Ben, I have that same lift and I really like it. It allows you to get around the bike on both sides without tripping over a jack or handle. IF you have any problem with it 'rocking' at all just shim the bottom stationary 'axel' as the spacer on mine was a little short and caused the base to bow when fully tightened without the shims. I also agree on locktite on everything.
I live in the desert, rarely see any rain, and ride mostly in sand. Little need for corrosion resistance and any lube is just a sand magnet. I've decided to experiment with no chain lubing on my current bikes. WD40 to help remove water after a rare washing is all I am using at the moment.
@@slalomkingI have that stuff and it seems to be a magnet for sand. If I’m in it even a little, my chain will be coated with sand. I’ve been thinking about the same thing and experimenting with no lube.
I measure when I need to clean my chain by gas tanks filled. After 2 and a half tanks is around 800 miles. I ride 90% pavement though and the chain never seems too dirty to worry about doing it sooner. I've only had to adjust my chain twice and have 7k miles on my gen 3.
If my chain is wet, I use WD40 to displace the water after using compressed air to blow it out. I will use diesel fuel and a plastic brush to clean, then a.light coat of gear oil. My chain looks new, no kinks and runs quietly.
I've found that more often is easier than letting the chain and sprockets get disgusting. I use a two step - first buy WD40 by the gallon and drown the chain rubbing with the bush and rag then second I use the Honda white lithium grease spray and it's white so you can see any missed links. I'm aiming for my original chain to last a long time.
@@SwankyCatProductions I've been using WD40 for decades. It will not harm the rubber O or X seals on the chain. It is a mild solvent that loosens the crud so the brush and rags can do the job of removing the grime. The secret being to chain clean often and the chain and sprocket will last a long time. I clean my chain and sprockets about every third ride. Unless it is dirty from the any ride. I got it down to taking just a few minutes and don't mind doing the procedure. I'm probably in the minority of bike owners that keep the chain and sprockets clean. Other owners would rather replace the chain and sprocket way more often @ over $100 a pop. WD40 is $25 per gallon and last a long time. Much cheaper.
I got 15,000 k on my klr original chain an sprockets….used chain wax religiously after every ride, but dropped a tooth on front when I replaced chain an sprockets
If I ever get up by you, I'll give you my chain cleaning stuff as I have shaft drive now. I also have a couple other things you might be interested in.
i ride a enduro bike pretty much everyday for all my trips and transportation needs and the bike gets messy really quickly and cleaning is a nightmare, how do you clean your bike when it's really grimey? and i mean in all the nooks and cranny's carburetor engine parts etc
When I leave my chain as clean as possible but never ever oily or wet... it lasts 10x longer. I know everyone wants to spray chain lube like crazy, and dry it off but a good o-ring chain and just leave it dry it will last longer 100%. I have gone through several chains in the past 10 years and when I finally went back to my roots of not paying for expensive 'chain wax" chain lube and just leave it dry, it lasts so much longer. the problem with these products is that dirt and dust sticks to the chain and acts like little sand paper and wares out your chain and sprockets.
The main thing chain lube does is adding sand to the chain, making a grinding paste and get's your bike greasy. As soon as you hit dirt, it's worse then having a dry chain. Only reason to lube your chain is if you always keep your bike outside in rain. If you don't lube it you just clean it like the rest of the bike.
I take your point but after I wash my bike or run it through water the chain has visible rust on it and you can hear it clicking and popping when rolling the bike around.
100% if you don’t give the chain a clean first. Most chains today have o-rings so you are not lubing the pivots anyway and the chain sprocket interface will be metal on metal again after 10 metres! My routine: Clean chain with soapy water/brush Dry it off Add chain lube to stop it corroding
the fortnine video on chain lube (recommended in this vid) has chain wax collecting the most grit/dirt (and making the most mess when driven). Its a good lube, and great rust prevention, but lube is almost not needed. Oil is recommended by manufacturers often.
You only did 50% of the job! Important to get some lube on the chain's O'rings so they stay supple and continue to flex and seal the factory lube in under the rollers. I also use kerosene (a lubricant and cleaner, and is actually what is in many chain spray cleaners) or a spray cleaner to clean the sprockets so that gunk does not act like a sanding grinding compound on the chain and sprocket.
Ben, I have that same lift and I really like it. It allows you to get around the bike on both sides without tripping over a jack or handle. IF you have any problem with it 'rocking' at all just shim the bottom stationary 'axel' as the spacer on mine was a little short and caused the base to bow when fully tightened without the shims. I also agree on locktite on everything.
I live in the desert, rarely see any rain, and ride mostly in sand. Little need for corrosion resistance and any lube is just a sand magnet. I've decided to experiment with no chain lubing on my current bikes. WD40 to help remove water after a rare washing is all I am using at the moment.
Keep us posted. Its like in the army for maintaining weapons….do not over lube.
Try the Maxima chain wax
@@slalomkingI have that stuff and it seems to be a magnet for sand. If I’m in it even a little, my chain will be coated with sand. I’ve been thinking about the same thing and experimenting with no lube.
I measure when I need to clean my chain by gas tanks filled. After 2 and a half tanks is around 800 miles. I ride 90% pavement though and the chain never seems too dirty to worry about doing it sooner. I've only had to adjust my chain twice and have 7k miles on my gen 3.
Aussie group tested various & found
Cleaning more important than lube as o ring internally lubed
Do you happen to have a link to that? I'd love to see tests!
I think it was on
TH-cam
Cross Training Enduro
Great info. 👍
Thanks!
Thank You
Sure thing!
If my chain is wet, I use WD40 to displace the water after using compressed air to blow it out. I will use diesel fuel and a plastic brush to clean, then a.light coat of gear oil. My chain looks new, no kinks and runs quietly.
Diesel destroys the permanent lube inside the chains.
I've found that more often is easier than letting the chain and sprockets get disgusting. I use a two step - first buy WD40 by the gallon and drown the chain rubbing with the bush and rag then second I use the Honda white lithium grease spray and it's white so you can see any missed links. I'm aiming for my original chain to last a long time.
I've heard so much conflicting info about WD-40 and chains that I'm afraid to use it lol. I'm sure I'm just being paranoid though.
@@SwankyCatProductions I've been using WD40 for decades. It will not harm the rubber O or X seals on the chain. It is a mild solvent that loosens the crud so the brush and rags can do the job of removing the grime. The secret being to chain clean often and the chain and sprocket will last a long time. I clean my chain and sprockets about every third ride. Unless it is dirty from the any ride. I got it down to taking just a few minutes and don't mind doing the procedure. I'm probably in the minority of bike owners that keep the chain and sprockets clean. Other owners would rather replace the chain and sprocket way more often @ over $100 a pop. WD40 is $25 per gallon and last a long time. Much cheaper.
I got 15,000 k on my klr original chain an sprockets….used chain wax religiously after every ride, but dropped a tooth on front when I replaced chain an sprockets
Thanks for the vid, always great to hear others precesses
If I ever get up by you, I'll give you my chain cleaning stuff as I have shaft drive now. I also have a couple other things you might be interested in.
i ride a enduro bike pretty much everyday for all my trips and transportation needs and the bike gets messy really quickly and cleaning is a nightmare, how do you clean your bike when it's really grimey? and i mean in all the nooks and cranny's carburetor engine parts etc
There are lots of Vids online that kinda indicate chain lube, cleaners whatever are pointless. That's where I'm at
clean with WD-40. Lube with chainsaw bar oil. Done.
Where did you get the crash bars from?Having trouble over here in Australia trying to find a decent set.
Also taking the chain guard off only takes a sec and makes it way easier to get to.
What other parts do you wash to keep the salt from rusting your klr for the winter seasons?
I usually only ride off road in the winter. Once in a while when the roads are really dry I'll go out but not very often.
When I leave my chain as clean as possible but never ever oily or wet... it lasts 10x longer. I know everyone wants to spray chain lube like crazy, and dry it off but a good o-ring chain and just leave it dry it will last longer 100%. I have gone through several chains in the past 10 years and when I finally went back to my roots of not paying for expensive 'chain wax" chain lube and just leave it dry, it lasts so much longer. the problem with these products is that dirt and dust sticks to the chain and acts like little sand paper and wares out your chain and sprockets.
How often do you wash your bike?
I plan on using a floor jack.
Why can't you do just use a standard floor jack? Bc of Fulcrum points maybe?
Yeah, just be careful about stability. Many jacks allow the bike to teeter
@G19Jeeper
I ended up buying a bike lift at harbor frieght. Worth every penny. Thanks Man.
The main thing chain lube does is adding sand to the chain, making a grinding paste and get's your bike greasy. As soon as you hit dirt, it's worse then having a dry chain. Only reason to lube your chain is if you always keep your bike outside in rain. If you don't lube it you just clean it like the rest of the bike.
I take your point but after I wash my bike or run it through water the chain has visible rust on it and you can hear it clicking and popping when rolling the bike around.
100% if you don’t give the chain a clean first. Most chains today have o-rings so you are not lubing the pivots anyway and the chain sprocket interface will be metal on metal again after 10 metres!
My routine:
Clean chain with soapy water/brush
Dry it off
Add chain lube to stop it corroding
You say you have a master link? Did you replace the chain alrerady? and if so, What brand and type? O-ring, X-ring?
I don't yet, no. Just in case you do you'll need to be careful of the clip. I'll always go DID xring
Great run through man. I use almost the exact same process and my chain has been rock solid. Have you tried using chain wax before?
the fortnine video on chain lube (recommended in this vid) has chain wax collecting the most grit/dirt (and making the most mess when driven). Its a good lube, and great rust prevention, but lube is almost not needed. Oil is recommended by manufacturers often.
Kerosene cleaning ???
Never tried it, seems messy and smelly.
You only did 50% of the job!
Important to get some lube on the chain's O'rings so they stay supple and continue to flex and seal the factory lube in under the rollers.
I also use kerosene (a lubricant and cleaner, and is actually what is in many chain spray cleaners) or a spray cleaner to clean the sprockets so that gunk does not act like a sanding grinding compound on the chain and sprocket.
Aka jet fuel lol. Does it work ok?