So much better than other instructions that have you totally disassembling the pedal. Those little balls are a pain to put back in. So THANK YOU for making future service so much easier!
Calvin puts blue grease in it. Then when tighten the pedal into the body, just some black dirty stuff comes out. I vote for full overhaul and proper cleaning. When clean grease comes out, thats the moment when I feel its allright
I like that I don't have to completely disassemble the loose bearings! Calvin's method looks more than adequate for flushing and lubing them, equals more riding time!
He is a wizard! Seriously all it takes is practice. My method is to do the cone finger tight then the locknut and finally when tightening hold the locknut still and back off the cone to it. Seems to work fine for me but again I've been working on bikes for nearly 50 years now.
Awesome video. I did my XT M8000 SPD pedals yesterday for the first time. Pedals were two years old and really easy and feel smoother. Thanks for the video...
RARELY do I ever really learn anything new in these types of videos. This one is awesome! I've been wrenching on-and-off for about 25 years, and this is very informative. I'll probably buy the TL-PD40 rebuild tool to keep in my tool-kit after seeing this. Thanks for sharing some useful knowledge! I haven't done my S-Tec training in about five years, but I still like to keep up.
it was old type of pedals where all bearing can be pulled out, in normal pedals it is just needed to put some grease every year behind cover cap and all dirt will come out on opposite side
you did mention a few speciality tools during the video.. it would be nice to have a quick screenshot at the end with all the speciality tools needed.. I have a box full of pedals that need reworking and I am going to buy all the necessary tools immediately.. thanks
There is only one specialty tool required, and that is the Shimano TL-PD40. It is available on Amazon for under $6. My LBS doesn't carry these. Mine has lasted 5 - 6 years. You can use a channel lock pliers instead of the wrench. I use a headset wrench on mine, or clamp the tool in your vise.
No need for the special tool. Just use vise grip gently and it comes out easily. Re-tighten accordingly, there is not much force. Thanks for posting these videos, saved me from buying new pedals.
Parktool videos are great, except for that if they sell a specific tool for a task, they are going to advertise it and hide the ways to do it with standard tools.
i have a tip for you. instead of using the wrench, just use your fingers. finger tighten the cone nuts and lock nuts. put your wrenches on, hold the 7mm steady and step back the cone nut. it will give the right amount of play and lock the system at the same time. the balls are small and easy to mark. use the fingers to tighten them.
Wish I'd seen this video a few years ago... I must have been able to save a few sets of pedals! Oh Well! I've noted that almost all the pedals I've had issues with [typically] used BALL bearings. The issues encountered are disintegrated BALLS and/or RACES. I'm guessing this is the case where you toss the pedals and buy new. Would you consider doing a general session on Pedal Designs?? BALL vs NEEDLE bearings?? What to look for and what to avoid?? SPD vs [old] LOOK vs [so-called] Lolli-pops and 'Eggbeaters'??
Scatman John didn't die after all. He just faked his death to become a bicycle mechanic. Seriously now, the thing with Shimano pedals vs Crank Bros was that they pretty much didn't need to be serviced. If Shimano starts going that way, well, CB pedals are way easier/faster to service.
this is actually way more detailed and thorough than shimano pedals need. If you take them apart once a year. Like just screwing the bearing unit out. Filling the pedalbody with grease and putting it back in. The old grease is flushed out and your pedals will most certainly never wear out
I'm such a loyal Park tool customer. Always go to your site for all your tutorials. Followed this one for my new Shimano PD-EH 500 pedals. I noticed from your video you were working on a right pedal. I started on my right pedal. You loosened the lock nut counter clockwise. I proceeded to loosen counter clockwise. Guess what? I stripped my brand new axle thread. So much for trust in Park tool. My right pedal axle assembly - lock nut and cone are reverse thread. What's up with that?
We are sure sorry to hear there was a problem with your overhaul. That was a right hand pedal in the video and it has a right hand thread direction. You do make a point with the limitations of videos. There are now newer models with a left threaded locknut. See si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-CAPD001-00-ENG.pdf TH-cams are locked in time, but products can change. When working and turning a wrench, the feedback loop is very important. By nature of threads, if a part is turned in a loosening direction, you can feel a lightening of the load very quickly. If the wrench is turned in a tightening direction, the effort ramps up quickly in just a couple degrees of turning. The feeling in that initial turning is critical. If you feel something should be loosening, and is unlikely to be rusty, that relief in pressure should be quickly felt.
My "shell" got stucked with the lock nut after I opened it. Is there any way to remove it from the pedal body? Or do I need to trash it and get new pedals?
Thanks for another great video for DIY, but I have two questions. 1: My left pedal seems like it causes problems where my right one works great. I do clip in/out of the left side 99.9 percent of the time when stopping. What happens is I start getting a clicking sound when the left pedal is horizontal, if I twist my foot a bit it stops. When this happens if I check for movement in the pedal shaft there is a lot of play. In the past i've just replaced the pedals as I've attempted to repack the bearings before this video and during disassembly the "O"-ring seal got destroyed and I couldn't find one the same size. 2: Is the a "rule-of-thrumb" for servicing these pedals/bearings? I live in the PNW so I do some riding in the rain. Now time to look for a video on bottom brackets as I'm noticing some play in it also. Since this is my touring bike I don't need a breakdown on the road.
This can depend on the pedal brand and the history. I would start by removing the pedals and greasing the threads then re install and tighten. Also check your cleats for tightness and wear. The wear does not typically cause clicking but it could. A lot of play can allow the bearings to come out of place and cause clicking. At that point a new set of pedals or a complete axle setup would be the best options for you.
I think most people are just gonna buy new pedals. I have well used pedals still working fine after 15 years hard use so considering the relatively low cost I would just replace.
The nuts came loose inside the pedal after the adjustment. Perhaps didn’t tight them enough to lock. The pedal fell apart but the shell stayed inside the pedal’s body. Is there an easy way to remove the hub shell stuck inside the pedal? Any special pullers out there?
Are you kidding? Buy 'em, run 'em 'til they die, for what they cost. I have a couple pairs of 535's that are over 20 years old and haven't been able to kill them yet. Bought all the tools the service them, have yet to open up a pair of SPDs.
excellent video! I was overhauling some A520 pedals and learned that the drive side pedal uses left hand threads for the cone and locknut! Unfortunately, I only figured it out after stripping the threads out of the locknut. My M520 pedal uses the standard right hand threads. Any idea why Shimano would use left hand threads for the cone & locknut on just one (or a few) models?
Love the videos! While doing this the lock bolt broke in half, is there any way to remove it from the pedal body? Or do I need to trash it and get new pedals? It's a PD-M520.
Calvin, that grease gun you use, is that the GG-1, without the reservoir? Does that meant that a tube of Polylube 1000 will screw right into the underside of the GG-1?
Hi team, how would I torque the bearing back into the pedal body? I don’t have a highly tuned arm but I do have a tw-6.2. How would I connect that for a 17mm wrench (for my ultegra 6800 pedals)? Thanks!
Hey! Really nice video. I have followed this video but when I put the axle back in the pedal it gets really weird. Outside the pedal the bearing is really smooth and have no play. But when i put it back in the pedal the bearing feels to tight or as if the bearng is in really bad shape. How can I fix this?
My new R550's 7mm locknut keeps getting loose after every ride. I'm quite a heavy rider. Is it okay to use loctite 242 treadlocker on the 7mm lock nut?
Thread locker is fine to use there. It really should not be coming loose if jammed well up against the other nut. This is interesting. Keep us posted on results.
Is a small amount of play in the axle acceptable? My pedal is not as bad as the one in the video at 0:58, and upon disassembly, there is no play in the bearing assembly, and everything otherwise runs smoothly. Is this just normal wear?
I've adjusted by right SPD pedal about a hundred times now and I just can't get it. If I adjust smooth w/o play it tightens down after one ride and is indexed and needs to be re-adjusted. Too loose and obviously there is a ton of play. Is this a defect? Should I just leave it with a massive amount of play?
The concept and service procedures of the SPD-SL pedals is much the same as in the video. Many use the Shimano tool TL-PD40. In some cases it is cone wrenches, but again the process is the same.
That is our GG-1 Grease Gun. It comes equipped with a canister, but can also be used with our tubes of grease. www.parktool.com/product/grease-gun-gg-1
My new Ultegra pedals have a thin nut that holds the body to the spindle. The nut keeps backing out, which is really scary! It says torque to 10Nm, which I've done repeatedly. Anyone else have this problem, and know why this is happening? Wish I could talk to Shimano directly, but they make it impossible.
Noticed I have been riding with some play in one of my pedals. Is it bad for the longevity? Isn't it more bad to run with them over tightened, which is bad for the bearings?
Thanks. I did service my right pedal today. The one with play. I ran into a strange problem: The play comes from too much space in the nylon(?) black lock bolt (that are at the bottom of the axle). Not the 7mm and 10mm bolt wrongly set. It's like 1mm too much space after tightening the with the PD40-tool. I might try adding a own spacer to fix the play/gap. My pedals: "Shimano PD-5700 105 SPD-SL Road Pedal"
That play goes away once the axle is threaded in the pedal body. Just load the bottom of the pedal body with grease and all will be good. I like mine to have a slightly "hydraulic" feel. That way the pedal will rotate up to meet my foot when I take off from a stop.
It is unlikely in the extreme you can find that small pedal bearing shell as a part. That is why it is best to grease these as preventative maintenance to avoid damage. Possibly getting a set from a trash can, we know of no other way.
Love this video along with the humour. Have never had an air compressor. But now at 75, I think I deserve one.
Greatest bike maintenance intro ever.
With the disembodied leg popping up from the bottom of the frame, this may be the greatest of all Calvin Jones videos.
So much better than other instructions that have you totally disassembling the pedal. Those little balls are a pain to put back in. So THANK YOU for making future service so much easier!
Just put some grease first so balls would stick to it.
I've always thought it needed to come apart completely. Thanks for saving me a lot of time on my next service!!!!
It does if you need to replace the bearings.
Calvin puts blue grease in it. Then when tighten the pedal into the body, just some black dirty stuff comes out. I vote for full overhaul and proper cleaning. When clean grease comes out, thats the moment when I feel its allright
I always dismantle every single bit of the internals so that it's the cleanest it can be.
Calvin is king. Best explanation of pedal maintenance ever. Just finished doing mine... Top man
I like that I don't have to completely disassemble the loose bearings! Calvin's method looks more than adequate for flushing and lubing them, equals more riding time!
The Park tool video production is as good as their tools. Well done
Excellent video. Just want to add that my 9020 pedals had a lefthand threaded cone and lockring on the right pedal.
If you can take the play out of the bearings without over-tightening them in two tries, you are a wizard. Most finicky pre-load I've ever encountered.
Elaborate, plz.
He is a wizard!
Seriously all it takes is practice.
My method is to do the cone finger tight then the locknut and finally when tightening hold the locknut still and back off the cone to it.
Seems to work fine for me but again I've been working on bikes for nearly 50 years now.
@@nigelnightmare4160 That's how I have always done it too!
Its easy with practice
Nicholas...no, you must really suck. Easiest pedal ever. If you know what you are doing.
Sir thank you so mutch! the creaking of the pedals was unberable! now smooth as butter now!
So frustrating that for every easy maintenance there is a special tool needed …
Awesome video. I did my XT M8000 SPD pedals yesterday for the first time. Pedals were two years old and really easy and feel smoother. Thanks for the video...
Found the clamp from Park PSC 9 holds spindle even more convenient than vise; nice video!
A full disassemble, clean & greaseup is sometimes needed.
Great video, simple and easy explanation to service your SPD pedals👍
RARELY do I ever really learn anything new in these types of videos. This one is awesome! I've been wrenching on-and-off for about 25 years, and this is very informative.
I'll probably buy the TL-PD40 rebuild tool to keep in my tool-kit after seeing this. Thanks for sharing some useful knowledge! I haven't done my S-Tec training in about five years, but I still like to keep up.
That's a cleaver way of greasing the bearings.
Thank you for the informative video.
i love how the shoe suddenly appeared 😂❤️
it was old type of pedals where all bearing can be pulled out, in normal pedals it is just needed to put some grease every year behind cover cap and all dirt will come out on opposite side
Great video, new to maintenance and this is just so simple and thorough. Great job Calvin & Co :)
Is there a video about servicing the clipping mechanism of sdp?
Wish I could grow a moustache as famous as Calvin's one. Instead, I can only try and get better as a mecanic watching and learning with his videos.
Calvin, was that a real human leg... at the start? 😁 funny
We keep the leg attached to our video photographer and borrow it only as necessary.
@@parktool LMAO.
Top job guys, clear and easy to understand. You are an asset to the cycling community worldwide, have a beer on me Lol.
Intro for the win
Calvin, I am a big fan of Park tool. Great video. Going to purchase the tools now. Thank you for the links to help me find them.
I love to learn a lot to know how can use the park tool
You explain very well
Your tha best calvin. I love park tools
Helpful video! Thanks a lot!
you did mention a few speciality tools during the video.. it would be nice to have a quick screenshot at the end with all the speciality tools needed.. I have a box full of pedals that need reworking and I am going to buy all the necessary tools immediately.. thanks
There is only one specialty tool required, and that is the Shimano TL-PD40. It is available on Amazon for under $6. My LBS doesn't carry these. Mine has lasted 5 - 6 years. You can use a channel lock pliers instead of the wrench. I use a headset wrench on mine, or clamp the tool in your vise.
No need for the special tool. Just use vise grip gently and it comes out easily. Re-tighten accordingly, there is not much force. Thanks for posting these videos, saved me from buying new pedals.
Parktool videos are great, except for that if they sell a specific tool for a task, they are going to advertise it and hide the ways to do it with standard tools.
The shoe! So good! :D Epic!
Best. Intro. Everrrr 😅
You-Da-Man, Calvin.
I still have those shoes. Best ever!
i have a tip for you. instead of using the wrench, just use your fingers. finger tighten the cone nuts and lock nuts. put your wrenches on, hold the 7mm steady and step back the cone nut. it will give the right amount of play and lock the system at the same time. the balls are small and easy to mark. use the fingers to tighten them.
Wish I'd seen this video a few years ago... I must have been able to save a few sets of pedals! Oh Well!
I've noted that almost all the pedals I've had issues with [typically] used BALL bearings. The issues encountered are disintegrated BALLS and/or RACES. I'm guessing this is the case where you toss the pedals and buy new.
Would you consider doing a general session on Pedal Designs?? BALL vs NEEDLE bearings?? What to look for and what to avoid?? SPD vs [old] LOOK vs [so-called] Lolli-pops and 'Eggbeaters'??
Very useful video as always calvin
GG-1 grease gun looks exactly like a Dualco 700231. Now I need to see if my tube of Park grease will fit the Dualco gun!
Estimados amigos los sigo desde Argentina y me gustaria mucho que hagan vídeos en idioma español. Muchas gracias
Park Tool socks....good one
Perfect instruction 👍🏼
What about the clip in system doesn't that need looking at too?
Excelente tutorial me suscribo 👍me gustaría que hiciera tutoriales en español o al menos subtitulados.
I like this video. will you please do a video like this for the race face Chester pedals
Very helpful. Big thanks !
Scatman John didn't die after all. He just faked his death to become a bicycle mechanic.
Seriously now, the thing with Shimano pedals vs Crank Bros was that they pretty much didn't need to be serviced. If Shimano starts going that way, well, CB pedals are way easier/faster to service.
this is actually way more detailed and thorough than shimano pedals need. If you take them apart once a year. Like just screwing the bearing unit out. Filling the pedalbody with grease and putting it back in. The old grease is flushed out and your pedals will most certainly never wear out
done this before? only a drip of grease after tightening. nice
Thank you
Why he didn't disassemble the lose ball bearing and cone system to clean and grease them?
What's the best freeze?
I used Phil Woods and they move more freely than before. Too free makes it a bit more difficult to clip in.
Amazing video, thanks!
What type of grease are you using to inject in the pedal?
in the video, you are using the right pedal. What about the left pedal, is the direction of the axle threads the same or different?
Different
I'm such a loyal Park tool customer. Always go to your site for all your tutorials. Followed this one for my new Shimano PD-EH 500 pedals. I noticed from your video you were working on a right pedal. I started on my right pedal. You loosened the lock nut counter clockwise. I proceeded to loosen counter clockwise. Guess what? I stripped my brand new axle thread. So much for trust in Park tool. My right pedal axle assembly - lock nut and cone are reverse thread. What's up with that?
We are sure sorry to hear there was a problem with your overhaul. That was a right hand pedal in the video and it has a right hand thread direction. You do make a point with the limitations of videos. There are now newer models with a left threaded locknut. See si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-CAPD001-00-ENG.pdf
TH-cams are locked in time, but products can change.
When working and turning a wrench, the feedback loop is very important. By nature of threads, if a part is turned in a loosening direction, you can feel a lightening of the load very quickly. If the wrench is turned in a tightening direction, the effort ramps up quickly in just a couple degrees of turning. The feeling in that initial turning is critical. If you feel something should be loosening, and is unlikely to be rusty, that relief in pressure should be quickly felt.
Two thumbs up!!! Great video!!!
My "shell" got stucked with the lock nut after I opened it. Is there any way to remove it from the pedal body? Or do I need to trash it and get new pedals?
the best!
Thanks for another great video for DIY, but I have two questions.
1: My left pedal seems like it causes problems where my right one works great. I do clip in/out of the left side 99.9 percent of the time when stopping. What happens is I start getting a clicking sound when the left pedal is horizontal, if I twist my foot a bit it stops. When this happens if I check for movement in the pedal shaft there is a lot of play. In the past i've just replaced the pedals as I've attempted to repack the bearings before this video and during disassembly the "O"-ring seal got destroyed and I couldn't find one the same size.
2: Is the a "rule-of-thrumb" for servicing these pedals/bearings? I live in the PNW so I do some riding in the rain.
Now time to look for a video on bottom brackets as I'm noticing some play in it also. Since this is my touring bike I don't need a breakdown on the road.
This can depend on the pedal brand and the history. I would start by removing the pedals and greasing the threads then re install and tighten. Also check your cleats for tightness and wear. The wear does not typically cause clicking but it could. A lot of play can allow the bearings to come out of place and cause clicking. At that point a new set of pedals or a complete axle setup would be the best options for you.
excellent video.
I think most people are just gonna buy new pedals. I have well used pedals still working fine after 15 years hard use so considering the relatively low cost I would just replace.
i love these videos
The nuts came loose inside the pedal after the adjustment. Perhaps didn’t tight them enough to lock. The pedal fell apart but the shell stayed inside the pedal’s body. Is there an easy way to remove the hub shell stuck inside the pedal? Any special pullers out there?
Shimano Saint SPD MTB pedals PD-M821
Can i use teflon grease.
Are you kidding? Buy 'em, run 'em 'til they die, for what they cost. I have a couple pairs of 535's that are over 20 years old and haven't been able to kill them yet. Bought all the tools the service them, have yet to open up a pair of SPDs.
How old are those SPD pedals in the first example?!?
excellent video! I was overhauling some A520 pedals and learned that the drive side pedal uses left hand threads for the cone and locknut! Unfortunately, I only figured it out after stripping the threads out of the locknut. My M520 pedal uses the standard right hand threads. Any idea why Shimano would use left hand threads for the cone & locknut on just one (or a few) models?
The answer is thats the way to dont get losen the bearings accidentally when pedaling forward.
is this tutorial also working for the saint pedals (PD-M820 )?
thx alot and kind regards
is this the same for the saint m820 Clipless dh pedals ?
Love the videos! While doing this the lock bolt broke in half, is there any way to remove it from the pedal body? Or do I need to trash it and get new pedals? It's a PD-M520.
There is not a way to effectively remove it, nor are parts very available. Seems like time for new pedals.
Is that service is same on a shimano road pedals?
Calvin, that grease gun you use, is that the GG-1, without the reservoir? Does that meant that a tube of Polylube 1000 will screw right into the underside of the GG-1?
yes the GG-1 is made to use either way. With the reservoir or using any of our lubes etc. that come in a tube.
Hi team, how would I torque the bearing back into the pedal body? I don’t have a highly tuned arm but I do have a tw-6.2. How would I connect that for a 17mm wrench (for my ultegra 6800 pedals)? Thanks!
For that you will need a 17mm crow foot. We do not offer one at this time but they are out there in the world. Thanks!
cual es la medida de las bolitas?
Hey! Really nice video. I have followed this video but when I put the axle back in the pedal it gets really weird. Outside the pedal the bearing is really smooth and have no play. But when i put it back in the pedal the bearing feels to tight or as if the bearng is in really bad shape. How can I fix this?
It shouldn't spin like a wheel.
The thin 10mm wrench, which brand and code is it? Thank you!
www.parktool.com/en-us/product/offset-brake-wrench-obw-4
How to but all rebuild
parts ? Can Direct from you ?
Спасибо.
PD-M424
What is the name of the wrench he used to turn the PD-40 tool?
Can't find.
Thanks
Use the HCW-4, a 36mm closed end. Made for bottom brackets but Shimano made the tool to this sizing to fit these tools.
My new R550's 7mm locknut keeps getting loose after every ride. I'm quite a heavy rider. Is it okay to use loctite 242 treadlocker on the 7mm lock nut?
Thread locker is fine to use there. It really should not be coming loose if jammed well up against the other nut. This is interesting. Keep us posted on results.
Is a small amount of play in the axle acceptable? My pedal is not as bad as the one in the video at 0:58, and upon disassembly, there is no play in the bearing assembly, and everything otherwise runs smoothly. Is this just normal wear?
A small amount of play is not a big deal but can lead to more play developing down the road.
I've adjusted by right SPD pedal about a hundred times now and I just can't get it. If I adjust smooth w/o play it tightens down after one ride and is indexed and needs to be re-adjusted. Too loose and obviously there is a ton of play. Is this a defect? Should I just leave it with a massive amount of play?
Clean the contact surfaces of cone and lock nut and apply enough torque so they don't come loose.
Im from ph. Where i can buy the special tool for removing the housing of pedal?
Does all Shimano RB cleats pedal has the same spindle axle?
No, but they all use cup & cone bearings.
will there be a video on SPD-SL pedals? And would the repair procedure for SPD-SL be the same from dura ace all the way down to R540?
The concept and service procedures of the SPD-SL pedals is much the same as in the video. Many use the Shimano tool TL-PD40. In some cases it is cone wrenches, but again the process is the same.
Yup, should be the same. The axles are identical.
What is the model # for that grease pump that you used! I use the same grease tube, but I hate rolling it & squeezing it.
That is our GG-1 Grease Gun. It comes equipped with a canister, but can also be used with our tubes of grease. www.parktool.com/product/grease-gun-gg-1
My new Ultegra pedals have a thin nut that holds the body to the spindle. The nut keeps backing out, which is really scary! It says torque to 10Nm, which I've done repeatedly. Anyone else have this problem, and know why this is happening? Wish I could talk to Shimano directly, but they make it impossible.
Noticed I have been riding with some play in one of my pedals. Is it bad for the longevity? Isn't it more bad to run with them over tightened, which is bad for the bearings?
Its a goldilocks type adjustment. Not too tight and not too loose. The looser or tighter it gets from that point wears the bearings about the same.
Thanks.
I did service my right pedal today. The one with play. I ran into a strange problem: The play comes from too much space in the nylon(?) black lock bolt (that are at the bottom of the axle). Not the 7mm and 10mm bolt wrongly set. It's like 1mm too much space after tightening the with the PD40-tool. I might try adding a own spacer to fix the play/gap. My pedals: "Shimano PD-5700 105 SPD-SL Road Pedal"
That play goes away once the axle is threaded in the pedal body. Just load the bottom of the pedal body with grease and all will be good. I like mine to have a slightly "hydraulic" feel. That way the pedal will rotate up to meet my foot when I take off from a stop.
How to avoid rubber seal tear
Кэлвин забыл упомянуть важную деталь, что на правой педали у стопорной гайки и конуса, левая резьба
I've just bought myself B'Twin MTB AUTO 520 spd pedals and I can't find a way to disassemble this...help would be appreciated
The Shimano TL-pd40 is required to remove the spindle assembly from those pedals.
Will my Campy socks fit my Shimano Shoes?
Yes, they will fit. They might burn up though.
is there any tool that can sub with that pd40 tool?
There is not.
👏
What is the name of the tool of Shimano the little gray one?
Shimano TL-PD40.
what about the actual clip in part of these pedals....isnt that more of an issue??
The clip in section of these pedals are nearly bombproof and require minimal maintenance. The bearings are really where these need attention.
Where can I find the hub shell? Mine broke and I can't find other for replace
I do no if the name of this peace is Hub shell. The peace show in 2:52.
It is unlikely in the extreme you can find that small pedal bearing shell as a part. That is why it is best to grease these as preventative maintenance to avoid damage. Possibly getting a set from a trash can, we know of no other way.
@@parktool I appreciate the response and attention