ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มี.ค. 2016
- In this video I will install a Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend on my Flashforge Dreamer 3D printer. At the end of the video there is a test print with polymaker PC-plus Polycarbonate filament using the new hotend.
For more information on the hotend and installation process, please visit my website through the link below:
uptimefab.com/2016/03/25/insta...
Enjoy!
Robin
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Very helpful. I just managed to get it installed. REALLY loved it. No fuss. No stupid music. Just informative and "valuable"
Best instructional video I have seen in a long time. Clear, concise and easy to follow. Perfect! Thank you.
Thank you so much. I had bought the hot ends and was hoping there was a video for installing on my flashforge
@UptimeFab you tightened the nozzles assuming that your print bed was level, which it would never ever be as it is being manually adjusted at the screws on the bottom! The only thing you can count on being in level is that cooling bar you had your heaters mounted on.
The correct way:
You should first tighten both ends of the hotend into the heater and then measure the 1mm gap from the top of the cooling bar like showed on the video. This tightening is final - but don't overdo it! Do not readjust later! There's no other way you could rest assured those nozzles being at level, as your bed is the least accurate measure to take. Finally, level the bed to match the nozzle height.
Very, very nice work!
Really helpful video, thankyou.
Hi, thanks for the feedback! The method you describe sounds like a decent procedure and will likely work in most situations. The reason I used the bed is because I found my extruder carriage to not be parallel to the guide bars. From one side to the other around 0.1mm difference. Might be that mounting of bearings was not correct at factory, warping of carriage or something else. This would also mean that in my case the aluminum bar would also not be perpendicular to the z axis. Therefore I decided not to change anything on the bed leveling and use that as a reference for a before and after check. For a universal procedure yours is recommendable however, so again thanks for posting.
I havent tried, but I believe even if something is off afterwards one could use a fixed point on the bed, even if the bed is tilted, and measure the height of each nozzle on that specific point and adjust if necessary.
Robin
Thank you so much. great and handy!
thank for the video, it help me a lot
Excellent instructions and clearly communicated. Would be nice to see the real world strength difference between ABS & PC filament on a printed part.
Hi Nobby,
Thanks!
It would indeed be nice to perform some strength tests with different materials. I hope to have some time for this in the near future, but there are many other projects on my planning as well. I am not sure if I will print any ABS parts, since I pretty much abandoned ABS due to the nasty smell.
Robin
Great video! Thanks. One question, wouldn't tightening the nozzles as a last step ruin the calibration of their height?
Outstanding job! I may have to upgrade the nozzles in the FF Dreamer now. Is the carbon filament better for durability? PLA is so brittle and ABS is so hard to keep from warping. But ABS is more durable than PLA. It just smells terrible when you print with it.
If you use instant coolant spray, you can easily separate the printouts.
Great video... I just wanted to point out that I tried backdating the firmware as you had posted in an update on your web page, and found that my printer actually was allowing me to go to 280c on the extruders, and 130c on the bed. Now with Flashprint, I can't get any higher than 255c/260c (depending on what version of Flashprint you are using) because the software just won't allow you to enter any higher values, BUT!!!! If I use simplify 3D, I can enter whatever I please, so I tried entering a 290c extruder value, and a 140c bed temp for one of my prints, and this caused the printer to max out its top allowed values of 280c on the extruder and 130c on the build plate! (Of course I didn't allow it to heat to those temps because I haven't installed my all metal hot end yet.) But it looks as if it will work fine. Just thought that everyone would like to know about this. I backdated the firmware to "dreamer_2.4.20160603".
Hi Grant, Thanks for sharing your experience with the firmware downgrade! I have never printed with anything higher than 260C but it is great to see that there is still some room left for tricky filaments. Simplify3D indeed does not have the temperature limitations built in. People that still want to use Flashprint can generate the G-code file and then change the temperature in a text editor, the extruder temperatures are in the first couple of lines.
Robin
Hi, thanks... Just wanted to throw an update in here. (got my all metal hot end installed, thanks to your video) I ran into a few issues that people should be aware of. 1st) Running the build plate at 130c for extended periods of time caused the machine the throw a fault. Something about the temperature being out of range. So the printer automatically shuts off the build plate heat, and you can not get it to heat up again until you turn the printer off and then back on. I've currently been running at 120c with no problems. 2nd) The option to disable the rear fans under settings is gone with this firmware. However, the fans will still kick on automatically when the internal temperature reaches 46c. 3rd) The light will not come on until you perform an action, ex: jog/print/preheat etc... Kind of miss having the light come on as soon as the printer boots up, but hey, no big loss there. 4th) Ive been running into bugs in the system once reaching 275c. The machine will hit 275c, then jump to 426c, then go back down to 274c, then the machine will turn off the heating block. The extruder will then cool down to 263c before kicking back on and climbing back up to 275c and repeating the process all over again in an endless loop until your prints done. On one occasion, the printer actually told me that the extruder had reached pass its max temp and shut the heating block off on me and told me to reboot the printer. These are obviously safety features built into the Dreamer, annoying as they may be, I'm glad to see that they are there! I'm going to dig into the printer a little deeper to check and see if not being able to get to 280c is a software issue, or maybe hardware. The thermal coupler may be to blame here. But I'll have to do some test to rule stuff out. Other than those 4 issues, the printer works good! It prints pc abs well at 273c. And I haven't had any major issues as long as I keep the temps under 274c/extruder and 125c/bed. Also, it should be noted that my x-axis carriage has not melted or misshaped in any way. (I have the newest model Dreamer)
Hello, this is because of the limitations inside the GPX exe/plugin, reach the page: github.com/uoitalia/GPX to download a gpx executable or source, if you want to compile it yourself, to remove those limits.
So can anyone tell me why this works ? If you had to have a teflon tube before to keep the filiment from melting before it reaches the hot end why is it OK to just run it with out now ? Seem like this is a simpler way to go , why didn't the printer come this way from the start ? Love my Dreamer . So can you still get a filiment jam in the cooling tube with this new all metal set up ? Great video. Thanks for shairing.
Hi,
Thanks for your reply,
The stainless steel heat break works as follows: Stainless steel has relatively low thermal conductivity. However, since it still conducts heat faster than teflon, another trick is used; there is a narrow section in the heat brake which also helps to reduce heat transfer from the nozzle to the cold section above. These two aspects combined provide a sharp enough transition point in the heat brake to prevent the filament from melting prematurely.
In the meantime I have been printing lots of PLA and some PC with this hotend. It really works! (no jams so far)
I was also a bit mystified why this is not fitted as standard on most printers. I think that this is because the all metal hotend is a relatively new development and suppliers are not adapting this quickly enough. Also, the stainless steel parts cost more to produce, although I cannot imagine this being a significant part in the overall cost price of a printer.
Maybe more printers will come with an all metal hotend as standard in the near future, time will tell...
Robin
Hi Uptime fab, great video, thankyou. I have found that the firmware I am running on the Flashforge dreamer limits my temp to 250 deg c, even though I can set it higher in Simplify 3D, any ways around this? its printing ok at 250 but I figure it would be better with higher.
Hi Paul,
This is a firmware issue. Previously I was able to set the nozzle temperature to 260C, but after upgrading my printer to firmware "dreamer_2.5.20161222" I could also not set the temperture higher than 248 degr. C. There seems to be no workaround for this firmware version, since the printer will set the temperature to 248C even if the G-code tells it to use a higher temperature.
Good news is that it can be fixed. My Flashprint software (still have the older 3.12.0 installed) also gave me the option to install firmware "dreamer_2.4.20160603". After installing this version the issue was resolved and I could use higher temperatures again. I am leaving my printer on the older firmware for now, since I do not see any benefits in using the newer firmware.
Please note: if you install different firmware it is completely at your own risk. I have bricked my dreamer once when trying to upgrade firmware. I cannot guarantee if the 60603 firmware is compatible with your printer.
Good luck!
Robin
fantastic guide mate! Do you know if the process is the same for the inventor 1 ? Cheers
Thanks! I am not sure. The inventor 1 looks just like a blue Dreamer and the hotends look the same from the pictures I see online, but it is difficult to tell without having access to one. Also note there might be a temperature limit in the firmware for the hotends.
I have a similar printer, the Wanhao Duplicator 4S and I also got the same all metal hot ends as you did. But I ended up reverting the left one for the standard hot end because it was better with flex filaments. The flexible filaments would jam way more easily. So now I use only the right extruder for more abrasive filaments or higher temperature ones, and the left for support or flexible. Offtopic: are you dutch?
Hi, That looks like a good solution. Since it is difficult to find an extruder/nozzle that prints all filaments perfectly, using 2 different nozzles makes perfect sense. I guess it all depends on what type of parts you are printing.
Yes, I am Dutch. No matter how frequently I speak English it is hard to get rid of the accent :)
UptimeFab I am Portuguese, living in Belgium and working in Amsterdam. So I'm just used to listening to Dutch accents. Your accent is fine, mine is much worse. :)
I replaced one hot end to the micro swiss all metal on my Flashforege Creator Pro. I am now having issues printing ABS. What are your settings to print ABS with the all metal hot ends? Thanks for the very informative video.
Leba, I stopped printing with ABS quite a while back so I do not have much experience with this material in combination with the micro Swiss hotends. So I would not be of much help here other than suggesting different temperatures, but you have probably already done so. The reason for not printing ABS was not the hotends but the smell by the way.
Hope you get it working, Robin
What's max temperature you can set on the dreamer? Buy any available methods like new firmware or compiling one. Much appreciated. Thank you.
It has been a while since using the dreamer, but I have only used it up to 260C. It might allow you to go higher, but I am not sure if it can actually maintain a higher temperature during printing. So the only thing I can say with certainty is that up to 260C works.
I've read that PLA gets jammed easily in all-metal hotends. Have you had any problems printing PLA after this mod?
I have read about similar issues with PLA in combination with the micro swiss hotends, but have never had any issues myself. However, please note that I am mostly printing with modified PLA. Regular PLA might respond differently in an all metal hotend, I am not sure. My main reason for going with modified PLA wasn't printability though, but material properties, like increased toughness. (and unfortunately also increased price per kg).
i have a question, if i install this do i still need the plastic tubing?
Hi Asyraf, thanks for watching. There is no Teflon tubing used anywhere in the micro Swiss hotend. Robin
Those throats break off at the under cut ,,make your own and upgrade..