck, why didn't you mount the truss rod upside down? Just remember to unscrew to pull using the double action, the reverse one. I've seen around that many do it, so the hole for the key is at the same height as the fender holes, therefore much less invasive and better aesthetic. Clearly under freetboard in theory you would find the round part pushed but taking the flat plate from the opposite side and welding it on the rod that rests under the fretboard..... do you agree with this reasoning? can it work? In my opinion, yes
With how you have the access, you COULD put a plug in there to fill the hole when you don't need to adjust the neck, if only to clean it up. It's pretty obvious that you're not stoked with this setup 100%. Just my 2¢
No, I like it just fine... the truth is I don't, personally, like Fender style necks. They work great and all but I, myself, really like angled headstocks
I think that is a reference to a line in the Confederate Railroad song "Trashy Women." Don't ask me how I know. :) th-cam.com/video/vfXs0m32A8E/w-d-xo.html
@@TexasToastGuitars yeah you got it love them. I personally like them especially if the wheel is is in the last feet. Btw I'm going to build my first neck in a few days and I'm going to make a one piece old school neck. How thick does the wood need to be on with sides of the truss rod usually?
Jesus broke the power of hell on the cross and opened the only way to meet God. If you believe in Jesus, you will become a child of God and enjoy all the blessings of heaven. The Holy Spirit will always be with you. Believe in Jesus. He is the light of life and God the Creator.
I haven't tried ALL truss rods, but I've tried a few and Bitterroot is all I need. The price is right, the folks are cool, and the rods do the job perfectly.
You got that right brotherman
Bitterroot rods are awesome! That's all I use nowadays. The first couple guitars I built I made my own with bent rod, square nut brazed onto one end, wedges, etc. What a pain in the ass.
Nice method! I switched over to spoke wheel truss rods for ease of installation and adjustment, how do you guys like those things?
Love the content Matt ... I think I am living vicariously through these videos ... I'm a master craftsman, with a storage locker full of woodworking tools, working a facility management job
I spent 18 years knowing exactly what you mean Barry
It's about time you started talking about truss rods.
I could go on for days and y'all would hate it
Like many, many other things, Leo got it right the first time with the heel adjust imho. It looks better and no wood is removed from the weakest part of the neck. As an added bonus it is much less likely someone that doesn’t know what they are doing will mess with it. Those look like the two way rods with the flat bar on top? That type is my favorite. They are more compact so less wood is removed compared to other 2 way rods like the Stew Mac Hot Rod. I used to get them from LMII. Yours are shrink wrapped too, much better.
Yeah - except the ones you have to pull the neck to adjust - he didn't get those so right...
Don Vanco: I think he did get it right, that was my point.
If you have to adjust your neck multiple times a year due to weather changes the headstock adjust is pretty nice. We are pretty lucky here in Colorado, good necks are pretty much adjust it once and be done kind of proposition
Bless you, Texas Toast Guitars! You solved a huge problem for me!
In this build it appears that the truss rod will be able to move forward. Will this Matter?
Great Videos!
B
You realy are top of your game brother cheers
Thanks Kev, we are always trying to improve and build on what we have learned. When we have passed along everything we know to everyone who wants to know it... then we will be at the top of our game
Absolutely instructable. Just one question: which is the process to make the channeling into a Musicman spokewheel system? Becouse these guitars haven't a hole in the top of the neck (like fender, gibson, etc etc). Well done!
There is a company called Grainger that will sell you a spoke wheel for that rod
Nice video here's my tumb up,I saw one hiw to make your own.truss rod and are very simple can yoy make one??
Hi, thanks for detailed explonation. I have problem about installing truss rod prefectly. I have the same truss rod in the video. Is there any possibility to locate it smoothely without cutting extra cavity?
My first guitar build I did the truss rod channel with a chisel, it works just fine but took over 6 hours to get it at the correct depth and width. I don't get why smaller flush router bits aren't more widely available, the only one I can find small enough to do truss rods is from stewmac for $35. I'm gonna end up getting it though because I think following a template would be better than using a straight bit and having to build a jig.
Beautiful new pin router...I'm coveting! What did you do with the old one? Maybe I'd be closer to being able to afford it versus new
We use both pin routers, we have one set up for necks and one for bodies
Here’s a truss rod that looks to be a brilliant solution to many difficulties. Should we avoid using ball end hex keys?
Thanks, Matt. Very informative.
Thanks man, glad you enjoyed it
Exactly what I needed to know, thank you
Awesome as always..very informative..what do you feel about the warmoth side heel access adjustment on the modern necks?..maybe potential for failure over time as the mechanical action to turn that rod from the side adds more complication
I have a few of those BJ and they work great. They don't really move the truss rod very much so in some ways they are ineffectual.
However, within the design limitations they work very well. I should do a video on what they actually do to the rod... it is really low tech
Hey. Good video for someone that already has some knowledge of luthiery and mechanics. You might add how these truss rods work over the other types.
Why are they superior to the spoke end types requiring the curved slot?
I have been getting these from StewMac and yes, I love them too
I have a 45 minute truss rod lecture that I give to all the classes.
Can you make guitar neck with purple Heart wood?
Nice insight as to how you go about it. If any of us were brave enough to attempt it it would probably be chisels, a dremel or possibly a router.
Nice post 😎🎙🎸✅
You can certainly do it that a way
What do you think about the spokewheel at the heel end?
I like those double truss rods, so much easier to install than making a traditional curved channel. Some things are better on modern guitars than the way they did it in the 50's. Work smarter, not harder.
You got that right Peter
You know ... Bitterroot sells wheel style truss rods. Put a notch at the heel or a little window. That's what I'm doing these days. Then a player only needs 'a little pokey thing' to adjust rather than hunt around for the right sized hex wrench every time. They also don't need to remove the pickguard to access a hex heel style.
Bitterroot doesn't sell a wheel adjust truss rod
Your videos are so great!
Hi there from Australia
I have a question
I have a Washburn acoustic guitar and l have taken the truss rod out and it was a Martin style truss rod single action
Now I would like to put a two way in and it looks a bit like yours
Now the chanel is a bit big
Now can l fill up the chanel with wood filler or wood putty and let it dry and the rout it out do you think that would be a good idea
Thanks David 👍
What type of bit did you use? Up cut, down cut, combination?
We use all types of bits and adjust as needed.
i use the lmii truss rods. These blue ones are good but i find them quite heavy
You got to live how you want to live
Sir can I ask about the depth of the truss rod slot? I've seen so many video toturials on how to install truss rod, Some of the video that i saw says that the middle of the truss rod slot must be a little bit deeper to form a slight scalloped in the slot, And in this video of yours i can see that the slot are all the same depth. I'm a little bit confused here sir. I'm planning to make my first guitar neck, Hope you can help me, thanks 😊
You bet, the truss rod will dictate the depth of the slot and the style of truss rod will dictate the need (should one exist) for a curved slot.
We use a 2 way rod, the slot is right at 3/8, curving the slot would do nothing for this style truss rod.
If you are using a single acting rod, like the 3/16 piece with a fixed end on one side and 10-32 threads on the other... you will need to use a curved slot and back fill the channel. Some people will say that an angled channel is enough... In my experience, it isn't.
Thanks for the tips sir!
Do you put anything in the truss rod cavity? I heard silicone so the the rod doesn’t rattle as your playing. What is your method? Thanks Matt. Love the content
You have to put some load on the rod... we don't; smoosh any caulk into the cavity
What does it mean by loading the truss rod?🥴
Man you make some awesome content! Thank you!
Thanks for watching brotherman
Hi there, nice video, do the botom of the truss rod chanel is flat or rounded ? Thanks.
Flat
Aww mannn. I know how to do this install. I wanted the skunk stripe version.
Sorry my brother but we don't do that kind of neck here
I have a guitar with a one piece neck and I was wondering how the truss rod was installed? There is no glued on fretboard (its one piece) and there is no routed channel on the back of the neck like with fenders. Could the full length of the neck have been reamed and a truss rod inserted? The guitar is a James Tyler Studio Elite. Awesome videos too.
You got me man... who made it?
James Tyler guitars. I've had a really close look at the neck and, unless he is an absolute genius at hiding joints, its definitely one piece of wood with no flaws in it at all.
@@SimonDuffy2 Hey, I was checking out a maple fretboard Tyler recently and know exactly what you are talking about. It looks like one piece of wood but there is no channel/skunk stripe on the back either. After staring at it for a long time, there is a very faint line between the fretboard and neck. I think they must bandsaw off the fretboard from the same piece of maple as the rest of the neck, then glue it back in place once the truss rod is installed. This makes it basically invisible!
@@martymcfly002 Hi. Yes. You are absolutely right. I looked and looked for quite a while and it must be that the engineering tolerances on it are so tight that I couldn't even see the join between neck and fretboard. It was only when I realised there is a tiny lip at the body of the fretboard thar I figured it out. Something to aspire to. Amazing craftsmanship. I love my Tyler.
@@SimonDuffy2 I agree that detail really impressed me as well - good to hear you like yours, I'll be saving for a while yet lol
I thought you said, to cut a curved Truss Rod Channel and it appeared you Routered a Straight channel??? Please explain that Matt?? Thanks.
A single action rod or traditional rod if you will needs to be in a curved slot
A modern rod does not
Thanks Matt, love your vids
Glad to hear you are enjoying them my friend
I'm doing my first ever build and I want to use a 2way truss rod with headstock access like you have but if you don't put the walnut plug in what keeps the rod in place in the slot...in this video it looks like the rod will slide from heel to head. Sorry if this has been covered. On the plus side I'm old enough to know who Dolly Parton is
Hi Mike,
It is part of our design to keep the rod in place, the access cavity is separate from the truss rod slot
@@TexasToastGuitars In the video it looks like the 1/4" hole between the two compartments would allow the rod to slide...I'm guessing now that the 1/4" is smaller than the diameter of the adjustment nut?
Hey Matt, just curious on theae truss rods. Do you have to use a round bottom bit for the channel on these rods?
how did he do the first neck? it looks like its drilled in?
Really cool, Matt. Thanx.
Thanks brotherman
The secret of this craft stay secret. The more they talk, the less we learn.
How do you do the swoopy headstock thing? Trying to figure out a good way to do it.. is it a 1” or 2” radius? I know the headstock should be around 14 mil to fit tuners. Just don’t know the best method for getting that curve..
We have a tool that is perfect for it. I'm pretty sure we have done videos on it before. Look up Old Man Machine I think that is what we called it
I like this method. Thanks for sharing! I just put a spoke end truss rod in a neck and it rattles! Dah!
Yeah, all the double acting rods will rattle... even the PRS one piece rod. You have to load the rod a little bit (you know just take the slack out) and that will go away.
@@TexasToastGuitars I like three small dabs of silicone in the channel ,stops rattle.
@@bjango53 you and the guys at StewMac
@TexasToastGuitars That seems like a design flaw that could be overcome.
I've really been thinking about this. Hear me out and tell me if I'm nuts:
The source of truss rod rattle is twofold in two-way rods, if the slot is exactly the right width, meaning not a drop in fit, but a light interference fit on the square sections.
The flat bar and the threaded bar have enough slack unloaded to contact each other if you give the neck a whap. The threaded bar can also make intermittent contact with the bottom of the slot under similar action. Both can be happening simultaneously as well.
I'm now of the opinion that the coated rod with the threaded ends needs support from below in the form of less channel depth (roughly .015" less along its length) such that the rod is meaningfully engaged against that shallower section of the channel.
The square section are always slightly deeper since the thread housings have to have _some_ material to encase the ID threads.
At the same time, the round bar should also be engaged against the underside of the flat bar, but with an intermediary, like a cork gasket, bonded to the underside of the flat bar.
Perhaps it's just the engineer in me that thinks nothing in a mechanical assembly should be loose or move unless it's at the user's need and use.
Thanks!
PS: I k ow the rod can simply be engaged a small bit, but isn't that like saying my car door stays closed as long I keep pulling on it while I drive?😅
Dude, what size truss rod would I need for a 24 inch scale neck, mustang style
I'm not sure Clare, but go to Bitterroot and see what they have
Great reference to Confederate Railroad with cocktail waitress comment. Building fixtures and jigs makes that Pin Router so versatile. I have seen videos of fixtures to do necks. You have great method with dead head sander but have you tried using the beloved pin router?
I have seen those but I'd bet the deadhead sander is faster and more versatile. We used to use the copy carver but it sucks compared to the deadhead sander too. We can do all kinds of cool stuff with it. I don't see any changes coming anytime soon for us
@@TexasToastGuitars Deadhead looks to be super efficient, especially with grit you use. More curious what you did before Deadhead. What I have seen using pin router for necks requires a lot of hand work.
I really like guitar building videos and I’ve MUCH from TT. However one recurrent issue with their “how we do it” instructions is that often they talk about utilizing their pin router. Most of us don’t have one. I’ve looked into it but they are hard to come by, expensive, and occupy a lot of space. Maybe one day…
I know this comment is old but, you can get a similar outcome with a good template and a trim router with guide bushings.
Dear Matt, i have a +style single action truss rod. And i can`t understand, how to make a correct slot for it. Especially in a heel place. Now i guess, it was a mistake - buying a single action truss rod. But +style was too attractive)
You got to come up with your own cool way of doing truss rods, they are all a little different. Single acting rods are good too... Hell, they all work if you do them right. You can do it my friend
Hello. I adjusted the truss rod and the neck is flat. After 2 days I noticed an up-bow. I adjusted it again. After 1 or 2 days the same occurred. I repeated this process many times and it seems the truss rod does not maintain the neck flat. The marked the truss rod nut to see if it was moving, but no, it did not move. It is a single action truss rod. Have you experienced that? Thank you in advance.
I don't know why Matt doesn't reply to your question. Because if he does, that will be very informative stuff. Btw, I love technical questions like yours.
If I have a dual action rod then do I need to do a curved channel?
You do not need to use a curved channel for a modern style truss rod.
Why do some people add the gap where the nut is located and some go straight through?
I do it like that because I like the look
What length truss rods do you use?
Depends on the necks but right at 17.25
How do ya adjust your heel access Trods
Same way you do with a headstock adjust... you just have to take it out of the guitar
So you have to take the neck off?
The deep slot damages the image of a Fender style neck, why didn't you mount the truss rod upside down?
Just remember to unscrew to pull using the double action, the reverse one.
I've seen around that many do it, so the hole for the key is at the same height as the fender holes, therefore much less invasive and better aesthetic. Clearly under freetboard in theory you would find the round part pushed but taking the flat plate from the opposite side and welding it on the rod that rests under the fretboard..... do you agree with this reasoning? can it work? In my opinion, yes
Can this truss rod be installed in a fender neck with skunk stripe ?
Yes
Hey what happened to your Beloved Pin Router????
Nothing
Spoke wheels rule. Might not be classic looking but it keeps the meat at the headstock but easily adjustable.
Thanks a lot !!!!!
No worries!
@@TexasToastGuitars Thanks !
Hey Jerry Jeff references....cool man!
We love Jerry Jeff Walker, Sargent Bishop used to hang out with him
What great fun!
Thanks for watching my friend
With how you have the access, you COULD put a plug in there to fill the hole when you don't need to adjust the neck, if only to clean it up. It's pretty obvious that you're not stoked with this setup 100%.
Just my 2¢
No, I like it just fine... the truth is I don't, personally, like Fender style necks. They work great and all but I, myself, really like angled headstocks
And just like that... I have another cool build project for my new pin router. Why didn't you tell us how awesome these things are?!?!?!
I was trying to keep it a secret
One more video in that shirt and it's going to need its own nickname......
true
You should see the jeans I wear all week
@@TexasToastGuitars I'd think maybe I'd pay not to.....
A cocktail waitress in a Dolly parton wig?!?! I'm just going to have to get over to Colorado one of these days.
I think that is a reference to a line in the Confederate Railroad song "Trashy Women." Don't ask me how I know. :)
th-cam.com/video/vfXs0m32A8E/w-d-xo.html
You got that right brotherman
They say opposites attract but I disagree... I need a woman just a tacky as me
You say cocktail waitress in a Dolly Parton wig like it’s a bad thing.
I certainly do NOT sir
3:16 😂
I had to go watch that HAHAHA
why not use a truss rod with a wheel at the end than you still have one at the heel with you can still adjust it.
I don't like wheel truss rods.
@@TexasToastGuitars yeah you got it love them. I personally like them especially if the wheel is is in the last feet. Btw I'm going to build my first neck in a few days and I'm going to make a one piece old school neck. How thick does the wood need to be on with sides of the truss rod usually?
Why dont you just rout it all thw way without leaving a gap and than routing a small cavity for the allen key
Primarily because it's a different size - but also it looks nicer than just blasting a ditch in the entire neck.
We like doing it this way
@@TexasToastGuitars Well that 's just crazy talk.
Don't be dissing cocktail waitresses! Bad karma. They make the world go around or at least look like it's spinning.
Jesus broke the power of hell on the cross and opened the only way to meet God. If you believe in Jesus, you will become a child of God and enjoy all the blessings of heaven. The Holy Spirit will always be with you. Believe in Jesus. He is the light of life and God the Creator.