20:19, one nozzle, the turbine is running at almost the right speed, the water in the transparent cover is not twisting. As he turned on the second nozzle, the turbine increased in speed. Overall performance will increase, but efficiency will fall sharply. The water jet must not run freely behind the wheel. The spoons must get the speed of the water to zero, then you take the most energy from the water.
From what i hear you have a air flowing with water, if you fix this fromplem water flow should increase. How to fix this? Check air intake it should be submerged fully and flow of water should not be foamy (with bubbles). I`m happy you are still working on hydro power projects GL ;)
18:00 U could use the water pump pliers laying at your right side. They are made for those things, tighten the grip when turning the tube in one direction and in the other it looses grip. 😉 When you don't want scratches on the tube or fitting, put some rubber under the pliers' teeth. I wish I lived on a hillside like you, I would almost copy your astonishing work, well done! But i'm living on flat lands in northern Germany, so there's no way to do so... 😒
Connect a generator to a stationary bicycle and have your wife ride it to supplement power when needed. LOL ! ! Great video, I love reading the comments for trouble shooting purposes. I'm not convinced of your manifold setup though. Cheers from Ottawa Canada
That inverter was beeping because of voltage drop. It would run that heat gun fine at proper voltage. Sure wish I had property that I could install hydro like yours. Neat project.
24:20 when you say that you've got bubbles in your turbine and operating under pressure, the culprit would easily be that MASSIVE amount of air that you have just sitting in your tube... its constricting the flow for your primary nozzle ALOT... get rid of that air and you'd more than likely be back up to where you were wanting to be... air at the top of a hose for an application that is heavily dependent on pressure, really needs a way for you to vent all that air out, which I believe you do have, but not correctly set up... looks more like you're using it to vent water pressure so you can work on the pipes and such.. but you really need a valve 'upwards' that lets you vent the air... air kills applications like this...
Losses in an electrical circuit are proportional to the current. So it's important to get the voltage as high as possible for transmission to minimise the current. If you can rectify the AC near the turbine and transmit DC using as thick wire as you can this will reduce losses as well. Also if you are generating 500W for 24hrs you are already producing 12KwHours of power. An average house on the grid uses 20 kWh so you are well in the way. I have a 350w system here in Tasmania that produces more than enough power as I use 3 to 5 kWh per day in my off-grid setup. Together with solar and a generator I run some heat loads such as a microwave, sandwich maker and tools etc as well as a washing machine and clothes dryer (only on generator). I have a 48V battery system and I transmit power from my hydro turbine over 120metres at 150V DC to a Max PowerPoint tracker than converts high V low current to 48..57V to charge the battery. My inverter only barely knows anything about this as it measures V and A Also have about 1800W solar that also independently charges the battery via another MPPT over approx 80m of heavy duty cable at approx 80V.
i think if you flipped that t you used to mesure flow rate and fitted a bleed valve you could bleed out the pocket of air you get when the pipe fills or even the pressure guage one
I work in a machine shop...if you wanted some nozzles machined I could do that....just run the calculations for the size hole you need and we can work it out.
Would it be worth getting a check valve with an adjustable cracking pressure? It might be a good way to prevent the system running dry, and auto start the system up when the streams flow increases back up again after a dry spell.
Now it just needs an in-line trap for any debris and a solenoid operated regulator valve to that references the generated voltage to throttle it. Also there may be diminishing returns with additional nozzles because of the drop in manifold pressure with less resistance to flow within the system. The math for hydraulic systems is fairly parallel to that of electronic circuits when it comes to power, current, and resistance.
Realistically, what all could you run off that thing, like could you run a 1500w space heater, a refrigerator, 2 refrigerators? etc. Put it into perspective.
Standard Battery voltage across the board as a reference to the industry is 12.45. Anything lower is considered a bad battery. In reference to that. Anything below is going to drop the max wattage put out of inverter.
I worked in the food manufacturing field for 11 years those sanitary clams if u loosen both sides and rotate the T up 90° you could put that pipe on a lot easier then u could rotate the T back down and tighten the clamps again u wouldn't have to struggle so much. This is just an observation.
1500 watt inverter is probably running multiple phases to save on components. Meaning each plug on the front of that recieves a certain wattage and the advertised value is the sum of the max wattage of each outlet. Also, ceramic heaters and AC motors don't like modified sine wave inverters. The inverter may be seeing spikes of high amperage for a few micro seconds when the voltage suddenly flips direction and the load hasn't engaged yet. It may also see surges in voltage when the voltage flips because the heating elements don't get a smooth crossover at zero volts. Those things are meant to run digital components like TVs, computers, led lights, and infrared heating stovetops that can be found in some RVs. It may run a low power microwave oven at the cost of the longevity of the magnetron but that's just what they do. You need to find a 3-6kw pure sine wave or improved sine wave inverter (like what's used in a medical uninterruptible power supplies) and make sure that the inverter is grid governed if you plan to interface it with the house wiring.
I worry about how many 90 degree angles that are present, wouldn't adding more reduce the flow significantly? you may keep the pressure but the flow would be hurt so while it may be ugly the efficiency is what really matters right? :P
I have a water wheel set up I’m trying to place My question is Does the charge controller limits the load drag on the pma Through my testing on my water wheel it will spin at the creek estimated speed and turn my pma that very similar to yours at 180 Dc volts But when I hook it striate to a battery, it really drags down to a 14 volts I was wondering will a charge controller only limit the load and not drag as hard
Nice, you could probably reduce the fan size a lot though, it might be using 10W or so, make sure all the slots on the bottom are open and close the top off so it is not just sucking air from the top. Your pressure loss is pretty reasonable, maybe not enough to increase the nozzle size though.
Your videos keep getting better. You turn off the flow very slowly for good reason. But you turn it on quickly and it seems I see the pressure get scary high when you do that (briefly). Maybe you should do both slowly? ( understand why you turn it off slowly but don't understand why turning it on quickly would be a problem).
You could use another charge controller or battery cutoff and set the cutoff voltage to like half a volt under max, and have that go to a dummy load like a lamp or heating element so that you can always pull full (electrical) power out of the turbine.
Hi joe! Absolutely addicted to your series at the moment! Are you planning to continue your wind turbine project to combine with your hydro? Find all your videos fascinating! Tom
I have a natural spring of about 20 gpm at 15 feet of head. And another with 100 feet of head but it gpm is anywhere between 0 and 30. What's your take on using a nozzle from each source?
Would it be better to have the new hose come straight down to turbine rather then come round the left of the turbine? More of a drop, less chance for air bubbles?
What's the head you've got there? I'm currently looking into a microhydro system for my house but the highest realistic head here is about 20m, but it's a river so there's LOTS of flow. What kind of turbine is best for that situation?
Rotate your SS Tee 90 degrees: second hose supply out becomes reservoir water in; then both nozzle supply hoses have equal supply pressure and volume. A SS Wye would be even better.
I cant wrap my head around why splitting the stream into 2 will provide more power? Im sure it does I just dont understand it. It still the same volume and overall pressure of water. Why is it more efficient?
The overall pressure stays the same as you said, while the outlet section increases with two nozzles; therefore, as the velocity on the outlet section only depends on the pressure, this means that more area multiplied by the same velocity gives you more flow rate. At the same time a higher flow rate in the penstock (upstream the splitting "T") will require a higher velocity, of course.
It will not necessarily provide more power by itself. The important part of the equation is the input. Ideally, you want the output flow rate to match the input flow rate. Output too high, and eventually you'll start sucking air and losing head. Output too low and reservoir overflows and you've lost potential energy. Sometimes he has more water than he can use with a single nozzle from the looks of it. But sometimes you don't. That's why these guys usually run multiple nozzles and often one or more adjustable nozzles that allow the system to be adjusted to match conditions.
It's more about using all of the available power without needing to switch nozzles every time the flow changes. I'll soon be trying electronic valves that can be turned on/off remotely and automatically two different size nozzles.
@@YeCannyDaeThat It's like drawing more current than a battery can provide and getting a voltage drop. Except it's sustained flow rate and pressure. Think of the nozzles like being a resistive load which are in parallel on the circuit. Now power is voltage times current, so if voltage drops you lose power. Same dealio with pressure and flow.
And for the box sprayer this video focuses on the second sprayer if that was at an 45° angle you'll have a little bit more room to work with with that with that moderately flexible hose
Great video again but it's still bothering me about the wires connectors sitting in a puddle they were still wet when you put them on the bit of wood also if it's at all possible you could build a dedicated area closer to the turbine for charge controller/batteries and inverter
@@JoeMalovich out of pure curiosity, and feel free to state if you have already thought and contemplated these solutions. If this water is not being used for consumption, why does it have to be a sanitary fitting? Also, have you looked into either using food grade PVC, fabricating one yourself, or having one custom manufactured for your purpose?
sounded at times like a bearing is not happy, not talking of the phazing sound . could that bet clattering from a washed out race.. 26:01 ish .is audible at other times .
My power inverter is a 400/800peak ----it specifically mentioned in the details that it would not operate anything with heating elements inside. So no toaster, heat guy, not even a hair dryer. Why? I have no idea. So maybe that's related to why you're having troubles using your heat gun.
I think it might have something to do with the fact that a heating element is basically just a thinner piece of wire shorting the positive and negative, and thus takes a large amount of amperage
Anything under 12V is completely flat, no wonder inverter is complaining. You should be up around14V at least during bulk charge. Probably time to ditch those old-tech batteries too, since you have put so much money into your setup!
just realized something....the size wire you are using coming of the turbine wires is smaller than the wires on the turbine wire size is important as you know....I think you are restricting the amperage flow to the rectifier 14 gauge wire is only good for 10-15 amps ...10 gauge is good for 25-30 amps...you will also get a voltage drop in smaller wire my suggestion on this is to get a power distribution block like this www.delcity.net/store/Dual-1-to-6-Screw-Connect/p_90897.h_91198 then you can run 6 gauge wire to the rectifier....you will have better results...then run 6 gauge from the rectifier to the classic.....and 6 gauge wire from the classic to the batteries I think you will be pleased with the overall outcome also, less connection in between means less resistance ....resistance kills amperage...bad connection kill amperage
Wait ... what am i looking at... now my educsted guess is ... your have a closed loop of water... pumping to a turbine generator... creating energy... to power the pump? Im confused.
I gotta admin i jumped in on some random video you made and you were already done most of the build and doing some other tests of some sort and I was like |"the fah is this dude doing??" if I can give you some suggestions it would be to bring your lines inside. out of the extreme conditions. your hardware ain't gonna give a shit if you run a 50 foot powerline from your fuel to your control panels etc. if the juice is there it's gonna flow. If you really want the "straight off the turbine read outs because you don't trust the read you're getting 50 feet away then build another small box with a wireless camera and led power to check the levels on your PC, but it's still gonna tell you the same shit as a panel on a line in at the door ya know what I mean... and work on that filtration, get rid of any dirt well before your turbine... that's my two cents now that I've spent a feew hours watching your videos
What annoys me about these set-ups is that they are all so low-down, why not a proper shed where the penstock comes in at waist-height and then you have a workbench as well as a space to store all your relevant tools, added to this it would be quieter and an easier, drier, environment to work in?
Mans quest for free electric, since all people of your state are forced to pay taxes would it not just be easier to get together and just take over the power plant itself i mean hell you guys are already paying for it !
I love the list you give. Knowing what your using and where to get it, makes it so much easier for me to get my projects off the ground.
20:19, one nozzle, the turbine is running at almost the right speed, the water in the transparent cover is not twisting. As he turned on the second nozzle, the turbine increased in speed. Overall performance will increase, but efficiency will fall sharply. The water jet must not run freely behind the wheel. The spoons must get the speed of the water to zero, then you take the most energy from the water.
From what i hear you have a air flowing with water, if you fix this fromplem water flow should increase. How to fix this? Check air intake it should be submerged fully and flow of water should not be foamy (with bubbles). I`m happy you are still working on hydro power projects GL ;)
18:00 U could use the water pump pliers laying at your right side. They are made for those things, tighten the grip when turning the tube in one direction and in the other it looses grip. 😉 When you don't want scratches on the tube or fitting, put some rubber under the pliers' teeth. I wish I lived on a hillside like you, I would almost copy your astonishing work, well done! But i'm living on flat lands in northern Germany, so there's no way to do so... 😒
never stop doing these videos
Fill the tubing with hot water before bringing them out in the cold Joe.
Nice build I’d suggest both hoses be same length so may have to lengthen one and shorten the other to keep pressure same on both Thanks for sharing
Ya I think you might need new or more batteries since it was dropping enough for that inverter to complain
Connect a generator to a stationary bicycle and have your wife ride it to supplement power when needed. LOL ! !
Great video, I love reading the comments for trouble shooting purposes.
I'm not convinced of your manifold setup though.
Cheers from Ottawa Canada
The days when we wish we had 3 or more hands...been there, I feel ya.
The piping is beautiful. Pretty piping jobs usually means less flow. The only thing I'd do is add a few pipe clamps to limit vibration and chafing.
flow is not limited to the pipe or the T....it is limited by the nozzle
the only way to increase the flow in this case is to increase the nozzle size
I love the care you take, not to create a water-hammer
That inverter was beeping because of voltage drop. It would run that heat gun fine at proper voltage. Sure wish I had property that I could install hydro like yours. Neat project.
some very safe looking wireing....
I appreciate the compliment.
24:20 when you say that you've got bubbles in your turbine and operating under pressure, the culprit would easily be that MASSIVE amount of air that you have just sitting in your tube... its constricting the flow for your primary nozzle ALOT... get rid of that air and you'd more than likely be back up to where you were wanting to be... air at the top of a hose for an application that is heavily dependent on pressure, really needs a way for you to vent all that air out, which I believe you do have, but not correctly set up... looks more like you're using it to vent water pressure so you can work on the pipes and such.. but you really need a valve 'upwards' that lets you vent the air... air kills applications like this...
Oscilation in pressure after filling instalation are proff for me that instalation is air locked to much.
Where do you buy your stainless fittings and what size, those quick release style are handy for repair
Losses in an electrical circuit are proportional to the current. So it's important to get the voltage as high as possible for transmission to minimise the current. If you can rectify the AC near the turbine and transmit DC using as thick wire as you can this will reduce losses as well. Also if you are generating 500W for 24hrs you are already producing 12KwHours of power. An average house on the grid uses 20 kWh so you are well in the way. I have a 350w system here in Tasmania that produces more than enough power as I use 3 to 5 kWh per day in my off-grid setup. Together with solar and a generator I run some heat loads such as a microwave, sandwich maker and tools etc as well as a washing machine and clothes dryer (only on generator).
I have a 48V battery system and I transmit power from my hydro turbine over 120metres at 150V DC to a Max PowerPoint tracker than converts high V low current to 48..57V to charge the battery. My inverter only barely knows anything about this as it measures V and A Also have about 1800W solar that also independently charges the battery via another MPPT over approx 80m of heavy duty cable at approx 80V.
hey dear this is nice but my question is how do you get a much pressure from the river do you use electric pump pressure or hydro ram pump ?
275 feet of gravity
Love the new meter. If you close the valve at the generator fast enough, can you damage the meter?
That's some hardwork right there
love the new metal piping and fittings, especially the clamp fittings. were are they from?
amzn.to/2RWfqaN
Vacuum hose fittings
i think if you flipped that t you used to mesure flow rate and fitted a bleed valve you could bleed out the pocket of air you get when the pipe fills or even the pressure guage one
I work in a machine shop...if you wanted some nozzles machined I could do that....just run the calculations for the size hole you need and we can work it out.
Thank you for the offer, my lathe is almost up and running so I can soon make my own.
Would it be worth getting a check valve with an adjustable cracking pressure? It might be a good way to prevent the system running dry, and auto start the system up when the streams flow increases back up again after a dry spell.
Now it just needs an in-line trap for any debris and a solenoid operated regulator valve to that references the generated voltage to throttle it.
Also there may be diminishing returns with additional nozzles because of the drop in manifold pressure with less resistance to flow within the system. The math for hydraulic systems is fairly parallel to that of electronic circuits when it comes to power, current, and resistance.
Realistically, what all could you run off that thing, like could you run a 1500w space heater, a refrigerator, 2 refrigerators? etc. Put it into perspective.
The groove in the flanges are for an o-ring versus a gasket. Looks like vacuum fittings so should be air/water tight.
Depening on the load 200mV drop on the cables can actually be real! Just go and measure!
Hay Joe if you need more power stack generators and run them off the same drive shaft...
23:35 could the pressure drop be due to the flow of water as the t piece to the gauge ?
Standard Battery voltage across the board as a reference to the industry is 12.45. Anything lower is considered a bad battery. In reference to that. Anything below is going to drop the max wattage put out of inverter.
I worked in the food manufacturing field for 11 years those sanitary clams if u loosen both sides and rotate the T up 90° you could put that pipe on a lot easier then u could rotate the T back down and tighten the clamps again u wouldn't have to struggle so much. This is just an observation.
1500 watt inverter is probably running multiple phases to save on components. Meaning each plug on the front of that recieves a certain wattage and the advertised value is the sum of the max wattage of each outlet. Also, ceramic heaters and AC motors don't like modified sine wave inverters. The inverter may be seeing spikes of high amperage for a few micro seconds when the voltage suddenly flips direction and the load hasn't engaged yet. It may also see surges in voltage when the voltage flips because the heating elements don't get a smooth crossover at zero volts. Those things are meant to run digital components like TVs, computers, led lights, and infrared heating stovetops that can be found in some RVs. It may run a low power microwave oven at the cost of the longevity of the magnetron but that's just what they do. You need to find a 3-6kw pure sine wave or improved sine wave inverter (like what's used in a medical uninterruptible power supplies) and make sure that the inverter is grid governed if you plan to interface it with the house wiring.
ASMR of grunting and metal touching metal 10/10
I worry about how many 90 degree angles that are present, wouldn't adding more reduce the flow significantly? you may keep the pressure but the flow would be hurt so while it may be ugly the efficiency is what really matters right? :P
I have a water wheel set up I’m trying to place
My question is
Does the charge controller limits the load drag on the pma
Through my testing on my water wheel it will spin at the creek estimated speed and turn my pma that very similar to yours at 180 Dc volts
But when I hook it striate to a battery, it really drags down to a 14 volts
I was wondering will a charge controller only limit the load and not drag as hard
Where does the water run-off go (thru the drains)??
I'd like to see a video with stacked generators the same shaft running off the one power
Nice, you could probably reduce the fan size a lot though, it might be using 10W or so, make sure all the slots on the bottom are open and close the top off so it is not just sucking air from the top.
Your pressure loss is pretty reasonable, maybe not enough to increase the nozzle size though.
Your videos keep getting better. You turn off the flow very slowly for good reason. But you turn it on quickly and it seems I see the pressure get scary high when you do that (briefly). Maybe you should do both slowly? ( understand why you turn it off slowly but don't understand why turning it on quickly would be a problem).
You should use camloc fittings at your house connections. Would be much easier to manage the connections.
8:40 the hardest thing i have ever seen anyone do. Man i felt that.
You could use another charge controller or battery cutoff and set the cutoff voltage to like half a volt under max, and have that go to a dummy load like a lamp or heating element so that you can always pull full (electrical) power out of the turbine.
It was mentioned by someone else that a dump load controller would be ideal. Something like a xantrex c40
Where is the water going? Is there hole at the bottom of turbine and where does it go?
into a culvert, then into a ditch beside the road. The another culvert into a pond.
Here's a suggestion if that t-connection was a y connection you'll get better flow
with a pump you can control the flow with a dimmer switch
Even if the batteries are in float if it says "MPPT" it means that the controller is putting out as many watts as it can.
Hi joe! Absolutely addicted to your series at the moment! Are you planning to continue your wind turbine project to combine with your hydro? Find all your videos fascinating!
Tom
I have a natural spring of about 20 gpm at 15 feet of head. And another with 100 feet of head but it gpm is anywhere between 0 and 30.
What's your take on using a nozzle from each source?
Would it be better to have the new hose come straight down to turbine rather then come round the left of the turbine? More of a drop, less chance for air bubbles?
possibly.
where is the water coming from? are you using electricity to pump the water to generate electricity?
Don't be a dill brain.....it's up the hill and down the long run of piping that you get the flow pressure.
What's the head you've got there? I'm currently looking into a microhydro system for my house but the highest realistic head here is about 20m, but it's a river so there's LOTS of flow. What kind of turbine is best for that situation?
This is 82m of head. You would probably be looking at a turgo turbine.
@@JoeMalovich yeah I thought they might be more suitable for low-head high-flow.
are you using this crystal clear water also for your house needs?
no, I would need to treat it.
Rotate your SS Tee 90 degrees: second hose supply out becomes reservoir water in; then both nozzle supply hoses have equal supply pressure and volume. A SS Wye would be even better.
I cant wrap my head around why splitting the stream into 2 will provide more power? Im sure it does I just dont understand it. It still the same volume and overall pressure of water. Why is it more efficient?
The overall pressure stays the same as you said, while the outlet section increases with two nozzles; therefore, as the velocity on the outlet section only depends on the pressure, this means that more area multiplied by the same velocity gives you more flow rate.
At the same time a higher flow rate in the penstock (upstream the splitting "T") will require a higher velocity, of course.
It will not necessarily provide more power by itself. The important part of the equation is the input. Ideally, you want the output flow rate to match the input flow rate. Output too high, and eventually you'll start sucking air and losing head. Output too low and reservoir overflows and you've lost potential energy. Sometimes he has more water than he can use with a single nozzle from the looks of it. But sometimes you don't. That's why these guys usually run multiple nozzles and often one or more adjustable nozzles that allow the system to be adjusted to match conditions.
It's more about using all of the available power without needing to switch nozzles every time the flow changes. I'll soon be trying electronic valves that can be turned on/off remotely and automatically two different size nozzles.
@@JoeMalovich So if 2 nozzles are better. Why not 3 or 10? Is it diminishing returns?
@@YeCannyDaeThat It's like drawing more current than a battery can provide and getting a voltage drop. Except it's sustained flow rate and pressure. Think of the nozzles like being a resistive load which are in parallel on the circuit. Now power is voltage times current, so if voltage drops you lose power. Same dealio with pressure and flow.
what is this machine and what is it used for? I don't understand anythying
It is used to generate electricity, which for now is used to provide some auxiliary heat to my garage workshop and to power my editing computer
And for the box sprayer this video focuses on the second sprayer if that was at an 45° angle you'll have a little bit more room to work with with that with that moderately flexible hose
Joe where did you get the generator from I have same pressure water or more then that I can make free energy too write me please
Look in the description.
@@JoeMalovich thank you
Great video again but it's still bothering me about the wires connectors sitting in a puddle they were still wet when you put them on the bit of wood also if it's at all possible you could build a dedicated area closer to the turbine for charge controller/batteries and inverter
That T will cause a large amount of turbulence into the second hose, I believe that a Y would probably work better for maximum efficiency
Ok, find me a 1.5" sanitary wye
@@JoeMalovich www.glaciertanks.com/tri-clamp-fittings-wyes-and-u-bends-b28bmp-g150.html
www.aliexpress.com/item/32850666344.html
@@Josstrigaming I need wyes that are straight with a branch off one side.
@@JoeMalovich out of pure curiosity, and feel free to state if you have already thought and contemplated these solutions. If this water is not being used for consumption, why does it have to be a sanitary fitting? Also, have you looked into either using food grade PVC, fabricating one yourself, or having one custom manufactured for your purpose?
Morning Joe
You said the same thing as I was trying to make a comment about the same thing it is cool
I think you get moore if you use even bigger size on pipes and for splitting water stream use Y than T
awesome job by the way
Could you provide a link to your snazzy new pressure gauge?
it was on ebay new old stock i presume.
Do you smoke? I still enough this ongoing experiment. Fascinating.
Never smoked, deep voice naturally.
@@JoeMalovich I was kidding
Très bon travail 👏😊
sounded at times like a bearing is not happy, not talking of the phazing sound . could that bet clattering from a washed out race.. 26:01 ish .is audible at other times .
Those nozzles might be stronger if you print them on their side
Need one on all four sides
My power inverter is a 400/800peak ----it specifically mentioned in the details that it would not operate anything with heating elements inside. So no toaster, heat guy, not even a hair dryer. Why? I have no idea. So maybe that's related to why you're having troubles using your heat gun.
I think it might have something to do with the fact that a heating element is basically just a thinner piece of wire shorting the positive and negative, and thus takes a large amount of amperage
Also you have a bad cell.. and yea i would bump up to bigger wires you can get 2 gauge from walmart pretty cheap. Not amp wire but battery wire.
This struggle with the pipes looks pretty real, good acting 😋
He's a pipefighter.😂
What type of pipe is that
To bad you can't double the pipe size feeding this. It should give you more power, but that is a long pipe to replace.
that may not be an accurate measure as the backpressure caused by the nozzle will cause a smaller flow rate which will skew efficiency calculations
Anything under 12V is completely flat, no wonder inverter is complaining. You should be up around14V at least during bulk charge. Probably time to ditch those old-tech batteries too, since you have put so much money into your setup!
Luv your MacGyver-ing
just realized something....the size wire you are using coming of the turbine wires is smaller than the wires on the turbine
wire size is important as you know....I think you are restricting the amperage flow to the rectifier
14 gauge wire is only good for 10-15 amps ...10 gauge is good for 25-30 amps...you will also get a voltage drop in smaller wire
my suggestion on this is to get a power distribution block like this
www.delcity.net/store/Dual-1-to-6-Screw-Connect/p_90897.h_91198
then you can run 6 gauge wire to the rectifier....you will have better results...then run 6 gauge from the rectifier to the classic.....and 6 gauge wire from the classic to the batteries
I think you will be pleased with the overall outcome
also, less connection in between means less resistance ....resistance kills amperage...bad connection kill amperage
I'm only running a few amps maximum. I have some thicker wire to bury in the summer.
@Bill delete it's 3ph ac for about 80 feet of 14ga cord, not a significant loss
You really need to put proper connectors onto these wires, automotive connectors would work great there
Inverter needs at least 12.8 volts to run properly. They enjoy 14 volts alot more. And alot more efficient.
Is that rust on the bottom inside of the turbine? Doesn't seem good for it long term.
Just the bolt/washer, I slathered the inside with antisieze.
your most welcome
Recycle system good stuff
Top pipe wrangler
Those are some pants you have on lad!
Jeans? I don't get this comment.
@@JoeMalovich nah, the tartan ones at the start.
@@Le_Petit_Lapin ahhh, pajamas! It was early.
Hi I'm from Philippines, plss help us to build that kind of technology. Thank you
Wait ... what am i looking at... now my educsted guess is ... your have a closed loop of water... pumping to a turbine generator... creating energy... to power the pump? Im confused.
It's gravity fed spring water, no pump needed.
your batteries are dead......11.9 volts is only 40% state of charge
That's what it comes off as yeah. Wonder what batteries he is using for this.
@@DivinityOfBLaze insufficient ones.
@@JoeMalovich you need more battery I have 8 D8 deep cycle cells on my piddley little 500w solor system
im missing like 10 videos from here to the pump pit 2
You can get water proof electrical boxes for about 5 dollars. Do your self a favor and seal it up you will end up with corrosion in those connections
15:22 when your dog farts
It was all the way at the end of the video when the sound wave pressure thing made the gauge go back and forth
I gotta admin i jumped in on some random video you made and you were already done most of the build and doing some other tests of some sort and I was like |"the fah is this dude doing??" if I can give you some suggestions it would be to bring your lines inside. out of the extreme conditions. your hardware ain't gonna give a shit if you run a 50 foot powerline from your fuel to your control panels etc. if the juice is there it's gonna flow. If you really want the "straight off the turbine read outs because you don't trust the read you're getting 50 feet away then build another small box with a wireless camera and led power to check the levels on your PC, but it's still gonna tell you the same shit as a panel on a line in at the door ya know what I mean... and work on that filtration, get rid of any dirt well before your turbine... that's my two cents now that I've spent a feew hours watching your videos
th-cam.com/video/V82SVeVXKcA/w-d-xo.html look at this guy, running a 10o feet of wire before even hitting the box to do the math.
What annoys me about these set-ups is that they are all so low-down, why not a proper shed where the penstock comes in at waist-height and then you have a workbench as well as a space to store all your relevant tools, added to this it would be quieter and an easier, drier, environment to work in?
@@damiansnuff1605 freezing
@@JoeMalovich Insulated shed warmed by a tea light?
Do you have a raspberry pi on your printer?
It's a bone stock ender 3 pro
It doesn't matter if the hoses look clean or not just as long as it works.
Mans quest for free electric, since all people of your state are forced to pay taxes would it not just be easier to get together and just take over the power plant itself i mean hell you guys are already paying for it !
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