M1 Carbine Headspacing***
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ธ.ค. 2024
- **M1 Carbine headspacing using GO and NO-GO gauges. Discussed is cleaning, headspacing, excessive headspacing, in and out of battery, and firing with improper headspace. Always have headspace checked by a qualified gunsmith. This video shows how the process is generally done and not implying ready to fire. You can use gauges to determine if a rifle is close headspacing if purchasing. Also always use a Field gauge too.**
Respectfully, I think you drew the wrong conclusion from the no go gauge using the second bolt. The fact that the second bolt does not close is an indication that the headspace is not excessive with that bolt. In other words, you should be good to go with the second bolt, while the first bolt may have had excessive headspace. On the first bolt (the one that closed on the no go gauge), you might have tried again with a field gauge. If that test showed that the bolt would not close with the field gauge, then the gun would have been safe to shoot with the first bolt even though it had failed the "no go" test.
Yes, this was previously cleared up right after posting the video. Thank you.
yep, can you just do that part of this video again, then this video will be a correct no go video? Thank's for your videos, I too have learned a lot from you about these wonderful rifles.
norwich93CMP You need to take this video down, or, edit it to be correct. This video at 5 min is absolutely wrong. Don’t get someone hurt. Take it down or fix. You don’t understand headspace....
@@wickwilkinson4208 exactly what I was thinking as I was watching it. The bolt SHOULD NOT CLOSE on the NOGO gage, making that portion of the vid a NOGO. :(
@5:24 your bolt shouldn't lock into battery on a no go gauge correct? Is a little bit confusing as I think that you are trying to explain a short chamber scenario where the bolt won't lock on a go gauge but you are demonstrating it with a no-go gauge. Just to be clear yours is headspace correctly, closing on a go gauge but not closing on a no-go. Thanks for your videos I have learned a lot from you about these wonderful rifles.
Also , the second part. The bolt should close into full battery on. Go gauge. Not close on a No Go gauge. When it wouldn’t close on the NoGo, there seemed to be a problem? I’m confused. Your videos are very helpful! If you could give Some clarification about this one discrepancy.
I believe I corrected it in the text below the video, check there. It should close on the GO, and not close on the NO-GO and FIELD.
Second part...........u used the go gage & it went into battery.....correct? YES! Then u used the no go gage & it did not go into battery.,......correct? Why did u say u had a problem? The no go should not go....correct? & your not head spacing anything , ure checking for head space.....correct? YES correct!
Correct. Nothing in this video is headspacing. It’s checking for headspace. Pretty huge difference.
Weren’t all carbines made to exact USGI specifications so they were interchangeable?
I experienced head spacing issues but always found the same problem ie. ; over greased, oiled or extractor had been changed and incorrectly installed plus the gas piston nut not seated correctly. Did some manufacturers make m1’s specifically for their parts only?
Yes, parts were interchangeable. And yes, some subcontractors only made parts and not weapons. Inland made about 5 parts where Winchester made about 19, which was the most produced by a prime contractor. Many of the small parts were subcontracted such as safeties, mag catches, springs, plungers, barrel bands, front sights, rear sights, etc.
Do you repair repro carbines?
I was in the Marines 67-70, with the M-14, never heard of a Head Space problem... Excessive Head Space must result from a severely worn parts, we always used Lubriplate on the M-14 moving parts...
In the military they do not change bolts around or rebarrel rifles at lower levels. Excessive headspace only has to do with worn out barrels, not worn parts.
This guy is talking out his ass. I was in the Marines and Army and went to Aberdeen Proving Grounds. I was in 4th Echelon shops in both and we changed out M-14 bolts. We also coded out receivers with worn/cracked locking areas.
So with the No Go, you want the bolt to go down a bit, but not all the way?
Out of battery is some degree. If it's way out of battery the GO gauge probably will not get a closure.
@@norwich93CMP Thanks man. My wife has an M1 Carbine coming in soon so I think we'll be back to check out your other videos too.
I'm kind of confused . It should close on Go guage, but should not close on a No- Go guage ! You are saying it should close on Both ?
Hopefully this can be clarified as it seems like he’s explaining what would happen in you did not do the no go gauge since the go gauge did close in the example .
@@Ambassador-ju6pc +
Beat me to the question.
OK. If we get a closed bolt on a GO, and we get a closed bolt on the NO GO, but on the FIELD we get NO CLOSE, we are OK to use the bolt?
With my set of gages, it should not close on a Field Gage. Use your instructions that came with your bolt and have a qualified gunsmith do the work. Always ensure the bolt, receiver, and chamber are COMPLETELY clean for accurate readings. Also very important is that you are not forcing any movements of the bolt on the gages.
@@norwich93CMP Thanks for the info.
Very helpful!! Thank You! which brand of gauges are those, i like them because they don't have rims. Also, do I HAVE to the whole rifle apart to do this test?
Glad it helped. I can remember the commercial brand of gauges I used. Going online to a couple of the bigger named company and you would just have to look. No you do not have to strip the rifle down, but I recommend it because you have to have an absolutely clean rifle to properly check the head space. All the rails in the receiver for the bolt to ride on, the bolt, receiver, and the chamber need to be free of anything that is not the original metal, ie. power, carbon, old oil or grease. I hope that helps you a little more and thank yo for asking.
norwich93CMP Yes it helps very much I think they are Forster gauges although I believe CMP uses Clymer but can’t find a full set of Clymers so Forster it is. Did you ever think of doing a video regarding what to look for when determining the condition of a barrel...
Good idea about the barrel, thank you.
Welcome! Quick question, I don't have to take the bolt apart to perform this headspacing procedure do I?
No but it must be clean.
Any one know if the round should fly out when ejecting the round by using the op rod with out firing? mine brings the round out but does not throw it.
Sounds like your ejector needs to be cleaned and inspected. You will need a bolt tool for that. They run between $45-$60 for a commercial one and more for USGI.
I looked at this twice and it makes no sense. It should not close on a NO GO.
Correct, it was noted in an earlier reply. Thanks.
Take it to a gunsmith, that is the only thing to take away from this video.
Long time.... Since u did a video on the Carbine. Great video on explaining the headspacing. I have to ask u this, Is your barrel all the way in with the receiver. the threads on the barrel that screws onto the receiver, cause mine doesn't and i try to screw it all the way in but it ends with leaving a few threads showing. If you lock the bolt back. The upper of the barrel and receiver will touch and preventing from going all the way. Each time I shoot it, it'll leave the casing bulge up at the end of the casing. I remember when I first got it, it wasn't doing this but had a lot of issues where the firing pin didn't set off the primer or a very light strike. On the right side "front" of receiver has a small threaded hole, which I went to my local home depot and found a exact screw to bolt it on and that is to lock tight the barrel from moving or playing. Anyhow it shoots without any issues at this point.
You would have to e-mail me a photo of what your talking about. USGI receivers and barrels were made in 2 variations. One with a long skirt and the other with a short. The short one will show threads of the receiver at the bottom. The long skirt with cover it up. I have had to file both skirts before to get the receiver to screw in farther. But that is extremely rare.
norwich93CMP great I'll just need the e-mail so that I can give you a few photos.
BTW, a round bolt and flat bolt issue. Does it matter which one is used for M1 and M2.
Either for M1. M2 should have a round.
@@norwich93CMP Should......hmmm.....can you use flat with m2, any tboughts
@@gmajors2237 Yes, but you run a significant risk of cracking the right locking lug or shearing it off the bolt completely. M2 cyclic rates will eat a flat bolt alive even if it is a moderately used gun in full auto mode. Round bolts are the ONLY option. Don't even waste your time with the flats on an M2.
Where do you get go, no go gauges?
Sorry can't remember.
Brownells carries them
The way I understand the proper use of head gauges is this: if the go gage does not close then head space is too short. If the no go gage closes then too long. If the go gage closes and the no go gage does not close then the head space is just right. If the field gage ever closes then the firearm is unsafe to shoot for sure.
Sounds about right.