Thanks, Have you had any dropouts break with using those -piece torque arms? I've broken three dropouts, two in an aluminum suspension similar to what you showed here and one downhill magnesium fork using a 1000w direct (non-geared) motor using two of what looks like the same torque arms. I've noticed that the inexpensive stamped arms typically have about 0.012" of play on the hubmotor shaft and a lot of play in the torque-arm to shaft arm bolt hole, and when combined with the flex of even a heavy duty hose clamp, even if the torque arm slots are positioned tight to counter the motor shaft torque it still allows enough twist to over-stress the dropouts. I've tapped the tru-hole and used a larger machine screw on the third attempt but that apparently was not enough. Luckily all three of my failures were starting from a stop using about 400watts (8amps at 48V). the high-end magnesium fork lasted about 100mi and broke under light starting load, and all three fractures appear to involve some element of fatigue. I modeled cast alloy dropouts and motor shafts in Solidworks, and found that the cast aluminum and magnesium dropouts were at 60% of static structural damage with only 30n/m of torque, but about 20% with solid 6061 aluminum. From those basic numbers I have to question the safety margin on any front fork motor install even with torque arms and wanted to convey my concerns for whatever they are worth and see if you might have any better insights?
Very well done and easy to understand. Too bad the friend who said "oh I know how to put these on" didn't watch this because I've had nothing but trouble until I decided to see why. Too many washers and there's no way to make the tork arm tightly fit. Three wheeled trike 48 volt motor 1,000 amps...
Thank you so much for posting this video. I found it very helpful. I had no idea what "lawyer lips" were, but now i know. It sure is a pain to grind these lips down. Wish I had seen this video before. I could have used a "C" washer instead.
Glad I saw this video , I actually have a 1000w front hub motor with a 48v battery . I recently put the kit on a bike just to test the motor and go for a quick run around , literally as soon as I hit the throttle, it popped out and snapped both sides of the aluminum aloy fork. I since got another fork but am nervous to use a suspension fork after seeing how easy the motor broke the aloy like a toothpic . I got a torque arm and the right Washers, do you suggest I save the time and go directly for a steel fork ? I would really like to have peace of mind if possible with the torque arm aswell. Your videos have helped alot , hopefully your still online , your videos are straight forward and helpful . Please let me know if you can. Take care .
Great Video Do you have more info on those torque arms at the end of this video I have a 5000 watt motor and the torque I have can't handle the power. Or where I can get those from thanks
great video,i wish we had someone like urself where i stay, bike shops not helpful at all. would like to know if there is any place that deals with ancheer 6 spoke alloy hub motor , or is there anyone who fixes them.i dont seem to be getting anywhere. HELP
Wow the guy in this video is really nervous. He is flailing the fork all over the place instead of holding it in place and getting it close to the camera. LOL
Thanks, Have you had any dropouts break with using those -piece torque arms? I've broken three dropouts, two in an aluminum suspension similar to what you showed here and one downhill magnesium fork using a 1000w direct (non-geared) motor using two of what looks like the same torque arms. I've noticed that the inexpensive stamped arms typically have about 0.012" of play on the hubmotor shaft and a lot of play in the torque-arm to shaft arm bolt hole, and when combined with the flex of even a heavy duty hose clamp, even if the torque arm slots are positioned tight to counter the motor shaft torque it still allows enough twist to over-stress the dropouts. I've tapped the tru-hole and used a larger machine screw on the third attempt but that apparently was not enough.
Luckily all three of my failures were starting from a stop using about 400watts (8amps at 48V). the high-end magnesium fork lasted about 100mi and broke under light starting load, and all three fractures appear to involve some element of fatigue.
I modeled cast alloy dropouts and motor shafts in Solidworks, and found that the cast aluminum and magnesium dropouts were at 60% of static structural damage with only 30n/m of torque, but about 20% with solid 6061 aluminum. From those basic numbers I have to question the safety margin on any front fork motor install even with torque arms and wanted to convey my concerns for whatever they are worth and see if you might have any better insights?
Very well done and easy to understand. Too bad the friend who said "oh I know how to put these on" didn't watch this because I've had nothing but trouble until I decided to see why. Too many washers and there's no way to make the tork arm tightly fit. Three wheeled trike 48 volt motor 1,000 amps...
thanks for explaining the use of the C-washer
Thank you so much for posting this video. I found it very helpful. I had no idea what "lawyer lips" were, but now i know. It sure is a pain to grind these lips down. Wish I had seen this video before. I could have used a "C" washer instead.
Glad I saw this video , I actually have a 1000w front hub motor with a 48v battery . I recently put the kit on a bike just to test the motor and go for a quick run around , literally as soon as I hit the throttle, it popped out and snapped both sides of the aluminum aloy fork. I since got another fork but am nervous to use a suspension fork after seeing how easy the motor broke the aloy like a toothpic . I got a torque arm and the right Washers, do you suggest I save the time and go directly for a steel fork ? I would really like to have peace of mind if possible with the torque arm aswell. Your videos have helped alot , hopefully your still online , your videos are straight forward and helpful .
Please let me know if you can. Take care .
Thank you very much, that's some of the best info I've found online.
What was that you spoke of using epoxy to stick to the frame ?
Thank you for the video it was really informative
Great Video Do you have more info on those torque arms at the end of this video I have a 5000 watt motor and the torque I have can't handle the power. Or where I can get those from thanks
What about a 500 W`s on a older 1960`s cruiser medium weight frame bike? would you need a torque arm?
Always informative.
Thank you 😊
great video,i wish we had someone like urself where i stay, bike shops not helpful at all. would like to know if there is any place that deals with ancheer 6 spoke alloy hub motor , or is there anyone who fixes them.i dont seem to be getting anywhere. HELP
Very informative, thanks
Thanks for the video. I like it.
1 vote for Good content / useful info.
Wow the guy in this video is really nervous. He is flailing the fork all over the place instead of holding it in place and getting it close to the camera. LOL
Thanks.
thanks
always :)