Y'all should check out what Ryan Williams is doing with "float-n-fly" setups. That dude is absolutely slaying bass with a pretty clever setup......jaydacators and jigheads. It won't work in every situation, but def worth having 'in your bag' if you ever find yourself fishing lake structure from a boat.
The indicator specific lines cast and mend well. The problem I have with them is in medium to fast water, broken water. The current really pulls on that "fat" line and can even suck it down. I find fishing a standard weight forward line works better in this case.
Lance, when you were talking about indicator lines you mentioned "textured" and non-textured lines but didn't explain the difference. Can you tell us how they are different and the advantages and disadvantages of each? Thanks for your Skill Builders - they are always very informative. Steve
Does it matter if I were to use fluoro vs nylon with an indicator? I would think it has to be mono otherwise the line above the indicator would sink and drag, but I’m not sure.
Tippet wise, you could use either material. I favor fluorocarbon for its abrasion and density. For the leader, I’d suggest nylon. Just for clarification, both nylon and fluorocarbon are “mono” or monofilament.
@@Lanceeganflyfishing I accidentally reversed the words mono and nylon. I only recently learned what you said about fluoro/nylon/mono. Thanks for the advice.
Great video! Just what I needed. Is it possible to do a video on swinging wet flies and what leaders to use? Thanks.
Thanks for the video. More streamer stuff would be nice for future videos. Line and leader combinations, retrieves, bank technique vs boat, etc
Love the Winston super 10’s in 3 and 4 wt. they are also great casting dry fly rods.
Thanks for this vid. Im an indicator fisher 90% of the time. Looking to get a designated rod to do so.
Y'all should check out what Ryan Williams is doing with "float-n-fly" setups. That dude is absolutely slaying bass with a pretty clever setup......jaydacators and jigheads. It won't work in every situation, but def worth having 'in your bag' if you ever find yourself fishing lake structure from a boat.
I would love a skill builder for Trout Spey.
The indicator specific lines cast and mend well. The problem I have with them is in medium to fast water, broken water. The current really pulls on that "fat" line and can even suck it down. I find fishing a standard weight forward line works better in this case.
Interesting problem. The “fat” part of the line has the most floatation (micro balloons) and largest footprint, so it should float very well. 🤷♂️
Lance, when you were talking about indicator lines you mentioned "textured" and non-textured lines but didn't explain the difference. Can you tell us how they are different and the advantages and disadvantages of each? Thanks for your Skill Builders - they are always very informative. Steve
Textured lines reduce friction in the guides and have tiny dimples that trap air and allow the line to float higher.
Very good video. How long is your butt section normally?
It varies a bit depending on depth, but generally in the 3-5’ range.
What midge tip line do you use on your 4wt?
I use 5 weight lines on 10’ 4 weights since not many midge tips are available in 4 weight.
Does it matter if I were to use fluoro vs nylon with an indicator? I would think it has to be mono otherwise the line above the indicator would sink and drag, but I’m not sure.
Tippet wise, you could use either material. I favor fluorocarbon for its abrasion and density. For the leader, I’d suggest nylon. Just for clarification, both nylon and fluorocarbon are “mono” or monofilament.
@@Lanceeganflyfishing I accidentally reversed the words mono and nylon. I only recently learned what you said about fluoro/nylon/mono. Thanks for the advice.
❤❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉